Brother every person I talked to about this said I was going to need extra set of hands. Well you proved them all wrong, that was the best repair video I've seen yet. Thanks for your help cause boy I needed it. I am disabled from having a screwed up back and 4 surgeries later I can walk now so as far as taking it in to get repaired was out of the question. Take care and be safe. Greg
You rock buddy swapped mine out on the f250 and I wouldn't have been able to do it with out watching your video. wish you were closer I'd buy you a case if beer!!
I've done plenty of U-joints but not that double cardan. I'm still considering replacing the whole shaft. God is with me, but NAPA has a warranty. Nice job, by the way. Some jobs just don't go the way we expect. In this business there are enough variables in most jobs so it's unusual when everything goes perfectly. We just do as you did and work with it. Looking for more of your videos. I am always looking for someone with different specialties than I have, who do this job every day. I feel I can really pick up some valuable pointers from guys like you. Thanks for your efforts.
Your right there, nothing goes as expected. Especially if it goes perfectly. If the ujoints get too bad they can damage the centering pin and then you need to replace the shaft anyway. If it’s affordable I would probably replace the shaft too.
Thank you Thank you Thank you. Welding that nut on the rounded off bolt head is genius. I have done it for broken bolts but your clever method never occurrd to me. You have shown me how to deal with the rusty bolt heads on my exhaust that look like small marshmallow peeps.
No problem glad I could help. It’s my favorite method to get out broken or stripped bolts. I know what you mean about the exhaust bolts and nuts being impossible to use a wrench on. I’ve used an impact hammer with a chisel bit and gotten the corner of it on the edge of a nut and been able to get it to turn off with it. I use it for grease fittings that are stripped too.
Thanks for this video. Getting ready to replace the u-joints on front drive shaft on my 97 F350 and never dealt with this double cardan. It had me wanting to double check what I’m getting myself into before I start pulling it apart, but this video gave me a good visual to go by even with the front of my shaft is a little different, but that wasn’t the part I was concerned with. Thanks again
No trouble, thank you for watching. I accidentally knocked the needle bearings out where the little stub goes into the center ball thing. I can’t remember if I had that in the video but it’s something to look out for. I just put them back in with a little grease.
They are a pain. This one actually gave me some trouble. I had a needle fall down into the bottom of a cap and had to remove it to fix it. I had a cap crack and had to get another ujoint to replace it. I also lost a few of the needles from the centering ball and had to search for about an hour to find them. I’m sure this was all due to recording it. 😂 I had a run of bad luck with ujoints around this time.
No problem. I don’t know if it how it’s supposed to be done but it’s how I do it. 😁 thank you for watching. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
Boy do I feel an idiot after watching your video! I'm half way through repairing a double cardon on s Land Rover. Anyway I was messing about with the vice and sockets to press the joint apart and after watching this I remembered I have one of those g clamp kits I use for swivel joints and knuckle joints. Doh, would have saved me about an hour 😁
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic You taught me to think it through before tearing in there. Boy do my arms ache now lol. Great video and when the parts arrive I know what tool I'll be using. But seriously, your bang on, we learn new things every day. Have a good one 😊
Finally got all the u joints off the front driveshaft on this 08 F250 but the new ones wouldn't fit because they were a little too wide. Those snap rings come out great with the air chisel and the oxy acetylene torch melts the rust out of the grooves. I can't believe how often they fail, even down south.
I had a question mine came with a ball seat and the ball from what I gather is welded on the driveshaft end from what I'm told it's spring , washer , 3 ball seats, washer then the seal and all that gets pressed on to the ball with a vise and some tool any advice on that would be very appreciated
27:23 the woes of needle bearings. I frickin dropped the needle bearings from the swivel ball all over the vice and the floor when I was trying to jockey the old u joints out. Fricken eh
Jason, thank you for the video. I have watched several of them. I’m replacing the front universal joints on my 08 F550 and I would like to know if you have a link to buy moog joints somewhere. I could just get them directly from moog but I would rather buy them through you to support your channel.
Maybe a stupid question...but...when pressing the new caps onto the new u joints...is it possible to over due it and press the caps on too far, or do the caps bottom out as to prevent such a thing?
If you are using a ball joint press, You can over do it and crack the cap on the opposite side from the one you are pushing in. If you have the clip on holding the cap in, the cross can push on the center of the cap and break it while pushing the opposite side on. I’ve only done it once and ironically while I was making this video. The caps are going to be pretty tight to get the clips on but the cap should be ok when pushing in the middle. You can’t push them on the cross too far if pushing in the middle of the cap. If you are pushing them on with a socket and not supporting the center of the cap it can break them.
I don’t remember off hand what the universal joint part numbers were, but there were a bunch of different ujoints that were listed for the different locations and truck options so you will want to verify what ones you need. For this driveshaft I believe they were all moog 331’s.
I actually didn’t drop that one. I think I knocked it out when I was putting it in. I always check them before I try to put them on. Or I broke it with the press pushing it too hard.
after using cleaner put a dab of oil up in there after they are dried so the u joint cups don't seize in there for the next guy or your self lol been there bent one of those balljoint tools trying to push rusted cups out was crazy
If you look at 12:34 in the video you can see the ball in the middle of the section I took off that is sitting on the vise. The spring is in the little stub that sticks out of the drive shaft and it goes into the hole in the ball. You can see it good at 16:00
On my driveshaft, the cup cup there with the needle bearings is all rusted and sloppy. Is there away to repair that cup? or what do I got to do? thanks.
I’m not sure what part exactly your asking about. I’m guessing your looking for the cv ball that goes in the center with the rod that goes into it? Here is a site that sells them and talks about the centering ball. You can go to spicer.com also, they didn’t specify the later years but the torque king site seems to say they are the same ball. torqueking.com/category/constant-velocity-parts-spicer-99-16-ford-sd/ you will need to verify the one you need. Hope this helps.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic Yes. My centering ball wore out. I found where to get the centering ball replacement. But I can't seem to find to find the a replaceable rod that goes into it. Do you know what that rod is called and if its replaceable? thanks.
I didn’t look at it that closely to see if the rod is replaceable but you can probably get a whole new piece with the rod and have it welded in at a driveshaft shop. Fleet prides usually do driveshaft work. It may be cheaper to get one from a salvage yard with a good stud and change out the joints on that one.
I imagine that it would work better providing it fits between the knuckles in the joint. What are you going to use to install the caps with? I find driving them in with a hammer knocks the needle bearings out and you don’t find out until the cap won’t go on. That’s part of the reason I use the ball joint press.
Now for installing the bearing caps that’s where I use the ball joint press but for if some reason the U joint puller tool Wouldn’t fit then I would exclusively use the ball joint press for removing and installing the bearing caps but I will admit that I haven’t done that type of Drive shaft you’re working on in the video yet but if one comes my way then I will see what method I will use to fix it
It does look like a nice puller. I don’t change many u-joints so I’ve just made do with the ball joint press. I’ve had pretty good luck with it. There might be a new tool in my future.
Brother every person I talked to about this said I was going to need extra set of hands. Well you proved them all wrong, that was the best repair video I've seen yet. Thanks for your help cause boy I needed it. I am disabled from having a screwed up back and 4 surgeries later I can walk now so as far as taking it in to get repaired was out of the question. Take care and be safe. Greg
Thank you. I appreciate it. I’m glad it helped. I wish you the best for the future, god bless.
You rock buddy swapped mine out on the f250 and I wouldn't have been able to do it with out watching your video. wish you were closer I'd buy you a case if beer!!
It’s no problem. I’m glad I could help. Thank you for leaving a comment I appreciate it.
I've done plenty of U-joints but not that double cardan. I'm still considering replacing the whole shaft. God is with me, but NAPA has a warranty. Nice job, by the way. Some jobs just don't go the way we expect. In this business there are enough variables in most jobs so it's unusual when everything goes perfectly. We just do as you did and work with it. Looking for more of your videos. I am always looking for someone with different specialties than I have, who do this job every day. I feel I can really pick up some valuable pointers from guys like you. Thanks for your efforts.
Your right there, nothing goes as expected. Especially if it goes perfectly. If the ujoints get too bad they can damage the centering pin and then you need to replace the shaft anyway. If it’s affordable I would probably replace the shaft too.
Thank you Thank you Thank you. Welding that nut on the rounded off bolt head is genius. I have done it for broken bolts but your clever method never occurrd to me. You have shown me how to deal with the rusty bolt heads on my exhaust that look like small marshmallow peeps.
No problem glad I could help. It’s my favorite method to get out broken or stripped bolts. I know what you mean about the exhaust bolts and nuts being impossible to use a wrench on. I’ve used an impact hammer with a chisel bit and gotten the corner of it on the edge of a nut and been able to get it to turn off with it. I use it for grease fittings that are stripped too.
Thanks for this video. Getting ready to replace the u-joints on front drive shaft on my 97 F350 and never dealt with this double cardan. It had me wanting to double check what I’m getting myself into before I start pulling it apart, but this video gave me a good visual to go by even with the front of my shaft is a little different, but that wasn’t the part I was concerned with. Thanks again
No trouble, thank you for watching. I accidentally knocked the needle bearings out where the little stub goes into the center ball thing. I can’t remember if I had that in the video but it’s something to look out for. I just put them back in with a little grease.
Good work. This helped me with an up coming project.
Thanks for the detailed video. Helped me get through mine.
Glad it could help
I have to say those things are aggravating but enjoy the video keep up the good work man
They are a pain. This one actually gave me some trouble. I had a needle fall down into the bottom of a cap and had to remove it to fix it. I had a cap crack and had to get another ujoint to replace it. I also lost a few of the needles from the centering ball and had to search for about an hour to find them. I’m sure this was all due to recording it. 😂 I had a run of bad luck with ujoints around this time.
Thank you very Much for the video appreciate the paticience you gave us by teaching how is suppose to be done
No problem. I don’t know if it how it’s supposed to be done but it’s how I do it. 😁 thank you for watching. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
Very good explanation for the subject
Boy do I feel an idiot after watching your video! I'm half way through repairing a double cardon on s Land Rover. Anyway I was messing about with the vice and sockets to press the joint apart and after watching this I remembered I have one of those g clamp kits I use for swivel joints and knuckle joints. Doh, would have saved me about an hour 😁
Those joints can be tough. I’m not to proud to say I learn new things everyday
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic You taught me to think it through before tearing in there. Boy do my arms ache now lol.
Great video and when the parts arrive I know what tool I'll be using.
But seriously, your bang on, we learn new things every day. Have a good one 😊
Finally got all the u joints off the front driveshaft on this 08 F250 but the new ones wouldn't fit because they were a little too wide. Those snap rings come out great with the air chisel and the oxy acetylene torch melts the rust out of the grooves. I can't believe how often they fail, even down south.
I know. I have to change a axle ujoint in my truck once it warms up. I’m going to try and get a greaseable one when I do.
ED, is there popping noise when ball/socket is bad?
Use a torch to soften up that thread locker next time. They come out with ease, even on rust buckets
Deal with same rusty snap ring grooves here too. Wont lay in there nice unless its the same exact clocking
Good vid even with the smartass co workers 😂
I had a question mine came with a ball seat and the ball from what I gather is welded on the driveshaft end from what I'm told it's spring , washer , 3 ball seats, washer then the seal and all that gets pressed on to the ball with a vise and some tool any advice on that would be very appreciated
Thanks for the video, very helpful 🔧
Amen thank you 🙏👌
thanks! was very useful to me
27:23 the woes of needle bearings. I frickin dropped the needle bearings from the swivel ball all over the vice and the floor when I was trying to jockey the old u joints out. Fricken eh
I dropped a few of the needle bearings too. I looked for about an hour to find the few that fell on the floor.
Thank you for the video !
No problem. Hope it helped.
I find a little grease on the outside of the cups and inside the holes helps them slide in easier.
That would probably help, thank you.
what rebuild kit did you get ?
Let's hope that guy found his truck keys
Jason, thank you for the video. I have watched several of them. I’m replacing the front universal joints on my 08 F550 and I would like to know if you have a link to buy moog joints somewhere. I could just get them directly from moog but I would rather buy them through you to support your channel.
I appreciate you wanting to help but I don’t have any affiliate links. Thank you though.
Maybe a stupid question...but...when pressing the new caps onto the new u joints...is it possible to over due it and press the caps on too far, or do the caps bottom out as to prevent such a thing?
If you are using a ball joint press, You can over do it and crack the cap on the opposite side from the one you are pushing in. If you have the clip on holding the cap in, the cross can push on the center of the cap and break it while pushing the opposite side on. I’ve only done it once and ironically while I was making this video. The caps are going to be pretty tight to get the clips on but the cap should be ok when pushing in the middle. You can’t push them on the cross too far if pushing in the middle of the cap. If you are pushing them on with a socket and not supporting the center of the cap it can break them.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic Sweet! Thanks for the info and the quick response. Very much appreciated.
Awesome video thank you! What were the part numbers for the universal joints? Just ask for 331?
I don’t remember off hand what the universal joint part numbers were, but there were a bunch of different ujoints that were listed for the different locations and truck options so you will want to verify what ones you need. For this driveshaft I believe they were all moog 331’s.
Let me guess, the broken cap was the one you dropped earlier? Dislodged the needle bearing?
I actually didn’t drop that one. I think I knocked it out when I was putting it in. I always check them before I try to put them on. Or I broke it with the press pushing it too hard.
after using cleaner put a dab of oil up in there after they are dried so the u joint cups don't seize in there for the next guy or your self lol been there bent one of those balljoint tools trying to push rusted cups out was crazy
Makes perfect sense. Thank you.
question for you i knwo this is an old video but where is the ball and spring for the center section at?
If you look at 12:34 in the video you can see the ball in the middle of the section I took off that is sitting on the vise. The spring is in the little stub that sticks out of the drive shaft and it goes into the hole in the ball. You can see it good at 16:00
thanks for mentioning this so many folks just give it to her dry and the next guy has it ruff
Hello, dear friend! I'm from China, drive shaft parts production factory! High quality and low price, looking forward to cooperating with you!
On my driveshaft, the cup cup there with the needle bearings is all rusted and sloppy. Is there away to repair that cup? or what do I got to do? thanks.
I’m not sure what part exactly your asking about. I’m guessing your looking for the cv ball that goes in the center with the rod that goes into it? Here is a site that sells them and talks about the centering ball. You can go to spicer.com also, they didn’t specify the later years but the torque king site seems to say they are the same ball. torqueking.com/category/constant-velocity-parts-spicer-99-16-ford-sd/ you will need to verify the one you need. Hope this helps.
@@JasonTheMunicipalMechanic Yes. My centering ball wore out. I found where to get the centering ball replacement. But I can't seem to find to find the a replaceable rod that goes into it. Do you know what that rod is called and if its replaceable? thanks.
I didn’t look at it that closely to see if the rod is replaceable but you can probably get a whole new piece with the rod and have it welded in at a driveshaft shop. Fleet prides usually do driveshaft work. It may be cheaper to get one from a salvage yard with a good stud and change out the joints on that one.
I don’t know your specific vehicle but summit racing had some dorman driveshafts for 279-350 dollars for a 2012 f350.
Yeah I have the OEM tools 24539
And matco MST5189 should work better than using a ball joint press
I imagine that it would work better providing it fits between the knuckles in the joint. What are you going to use to install the caps with? I find driving them in with a hammer knocks the needle bearings out and you don’t find out until the cap won’t go on. That’s part of the reason I use the ball joint press.
Now for installing the bearing caps that’s where I use the ball joint press but for if some reason the U joint puller tool Wouldn’t fit then I would exclusively use the ball joint press for removing and installing the bearing caps but I will admit that I haven’t done that type of Drive shaft you’re working on in the video yet but if one comes my way then I will see what method I will use to fix it
It does look like a nice puller. I don’t change many u-joints so I’ve just made do with the ball joint press. I’ve had pretty good luck with it. There might be a new tool in my future.
Yeah buddy I don’t do many you joint myself but it’s definitely a nice tool to have also I got
Oemtools 24538 24548 and OTC 7490