Hi Dan I have built your version of the Cross Cut Half Sled and it has proved to be one of the most useful additions to my saw bench. Many thanks, Phil
Thanks for doing this, much appreciated! Getting into woodworking myself and love the down to earth approach and humor. Very surprised for a wormhole extreme reference but happy to see it :)
@@elfpimp1 I have seen each episode at least 10 times. I am a press photographer so I have photographed them (the cast) too on the red carpet and other places.
In general, I appreciate hearing your thought processes. Pros and cons of different approaches and why you choose to do things. And not afraid to admit a mistake.
As total beginner I have a very small table top saw and I have not seen a cross cut sledge small enough to use on it. But this one will be brilliant. I'm now watching all your videos. I love the fact you admit when you made an error... it makes me feel better. Thanks. I tried to buy something from your Amazon link but they didn't post to the UK. So I subscribed and did a thumbs up. Thank you
Thanks, and I'm glad I could help! I love showing errors, so people can get some ideas of how to deal with them. Steve Ramsey did a couple of videos last week that showed him making mistakes, and I really appreciated knowing he makes the same kinds of goofs that I do. 😄Sorry the Amazon links don't work in the UK - I haven't figured out all the details to make them work. One of these days...
Thanks! I'm planning on it for the next video. The problem is that I'm not always very coherent when I talk while working. It worked out well this time, but only time will tell how it goes in the future. 😉
Threw this together and it's so convenient. It works great, and as a neophyte wood butcher, you did a great job of holding my hand getting through it. Thanks for the tutorial.
I'd have posted a pic of this, or the full-sled, but evidently that capability/privilege is not afforded to the freebie UA-camrs. Alas... Not that there's anything special about either, you know...new hobby, early projects, a Tom Hanks "Cast Away" moment...Look what I have created!.
@@4refnump As far as I know, UA-cam has never allowed embedded images in comments, and considering the volume they're dealing with, I don't blame them. However, you can always upload your images to an online service, and include links here. Also, there's lots of woodworking websites that have forums where you can post these types of pictures, if you just want to "show off" 😄😉
LOL, maybe. He might still think I need to do the math. But we're all indebted to him for either coming up with the idea, or popularizing it, that's for sure! 😄
Thanks very much. A total beginner here with a new portable table saw. Bought it like a month ago and still scared to do any cutting on it. With this video, I'm a step closer of really using it. Thanks a lot. New sub all the way from North Borneo 👍👍👍
Awesome - glad I could help, and welcome aboard! 😄Make sure you watch my video on kickback - the more you learn, the safer you can be. ua-cam.com/video/ZUZ8hRm7a8g/v-deo.html
I saw that too, Tim. But I figured I've spent enough time talking about SawStop-specific stuff to last a lifetime, so I didn't mention it. 😛Thanks for the comment. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker you got it, tis an Aussie thing much like when we see something that's seriously awesome "shit hot" gets used quite a lot too! 😉👍🏽
I am going to see the pros and cons of the kickback pawls on mu Sawstop PCS. They don't work very well. Do you have comments about these stupid pawls? I almost never use the blade guard. But lately I have started to. Great video.
Thanks. I think the blade guard or a riving knife is critical to stopping kickback. The blade guard itself can help as well to protect you from wandering too close to the blade. And if you think you never get close to the blade, run a camera for an hour or so while you're working, then check the footage. If you're anything like me, you'll be shocked to see how close you get sometimes. You might notice I haven't mentioned your main question - pawls. Honestly, I've almost never used them.
Hi Dan Back from our travels, albeit briefly. Off to Tassie in a week. Anyway, the cheap table saw I got for Linda's daughter actually only has a mitre slot on one side, so I can't see if the full sized sled would work. It would only be able to track down the one slot and I doubt it be worth doing. What do you think? Off topic. We have rain. About an inch in 24 hours. Who would've thought? Rain in Australia. They say that half the fires are out. That means only about 80 in our state. Better than double that and maybe the tennis players will have a better time breathing. Cheers Col
Welcome back. I heard about the rains, and how they're a mixed blessing because of the ash runoff. But I'm glad a lot of the fires are going out! I actually think the sled would probably work OK, even with just one miter slot. Make sure you add the rear support piece, though. ua-cam.com/video/cQINXsn2QBk/v-deo.html
Very nice. The piece of melamine on the backside of the fence to support the guard past the cut-- that would have to be at least as tall/thick as the thickness of the stock you are cutting, yes? How forgiving is this? Do you have any problems if/when this is mismatched, for example if the melamine was 3/4" thick and the stock was say, a 1" thick board? When does the difference in thicknesses become an issue with binding of the guard on the return?
Yes, there could be some tear-out with the piece not completely supported - it just depends on the size and type of wood. Honestly, I use my full sled for most everything I do. ua-cam.com/video/cQINXsn2QBk/v-deo.html
@@TheNewbieWoodworker My apologies if the question wasn't clear-- not so much a question of tear-out, but rather a question of the blade guard catching on the stock on the return pass if that melamine piece doesn't match its thickness.
@@BetterByThePound1 Yes, when pushing the sled back to its original location, the blade guard can catch, for sure. Not as much with the full version, though.
6:27 Hey Dan, I'm guessing what happened to make the 1st strip perfect and the 2nd strip tight, from the same fence position, is blade deflection on the 2nd one. Some bit of grain in one of the layers had to have had a slight angle to it, just slightly not straight to the cut line, and the wood in that angled grain was of sufficient hardness that it deflected the blade ever so slightly, laterally away from the fence a couple thou, cutting a wider 2nd strip. This didn't happen on the 1st one because either it was from a different piece of plywood, or the same piece but oriented differently, so that this bit of harder angled grain wasn''t in the blade path, or else because your pre-cuts on each end to sneak up on the width got the blade past the harder deflection point when you made the full cut.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker well ive worked in sawmills for 28 years, and using every and all kinds of wood working machinery, we always used silicone spray, it doesnt affect any metal, if anything if makes it water proof, so if your in a damp enviroment it will prevent any rust occurring too..any thing with a bed like straight line edgers, crosscut saws, bands saws, chopsaws..planers, it makes materials easier to move and so is safer as you dont need any pressure, thet cause undue any accidental movment of material. and all the types of wood, be it hardwood or softwood
The second and third rails were cut from one thicker piece they were probably picked up at the same time making the off cut just slightly wider then the track
Thanks! You're the second person to mention the ring this week. I'll have to think about what to do, because I'd never be able to remember to take it off in the shop.
Made sled and it is great. My guard on my Dewalt rises up and down with the blade. Trying to do half lap joints, the wood couldn't slide under the guard. Any suggestions how to solve this?
I bought my table saw two years ago and I’m scared to use it to cross cut cause my table saw is a ryobi and it only has one track 😢. So could I make the half sled for cross cut ???
Hi Dan, Great sled. Not sure if it would work for my saw as I can't remember if it has the drop-down wings as it has sat on the shelf since I've had the saw, OOPS!! Have a great Christmas and New Year with your family and friends. Cheers, Huw
What if the build the sled to fit beyond the blade, then use a "drop into position" method over the blade before you start your job that would give adequate strength..
I assume you're talking about the full sled. That's a good idea, but it requires a couple of things. First, you have to be able to remove the guard part itself, and I'm not sure all blade guards are built that way. And secondly, the metal part of the guard has to not have anything sticking out of it. If you watch around 3:43, you'll see a post sticking out of the metal part, right behind where the plastic guard attaches. That would get in the way. Of course, if you happen to notice in other shots, I took an angle grinder to those posts, so your idea actually would work for me. In the long run, I don't think it's necessary to have the additional support you're talking about, but I think it's a great idea, and I'll see if I can work that into the build video somehow. Thanks! 😄
Not being facetious, Dan. After watching your first sled video using the guard, I knew it wouldn't work on mine given the pawls :/ Thanks for following up with this video. Your effort to design a sled, and produce a video to share are much appreciated from this newer newbie!
@@anneoreilly4900 Thanks. I still feel like I'm missing something, so let me add this: I don't use the anti-kickback pawls, and I honestly don't think they're necessary if you're using a riving knife or blade guard. (But of course you have to do what you feel is safest, and I'm just some guy on the internet, etc. 😄) With my blade guard, there are two posts that stick out of the side of the metal part of the blade guard, for the pawls to rest, and they get in the way of using a push stick. So I used an angle grinder and removed them. Don't know if that helps or not. 😄
☺ appreciate the response! I'm thinking your little pieces that drop down act like pawls. I can adapt that idea for my, almost as old as me, Craftsman.
@@anneoreilly4900 No problem - I like talking about this kind of stuff. 🙂Pawls are designed to grab the stock and sink their teeth into it, if the stock is in the process of being kicked back. But to me, they just get in the way, and and they can damage soft wood. If you haven't seen my video on kickback, you should watch it - some people find it scary, but I think understanding kickback is the best way to avoid it. ua-cam.com/video/ZUZ8hRm7a8g/v-deo.html
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I forgot to mention. If you look at my avatar, that's really me, with a real rifle, in real multicam,,in real armor with my K9 partner in Afghanistan. . I call it my Col. Jack O'Neal look..
I'm with you, and if I hadn't been so accident-prone in recent months, I still wouldn't use it. But now, I sort-of like the safer feeling it gives me. Still, I wouldn't use it if I didn't need it.
Ummmm.... Wouldn't the blade not need to go so far past the back (Toward the operator) if it was raised higher? It's a geometry thing. The circle of the blade intersecting the rectangle of the wood. The rectangle moves along a line representing the table top. The upper corner represents the point at which the wood is cut completely through. The intersection of the circle with the line gets closer to the front face of the rectangle which means it cuts less of the sled as the blade is raised.
If your blade guard does a good job of protecting you from the blade even when it's raised up, then that's a great point. I'm just so used to raising the blade only enough to get the job done, which is the safest thing to do if you're *not* using a blade guard. Thanks for the comment! 😄
Really? Really?? The wife is like THAT?? an could not even move her car out the garage long enough for her husband who is making money with these video's to complete one without the car in the background??? Always got to have to that one
It was my choice to have her car in the garage. But I've since bought a new car, and my wife insisted I park it in the garage, and she parks hers outside.
Hi Dan I have built your version of the Cross Cut Half Sled and it has proved to be one of the most useful additions to my saw bench. Many thanks, Phil
Awesome! Thanks for letting me know. 🙂
Thanks for doing this, much appreciated! Getting into woodworking myself and love the down to earth approach and humor. Very surprised for a wormhole extreme reference but happy to see it :)
Awesome - glad you got the StarGate SG1 reference. And you're quite welcome, of course.
Stargate fan? Love it.
I love Stargate! 😄
Hehe, you noticed it too? Wormhole Extreme! It's what I do..
@@elfpimp1 I have seen each episode at least 10 times. I am a press photographer so I have photographed them (the cast) too on the red carpet and other places.
@@sushi8204 That's awesome!
In general, I appreciate hearing your thought processes. Pros and cons of different approaches and why you choose to do things. And not afraid to admit a mistake.
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
As total beginner I have a very small table top saw and I have not seen a cross cut sledge small enough to use on it. But this one will be brilliant. I'm now watching all your videos. I love the fact you admit when you made an error... it makes me feel better. Thanks. I tried to buy something from your Amazon link but they didn't post to the UK. So I subscribed and did a thumbs up. Thank you
Thanks, and I'm glad I could help! I love showing errors, so people can get some ideas of how to deal with them. Steve Ramsey did a couple of videos last week that showed him making mistakes, and I really appreciated knowing he makes the same kinds of goofs that I do. 😄Sorry the Amazon links don't work in the UK - I haven't figured out all the details to make them work. One of these days...
I like it when you record "live". You should do that more often.
Thanks! I'm planning on it for the next video. The problem is that I'm not always very coherent when I talk while working. It worked out well this time, but only time will tell how it goes in the future. 😉
Thanks Dan for the sled videos. It will be extremely helpful for those of us who do not have a saw stop. Gotta protect those fingers!
You're welcome, and obviously, even those of us who have SawStops need all the help we can get. 😏
Threw this together and it's so convenient. It works great, and as a neophyte wood butcher, you did a great job of holding my hand getting through it. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thanks for letting me know! I'm glad I could help. "Wood butcher" made me laugh. 😄
I'd have posted a pic of this, or the full-sled, but evidently that capability/privilege is not afforded to the freebie UA-camrs. Alas... Not that there's anything special about either, you know...new hobby, early projects, a Tom Hanks "Cast Away" moment...Look what I have created!.
@@4refnump As far as I know, UA-cam has never allowed embedded images in comments, and considering the volume they're dealing with, I don't blame them. However, you can always upload your images to an online service, and include links here. Also, there's lots of woodworking websites that have forums where you can post these types of pictures, if you just want to "show off" 😄😉
I built the full sled but small enough to fit my benchtop table saw..it's been a few months now and it's still doing great!
Awesome! Thanks for letting me know. 😄
William NG, would be proud of you for using the five cut method, 😁🛫
LOL, maybe. He might still think I need to do the math. But we're all indebted to him for either coming up with the idea, or popularizing it, that's for sure! 😄
Thanks very much. A total beginner here with a new portable table saw. Bought it like a month ago and still scared to do any cutting on it.
With this video, I'm a step closer of really using it.
Thanks a lot. New sub all the way from North Borneo 👍👍👍
Awesome - glad I could help, and welcome aboard! 😄Make sure you watch my video on kickback - the more you learn, the safer you can be. ua-cam.com/video/ZUZ8hRm7a8g/v-deo.html
I made sure to like and subscribe to your video and channel. Thank you, Dan.
Thanks, and welcome aboard! 👍
I have known I need these and it is high on my next project. Great video!! The production is really impressive. Thanks
Thanks, that means a lot. 😄
Love you’re work
Thanks! I appreciate it! 😄
I thought I saw a lighting problem but then realized it was just the stupid stop flashing as the blade slowed down. Good job Dan.
I saw that too, Tim. But I figured I've spent enough time talking about SawStop-specific stuff to last a lifetime, so I didn't mention it. 😛Thanks for the comment. 😄
Great tut on that half sled, mate. 👍🏽
Looks pretty schmicko. 👌🏽
Thanks! And I'll assume "schmicko" is good. 😛
@@TheNewbieWoodworker you got it, tis an Aussie thing much like when we see something that's seriously awesome "shit hot" gets used quite a lot too! 😉👍🏽
@@SMee67 😂
They say you learn more from mistakes than doing it right. I like the mistakes not being my own, but your's.
You're probably right, but my first thought was "then I should be Einstein!". 😂 Thanks for the comment. 😄
I am going to see the pros and cons of the kickback pawls on mu Sawstop PCS. They don't work very well. Do you have comments about these stupid pawls? I almost never use the blade guard. But lately I have started to. Great video.
Thanks. I think the blade guard or a riving knife is critical to stopping kickback. The blade guard itself can help as well to protect you from wandering too close to the blade. And if you think you never get close to the blade, run a camera for an hour or so while you're working, then check the footage. If you're anything like me, you'll be shocked to see how close you get sometimes. You might notice I haven't mentioned your main question - pawls. Honestly, I've almost never used them.
Hi Dan
Back from our travels, albeit briefly. Off to Tassie in a week. Anyway, the cheap table saw I got for Linda's daughter actually only has a mitre slot on one side, so I can't see if the full sized sled would work. It would only be able to track down the one slot and I doubt it be worth doing. What do you think?
Off topic. We have rain. About an inch in 24 hours. Who would've thought? Rain in Australia. They say that half the fires are out. That means only about 80 in our state. Better than double that and maybe the tennis players will have a better time breathing. Cheers Col
Welcome back. I heard about the rains, and how they're a mixed blessing because of the ash runoff. But I'm glad a lot of the fires are going out! I actually think the sled would probably work OK, even with just one miter slot. Make sure you add the rear support piece, though. ua-cam.com/video/cQINXsn2QBk/v-deo.html
Thanks again. So you reckon go full sized? I think I’m having one of those confused moments that we don’t talk about
@@colrodrick8784 There's no guarantees, but I think a full-sized sled with only one runner will work. It certainly can't hurt to try.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker Ta mate
Very nice. The piece of melamine on the backside of the fence to support the guard past the cut-- that would have to be at least as tall/thick as the thickness of the stock you are cutting, yes? How forgiving is this? Do you have any problems if/when this is mismatched, for example if the melamine was 3/4" thick and the stock was say, a 1" thick board? When does the difference in thicknesses become an issue with binding of the guard on the return?
Yes, there could be some tear-out with the piece not completely supported - it just depends on the size and type of wood. Honestly, I use my full sled for most everything I do. ua-cam.com/video/cQINXsn2QBk/v-deo.html
@@TheNewbieWoodworker My apologies if the question wasn't clear-- not so much a question of tear-out, but rather a question of the blade guard catching on the stock on the return pass if that melamine piece doesn't match its thickness.
@@BetterByThePound1 Yes, when pushing the sled back to its original location, the blade guard can catch, for sure. Not as much with the full version, though.
6:27 Hey Dan, I'm guessing what happened to make the 1st strip perfect and the 2nd strip tight, from the same fence position, is blade deflection on the 2nd one. Some bit of grain in one of the layers had to have had a slight angle to it, just slightly not straight to the cut line, and the wood in that angled grain was of sufficient hardness that it deflected the blade ever so slightly, laterally away from the fence a couple thou, cutting a wider 2nd strip. This didn't happen on the 1st one because either it was from a different piece of plywood, or the same piece but oriented differently, so that this bit of harder angled grain wasn''t in the blade path, or else because your pre-cuts on each end to sneak up on the width got the blade past the harder deflection point when you made the full cut.
That sounds like a great explanation. Thanks! 😄
8:18 That's why we don't stand in line with the blade! 😱
LOL. "Fire!"
nice Dan...
Thanks! 😄
Great tips! Thank you.
Thanks, and you're quite welcome! 😄
I still can't believe you used a scene from Wormhole Extreme! 🤣
Undomesticated equines couldn't keep me from using that clip. 😛
Use silicone spray or sewing machine spray to eliminate friction...makes it so much easier to slide materials about and whilst cutting...
Silicone wreaks havoc with finishes.
I don't know how well silicone interacts with cast iron. But if it works for you, great!
@@TheNewbieWoodworker well ive worked in sawmills for 28 years, and using every and all kinds of wood working machinery, we always used silicone spray, it doesnt affect any metal, if anything if makes it water proof, so if your in a damp enviroment it will prevent any rust occurring too..any thing with a bed like straight line edgers, crosscut saws, bands saws, chopsaws..planers, it makes materials easier to move and so is safer as you dont need any pressure, thet cause undue any accidental movment of material. and all the types of wood, be it hardwood or softwood
@@aministratorgeneral.9298 Thanks for the info!
Love the videos for Newbies. Why didn't you glue the back fence to the sled? You just showed using screws?
Thanks! I usually don't glue things like that, in case I need to change something. But you certainly could glue it down if you wanted to.
The second and third rails were cut from one thicker piece they were probably picked up at the same time making the off cut just slightly wider then the track
That could be. Thanks!
Great sled. Great video. Now go get a silicone ring for use in lieu of your wedding ring while working in the shop.
Thanks! You're the second person to mention the ring this week. I'll have to think about what to do, because I'd never be able to remember to take it off in the shop.
The Newbie Woodworker First you buy it......😎
@@terristroh3965 👍
Made sled and it is great. My guard on my Dewalt rises up and down with the blade. Trying to do half lap joints, the wood couldn't slide under the guard. Any suggestions how to solve this?
Thanks. Sometimes you have to remove the guard, even if you don't want to.
I bought my table saw two years ago and I’m scared to use it to cross cut cause my table saw is a ryobi and it only has one track 😢. So could I make the half sled for cross cut ???
Yes, the half-sled would work fine. You can also make a standard sled using only one runner. See ua-cam.com/video/b-65Bs5Yi0w/v-deo.html
Hi Dan, Great sled. Not sure if it would work for my saw as I can't remember if it has the drop-down wings as it has sat on the shelf since I've had the saw, OOPS!! Have a great Christmas and New Year with your family and friends. Cheers, Huw
😂Thanks, Huw, and you too!
It was the dust in the slots that caused the runners to get stuck
Quite possible.
Where can I purchase the Big Horn square set?
I think they're made by Kaufhof now (and maybe always were). Here's a link: amzn.to/2E8K8HN
Is it just me or is that plywood end near the fence warped? 2:30 looks like it has a shadow from not being flat...
Good eye - the plywood is slightly warped. I don't *think* it's warped enough to matter, especially once the fence is attached. But time will tell. 😄
What if the build the sled to fit beyond the blade, then use a "drop into position" method over the blade before you start your job that would give adequate strength..
I assume you're talking about the full sled. That's a good idea, but it requires a couple of things. First, you have to be able to remove the guard part itself, and I'm not sure all blade guards are built that way. And secondly, the metal part of the guard has to not have anything sticking out of it. If you watch around 3:43, you'll see a post sticking out of the metal part, right behind where the plastic guard attaches. That would get in the way. Of course, if you happen to notice in other shots, I took an angle grinder to those posts, so your idea actually would work for me.
In the long run, I don't think it's necessary to have the additional support you're talking about, but I think it's a great idea, and I'll see if I can work that into the build video somehow. Thanks! 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker yes,allowing for enough movement to move beyond the blade on the rear..and alowing for the guard.
@@aministratorgeneral.9298 Got it.
Thanks for addressing the cawls, oops, pawls.
Do you mean "anti-kickback pawls"? If so, I'm guessing you're being facetious?
Not being facetious, Dan. After watching your first sled video using the guard, I knew it wouldn't work on mine given the pawls :/
Thanks for following up with this video. Your effort to design a sled, and produce a video to share are much appreciated from this newer newbie!
@@anneoreilly4900 Thanks. I still feel like I'm missing something, so let me add this: I don't use the anti-kickback pawls, and I honestly don't think they're necessary if you're using a riving knife or blade guard. (But of course you have to do what you feel is safest, and I'm just some guy on the internet, etc. 😄) With my blade guard, there are two posts that stick out of the side of the metal part of the blade guard, for the pawls to rest, and they get in the way of using a push stick. So I used an angle grinder and removed them. Don't know if that helps or not. 😄
☺ appreciate the response!
I'm thinking your little pieces that drop down act like pawls. I can adapt that idea for my, almost as old as me, Craftsman.
@@anneoreilly4900 No problem - I like talking about this kind of stuff. 🙂Pawls are designed to grab the stock and sink their teeth into it, if the stock is in the process of being kicked back. But to me, they just get in the way, and and they can damage soft wood. If you haven't seen my video on kickback, you should watch it - some people find it scary, but I think understanding kickback is the best way to avoid it. ua-cam.com/video/ZUZ8hRm7a8g/v-deo.html
@1:38 uh oh. My nerd is about to show here.. Wormhole Extreme!!
YES! Someone finally got the reference! 😂After our last conversation, it shouldn't surprise me it was you. 😄
@@TheNewbieWoodworker lol!! Get back to that new video! ! 😆
@@TheNewbieWoodworker oh, and I'm binge watching your channel on anything I think in may build.
@@TheNewbieWoodworker I forgot to mention. If you look at my avatar, that's really me, with a real rifle, in real multicam,,in real armor with my K9 partner in Afghanistan. . I call it my Col. Jack O'Neal look..
Oh,, and the eyepro are Wiley X's. SG-1's
What was the comment about motorcyclists? Did you know I was watching the Moto GP whilst viewing your video?
LOL. If I could foresee the future that precisely, I'd, well, considering the way the world is right now, I'm glad I didn't know what was coming.
I don't like running my saw without the blade guard. When doing dados I don't have a choice.
That's certainly true.
It the full sled gets too weak, you will have a left half sled and a right half sled (no twix pun intended).
Very true. Fortunately, mine has held together quite nicely. 😄
I hate using a blade guard, but I have to admit, this sled buggers up my excuse for not using it!
I'm with you, and if I hadn't been so accident-prone in recent months, I still wouldn't use it. But now, I sort-of like the safer feeling it gives me. Still, I wouldn't use it if I didn't need it.
There are lots of videos on this subject, I found this one confusing, too many mistakes made during filming were distracting
Thanks for being honest and leaving a comment instead of just a thumbs down.
Ummmm....
Wouldn't the blade not need to go so far past the back (Toward the operator) if it was raised higher? It's a geometry thing. The circle of the blade intersecting the rectangle of the wood. The rectangle moves along a line representing the table top. The upper corner represents the point at which the wood is cut completely through. The intersection of the circle with the line gets closer to the front face of the rectangle which means it cuts less of the sled as the blade is raised.
If your blade guard does a good job of protecting you from the blade even when it's raised up, then that's a great point. I'm just so used to raising the blade only enough to get the job done, which is the safest thing to do if you're *not* using a blade guard. Thanks for the comment! 😄
Really? Really??
The wife is like THAT?? an could not even move her car out the garage long enough for her husband who is making money with these video's to complete one without the car in the background???
Always got to have to that one
It was my choice to have her car in the garage. But I've since bought a new car, and my wife insisted I park it in the garage, and she parks hers outside.
How about building a shooting board?
Probably not, but thanks for the suggestion.
Too much talk