*Print out your own copy of the diagram if you want to follow along from here* - drive.google.com/file/d/1Spuuswiwunle6EZxwYbT15m50K3FZPDf/view?usp=share_link
I’m lost you at the end , is the DTRL module and fuse box one and the same unit( combined)?Or are they two separate units and if so why is the fuse box effecting the module? Does the module have integrated relay that has diode suppressor to protect circuit from high voltage spike on the coil from field shutting down. I see there are two head light relays that are diode suppressed but have to look at screen shot of wiring diagram because I’m watching on my phone and have to expand picture. Thanks again for sharing 🇺🇸
@@billmoran3219 They are *one* part. In cars today, the fuse boxes have fuses on one side of a circuit board, and control moduals on the other side. The control modules can NOT be replaced individually. To replace just one of them you *must* replace the entire fuse box.
My theory is EMS1 FUSE F6 is loosing power or Hot at all times feed to pin 30 for HDLP LOW RELAY, or the hot at all time to drl fuse. This is assuming the I/P FUSE BLOCK section is complete in saying that is is possible for the fault current to be finding it's way via the TURN SIGNAL/MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH grounds. This is based off the fault current not been crazy high. Thinking further likely cause is current going from pin 87 of HDLP LOW RELAY to pin 30 HOT AT ALL TIMES. Test remove HDLP LOW RELAY Does fuse blow with headlights on and crank? If yes check if hot at all times is loosing voltage as i can't see it dropping out completly. Otherwise only other fault option is to do with the drl module.
I'm a former (phew) resident of the PRNY. I do remember that you can't hold the car, but you don't have to pass the inspection if the car has problems. I Agree with that. It's up to me to get it repaired.
I think it might need a new bulb? And man would that be nice if the cops actually arrested the shop guy for holding a car hostage? The cops tell you it's a civil matter take them to court. I see it every day in my job.
Your modesty when you say you're not an electronics guy, and then proceed to accurately track down such a fault is amazing. If I were the customer, I don't think I'd fix it - they can just run the headlights for the same effect. Curious to know if they ask you to do the repair.
Eric is one of the best electronic troubleshooters I've ever seen, with clear understanding of how to use a scope, how energy works in a circuit, etc. I wish the average mechanic had 1/10th of his skill. I consider myself a skilled electronics geek and I learn new tricks here, including better ways to troubleshoot electrical problems in cars.
@@SouthMainAuto I don't think it's a law anywhere in the US requiring DRL. It is in Canada however I believe. And to go with that, cars aren't simply sold in the US, they're sold in North America, so cars are made to fit all markets' laws most of the time as it's easier to have a "one size fits all" approach. DRLs and CARB are one such example. They are legally required in some areas, but not many; however, if all cars are made to those standards, they all will be fine anywhere they're sent.
Customers don't want to pay the time it takes to diagnose. Yesterday I spent 2 hours on an evap system. The fix was to cycle the tankless cap 20 times, blow and lube it, and blow out a plugged evaporate line. "All that $ just to clear out a line". Or the 10 hours charged for a no com, network system down. Fix was a bad connection on a splice. "All that $ for a wire patch" I could be much farther ahead doing a 2 hour mindless brake job and make the same $. Less tools bought, less education and the customer knows no different.
@@mph5896 evap issues are probably the hardest for people to get a grip with. Had a xterra with an evap leak and it had been to 3 other shops. The issue was the first shop fixed it and broke it when the over tightened the purge valve on the evap canister and cracked the new canister. The original canister was bad, they broke the new one, second guy replaced purge and vent valve, third guy replaced gas cap.
@@mph5896 you need better customers lol. I know what you're talking about. I was a service manager for over 10 years. You don't want a customer who's not willing to pay an hours labor for a real diagnosis. And no, a diagnosis is not just reading a code and searching it on identifix lol
Eric, you’re thinking out loud is what makes you so successful with these videos as it shows the track to you take and how you drill drown until you have the solution. You’re also very fair in how you deal with these issues and treat your customers. I sure hope you do well each and every year as you are well worth it.
Holy shit. My girls 2010 Aveo has had the same issue for months except it just blows the headlight. I never once thought to check if it was the DRL causing it. Looks like I might finally solve this issue that's been driving me insane! Thanks! I'll update if this was it.
@@danielbriggs7110 Those auto resetting breakers are great for these intermittent problems. My mother-in-law had a van where the fuse for the fuel pump would blow about every four months and I'd have to drive out to where she was stuck and replace the fuse. I found those auto resetting breakers and the problem never showed up again. She drove it with that thing for years until the van rusted out.
@@danielbriggs7110 see it's not the fuse it literally blows the dipped left headlight. High beam works great. I kinda wish it was only a fuse cause I would honestly do that as a temporarily permanent fix!
Your ability to analyze and break down an electrical circuit and find the issue even after saying that you are not an electrical guy is just outstanding! Great job!
EVERY mechanic knows the invisible force field that occurs when the vehicle passes through the garage doors of the shop and all the problems disappear...LOL
First time seeing someone really track the crap where the problem was coming from. Most guys here in my country would have told me to replace this and that w/o really admitting they don't know what is wrong. Thumbs up to you!
Eric O. is a better man than me. Once I figured out the specific conditions required for the fuse to blow, my solution would have been “hey, don’t do that.”
I was kind of thinking that myself. What would happen if the customer just turned his headlights on AFTER he started the car? I believe he would still have DRL’s and his low beams. It was proven, from previous attempts at trying to find the problem, that there were no underlying hazards pertaining to electrical issues. At some point down the road, could an electrical hazard show up? Who knows.
My uncle ran a service station, a customer came in and said there was a noise on his radio when he turned on the heat. He said don't turn on the heat or turn off the radio. lol
That was mine and I’m sure a lot of peoples first thought. However that puts the “fix” back into the hands of the customer. Asking someone not to do something that could very well be ingrained into their muscle memory is rarely a complete success In any case, that’s a discussion that would have happened, and might have been the solution in the end anyway. Not gonna reshoot an outro for that
I'm a mechanic myself and had a situation today with power folding mirrors! Customer folded them manually and lost the detent. So reset them and said don't fold them manually!
Honest mechanics like you are hard to find these days. Thank you for showing us all the good bad and ugly that goes with servicing vehicles. I am an electrical engineer by trade and I love all of this stiff and understand it very well. Wiring diagrams are a absolute must to have to find problems.(and the ability to understand what they do). Keep up the good work and educating us with your problem solving skills. I like you say "If I can do it you can do it".
Im an EE also. Dont know why the designers brought that green wire from DRL onto the load side of the LH fuse. This causes the current to flow backwards, line between the drl and LH headlight bulb to be unprotected (no fuse) and causes this problem. Green line should run to B+ side of fuse so both headlights are still fused, current does not flow backwards, and this extra draw into the DRL circuitry would not blow the headlamp fuse.
Paul Danner is screaming at the screen, I haven’t a clue what he’s shouting, but he’s getting red faced. Excellent job Eric, you are THE MAN. Fabulous diagnostic skills.
Finally a master diagnosis video! I just (re)learned more on how to diagnose an uncharacteristically weird symptom using science! And logic! Great video, Master O!
Who the hell else would have chased this down - or who would have been able? Perhaps there are a few out there, but this is some impressive diagnostic talent. Also more important is the value system that served to create the force behind the talent (parents). Well, well done.
I'm not discounting Eric's skill, but the guy above is right. Process of elimination, logic, and the right tools to test your hypothesis. Would Joe Blow have been able to get to that without a wiring diagram? Eh maybe, not definitively, but through enough remedial testing could have noticed the amperage draw from the DRL. Sometimes the right tools, applied in a methodical manner, and of course access to the right source material can make all the difference. Big reason shops get paid, they have the tools, and access to material, us average guys don't. (I would have thrown knowledge in there, but unfortunately not always the case).
You just sign a waiver that you know it’s unsafe and you’re willing to drive it in that condition. Some shops have those waivers. I know a certain guy that hints at you a lot to help you out is now doing his own thing because of a recent incident out of his control. I hope he makes it big in the sunshine state I’m rooting for him and I’m in his corner all the way. My home state and he’s a honest mechanic. One of the rarest around just like you man, one of the reasons why I give you views. Changing the world one car at a time the honest way unlike the mechanics at dealerships that throw the parts cannon because of a code.
Belated congratulations on reaching THREE QUARTERS OF A MILLION subscribers. Your shop and work ethic is an inspiration to me for sure and should be to us all.
I really enjoyed this one! He says he’s not an electronics guy and then demonstrates how to solve the mystery using logic. Humility is an extremely rare quality.
I'm not an electronics guy either. But my dad always said if it's broke you can fix it. Some of us mechanics like myself and Eric are naturals. I've been a mechanic for 27+ years. We learn as we go. I only work on vehicles part time now due to health issues but I also am a quality engineer. Didn't go to college at all. My bosses were so impressed with my abilities to troubleshoot I moved up the ladder very quickly. All do to the fact I'm just a mechanic. Not bragging just saying it's a natural ability that the good lord gave us.
My dad used to say a person can fix just about anything with the right tools and information. I have an AA in electronics. I would have struggled without a wiring diagram and the amp clamp. Watching you do the diagnostics though was an excellent example of deductive reasoning, bravo.
Just subscribed. In my younger days even prior to computer addiction I found electrical automotive problems a challenge. Kudos to your excellent logic and schematic reading skills. Once had an 81 Buick Skylark whose lights would fail usually after a rain or damp weather. Suspected bulb failure even though both L&R sides failed. Strangely they both worked after the car ran for a while. After lights quit on my drive home one night I made it the short distance home by moonlight . The next day I noticed green corrosion where the wires went into the firewall and whatever glue or crud the factory used had disintegrated that held them firm. Whenever it was damp the corrosion prevented a connection. When the engine bay heated it up it dried the wires enough to re-connect. Simply cleaned them up for a solid connection & hot glued them in place. Checking for ampere flow would have been the smart way to isolate the issue but back then I had no tools. Your videos are the best out there on car repairs. IMO👍👍👍
Love the ugga dugga videos (brakes especially) but I love these kind of videos too. I (we) learn so much. It's amazing how simply things turn out to be when you stay with logic. Thanks Eric.
Eric, excellent electrical diagnosis. Your electrical diagnosis skills are way better that what you give yourself credit for. A little info in DRL here in Canada, new vehicles sold in Canada since 1989 are required to be equipped with and have functional DRL as per Transport Canada rules, with the exception of the Province of Ontario, where vehicles have to equipped with DRL but if they don't work it is not illegal. Also as of September of 2021 all vehicles being sold in Canada have to have 1 of these 3 functions available. 1. Taillights that come on automatically with the DRL. 2. Headlights, taillights and side marker lights have to turn on automatically in the dark. 3. The dashboard stays dark to alert the driver to turn on their lights.
I am really glad you answered the "Ransom" question...there are way too many shops that do this and the customer doesn't know it's illegal and that they can call the cops for it. As far as the comments about why you don't hold the car...the customer can elect to fix the problems at another shop or even on their own...that is why it can't be held at all.
That was a great diagnosis. Top notch! Daytime running lights are like the third brake light out back. It's an additional safety item. Not necessary. Great Job!
Eric I love the electrical Work and diagnosis that you do. For not being electrician you are definitely extremely knowledgeable with following electrical schematics and diagnosing cars with this nature of problems. As a self-employed electrician for over 35 years I am still always learning something from you when you are working with these crazy electrical situations that you get yourself into. Keep up the great work as always and thanks for sharing another great video.⚡👍
Always impressive to watch you work and troubleshoot. Modest in your knowledge base which is refreshing, no one knows everything. I know I am always learning something new. Keep up the great work and videos.
I applaud you on your patience. Most machanic’s would just push away the customer and move onto the next job however you took the time to correctly diagnose the problem for that man and learned yet another thing on top of your years of knowledge . Thank you.
Thanks for a great diagnostic procedure. It all makes sense. Having the right tools and knowing how to use them makes it fun for us. Regarding the “hold for ransom”, you and all other repair facilities are not enforcement agencies and also not responsible for vehicle owners making bad decisions. Additionally, sometimes the cost of a repair makes fixing it a financial hardship. Probably not as bad as loosing your life to bad brakes or suspension problems. I had a friend who was forced to drive a junker that kept leaving her stranded. AAA rescued her several times when it quit in traffic. The last time I had her ask AAA to drop it at my mechanic to be fixed and I’d pay the bill. I didn’t tell my mechanic about the financial arrangement before the car was fixed so my mechanic asked if she was my daughter and I told hem she was just a friend in need. The bill came to a little over $2,000 and the wide eyed owner of the shop said he would knock off $200 due to the circumstances. Not necessary, of course, but it was a little of the share the love for those less fortunate. He remains my mechanic.
Your a great eletrical/electronics troubleshooter. I've been an electronics tech all my life (I'm 75) and your better than at least 1/2 the techs I've worked with. Good job
Pulled my car into a tire shop for a flat repair. I knew I had a nail in one of the tires. They put the car on the lift. They stated they would NOT do the flat repair and that I needed two new tires. They refused to take my car off the lift. I threatened to call the cops, then they reluctantly brought it down and gave it back to me. 6 months later that tire shop was out of business. I think they were losing customers due to this highly aggressive behavior. The manager had quite the attitude on him.
I had my car in for a yearly State Inspection and he tagged me saying the rear brake pads were not completely wore out, but he was sure I'd need them pads changed before the next inspection. I respectfully declined. 2 years later, just before the second yearly inspection, I changed all 4 brakes out and there was still meat on them.
@@additudeobx To be fair to them, different people cause different amount of wear on pads. It's possible that an aggressive driver would have eaten up those pads. I know someone who goes through a set of pads every 15,000 miles. I have never had a set last me less than 100,000 miles.
Not an expert, but I've seen mechanics refuse to fix certain punctures because of the puncture being in a curved spaced. Knowing they can't seal it as well. And they don't wanna be responsible for a blowout that kills you or someone else.
@@bruticus0875 Sure you can refuse to fix the tire. But you then have to say "Well you can buy a new tire, I can put the spare on, or you can send you on your way with a flat tire." You can't say "I'm not letting you have your car back until you spend money here."
A MOSFET has an intrinsic diode built in between it's source and drain pins that will permit current to flow backward even if the transistor is switched off. The fuse blowing symptom could be explained by the "B+" rail connected to DRL fuse F15 being pulled to ground during starting, which may be a fault external to the fusebox (e.g. ignition switch?).
Just what I was thinking. I'd check what supplies that B+ and what else is fed by the same source. Could be that if the B+ source goes away while cranking, whatever else is on that same line tries getting powered through the 15 amp DRL fuse and then causes the 10 amp headlight fuse to blow. If that's the case, replacing the DRL module/fuse block won't solve the problem.
I was thinking the same (ignition switch), but the diagram say's "hot at all times", so the circuit should not be affectet by the ignition switch. would love to know if the feed for the 15A. fuse, is indeed "hot at all times".
Wow, Eric. You really get some weird problems. But with your logical and technical reasoning, you show us the way thru it. Excellent, excellent presentation. Thank you.
Seventy years old and I've never seen anything like this. Applying logic without getting p.o. Also you avoided the temptation of throwing a 40 amp fuse in there which could have caused a fire but probably would have been best for the car as long as it was outside. Thanks to you, I now talk my way threw problems which scares my neighbors! Great job!
I swear the weirdest electrical gremlins always find themselves at your shop. It's wild to watch you figure this stuff out. Electrical is not my forte. You're the man. 🤘
one reason is eric o has a reputation in the area as a problem solver not a parts cannon user so if you live in the area and have a problem that is unique you go to SMA
Love this diagnosis. Always try to guess myself, was thinking maybe some wire near the starter had chafed it's way to grounding out the circuit. Thanks as always, Eric!
alot of people can turn a wrench, not alot of logical thinkers and electrical diagnostic people out there. eric has a great combination of raw mechanic skills and the right kind of brain for this troubleshooting. great work sir.
Eric, I am thoroughly enjoying your diagnostic abilities with these cars. That DRL system uses a “chopper” circuit to apply a “virtual” lower voltage to the halogen headlight bulbs instead of using a resistor in series with the battery voltage supply. It provides the effect of a dimmer looking bulb for DRL use when using conventional tungsten or halogen filament bulbs. It is wholly incompatible with LED or HID bulbs, as they would flash like a strobe light. The DRL module is essentially using a pulsed forward voltage to oscillate between zero and full voltage, as your scope showed, but the bulb filament cannot react fast enough to achieve full brightness before the current is reduced to zero. The filament sees the oscillation as a reduced average voltage. This has been used on Lexus and other makes to alleviate the large heated power resistor used to normally drop the bulb brightness on most DRL systems. In theory, it allows for longer bulb life over dropped voltage/current resistor types. In this vehicle’s situation, it is likely the load side of the DRL module is shorting the headlight voltage to ground internally, pulling current through the headlight fuse when power is supplied via the headlight switch. The DRL module might be triggered into ground failure when a variable starting voltage is applied to the DRL chopper circuit from the battery on the source side, as the DRL module fuse is not blowing. One way to see this would be to scope the resistance to ground from the DRL wire connected to the left headlight wire during the starting sequence, without voltage applied to the headlamp circuit, and screening any chopped DC voltage if it is present.
1-I can't believe you and Mrs. O have a grandson old enough to drive!! 2-When you diagnose out loud, I believe it helps all of us understand your Problem Determination Procedure...Thank you!!!
Outstanding diagnosis once again! And you're exactly right about the matter of extortion. I've known HVAC companies that will disconnect all the interconnect wiring on an air conditioner when they condemn the unit. (Typically for some B.S. nonsense about environmental damage due to refrigerant leakage) Lots of scam artists out there! But I wouldn't call the cops if I found one... I'd call a lawyer. ;)
Had the cable company cut the wire to my dish when having cable installed. Told them to fix it back, they said they can't work on it since it isnt their equipment, told them they broke it and will fix it or we will have a legal battle. None of their business if i want a dish also or not. Cut it right while i was standing there like it is part of regular procedure.
Yet another Old St. Pete Story....Train Comfort Corp...Big Dealer ....got busted....Salesmen In Disguise ....Th service guy who that they sent to your service call...was not a tech and couldn't fix your system...He would screw around maybe with some tools and a meter or gauges and tell you the it was shot...may he would tell you the compressor was shot...and shoot you a big estimate...and give you a price on replacing the whole system...and of course he was there to sell you a whole system...only if you insisted on the expensive repair would they then send a real tech!...and of course you paid the big bill!
Really liked the “legal opinion”at the end. Have heard several stories of just what you said. Little ole lady or Vulnerable customer extorted into a repair. Glad you put that out there.
If I said once I said it a 1,000 times when it comes to diagnosing electrical systems Eric O has got to be one of the baddest Auto Tech this side of the Mississippi, this brother is no joke! 😎👍🏾
Getting an inconsistent fault to actually become consistent is so hard to do. Really impressed with the diagnosis here. Daytime running lights, wow. Thanks for sharing with us! By the way, while not required anywhere in the USA, they are required if you drive the car in Canada. So he will need them if he crosses the border near NY (after 2010 model year) or he needs to remember to turn on the lights when entering that country, but otherwise they are not required. Thanks for explaining you cannot hold a car for ransom - it is very true.
That’s not entirely true. They are required in Canada, but that only applies to vehicles that are registered here. US registered vehicles are free to cross into Canada without DRLs. Same thing with TPMS. It isn’t a requirement in Canada, and in fact a number of new model vehicles don’t come with it. Those vehicles are free to cross into the US. It becomes a requirement only if you try to register that vehicle in the US.
@@DB-bw5fz Wrong. All cars and light trucks since the 2008 model year are required to be equipped with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System. Some are actively powered by an internal battery-powered radio in the tire assembly, while some are passive using the wheel speed sensor. TPMS is not required to be maintained by the the owner, only to be installed by the vehicle manufacturer. You cannot fail an inspection or be unable to register because your TPMS light is on. People only fix it because of the annoying light.
No, not wrong. In Canada, TPMS is not a requirement, so there are still new vehicles being produced and sold in Canada that don’t have TPMS period. Those vehicles are free to drive down to the US, and there is no requirement for it to be fitted if the vehicle is registered in Canada. Someone trying to bring that vehicle to the US and wanting to register it there on the other hand, it would require functioning TPMS. Same situation with DRLs here. US spec vehicles registered in the US that are visiting Canada do not require functioning DRL. Moving to Canada and registering the vehicle here, and it becomes a requirement if the vehicle is newer than 1990.
To be fair, it was the grandbaby who provided the clue. While I can't say it would never happen, it would be rare for me to leave the lights on while cranking. Maybe if it stalled.
@@DB-bw5fz Thank you for the correction. I was pulled over and warned - and I clearly have CT plates. Why I said so. I guess the Toronto police officer who pulled me over was incorrect last year. Thanks!
The first time I looked at the wiring diagram, after seeing the power spike. My mind started screaming 'ITS THE DRL MODULE!!!'.. LOL I have spent over a decade working on electrical and electronic automotive and industrial components. Everything from communication buss issues, to tail light out. I had a truck one time that the power steering hoses would get red hot when you crank the engine. Nobody could figure it out. I realized the ground between the frame and engine was disconnected, and the stainless steel braids in the p/s hoses were supplementing the ground strap. That oscilloscope function in your scan tool is invaluable for electrical diagnostics. I also like how you were very thorough in your testing, just to make sure nothing jumped out from left field.
This was a great diagnosis Eric! This one was a real bugger to trace down but you are the man! I have never heard of a daytime running light module doing this in any car before...strange.
I really appreciate your honest comments. I think a lot of people ask you that because there's a lot of shops out there that will say customers can't leave. I had tire and brake shops say that to lots of people I know. Believe it or not a lot of people will just do the repair because of that. I'm of your mindset though you can't hold people's cars for ransom.
You say you're not a big electronic guy I beg to differ buddy I've been doing this same stuff for a long time You Are at the top level Your diagnostic theory and approach is spot on I learn stuff from you every time I watch your videos I appreciate them thank you
So, seems the PWM transistor in the DTR is permitting backflow to ground, a work-around would be to grab a pigtailed relay, interrupt Lt green-black at the fuse box with the N/C contacts of a relay (87a & 30) and run the coil (86) to start (85 to Ground) which would isolate the fault during crank, but I know you like putting everything back to factory.
Sometimes an effective troubleshooting technique is to determine what the problem is not . . . in order to discover what the problem is. This is one of those cases I believe. You keep the process simple and follow the facts. In this industry I think there are two things often not used enough. Number 1, amp clamp; Number 2; Oscilloscope. In this case, a scope was not needed. Nice job Eric O!
Drl modules are notorious on these, there was actually a recall on certain ones for catching fire. My aveo was keeping drl on while low beams were active and blowing bulbs/fuses. Ended up letting the smoke out under the column. Most people end up just unplugging them as the recall replacements had the same issues.
Eric O we need you here (Canada) with all the electrical issues cars or pick up trucks have you are the most to the point technician that fixes cars or trucks very well done
Daytime running lights are only required in Finland, Denmark, Iceland, and Norway. For some reason US auto manufacturers lobbied to have them mandatory in the US but failed, but practically every new American car has them anyway. One difference between Eric and Ivan is Ivan would have cracked open the daytime running lights box to see if he could repair it (unlike Eric Ivan is an "big electronics guy") as he is obsessed with no parts required, but he also is into Russian repairs meaning if you can make it work, no need to fix something else that's not needed.
Actually, they're required in the entire EU. And Canada, which is why this car has them - they wouldn't be legal in the EU, though, because they're implemented via a lazy method US car manufacturers forced the Canadian government to accept. Once they forced that, they wanted the US to permit them to reduce production costs.
@@Monkeh616 👍 Yes, and I should more accurately said that US (and Australia) lobbied to have daytime running lights "permitted", for which they were successful.
You, Mr O are a master mechanic!! You underestimate yourself when you say you’re not an electronics guy, you are a smart logical thinker and can reason out a problem and THAT MAKES YOU an electronics guy and an excellent problem solver!! I live outside Buffalo and wish I lived closer to you because you would be my mechanic for sure!! Thanks for sharing your videos and your expertise!!
Another great video Eric O. as always your thought process is second to none.And glad you addressed the reason you can not force someone to fix there car and not give it back if they don't.Once again great video.
Resistor in the daytime running light module went Haywire very easy Fix just pull the DRL Fuse To stop the Daytime running light circuit most people don't like daytime running lights anyways because it shortens the life of the bulbs because there always on Good Video Eric O @South Main Auto Repair LLC
Excellent video thank you so very much that is crazy how that thing would blow a fuse like that unreal beautiful way of tracking down the problem you are the man Eric love your channel so much thank you
What an unusual problem REALLY WELL FOUND!! I love watching you do your job and trying then to follow your logic as you go through any problems you encounter trying to fix peoples cars! Love it Eric keep up the amazing work 😊
Another great video! I live in Toronto, Canada and it’s a law here to have DRL Being a licensed tech the problems I have seen what DRL can cause when it goes bad is insane
It has to be built in the car? In Czech Republic (and some other EU countries) the law mandates lights beeing on in daytime but it doesnt dictate how you do it. You can have DRL circuit or you can manualy use low beams evrytime you drive.
Maybe law to have the feature working for safety inspection but in Ontario this only gets inspected when the vehicle changes hands. If Drl fails later, just switch on headlights manually and no one will ever know.
*Print out your own copy of the diagram if you want to follow along from here* - drive.google.com/file/d/1Spuuswiwunle6EZxwYbT15m50K3FZPDf/view?usp=share_link
I’m lost you at the end , is the DTRL module and fuse box one and the same unit( combined)?Or are they two separate units and if so why is the fuse box effecting the module? Does the module have integrated relay that has diode suppressor to protect circuit from high voltage spike on the coil from field shutting down. I see there are two head light relays that are diode suppressed but have to look at screen shot of wiring diagram because I’m watching on my phone and have to expand picture. Thanks again for sharing 🇺🇸
@@billmoran3219 They are *one* part. In cars today, the fuse boxes have fuses on one side of a circuit board, and control moduals on the other side. The control modules can NOT be replaced individually. To replace just one of them you *must* replace the entire fuse box.
My theory is EMS1 FUSE F6 is loosing power or Hot at all times feed to pin 30 for HDLP LOW
RELAY, or the hot at all time to drl fuse.
This is assuming the I/P FUSE BLOCK section is complete in saying that is is possible for the fault current to be finding it's way via the TURN SIGNAL/MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH grounds.
This is based off the fault current not been crazy high.
Thinking further likely cause is current going from pin 87 of HDLP LOW RELAY to pin 30 HOT AT ALL TIMES.
Test remove HDLP LOW RELAY Does fuse blow with headlights on and crank?
If yes check if hot at all times is loosing voltage as i can't see it dropping out completly.
Otherwise only other fault option is to do with the drl module.
I'm a former (phew) resident of the PRNY. I do remember that you can't hold the car, but you don't have to pass the inspection if the car has problems. I Agree with that. It's up to me to get it repaired.
I think it might need a new bulb? And man would that be nice if the cops actually arrested the shop guy for holding a car hostage? The cops tell you it's a civil matter take them to court. I see it every day in my job.
Eric O: “I’m not an electronics guy”
Also Eric O: Gives a master class in automotive electronics troubleshooting
Your modesty when you say you're not an electronics guy, and then proceed to accurately track down such a fault is amazing.
If I were the customer, I don't think I'd fix it - they can just run the headlights for the same effect. Curious to know if they ask you to do the repair.
Nahhh the guy is like 80. He has no interest in fixing it so long as it works as it is.
it's a better fix than just jamming a 15 amp fuse
Eric is one of the best electronic troubleshooters I've ever seen, with clear understanding of how to use a scope, how energy works in a circuit, etc. I wish the average mechanic had 1/10th of his skill. I consider myself a skilled electronics geek and I learn new tricks here, including better ways to troubleshoot electrical problems in cars.
@@SouthMainAuto I don't think it's a law anywhere in the US requiring DRL. It is in Canada however I believe. And to go with that, cars aren't simply sold in the US, they're sold in North America, so cars are made to fit all markets' laws most of the time as it's easier to have a "one size fits all" approach. DRLs and CARB are one such example. They are legally required in some areas, but not many; however, if all cars are made to those standards, they all will be fine anywhere they're sent.
@@GReaper I think the closet we come is Maine requires headlights in rain, snow, fog and ect. DRLs are acceptable to meet this during the day.
It's nice to see someone actually do a diagnosis. Lots of parts changers out there.
Customers don't want to pay the time it takes to diagnose. Yesterday I spent 2 hours on an evap system. The fix was to cycle the tankless cap 20 times, blow and lube it, and blow out a plugged evaporate line. "All that $ just to clear out a line".
Or the 10 hours charged for a no com, network system down. Fix was a bad connection on a splice. "All that $ for a wire patch"
I could be much farther ahead doing a 2 hour mindless brake job and make the same $. Less tools bought, less education and the customer knows no different.
Parts changer here! 👋🏻 but I only work on my own ride
@@mph5896 evap issues are probably the hardest for people to get a grip with. Had a xterra with an evap leak and it had been to 3 other shops. The issue was the first shop fixed it and broke it when the over tightened the purge valve on the evap canister and cracked the new canister. The original canister was bad, they broke the new one, second guy replaced purge and vent valve, third guy replaced gas cap.
@@mph5896 you need better customers lol. I know what you're talking about. I was a service manager for over 10 years. You don't want a customer who's not willing to pay an hours labor for a real diagnosis. And no, a diagnosis is not just reading a code and searching it on identifix lol
ill always load the parts cannon since oriellys says if the part doesn't fix the issue we will refund you
Eric, you’re thinking out loud is what makes you so successful with these videos as it shows the track to you take and how you drill drown until you have the solution. You’re also very fair in how you deal with these issues and treat your customers. I sure hope you do well each and every year as you are well worth it.
Sometimes I wish I were still doing what I used to love, then I see these odd ball problems and remind my self that at 78 I deserve to just watch.
Eric and his methodical process for diagnosing, especially electrical diagnostics, is truly inspiring.
Holy shit. My girls 2010 Aveo has had the same issue for months except it just blows the headlight. I never once thought to check if it was the DRL causing it. Looks like I might finally solve this issue that's been driving me insane! Thanks! I'll update if this was it.
Worth a try.. or just buy an auto resetting fuse 😏😏😏
@@danielbriggs7110 Those auto resetting breakers are great for these intermittent problems. My mother-in-law had a van where the fuse for the fuel pump would blow about every four months and I'd have to drive out to where she was stuck and replace the fuse. I found those auto resetting breakers and the problem never showed up again. She drove it with that thing for years until the van rusted out.
@@danielbriggs7110 see it's not the fuse it literally blows the dipped left headlight. High beam works great. I kinda wish it was only a fuse cause I would honestly do that as a temporarily permanent fix!
@@thehatchetwarrior808 it blows the filament in a filament bulb? Or blows an LED type thing?
Your ability to analyze and break down an electrical circuit and find the issue even after saying that you are not an electrical guy is just outstanding! Great job!
EVERY mechanic knows the invisible force field that occurs when the vehicle passes through the garage doors of the shop and all the problems disappear...LOL
And the customer's faces of disappointment...priceless! What's funny it happened to me twice today. Intermittents are the worse!
Seems to be the same at the doctors office.🤣
Go figure, I must have a rare breed. Mine shows up and acts up in a different way for my local guy.
Computer technicians, too.
Yup, like my customer just yesterday with a brake squeak. 20 minutes I drove around with him and, nothing
Great stuff , well done. Thank you for fixing and posting.
"Not a big electronics guy" --Eric O is literally the BEST electrical diagnostic mechanic ik.
You are one bad ass tech! I’m a retired mechanic and truly appreciate seeing a craftsman at work!
Having the right test equipment and the knowledge to use and diagnose is your gift to all of us!!! THANKS!!
You are a master puzzle solver👍👍
You know that a SMA video is getting good when you start getting goosebumps as the plot thickens.
I found myself inching ever closer to the screen as each new fact was revealed.
First time seeing someone really track the crap where the problem was coming from. Most guys here in my country would have told me to replace this and that w/o really admitting they don't know what is wrong. Thumbs up to you!
Eric O. is a better man than me. Once I figured out the specific conditions required for the fuse to blow, my solution would have been “hey, don’t do that.”
I was kind of thinking that myself. What would happen if the customer just turned his headlights on AFTER he started the car? I believe he would still have DRL’s and his low beams. It was proven, from previous attempts at trying to find the problem, that there were no underlying hazards pertaining to electrical issues. At some point down the road, could an electrical hazard show up? Who knows.
My uncle ran a service station, a customer came in and said there was a noise on his radio when he turned on the heat. He said don't turn on the heat or turn off the radio. lol
That was mine and I’m sure a lot of peoples first thought. However that puts the “fix” back into the hands of the customer. Asking someone not to do something that could very well be ingrained into their muscle memory is rarely a complete success
In any case, that’s a discussion that would have happened, and might have been the solution in the end anyway. Not gonna reshoot an outro for that
I'm a mechanic myself and had a situation today with power folding mirrors! Customer folded them manually and lost the detent. So reset them and said don't fold them manually!
find the sequence and avoid the sequence.... my car forces the headlights on if i turn on the wipers.... so i only use the wipers at night
Honest mechanics like you are hard to find these days. Thank you for showing us all the good bad and ugly that goes with servicing vehicles. I am an electrical engineer by trade and I love all of this stiff and understand it very well. Wiring diagrams are a absolute must to have to find problems.(and the ability to understand what they do). Keep up the good work and educating us with your problem solving skills. I like you say "If I can do it you can do it".
Im an EE also. Dont know why the designers brought that green wire from DRL onto the load side of the LH fuse. This causes the current to flow backwards, line between the drl and LH headlight bulb to be unprotected (no fuse) and causes this problem. Green line should run to B+ side of fuse so both headlights are still fused, current does not flow backwards, and this extra draw into the DRL circuitry would not blow the headlamp fuse.
Paul Danner is screaming at the screen, I haven’t a clue what he’s shouting, but he’s getting red faced.
Excellent job Eric, you are THE MAN. Fabulous diagnostic skills.
Wow! I didn’t know it was a LAW that a mechanic could not keep your car a make you fix it. Thank you sir for the valuable information!👍🏾
Finally a master diagnosis video! I just (re)learned more on how to diagnose an uncharacteristically weird symptom using science! And logic! Great video, Master O!
Can’t tell you how much I’ve learned about tracing electrical problems from this guy.
Who the hell else would have chased this down - or who would have been able? Perhaps there are a few out there, but this is some impressive diagnostic talent. Also more important is the value system that served to create the force behind the talent (parents). Well, well done.
There's plenty scanner Danner , Ivan, Keith, wes, could of all found this problem
If you can read schematics, know basic electrical theory and able to use your noggin, then you could do it too.
I'm not discounting Eric's skill, but the guy above is right. Process of elimination, logic, and the right tools to test your hypothesis.
Would Joe Blow have been able to get to that without a wiring diagram? Eh maybe, not definitively, but through enough remedial testing could have noticed the amperage draw from the DRL.
Sometimes the right tools, applied in a methodical manner, and of course access to the right source material can make all the difference.
Big reason shops get paid, they have the tools, and access to material, us average guys don't. (I would have thrown knowledge in there, but unfortunately not always the case).
Pine hollow auto diagnostics would have found it
@@sirsweetness6047 likely would tore the module/fuse panel apart to see why it would work right
These are my favorite videos on this channel: weird electrical issues.
You just sign a waiver that you know it’s unsafe and you’re willing to drive it in that condition. Some shops have those waivers. I know a certain guy that hints at you a lot to help you out is now doing his own thing because of a recent incident out of his control. I hope he makes it big in the sunshine state I’m rooting for him and I’m in his corner all the way. My home state and he’s a honest mechanic. One of the rarest around just like you man, one of the reasons why I give you views. Changing the world one car at a time the honest way unlike the mechanics at dealerships that throw the parts cannon because of a code.
Belated congratulations on reaching THREE QUARTERS OF A MILLION subscribers. Your shop and work ethic is an inspiration to me for sure and should be to us all.
I have to tell you that you are one of the best mechanics that I have ever seen. Thank you.
I really enjoyed this one! He says he’s not an electronics guy and then demonstrates how to solve the mystery using logic. Humility is an extremely rare quality.
I'm not an electronics guy either. But my dad always said if it's broke you can fix it. Some of us mechanics like myself and Eric are naturals. I've been a mechanic for 27+ years. We learn as we go. I only work on vehicles part time now due to health issues but I also am a quality engineer. Didn't go to college at all. My bosses were so impressed with my abilities to troubleshoot I moved up the ladder very quickly. All do to the fact I'm just a mechanic. Not bragging just saying it's a natural ability that the good lord gave us.
Really like this guy - incredibly methodical in his approach to electronic problems. Very, very smart. Thanks for your insights.
My dad used to say a person can fix just about anything with the right tools and information. I have an AA in electronics. I would have struggled without a wiring diagram and the amp clamp. Watching you do the diagnostics though was an excellent example of deductive reasoning, bravo.
Just subscribed. In my younger days even prior to computer addiction I found electrical
automotive problems a challenge. Kudos to your excellent logic and schematic reading skills. Once had an 81 Buick Skylark whose lights would fail usually after a rain or damp
weather. Suspected bulb failure even though both L&R sides failed. Strangely they both worked after the car ran for a while. After lights quit on my drive home one night I made
it the short distance home by moonlight . The next day I noticed green corrosion where the wires went into the firewall and whatever glue or crud the factory used had disintegrated that held them firm. Whenever it was damp the corrosion prevented a connection. When the engine bay heated it up it dried the wires enough to re-connect. Simply cleaned them up for a solid connection & hot glued them in place. Checking for ampere flow would have been the smart way to isolate the issue but back then I had no tools.
Your videos are the best out there on car repairs. IMO👍👍👍
Love the ugga dugga videos (brakes especially) but I love these kind of videos too. I (we) learn so much. It's amazing how simply things turn out to be when you stay with logic. Thanks Eric.
Yeah..the rusty gold videos are my favorite too.
I do enjoy your thought process!
Eric, excellent electrical diagnosis. Your electrical diagnosis skills are way better that what you give yourself credit for. A little info in DRL here in Canada, new vehicles sold in Canada since 1989 are required to be equipped with and have functional DRL as per Transport Canada rules, with the exception of the Province of Ontario, where vehicles have to equipped with DRL but if they don't work it is not illegal. Also as of September of 2021 all vehicles being sold in Canada have to have 1 of these 3 functions available. 1. Taillights that come on automatically with the DRL. 2. Headlights, taillights and side marker lights have to turn on automatically in the dark. 3. The dashboard stays dark to alert the driver to turn on their lights.
Phantom vehicles on the roads are a big problem here. See it all the time.
You mentioned "Weird aftermarket crap" and "grandbaby" in the same video... Sounds like we found our fall-guy!
I am really glad you answered the "Ransom" question...there are way too many shops that do this and the customer doesn't know it's illegal and that they can call the cops for it.
As far as the comments about why you don't hold the car...the customer can elect to fix the problems at another shop or even on their own...that is why it can't be held at all.
That was a great diagnosis. Top notch! Daytime running lights are like the third brake light out back. It's an additional safety item. Not necessary. Great Job!
Eric I love the electrical Work and diagnosis that you do. For not being electrician you are definitely extremely knowledgeable with following electrical schematics and diagnosing cars with this nature of problems. As a self-employed electrician for over 35 years I am still always learning something from you when you are working with these crazy electrical situations that you get yourself into. Keep up the great work as always and thanks for sharing another great video.⚡👍
“Welcome to the real world kid” this type of commentary is why I love this channel. Keep it up Eric
Always impressive to watch you work and troubleshoot. Modest in your knowledge base which is refreshing, no one knows everything. I know I am always learning something new. Keep up the great work and videos.
Your patience and skill come through, again. Good teaching lesson.
I applaud you on your patience. Most machanic’s would just push away the customer and move onto the next job however you took the time to correctly diagnose the problem for that man and learned yet another thing on top of your years of knowledge . Thank you.
Thanks for a great diagnostic procedure. It all makes sense. Having the right tools and knowing how to use them makes it fun for us.
Regarding the “hold for ransom”, you and all other repair facilities are not enforcement agencies and also not responsible for vehicle owners making bad decisions.
Additionally, sometimes the cost of a repair makes fixing it a financial hardship. Probably not as bad as loosing your life to bad brakes or suspension problems.
I had a friend who was forced to drive a junker that kept leaving her stranded. AAA rescued her several times when it quit in traffic. The last time I had her ask AAA to drop it at my mechanic to be fixed and I’d pay the bill. I didn’t tell my mechanic about the financial arrangement before the car was fixed so my mechanic asked if she was my daughter and I told hem she was just a friend in need. The bill came to a little over $2,000 and the wide eyed owner of the shop said he would knock off $200 due to the circumstances. Not necessary, of course, but it was a little of the share the love for those less fortunate. He remains my mechanic.
Its like you are a magician troubleshooting electrical problems..Always entertaining as usual. Keep up the good work.
For “not being” an electronics guy your pretty damn good. Excellent who done it video, love these.
Eric
I have mad respect for your diagnostic skills!
Your a great eletrical/electronics troubleshooter. I've been an electronics tech all my life (I'm 75) and your better than at least 1/2 the techs I've worked with. Good job
Pulled my car into a tire shop for a flat repair. I knew I had a nail in one of the tires. They put the car on the lift. They stated they would NOT do the flat repair and that I needed two new tires. They refused to take my car off the lift. I threatened to call the cops, then they reluctantly brought it down and gave it back to me.
6 months later that tire shop was out of business. I think they were losing customers due to this highly aggressive behavior. The manager had quite the attitude on him.
wal mart told me they couldn't repair the tire so they could put the spare on or sell me a tire. i bought a tire RH helped some
I had my car in for a yearly State Inspection and he tagged me saying the rear brake pads were not completely wore out, but he was sure I'd need them pads changed before the next inspection.
I respectfully declined.
2 years later, just before the second yearly inspection, I changed all 4 brakes out and there was still meat on them.
@@additudeobx To be fair to them, different people cause different amount of wear on pads. It's possible that an aggressive driver would have eaten up those pads. I know someone who goes through a set of pads every 15,000 miles. I have never had a set last me less than 100,000 miles.
Not an expert, but I've seen mechanics refuse to fix certain punctures because of the puncture being in a curved spaced. Knowing they can't seal it as well. And they don't wanna be responsible for a blowout that kills you or someone else.
@@bruticus0875 Sure you can refuse to fix the tire. But you then have to say "Well you can buy a new tire, I can put the spare on, or you can send you on your way with a flat tire." You can't say "I'm not letting you have your car back until you spend money here."
Dude!! one of the best videos you've captured in process. Only You or Ivan could have figured this out.
A MOSFET has an intrinsic diode built in between it's source and drain pins that will permit current to flow backward even if the transistor is switched off. The fuse blowing symptom could be explained by the "B+" rail connected to DRL fuse F15 being pulled to ground during starting, which may be a fault external to the fusebox (e.g. ignition switch?).
Just what I was thinking. I'd check what supplies that B+ and what else is fed by the same source. Could be that if the B+ source goes away while cranking, whatever else is on that same line tries getting powered through the 15 amp DRL fuse and then causes the 10 amp headlight fuse to blow. If that's the case, replacing the DRL module/fuse block won't solve the problem.
I was thinking the same (ignition switch), but the diagram say's "hot at all times", so the circuit should not be affectet by the ignition switch. would love to know if the feed for the 15A. fuse, is indeed "hot at all times".
He forgot to check the end line specs for the rotary girder.
Half way through I made some popcorn and then enjoyed the resolution. Thanks Eric!
Such a good diagnostician. Seriously, thank you for posting these videos. I love them.
Wow, Eric. You really get some weird problems. But with your logical and technical reasoning, you show us the way thru it. Excellent, excellent presentation. Thank you.
Seventy years old and I've never seen anything like this. Applying logic without getting p.o. Also you avoided the temptation of throwing a 40 amp fuse in there which could have caused a fire but probably would have been best for the car as long as it was outside. Thanks to you, I now talk my way threw problems which scares my neighbors! Great job!
Eric O saying "I'm not a big electronics person" is like Mark Knopfler singing "Can't get no fancy notes on my blue guitar". 😂
Thank you for showing us the "why" as well as the "what" and the "when".
I swear the weirdest electrical gremlins always find themselves at your shop. It's wild to watch you figure this stuff out. Electrical is not my forte. You're the man. 🤘
one reason is eric o has a reputation in the area as a problem solver not a parts cannon user so if you live in the area and have a problem that is unique you go to SMA
This . This is why I watch this channel
Love this diagnosis. Always try to guess myself, was thinking maybe some wire near the starter had chafed it's way to grounding out the circuit. Thanks as always, Eric!
alot of people can turn a wrench, not alot of logical thinkers and electrical diagnostic people out there. eric has a great combination of raw mechanic skills and the right kind of brain for this troubleshooting. great work sir.
Eric, I am thoroughly enjoying your diagnostic abilities with these cars. That DRL system uses a “chopper” circuit to apply a “virtual” lower voltage to the halogen headlight bulbs instead of using a resistor in series with the battery voltage supply. It provides the effect of a dimmer looking bulb for DRL use when using conventional tungsten or halogen filament bulbs. It is wholly incompatible with LED or HID bulbs, as they would flash like a strobe light. The DRL module is essentially using a pulsed forward voltage to oscillate between zero and full voltage, as your scope showed, but the bulb filament cannot react fast enough to achieve full brightness before the current is reduced to zero. The filament sees the oscillation as a reduced average voltage. This has been used on Lexus and other makes to alleviate the large heated power resistor used to normally drop the bulb brightness on most DRL systems. In theory, it allows for longer bulb life over dropped voltage/current resistor types. In this vehicle’s situation, it is likely the load side of the DRL module is shorting the headlight voltage to ground internally, pulling current through the headlight fuse when power is supplied via the headlight switch. The DRL module might be triggered into ground failure when a variable starting voltage is applied to the DRL chopper circuit from the battery on the source side, as the DRL module fuse is not blowing. One way to see this would be to scope the resistance to ground from the DRL wire connected to the left headlight wire during the starting sequence, without voltage applied to the headlamp circuit, and screening any chopped DC voltage if it is present.
Awesome
1-I can't believe you and Mrs. O have a grandson old enough to drive!! 2-When you diagnose out loud, I believe it helps all of us understand your Problem Determination Procedure...Thank you!!!
Hi Eric, You are right, there are no mandates for DRLs in the U.S. But as always, I like your style in problem-solving. Thank you
Eric O has the nowledge, the tools, and the patience, but above all that, Eric O has wisdom. 🤔
Outstanding diagnosis once again!
And you're exactly right about the matter of extortion. I've known HVAC companies that will disconnect all the interconnect wiring on an air conditioner when they condemn the unit. (Typically for some B.S. nonsense about environmental damage due to refrigerant leakage) Lots of scam artists out there!
But I wouldn't call the cops if I found one... I'd call a lawyer. ;)
Had the cable company cut the wire to my dish when having cable installed. Told them to fix it back, they said they can't work on it since it isnt their equipment, told them they broke it and will fix it or we will have a legal battle. None of their business if i want a dish also or not. Cut it right while i was standing there like it is part of regular procedure.
Yet another Old St. Pete Story....Train Comfort Corp...Big Dealer ....got busted....Salesmen In Disguise ....Th service guy who that they sent to your service call...was not a tech and couldn't fix your system...He would screw around maybe with some tools and a meter or gauges and tell you the it was shot...may he would tell you the compressor was shot...and shoot you a big estimate...and give you a price on replacing the whole system...and of course he was there to sell you a whole system...only if you insisted on the expensive repair would they then send a real tech!...and of course you paid the big bill!
Really liked the “legal opinion”at the end. Have heard several stories of just what you said. Little ole lady or Vulnerable customer extorted into a repair. Glad you put that out there.
Great diagnostic! That was a curve I did not see coming. Great video. Keep them coming
If I said once I said it a 1,000 times when it comes to diagnosing electrical systems Eric O has got to be one of the baddest Auto Tech this side of the Mississippi, this brother is no joke! 😎👍🏾
Getting an inconsistent fault to actually become consistent is so hard to do. Really impressed with the diagnosis here. Daytime running lights, wow. Thanks for sharing with us! By the way, while not required anywhere in the USA, they are required if you drive the car in Canada. So he will need them if he crosses the border near NY (after 2010 model year) or he needs to remember to turn on the lights when entering that country, but otherwise they are not required. Thanks for explaining you cannot hold a car for ransom - it is very true.
That’s not entirely true. They are required in Canada, but that only applies to vehicles that are registered here. US registered vehicles are free to cross into Canada without DRLs.
Same thing with TPMS. It isn’t a requirement in Canada, and in fact a number of new model vehicles don’t come with it. Those vehicles are free to cross into the US. It becomes a requirement only if you try to register that vehicle in the US.
@@DB-bw5fz Wrong. All cars and light trucks since the 2008 model year are required to be equipped with a Tire Pressure Monitoring System. Some are actively powered by an internal battery-powered radio in the tire assembly, while some are passive using the wheel speed sensor. TPMS is not required to be maintained by the the owner, only to be installed by the vehicle manufacturer. You cannot fail an inspection or be unable to register because your TPMS light is on. People only fix it because of the annoying light.
No, not wrong. In Canada, TPMS is not a requirement, so there are still new vehicles being produced and sold in Canada that don’t have TPMS period. Those vehicles are free to drive down to the US, and there is no requirement for it to be fitted if the vehicle is registered in Canada. Someone trying to bring that vehicle to the US and wanting to register it there on the other hand, it would require functioning TPMS.
Same situation with DRLs here. US spec vehicles registered in the US that are visiting Canada do not require functioning DRL. Moving to Canada and registering the vehicle here, and it becomes a requirement if the vehicle is newer than 1990.
To be fair, it was the grandbaby who provided the clue. While I can't say it would never happen, it would be rare for me to leave the lights on while cranking. Maybe if it stalled.
@@DB-bw5fz Thank you for the correction. I was pulled over and warned - and I clearly have CT plates. Why I said so. I guess the Toronto police officer who pulled me over was incorrect last year. Thanks!
This was an interesting challenge, Eric - thanks for taking us along.
That was a great video, Eric. The process of tracking the problem was an enjoyable bit of education. Nicely done.
The first time I looked at the wiring diagram, after seeing the power spike. My mind started screaming 'ITS THE DRL MODULE!!!'.. LOL I have spent over a decade working on electrical and electronic automotive and industrial components. Everything from communication buss issues, to tail light out.
I had a truck one time that the power steering hoses would get red hot when you crank the engine. Nobody could figure it out. I realized the ground between the frame and engine was disconnected, and the stainless steel braids in the p/s hoses were supplementing the ground strap.
That oscilloscope function in your scan tool is invaluable for electrical diagnostics. I also like how you were very thorough in your testing, just to make sure nothing jumped out from left field.
This was a great diagnosis Eric! This one was a real bugger to trace down but you are the man! I have never heard of a daytime running light module doing this in any car before...strange.
I really appreciate your honest comments. I think a lot of people ask you that because there's a lot of shops out there that will say customers can't leave.
I had tire and brake shops say that to lots of people I know. Believe it or not a lot of people will just do the repair because of that. I'm of your mindset though you can't hold people's cars for ransom.
Eric you are indeed an electronics expert, don’t sell yourself short 👍👍⚡️⚡️ great video
You say you're not a big electronic guy I beg to differ buddy I've been doing this same stuff for a long time You Are at the top level Your diagnostic theory and approach is spot on I learn stuff from you every time I watch your videos I appreciate them thank you
26:50 If you notice an issue with a vehicle, notify the customer on paper, to protect yourself. Unless you want to be seen on The People's Court!
Not an electronic guy? I come here for your electrical knowledge and have learned alot over the years.
So, seems the PWM transistor in the DTR is permitting backflow to ground, a work-around would be to grab a pigtailed relay, interrupt Lt green-black at the fuse box with the N/C contacts of a relay (87a & 30) and run the coil (86) to start (85 to Ground) which would isolate the fault during crank, but I know you like putting everything back to factory.
That was a great diagnostic! I won't spoil anything here for folks who haven't watched yet, but I wouldn't have guessed at the cause. Not even close.
CND are the worst to troubleshoot. Good on you and him giving you as much info as possible
I hear an aircraft background. Myself as well.
Sometimes an effective troubleshooting technique is to determine what the problem is not . . . in order to discover what the problem is. This is one of those cases I believe. You keep the process simple and follow the facts. In this industry I think there are two things often not used enough. Number 1, amp clamp; Number 2; Oscilloscope. In this case, a scope was not needed. Nice job Eric O!
Drl modules are notorious on these, there was actually a recall on certain ones for catching fire. My aveo was keeping drl on while low beams were active and blowing bulbs/fuses. Ended up letting the smoke out under the column. Most people end up just unplugging them as the recall replacements had the same issues.
Eric O we need you here (Canada) with all the electrical issues cars or pick up trucks have you are the most to the point technician that fixes cars or trucks very well done
Daytime running lights are only required in Finland, Denmark, Iceland, and Norway. For some reason US auto manufacturers lobbied to have them mandatory in the US but failed, but practically every new American car has them anyway.
One difference between Eric and Ivan is Ivan would have cracked open the daytime running lights box to see if he could repair it (unlike Eric Ivan is an "big electronics guy") as he is obsessed with no parts required, but he also is into Russian repairs meaning if you can make it work, no need to fix something else that's not needed.
Actually, they're required in the entire EU. And Canada, which is why this car has them - they wouldn't be legal in the EU, though, because they're implemented via a lazy method US car manufacturers forced the Canadian government to accept. Once they forced that, they wanted the US to permit them to reduce production costs.
@@Monkeh616 👍 Yes, and I should more accurately said that US (and Australia) lobbied to have daytime running lights "permitted", for which they were successful.
You, Mr O are a master mechanic!! You underestimate yourself when you say you’re not an electronics guy, you are a smart logical thinker and can reason out a problem and THAT MAKES YOU an electronics guy and an excellent problem solver!!
I live outside Buffalo and wish I lived closer to you because you would be my mechanic for sure!! Thanks for sharing your videos and your expertise!!
As always, great content with the troubleshooting!
That should be just fine. If driver wants lights on in day time, just turn them on.(like the older vehicles) GREAT JOB AS ALWAYS!!!
Another great video Eric O. as always your thought process is second to none.And glad you addressed the reason you can not force someone to fix there car and not give it back if they don't.Once again great video.
Eric you're awesome at diagnostic. Love your videos.
Just gotta say AES wave is awesome. I’ve bought 2 different scanners from them they are great
Resistor in the daytime running light module went Haywire very easy Fix just pull the DRL Fuse To stop the Daytime running light circuit most people don't like daytime running lights anyways because it shortens the life of the bulbs because there always on Good Video Eric O @South Main Auto Repair LLC
Excellent video thank you so very much that is crazy how that thing would blow a fuse like that unreal beautiful way of tracking down the problem you are the man Eric love your channel so much thank you
Great diagnosis on this electrical problem. You are a talented self-made mechanic/technician. I enjoy watching your channel.
Very interesting case study as Ivan would say. Great explanation and testing procedure. Thanks for sharing.
You are extraordinary. An inspiration to all. It is an honour to watch and learn from you.
What an unusual problem REALLY WELL FOUND!! I love watching you do your job and trying then to follow your logic as you go through any problems you encounter trying to fix peoples cars! Love it Eric keep up the amazing work 😊
I wish you lived close to me when I have vehicle problems! Great video!
Another great video! I live in Toronto, Canada and it’s a law here to have DRL Being a licensed tech the problems I have seen what DRL can cause when it goes bad is insane
It has to be built in the car? In Czech Republic (and some other EU countries) the law mandates lights beeing on in daytime but it doesnt dictate how you do it. You can have DRL circuit or you can manualy use low beams evrytime you drive.
Maybe law to have the feature working for safety inspection but in Ontario this only gets inspected when the vehicle changes hands. If Drl fails later, just switch on headlights manually and no one will ever know.