Stihl offers both the green and yellow chains in RS and RM. cutting speed is effected 100% by the cutter style and NOT the raker. The raker is a depth gauge and is set to the same dimension regardless of yellow or green. There for among comparable chain pitch and gauge, you are essentially taking the same size “bite”. RS vs RM is also what determines how long it will hold an edge for, again, not yellow vs green. Yellow will plunge cut better then green. I have so many customers that come in wanting a yellow chain because “green chains are junk”but have no clue of the difference between RM and RS. Sorry but I really wished you did this test with both RM or RS. I bet you would see much more similar cutting times.
If your just cutting firewood it makes no difference if your using green or yellow chain as long as its the same cutter. Full and semi chisel are available on both. Stihl also offers a green or yellow bar. The green bar has a smaller diameter tip to help prevent kickback even more. The only difference the green and yellow chain makes is your ability to efficiently do plunge and bore cuts
Kick back is also reduced using skip tooth chains over full comp. Retired logger. Run full comp chisel on all my saws. Unnecessary and unneeded for those cutting firewood for personal use, farm use, home use, etc..
Chain speed is what does the cut. Less load on the engine with the green chain therefore faster cutting speed. With the 9 inch log the yellow won because the bar wasn't fully loaded and more aggressive cut. If your chain stalls in the cut while cutting the log then you don't have enough power. 029 Stihl is a great firewood saw.
yeah, i was also thinking about the temp of the saw- for example, the first 9" he used the green chain to cut it right? so the saw was at temp for sure by the time he got to the yellow. however, if the times are really that close, no sense in taking the risk of the harder kick back . ( imo) i really saw the saw jump with that yellow on the second pass of the big log. However, it was awesome video, thanks for your observation.
All the green link chains are RM3. RM is a semi chisel chain has curved cutter. RS is a full chisel chain has a squared cutter and is faster in the cut removing material. I use RS chains in good clean wood or felling. RM for bucking or cutting dirty wood RM chains will hold a edge longer in hard wood where a RS will cut faster and dull quicker
Green for dirty wood. Yellow for clean wood. Kickback is managed by the operator. Always have a healthy fear of the saw at all times because complacency kills.
No, no no one is a full chisel chain and other one is a semi chisel chain. The anti-kickback is only effective at the tip of the chain when it rounds the tip is where you get a kickback. The second Raker on the low kickback chain is there to hinge upwards as the blade rounds the tip to prevent the chain grabbing the timber and causing kickback. The semi chisel chain is better at cutting longer because it is very forgiving but is a bit slower than a full chisel as a full chisel relies on its sharp point which can be easily dulled. Also, you cannot plunge cut effectively with a low kickback chain.I would just use a straight semi chisel it has less kickback because it's less aggressive and also better for a lower powered chainsaw especially if you're trying to use a longer bar rather than using the more aggressive full chisel.
Thanks for the demo and thorough explanation. I never understand why anyone cuts cookies, if you’re cutting firewood, just cut it. 16”, 18”, 20” 🤷♂️thanks again 🤙
Great point! The cookies were just for demonstration in the video. If I worked my way down the log 16" at a time, someone would complain that the tree was different diameters during the tests of the chains. :)
I have a 20" bar on my ms291. Never had any issues- save that apparently I can't sharpen worth a damn... Cutting semi dry Ash, and older Honey Locust. Both of which are hard on teeth... I did just buy an 18" as a second bar, in case I get really stuck. We'll see if and how that changes the saw's performance. Cutting in piles, I worry about how much of the bar is sticking out beyond the log- and what it might be contacting... I do have a second saw with a 16" bar, that seems to cut faster in this wood. It's chain is also narrower, so the saw isn't cutting as much wood. It's only issue is that it's battery powered, so the big logs drain the battery quickly. Those colored master links are a stroke of genius! They make it way easier when sharpening to determine where you started. I have to use a sharpie on my other saw.
I worry about that same thing with the longer bar - what else am I cutting into? The ground, another limb of the tree, a rock. So I intend to use the longer bar only when needed on the bigger rounds. Other than that, I'll switch back to the 16" or 18" bar for bucking up the smaller trees. Thanks for watching!
@@PurpleCollarLife I had to put some tension on a small sycamore since it was so close to my garage. And because of that when I went to cut a wedge it locked my saw up tighter than a gnats a$$, so I had to finish it with an ax. And as a result buy a new chain. But no building damage.
One is a square chisel tooth yellow chain and other is rounded tooth green chain. Just cut extra raker next to the normal raker and it’ll help some but the rounded tooth is never going to not suck!
Ty very much for the upload and doing the comparison. Awesome time stamping and links etc. Much appreciated. Fair tests should control variables but a little lack of control in this one allowed the kick backs on the yellow chain in the big log, which made it cut slower than the green and possibly showed how a powerful saw is needed if using full chisel chain. If the large diameter log was trimmed to allow the bar to go through in one smooth cut then the yellow might still have been slower. I say this because a forester's vid basically said full chisel needs a 70cc saw to pull the more aggressive full chisel. MS 290 is about 55cc so it had enough power in the smaller log but perhaps not in the 20" plus log. I use a 291, 20" bar, .325 semi chisel in various Australian hard and soft woods, green and dry. 290/291 is a versatile saw. Cheers Sincerely d
The reduction of chisel less width. Notice the 46deg bevel on the outside of the tooth. is how they achieve low kickback. Some saws actually cut slower with yellow chain because they don’t have the power to pull it.
No sprocket tip...type of bar oil and outside temp....didn't see much use of the dog but the saw seems to bog more with the chisel cut chain. Not trying to nit pick but these things can make a difference. More powerful saw will take better advantage of the chain throwing bigger chips. Still good info on the differences, and perhaps do an amended video with more powerful saw with both chains and a full chisel chain....lastly, toss in the cost differences on the chains.
Full chisel will be measurably faster as you go up in saw size. MS462 is much faster with a full chisel. On the smaller saws it doesn't seem to make much difference.
That's a tough question. I don't know anything about Misquite trees or your skill level. Are they a hardwood or a softwood? If you're an experienced saw operator, the yellow chain may cut faster. If you're more of a novice, I'd always recommend the green chain. Thanks for watching!
@@PurpleCollarLife I agree with you, I've seen a chainsaw kickback accident, the fella made it to the hospital on time, ripped his face and cheek. I found the cheek part the next day.
This is a match between semi chisel and full chisel chains. The chain character difference between the low kickback chains, is an extra bumper. The extra bumper has less of a tendency to grab as it moves round the tip. Though the green chains are less likely to kickback, this is not guaranteed. Plus the extra bumper makes the chain less suitable for plunge/boring cuts. The answer to minimising the likelihood of kickback. Is training, knowing where the upper quadrant of the bar’s tip is in relation to solid matter and or potential pinch-points. The text on the yellow chain box, states that saws under 3.8 cubic inches. (3.8 cubic inches = 62.2708cc.) So Stihl is saying the likes of their MS291, MS271, MS260, MS261, MS362; Husqvarna 550XP, 560XP, 562XP; Echo CS-501SX, CS-621SX must all be used solely with green/low kickback chains. I think that is condescending to say the least.
I haven’t found one yet but does anyone know if there is a company ghat makes semi chisel chains without the extra low kickback links? I just prefer semi or micro chisel. I cut a-lot of dirty and wet stuff
@@PurpleCollarLife Take a look at what the rakers do around the tip as they roll around. they cover more area and the chain cuts a lot less I had to plunge cut doing a back cut first on a tree and thats when I noticed
@PurpleCollarLife I ordered 2 chains off Amazon for 20" bar but it was for a stihl 034 but had to go back on the site I ordered them on just to get info on them even the stihl boxes had no info so I had to write it on the boxes they didn't have the yellow marker on the chain or box. But the with of link is different than on the 20" bar on my new stihl ms271 cause it came with 2 green chains so now I am wondering if they will work on the new 271 bar? On this old one that I hope is a 034 stihl saw I bought from a pawn shop but once I thought it to be a 029 or 038 but parts were mixed on it. But my best conclusion even after taking it to a stihl dealer and he was not sure either but thought it to be a 038 but I found that was wrong to and seems to me it's an 034. Got it running good once but allowed a guy to use it and returned it where it would not run ay all. So now I got it completely broke down so I am just going to try to rebuild it all as a 034. One sticker shows 311y chain cover shows 021 but carb and filter and design of Chasey appears to be an 034 so I am just kind of stuck with that.
I have always found rocking the bar up and done you cut faster because you are able to maintain the RPMs. Bogging the engine down is just killing it and not allowing it to cut as fast. jmo I have a Stihl 036 Pro with a 20 inch bar. Cuts wood like butter.
Wait - you can use an Oregon chain on a Stihl saw, in Pennsylvania? :) Just playing - I've used the Oregon chains in the past and have been happy with them. But we have a great family-owned local Stihl dealership that I like to support.
is the "farm boss" designation for just the bar? and the difference is that its got a slight curve to it right? Is that really beneficial? seems like it would be...I ask because my ms291 has a 20" straight bar thats coming up on needed a replacement, wondering if I can or should go to one of those curved bars? ps-- the "sure" after "thats why you should be wearing your helmet" cracked me up!🤣
Farm boss is the MS271 model currently (the powerhead and the bar combined). This is a farm/ranch grade chainsaw. I also have the MS290 - previous version of the Farm Boss. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a "curve" to the bar. It should cut through the wood straight (if the chain is sharpened properly).
@@PurpleCollarLife sorry, I didn't describe the feature well...at all 🤦♂ The curve I was referencing was the variance in the height of the bar across its length. For example, my 291 has a 20" bar. in the middle is just shy of 3", but near the ends it tapers out to ~2.25". To my eye, those farm boss bars look like that taper is steeper. ie even taller in the middle. am I just imagining that?
Farm boss is a marketing term that’s been in use for almost 50 years across various saws. Nothing more, nothing less. The only difference in the bar is that it says farm boss on it vs not. Chain pitch, gauge, and drive link count are identical.
@@hometowndiy9109 really? I dont actually have a farm boss to measure...but it really looks the ratio of the bar height in the middle vs at the ends is greater on the farmboss bars. All of this specs you listed could be the same, just on a bar with more curvature....
It is! I know that some "chainsaw aficionados" like to look for these old MS290s used at garage sales, estate sales, and auctions. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! A 20-inch bar is certainly at the edge of the ability for the MS290 (56CC, 3.8 HP). Especially when you're cutting through Oak. But you use what you have a lot of the time. :)
If my wife ever watched what goes on while cutting up an 80ft water oak with 24” limb bases splayed in every direction she would sell all my equipment and lock me in the house. Maybe she got the danger notice but didn’t ask when I had her order my new first aid clip on bag complete with tourniquets, heavy dressings and quick clot. Safety First!
@@PurpleCollarLife For me not real experience so I would go with less kickback. But like the other the way it had extra tooth and you said it sharpen back to like new.
Stihl offers both the green and yellow chains in RS and RM. cutting speed is effected 100% by the cutter style and NOT the raker. The raker is a depth gauge and is set to the same dimension regardless of yellow or green. There for among comparable chain pitch and gauge, you are essentially taking the same size “bite”. RS vs RM is also what determines how long it will hold an edge for, again, not yellow vs green. Yellow will plunge cut better then green. I have so many customers that come in wanting a yellow chain because “green chains are junk”but have no clue of the difference between RM and RS. Sorry but I really wished you did this test with both RM or RS. I bet you would see much more similar cutting times.
Interesting. Like I mentioned in the video - I was trying to explain the safety difference between the two types of chains.
I’ll summit up in half a minute, yellow chain is high kick back cuts faster, green chain reduced kick back cut slower!.
Nice summary.
One is for felling and one is for bucking , bore cutting you want a low kicking less aggressive chain
If your just cutting firewood it makes no difference if your using green or yellow chain as long as its the same cutter. Full and semi chisel are available on both. Stihl also offers a green or yellow bar. The green bar has a smaller diameter tip to help prevent kickback even more. The only difference the green and yellow chain makes is your ability to efficiently do plunge and bore cuts
The saw needs an adjustment to the high idle, sounded like it needed more fuel in the wood.
Thanks!
Kick back is also reduced using skip tooth chains over full comp. Retired logger. Run full comp chisel on all my saws. Unnecessary and unneeded for those cutting firewood for personal use, farm use, home use, etc..
Thanks for sharing. I figured for a non-professional firewood cutter like myself - the safer the better. :)
Chain speed is what does the cut. Less load on the engine with the green chain therefore faster cutting speed. With the 9 inch log the yellow won because the bar wasn't fully loaded and more aggressive cut. If your chain stalls in the cut while cutting the log then you don't have enough power. 029 Stihl is a great firewood saw.
Thanks for making the point about chain speed!
yeah, i was also thinking about the temp of the saw- for example, the first 9" he used the green chain to cut it right? so the saw was at temp for sure by the time he got to the yellow. however, if the times are really that close, no sense in taking the risk of the harder kick back . ( imo) i really saw the saw jump with that yellow on the second pass of the big log. However, it was awesome video, thanks for your observation.
I have a Stihl 271 farm boss 20" and I run green, low kick. Safety over production. It only takes once.
The yellow chain doesn’t kick back unless you just don’t know how to use it
All the green link chains are RM3. RM is a semi chisel chain has curved cutter. RS is a full chisel chain has a squared cutter and is faster in the cut removing material. I use RS chains in good clean wood or felling. RM for bucking or cutting dirty wood RM
chains will hold a edge longer in hard wood where a RS will cut faster and dull quicker
Thanks!
Green for dirty wood. Yellow for clean wood. Kickback is managed by the operator. Always have a healthy fear of the saw at all times because complacency kills.
No, no no one is a full chisel chain and other one is a semi chisel chain. The anti-kickback is only effective at the tip of the chain when it rounds the tip is where you get a kickback. The second Raker on the low kickback chain is there to hinge upwards as the blade rounds the tip to prevent the chain grabbing the timber and causing kickback. The semi chisel chain is better at cutting longer because it is very forgiving but is a bit slower than a full chisel as a full chisel relies on its sharp point which can be easily dulled. Also, you cannot plunge cut effectively with a low kickback chain.I would just use a straight semi chisel it has less kickback because it's less aggressive and also better for a lower powered chainsaw especially if you're trying to use a longer bar rather than using the more aggressive full chisel.
Thanks for the demo and thorough explanation. I never understand why anyone cuts cookies, if you’re cutting firewood, just cut it. 16”, 18”, 20” 🤷♂️thanks again 🤙
Great point! The cookies were just for demonstration in the video. If I worked my way down the log 16" at a time, someone would complain that the tree was different diameters during the tests of the chains. :)
@@PurpleCollarLife
Some of us get that it was a demonstration.
Thanks for sharing.
If you don't have equipment, it's very hard to move 6" cookies if they're 12 feet around.
I have a 20" bar on my ms291. Never had any issues- save that apparently I can't sharpen worth a damn... Cutting semi dry Ash, and older Honey Locust. Both of which are hard on teeth... I did just buy an 18" as a second bar, in case I get really stuck. We'll see if and how that changes the saw's performance. Cutting in piles, I worry about how much of the bar is sticking out beyond the log- and what it might be contacting...
I do have a second saw with a 16" bar, that seems to cut faster in this wood. It's chain is also narrower, so the saw isn't cutting as much wood. It's only issue is that it's battery powered, so the big logs drain the battery quickly.
Those colored master links are a stroke of genius! They make it way easier when sharpening to determine where you started. I have to use a sharpie on my other saw.
I worry about that same thing with the longer bar - what else am I cutting into? The ground, another limb of the tree, a rock. So I intend to use the longer bar only when needed on the bigger rounds. Other than that, I'll switch back to the 16" or 18" bar for bucking up the smaller trees. Thanks for watching!
I broke my chain in the most idiotic way yesterday so running to rural king to get a new one this morning. Fitting time for this video!
How did you break your chain? I'm interested in hearing the story!
@@PurpleCollarLife I had to put some tension on a small sycamore since it was so close to my garage. And because of that when I went to cut a wedge it locked my saw up tighter than a gnats a$$, so I had to finish it with an ax. And as a result buy a new chain. But no building damage.
@@Sventy11 Easy to see how that could happen. Glad the chain was all that was damaged.
I use a yellow chain on my MS 180C with 14” bar with no problems. This is in doing forest habitat work.
Thanks for sharing.
One is a square chisel tooth yellow chain and other is rounded tooth green chain. Just cut extra raker next to the normal raker and it’ll help some but the rounded tooth is never going to not suck!
Thanks for watching and leaving a comment !
Ty very much for the upload and doing the comparison. Awesome time stamping and links etc. Much appreciated.
Fair tests should control variables but a little lack of control in this one allowed the kick backs on the yellow chain in the big log, which made it cut slower than the green and possibly showed how a powerful saw is needed if using full chisel chain.
If the large diameter log was trimmed to allow the bar to go through in one smooth cut then the yellow might still have been slower. I say this because a forester's vid basically said full chisel needs a 70cc saw to pull the more aggressive full chisel. MS 290 is about 55cc so it had enough power in the smaller log but perhaps not in the 20" plus log.
I use a 291, 20" bar, .325 semi chisel in various Australian hard and soft woods, green and dry. 290/291 is a versatile saw.
Cheers
Sincerely
d
Just remember a bar and chain can cut double its length. You can manage a 40" trunk with a 20" bar
It's true you can cut from both sides - but my preference is always to be able to cut through at least 75% of the diameter on the first cut.
Is that not obvious
The reduction of chisel less width. Notice the 46deg bevel on the outside of the tooth. is how they achieve low kickback. Some saws actually cut slower with yellow chain because they don’t have the power to pull it.
It takes more power for the yellow chain because it's more aggressive. Yellow chain is made for personal grade saws
Thanks!
First thing I do with the green chain to make it cut much better is file down the additional raker to.025.
Great video 👍
Great tip! Thanks.
No sprocket tip...type of bar oil and outside temp....didn't see much use of the dog but the saw seems to bog more with the chisel cut chain. Not trying to nit pick but these things can make a difference. More powerful saw will take better advantage of the chain throwing bigger chips. Still good info on the differences, and perhaps do an amended video with more powerful saw with both chains and a full chisel chain....lastly, toss in the cost differences on the chains.
Thanks! Those are good suggestions for a future video update.
Full chisel will be measurably faster as you go up in saw size. MS462 is much faster with a full chisel. On the smaller saws it doesn't seem to make much difference.
Excellent thought. I bet you’re right.
Which would be best to cut misquite trees in West Texas ?????😊
Thank You
That's a tough question. I don't know anything about Misquite trees or your skill level. Are they a hardwood or a softwood? If you're an experienced saw operator, the yellow chain may cut faster. If you're more of a novice, I'd always recommend the green chain. Thanks for watching!
As long as it cuts and gets the job done SAFELY, then they are all good in my opinion. Good video.
That's why I like the green chain. The safer, the better. :)
@@PurpleCollarLife I agree with you, I've seen a chainsaw kickback accident, the fella made it to the hospital on time, ripped his face and cheek. I found the cheek part the next day.
Semi chisel stays sharp longer if bucking.
Totally agree. The full chisel dulls faster. And I've found I can sharpen the semi chisel back to sharp better than I can with the full chisel.
@@PurpleCollarLife Always some dirt in firewood... semi much better.
This is a match between semi chisel and full chisel chains. The chain character difference between the low kickback chains, is an extra bumper. The extra bumper has less of a tendency to grab as it moves round the tip.
Though the green chains are less likely to kickback, this is not guaranteed. Plus the extra bumper makes the chain less suitable for plunge/boring cuts.
The answer to minimising the likelihood of kickback. Is training, knowing where the upper quadrant of the bar’s tip is in relation to solid matter and or potential pinch-points.
The text on the yellow chain box, states that saws under 3.8 cubic inches. (3.8 cubic inches = 62.2708cc.) So Stihl is saying the likes of their MS291, MS271, MS260, MS261, MS362; Husqvarna 550XP, 560XP, 562XP; Echo CS-501SX, CS-621SX must all be used solely with green/low kickback chains. I think that is condescending to say the least.
Thanks for watching!
I like the green it does the job! I’d rather have the safety!
Great point.
I haven’t found one yet but does anyone know if there is a company ghat makes semi chisel chains without the extra low kickback links? I just prefer semi or micro chisel. I cut a-lot of dirty and wet stuff
Your saw was warmed up for the green chain...
That could be. Though it was somewhat warmed up for the yellow chain also.
Sorry to be the one to tell this, but whatever your bar length is you can cut double the in the size of wood.
Yes - jumping to the other side of the tree is always an option. Thanks for watching!
Try plunge cutting and see how they do
I don't think I've ever had a need to plunge cut. But that is an interesting question.
@@PurpleCollarLife Take a look at what the rakers do around the tip as they roll around. they cover more area and the chain cuts a lot less I had to plunge cut doing a back cut first on a tree and thats when I noticed
What if the chain has no color at all?
Good question. Is it a Stihl brand chain?
@PurpleCollarLife I ordered 2 chains off Amazon for 20" bar but it was for a stihl 034 but had to go back on the site I ordered them on just to get info on them even the stihl boxes had no info so I had to write it on the boxes they didn't have the yellow marker on the chain or box. But the with of link is different than on the 20" bar on my new stihl ms271 cause it came with 2 green chains so now I am wondering if they will work on the new 271 bar? On this old one that I hope is a 034 stihl saw I bought from a pawn shop but once I thought it to be a 029 or 038 but parts were mixed on it. But my best conclusion even after taking it to a stihl dealer and he was not sure either but thought it to be a 038 but I found that was wrong to and seems to me it's an 034. Got it running good once but allowed a guy to use it and returned it where it would not run ay all. So now I got it completely broke down so I am just going to try to rebuild it all as a 034. One sticker shows 311y chain cover shows 021 but carb and filter and design of Chasey appears to be an 034 so I am just kind of stuck with that.
I have always found rocking the bar up and done you cut faster because you are able to maintain the RPMs. Bogging the engine down is just killing it and not allowing it to cut as fast. jmo I have a Stihl 036 Pro with a 20 inch bar. Cuts wood like butter.
That's true - there is some finesse and trigger time required to determine how to keep those RPMs up and keep the saw cutting fast.
Did You notice the face in the cookie at 11:15, 11:16😊
Thanks for noticing!
Trump baby!
Mmmm cookies! 😊🪵🪵 Great demonstration Chad! I can definitely see the difference. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! It was a fun video to shoot.
Buy Oregon chains instead. Much more aggressive in cutting, and much cheaper than Stiel chain's!
Wait - you can use an Oregon chain on a Stihl saw, in Pennsylvania? :)
Just playing - I've used the Oregon chains in the past and have been happy with them. But we have a great family-owned local Stihl dealership that I like to support.
is the "farm boss" designation for just the bar? and the difference is that its got a slight curve to it right? Is that really beneficial? seems like it would be...I ask because my ms291 has a 20" straight bar thats coming up on needed a replacement, wondering if I can or should go to one of those curved bars?
ps-- the "sure" after "thats why you should be wearing your helmet" cracked me up!🤣
Farm boss is the MS271 model currently (the powerhead and the bar combined). This is a farm/ranch grade chainsaw. I also have the MS290 - previous version of the Farm Boss. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by a "curve" to the bar. It should cut through the wood straight (if the chain is sharpened properly).
@@PurpleCollarLife sorry, I didn't describe the feature well...at all 🤦♂
The curve I was referencing was the variance in the height of the bar across its length. For example, my 291 has a 20" bar. in the middle is just shy of 3", but near the ends it tapers out to ~2.25". To my eye, those farm boss bars look like that taper is steeper. ie even taller in the middle. am I just imagining that?
Farm boss is a marketing term that’s been in use for almost 50 years across various saws. Nothing more, nothing less. The only difference in the bar is that it says farm boss on it vs not. Chain pitch, gauge, and drive link count are identical.
@@hometowndiy9109 really? I dont actually have a farm boss to measure...but it really looks the ratio of the bar height in the middle vs at the ends is greater on the farmboss bars. All of this specs you listed could be the same, just on a bar with more curvature....
Get a 261 if you want best saw in that size range
Why do you have two sets of felling dogs on the inside and none on the outside?
That's the design of the saw. I've never seen a Stihl saw with a set of dogs outside the bar.
Sthil chain too expensive in my area
About what do they cost?
@@PurpleCollarLife about $32 with Oregon for $18and change
@@davidbulich1254 WOW!
@@PurpleCollarLife yeah got some theives
great video thanks! love that ms290 looks like a nice saw!
It is! I know that some "chainsaw aficionados" like to look for these old MS290s used at garage sales, estate sales, and auctions. Thanks for watching!
@@PurpleCollarLife yeah I'm looking for a nice ms290 they are hard to come by now a days
Great saw, once you get it started. Hardest starting saw I ever owned.
Your saw doesn't have enough power to run a 20" bar. (And what Dave said)
Thanks for watching! A 20-inch bar is certainly at the edge of the ability for the MS290 (56CC, 3.8 HP). Especially when you're cutting through Oak. But you use what you have a lot of the time. :)
My ms 271 came with a factory 20" bar
I use the green mainly because I cut mostly dirty wood. It seems easier to sharpen and keeps a decent edge longer.
No your saw doesn’t have the torque to run the full house chain that’s all good video
I've noticed a big power increase with our newer MS261 saw. ua-cam.com/video/6moK2c9OzZk/v-deo.htmlsi=FMf7wvGE01kKR7y9
If my wife ever watched what goes on while cutting up an 80ft water oak with 24” limb bases splayed in every direction she would sell all my equipment and lock me in the house. Maybe she got the danger notice but didn’t ask when I had her order my new first aid clip on bag complete with tourniquets, heavy dressings and quick clot. Safety First!
That saw actually needs a baby bit more fuel up top lip to lean quarter turn itll rippppppppp
Thanks!
Thanks for the info but u do lose man points using ur phone to measure anything 😆
That's true - a stop watch might have been more impressive. :) Thanks for watching.
Well that large oak test didn't work....
Sometimes the results aren't what I expect. But you don't know until you try. Thanks for watching!
Yellow for me don't fall asleep on the saw . Just for shits and giggles my husky 455 cut way better then the 290 .
Thanks! ;)
Nice vid but the music. . . .why? it's annoying
Thanks for watching. Some times I use music to break up the monotony of the chainsaw noise.
The bar only uas to make it halfway through...
That's true! I'm still able to hop over to the other side easily enough.
Good information.
Thanks!
@@PurpleCollarLife I am needing a new chain this weekend I held off buying one because I wanted to see your vlog before my purchase!
@@marshalloutdoors1791 Thanks! Which one are you thinking?
@@PurpleCollarLife For me not real experience so I would go with less kickback. But like the other the way it had extra tooth and you said it sharpen back to like new.
Great
Thanks! We like to know that our videos are helpful or interesting.
👍👍 bagus 👍
Thanks for watching!
🚜🪵❄️🇺🇸
Hi Larry and Robin - Merry Christmas!