I love how you keep your errors in the videos. Makes them so much better than most others, AND it makes me feel less bad about my mistakes. But only because you're such a boss
I do this work for a living and I still enjoy watching videos of others doing the same. weird, right? I have to say that substituting drywall for real plaster has really become the easiest and quickest way to repair these ailing ceilings. If I were to offer one suggestion and it's small, I have had great success with back laminating the drywall panels with durabond. this would especially be helpful on the edges or were drywall screws aren't properly anchored. the durabond also forms new keys to act as a fail safe and give you hands free screwing. when doing this, you would obviously have to dust off and use plaster weld or other pva for superior bond. just a thought...not saying my way is better..just another way. keep up the good work!
OMGOSH!!! You couldn’t have had this problem about a month ago? My husband and I took all the plaster and lath off of a wall in our bedroom because we had old water damage behind wallpaper and part of the wall was crumbling off on one side. We ended up putting drywall over the entire wall and now I’ve finished fixing all the cracks in the other 2 plaster walls, I even floated out the bottom of the wall from the baseboards to even out the walls AFTER watching your videos. Thank you for passing along your knowledge to us “newbies” with home improvements.
I found a similar issue at my girlfriends house that had been left unrepaired for years. I did the same kind of repair you did and it turned out awesome. Great knowledge shared here.
Am a BIG fan of your work, and especially now since I have a near IDENTICAL patch to fix in my OWN kitchen ceiling. And now I know how, thanks to you! Keep making these videos! Frankly I don’t know why you don’t have your own show on TV yet. You’d be brilliant.
Don't need to time lapse..it's a pleasure watching a PRO do such a fine job. Only one humiliating moment..:( Fill (Phil) :D LOL waiting for the next tutorial!
I have a 95 year old house that needed this same repair and there were also a number of loose spots in different rooms. I did not tear out and replace the loose areas with drywall, I simply screwed the loose spots back in place, which is far quicker, easier, and in my opinion, a much better repair because my walls have a nice rough texture that is very difficult to replicate. This repair has held up perfectly for 20 years now. They even make plaster repair washers for this purpose, but I didn't even use them, I just used drywall screws.
Great video. As someone who has done repairs for decades I enjoy learning new tips. The only thing in this video that threw me off is ' the leak is probably from bad flashing that will soon be addressed '. ALWAYS find and repair the leak issue before repairing plaster/drywall. Your now 'stronger than original ' plaster repair will simply spread the leak damage even further if the leak is not addressed first. Many times I have had roofers that need several attempts to 'find the true leak problem ', especially when dealing with 'old roof systems, which is basically any structure that used 'plaster.
Thank you thank youuu. I really needed to see this as I’m a single mother and 1st time homeowner attempting to do some DIY projects. So far most have been successful thanks to Google and UA-cam. Good job sir.
We have an old house with a plaster ceiling that is falling down. It has been like a glacier for years, but now it is time to repair. Our contractor neighbor said we should sheet the whole cieling. I'm too cheap and after watching this video, I actually think I could do the repair myself. Won't look nearly as good as yours, but way better than a whole in the cieling threatening to fall on us in our sleep. Thanks for the demo and easy steps. I truly had no idea what to do all these years. I did not want to tear the whole thing down and start over.
Dude, I love when you laugh at yourself. Sooo, realistic and actually what happens all the time. No editing please, it is so helpful. I've been there with all the things that can happen. Great work!!
I can’t tell you how many times I wish that I had someone else to clean up at the end of the day. Great job on this patch. As usual, very instructional.
I used construction adhesive and masonry nails to attach drywall to a concrete block wall for a massive patch. Your previous videos helped me finish it nice. Thanks!
In a case like this , I would have used Masonary screws . Screws that would be self tapping with a bugle head. The bugle head is flat and has a wide head that grips more plaster under it’s rim. These screws can be screwed in , without the heavy pounding on frail plaster . I have also skimmed hot mud with glue mixed in , on to the plaster 8” from the raw edge . I then embedded perfa tape in to the wet hot mud , then let it dry, after which I screwed in the bugle head screws. This made the old plaster secure. I do this anywhere the old plaster is loose. Strips of perfa tape and screws. Same thing can be done where plaster is getting loose from wood lath. Be sure to hit the wood lath and studs and rafters. Been doing this for nearly 50 years with great results.
I’m a plasterer. Just use base coat plaster to stick drywall to masonry next time. It’s called dry lining in the UK. Mix with less water for more body which gives it better holding power by not sagging. A temporary nail you pull out later can help hold until plaster is set. Leave 1/4” nominal key gaps around perimeter of each piece to lock it in with plaster and no need for tape. Use alum to help set up faster.
This was exactly the video I needed to see! I am about to take down old wallpaper at my parents house and I have feeling a section about this size is “load bearing” so there will be a big hole when I take the paper down! This is pretty much what I thought would need to be done to fix it but really really great to see it demonstrated before I go do it!
Awesome as usual. You may know you’re helpful but you don’t know how much money you have saved me by watching and learning instead of hiring someone. Many thanks!!!
I feel your pain with the 1-5/8" drywall screws into old hard rafter/joists. I typically switch to my impact gun for old framing. As always, you produce great content. You are very informative and I greatly appreciate that you take the time to show us all the tricks of the trade.
I've used plaster washers to hold up loose plaster. They worked well. Have also seen people inject white glue behind loose sections of plaster prior to using the plaster washers. That looks like a situation perfect for using them.
Wow... That's the strongest patch I've ever seen... Nice work... With all your experience and trials and errors - You make it look so easy... Great work...!
you're a skater? makes total sense why your so chill and easy going. good stuff dude. had a water leak here in Texas. i need to repair an 8x6 patch of drywall ceiling due to busted pipe. thanks for your videos homie.
Done a dozen of these repairs over the past 20 years. Glad to see you have a very similar approach. I also left some of the loose stuff up, it did come down a year later. Now, remove all the loose plaster, no matter how inconvenient.
I LOVE Fibafuse. I used it on my sidejobs alot. I only found it at Home Depot or specialty stores though. Like you said it is very east to cut the tape in corners though 🖒. I've never done a plaster job before, good knowledge to have. Keep the bids coming 🖒👊🍻.
I'm self taught at what we call gibstopping and I use the mesh tape for my joins with no problem as of. yet. I've never heard of fibre fuse matting, probably called something different in NZ, looks easier enough to use so I'll be checking that out. But thank you for the advice for this DIYer, I really appreciate these videos you take the time making.
Wally's plaster magic works extremely well too. I had to repair loose sections of walls and used their product. A little on the pricey side, but you won't find anything as good.
I’m so glad I found you and this video. We have a similar repair needed in our living room and have been putting it off due to not sure how to proceed and the fear of hiring someone who would cut corners. So, I have watched this a couple times, and I feel like I can fix the ceiling myself since you provided a ton of amazing advice and recommendations. Fingers crossed- I feel I have some skills but this will be new with plaster!
Exactly the info I need! I recently bought a house that was built in 1922 that is being completely rewired so there’s holes everywhere and I took out some walls and gutted the bathroom.
Bout to do decent amount of repairs on an older house ( Earliy 1900s ) and this is an issue throughout the house ( but in smaller sizes ) nothing this huge. nothing this massive. But im sure the knowledge im getting from your videos will more then be sufficient for the small cracks, crumbling going on. Watched a couple of your videos in preparation. feeling confident i can do it without issue following these guides. Thanks again!
this content is ASMR to me, i would look to see more closer when you are taping and putting the mud!!! It is SOOO SATISFYING i don't know why. I love you and you job Ben! I always laugh, enjoy and learn seeing your videos. I send you a lot a support and love from Argentina!
This is the perfect video for what I'm about to do at my dad's place. He's barely lived there for over 20 years and it's now in terrible condition. Over the last 30 years or so, there have been 3 or 4 leeks from the neighbour's kitchen above and I'm expecting to find a similar plastering issue as in your video. I graduated as a painter earlier in the year and now I'll be putting my skills to the test over the next 3 months as I attempt to repair most of the walls (and some ceilings) in my dad's flat.
Thanks for the tips. I’m living in an old apt that has this type of walls. Actually I would have to repair a surface as big as the one we see in the beginning of the video. Heard about the fiber glass tape, bought a roll and used it a few times to fix cracks in walls (and added compound). True for gloves when using that tape, I would also use a mask, I read small particles can irritate your throat after a while.
Fair warning for those who’ve never worked with stuff like this before. This is the kinda thing where the harder you try to make it look nice putting it on, the worse itll come out. Its better to do multiple thin coats and just let it dry in between. You can always add more later if you need it. The less you put on, the less youll have to sand down. Sanding should just be getting everything smooth and feathered. LIGHT sanding is all that should be required. You dont want to remove too much and expose the tape, since youll just need to add more. Thats why his coats progressively get wider - to allow for a gradual change in thickness to hide the repair. And you dont need to buy all these different mixes with different set times if you’re working at home. You can use general purpose compound and just let it dry overnight between coats. It just takes a little longer. He only uses the different set times so he can do and much as he can in one visit and not have to keep coming back. His time costs money. Your time at home is free.
Set time is one thing, curing is another. Even 20 minute hot mud should be allowed to dry overnight before moving on to the next step, the only thing that hot mud is good for when it comes to saving time is you can put the next layer on faster, but you should still wait overnight before sanding or any type of finish work. I see so many drywall jobs where you can see all the factory joints because someone used hot mud and then sanded it flush the same day, then after they paint it and the mud fully cures it shrinks and you can see the joint when morning or evening light shines through the window and down the walls and ceiling, if they'd have just waited overnight for the mud to fully cure before sanding it you'd never see that. Hot mud has it's up's and down's, it's biggest down is it shrinks a good bit when it cures. And you're right, DIYers should stay away from hot mud, unless you know what you're doing with it you'll create more problems than you'll solve using it.
LMAO !!! That fill Phil joke. You’re the best man. Lotta lath n plaster here in Chicago. Bum ankle right now can’t skate. Fixing up my house. You would be proud of the drywall I did in my bathroom. 1950s Tile went all the way around the room about half way or more up the wall. So I gutted everything up to the tile line then I put in new drywall and taped n floated into the rest of the existing plaster.
Thanks Ben timing on this perfect, just started a drywall/plaster patching project in my house and had just finished fitting the drywall. I’m going to give the wide fibafuse a try for the joints.
This is great for the video! If a custumer calls me for this... I would just install new drywall on top of all the ceilings plaster.. I would also repipe that area to be safe. Great job!👍
Thank you for the video and your methods. Suggestion, When doing overhead plasterwork it's important to wear safety eye protection. Should any plaster material come into contact with your eye you could end up in an emergency room with a Cornea chemical burn. Your eyes don't grow back.
Have had to repair this type of problem a number of times. I used a completely different approach. The first house I had to repair a lath and plaster ceiling on a 120 year old house. The ceiling was a mess. My painter suggested the method I used. I installed (screwed) 2x4's perpendicular to the existing ceiling joists, then installed sheet rock. The project ended up great.
Removed tons of rock lath and plaster and installed drywall throughout my Cape Cod. Not fun at all. Your videos helped me accomplish the drywall. Thanks.
think that ceiling section you're working on is big enough to warrant scaffolding instead of the up and down on the stepladder. beautiful work as usual. I have learned much from your vids
I’m cackling at 24:36 lol. This was very informative! Would have never thought to use the same thickness drywall over the lath. That certainly makes it easier
An oscillating saw with a doll or toothless blade works perfect for plaster. You can score the plaster with it and not cut the lath. It makes putting your quarter inch or three eights inch drywall patch in very easy.
This was so incredibly helpful. Just curious, if the ceiling had a texture to it would you have done? I noticed this ceiling just looked somewhat flat, and if there was a rigid contour would you have to scrape off the texture around the patch?
Yup, scrape off the texture around the patch, add your fill, tape off and float out the repair area flat. Let the patch dry then use all purpose to match (the best you can) the existing texture. Take your time with the patch, go thin on each layer using quick set so that way you don't have to sand much, or at all if you are adding texture. Good luck! 👍
I love your videos. I wish I could skim coat and tape as quickly and as good as you. :) For my 93 year old house, I just cut relatively squarish sections of 1/2 or 5/8'" drywall (my plaster is pretty thick mostly), placed it over the damaged plaster and used a very sharp knife to cut the outline into the plaster, and pulled the pieces off. Wherever the lathe was wet I ran fans until dry, or I just completely replaced it with new dry lathe. Where adjacent plaster had lost its keys I sunk multiple plaster washers until the whole area was secured then taped and mudded everything. Why not use plaster washers yourself?
Was just about to ask, what to do with my 100 y old plaster, it's thicker than 1/4", now I see just use thicker drywall. I didn't want a big dip where the repair is obvious. Thanks
Etzectly same situation in my project what I started yesterday now this video helping me a lot then I thought befre this video makes me good idea Thank you .
Good way of doing a repair, didn't know that in Canada you have the old lath and plaster in some house's, it can be very hard to do these repairs and always good to learn a different way in the UK we normally use plaster and plasterboard/ drywall with skrim to form the joint.
I use Plaster Weld painted on before I skim or fill cracks, creates a tight bond that lasts. I like to use actual plaster too. I only use joint compound mud for very thin skim situations, but still have to be careful as to what brand - some better than others. I never had good luck with that 20 minute or 30 minute joint compound, always seems to crack and come apart, anyway, I stick to plaster for very strong repairs. I also have run into problems with joint compound that starts to soften up after it is dry if painted with water based primer, another reason why I stick to actual plaster. Also, I use oil based primer to seal all new work now, never water based primer anymore. Benjamin mor primer is awesome. Oh well, my two cents.
Would you recommend #6 or #8 screws for really old growth wood studs and joists? And then fine or coarse thread? Typically in woodworking you use finer threads for hardwoods is why I ask, despite them usually being for metal studs with drywall. Thanks.
The main trouble with this video is that with your own experience, you make it look easier than it actually is for the occasional to rarely ever 'diy hole patcher'. Still, I enjoyed it.
Mixing that quick set brings back some memories! Really should wear a dust mask. This is the kind of thing we're your will be coughing up and nose blowing white powder in the evening.
My mom's living room ceiling has been like that for 11 years that I know of. We couldn't find anyone to repair it. They wanted to pull down the whole ceiling. Watching your other videos you must have learned from a master plasterer because drywallers don't do the kind of job you do.
17:15 - That's what she said... It's funny how many guys I talk to that despise finishing walls. But, it's because they don't know how to do it and make their life easy. Instead they either put it on too thick and sand for hours, or they put it on too thin leaving exposed tape and other high spots. Great tutorial! I did have a question though, normally when I have a gap 1/8th inch or more like your sheetrock to plaster gap, I use plaster to fill it or compound tends to crack. It seems like your fast set compound and glue will also fill those large gaps and not crack?? Just curious...
I use a paint brush with a slurry that's wetter than the normal mix and painted onto the lathe. Then I use a first layer of plaster or plaster of Paris do a second coat the next day and that's followed with a wall compound over the entire surface. Let dry. Do final skim wall compound. Sand entire wall. Use damp cloth... I use a thin terry cloth
Ive a big hole in the ceiling, well there soon will be when I remove the mess some else did before hand to repair it. Iam not the best DIY person. However, after this Iam certainly going to have a go. Will have to look and see if I can get the same products in the UK; or something similar. It was a lath and plaster finish that fell in and someone stuck up a piece of plasterboard that was to thick and did not get finished off very well. There was no tape in the repair and it was barely skimmed. Hopefully Ill do a better job than that. Thanks for the inspiration.
Love the pencil happiness, I get it! Yep I ran into 1 of theese hidden by a drop ceiling ×10 time worse the lathe hangs all over its 1 of those you call a recover ,but it has a drop to hide the disaster,and the drop ceiling really wants to be a fall on you're head ceiling
We bought a whole house that looked like that ceiling... 2 bedroom two-story built in 1890... Well about 2 months later no more lathe or plaster... Had same issue in one room where chimney had leaked for years.
New subscriber here and wanted to say thanks for all your videos and after watching you attempt to screw that first drywall down I now don't feel so bad about my drywall attaching abilities :)
I literally just thumbs up every video this guy makes before I even watch it as I know it’s gonna be good
I love how you keep your errors in the videos. Makes them so much better than most others, AND it makes me feel less bad about my mistakes. But only because you're such a boss
Sqaursh it!
I don’t . Hope he stop fkn around so I can hurry tf up and learn
@@ShadowWalker8 Him showing how he solves his mistakes is the best form of learning, because you're sure as fuck to make those mistakes if he can.
I do this work for a living and I still enjoy watching videos of others doing the same. weird, right? I have to say that substituting drywall for real plaster has really become the easiest and quickest way to repair these ailing ceilings. If I were to offer one suggestion and it's small, I have had great success with back laminating the drywall panels with durabond. this would especially be helpful on the edges or were drywall screws aren't properly anchored. the durabond also forms new keys to act as a fail safe and give you hands free screwing. when doing this, you would obviously have to dust off and use plaster weld or other pva for superior bond. just a thought...not saying my way is better..just another way. keep up the good work!
Great Idea !! Thanks for posting !!!
Thanks for the tip.
Same I do drywall on my own and i still watch. I always doubt myself so it's nice to have refreshers and still learn new stuff with his videos.
Same, I'm a traditional plasterer using wattle and daub with a goat hair lime putty and sand render, can't beat the old method of plastering!!
@@jamespoulton915 kudos to you! you are a dying breed.
OMGOSH!!! You couldn’t have had this problem about a month ago? My husband and I took all the plaster and lath off of a wall in our bedroom because we had old water damage behind wallpaper and part of the wall was crumbling off on one side. We ended up putting drywall over the entire wall and now I’ve finished fixing all the cracks in the other 2 plaster walls, I even floated out the bottom of the wall from the baseboards to even out the walls AFTER watching your videos. Thank you for passing along your knowledge to us “newbies” with home improvements.
I found a similar issue at my girlfriends house that had been left unrepaired for years. I did the same kind of repair you did and it turned out awesome. Great knowledge shared here.
This video has saved me thousands of dollars patching plaster in my 100 year old home. Thank you SO MUCH!!
It’s best & easier to just cover it with 1/4 drywall & be done with it.
Am a BIG fan of your work, and especially now since I have a near IDENTICAL patch to fix in my OWN kitchen ceiling. And now I know how, thanks to you! Keep making these videos! Frankly I don’t know why you don’t have your own show on TV yet. You’d be brilliant.
He’s so cheerful! I’m never this cheerful dealing with plaster.
Thank you for being authentic and not editing the screw blunders out…. Helps some of us not feel so inadequate… lol
Don't need to time lapse..it's a pleasure watching a PRO do such a fine job. Only one humiliating moment..:( Fill (Phil) :D LOL waiting for the next tutorial!
I enjoy watching him real time and his banter, but the time lapse is fun, too. I like seeing it all come together so quickly.
I have a 95 year old house that needed this same repair and there were also a number of loose spots in different rooms. I did not tear out and replace the loose areas with drywall, I simply screwed the loose spots back in place, which is far quicker, easier, and in my opinion, a much better repair because my walls have a nice rough texture that is very difficult to replicate. This repair has held up perfectly for 20 years now. They even make plaster repair washers for this purpose, but I didn't even use them, I just used drywall screws.
Great video. As someone who has done repairs for decades I enjoy learning new tips. The only thing in this video that threw me off is ' the leak is probably from bad flashing that will soon be addressed '. ALWAYS find and repair the leak issue before repairing plaster/drywall. Your now 'stronger than original ' plaster repair will simply spread the leak damage even further if the leak is not addressed first. Many times I have had roofers that need several attempts to 'find the true leak problem ', especially when dealing with 'old roof systems, which is basically any structure that used 'plaster.
Thank you thank youuu. I really needed to see this as I’m a single mother and 1st time homeowner attempting to do some DIY projects. So far most have been successful thanks to Google and UA-cam. Good job sir.
We have an old house with a plaster ceiling that is falling down. It has been like a glacier for years, but now it is time to repair. Our contractor neighbor said we should sheet the whole cieling. I'm too cheap and after watching this video, I actually think I could do the repair myself. Won't look nearly as good as yours, but way better than a whole in the cieling threatening to fall on us in our sleep. Thanks for the demo and easy steps. I truly had no idea what to do all these years. I did not want to tear the whole thing down and start over.
I have never thought of using a tape measure and knife like that to cut plasterboard before lol. Awesome!
Great video! I restored 8 historic homes and this is what we did, but you did it even better. Thank you!
thank you for this! first time home owner here currently literally in the thick of it. appreciate all of your videos!
Dude, I love when you laugh at yourself. Sooo, realistic and actually what happens all the time. No editing please, it is so helpful. I've been there with all the things that can happen. Great work!!
I can’t tell you how many times I wish that I had someone else to clean up at the end of the day. Great job on this patch. As usual, very instructional.
Thank you!
I successfully patched a 2X2 hole in the ceiling, following your suggestions, and it went very well. Thanks for these videos!
I used construction adhesive and masonry nails to attach drywall to a concrete block wall for a massive patch. Your previous videos helped me finish it nice. Thanks!
Nice work!
In a case like this , I would have used Masonary screws . Screws that would be self tapping with a bugle head. The bugle head is flat and has a wide head that grips more plaster under it’s rim. These screws can be screwed in , without the heavy pounding on frail plaster . I have also skimmed hot mud with glue mixed in , on to the plaster 8” from the raw edge . I then embedded perfa tape in to the wet hot mud , then let it dry, after which I screwed in the bugle head screws. This made the old plaster secure. I do this anywhere the old plaster is loose. Strips of perfa tape and screws. Same thing can be done where plaster is getting loose from wood lath. Be sure to hit the wood lath and studs and rafters. Been doing this for nearly 50 years with great results.
I’m a plasterer. Just use base coat plaster to stick drywall to masonry next time. It’s called dry lining in the UK. Mix with less water for more body which gives it better holding power by not sagging. A temporary nail you pull out later can help hold until plaster is set. Leave 1/4” nominal key gaps around perimeter of each piece to lock it in with plaster and no need for tape. Use alum to help set up faster.
Great job. I’ve been a renovator for over 15 years and I still love these videos and Learn a thing or two. Thanks VC
This was exactly the video I needed to see! I am about to take down old wallpaper at my parents house and I have feeling a section about this size is “load bearing” so there will be a big hole when I take the paper down! This is pretty much what I thought would need to be done to fix it but really really great to see it demonstrated before I go do it!
Awesome as usual. You may know you’re helpful but you don’t know how much money you have saved me by watching and learning instead of hiring someone. Many thanks!!!
Glad to help
I feel your pain with the 1-5/8" drywall screws into old hard rafter/joists. I typically switch to my impact gun for old framing.
As always, you produce great content. You are very informative and I greatly appreciate that you take the time to show us all the tricks of the trade.
I've used plaster washers to hold up loose plaster. They worked well. Have also seen people inject white glue behind loose sections of plaster prior to using the plaster washers. That looks like a situation perfect for using them.
Yup. I got 100 of them from Lee Valley. They recess in nicely. And hold the pulled away plaster firmly back to the lathe. Good tip.
Wow... That's the strongest patch I've ever seen... Nice work... With all your experience and trials and errors - You make it look so easy... Great work...!
Funny, fastening drywall is easy and quick when nobody is looking. So, it's a good laugh when the pressure is on. Keep up the good videos. 👍👍
Very true!
you're a skater? makes total sense why your so chill and easy going. good stuff dude. had a water leak here in Texas. i need to repair an 8x6 patch of drywall ceiling due to busted pipe. thanks for your videos homie.
Thank you for this video. We have detached plaster on our church and you have shown us what needs to bedone to correct it.
Done a dozen of these repairs over the past 20 years. Glad to see you have a very similar approach. I also left some of the loose stuff up, it did come down a year later. Now, remove all the loose plaster, no matter how inconvenient.
Is that drywall that he cut?
Thank's dude! I'm a professional debuting in renovation. I appreciate your video's 🇿🇦
That fibafuse is awesome! Thanks for introducing it to me. I have an old house with a lot of plaster repair. It has helped a bunch!
I LOVE Fibafuse. I used it on my sidejobs alot. I only found it at Home Depot or specialty stores though. Like you said it is very east to cut the tape in corners though 🖒. I've never done a plaster job before, good knowledge to have. Keep the bids coming 🖒👊🍻.
I'm self taught at what we call gibstopping and I use the mesh tape for my joins with no problem as of. yet. I've never heard of fibre fuse matting, probably called something different in NZ, looks easier enough to use so I'll be checking that out. But thank you for the advice for this DIYer, I really appreciate these videos you take the time making.
FibaFuse is avaiable in Australia under that name exactly. Bunnings sell it. I believe Bunnings is in NZ Good luck.
@@Paul-kw1og Yip Bunnings is over here. Thanks for that mate.
Wally's plaster magic works extremely well too. I had to repair loose sections of walls and used their product. A little on the pricey side, but you won't find anything as good.
I’m so glad I found you and this video. We have a similar repair needed in our living room and have been putting it off due to not sure how to proceed and the fear of hiring someone who would cut corners. So, I have watched this a couple times, and I feel like I can fix the ceiling myself since you provided a ton of amazing advice and recommendations. Fingers crossed- I feel I have some skills but this will be new with plaster!
Well, it's a year later? How'd it go?
Exactly the info I need! I recently bought a house that was built in 1922 that is being completely rewired so there’s holes everywhere and I took out some walls and gutted the bathroom.
You been youtubing your process? I just bought a 1910 Victorian will be doing the same. Would love to hear and see what you've been doing.
Thanks for being genuine... you're a great teacher.
Bout to do decent amount of repairs on an older house ( Earliy 1900s ) and this is an issue throughout the house ( but in smaller sizes ) nothing this huge. nothing this massive.
But im sure the knowledge im getting from your videos will more then be sufficient for the small cracks, crumbling going on.
Watched a couple of your videos in preparation. feeling confident i can do it without issue following these guides.
Thanks again!
this content is ASMR to me, i would look to see more closer when you are taping and putting the mud!!! It is SOOO SATISFYING i don't know why. I love you and you job Ben! I always laugh, enjoy and learn seeing your videos. I send you a lot a support and love from Argentina!
So wish I bumped into your videos 8 months ago, but glad I found you now! Thank you for taking time to make these videos!
This is the perfect video for what I'm about to do at my dad's place. He's barely lived there for over 20 years and it's now in terrible condition. Over the last 30 years or so, there have been 3 or 4 leeks from the neighbour's kitchen above and I'm expecting to find a similar plastering issue as in your video. I graduated as a painter earlier in the year and now I'll be putting my skills to the test over the next 3 months as I attempt to repair most of the walls (and some ceilings) in my dad's flat.
This video just saved my a lot of time and money! You're awesome!!
WOW, I love this video it help me to repair my ceiling at home. Thanks
Thanks for the tips. I’m living in an old apt that has this type of walls. Actually I would have to repair a surface as big as the one we see in the beginning of
the video. Heard about the fiber glass tape, bought a roll and used it a few times to fix cracks in walls (and added compound). True for gloves when using that
tape, I would also use a mask, I read small particles can irritate your throat after a while.
As someone who skates AND has an old house in need of plaster/lathe repair this is the best cross over I could ever imagine
Fair warning for those who’ve never worked with stuff like this before. This is the kinda thing where the harder you try to make it look nice putting it on, the worse itll come out. Its better to do multiple thin coats and just let it dry in between. You can always add more later if you need it. The less you put on, the less youll have to sand down. Sanding should just be getting everything smooth and feathered. LIGHT sanding is all that should be required. You dont want to remove too much and expose the tape, since youll just need to add more. Thats why his coats progressively get wider - to allow for a gradual change in thickness to hide the repair. And you dont need to buy all these different mixes with different set times if you’re working at home. You can use general purpose compound and just let it dry overnight between coats. It just takes a little longer. He only uses the different set times so he can do and much as he can in one visit and not have to keep coming back. His time costs money. Your time at home is free.
Set time is one thing, curing is another.
Even 20 minute hot mud should be allowed to dry overnight before moving on to the next step, the only thing that hot mud is good for when it comes to saving time is you can put the next layer on faster, but you should still wait overnight before sanding or any type of finish work.
I see so many drywall jobs where you can see all the factory joints because someone used hot mud and then sanded it flush the same day, then after they paint it and the mud fully cures it shrinks and you can see the joint when morning or evening light shines through the window and down the walls and ceiling, if they'd have just waited overnight for the mud to fully cure before sanding it you'd never see that.
Hot mud has it's up's and down's, it's biggest down is it shrinks a good bit when it cures.
And you're right, DIYers should stay away from hot mud, unless you know what you're doing with it you'll create more problems than you'll solve using it.
It’s best & easier to just cover it with 1/4 drywall & be done with it.
Thank you so much for the advice. Thus, it will help me with my project; similar to this one.
You are awesome guy, thanks for teaching and lecturing, learned a lot from you. Greetings from Serbia, small country in midle/ South Europe :)
terrific video. first-timer, here. you make this look easy.
LMAO !!! That fill Phil joke. You’re the best man. Lotta lath n plaster here in Chicago. Bum ankle right now can’t skate. Fixing up my house. You would be proud of the drywall I did in my bathroom. 1950s Tile went all the way around the room about half way or more up the wall. So I gutted everything up to the tile line then I put in new drywall and taped n floated into the rest of the existing plaster.
Thanks Ben timing on this perfect, just started a drywall/plaster patching project in my house and had just finished fitting the drywall. I’m going to give the wide fibafuse a try for the joints.
This is great for the video! If a custumer calls me for this... I would just install new drywall on top of all the ceilings plaster.. I would also repipe that area to be safe. Great job!👍
Thank you for the video and your methods. Suggestion, When doing overhead plasterwork it's important to wear safety eye protection. Should any plaster material come into contact with your eye you could end up in an emergency room with a Cornea chemical burn. Your eyes don't grow back.
Great job you actually show what it's like to actually do the job because nothing is perfect and everything is not Square thank you
A very likeable pro making it easy to understand THANKS
Have had to repair this type of problem a number of times. I used a completely different approach. The first house I had to repair a lath and plaster ceiling on a 120 year old house. The ceiling was a mess. My painter suggested the method I used. I installed (screwed) 2x4's perpendicular to the existing ceiling joists, then installed sheet rock. The project ended up great.
Removed tons of rock lath and plaster and installed drywall throughout my Cape Cod. Not fun at all. Your videos helped me accomplish the drywall. Thanks.
Thank you for being that person on youtube to teach this.
Awesome repair. I know plaster and drywall work together but I never repaired plaster plaster b4. 👍🏻 good job
Thanks 👍
Thanks so much for your advice, knowledge, and humble nature. You are my go-to when I need assistance with drywall/plaster projects.
think that ceiling section you're working on is big enough to warrant scaffolding instead of the up and down on the stepladder. beautiful work as usual. I have learned much from your vids
Thanks for this helpful video. Couldn't find anyone else. Just trying to join the good to the bad in my old house 😊
Thanks for keeping the little missteps in there. Nice to see that even the pros can experience some hiccups.
I’m cackling at 24:36 lol. This was very informative! Would have never thought to use the same thickness drywall over the lath. That certainly makes it easier
An oscillating saw with a doll or toothless blade works perfect for plaster. You can score the plaster with it and not cut the lath. It makes putting your quarter inch or three eights inch drywall patch in very easy.
I love you videos and your humor. Thank you for all of them.
This was so incredibly helpful. Just curious, if the ceiling had a texture to it would you have done? I noticed this ceiling just looked somewhat flat, and if there was a rigid contour would you have to scrape off the texture around the patch?
Yup, scrape off the texture around the patch, add your fill, tape off and float out the repair area flat. Let the patch dry then use all purpose to match (the best you can) the existing texture. Take your time with the patch, go thin on each layer using quick set so that way you don't have to sand much, or at all if you are adding texture. Good luck! 👍
See Jane Drill has a great video on texture patches. You can buy texture in a spray can apparently.
@@lucash1980 thanks!
good stuff man ... i do this for a living and you did a super job explaining
If I lived near you I would work with you for free just to learn. Awesome. Easily my one of my favorite channels.
I love your videos. I wish I could skim coat and tape as quickly and as good as you. :)
For my 93 year old house, I just cut relatively squarish sections of 1/2 or 5/8'" drywall (my plaster is pretty thick mostly), placed it over the damaged plaster and used a very sharp knife to cut the outline into the plaster, and pulled the pieces off. Wherever the lathe was wet I ran fans until dry, or I just completely replaced it with new dry lathe. Where adjacent plaster had lost its keys I sunk multiple plaster washers until the whole area was secured then taped and mudded everything. Why not use plaster washers yourself?
Was just about to ask, what to do with my 100 y old plaster, it's thicker than 1/4", now I see just use thicker drywall. I didn't want a big dip where the repair is obvious. Thanks
Etzectly same situation in my project what I started yesterday now this video helping me a lot then I thought befre this video makes me good idea
Thank you .
Good way of doing a repair, didn't know that in Canada you have the old lath and plaster in some house's, it can be very hard to do these repairs and always good to learn a different way in the UK we normally use plaster and plasterboard/ drywall with skrim to form the joint.
Sir. You’re a very good instructor.
I use Plaster Weld painted on before I skim or fill cracks, creates a tight bond that lasts. I like to use actual plaster too. I only use joint compound mud for very thin skim situations, but still have to be careful as to what brand - some better than others. I never had good luck with that 20 minute or 30 minute joint compound, always seems to crack and come apart, anyway, I stick to plaster for very strong repairs. I also have run into problems with joint compound that starts to soften up after it is dry if painted with water based primer, another reason why I stick to actual plaster. Also, I use oil based primer to seal all new work now, never water based primer anymore. Benjamin mor primer is awesome. Oh well, my two cents.
Awesome as usual VC. But you had me rollin with the whole screw and ceiling part of this video. It was so hilarious. Hope you are doing well.
you did an excellent job. clear instructions make it look simple, not too hard for a guy like me. lol. thanks
This was a great tutorial, I’m gonna be fixing a ceiling on my third floor and now I know how! No need to hire someone
I like the way you explain every detail.
I enjoy watching your videos. Thank you blessings to all you guys!!
Great job Mr. Ben, thank you for sharing, keep safe and enjoy life.
It would be great to get pix of the painted project. Some of us are fully addicted to the before/after.
As always, fantastic work.
Would you recommend #6 or #8 screws for really old growth wood studs and joists? And then fine or coarse thread? Typically in woodworking you use finer threads for hardwoods is why I ask, despite them usually being for metal studs with drywall. Thanks.
Nice job. I was expecting a plaster repair of a plaster ceiling, but it looks like using drywall is the way to go. 👍
Awesome work and even better teaching as always, keep up to great work!!!
The main trouble with this video is that with your own experience, you make it look easier than it actually is for the occasional to rarely ever 'diy hole patcher'. Still, I enjoyed it.
Great video thank you quick question what's the name of the glue you used
Great video, are you ever concerned about asbestos when working on older homes? especially with friable plaster or older compound?
Great style to your vids. Honest commentary with gaffes included. BTW great substance for fixing problem
Mixing that quick set brings back some memories! Really should wear a dust mask. This is the kind of thing we're your will be coughing up and nose blowing white powder in the evening.
Thank you for making this video. I always try to support with the affiliate links. You should link the mud and glue as well.
My mom's living room ceiling has been like that for 11 years that I know of. We couldn't find anyone to repair it. They wanted to pull down the whole ceiling. Watching your other videos you must have learned from a master plasterer because drywallers don't do the kind of job you do.
You make it look so easy. Nice job, and thanks for making this video.
Wish you'd come rescue my poor old house. Ran out of energy, money and enthusiasm!! But...I just say it's new decor!
17:15 - That's what she said... It's funny how many guys I talk to that despise finishing walls. But, it's because they don't know how to do it and make their life easy. Instead they either put it on too thick and sand for hours, or they put it on too thin leaving exposed tape and other high spots. Great tutorial!
I did have a question though, normally when I have a gap 1/8th inch or more like your sheetrock to plaster gap, I use plaster to fill it or compound tends to crack. It seems like your fast set compound and glue will also fill those large gaps and not crack?? Just curious...
I use a paint brush with a slurry that's wetter than the normal mix and painted onto the lathe. Then I use a first layer of plaster or plaster of Paris do a second coat the next day and that's followed with a wall compound over the entire surface. Let dry. Do final skim wall compound. Sand entire wall. Use damp cloth... I use a thin terry cloth
Ive a big hole in the ceiling, well there soon will be when I remove the mess some else did before hand to repair it. Iam not the best DIY person. However, after this Iam certainly going to have a go. Will have to look and see if I can get the same products in the UK; or something similar. It was a lath and plaster finish that fell in and someone stuck up a piece of plasterboard that was to thick and did not get finished off very well. There was no tape in the repair and it was barely skimmed. Hopefully Ill do a better job than that. Thanks for the inspiration.
Love the pencil happiness, I get it!
Yep I ran into 1 of theese hidden by a drop ceiling ×10 time worse the lathe hangs all over its 1 of those you call a recover ,but it has a drop to hide the disaster,and the drop ceiling really wants to be a fall on you're head ceiling
Thanks so much bro I appreciate all the info, you really helped my dad and I!
We bought a whole house that looked like that ceiling... 2 bedroom two-story built in 1890... Well about 2 months later no more lathe or plaster... Had same issue in one room where chimney had leaked for years.
New subscriber here and wanted to say thanks for all your videos and after watching you attempt to screw that first drywall down I now don't feel so bad about
my drywall attaching abilities :)