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Why is there little to no oil coming up? I could never understand the reasoning for this valve adjustment method.

Do you have a template for this? Also, what were the wires on the cup holders for?

I honestly think I just baught the raider

should like it was missing bad

Love it, can you please share the template?

What happened with the raider??

Do you still have this? Selling any of the parts?

Great design!! Do you have a template you’d be willing to share? 👍🏼

Well that was completely incorrect. Not worth doing unless it's right.

Hi, l have a 54’ dodge, I can’t get the vent door open, to rusty 😤 how could I get it open? From under the dash, won’t brake lose.

Hi good morning I like to buy tha side pair of side glass

I've done the "Hot and Running" valve lash procedure on a Slant Six and never had that much difficulty. Of course, the "Slanty" won't spill much if any oil in the direction of the exhaust manifold when the valve cover is off; the best thing is to do the valve adjustment just prior to doing an oil change anyway, as you'll lose about half a quart unless you're quick. Given that on the "Poly" A block (most of the 'survivors' are 318s, but Canadian engines were 313s, IDK why, though in '67 some "leftover" 318s were installed in Chrysler Canada vehicles) the engine oil would run on the exhaust manifolds, greater care to guard against fire must be employed (but keeping an extinguisher handy should be typical shop practice ANYWAY), I'd suggest putting an old towel on top of the exhaust manifold to catch splashing oil. IF you're that skittish about the "hot and running" procedure, if you get the engine sufficiently warmed up and can worked fairly fast, the pushrods and rocker arms won't cool off enough to alter the clearances that much. If you can get a breaker bar and socket on the crank pulley, and yank the coil wire (to prevent accidental starting), just mark the distributor with the marking in the firing positions for each cylinder, and make note of the firing order (usually stamped conspicuously on the manifold). Staring with #1 at TDC, adjust that cylinder's valves, then crank the engine to the next firing position, do that cylinder, then move on. The procedure should take but a few minutes as long as you can readily and precisely crank the engine. Of course, often the valve adjustment comes at about the same interval as yanking the plugs and cleaning and/or replacing, so manual turning of the engine ought to be easier. In some cases, you can even move the crank pulley or the fan belts by hand (DON'T do that on the water pump!) when the plugs are out. BTW, the 273 "LA" engine, introduced in mid-'64 for the Dart, Valiant, and the "A"-body Barracuda, also had solid tappets (from '64 to '67), and AFAIK did for both the stock 2-barrel and the relatively few "performance" 4-barrel units.

no sense doing it while running

One of my 66 chargers that I had,had a 318 with mechanical lifters,what a big pain in the ass it was adjusting them all the time

Put slight pressure on it then hit it with the sledgehammer.

Evidently rust is about as strong as anything!

Why is that idiot standing so close to the tow strap?

is the 318 a tuff motor

I would check out my Limit Switch,Roll out switch also.And is your flame sensor actually into the pilot flame ? As it should be. I couldn't tell by looking at you video. You can boot up a wiring diagram ect. for your unit thru Google Search,it's there. (Search Lennox Furnace/Model no. G20Q3/4E-100-1 CLICK ON G-20E Wiring Diagram Free Pdf All or Most of your info is there.Good Luck.

are the magnum 318 motor tuff as this 318 poly

Is the gas valve open

How did you widen them though? Did you cut them out and add a sliver of fresh steel on the inside and then weld it back to the fender.

Have you sold these?

Ran across the factory spec sheet for 318's and 273's in 1966. On a hot engine, Intake was supposed to be 0.013" and Exhaust was supposed to be 0.021". image.ibb.co/jmufp7/1966_Dodge_Poly318_Valve_Cl_Hot.jpg

lot easier at 450-500 rpm ,engine needs to be at operating temp

what was the issue? i am having the same problem

"Poly" is short for polyspherical. It's what Dodge used to describe the combustion chamber shape on these engines. The Poly came out in 1955 and ran until they came out with the LA style in 1967. There are several different sizes and variations. Check this out: www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0109-chryslers-poly-head-engine/

Poly?

Would love a Charger under mine, nice metalwork mate

How's the Panel going?

Hey Derrick, love this idea. Check out my build if you get time, on my channel. I don't have rear doors for mine, so I'm looking to fabricate a single rear door one day.

No fail here mate, the end results were perfect.