Dom, you have the bones of how to refinish. I know it's tough to find correct info on something so few people do for a living. Good on ya for giving it a go! It's not the easiest thing to attempt. I've made a living of refinishing for the last 40 years. 1) stripper yes, heat gun no. 2) stripper till that bubbling is everywhere(as many coats as it takes). If you can apply it on a horizontal surface do it, works better. 3) lacquer thinners or acetone after stripper to wash the stripper off. 4) water to wash the lacquer thinners off and break the seal of the previous finish. 5) Do not sand the finish off with anything less than 100 grit(especially if you've never done this before). 120 then 150 to prepare for finish. 6) bristle brush, not synthetic brush(they are black not white and not plastic) 7) thin your finish no more than 25% for sealer. And sand the sealer with 320 or higher. 8) thin the top coat, no more than 10%. I would use it straight out of the can for finish. If your hands are cold its to cold to apply a finish. Hope this helps for future refinishing projects. You should look at reading books for audible, I love your narration and overall videos. Thanks, keep up the good work!
I feel as if I’ve learned more from the feedback from this one video than just about any other I’ve ever made. Appreciate you taking the time to share your pearls of wisdom with us 🙏🏼☺️
Dom, NO, NO. Steel wool .. NOoooooooo. Steel wool doesn't belong within miles of a marina, much less anywhere near a boat. It sheds tiny pieces of steel, smaller than you can see and then RUSTS!. OMG it's so hard to clean because the rust will imbed into fiberglass. You can get bronze wool instead. I enjoy your vids very much. Keep it up. I learn right beside you.
Hi Dom,love the vids,a few tips as I do boat restoration as a living. Try not to use a mouse sander as it will leave swirl marks which will show up with a gloss varnish better to use a heat gun with a carbide scraper and sand with the grain from 180 grit down to 400,if your really fussy wet and dry between each coat so that your filling all the grain and when it's all flat a very thin finishing coat,same applies to painting. You can do the same with your veneer but be careful to just take of the varnish and not to burn the wood.if you want to use a stripper go to an automotive store and get the stripper they use on cars,much much better than b.and q stuff.Hope to see you on the water sometime.
After 15 years of pampering my yacht’s varnished surfaces I finally stripped it all off and used wood stain. It nourishes the wood, protects it and is less time consuming to keep ship shape as it’s Matt finish. Some use teak oil but I find that is just as laborious as varnish. Stain is my preference every time.
I went this way then back to varnish because the oil wasn’t tough enough and needed constant re coating , just a few months outdoors and the oil ( Dutch superior ) was failing badly
Hi Dominic. When varnishing, it is generally recommended that all the brush strokes should be in one direction, not back and forth as you were doing. The reason for this is to minimize the risk of trapping air bubbles in the varnish. Probably not an issue with varnished thinned down 50%, but will be once you are using neat varnish.
Good job so far. The varnish you are using, Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss, doesn't require sanding between coats; however, I would recommend sanding after about the 4th coat in order level it and again before the final coat to clean things up to get the top coat perfect. Also, I would wipe the boards with alcohol between coats to clean them off and always, always use a tack cloth to pick up the dust/bits before you put a coat of varnish on anything.
Just finished binge watching your entire series since you bought the boat. Really enjoyed the vlog! Excellent job narrating and showing your adventures. Found your channel while watching “Sail Life”. If I was a bit younger ,would have loved to do what your doing, instead I’ll live vicariously through you guys if you don’t mind. p.s., my dog Trooper loves seeing Hank. Happy trails to you all, be safe!
Our 30 year old Rival Bowman has suffered badly from damp ( serious rain water ingress due to dodgy teak deck replacement in the Med.) and lots of the woodwork needs some serious love. Trouble is, we like to use her as soon as the weather is half decent.
A cabinet scraper (or card scraper) would be your friend for the stripping, with or without chemical stripper. Rag n Bone Brown will have some content that would help, including veneer repairs.
I see you are working in Chatham have you managed to take a trip to the Historic dockyards, so much history including the birth place of HMS Victory. You may have picked up a few varnishing tips there lol.
Most good varnish jobs require just a bit of sanding with very fine wet/dry sanding paper. During the first couple of coats the wood lifts tiny wood grain ends and then hardens in the varnish. This should be apparent, but all you have to do is swipe the varnish in a small area with the fine paper and compare with your hand. If there is a difference, you'll know it. When it's no longer necessary to sand, you'll know it, too. Adding more varnish over the top will not hide it. I'm not reading all the other advice, but I do want to present an argument for a very fine (expensive) natural bristle varnish brush. It's worth it's weight in gold. My one varnish brush is 50 years old and still as good as new, and has never shed a hair. Also if you want a satin finish, make satin the last coat and use gloss all the rest.
Appreciate you taking the time to share some of your insights. Think I’m going to do some light sanding between the other coats, I’d like the finish to be as good as I can get it, considering how much work is involved 🙏🏼😬
Hi, Nice video, some remarks: I always use dust remove rags, whitch take allmost all dust away. Sanding in between with P400 gives a much better end result. Just a light touching with the paper is enough, and it’s only taking a few minutes. Start varnishing with the area that is futher away from your body, this avoids varnish drops and dust in your finished work. Start with cleaning the brush first by using it on a clean paper or board. Work in dust free room if possible. Use a scraper with rounded edges to avoid scrathes in the vineer wood. Keep up the good work. Regards Wim
It’s called tack cloth, a very tacky rag that takes all dust away, you cn find them in every good painting shop. Oftend used in the car painting industry as well.
The varnishing is looking pretty good so far. 😃 I’ve always thought of sanding in between coats to denib , ie remove any dust etc that may make the surface uneven. Though I suspect the important thing here is to gradually build up a good covering from many thin layers . 😃🍻
Careful with your Hoover Dom. That’s methylene chloride mixed with industrial methylated spirits 99%. Strong enough to dissolve your hoover innards. Best to sweep up what you can and use the VC for the fine bits.
Amazing work buddy and I'm sure it's going to look amazing when done. The only thing I would of done is to put plastic sheeting over the table and seating saves hours of heartache scrubbing cushions with varnish splash marks .......😉
Excellent winter care video Dom. Thank goodness Captain Carly is far too young to be considered a midling aged woman- you got away with that one shipmate 😉😉⛵. Looking forward to seeing you back out on the water.
Hi Dominic, enjoyed episode, happened to look at your episode regarding attempted burglary. Just a thought do you have cctv on board. We have just fitted Reolink cctv camera with independent small solar panel. Comes with app so able to watch live from mobile. Also has Siren, 128gb sd card to record when sensor is triggered & push notifications & microphone. Downside needs WiFi connection which we have where boat is moored most marina's have WiFi. Worth a look cost £73 on amazon has been brilliant. All the Best Len👍
I had the same issue of varnishing and temperature when I was restoring my first boat. Well worth looking at the benefits of Coelan. It's a polyurethane wood coating, lasts for years, breathable, impact resistant and you can wack the stuff on down to 5 degrees. Bloody expensive, but well worth it, and gleams like epoxy. Far too late now though given this post is likely after you've already finished the varnishing by now. I do like epifanes for internal woodwork if its nice and warm. currently also renovating trims and loving morrells spray lacquer (same brand that Westerly used originally on the teak-faced ply and trims) and that's bloody good stuff too - and no brush marks 🙂
Our sailing club asked me to polish 14 of our club tables.I did it over 2 winters. I stripped them down to bare wood I stained them with rustins mahogany stain- You need not do this- & applied 2-3 coats of Sadolins PV67 clear gloss varnish.( tops 3 cts legs etc 2 cts) That was 5 years ago & they are still as good as when I did them.That is in a sailing club where they get lots ofabuse. In my joinery works I used to use it on laboratory work tops etc. I made the oak spiral stair case in my house & coated it in PV67 & it has only been overcoated once since 2001 with satin PV67. I suggest that if you do strip the saloon table you try it. You will find it wears brilliantly & is better than all your coats of varnish. You can apply with a roller & tip it off with a brush if you are quick. It dries quickly as well. You might end up using it on other places inside the cabin
I had the same poor results with varnish stripper...a complete waste of money. Like you, switched to a sander and it was a lot faster! Glad you got that horrible job out of the way
Seems to be the case that it’s of people are suggesting it’s simply a numbers game and you have to keep re-applying it and the stripper progressively gets more effective. I still have some left so will perhaps try that next time.
Varnishing methods is like anchor choices😱 Anyway, when varnishing keep a wet edge , done ever brush anything but the wet edge, 2 strokes over material only. Top quality brush 'badger hair' makes a difference as does the brush care. You can lightly sand off the dust nib unless you are working in a dust free environment . Clean with fresh tack cloth. Stripper generally should be applied thick and just apply , do not brush in just put it on an leave , thick. But usually you just do what you can unless you are being paid! Cheers Warren Elizabeth Whitman wrote the definitive book on varnishing......
The companion way looks good. You should be proud of yourself. Btw, heat guns remove old varnish very well. No need for chemicals or respirators. Yeah and you probably should have worn one of those. Especially working in small confined spaces.
Personally I’d go the oil path and not the lacquer one. A fat oil (like raw linseed oil) is easy to apply every now and then. And, it doesn’t require stripping and dry sanding. Wetsanding
Have you tried Strypit? It seems to be so much better than other strippers maybe because it is old fashioned. I very gingerly stripped my Moody 31 table (with thin veneer) and it worked beautifully. I gently dragged off the soft pickled varnish with a Stanley blade leaving bare wood. This was wiped with white spirits (not water) and varnished with excellent results. I had tried other strippers on a spare piece of wood and the results were like yours, very slow and frustrating.
Great video I can not say much about professional technique, but that looks about how I do it. I sand every other coat to even the surface. Many thin coats makes the best look over 1 thick one. Of course over here across the pond we call that scotch pad either a brillow pad or a piece of steel wool. It works miracles on stuff like that. Now, we are excited about the direction you are taking the channel. We sail the Pacific Northwest and love it. I think to many people do not appreciate places that are not the tropics. Some of your adventures have made us wonder if we do not want to fly over and spend a season sailing to some of the places you have shown. We also are all about gathering a great seafood meal from the waters around us. That and home made wines make evenings watching a sunset the best.
This whole endeavour keeps unfolding in ways that we never expected it to but we feel as if we’re in a super lucky situation where we can hopefully build something that’s of use to others, long after we’ve finished doing what we’re doing. ☺️🙏🏼
I thought the same thing. Just sand it with 320 grit and go over it with new varnish. The existing varnish hasn't "failed", it just needs freshened up.
@@CadohaAdventures Good point, I am sure we can't see all those imperfections on the video....in person, it is always worse. Looks like you are getting some good results!! I use Epifanes on my boat as well and fairly pleased with it.
I would be a bit nervous filling a small enclosed space with solvent fumes while a stove is creating heat with an open flame... no idea how close or far from any explosive fume/air mix you would get, but maybe worth researching before diving in?
@@CadohaAdventures It looked like the wood stove was out to me, hence the diesel heater and that won't pose an issue because the combustion is isolated from interior space.
A question for everyone… When you’re dealing with really thin veneer, that’s been ratted up on the edges and still looks poor, wouldn’t it be easier to send it right down and then apply a very thin new veneer to make it look great? Is this process too expensive? Please let me know as I’m curious.
Quick answer to your question is veneer is glued to the substrate(plywood or mdf) using a very large heated press to prevent bubbling in the surface. Not possible to reveneer and get a surface that will last. Don't send through veneer whenever possible.
I’ve always struggled to get a uniform varnish removal with the heat hun. I once did the forward sole with a heat gun and a razor blade and that did come up quite well, but when I tried to replicate it on the rest of the forward cabin it all ended up a bit patchy for me 😕
It's a shame you couldn't use a warm workshop close by let the dog see the rabbit so to speak ....also I believe there is various types of mix and match wood dyes ( like professionals use when they want an exact colour match for repairing gelcoat damage around different parts of the boat )......these wood dyes and specialist wood putty would make the damaged veneer invisible......
I feel like you’d need more artistic talent than I have to make the kinds of veneer damage we have disappear with a putty, but that may just be the next line of UA-cam study rabbit hole videos I head down 😂
Personally, I would have gone down another route and I'm sure all the purists will shout me down. Anyway, here goes for nothing... for the steps which are wood and will get high traffic and lots of water, I would've stripped off the varnish and then done two coats of epoxy. This soaks into the wood making it both durable and stops water ingress. Then a couple of coats of varnish on top and you have a great finish. Might also be the go for the washboard to stop further water damage, but I've never tried epoxy on a veneer.
Hello there people. I have only just started watching the film, however in my person experience of 10 years in the motor trade and 50% less in the furniture trade, (reproduction antiques) including French polishing etc. now in the motor trade yes I would on every day awful cars like the infamous montage or the mini metro even as terrible as the Austin maestro 🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤮 I worked on production cars but mostly on restoring cars such as Aston martins-Db 5 or 6, or vantage plus many more antique cars. Stripping an Aston Martin of its paint of say a million coats, slight exaggeration there but I would normal lay on at least six coats of paint stripper, the first would normally do nothing, the key then was not to let the paint stripper be absorbed by the materials you were trying to remove, ie the layers of paint, primer etc. after laying down many coats of paint stripper the paint and all coats would peel of so easily with no elbow grease. So I think if you apply say two to three coats paint stripper consecutively then scraping would become easy, remember the first coat even on your boat does nothing to penetrate the layers of varnish, also note that paint stripper of today is not like the paint stripper I used in the motor trade. years ago, 25 years ago to be accurate. Bear in mind many coats on top of each other releases nasty vapours for you and the lovely Carly and of course the manager Hank. So no sparky type things going on during stripping, the wood that is, note for dom there. May be todays stripper is not so toxic and does not produce vapour ? Hoops this helps. Although you have finished it now so I will,just shut up rambling. Lo. 😅
So working for Rigit, Chatham & Rigit Southampton and moored next to work in Southampton sort of belies the whole off-grid ethos a bit surely? And...lucky you, you get all the benefits of a yard, tools, materials and suppliers. Quite far removed from the idyllic mission statement and adventuring cosiness of UA-cam Sailing Cadoha wouldn't you say? I'm disappointed.
@@CadohaAdventures You miss the point. The impression of off-grid adventurers doesn't quite match the reality. I've been a little bit sceptical of your channel for a while as you know. Far too many freebies, beanies, marketing and samples and a lot of rather trite commentary while not actually having a goal. Comfortably off twee couple pretending to be far more adventurous than they are....just isn't right. I'm clearly not disappointed by anyone earning a living. Just feel as though you might be trying to pull the wool over our eyes. Just saying....
@@Edward-uf8mi I’m not sure how long you’ve been watching for but us working regular jobs for half the year and then trying to spend the other half of the year living as off-grid as we can is hardly new information. I don’t see how working 15 hours a day, seven days a week, for half the year is somehow something you see as some kind of confidence job, but I guess we all have our own subjective view of life and the world. I may not be the most adventurous person in the world either, I guess it’s a relative term, I mean I did used to prize fight internationally and some would say fighting on TV in Thailand in my early 20’s was a bit of an adventure? Sailing across the bay of biscay for the first time was fairly exciting, but I won’t lie, it didn’t feel quite as high octane as locking myself in a cage to fight another man in front of thousands of people, but again I guess it’s all subjective. If you’d like to see us live off-grid full time then you’re more than welcome to fill the financial gap that not working in winter would create. Be the change you want to see in the world, Edward 👌🏼😬
@@CadohaAdventures Extraordinary delusions of heroism and adventure. Kick boxing and cage fighting might signify a number of things, not all of them impressive personality traits. I already do the change I want to see in the world pretty successfully thanks. No hyperbole or silly mission statements. And I'll leave you to get on with what you do.
@@Edward-uf8mi well that is always the other option, Eddie, just don’t watch whatever it is you don’t enjoy viewing. It’s not rocket science, old sport.
![Boat lift out [DIY Failure!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HrwwXOVZz5E/mqdefault.jpg)
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Dom, you have the bones of how to refinish. I know it's tough to find correct info on something so few people do for a living. Good on ya for giving it a go! It's not the easiest thing to attempt. I've made a living of refinishing for the last 40 years. 1) stripper yes, heat gun no. 2) stripper till that bubbling is everywhere(as many coats as it takes). If you can apply it on a horizontal surface do it, works better. 3) lacquer thinners or acetone after stripper to wash the stripper off. 4) water to wash the lacquer thinners off and break the seal of the previous finish. 5) Do not sand the finish off with anything less than 100 grit(especially if you've never done this before). 120 then 150 to prepare for finish. 6) bristle brush, not synthetic brush(they are black not white and not plastic) 7) thin your finish no more than 25% for sealer. And sand the sealer with 320 or higher. 8) thin the top coat, no more than 10%. I would use it straight out of the can for finish. If your hands are cold its to cold to apply a finish. Hope this helps for future refinishing projects. You should look at reading books for audible, I love your narration and overall videos. Thanks, keep up the good work!
I feel as if I’ve learned more from the feedback from this one video than just about any other I’ve ever made.
Appreciate you taking the time to share your pearls of wisdom with us 🙏🏼☺️
Dom, NO, NO. Steel wool .. NOoooooooo. Steel wool doesn't belong within miles of a marina, much less anywhere near a boat. It sheds tiny pieces of steel, smaller than you can see and then RUSTS!. OMG it's so hard to clean because the rust will imbed into fiberglass. You can get bronze wool instead. I enjoy your vids very much. Keep it up. I learn right beside you.
That “BEFORE” wood looks pretty darn good to me!
Nice video. A friend advised me to grind the edges of the scraper and round them off to stop it digging in to the wood.
That sounds like a great bit of advice, appreciate it 👌🏼
Heat gun is a most magical scraper. Tested it many times. Super fast, super clean, and super gentle to the wood.
Agreed. a variety of scraper s is useful
If you take clear painters plastic and lay it over the flat area where you apply it ,it will keep it from evaporating or dry out and work better.
Hi Dom,love the vids,a few tips as I do boat restoration as a living. Try not to use a mouse sander as it will leave swirl marks which will show up with a gloss varnish better to use a heat gun with a carbide scraper and sand with the grain from 180 grit down to 400,if your really fussy wet and dry between each coat so that your filling all the grain and when it's all flat a very thin finishing coat,same applies to painting. You can do the same with your veneer but be careful to just take of the varnish and not to burn the wood.if you want to use a stripper go to an automotive store and get the stripper they use on cars,much much better than b.and q stuff.Hope to see you on the water sometime.
Hello Elizabeth, how are you doing today, hope you’re fine and safe from the Virus??
Wow you’d go all the way down to 400? There was me thinking 120 was fine!
Appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise with us all 🙏🏼🙏🏼☺️
I really enjoy your style of narration and infectious enthusiasm…
After 15 years of pampering my yacht’s varnished surfaces I finally stripped it all off and used wood stain. It nourishes the wood, protects it and is less time consuming to keep ship shape as it’s Matt finish. Some use teak oil but I find that is just as laborious as varnish. Stain is my preference every time.
I gave serious consideration to taking the varnish off and just perpetually teak oiling the woodwork.
I went this way then back to varnish because the oil wasn’t tough enough and needed constant re coating , just a few months outdoors and the oil ( Dutch superior ) was failing badly
Hi Dominic. When varnishing, it is generally recommended that all the brush strokes should be in one direction, not back and forth as you were doing. The reason for this is to minimize the risk of trapping air bubbles in the varnish. Probably not an issue with varnished thinned down 50%, but will be once you are using neat varnish.
You’re doing it exactly how I would…. so the comments are brilliant! Learning heaps from the Cadoha hive mind!
I feel as if I’ve learned more from this videos comments section than just about any other video I’ve ever put up! 😬🙏🏼
Nice vlog again. Epifanes first layer indeed with (up to 50%) mix to let it soak into the wood.
Good job so far. The varnish you are using, Epifanes Wood Finish Gloss, doesn't require sanding between coats; however, I would recommend sanding after about the 4th coat in order level it and again before the final coat to clean things up to get the top coat perfect. Also, I would wipe the boards with alcohol between coats to clean them off and always, always use a tack cloth to pick up the dust/bits before you put a coat of varnish on anything.
Just finished binge watching your entire series since you bought the boat. Really enjoyed the vlog! Excellent job narrating and showing your adventures. Found your channel while watching “Sail Life”. If I was a bit younger ,would have loved to do what your doing, instead I’ll live vicariously through you guys if you don’t mind. p.s., my dog Trooper loves seeing Hank. Happy trails to you all, be safe!
Our 30 year old Rival Bowman has suffered badly from damp ( serious rain water ingress due to dodgy teak deck replacement in the Med.) and lots of the woodwork needs some serious love. Trouble is, we like to use her as soon as the weather is half decent.
A cabinet scraper (or card scraper) would be your friend for the stripping, with or without chemical stripper. Rag n Bone Brown will have some content that would help, including veneer repairs.
Nice editing my friend!
Appreciate it, always trying to make each one a little better than the last, not sure I always manage it, but that's the goal 👍🏽
I see you are working in Chatham have you managed to take a trip to the Historic dockyards, so much history including the birth place of HMS Victory. You may have picked up a few varnishing tips there lol.
Most good varnish jobs require just a bit of sanding with very fine wet/dry sanding paper. During the first couple of coats the wood lifts tiny wood grain ends and then hardens in the varnish. This should be apparent, but all you have to do is swipe the varnish in a small area with the fine paper and compare with your hand. If there is a difference, you'll know it. When it's no longer necessary to sand, you'll know it, too. Adding more varnish over the top will not hide it. I'm not reading all the other advice, but I do want to present an argument for a very fine (expensive) natural bristle varnish brush. It's worth it's weight in gold. My one varnish brush is 50 years old and still as good as new, and has never shed a hair. Also if you want a satin finish, make satin the last coat and use gloss all the rest.
Appreciate you taking the time to share some of your insights. Think I’m going to do some light sanding between the other coats, I’d like the finish to be as good as I can get it, considering how much work is involved 🙏🏼😬
Good job pal, Carlotta is more like the Forth Rail Bridge, never ending varnishing..
It’s a labour of love, right?!….. right?
I wonder if rounding off the edges of the scraper would help prevent gouging the wood.
An old trick.
Hi, Nice video, some remarks:
I always use dust remove rags, whitch take allmost all dust away.
Sanding in between with P400 gives a much better end result. Just a light touching with the paper is enough, and it’s only taking a few minutes. Start varnishing with the area that is futher away from your body, this avoids varnish drops and dust in your finished work. Start with cleaning the brush first by using it on a clean paper or board. Work in dust free room if possible.
Use a scraper with rounded edges to avoid scrathes in the vineer wood.
Keep up the good work.
Regards
Wim
When you say dust removal rags, are you talking about something like micro fibre cloths?
It’s called tack cloth, a very tacky rag that takes all dust away, you cn find them in every good painting shop. Oftend used in the car painting industry as well.
The varnishing is looking pretty good so far. 😃 I’ve always thought of sanding in between coats to denib , ie remove any dust etc that may make the surface uneven. Though I suspect the important thing here is to gradually build up a good covering from many thin layers . 😃🍻
I think I am going to sand a little bit between coats for exactly that reason.
Careful with your Hoover Dom. That’s methylene chloride mixed with industrial methylated spirits 99%. Strong enough to dissolve your hoover innards. Best to sweep up what you can and use the VC for the fine bits.
Looks like a really good brush!
Amazing work buddy and I'm sure it's going to look amazing when done.
The only thing I would of done is to put plastic sheeting over the table and seating saves hours of heartache scrubbing cushions with varnish splash marks .......😉
Excellent winter care video Dom. Thank goodness Captain Carly is far too young to be considered a midling aged woman- you got away with that one shipmate 😉😉⛵. Looking forward to seeing you back out on the water.
Just me that’s getting close to middling age and lucky enough to have such a young, fit captain taking care of us all ☺️🙏🏼
alot of work looking good so far....i would have turned the heater off missed mr hank hope hes doing well for the winter
Hi, were all awaiting the Admiral and Captains Inspection ? Best of luck , every man is expected ????????🙃🤔🤐✌
Hi Dominic, enjoyed episode, happened to look at your episode regarding attempted burglary. Just a thought do you have cctv on board. We have just fitted Reolink cctv camera with independent small solar panel. Comes with app so able to watch live from mobile. Also has Siren, 128gb sd card to record when sensor is triggered & push notifications & microphone. Downside needs WiFi connection which we have where boat is moored most marina's have WiFi. Worth a look cost £73 on amazon has been brilliant. All the Best Len👍
I had the same issue of varnishing and temperature when I was restoring my first boat. Well worth looking at the benefits of Coelan. It's a polyurethane wood coating, lasts for years, breathable, impact resistant and you can wack the stuff on down to 5 degrees. Bloody expensive, but well worth it, and gleams like epoxy. Far too late now though given this post is likely after you've already finished the varnishing by now. I do like epifanes for internal woodwork if its nice and warm. currently also renovating trims and loving morrells spray lacquer (same brand that Westerly used originally on the teak-faced ply and trims) and that's bloody good stuff too - and no brush marks 🙂
a little comment for the algorithm💖
Thank you kindly 🙏🏼☺️
Was Carly away? I can't believe she would have been happy with you varnishing over the soft furnishings! :)
Our sailing club asked me to polish 14 of our club tables.I did it over 2 winters. I stripped them down to bare wood I stained them with rustins mahogany stain- You need not do this- & applied 2-3 coats of Sadolins PV67 clear gloss varnish.( tops 3 cts legs etc 2 cts) That was 5 years ago & they are still as good as when I did them.That is in a sailing club where they get lots ofabuse.
In my joinery works I used to use it on laboratory work tops etc.
I made the oak spiral stair case in my house & coated it in PV67 & it has only been overcoated once since 2001 with satin PV67. I suggest that if you do strip the saloon table you try it. You will find it wears brilliantly & is better than all your coats of varnish. You can apply with a roller & tip it off with a brush if you are quick. It dries quickly as well. You might end up using it on other places inside the cabin
I had the same poor results with varnish stripper...a complete waste of money. Like you, switched to a sander and it was a lot faster! Glad you got that horrible job out of the way
Seems to be the case that it’s of people are suggesting it’s simply a numbers game and you have to keep re-applying it and the stripper progressively gets more effective.
I still have some left so will perhaps try that next time.
Varnishing methods is like anchor choices😱
Anyway, when varnishing keep a wet edge , done ever brush anything but the wet edge, 2 strokes over material only.
Top quality brush 'badger hair' makes a difference as does the brush care.
You can lightly sand off the dust nib unless you are working in a dust free environment . Clean with fresh tack cloth.
Stripper generally should be applied thick and just apply , do not brush in just put it on an leave , thick.
But usually you just do what you can unless you are being paid!
Cheers Warren
Elizabeth Whitman wrote the definitive book on varnishing......
On the solid wood bits, you may want to try removing varnish with heat gun then scrape, it is more fun than paint stripper, and have yet to burn wood.
super supersonic.......missing Carley btw.x....................................er o yea and Hankyxx
There will be plenty of the two stars of the channel in the very next video 🙏🏼😬
The companion way looks good. You should be proud of yourself. Btw, heat guns remove old varnish very well. No need for chemicals or respirators. Yeah and you probably should have worn one of those. Especially working in small confined spaces.
Also eye protection as the paint stripper and eys are not compatible.
One thing you can do on your scraper to avoid gauging, is to round the corners.
Personally I’d go the oil path and not the lacquer one. A fat oil (like raw linseed oil) is easy to apply every now and then. And, it doesn’t require stripping and dry sanding.
Wetsanding
Have you tried Strypit? It seems to be so much better than other strippers maybe because it is old fashioned. I very gingerly stripped my Moody 31 table (with thin veneer) and it worked beautifully. I gently dragged off the soft pickled varnish with a Stanley blade leaving bare wood. This was wiped with white spirits (not water) and varnished with excellent results. I had tried other strippers on a spare piece of wood and the results were like yours, very slow and frustrating.
Heat gun matey… done wonder on our Najad👍⛵️⚓️
Lots of people chiming in with the same feedback, although I’ve had mixed results with them, perhaps I need to give them a re-visit. 😬
Great video
I can not say much about professional technique, but that looks about how I do it. I sand every other coat to even the surface. Many thin coats makes the best look over 1 thick one. Of course over here across the pond we call that scotch pad either a brillow pad or a piece of steel wool. It works miracles on stuff like that.
Now, we are excited about the direction you are taking the channel. We sail the Pacific Northwest and love it. I think to many people do not appreciate places that are not the tropics. Some of your adventures have made us wonder if we do not want to fly over and spend a season sailing to some of the places you have shown. We also are all about gathering a great seafood meal from the waters around us. That and home made wines make evenings watching a sunset the best.
This whole endeavour keeps unfolding in ways that we never expected it to but we feel as if we’re in a super lucky situation where we can hopefully build something that’s of use to others, long after we’ve finished doing what we’re doing. ☺️🙏🏼
Why are you taking the existing sound varnish off?
I thought the same thing. Just sand it with 320 grit and go over it with new varnish. The existing varnish hasn't "failed", it just needs freshened up.
There were chips and scratches all over it so thought best to start again.
@@CadohaAdventures Good point, I am sure we can't see all those imperfections on the video....in person, it is always worse. Looks like you are getting some good results!! I use Epifanes on my boat as well and fairly pleased with it.
I would be a bit nervous filling a small enclosed space with solvent fumes while a stove is creating heat with an open flame... no idea how close or far from any explosive fume/air mix you would get, but maybe worth researching before diving in?
Fair, good point 👌🏼
@@CadohaAdventures It looked like the wood stove was out to me, hence the diesel heater and that won't pose an issue because the combustion is isolated from interior space.
Yea Life in a Nutshell exploded his boat with degreaser fumes
A question for everyone… When you’re dealing with really thin veneer, that’s been ratted up on the edges and still looks poor, wouldn’t it be easier to send it right down and then apply a very thin new veneer to make it look great? Is this process too expensive? Please let me know as I’m curious.
Quick answer to your question is veneer is glued to the substrate(plywood or mdf) using a very large heated press to prevent bubbling in the surface. Not possible to reveneer and get a surface that will last. Don't send through veneer whenever possible.
I'm cringing, but rock on.
If you're wearing a toque (wool hat, beanie ) and a sweatshirt to varnish then it's too cold. Wait till spring, unless you're really bored.
I think it was just that most of the jobs that need doing involved being outside of the boat, preferably in the dry and not freezing 🥶
Consider a heat gun vs stripper in the future. Easier to control and a very clean result.
I’ve always struggled to get a uniform varnish removal with the heat hun. I once did the forward sole with a heat gun and a razor blade and that did come up quite well, but when I tried to replicate it on the rest of the forward cabin it all ended up a bit patchy for me 😕
It's a shame you couldn't use a warm workshop close by let the dog see the rabbit so to speak ....also I believe there is various types of mix and match wood dyes ( like professionals use when they want an exact colour match for repairing gelcoat damage around different parts of the boat )......these wood dyes and specialist wood putty would make the damaged veneer invisible......
I feel like you’d need more artistic talent than I have to make the kinds of veneer damage we have disappear with a putty, but that may just be the next line of UA-cam study rabbit hole videos I head down 😂
Scotchbrite are the green pads for dishes etc what you had is wirewool also good for lighting fires with a 9v battery to get it smouldering.
Personally, I would have gone down another route and I'm sure all the purists will shout me down. Anyway, here goes for nothing... for the steps which are wood and will get high traffic and lots of water, I would've stripped off the varnish and then done two coats of epoxy. This soaks into the wood making it both durable and stops water ingress. Then a couple of coats of varnish on top and you have a great finish. Might also be the go for the washboard to stop further water damage, but I've never tried epoxy on a veneer.
Sanding. Again, use Respirator!!!!! That varnish dust is going into your lungs.
Carly told me off too 🥹
your Thumbnails are getting hard to spot :(
been looking at it for 5 hours, and did not realize it was you
Hello there people. I have only just started watching the film, however in my person experience of 10 years in the motor trade and 50% less in the furniture trade, (reproduction antiques) including French polishing etc. now in the motor trade yes I would on every day awful cars like the infamous montage or the mini metro even as terrible as the Austin maestro 🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤢🤮 I worked on production cars but mostly on restoring cars such as Aston martins-Db 5 or 6, or vantage plus many more antique cars. Stripping an Aston Martin of its paint of say a million coats, slight exaggeration there but I would normal lay on at least six coats of paint stripper, the first would normally do nothing, the key then was not to let the paint stripper be absorbed by the materials you were trying to remove, ie the layers of paint, primer etc. after laying down many coats of paint stripper the paint and all coats would peel of so easily with no elbow grease.
So I think if you apply say two to three coats paint stripper consecutively then scraping would become easy, remember the first coat even on your boat does nothing to penetrate the layers of varnish, also note that paint stripper of today is not like the paint stripper I used in the motor trade.
years ago, 25 years ago to be accurate.
Bear in mind many coats on top of each other releases nasty vapours for you and the lovely Carly and of course the manager Hank. So no sparky type things going on during stripping, the wood that is, note for dom there. May be todays stripper is not so toxic and does not produce vapour ?
Hoops this helps. Although you have finished it now so I will,just shut up rambling. Lo. 😅
More is better. You need gloves and a respirator mate.
So working for Rigit, Chatham & Rigit Southampton and moored next to work in Southampton sort of belies the whole off-grid ethos a bit surely? And...lucky you, you get all the benefits of a yard, tools, materials and suppliers. Quite far removed from the idyllic mission statement and adventuring cosiness of UA-cam Sailing Cadoha wouldn't you say? I'm disappointed.
You’re disappointed that we have to work for a living? Out of all the things to get offended by that’s a new one by me. 😂
Are you a patron?
@@CadohaAdventures You miss the point. The impression of off-grid adventurers doesn't quite match the reality. I've been a little bit sceptical of your channel for a while as you know. Far too many freebies, beanies, marketing and samples and a lot of rather trite commentary while not actually having a goal. Comfortably off twee couple pretending to be far more adventurous than they are....just isn't right.
I'm clearly not disappointed by anyone earning a living. Just feel as though you might be trying to pull the wool over our eyes. Just saying....
@@Edward-uf8mi I’m not sure how long you’ve been watching for but us working regular jobs for half the year and then trying to spend the other half of the year living as off-grid as we can is hardly new information.
I don’t see how working 15 hours a day, seven days a week, for half the year is somehow something you see as some kind of confidence job, but I guess we all have our own subjective view of life and the world.
I may not be the most adventurous person in the world either, I guess it’s a relative term, I mean I did used to prize fight internationally and some would say fighting on TV in Thailand in my early 20’s was a bit of an adventure?
Sailing across the bay of biscay for the first time was fairly exciting, but I won’t lie, it didn’t feel quite as high octane as locking myself in a cage to fight another man in front of thousands of people, but again I guess it’s all subjective.
If you’d like to see us live off-grid full time then you’re more than welcome to fill the financial gap that not working in winter would create.
Be the change you want to see in the world, Edward 👌🏼😬
@@CadohaAdventures Extraordinary delusions of heroism and adventure. Kick boxing and cage fighting might signify a number of things, not all of them impressive personality traits. I already do the change I want to see in the world pretty successfully thanks. No hyperbole or silly mission statements. And I'll leave you to get on with what you do.
@@Edward-uf8mi well that is always the other option, Eddie, just don’t watch whatever it is you don’t enjoy viewing.
It’s not rocket science, old sport.