The #2 Golden Rules To Patch Plastering LIKE A PRO | Ultimate DIY Guide To Patching Plaster
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
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We'll show you the best way to patch plaster and show you the #2 Golden Rules To Patch Plastering.
Link to video showing how to patch a SMALL HOLE in 15 mins MAX. This is from our new channel, DIY For Beginners:
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• Fill & PAINT A Small H...
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Blaine Gray,
Plastering For Beginners
#construction #diy #plastering #plasteringwork #home #stucco #plaster
in germany we actually cut the edge of the hole at an 45° angle before patching it up, which helps to blur the line even more.
instead of using a brush we actually use a sponge float.
at my place (~200-300 yrs old south german building) i did some repairs for the owner in a room and added a smooth lime finish. since it is a heritage building, many modern methods are not allowed to be used to the point of extreme punishment. for that reason i was not allowed to use a mesh against cracking - which of course occured.
when i tried to repair that smooth lime finish, i mixed some new material with a little bit more water and brushed it into the fine crack. after it dried for one day, i used some sand paper to get rid of the excess material, instead of trying to blur it in an unset state.
after that i tried to test my work by sending in people who didnt know about the crack to look for it - all of them failed to find it and only saw it after i showed them.
you literally have to stand like two feet from the wall with good illumination to actually see it.
from that and other experiences i have to say, that it is true, that you can't patch a hole or crack to a point where it is impossible to see. you can mask it to make it really hard to notice though.
the only exception where you actually can ALWAYS perfectly repair any hole or crack is - CLAY. a clay plaster can actually be put back into an unset state by adding moisture to that location with wet sponges being fixed there and kept wet for a while.
once the clay has taken enough water to become flexible again, you can 100% fix that patch without anybody ever knowing it was there.
i work with natural materials only - i specialize in lime and clay plastering. i recommend to any person to try clay plaster (without additives, better mix it yourself or buy 100% natural, certified material! fuck the cancer VOCs!)
Hi mate. I’m really interested in clay plaster and have been learning but the actual material is ridiculously expensive. Got any links/ tips etc on finding a good clay plaster company?
@@tarcanplaka6721
do you need the material or somebody to do it?
for the material:
i think that depends where you live. each country is different.
i can only speak for germany and austria.
it also makes a difference if you need it as a professional or just for yourself in your home.
if you have the time but not the money, you could make clayplaster yourself.
the process is rather labor intensive, not really complicated.
for the people:
goes basically the same like above, i only know people from the german speaking countries.
@@dali1384 I was looking for the material really. I think I’m going to have to dig deeper. Or maybe I should come hang out in Germany for a bit! 😂
@@tarcanplaka6721
dont worry pal, i will help you! where are you from?
you gotta be careful because manufactured clay might still be mixed with synthesized materials...
companies which sell "pure" material, will certainly have a certificate for that.
the cheapest way to obtain it is to ask construction companies who do excavations.
they usually have tons of clay being transported by trucks to a dump and might even need to pay for the "waste".´
here in germany i would just call a bunch of such companies or ask at construction sides which are about to excavate.
usually you can have it for free then, because they need to transport it anways and save money just dumping it on your property.
you then have to process the material.
you gotta be sure that they deliver you "very sticky" material, a soil with a lot of clay vs sand, because it is much easier to add sand yourself than the other way around.
you will need to extract rocks and gravel by sieving it out. it worked best for me to dissolve the clay in water and pour it through a sieve.
dissolving the clay takes time, its slow. keep poking holes into the material for the water and mix it up every couply of days.
once you got it all sorted, you let it dry and keep taking out the water. make sure to always wait till the water looks clean to not remove clay particles.
the other way would be to crush dry clay and put it through a sieve. that method requires a machine, but is faster and probably less labour intensive.
once you got the raw material processed, you will need to create a few "test batches" on your desired surface to try different mixtures in order to find out which one works.
you then start off with pure clay as mix #1 and then keep increasing added sand for the other batches.
i recommend 10 inch / 25cm squares for testing and doing at least 9 different mixes.
if you want to prevent cracking, you can add straw fibres (preferably small ones).
if you can only obtain large straw pieces, put them on a tarp and drag a lawnmover over it till it is shredded enough.
if you want to increase durability and workability, keep the clay in the water as long as possible while adding straw / cow pats and let them dissolve. the decomposition process of any of these will stink horribly, but stop once dry on the wall.
the japanese keep their clay for at least a year in the water while adding straw once in a while, because it keeps rotting away.
but that is kinda the super quality version that barely anybody applies today, because they are impatient and space is expensive for the most people.
once you know your favourite mix, clean the surface, "paint" it with a very watered down mix of clay, let it dry, start applying the first clay coat.
it is possible to dye clay with pigments and different sands (marble sand for example), if you want the finish coat to look in a specific way.
most people want to brighten up their clay walls because the natural material is quite dark.
if you have further questions, we can choose a different way of communication, like discord, telegram or fb to make things easier.
i hope i could help you out :)
You just confirmed how I do my patchwork. That feels good 👍🏻. You did pull me up on using dirty water more often though. 👍🏻
Blaine your video production has really improved over the years, so has your teaching mate 👏
Thank you mate. I really appreciate that…means a lot. Cheers 👍
Blain a couple of times during the vid u mentioned Easi-Fil ur spot on its the only way to rearly lose those patch worked areas if u feather away ( 2 or 3 trowel lengths ) and then rub down with a quality hand sander u can virtually make that patch invisible even when looking down the wall in natural light completely agree with u u’ll never get bang on with plaster alone in fact when I patch (as long as it isn’t huge) I don’t even go with plaster it’s 2 or 3 coats of Easi rubbed down
Thanks, very comprehensive and helpful, especially the honesty regarding easyfil and feathering 🙏
I use the nela corner trowel now .absolutely love it
Great tips as always Blaine!
Thanks you mate - I appreciate you watching. Cheers 👍
Good job mate blending it in with decorators looks like minimal filling needed
Great video, learning to plaster as I want to do most of the house and save £££. Quick question, for the ceilings, they have those half circular style on them, slight indent, do I need to PVA over it first or can I just plaster over them?
Great video. But a tip I learnt was . When you nearly finished the patch or any the end. Get a clean sponge and clean water. And wash away the dirty water on the existing. And it looks a lot better and cleaner. But it's nice to see you got no plaster on the other wall where you skimmed the whole wall .
Great Vid, Blain. I have had some good results with 'Halftime Plaster Accelerator'! Though it is maybe best to first get used to how much to pour in the mix? The first test went solid in the bucket within 10 minutes! Too much! But we learn!.... I found the old way of using dirty water was very uncertain and could allow larger hard grains of plaster to suddenly develop on the wall. In Short; There was 'No Control'! Though I agree; Much better to skim over a larger area if possible as opposed to working hard to make a join invisible based on patching? Just turned 60 yrs last week so I now do ceilings in TWO halves; This means I need to be really good at feathering out a join that must never be seen after painting. This is never going to be an easy task but over the past decade I seem to have mastered it!
Great video thanks. Other than PVA on the edges, how did you prep the painted surface of the existing plaster before going over with new plaster finish? Do you vary the prep according to what paint is on the existing plaster? Thanks
Excellent work mate. Love your videos. Been waiting for this one. As a DIYer I've learn't a lot from your videos, thank you.
Thanks pal, really appreciate that! Glad to hear it’s helping my friend 👍
He is an amateur
@@user-df4qp7ur2zexplain why?
I always enjoy your videos Blaine, you've helped me transform my house. I can't find your new channel though.
Glad it’s helped mate. Links below my friend…thanks for showing interest 👍
ua-cam.com/video/lHqia5kZtvA/v-deo.html
Lovely old job 👏👏👏
Nice one Blaine 👌
top video blaine !
Thanks pal!!
Nice video! So you use sbr or pva before applying hardwall ? Thanks
Hi! Great video as always! Please post a link for your other channel?
Greetings from South Africa!!
Thank you for watching pal! The links here:
ua-cam.com/video/lHqia5kZtvA/v-deo.html
A great video like always
Hi Blaine, Have followed the plastering one and have managed an OK job! One question, I have a ceiling to the basement which is curved convex and the plaster needs skimming. Am I best to use the Knauf skim with a roller then just trowel round or just re plaster the whole area? Thanks
Grate vid mate very useful
Thanks pal!
What's your thoughts on using Easifill to patch?
For patching use Gypsum Plaster (European, white plaster), rather than Lime Plaster (British, yellow-sandy as in video). Gypsum based plaster can be easily sanded to glass-smooth finish with perfect patch-border which will be completely covered/masked by simple paint. Although Gypsum Plaster is not available in every shop... it can be easily acquired in every larger city in UK. One of known brands selling it in UK s KNAUF.
White gypsum based plaster is most common plaster in modern residential housing. But it may not work well with British outdated cavity-wall based technology. Therefore should not be used as a replacement for Lime based Plaster! Small patch work will be fine, but dont do full rooms... unless you are looking for an upgraded ventilation and insulation.
Aup bro, what you laying on with, my martial town is slightly ment, need a newby, thanks mate
Can I pva,a painted wall with cracks and mesh the whole wall then put a finish coat over the whole wall.
Patching is easy lads especially with the flexi trowels we’ve got now but I do agree it’s even easier to do the full wall if possible. But if u do it right u can’t see it
Flexis are worse mate, they follow any ridges or bits you haven’t feathered out properly whereas a carbon for example will get rid of them. Unfortunately with glancing light most patches are visible, usually just due to the slight difference in texture from the existing wall
I have to skim a wall with an existing Victorian plaster arch....I have no idea how to finish the edge where it meets the curved opening. Do you have any videos on this please?
At last …someone with sense. Forget patching when walls like that. Soooo much easier just to skim the wall, much better finish too. Patching an area like that is just lazy, it is far easier and realistically quicker just to skim the wall.
Completely agree, if the ceiling is 10 metres squared or less the whole thing is getting done, any bigger or if it’s a crowded room I’ll just patch. But yeah with walls I try and do the whole thing in general, I’m good at patching but when I’ve decorated my own work (I’m a decorator too) I do sometimes have to either sand the edge or fill it
👍👍👍
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriotalways good to decorate your own work if you can….have done it many times for people…patching always needs a little extra work regardless. Plus the customer only sees the end product not the work that goes in to it in between
@@christophersmith5606 yeah mate, I actually learned to plaster (self taught through UA-cam), because of the amount of jobs I’d go to that had awful plastering. I’m now the sole plasterer for 4 of my mates who do kitchens and bathrooms as well as 2 firms
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriotfair play to you mate. Goes to show what initiative and hard work does for you. The greater variety of work you can do for people the better your scope of work will be….ie decorating etc…better ur work looks too.
You also get to know if your work is good quality and where you can improve. Generally makes you a better tradesman.
I’m after to put shorter skirting boards and got deep gap between plaster and bricks . Advise me please what should I fill gaps with? Multifinish would be okay?
Hi Blaine do you not use a paint roller when ploy bonding
Do you pva the bonding before skimning?
How long did this job take you in total?
I can’t find plaster please advise. In New York State I can only find plaster of paris 😢
Ok…I’m just going to hire someone.😂
What did he say the corner trowel is called?
I'm going to attempt my first bit of plastering soon. I'll need a pair of props to board a small ceiling. Can you recommend any?
I’ll be honest mate, I’m not sure where mine are from. But they are all very similar to one another so I wouldn’t stress too much. They are all pretty good 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners Thanks for the reply.
@@ADayWithoutYesterday toolstation do them, bout 25 quid each
@@NiktheEnglishGreekCypriot Thanks
@@ADayWithoutYesterday no probs. They’re a pain to use just a warning, my one was one where you raise it by pumping a handle almost, but even with that (not easy to do), I never went bigger than 180x90 boards
I was taught to score and remove an inch margin of plaster back to the board all around the new piece scrim tape it and skim in to rather than thinking it out . Any thoughts on this method?
Once it's dry couple of weeks I can run over it with mirka dust free sander.
Hey mate love your videos I was just wondering if you could do a video on different types of render and the process of application for each one. I’m an apprentice and it’s really confusing me.
Yippy yi a cowboy , you never contaminate the water to get it to set faster
👍👍
Won't see my patches in the light buddy, might have to make a video 👀
👍👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners bit of a cunts comment I know but can't say it's impossible
Do it, I’ve seldom seen a patch disappear with glancing light, if ever
You plaster up and down not side to side