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Restoration 101: Removing Paint and Rust
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- www.proshaper.com
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Removing Paint and Rust
In the 1st installment of our Restoration 101 series we have a Jaguar 150 OTS door, which for it's age looks great! We have to start by removing the paint to see the story of the door. We used 2 different types of paint stripper seeing which one worked best. Once we found one to be better we used it to remove the paint on the entire door. After the paint is removed I like to use a brillo pad and lacquer thinner to remove any remaining paint. Now that the door has been cleaned we see a few spots with bondo on it. This is never a good sign. I gently remove the bondo using a heat gun and putty knife. Unfortunately in 2 spots we notice the bondo was used to fill rot holes. Now that everything is removed it is time to immerse the door in a tub of Rust 911 solution for roughly two days. I can't wait to see how it comes out!
Email: Wray@Proshaper.com
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Last summer I started some sheet metal work on my 73' Toyota Land Cruiser, and what I've learned the most from your videos is that I have no idea what I'm doing. This channel is an invaluable resource.
Thanks Wray going step by step and showing what works and what doesn't in a great idea. The pump idea is something I wouldn't have thought of this is were experience comes in. Thank you to Mark for doing the behind the scenes bits and doing a great job filming the videos. Thanks again and take care
Excellent project! Thank you
Good info on the pump and tubing for hard to reach areas. Thanks Wray.
Im so impressed with klean strip metal and concrete prep for rust removal that i want to put the logo on all cars i used it on. Thanks for the tips!
Very helpful thanks Wray
Big thanks for your videos and extra big thanks for the good videoing and editing!
Love these videos
I am very new to restoration and leaning a lot from your videos. I have used electrolysis to remove some nasty rusted stuff and worked supper great and very cheap.
Thank you!
Like many , Im really looking forwards to this set of videos.
Thanks Wray.
The idea of the submersible pumps is brilliant. I've been wanting to do my 1929 dodge body (rear cab), haven't found a large enough tank and wasn't looking forward to having to buy enough solution to fill it either
Great tips..
it could be a great exercise for me. I would love to do the skin door.
Thank you for the vidéo !
I use stripper. I lightly score the paint surface in a cross hatch pattern with a box cutter first, it helps the stripper chemical penetrate the surface and it works much better.
Once stripper is applied, I cover the surface in static sheeting. It keeps the chemical from drying out, and keeps the fumes close to the paint.
I know many of us could not afford 5 gallons of rust remover. Wish we could. Perhaps only because we aren’t charging $2500 dollars to restore a single door. Great video.
Another product that's great for removing paint is accidental spills of brake fluid.
Zip Strip and Nitrostan are both still available from some hardware stores, or Amazon, if you can't find it anywhere else.
Candy the stripper 😂😂
Hi Wray . Well this IS a coincidence ! Guess what l've been doing on my '"e"type for the past 2 days ! My garage is very small and l've worn gloves ,overalls and cartridge mask . I still went inside with the smell of the stripper on my breath ! Oh, and fans ! The stripper isn't what it was . And your comment about your Grandfather's shop tell's me everything and why you are the artisan today . And l definitely don't have a tank large enough for my 'e' type to be dipped in !Thanks Wray. Give my love to Candy ! 😈😈
I had a neighbor who hired me to strip furniture when I was a kid, probably killed a lot of brain cells. Her husband was a car guy,1914 Fiat, 1911 harvester truck and a Stutz, great people
Aircraft paint strip used to be the very best, but due to regulations, they had to remove the methylene chloride. Now while safer, it is worthless.
I'm doing a 29 Ford, I like both topics. I like and need to see how to beat a panel into submission, I also like to see how to make patches from raw sheet metal.
Thanks! Check out my other videos, lots of videos that will help your restoration ua-cam.com/users/proshaper
One good trick when it's too hot or the paint remover is slow so it won't dry is to cover it with plastic with as little air trapped under as possible.
In Europe I don't think we still have a paint stripper that works on anything else than wood. I like to take the paint off on all the flat surfaces with a non woven (scotch brite) flap wheels then bead blast the rest, the body shell is sent to the blaster to do all the inner structure, wheel wells, floors and told to stay away from all the outer bobypanels outside and inside.
Only once I had a complete car acid dipped to strip the paint and rust off it worked really well and was relatively cheap but it was a small car and a 10h drive away. Couldn't find anybody closer nor with a tank big enough for bigger cars.
Man 1963! I bet you’ve seen some cool stuff in technology advancement for body work
I believe Jaguar use a synthetic enamel to keep cost down. I’ll scuff the area 40 grit to allow the stripper to get a better bite.
Stripper jokes. Nice! :D
Dichloromethane is the stuff that made paint strippers so effective in the past. It is forbidden here in Europe since 2012. Unfortunately there is no real replacement for that stuff.
👍👏👏
I like to use "aircraft paint remover." That stuff works really well.
Aircraft stripper does not have methylene chloride in it anymore it was banned in the u.s.
Good luck finding a product with methylene chloride now that was maybe a couple years ago that you could get it not anymore my friend
You can buy it at auto parts stores. It works awesome
I have a gallon in the garage
It doesn't work as good as the old stuff but still works good
I always use "Aircraft" paint stripper - seems to work fine but not tried on epoxy.
What is the best way to remove the paint from all the parts including roof, body reinforcements and floor panels? I would like to keep inner structure factory epoxy protection as it is in a good shape? Using paint stripper is not precise and it can soak into some areas unintentionally? How to remove it, not spraying into other surfaces where we would not like to strip the paint from? Will there soda blasting be the best solution? Or maybe all need to be sanded manually with the discs and paper?
Depending on what material I'm removing paint from, my trick is to dose it with the paint remover, cover it with plastic wrap so it doesn't dry out, and chill out for 15-20 minutes. I come back, strip it clean, and reapply if necessary. Sometimes the paint is super stubborn and I've had to leave the stripper on with plastic for up to an hour to put a dent in it. I live in a seriously arid climate and if I don't cover it, it'll dry out and stop working way too fast.
I'm wondering why you use the Rust911 (chelated) for full door submersion when you use the Kleen Strip (phosphoric acid) everywhere else.
Hey Wray, what do you think about striping with 80 grit on a adjustable rpm buffer? Keep it at low rpm and the buffer moving seems to keep the metal cool and unscathed. Obviously, this would only work well on the outside of the panel. Appreciate you sharing your wisdom!
Hi Austin, My general rule that I follow is anything that marks the metal use as little as possible. Now maybe using the sandpaper to remove the topcoats might be OK. Then use stripper on the primer.
@@proshaper Thanks Wray! Your approach is inspiring.
Another great video sir. So you mentioned there was some rust hole and filled with bondo. How long ago you this that door was repaired? Is it more than 20 or 30 years ago? Kind of wonder why the bondo managed to hold to that rusted hole without cracking?
The bondo in that rusted front edge area was packed in there.
Hi Wray, I really enjoy your videos (thanks Mark) I've watched many of your stripping and rust removal videos but what I want to know is once everything is stripped down how do you then protect all the places you can't get paint in, Like inside sill's, the top roof support's etc
thanks again
Squirt paint in the blind areas with paint wands.
Have you tried citrustrip? I'm new to restoring metal, so it's all I've tried. Seems to work fairly well, in my limited experience. Smells like orange.
Hi Wray,
Out of interest, do you not have the chemicals reacting with the new paint, especially if the acid gets into the folds inside?
Do you just go with a good wash and rust treatment after?
Thanks for making these videos,
Regards,
Paul
There is no acid in Rust 911, therefore no problem. Stay tuned I will address the sandwich rust.
Jags are mostly rust. My experience with them is they are always trying to return to the lowest possible energy state.
What is your opinion of using a drum style stripping wheel like with a Metabo burnisher? (steel only)
Anything that makes heavy marks on the sheet metal I generally stay away from. You don't want to remove and material.
What was the heat gun used for? It looks like you used it doe the heavy body filler areas
I use the heat gun to heat up the bondo filler. Once hot it will putty knife off easily.
Hi Wray, what do you think about electrolysis to remove rust?
You have the BEST vids!
I tried it once, I didn't like the mess.
Very interesting part. What about cars from 80s and 90s which have the zinc surface protection. Will the chemisty (paint remover) demege it completely? Especially the areas of the part we do not need to touch during repair.
I don't believe paint remover will harm newer sheet metals. I know sandblasting will.😁😁😁
CRC gasket remover in a spray can is absolutely insane. Looks like the brakleen can. Can be hard to find but Holy Bible that stuff will melt paint like the Queen from Alien.
Good to know, I will try it out.
Does the solution get inbetween the frame and the fold of the door skin to clean that sandwich rust?
Hi Alex, no but the bad section will get cutoff and replaced.
Hi Wray, love your vids and have watched alot of them. Your shrinking disk I have purchased some time ago what are the rpms do you spin the shrinking disk at. I have grinders and variable speed grinders and sanders. I used it on aluminium got it out a bit but not sure if the higher speed would work, also do you have no pressure as in glide the disk over the high spots.
Use a 7" grinder-best is a 9" inch grinder with the 9" inch disc. Grinders turn about 4500 to 6000 RPM with no load, Sander polishers do not turn fast enough. I used to use the shrinking disc on aluminum but it will leave scratches so now I use a slapper, one of my lead shot filled hand held bags and a torch. I have a video showing the procedure in my UA-cam video library. ua-cam.com/users/proshaper. Lots of pressure builds heat quickly, letting the disc glide over the metal blends and finesses the surface. The more you use the disc the better you will get and more confident. Use the torch to shrink anything more than a sixteenth inch high, finish with the disc.
@@proshaper thanks for you help Wray, it finally set in when you said fulcrum and a leaver with the wheel and the panel great vids. Thanks for your interesting show to you and Mark, Thanks Pete
What was the solution that you submerged the door in??
Rust 911 it is a concentrated chelation process. I have been using it for years. One quart of concentrate makes five gallons of solution, just add the water. Envoirmental friendly no hazardous chemicals. I sell one gallon concentrate in my Ebay store.
I would use electrolysis, it’s not the total answer for this problem but it will take an a enormous amount of rust off of that door using just water and Arm and Hammer washing soda, not baking soda. I have used that system before and it worked wonderful but it is not the total answer for that particular door. Electrolysis does not damage any good metal it just takes away the rust.
Have you ever tried electrolysis for rust removal?
great vid thank you. Anyone know the best way to get rust and paint off of steel windows at my house?
Naval jelly: buy it at my Amazon store. The link to my Amazon store is at all of my videos, or at my website www.proshaper.com
@@proshaper thank you!
11m30s " Apaart from the back of this panel here , that's impossible " . Unless you were sandblasting :)
What is the "solution" you add 1 quart of to your rust removing tank?
Rust 911, I have it for sale in my Amazon store. Or buy it direct from Rust 911 . The URL for my Amazon store is at all of my videos. I have been using Rust 911 for at least 10 years it works perfectly. Are you watching my other videos? I have 211 videos at my UA-cam homepage.
@@proshaper I just discovered you today. I will be watching your other videos as well, but I can't watch all 211 of them today, but I will try. My project is not as precious as yours; its an old 2003 Jeep Wrangler that I am trying to "improve". Thanks for sharing your knowledge. From a new fan.
There was a chemical company in Worchester years ago that I went to to acid dip in very large tanks. hat was very good and reasonable. Don't know if they still do it.
Yes, that was Dan he was originally in Shrewsbury in the late 60s then moved to Worcester. He was a Redi Strip dealer at first . He used a alkaline solution for years that was great but it would dissolve all brass and aluminum. In the last few years he was open he changed to a acid dip. I had him dip one job in the new acid, that was my last. The alkaline was perfect, it would keep a fender rust free for 20 years.
used one called citristrip it worked out well but the newer stuff really sucks
Hi Wray, your opinion on electrolysis?
Pretty much not an issue for collector cars. It takes 20 to 50 years of abuse and uncoated surfaces to create a problem. Today's collector cars are pampered and almost never run in mud conditons. Paint or powder coat surfaces and you will be dead for a long while before " your car" under new ownership sees a problem. Don't lose any sleep.
@@proshaper Thank you, but I actually meant as a means to stripping off paint and rust.
@@henriduplessis2640 tried it, it was very messy. I'm not a fan.
Put you stripper on and cover it with plastic . That will keep the chemical from evaporating. I use painters drop cloths
Years ago, Zip Strip used to activate in minutes. I could strip a whole car in a day or less. Today the paints are stubborn plus the power of the paint stripper has been reduced. They do the job but slower, still better than sandblasting.
I use phosphoric acid with zinc I was thinking of getting galvanized paint and adding a little extra. I have directed metal primer it's a high build Sanibel you use PBg that's the rich man stuff😂 not everyone is doing a 40,000 paint job
Man I hope you have a young guy under your wing..
We need to gather all this knowledge.
I haven't found anyone yet that has the inner drive to learn all they can. I have two sons, one is handicapped with Autism, the other is not interested in what I do.
@@proshaper I know the feeling. I build custom welding and work benches. My son has no intrest in the trad e.
Ever heard of low pressure 30psi high volume (cfm) media blasting with plastic ? Check out Drblast
Any media that is blasted hides in crevices and always reveals itself during the paint process.
You sound like the guy on this Old House😅
Cave and pave…..
Would power washing work removing the paint thinner and paint at the same time
I don't think it would work and it would spread the paint remover everywhere.
@@proshaper do it outside lol if it peels it off lol
Aircraft paint remover works amazing on everything just make sure to wear goggles and gloves
So he claims he did "DUESENBERG'S"?? Nope.
Ha Ha, how many fuel pumps are there on a J Duesenberg?