Just did this job and found 2 out of eight coils were good. (Probably had already been replaced ) The other six were just like this and had to be replaced. Wish we would have known because it's always cheaper to order ahead of time. Thanks for the accurate video and the heads up to everybody else!
Great information!! I'm starting by just changing the plugs and wires. Hopefully I don't run into the situation you're describing! I'm currently now search on how to test the coils before attacking the job. Thanks for the info.
You can buy an entire set of coils on the auction site for less than $200, spark plugs for $100, and wires for $50. Replacing everything may take between 1-2 hours.
@@bdub2521 Kool thanks...I did go ahead and buy the truck...it has 150 on the miles ..one owner truck...was used for construction business in a small town...so far it's a good truck... getting about 13mpg...
@@bdub2521I have a 2017 but just got coils for 100+, wires for 200+ and plugs for 70 and they're all oem from ebay. I figured it'll be cheaper than the dealership. They quoted me 950 for the front brakes and I got the rotors for 350 and the pads for 80. That's oem also and less than 1/2 the price.
Even if you bite the bullet and pay a shop to do this $900-$1000 every 100k still cheaper ownership then running my diesel. With the computer work and emissions on the new diesels it was killing me.
I run a fleet shop, we have about 65 ford F250's, just in the last couple weeks we're finding coils sparking on the fuel rail, so far every hood I opened has spark tracing on the fuel rail. I see this being an issue in the near future, possible fire. The coil is sparking on the fuel rail.
I am having the same issue with my 2016 with 48k miles on it. We have 13 F250s and have never seen this before. 2001-2019. I decided to buy 16 Ford spark plugs and MSD coils. I have had issues with dry coil boots causing corrosion on the contact springs causing a misfire, always used plenty of dielectric grease when replacing them. The factory 5.4L coils are easily good for 200k miles. Have a strong feeling that this is caused by the little pill thing at the top of the coil corroding. I pulled all 8 of my coils last month when I first noticed this, cleaned them up really good and greased them. No change still arcing on the fuel rail. There must be a microscopic hole that I didn’t see. Hard to believe the resistance is greater down to the spark plug then out the side of the coil to the rail, and it still runs great!
@@austinaubinoe2195 One of our trucks started doing this at 15000 miles, we go back with Standard Brand Coils and NGK plugs and one of the better off brand wires and plenty of dielectric, so far the problem is fixed once we put the aftermarket stuff on them. its a shame. We have contacted a ford rep, he came out and took some pictures and waiting on him too " get back with us". We just did one yesterday cost $919.00 for the tune up.
@@simpleman2004 the aftermarket replacement coils are seriously expensive for this engine and it’s surprising. Summit racing makes a coil for the 2v and 3v 5.4 for $200 a set and I have had excellent luck with those. The second spark plug part Must make these more expensive to produce. I know in high energy spark applications black distributor caps can lead to arcing between points, and arc tracking in the plastic. Apparently the black plastic contains some carbon. That’s why I wanted to go with the red plastic MSD coils. About the same price as even the Standard brand. In fact I can get Motorcraft for $71 each, but there is just no way. They should have warrantied that truck with 15k, that is absolutely ridiculous. No idea how this is a huge well known issue. I saw it happening with my own eyes and I really had to dig to figure it out.
@@austinaubinoe2195 I have an 11 F150 Plat 6.2L With almost 200K Was sparking like crazy when I got it. But it ran ok. I got 8 coils on amazon for $100. They had good reviews. One of them failed and had terrible shutter and got a misfire code. They sent a new coil, good for a few months. Now I get some random shutter. I kept the old coils, I may put the new boots on them.
@@alb12345672 you may find that the contact in the top of those coils are severely corroded, as mine are at 50k miles. Also I looked at the arc and it is coming out of the coil above the boot, so new boots will not do anything. I would suggest buying better coils if you need the truck to be reliable.
Wonder if this is my issue. I just put new plugs and wires in a work truck that had 175k miles and now it barely cranks and won’t stay running. Everything went so smooth swapping plugs I couldn’t believe how it ran after
i work in fleet and ive had to do the coils on every tune up ive done on the 6.2 the last one only had 70000 kilometres but alot of idle time but there is no salt on the minesite so its not caused by that
Ford dealer sells the coils for 155 bucks a piece for one side and 165 bucks each for the opposite side. You're not kidding it would be expensive - especially at a Ford dealer !!!
I think Ford does this intentionally with the coils. Just had to change all my coils because even though they were working fine the fins that hold the resistors in place are made to get brittle and break off when you try to remove old resistor. Someone needs to make something that after drilling old fins out you can drop in coil so it will hold new resistors in place.
Mechanics get paid by the hour and time allowed. Just because we can do a job in a fraction of the time does not mean we wont be paid the full time allowed. You can do it yourself if you want cheap labor.
Just did this job and found 2 out of eight coils were good. (Probably had already been replaced ) The other six were just like this and had to be replaced. Wish we would have known because it's always cheaper to order ahead of time. Thanks for the accurate video and the heads up to everybody else!
His many miles did you get out of these?
I’m at 89,000 miles and just got a p0301 code (cylinder 1 misfire)
Great information!! I'm starting by just changing the plugs and wires. Hopefully I don't run into the situation you're describing! I'm currently now search on how to test the coils before attacking the job. Thanks for the info.
I ran into the same issue with my coils. Had to buy new coils.
Appreciate you... Thinking about buying one I don't know now because you know 1200$ for spark plugs is ridiculous
You can buy an entire set of coils on the auction site for less than $200, spark plugs for $100, and wires for $50.
Replacing everything may take between 1-2 hours.
@@bdub2521 Kool thanks...I did go ahead and buy the truck...it has 150 on the miles ..one owner truck...was used for construction business in a small town...so far it's a good truck... getting about 13mpg...
@@bdub2521I have a 2017 but just got coils for 100+, wires for 200+ and plugs for 70 and they're all oem from ebay. I figured it'll be cheaper than the dealership. They quoted me 950 for the front brakes and I got the rotors for 350 and the pads for 80. That's oem also and less than 1/2 the price.
Even if you bite the bullet and pay a shop to do this $900-$1000 every 100k still cheaper ownership then running my diesel. With the computer work and emissions on the new diesels it was killing me.
I run a fleet shop, we have about 65 ford F250's, just in the last couple weeks we're finding coils sparking on the fuel rail, so far every hood I opened has spark tracing on the fuel rail. I see this being an issue in the near future, possible fire. The coil is sparking on the fuel rail.
I am having the same issue with my 2016 with 48k miles on it. We have 13 F250s and have never seen this before. 2001-2019. I decided to buy 16 Ford spark plugs and MSD coils.
I have had issues with dry coil boots causing corrosion on the contact springs causing a misfire, always used plenty of dielectric grease when replacing them. The factory 5.4L coils are easily good for 200k miles.
Have a strong feeling that this is caused by the little pill thing at the top of the coil corroding. I pulled all 8 of my coils last month when I first noticed this, cleaned them up really good and greased them. No change still arcing on the fuel rail. There must be a microscopic hole that I didn’t see. Hard to believe the resistance is greater down to the spark plug then out the side of the coil to the rail, and it still runs great!
@@austinaubinoe2195 One of our trucks started doing this at 15000 miles, we go back with Standard Brand Coils and NGK plugs and one of the better off brand wires and plenty of dielectric, so far the problem is fixed once we put the aftermarket stuff on them. its a shame. We have contacted a ford rep, he came out and took some pictures and waiting on him too " get back with us". We just did one yesterday cost $919.00 for the tune up.
@@simpleman2004 the aftermarket replacement coils are seriously expensive for this engine and it’s surprising. Summit racing makes a coil for the 2v and 3v 5.4 for $200 a set and I have had excellent luck with those. The second spark plug part Must make these more expensive to produce.
I know in high energy spark applications black distributor caps can lead to arcing between points, and arc tracking in the plastic. Apparently the black plastic contains some carbon. That’s why I wanted to go with the red plastic MSD coils. About the same price as even the Standard brand. In fact I can get Motorcraft for $71 each, but there is just no way.
They should have warrantied that truck with 15k, that is absolutely ridiculous. No idea how this is a huge well known issue. I saw it happening with my own eyes and I really had to dig to figure it out.
@@austinaubinoe2195 I have an 11 F150 Plat 6.2L With almost 200K Was sparking like crazy when I got it. But it ran ok. I got 8 coils on amazon for $100. They had good reviews. One of them failed and had terrible shutter and got a misfire code. They sent a new coil, good for a few months. Now I get some random shutter. I kept the old coils, I may put the new boots on them.
@@alb12345672 you may find that the contact in the top of those coils are severely corroded, as mine are at 50k miles. Also I looked at the arc and it is coming out of the coil above the boot, so new boots will not do anything.
I would suggest buying better coils if you need the truck to be reliable.
I got a little freebie snap on screw driver just like that.
Wonder if this is my issue. I just put new plugs and wires in a work truck that had 175k miles and now it barely cranks and won’t stay running. Everything went so smooth swapping plugs I couldn’t believe how it ran after
Ty for your time and learnen
i work in fleet and ive had to do the coils on every tune up ive done on the 6.2 the last one only had 70000 kilometres but alot of idle time but there is no salt on the minesite so its not caused by that
I found the coils genuine OEM Ford coil for $65 each on Amazon
Ford dealer sells the coils for 155 bucks a piece for one side and 165 bucks each for the opposite side. You're not kidding it would be expensive - especially at a Ford dealer !!!
I think Ford does this intentionally with the coils. Just had to change all my coils because even though they were working fine the fins that hold the resistors in place are made to get brittle and break off when you try to remove old resistor. Someone needs to make something that after drilling old fins out you can drop in coil so it will hold new resistors in place.
it is 12:58 sunday the 28th and im driving behind you
How does the bus sound?
Great video. What cylinder number is that. I know fords do things ass backwards.
All looked the same. Replaced all.
Thank you.
cool
Trying to get everybodies pocket..you should be ashamed...
4 hours....come on man..i m not a mechanic, it took me 1 hour and a half....
Yeah, I changed all 16 of mine in about 2 hours, and that's cause I took the time to take the wheel well shield off to get the bottom plugs off.
Thats including his break and lunch 🤣
Your the absolute last person I would want working on my truck if a simple tune up on a 6.2 takes you 4 hours.
Just wow.
Mechanics get paid by the hour and time allowed. Just because we can do a job in a fraction of the time does not mean we wont be paid the full time allowed. You can do it yourself if you want cheap labor.