joe i have done it this way for many years and it has never failed me the only thing i do different is to take the number one plug out and put the wire back on it then turn the key to the on position and move the dist. back and forth a little to make sure it sparks.this never fails me
Yup great idea, could have come in handy that time I switched a 78 Cordoba from Lean Burn to Points and put the distributoo 180 degrees Bass Ackwards... It even started and ran like crap. But best of all it pinged while idling... It drove me nuts. Finally I gave up and called one of my Mopar buddies to come take a look to see if he had any Ideas. Nothing like a fresh set of eyes... He figured it out in about 2 minutes.... I said; "No way!" I thought I knew everything LOL
Nice job, Joe. Been doing that for 40 years. Dang, now my secret is out. I don't have the time for a UA-cam channel, let alone know how ! It's good that you are showing this to new up and comers. That way they can save a lot of time and head scratching.
Thanks brother. I know guys older than me that “twist the distributor every way” and it still won’t start 😅. I fear now that cams will be flat by the time they get started up.
Thank you Joe for always sharing n teaching much needed for so many mopar knowledge and tricks. Really love your cylinder head porting and power making tips.
Nailed that startup on the first try! Very Nice! Car sounds great!! Im also glad you didn't suffer any physical, mental, or emotional pain while wearing the Official Duddie's Adventure shirt!
@@JustMoparJoe so do you gotta have it at 10 before? Cause I did this exact process on my truck and I went to start it but it kept just cranking for a few seconds. I didn’t mess with it further cause I have no mufflers. Just headers
Hope to get out my truck in the morning see what happens i tried a couple times and it was popping i put it on top dead center ... see if you trick works thank you
I also do it the way Paul little does it in your comment section it works great. I am amazed to see how many people on UA-cam don't do this at all and have backfires and all kinds of crazy stuff when it's not necessary at all
I just love that '65 Coronet Joe, especially in Red. The small block fits like a glove and your timing adjustment method is cool. Can't wait until you can take her out and stretch her legs. I always had names for my cars. I'm pickin' Roxanne for this one!
I like to stay with the factory index of the distributor/oil pump drive orientation. It simplifies wire position and any diagnosis if problems arise later. Sounds good Joe. What mufflers?
Joe. You have great tips on this channel. I would appreciate your advice. I have a 69 superbee with a 525 hp 440 now. Considering building original 383 numbers matching engine to either 440 source 496 or Mancini 472ci. Any recommendations? Much appreciated. Rusty
I love the low deck platform, but it’s hard to beat a good old 440. If you wanted to build the 383, I would go with the longer stroke to net more torque down low to help move a heavy b body. However the Mancini kit gets you a longer rod. I would probably prefer a 440 source crank over the eagle crank in the Mancini kit. Last I heard, Molnar made 440 source. They may use different suppliers for different kits, etc. Either would be a good option. But if you want simple, buy some better heads and camshaft for your current 440. We know it can make 565 horse and 580 foot pounds with a stock stroke.
Looks like me at 15 dying to get my car running behind the garage so my Grandma didn't whack me with her cane old timer trick knew where to hit for maximum punishment and redness. LOL
@@dantelopez4353 forwards or backwards, when the distributor is locked in place, it doesn’t matter. Newer stuff is usually set off of a crank sensor or crank trigger
You may have to pick up the distributor and the intermediate shaft, and reset them. I would aim for around 10-12 degrees initial if it’s a bone stock engine. Also check the advance curve after you rev it to 3,500. The firecore should be light years ahead of the old stock distributor. 318 will run has a good video on finding the best initial timing for your engine.
You might want to check your distributor, make sure your rotor is lined up correctly. Is it a new build or old engine? Are you sure about cam timing(timing marks lined correctly)? Another big one on fords is that they have a bunch of different firing orders and the way they number their cylinders. Double check the firing order and plug wires. Hopefully that helps 🫡
Hey Joe question for you recently found a 69 barracuda 318 3-speed automatic unmolested doesn't have a grill minor dent in front fender it's dark green what would you think the value could be seats are little chewy floors are good trunks good quarters good?
Oh man. That’s a nice car. The easy answer is,”whatever Simeon would pay for it.” The more correct response would be maybe $6,000-8,000 depending on its completeness. Finding trim, etc. can be very expensive and time consuming.
@@JustMoparJoe thanks for the reply I found out tonight did it has had some modifications and Oldsmobile positive traction rear end was put in it the rest of the car looks pretty stock has bucket seats and console speedometer shows 63,000 miles motor does not run
I bought an e-body Challenger with a 383. It runs rough so I decided to go through the tune starting with timing. There was no timing mark on the balancer. So I found TDC on the compression stroke with a piston stop and marked the balancer. Then rolled the engine counter-clockwise back to about 12 BTDC. Next I followed your video and lined up the pickup coil with the reluctor. But when I put the rotor back in, it is not directly under any of the distributer cap posts. It is rotated counter-clockwise about 1/3 of the way past one post, 2/3 before the next post. Ever come across this? Any ideas what is going on with this?
It’s very possible, depending on the distributor,rotor, or cap manufacturers. Some people don’t line up the rotor at all. Locating the correct number 1 and the verifying fire order is important. If you can get it back running, throw your timing light on and see where it’s at for initial and total. Be sure you have a good set of plugs in the car(ngk or autolite). Also check wires and connection to coil. Also check vacuum lines for any leaks.
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks for the fast reply! I expected the rotor to be perfectly aligned with a post on the cap once the reluctor was aligned with the pickup coil. But it is ~15 degrees past one post, ~30 degrees before the next post. I can put everything back the way it was before and see if runs. At least I have a TDC mark on the balancer now :-) Really not understanding how this thing was running at all now...
@@acardiac5983 those 10 degrees plus what’s in the mechanical advance will give you enough initial timing to start your engine. The spark is happening before top dead center, so it can blow the piston back down. Here’s another clearer example 400 to 500 Stroker: First Start Up and the Problem We All Dread! #stroker #mopar ua-cam.com/video/YMawkZ-mhRk/v-deo.html
180 out I would try and make sure she didn't hear anything try again a little bit later good enough to drive it around the neighborhood. Just in time for fall.
Always start simple: Fuel, Fire, Air. If it has spark when you turn it over, and fuel when you pump the carb, then it should start. You can send me an email and I can try to help. justmoparjoe@gmail.com
Videos and the way your showing people how to do and how to tidy it up correctly afterwards is a great thing. Most would say that it is okay and the extra effort and time is no it worth it. How they are going to find out when a wire burns off ,or the end pulled off because they didn't spend the 20 seconds to move it under the temperature gage sensor or any of the 1001 things that if you want a reliable, good old fashioned looking ride, looking professionally done by a try top notch restoration or restomod custom the way you want it, take pride in it , spread out your time wisely, and take your time and care in your work. It is you vehicles ladies and gentlemen and we being where you are is unique and you can do things that you really want and can make anything, any way that you want. For now take advantage of the freedom that is left , and as Frank S would say , "I will do it my way"!!!. Thanks again JMJ we enjoyed and great evening to you all!
It absolutely doesn’t matter. I think the factory set them all the same on the production line. Just be sure to make number one the closet to where it goes under the cap.
Hey Joe thanks for the video. Did you set the initial timing with the vacuum line disconnected? I’m trying to time my 440 correctly and I would like to start for scratch with your method. My car pulses a little while driving, so I know the timings off a little and it’s a new engine. I adjusted it some but slower to start and falls on it’s face when stomping on the gas and then picks up. Time to start from scratch I think. Guess you can tell I’m a rookie but trying to learn.
Get rid of that white rotor, i had the same one come apart at the top end 1/4- mile track. I was lucky and rolled all the way off track on to the shut off area.
Lost you at 3:55. Couldn't tell what your aligning. Bought a previously running engine and someone took the distributor out, trying to figure out best way of stabbing it back in ...
After dropping distributor in, pull cap. Pull number one plug, rotate engine until it poots on your finger. I like to then turn the timing mark on the balancer to 10 degrees before the zero. Next, look at your cap and see which lug the rotor is pointing at. That’s number one.
I was wondering about the direction of rotation- good tip about the vacuum advance can. Also, nice TDC on compression stroke trick with the finger on the plug hole.
Thanks brother. We always end up Spinning an engine when putting in converter bolts, getting oil to the rockers, etc. This is the fastest way I can imagine to get it back.
Sure this works but wrong with just and and just DOING TEXT BOOK CORRECT?? 🤷🏼 #1 point s towards #1 for a few reasons 1 being plug order and lengths ..
Try this one out. It’s a bit newer 400 to 500 Stroker: First Start Up and the Problem We All Dread! #stroker #mopar ua-cam.com/video/YMawkZ-mhRk/v-deo.html
Then you take it to a mechanic and they are like what the hells going on with the plugs. Its not hard to spin the pump gear where its pointing to number 1 piston
This is similar to how I do it. I never likes the idea of moving the intermediate shaft a tooth or 2 off. It doesn't give you enough adjustability in my opinion. Plus its a good way to knock stuff into the engine.
With your timing light, after it’s running, unplug vacuum advance if you have it, then shoot the balancer. Rev the engine to 3,000 and hold it. Check the timing again at the distributor. That difference is the mechanical advance total. You can go back to idle, plug in vacuum advance, and see how much it adds at idle.
joe i have done it this way for many years and it has never failed me the only thing i do different is to take the number one plug out and put the wire back on it then turn the key to the on position and move the dist. back and forth a little to make sure it sparks.this never fails me
That’s an excellent idea! Thanks for sharing!
Yup great idea, could have come in handy that time I switched a 78 Cordoba from Lean Burn to Points and put the distributoo 180 degrees Bass Ackwards... It even started and ran like crap. But best of all it pinged while idling... It drove me nuts. Finally I gave up and called one of my Mopar buddies to come take a look to see if he had any Ideas. Nothing like a fresh set of eyes... He figured it out in about 2 minutes.... I said; "No way!" I thought I knew everything LOL
Wouldn’t that make the engine start?
Nice job, Joe. Been doing that for 40 years. Dang, now my secret is out. I don't have the time for a UA-cam channel, let alone know how ! It's good that you are showing this to new up and comers. That way they can save a lot of time and head scratching.
Thanks brother. I know guys older than me that “twist the distributor every way” and it still won’t start 😅. I fear now that cams will be flat by the time they get started up.
If it pops right off, you did it right !!!!!!! Great video!
Thanks, Tim. I want to send any further timing questions your way! You’ve got some good videos on it. 👍🏼
@@JustMoparJoe appreciate it!
Here I am Joe. Im watching this to refresh, I think you know whats about to happen. Bringing the thunder!!
Awesome! Good luck buddy
Good job Joe.
I like the Insta Start.
That's the way it should be.💯
One step closer.👍
Take care, Ed.
Thanks Ed! Hope it helps someone
Thank you Joe for always sharing n teaching much needed for so many mopar knowledge and tricks. Really love your cylinder head porting and power making tips.
Thanks Niles!
@@JustMoparJoe your welcome Joe.
Nailed that startup on the first try! Very Nice! Car sounds great!! Im also glad you didn't suffer any physical, mental, or emotional pain while wearing the Official Duddie's Adventure shirt!
Haha! I’m glad you saw it in action! Maybe I’ve proved it’s safety by having it in enough videos 😂
Great video! Great process and tips Joe! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Mitch!
@@JustMoparJoe so do you gotta have it at 10 before? Cause I did this exact process on my truck and I went to start it but it kept just cranking for a few seconds. I didn’t mess with it further cause I have no mufflers. Just headers
@@danielpeterson446 the 10 before just ensures you get 10 degrees plus your initial advance
Another Fine production from JMJ production and crew! 🙌💥💯
Thanks John! Have a good week
Thanks for posting this, no pun intended but the timing for the video is perfect for a project I am working on. Many thanks.
Thanks, Kirk! Best of luck!
Great way to save that Cam shaft on your 1st start up! good job Joe!!!
Thanks Scott!
Thanks for all your info. Knowledge is the key and never stop learning
Thanks!
Hope to get out my truck in the morning see what happens i tried a couple times and it was popping i put it on top dead center ... see if you trick works thank you
Hope it works, let me know how it goes, and check out my recent video of cam swapping the 67 fury.
Starts right up. Gotta like that.
Absolutely! Thanks brother
The car sounds great and thanks for the lesson on timing
Thanks brother. It’s a simple video, I hope it helps someone out there!
You gotta love that all original 1 of a kind,Barney fender cover mat👍
Haha! I almost thought about giving it away to a viewer in a prize pack someday 😂
Sound's great, thanks for the video, all the best to you and your loved ones
Thanks Donald! Have a good week
I also do it the way Paul little does it in your comment section it works great. I am amazed to see how many people on UA-cam don't do this at all and have backfires and all kinds of crazy stuff when it's not necessary at all
You’d be amazed at bigger Mopar channels of guys who can’t use a timing light. Hope this helps them.
Excellent job 👌👍. Might take a bit to get those rings to set 📐.
Thanks Anthony. Ready to see it roll
Nicely done. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks John!
Sounds great 👍
Thanks Shane!
I just love that '65 Coronet Joe, especially in Red. The small block fits like a glove and your timing adjustment method is cool. Can't wait until you can take her out and stretch her legs. I always had names for my cars. I'm pickin' Roxanne for this one!
That’s slick! Thanks buddy!
Beautiful Coronet, awesome job !
Thanks brother. New converter is built. I’m waiting on the transmission still 😵💫
I like to stay with the factory index of the distributor/oil pump drive orientation. It simplifies wire position and any diagnosis if problems arise later. Sounds good Joe. What mufflers?
Thanks Garry. These are Jegs brand, magnaflow knock offs. I will show the part numbers in the exhaust videos
Joe. You have great tips on this channel. I would appreciate your advice. I have a 69 superbee with a 525 hp 440 now. Considering building original 383 numbers matching engine to either 440 source 496 or Mancini 472ci. Any recommendations? Much appreciated. Rusty
I love the low deck platform, but it’s hard to beat a good old 440. If you wanted to build the 383, I would go with the longer stroke to net more torque down low to help move a heavy b body. However the Mancini kit gets you a longer rod. I would probably prefer a 440 source crank over the eagle crank in the Mancini kit. Last I heard, Molnar made 440 source. They may use different suppliers for different kits, etc. Either would be a good option. But if you want simple, buy some better heads and camshaft for your current 440. We know it can make 565 horse and 580 foot pounds with a stock stroke.
FYI, Copper header gaskets last, have had the same set since around 2008 and I'm sure they've been on and off 10-20 times
Thanks buddy. I ordered a set of aluminum multi layers, like I have on my barracuda. I always ran the coppers on my big block cuda.
Just the video I needed to get on my truck lol
Thanks for the support
Looks like me at 15 dying to get my car running behind the garage so my Grandma didn't whack me with her cane old timer trick knew where to hit for maximum punishment and redness. LOL
Haha!
Excellent video what engine is it
Thanks! That’s a 74’ LA 360.
I thought you couldn’t roll a motor back wards because you would screw up the timing it is that just for the newer stuff?
@@dantelopez4353 forwards or backwards, when the distributor is locked in place, it doesn’t matter. Newer stuff is usually set off of a crank sensor or crank trigger
What lines you match up without pointing rotor at #1 please help thank you Joe.
The lines of the rotor and the magnetic pickup inside distributor
What should a 1978 Chrysler 400 engine timing be set at? It says 5 degrees but can't move the distributor that far because vacuum hits manifold
You may have to pick up the distributor and the intermediate shaft, and reset them. I would aim for around 10-12 degrees initial if it’s a bone stock engine. Also check the advance curve after you rev it to 3,500. The firecore should be light years ahead of the old stock distributor. 318 will run has a good video on finding the best initial timing for your engine.
@JustMoparJoe I did this same thing on my 84 ford f250 460 and the dang thing just cranks and backfires. Not sure whats up.
You might want to check your distributor, make sure your rotor is lined up correctly. Is it a new build or old engine? Are you sure about cam timing(timing marks lined correctly)? Another big one on fords is that they have a bunch of different firing orders and the way they number their cylinders. Double check the firing order and plug wires. Hopefully that helps 🫡
That was cool, I got a fresh 340 I'm putting in a Cuda'
Awesome! Good luck on the project 👍🏼
Its amazing to me how little people know about timing with old cars. They always blame the carb.
A spark in time.
Thanks John!
Good as always!
Thanks Big Mike!
Hey nice video how do I need to lineup the distributor gear
It can go anyway you wish. From factory, I saw that big blocks put the slot of the gear perpendicular to the deck surface.
I did this to a T and no fire haha. I’m thinking the guy I got my engine from didn’t put the cam in right.
What year are those valve covers and what engine did they come off have a set on my 71 swinger need passenger side oil fill cap good video
Thanks Dave. These were from a 67 273.
@@JustMoparJoe thank you
@@davesaylor5135 if you can’t find one, send me an email. justmoparjoe@gmail.com
Hey Joe question for you recently found a 69 barracuda 318 3-speed automatic unmolested doesn't have a grill minor dent in front fender it's dark green what would you think the value could be seats are little chewy floors are good trunks good quarters good?
Oh man. That’s a nice car. The easy answer is,”whatever Simeon would pay for it.” The more correct response would be maybe $6,000-8,000 depending on its completeness. Finding trim, etc. can be very expensive and time consuming.
@@JustMoparJoe thanks for the reply I found out tonight did it has had some modifications and Oldsmobile positive traction rear end was put in it the rest of the car looks pretty stock has bucket seats and console speedometer shows 63,000 miles motor does not run
@@mrpurcountry that’s odd on the rearend, but easily fixable. My dart sport has an s10 rearend that someone swapped in 🤨
What is that ignition module you are using?
This one is an FBO box, found on 4secondsflat.com
where are the sparky round things in the distributor ?
Maybe the reluctor wheel? I’m not sure what is sparky? Sparking? Sparkling, as in shiny?
I bought an e-body Challenger with a 383. It runs rough so I decided to go through the tune starting with timing. There was no timing mark on the balancer. So I found TDC on the compression stroke with a piston stop and marked the balancer. Then rolled the engine counter-clockwise back to about 12 BTDC. Next I followed your video and lined up the pickup coil with the reluctor. But when I put the rotor back in, it is not directly under any of the distributer cap posts. It is rotated counter-clockwise about 1/3 of the way past one post, 2/3 before the next post. Ever come across this? Any ideas what is going on with this?
It’s very possible, depending on the distributor,rotor, or cap manufacturers. Some people don’t line up the rotor at all. Locating the correct number 1 and the verifying fire order is important. If you can get it back running, throw your timing light on and see where it’s at for initial and total. Be sure you have a good set of plugs in the car(ngk or autolite). Also check wires and connection to coil. Also check vacuum lines for any leaks.
@@JustMoparJoe Thanks for the fast reply! I expected the rotor to be perfectly aligned with a post on the cap once the reluctor was aligned with the pickup coil. But it is ~15 degrees past one post, ~30 degrees before the next post. I can put everything back the way it was before and see if runs. At least I have a TDC mark on the balancer now :-) Really not understanding how this thing was running at all now...
@@70Chally383 good luck 👍🏼
Why did you set it to 10BTC instead of 0?
@@acardiac5983 those 10 degrees plus what’s in the mechanical advance will give you enough initial timing to start your engine. The spark is happening before top dead center, so it can blow the piston back down. Here’s another clearer example 400 to 500 Stroker: First Start Up and the Problem We All Dread! #stroker #mopar
ua-cam.com/video/YMawkZ-mhRk/v-deo.html
Does this work for hei distributors?
👍🏼 yep. Probably easier since the caps are so big.
Dang, I wish I was your neighbor! 😂 good stuff Joe!
Haha! Right down the road
180 out I would try and make sure she didn't hear anything try again a little bit later good enough to drive it around the neighborhood. Just in time for fall.
Thanks John
I have a 360 that dose not run or idle at all did timing everything need help
Always start simple: Fuel, Fire, Air. If it has spark when you turn it over, and fuel when you pump the carb, then it should start. You can send me an email and I can try to help. justmoparjoe@gmail.com
I need help Joe! My 318 won't get any spark and I can't figure it out
justmoparjoe@gmail.com I can try to help
That's a fine playing organ
Thanks brother
Ty sir , 👍👍👍👍👍
Pay Attention.
Translate to ……
Thanks Lilo
What engine you running?
This is an LA 360 that was swapped in place of the original poly
I did this about a hour ago on a fresh e58
Excellent! Mopar to the front! Thanks Neighbor
What does your kids think about you using there sheets ?
@@TimOwen-fq2ik they don’t use them anymore after the incident..
Is Barney fender cover available in you're merchandise, lol
I may give this one away! 😂
@@JustMoparJoe That lucky bastard
Videos and the way your showing people how to do and how to tidy it up correctly afterwards is a great thing. Most would say that it is okay and the extra effort and time is no it worth it. How they are going to find out when a wire burns off ,or the end pulled off because they didn't spend the 20 seconds to move it under the temperature gage sensor or any of the 1001 things that if you want a reliable, good old fashioned looking ride, looking professionally done by a try top notch restoration or restomod custom the way you want it, take pride in it , spread out your time wisely, and take your time and care in your work. It is you vehicles ladies and gentlemen and we being where you are is unique and you can do things that you really want and can make anything, any way that you want. For now take advantage of the freedom that is left , and as Frank S would say , "I will do it my way"!!!.
Thanks again JMJ we enjoyed and great evening to you all!
Thanks buddy!
Does it matter where you start number 1? Every diagram I see number 1 is opposite of where you have number 1
It absolutely doesn’t matter. I think the factory set them all the same on the production line. Just be sure to make number one the closet to where it goes under the cap.
Would the placement of #1 on the cap matter on a Pontiac 350 ? All the videos I see say the rotor should be facing #1 plug .
Thanks
I like to rotate engine back then forward to timing mark desired to take any slack out of timing chain. Great videos 😎
Great point! I usually do that when degreeing the cam
Sweet!!
Thanks!
Hey Joe thanks for the video. Did you set the initial timing with the vacuum line disconnected? I’m trying to time my 440 correctly and I would like to start for scratch with your method. My car pulses a little while driving, so I know the timings off a little and it’s a new engine. I adjusted it some but slower to start and falls on it’s face when stomping on the gas and then picks up. Time to start from scratch I think. Guess you can tell I’m a rookie but trying to learn.
Yea sir: always time without the advance connected. You may need to recurve the distributor and be sure you have correct fuel pressure. 👍🏼
Get rid of that white rotor, i had the same one come apart at the top end 1/4- mile track. I was lucky and rolled all the way off track on to the shut off area.
Will do. I usually like the ones made by Mopar.
Lost you at 3:55. Couldn't tell what your aligning. Bought a previously running engine and someone took the distributor out, trying to figure out best way of stabbing it back in ...
After dropping distributor in, pull cap. Pull number one plug, rotate engine until it poots on your finger. I like to then turn the timing mark on the balancer to 10 degrees before the zero. Next, look at your cap and see which lug the rotor is pointing at. That’s number one.
I was wondering about the direction of rotation- good tip about the vacuum advance can. Also, nice TDC on compression stroke trick with the finger on the plug hole.
Thanks brother. We always end up
Spinning an engine when putting in converter bolts, getting oil to the rockers, etc. This is the fastest way I can imagine to get it back.
Just dont use your pinky finger if you have small hands... Just Sayin...😀
What's a f b o box Joe?
It’s an ecu from 4secondsflat.com
Sure this works but wrong with just and and just DOING TEXT BOOK CORRECT?? 🤷🏼 #1 point s towards #1 for a few reasons 1 being plug order and lengths ..
This is the cliff notes version
That made absolutely no sense to me. But thanks, because I know once I get it, it is a good way to do something!
Try this one out. It’s a bit newer 400 to 500 Stroker: First Start Up and the Problem We All Dread! #stroker #mopar
ua-cam.com/video/YMawkZ-mhRk/v-deo.html
NO NO NO Joe ! my OCD will never allow this ! lol
I’m working on it 🫡
Then you take it to a mechanic and they are like what the hells going on with the plugs. Its not hard to spin the pump gear where its pointing to number 1 piston
Be your own mechanic and not worry about it
This is similar to how I do it. I never likes the idea of moving the intermediate shaft a tooth or 2 off. It doesn't give you enough adjustability in my opinion. Plus its a good way to knock stuff into the engine.
🇦🇺👍🏻
Thank y’all so much for the support!
👍🏻🇦🇺
Thanks brother
The same way I do it.
Easy.
Why would you do it anyway else?
Guess you need u-tube content.
* next, 8 minute video how you clean your finger nails.
You must have missed the description. This is the most asked question I get. So I made a specific video about it. Thanks for sharing.
If you comment, its worth the upload.
Tom,
Do you suffer from very dirty fingernails? Joe can probably find some links to other channels for you if necessary, he’s a good guy like that.
How can you tell how much advance your distributor has?
With your timing light, after it’s running, unplug vacuum advance if you have it, then shoot the balancer. Rev the engine to 3,000 and hold it. Check the timing again at the distributor. That difference is the mechanical advance total. You can go back to idle, plug in vacuum advance, and see how much it adds at idle.