Setting Valve Lash on 1966 Dodge Charger with Poly 318 V8
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2017
- Setting Valve Lash on 1966 Dodge Charger with Poly 318 V8 (The rediculous way... not the correct way) The original shop manual does, in fact, say to do this "while the engine is running." This is an unbelievably horrible idea that I would never recommend. Instead, do this with a hot engine that is no longer running. If your engine has good oil flow, you will surely regret opening the valve cover while it is running. Good luck! Have fun!
"Poly" is short for polyspherical. It's what Dodge used to describe the combustion chamber shape on these engines. The Poly came out in 1955 and ran until they came out with the LA style in 1967. There are several different sizes and variations. Check this out: www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0109-chryslers-poly-head-engine/
article is rife with errors ,typical of hot rod rag
what is he provin?
I've done the "Hot and Running" valve lash procedure on a Slant Six and never had that much difficulty. Of course, the "Slanty" won't spill much if any oil in the direction of the exhaust manifold when the valve cover is off; the best thing is to do the valve adjustment just prior to doing an oil change anyway, as you'll lose about half a quart unless you're quick. Given that on the "Poly" A block (most of the 'survivors' are 318s, but Canadian engines were 313s, IDK why, though in '67 some "leftover" 318s were installed in Chrysler Canada vehicles) the engine oil would run on the exhaust manifolds, greater care to guard against fire must be employed (but keeping an extinguisher handy should be typical shop practice ANYWAY), I'd suggest putting an old towel on top of the exhaust manifold to catch splashing oil.
IF you're that skittish about the "hot and running" procedure, if you get the engine sufficiently warmed up and can worked fairly fast, the pushrods and rocker arms won't cool off enough to alter the clearances that much. If you can get a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley, and yank the coil wire (to prevent accidental starting), just mark the distributor with the marking in the firing positions for each cylinder, and make note of the firing order (usually stamped conspicuously on the manifold). Staring with #1 at TDC, adjust that cylinder's valves, then crank the engine to the next firing position, do that cylinder, then move on. The procedure should take but a few minutes as long as you can readily and precisely crank the engine. Of course, often the valve adjustment comes at about the same interval as yanking the plugs and cleaning and/or replacing, so manual turning of the engine ought to be easier. In some cases, you can even move the crank pulley or the fan belts by hand (DON'T do that on the water pump!) when the plugs are out.
BTW, the 273 "LA" engine, introduced in mid-'64 for the Dart, Valiant, and the "A"-body Barracuda, also had solid tappets (from '64 to '67), and AFAIK did for both the stock 2-barrel and the relatively few "performance" 4-barrel units.
One of my 66 chargers that I had,had a 318 with mechanical lifters,what a big pain in the ass it was adjusting them all the time
Why is there little to no oil coming up? I could never understand the reasoning for this valve adjustment method.
Ran across the factory spec sheet for 318's and 273's in 1966. On a hot engine, Intake was supposed to be 0.013" and Exhaust was supposed to be 0.021".
image.ibb.co/jmufp7/1966_Dodge_Poly318_Valve_Cl_Hot.jpg
are the magnum 318 motor tuff as this 318 poly
I would say not quite
No the Poly's bare block weighs almost 40 lbs more than the LA/ magnum blocks. Many poly blocks have been safely bored over .100
plus forged crank and rods.@@Firion13
should like it was missing bad
is the 318 a tuff motor
What do you mean by tough? This is a 318 poly... Not to be confused with the far more mass produced LA 318. This was essentially the father of the LA small blocks. It has semi Hemi polyspherical combustion chamber heads. The LA had a more traditional wedge or open chamber heads.
@@Firion13 The blocks are, for all practical purposes, the same.
lot easier at 450-500 rpm ,engine needs to be at operating temp
Well that was completely incorrect. Not worth doing unless it's right.
no sense doing it while running
Poly?
Oh yeah that's a 318 Poly(not the later 318 LA engine)