Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
i know my chainsaws through n through watch all these types of videos and none are right. to my surprise i found one thats all correct and thoroughly impressed its a good looking womans video
Hello from Québec 😊 My little echo 345 do that all the time when im cutting Small branch and it's annoying. A echo dealership guy told me to keep it really thigh because of that , Small chainsaw have tendency to do that and It helped a bit but still Y can't pinpoint why it's that bad 😢 really love my echo . I've changed the bar for a new one and Those little stud many time😅 It's a bit stupid to have so small 10mm bolt for keeping bar & chain on the saw but It works it you don't go Bananas on thighting it😂. Happy to see you again in a new shop and sexy as always Women And tools are the best 😊 thanks for the info I'll keep a eye on those driver After that chain got off My way of correction is Small hammer and A railroad track to punch it Back to shape it always seems to work for me 🎉 best luck to you for the future 🎉
Watched a guy who uses chainsaws everyday. He takes the cover off the chain drive clutch assembly an completely cleans all the craps out of the casing, cleans the bar and chain and lubes them. He then mixes fuel for next day and tops up his bar oil. On starting each day he checks chain is being oiled by revving engine and seeing some oil being thrown off. A professional at work!
@@nothankyou5524 I guess you can't figure out that a comment about maintenance aligns well with a content creator that speaks heavily about maintenance.
Hi, I am 61 yrs. old and have been using chainsaws since I was 15yrs old, yet I never knew to look for 3 drivers to be free of the bar when you lift it. So, you just earned a new subscriber. I would like to also tell you that you are a very good teacher and I am a man that is not afraid to be taught by a younger woman. I don't have the problem of chains coming off but I have been running my chains too tight all these years. Thanks Luke.
@@savage22bolt32in vide did look like a gap more than I would prefer I 50% of the time lift the bar. Yes new will stretch I'm a novice did not know about the chain catcher at bottom. That was really nice she has the set up for making her chain size not sure cost of them tools yet good to know
@@duke6024 Yesterday, I let my chain get a a little loose. I was up in a tree, pinched the bar and pulled the chain off. Glad I was wearing gloves! Got the chain back on and was really careful on the last few limbs. Generally, I tend to like tighter rather than looser chain slack.
It's worth mentioning to make sure your saw is oiling properly/bar grooves and oil hole are clear. Lack of oil will cause a chain to stretch due to excess heat from friction.
@@kenbrown2808 true. Stihl oil isn't what it used to be. I've tried both echo, and fram from advance auto parts and been happy with both. Boswell is the best I've ever tried if you can find it.
yall must be skilled.... craftsmans.... im stihl trying to figure out what shes trying to teach us because of the 3 years i spent in that winter back in nam, the only echoes i heard was my wife telling me i was wrong and yoga pants dont matter
@@Dudeguymansir You're right! Unfortunately, though, I was arrested in the mall the other day for inciting a riot after bending over to tighten the velcro strap on my Jordans.
@@booifojoe I remember seeing this on the news! The media made it sound way different 🫢 Nah but seriously, you’ve never gone out to your garage on a weekend in your PJ’s to knock out a few easy routine shopkeeping tasks? Key word being “easy”
I enjoyed your video, I'm 70 and have used chainsaws for 50 years...that being said, you have taught me today. My Grandpa told me something when I was eight years old.... when you stop learning, they are shoveling dirt on your face... thank you for today's lesson!
Hi Love from the UK. I am retired now and I worked on every make going. Mainly Stihl and Husqvarna. I was a gold standard Husqvarna Technician. I have encountered everything that you mention and every variation that anyone can think of. The majority caused by incorrect chain tension. Generally most owner users haven't got a clue about using one of the most potentially dangerous tools that anyone can use. Some get away with it and some don't. BUT.. please use ear plugs of defenders. when you get older you WILL have hearing problems. WHAT SHE SAY... AND don't keep blipping the throttle. Raise the throttle up to full chat and then lower it back to tick over. It allows the run in of the new parts. once again great video, it brings back thoughts of all the crazy things customers did.
Just love what you share here. Your last point about a spare chain, is dead right. In my box is a perfectly good used chain, plus a new spare spark plug, etc Now I'm retired, when I chain wood i stop 15 mins early and use my compressor and brushes to "blow it all clean", then lovingly sharpen it, ready for tomorrow. Looking after tools is half the fun of having them....
One of the best ways to keep your drive links from getting beaten up when the chain comes off, is to purchase an Oregon rim style clutch drum and rim appropriate to you r chain size. The 'star' sprockets have six to seven teeth (generally). When the chain comes off, it will drop down and the teeth of the star type sprocket have their way with the chain. A rim type sprocket has a smooth outer surface with nothing there to damage the chain. There are small slots in the outer face of the rim sprocket that the drive links fit into. Chain saws have been a huge part of my life for over 60 years. I have been a vocational forestry instructor in high schools, taught log building for many years and for felling timber on our property and while working with and for loggers. The single greatest thing you can do to improve your safety outcomes is to learn to file the sharpen the chain. Do not be intimidated by hand filing a saw chain. Once you learn the basic principles of how the chain works, it becomes very intuitive on how to sharpen a saw. Learning to file is about 10% knowledge and 90% practice. Once you learn to file a saw, you will be amazed at how easy it is and that you can keep your chain sharp while working all day long. I purchased an expensive, pro quality chain grinder over 20 years ago because I thought it might help my crew members. I used it once and it has been gathering dust ever since. It is easy to touch up your chain with a couple light strokes on each tooth every time you fill up your saw with fuel. It will give you a break in your work routine which will make you safer on the job. You will put out far less effort when cutting with a sharp chain which again makes you safer. Your chains will also last much longer if you keep the chain sharp. Learning to had file is a benefit all the way around. Remember.......10% knowledge and 90% practice and you will be a safer saw operator if you take the time to know your equipment.
At age 82 I have been using Echo CS310 and 590 chainsaws along with a Lynxx battery pole chainsaw to take care of my 2.5 acre property. for a number of years. Your video contains the most helpful advice about on various aspects of chainsaws and blades that I have seen. You have helped me greatly with this. Thanks for your good work.
I appreciate your channel. I'm so damn hardheaded that I rarely take time to listen to good advice. But when I do and the info really helps, I am grateful. So, thank you.
Good video, I agree with almost everything you said , BUT, I have worked with chains, both cutting and roller in industrial setting for between 30 to 40 years now retired, and was told by an old mechanic that chains do not stretch, stretching is from pulling, chains elongate which is caused by wearing at the pins resulting in increased overall length. I know this sounds like nit picking but when I taught classes the maintenace guys had a better understanding
Same here. Just turned 60, and quite efficient with the chainsaw, as well as safety conscious. It blows a lot of people away, especially men, to see a woman handle these machines with expertise 😊
This is the first time I have seen your video. I wish more people would explain the proper use of a chain saw. In the 80's I was lumberjack and always carried 2 saws when out cutting and 6 chains. I would change them every 3 trees I fell. At the end of the day I cleaned them and sharpened them for the next day. A lot of work but if it is maintained right you can get many years of service. I just recently retired my Stihl 056 magnum after 40+ years unable to find the parts necessary to fix it. I feel like apart of me is gone.
In In short, your videos continue to teach this old 67 year old dog new ways to fix and use my power equipment. This one today addressed perfectly my questions about chains popping off saws. Thank you, well done!
My first proper job in 1970 was repairing mower’s trimmers chain saw etc which did for three years small business in the uk love the way you explain things in joy your blogs
They say you "can't teach an old dog new tricks ", well I'm 70 years old and that statement is absolute rubbish. You taught me something new today Bre and for that I thank you !!!! Oh, and a big hello to you from Australia !
In addition to a spare chains I have a spare bar. This is a hold over from when I only had one saw. If I misjudged tension/compression and pinched the saw, I could unbolt the powerhead, install spare blade and chain, and cut the pinched blade free. Then carefully inspect blade and chain for damage before using again.
I raised a baby squirrel much like you did. Feedings around the clock, the whole nine yards. Releasing him was the single hardest thing I’ve ever done. It’s been several years now and I still call his name when I’m out in the woods behind my house.
Thank you for teaching me that I will never buy chain in 100' lengths. I also did not know I should lift my bar up while tightening the cover. Thank you.
Their are 2 reasons why you lift. One is that the bar will go up eventually and then the chain just become loose again. The other is so that you can take advantage of the felling sights that are built into the powerhead (engine). If the bar isn’t brought up then the sights will be off.
If you want to run less expensive you buy a sharpener a punch a riivet roller and a hundred foot roll of chain. I'm sure she makes.those chains up.per customers request
I've been running chainsaws since I was 13, 49 years, and no one ever told me about the way you tension a chain, glad I found your channel. No wonder I've worn out so many bars😁
That’s great info! I was taught many moons ago (over 45 years- I know I’m old) to just make new chains slightly tighter, cut for a few minutes and then check. Your way I like better because once you start cutting, you never wanted to stop.
I keep on coming back at 79 years know it all year old .. there is always more to learn .. Although I wouldn,t admit it .. keep smiling . best wishes from Portugal. Old retired English guy.
I love the sounds of chainsaws early in the morning and two stroke smoke it’s almost as good as a cup of coffee. Great tips as usual, your shop reminds me of when my kids got ahold of it lol.
Also a good idea to check the sprocket or rim sprocket when replacing a chain. If the sprocket is too worn, it can tear up a new chain. A worn chain on a new sprocket can cause premature sprocket wear.
Issue I've had with electric trimming saw with the longer 16" to 18" Oregon bar with 3/8 skip tooth narrow sized .043 gauge chain, when cutting anything smaller than the distance between the skip tooth you can see the bar to the tip wagging like a sign wave. Must stop immediately or the chain will come off no matter what the age or adjustment of the chain is. Switched to a 10"-12" bar for the small stuff, no wagging with the shorter bar and I don't have to stop and swap out/repair the chain. My property is wooded, zoned agricultural. The electric keeps the urban sprawl HOA Karen neighbors from getting nosy annoying. Your tips here on warming up new chain, keep checking between cuts, adjust accordingly are what my dad taught me. Thanks for all your videos as my dad didn't teach me everything. lol
When you replace a chain or sharpening it’s a good rule to check the bar for ridges. Side dressing the bar greatly improves the cut. Also turn the bar over to even put the wear on the tip.
@@thegreatshitstain yes sir sidedressing the bar means to remove the lip that forms as the chain rolls around the bar. I use a belt sander but you can do the same with a file. Remove the bar a run your fingers from the middle of the bar out to the edge. You’ll find a ridge. That needs to be removed from both sides of the bar all the way around. Lay the file on the side of the bar and file the ridge even with the rest of the bar. Pay attention to the nose of the bar. Now when you’ve done this clean out the groove in the bar. You can use a hacksaw blade to clean it out. Pay attention to the oiler holes near the back of the bar. You need to rotate your bar occasionally. The main wear will be on the bottom side of the bar. Turning it over equals the wear out on the bar and give you longer bar life
I was a first time chainsaw owner last February. I noticed after my first few cuts that my chain was a bit loose. Easy to tighten. I also learned from another that once it cools down to check that it isn't too tight with the metal contracting. I know to watch for this with a new chain.
I don't know if you will ever see this comment but I just wanted to say thank you for doing this video because my chain wouldn't go back into the bar and I couldn't see what the hell the problem was . Glad I found this video : )
Cut wood, heated house over 30 year. Never had chain pop off. Guess I've been fortunate because I have cut very small twigs and such now and then. So I've learned something and also the 3 link rule I didn't know. Wish your video was around 30 years ago. I'm sure many new cutters will be greatly benefited. Thanks!
I've found that trimming small twigs with the top of the bar rather than the bottom helps alleviate that problem. The chain will tend to throw off stringy debris like bark shards as it goes 'round the tip of the bar.
I didn’t even do a search for this video but needed it since I just bought a new Echo saw. I don’t use them much but I e already gone through two chains. I had to cut down bamboo, and all sizes of saplings in a bed. Now it makes since. Thank you
I get a lot help from your channel. I'm very good with large engines and diesel but small engines ,chainsaws etc not so much. Recently because of your channel I redirected two discarded chainsaws and one line trimmer. Thanks for your help.
Really great explanation, thank you. I've been using chainsaws of various sizes for four years now with heavy use in the summer. It took me a while to fully appreciate how much chains stretch and the increase risk of them slipping off when rapidly removing a lot of small limbs. It's so important to routinely check the chain tension when you're making a lot of cuts. I still slip a chain now and then, although more rarely, and every time I do it, I kick myself for not making more frequent tension checks.
Yup. A jumped chain 90% of the time I get to de-burr the drivers. Everything you said is spot on with my experience. One thing I have not done is to rev the saw a few times before the first use. I normally do a cut or two and look at the chain. If it's sagging I tighten it. So I learned something from ya and thanks. I normally run the drivers with my fingers after a jumped chain and typically I find between 3-6 drivers with burrs. Hand file works fine. QUESTION - Does sharpening a chain on the saw put a lot of filings in the bar groove and contribute to faster bar and chain wear. I never used to sharpen chains on the bar for that reason but, I've gotten lazy and sharpen on the bar. I did make a chaing holder for sharpening out of a couple of 8-10 inch pieces of Angle iron loosely bolted together. Put the chain drivers between the angle iron and tighten it in the vise. I used 8-10 inches of angle iron because any longer that he anglie iron won't hold the chain tight enough. But back to the question, do the filings from chain sharpening contribute to faster chain and bar wear?
I have been watching you for a very long time and learn so much from you. We have a 20 acre goat ranch and for the last 25 we have been using lots of power equipment mostly chainsaws. I work on all my own equipment, thought I knew a lot till I watched you. All of your videos are well done and I learn so much. Your camera angles are perfect so I can see exactly close up what you are doing. If you reccomend something, I always do it because of all the experience you have had.Thank you so much, all the best to you. Chris
Yesterday was the first time using a chainsaw and the chain kept bouncing off. Now I know why. Thanks so much! I'm excited to get back to work sawing wood for the winter!
I had one chain stretch so much I couldn't use it, would not tighten up, and it's a Stihl, only one I've had do this. Great video, I don't have a chain jump off often at all but noticed having to re adjust, makes sense!
If you grub brush and small stuff it grabs chain and will stretch it...keep it properly adjusted as it it gets hotter....if chain is properly adjusted when finished cutting loosen chain so it doesn't put excess pressure on chain and stretch it s as it cools off...also when replacing chain check bar for a groove worn into bar by chain....file bar untill it's flat on top...also font forget to occasionally turn bar over so it wears the same on both sides
This may be helpful to some. A few (nearly 4) Home Depot had a sale on Ryobi chainsaws. You could purchase a 14” and a “16” together for the price of the “16”. Not too bad so I have 2 saws. Then 2 years ago I lent my “14” to a friend and he bent the bar. OK so time for a new bar. Come to find out, Ryobi uses the same engine and culch for the “14” as they do for the “16”. So, I bought a new “16” bar and chain. I have been using this saw for the last 2 years and have not had a problem. I wonder if any other manufactures’ do the same thing? So now I have a free back-up 16".
Nice to see a young lady making mechanic videos I’m to old to make them not a software guy just infrastructure and fixing trucks and small engines! Thank you, I share them with my kids
I recently found an echo cs590 20" in a dumpster, it was complete. First thing I did eas to scope out the cylinder piston through the ports. Virtually new! Next I put a splash of fuel in the tank , it took about 15 to 20 pulls but started and ran but not well. Pulled the carb back off and apart, gave it a thorough cleaning (no new parts or gaskets), now runs like a dream. Only expense was a new bar and chain. Original bar could probably be rehabed but the chain was a rusted mess with a couple of immobile links, even after a week of soaking in diesel. $35 for an Oregon bar and chain total cash outlay. Not too bad.
After watching a few times, you are a very Educated young lady and very intelligent when it comes to chainsaws. I want to thank you for this UA-cam channel, it definitely helps the new generation and even us old dogs can still learn from a person like you and you know dealing with the public sometimes there is just very little common sense, Can’t buy a book on it. You have both comment sense and very well educated and if was definitely a lot of self taught and experience for sure. Thank you 👍
I've ben an arborist for about 10 years, so I've got some experience running saw. I've found when your drivers get bured up or mushroomed it typically only happens to a few of them. you can often put the chain on a bit loose and reve the saw a couple of times to fix it because the bar is harder it will usually take the burs off. then you can re tension your chain and fet back to work.
You truly are excellent; I have run a saw for 40 years had my own tree service for 25 and still I have learned more from you than anyone you are more knowledgeable than most and you truly help people including me and thanks to you I am going to have my son who owns a machine shop build me some round chain stoppers for my saws, all the aggravation I could have avoided trying to file those guides with a round file to finish a job ha ha if only I could have watched you many years ago ha ha but I am much older than you but not even 1/2 as clever unfortunately for me 😂so thank you again I appreciate your expertise
Timely video, as I just bought new chains for my little MS170 on Saturday. Decades ago I was taught to tension them to the point you couldn't easily lift *any* drivers all the way out of the groove - sounds like I've been over-tightening my chains for years.
I HAVE MADE NEW CHAINS FOR 45 YEARS. I ALWAYS SOAK THE. CHAIN IN BAR OIL FOR A FEW HOURS BEFORE INSTALLING. YOUR CHAIN WILL NOT STRETCH/WEAR NEARLY AS MUCH, AS INSTALLING A DRY CHAIN. Guaranteed
I live in Southwest, Alaska and cut my own wood. I bought a 394xp off eBay years ago for a very low price (the smaller saws were more expensive), downloaded a manual and added everything it really needed. I always run the oil at max simply because the Douglas Fir and Spruce I cut are loaded with rosin and will stick the chain, in low temps it's hard to meter oil even when I cut it with some 2-stroke oil. Lastly, chain is far more expensive than a jug of bar oil. I also have a coffee can half filled with chain oil I put my new chains in to sit for a couple of days before installing them; get them lubed up really well. I run Stihl full square chisel on a 36" Cannon bar. Hard on the back, but all I do is lift it, then catch it when the saw is through the wood. Love your video's, been lurking for a long time.
I agree 100%. New chain, the adjustment tool stays in the back pocket for the first tank of fuel. By then, its generally broke in. One other thing is I never like to break in a new bar with a used chain. Start new bar with new chain. Great video!
If the adjuster tool has a screwdriver end, not good in the back pocket. One trip and you don't wanna think about where it is gonna sink. Just take your jug of bar oil and put a loose zip tie on the jug handle and drop the tool into that zip tie loop.
When cutting smaller limbs I always use the top of the bar instead of the bottom which pushes the debris away instead of pulling it in! The chain catcher on my saw is pristine the only ding on it is from when I loaned it out to someone. Great video Bre and btw awesome new shop, however I don't envy the mess you have there haha!
Ya man I hear you on loaning saws. Last 2 guys I loaned a saw to broke it. Getting tired of paying for others lack of skill. No more loaning saws, they buy their own. Or any tools for that matter. Employees can be really hard on tools.
Well thank you very much Chickanic. I have a relatively new and little used Ryobi 8 inch electric chain saw. It's right next to my desk because I intend to use it soon to cut vegetation. So as soon as you demonstrated how new chains slacken after a few revs, I thought "why not take 3 paces and check my little Ryobi?" And guess what I found. Yeap, on that short 8 in blade the chain was hanging down. Now guess what I'll be doing before it makes another cut? Hell yeah. Thank you again for the timely insight.
Great video. Just to let you know I'm a contractor by trade and a mechanic of none or should I say " No leaves on my shade tree mechanic skills" I just bought a new saw and it's doing this. Now I think I have one or maybe to leaves on that tree now. Thanks 👍👍
I've been using a chainsaw intermittently for about 30 years. I was not aware that chains popping off was a problem. This was great info to learn. Thank you. Oh, ya, I quit purchasing Oregon blades back in the mid 90's. I did use one on my sisters chainsaw with an Oregon chain a couple of years ago, and it just didn’t hold up like stihl chains.
Excellent video. Just bought a chainsaw for first time in 20 years to clean up from hurricane Helene and made all of the mistakes she described. I wish I had watched this before starting to cut.
Always good advice in these video's. About my experience with an electric chainsaw (battery powered). First: I NEVER use a chainsaw on wood less than 4 cm thick. (As the warning from Chickanic tells...the chain will rip it. I use for thid branches a special lopper for branches until 4 to 5 cm. Always take with your saw a lopper with you for taking off smaller branches. Next I noticed at my chansaw that the chain gets longer when jeating up during usage ... I tighten the chain up after a few cuts....after stopping for a longer time the chain will be to tight. When I stop sawing I loose the chain . Preventing that with cooling down the chain tightens to much.
I think my father used to have 3 or 4 spares for his chainsaw back before he retired. In the early days he used a round file to sharpen them in the evening, then he got some sort of holder for the file, and the last years he used a dedicated grinder for it. You never know what you're going to hit when cutting down a tree, and he was clearing fields for farms, so some might have old nails or crampons holding pieces of mesh fence or even barb wire deep in them. And since he did this mostly in warmer months, the trees were full of sap, and that also takes a toll on chains. (He didn't just cut down trees, he dug out the roots, dug trenches and laid down drainage pipes and backfilled. Not something you want to do when the ground is frozen solid.)
You can take clear packing tape over the new "sticker" to help protect from that happening again. Love your videos. Only known about you for a couple months and I work on all my own stuff, not just small engines, but cars, electrical. Like they say jack of all trades but master of none. Keep up the great work and always be yourself!!!
Great advice and thanks for your channel from Australia. I had never owned a chainsaw before but got a 14" Ego skin bundled with a multitool kit. I used it a few times and the chain popped off almost every time. Got a bit gun shy about flailing chains and basically used the pole saw for my occaisional need for one. It had been sitting in the shed and I was planning on getting rid of it when I came across this video. I'm going to get it out and work through your tips.
I am using an early 1970's era WEN T1400 Type-1 14" electric, that Grandpa had put a 16" bar on. I used it a few times in the past after my Dad gave it to me for a fallen limb at my neighbor's place. I was glad to get a hold of one for the few times I need one. And, even without any modern safety features, it has become one of the tools I remember both of them by. I never needed to adjust it until I loaned it to a friend and the chain jumped on him. After so many tries and other explanations, you are the first to solve the chain jumping issue it developed and it is now better than ever for me. I didn't understand in adjustment, that the order of events is so critical! I was tightening the bar first and ruining it! I truly appreciate your help getting Grandpa's chainsaw running again!
"Make the chain slack before you put it away" So smart to eliminate another mysterious cause of inadvertant chain stretching! All the logical dynamics at play which few ever even consider.
I've been using the quick adjuster for 20yrs. At first I didn't really think much of it before buying but now I'd always have it if possible. Chain on/off tensions at your fingertips. And off is not such a bad idea when heat build up comes into the equation as well.
03:25 pick stuff up, turn around, take short break to figure out where you can put it temporarily, put thing in final resting place. Such a familiar little dance :))
Your videos are soooo informative. I really enjoy them all! Thankyou, last time I used my saw I had these issues. Pulled it out for tomorrow’s adventures and my saw is ready to go, thanks to you. All your videos are so easy to watch , and designed for the basic, handy person who just needs those extra hints, to save time, and frustration! Thanks again, you do an awesome job !
Well I been using my 394 since 1994 and never had my chain come off that I recall I cut thousands of cords of wood with it. Guess i been lucky But you did make me aware of this, the good lord willing i will never have this problem at all. Thanks for the knowledge
You also forgot to tell them to clean the bar guide and the clutch cover and the other side where t the oiler is sitting and clean the holes on the back of the of the bar guide that's how the bar chain gets lubrication and if you half to debur the drive links use a drimel it works alot better.
10:02 I'm super glad you said this twice because at first I heard "make sure it is bigger than a femur" and I wasn't startled until I was trying to make a comparison of measurement in my head and the unsettling questions arose 😅
I've been using my 028 since 1984. Just a guesstimate, but I have cut over a hundred cord of wood with this saw and since I have been following what you are advising as far as chain maintenance is concerned, my chain saw cuts and runs like new. The bar looks very worn as far as the lettering is concerned. 40 years! Not too shabby! I fully endorse your videos and advice. Tried and true. Thanks for no BS.
Very helpful! I was having this happen with my newer saw and finally realized that I needed to check chain tension frequently. I even discovered a little tool for this stored in the saw itself!
I carry spare chain because I can maintain the cutting-edge for a bit,all the rocks jumping out of the ground at me dulled my chain. So every now and then, I have a coffee with my brother-in-law while he sharpens all my chains, and I'm good for a while! ☝️😁
I'm on my 4th house. What never ceases to amaze me are nails in trees. The ones closest to driveways or when two trees might be close enough for laundry or whatever. I find them. I helped 2 neighbors who had trees fall when no one was home. We all have 500 foot driveways. Both times I found the nail. 2 chainsaws with 2 extra chains. Dirt is a quicker fix than a rock which is quicker than a nail but I believe I'm preaching to the choir...lol
I saw you had the same chainsaw sharpening machine I have I just wanted to give you a heads up, most machines will not do both directions on spinning while sharpening that one will Take your drill put it on number two for high speed insert into the drill and Allen that will fit for the screw that holds the sharpening disc The idea is you need to have it spend the other directioning so it's spinning outward while sharpening this is for half of the teeth on the blade If it spins inward it's not sharpening correctly for half of the teeth So before you turn your machine on insert the drill get it spinning in the other direction as fast as you can remove the drill quickly and turn the machine on This will allow it to spin in the other direction so it will sharpen the chain correctly for half of the teeth Remember the disc for sharpening needs to spin outward while sharpening those teeth Love your videos keep it up Hope you get the new shop arranged soon
A few tips from a retired pro: Check your drivers every time the chain comes off-they can be re-shaped with a flat file and a round file. Copy the other drivers for shape. Never put a new chain on a worn floating rim sprocket. Dimensions of the new chain are larger than the recesses of the old floating rim sprocket. You can even grenade the rim sprocket. You can put a worn chain on a new rim sprocket. Push the bar tip down onto a wood block or whatever when you tighten the bar nuts after tightening the chain. This 'sets' the bar for work.
Tip from a logger and power right of ways..... That's BS, you can use a new chain on a worn rim. Done it for decades,only split one rim due to it being so worn the drives started to touch the clutch bell and cutting dead Black Locust. Every few chains I also flipped the rim like one should do to a bar with each chain. Same saws I bought (Jred 670 Champ an 2077) bought 30+ yrs ago are still throwing chips today. If I had a chain jump and it gets burrs I just reinstall it loose and give it a few blips of the throttle. The burrs are gone and just retighten chain.
That explains a lot. My little 14" McCulloch is my cleanup saw for branches and small tree tops. That seemed to be when it pitched the chain most often. I'll pay a little closer attention to the driver appearance and chain tension now. Thank you for this.
Chain stretch is actually all the rivets and rivet holes seating in to each other, making the chain longer. When making a chain from a roll, you must be careful to not install the joining links upside down, or the chain will jam on the sprocket. I did that in my early days.
This has happened to me recently with a brand new 18” greenworks electric when I was cutting some small twigs and the brand new chain popped off and damaged about 8 drivers. I had to file them down smooth in order to put the chain back on. Thanks for sharing this tip it was super helpful.
Good video just to see how you installed the chain. Question: do you have a video that gives the pros and cons of making your own chains? I have a Stihl with a 20 inch bar, and in the past year the boxed premade chains have gone up almost $10 each in price. And how often do you recommend sharpening (before tossing)?
how often or how deeply? I touch up my chain every tank of gas, and I generally rotate a chain out when the teeth are about to turn into triangles instead of trapezoids. - I keep the old chain as a throwaway in case I have to cut something I know will wreck it, like a power pole.
It's cheaper making your own. That's not including the tools she used. You can make chain with just a flat file,punch and a hammer.....about 30 yrs ago I learned how to do it and still do it this way today. Sharpen when it's dull... There is no magic number of tanks of fuel you used,how long it's been running,or how many trees you've cut. Sharpen it when it's dull. If you run your finger down the chain and it's not wanting to grab then it's getting or is dull.
A single chain will cut a ton of wood before it needs to be replaced. Many chains have an angled mark on the cutter you can use as a guide and it also indicates the end life of the chain. I would recommend sharpening every couple of tanks. It usually only takes a few strokes with a file to touch them up rather than waiting until the chain is very dull. It really boils down to the type of wood and how dry it is as to how often the chain should be sharpened. I believe a chain will last longer with more frequent touch ups rather than using it until it won’t cut any more.
Don’t worry about the price because Bidenomics is getting ready to cut your current chain prices in half. If you can keep the chain sharp then I’d use it till I couldn’t or the dentures are breaking off of it.
Thank you for an informative video. Fortunately, I've never had a chain jump except when the sprocket cover nuts came loose on an ECHO 4910. One nut got lost. From then on, I replaced them with captured nuts. I also strongly recommend using quality chains only. 2 years in the forest, I've never had a problem with Stihl Yellow chains. And yes. Have spares. $20 - $30 is well worth the investment to stay at work rather than getting shut down.
Great information! I think the quality of the guide bar plays an important role as well. I have a 20” narrow kerf .325 bar on a Dolmar 5105 and have thrown the chain so much that the catcher is almost gone. The last time it happened I measured the slot of the bar with the ears of a dial calipers and found it to be .065” wide when the chain gauge is .050”! I never checked it when new but it was supposed to be .050”. I am patiently waiting to get a Sugihara bar once their North American shipment comes in. They’re made from tool steel as well as being light weight. I know a 95 y/o gentleman who told me he used a Mall chainsaw back in the day. It was gear driven and if he would hang the chain up while cutting the thing would pull the rivets out of the chain and trash it! I can understand how chains stretch today after use. 👍
Some of those narrow kerf bars have enough flex to jump the chain out of the groove with side pressure. For example I have taken a 20 inch Troybilt and laid the bar nose on a block of wood and held the rear handle with one finger with the saw laying on it side with just the weight of the saw and measured 1/2 inch of side flex. On some of the consumer saws, and some of the early 5105 saws they only came with the inside log spike and will cause the bar to twist if you leverage against the spike while sawing causing a moon cut. I have seen the 59" stihl branded bar used on an MS880 that would flip the chain off the bar due to bar droop, if the saw was turned on its side and the engine reved.
It's really a waste of $$ for those bars. I have cut for power companies in 3 states and logged in 2,cleared private land and firewood. In the time they wear out and for the price of them I can buy 4 Oregon bars and still save money. All I use is 24" bars,shorter you have to stoop to much and longer is a waste. With a 24" you can cut anything up to 7' diameter if you know how to cut. All bars wear out,it's up to you to know that and know what you're looking for. When sharpening it's simple to notice if there is to much slop in the bar groove. All chains do too.....bike,quad,saw...etc... they all do. If your oiler isn't properly oiling then it's going to effect both quicker than normal no matter what bar you use.
@@rider660r 84" fan cuts from inside the notch may or may not be possible with a 24" bar but I would like to see a 84" tree bucked with a 24" bar, by the way I am a fan of 24" bars for most cutting but not all cutting. perhaps I even cut with you while at Asplundh or one of the logging companies east of the Mississippi.
@@iffykidmn8170 It's absolutely possible,if one knows what they're doing and not saving the log for anything. When cutting for power we never had a need to save a log as if you're taking them to a mill. We actually would cut them up so woodwolves couldn't come by and haul them off to a mill. When I was logging I've cut a few Populars and 1 Red Oak that was in the 6' neighborhood with 24" bars (It's all I ever use and own) while logging. When logging the yard bucks the logs,let them run a stinking larger bar, I wasn't going to when there's no need,you're on mountain sides that are near vertical,and you might only have a few of those size trees on a job here and there. I filled in for a friend for a week at Aspounders in PA back in the early 90's and there's no way I'd work full time for those idiots. They're as dumb an lazy as Nelson,spent a month with them in OH and had to show those morons many things even though they had 10+ yrs there. Hell all those lazy idiots were running little 18" Craftsmans or Poulans.
Wow! Great info. Especially for someone like my that might only use my chain saw once a year. I’m going to pay more attention to chain. I do pour the gas out and run it dry since I use it so little.
tried that Fluid Film stuff today on the ball hitch for my older truck. the impact almost destroyed it getting it off for a paint job the nut was so rusted on. juicy stuff. rust didn’t foam like your shears. it was more like browning steel after a soaking and paper towel clean up. slightly oily feel but looks good. goes great with the new red paint job. think it will be best used as a wipe on rather than spray on. would conserve product too. good tip. thanks.
awesome content - thanks! The first time I had a chain pop off, I had a spare chain, so without looking at the chain that popped off, I just put the spare chain on. Months later this chain also popped off - and trying to refit the chain there were several drive teeth that had "mushroomed out", and these drive teeth wouldn't fit into the bar :( Reverting to the old chain I found the same issue (several drive teeth wouldn't fit into the bar)... ...so a new chain went on today and I did a bunch of cutting before I saw this video...I'll be checking the tension before any cutting tomorrow, and many times during the yard cleanup session! Good to know you can touch up the drive teeth where they've "mushroomed out" and not throw the chain into land fill!
⚠️Bedding the new chain into the old sprocket is one reason the slack increases initially with the 1st few runs. Also it beds down into the old bar groove also
I watched you replace a carb on a Husqvarna blower that wouldn't run without the choke on. I ordered the parts you suggested and it took 30 minutes to have it run like new. THANKS Mark
Good video. This is info most homeowner saw owners don't know. Also can I just call out that the chainsaw in the video is a great example of a saw that is tuned properly. It starts easily and runs almost immediately at low idle. There should be no need to start the saw and piss rev the hell out of it to get it to idle.
Your workshop reminds me of my dad‘s. Complete with the nails driven into the workbench, the chains scale scratched up, the chain breaker mounted, and spools of chain all over the place. He had a small engine repair business before the time I was born, until a couple of years before he died
Thanks for Watching! Find a link to all of my "Must Have", Favorite Tools HERE!! www.amazon.com/shop/chickanic?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsfshop_aipsfchickanic_9ERPFPBNGQ924P8NS63B
i know my chainsaws through n through
watch all these types of videos and none are right. to my surprise i found one thats all correct and thoroughly impressed its a good looking womans video
Some of the things on your Amazon wish list can't be shipped to a wish list address 😢
@@JnitraM078 Really! Thanks for letting me know! I had no idea.
Hello from Québec 😊
My little echo 345 do that all the time when im cutting
Small branch and it's annoying. A echo dealership guy told me to keep it really thigh because of that ,
Small chainsaw have tendency to do that and
It helped a bit but still
Y can't pinpoint why it's that bad 😢 really love my echo .
I've changed the bar for a new one and
Those little stud many time😅
It's a bit stupid to have so small 10mm bolt for keeping bar & chain on the saw but
It works it you don't go
Bananas on thighting it😂.
Happy to see you again in a new shop and sexy as always
Women And tools are the best 😊 thanks for the info
I'll keep a eye on those driver
After that chain got off
My way of correction is
Small hammer and
A railroad track to punch it
Back to shape it always seems to work for me
🎉 best luck to you for the future 🎉
This video is off the chain!
Watched a guy who uses chainsaws everyday. He takes the cover off the chain drive clutch assembly an completely cleans all the craps out of the casing, cleans the bar and chain and lubes them. He then mixes fuel for next day and tops up his bar oil. On starting each day he checks chain is being oiled by revving engine and seeing some oil being thrown off. A professional at work!
They say "cleanliness is next to godliness", but with a chainsaw, it's next to impossible.
Ha! He forgot to lube the bar sprocket!
A professional or just not a lazy jock strap?
What does that have to do with this content provider?
@@nothankyou5524 I guess you can't figure out that a comment about maintenance aligns well with a content creator that speaks heavily about maintenance.
Hi, I am 61 yrs. old and have been using chainsaws since I was 15yrs old, yet I never knew to look for 3 drivers to be free of the bar when you lift it. So, you just earned a new subscriber. I would like to also tell you that you are a very good teacher and I am a man that is not afraid to be taught by a younger woman. I don't have the problem of chains coming off but I have been running my chains too tight all these years. Thanks Luke.
I always do 2 w the 3 rd tip almost out
3 it’s is
3 drivers out of the groove is too loose for my taste. Never threw a chain on any saw.
@@savage22bolt32in vide did look like a gap more than I would prefer I 50% of the time lift the bar. Yes new will stretch I'm a novice did not know about the chain catcher at bottom. That was really nice she has the set up for making her chain size not sure cost of them tools yet good to know
@@duke6024 Yesterday, I let my chain get a a little loose. I was up in a tree, pinched the bar and pulled the chain off. Glad I was wearing gloves! Got the chain back on and was really careful on the last few limbs.
Generally, I tend to like tighter rather than looser chain slack.
It's worth mentioning to make sure your saw is oiling properly/bar grooves and oil hole are clear. Lack of oil will cause a chain to stretch due to excess heat from friction.
also worth mentioning that a good brand of bar oil will cost more, but it will provide much better lubrication than the discount brand.
@@kenbrown2808 true. Stihl oil isn't what it used to be. I've tried both echo, and fram from advance auto parts and been happy with both. Boswell is the best I've ever tried if you can find it.
@@kenbrown2808 Good can be had for a discount just need to figure out which is which.
Right on, I could not agree more!
I saw she had a piece of cardboard near where she was running the saw.. I assume this was to check the spray pattern of the oiler.😀
Been using chainsaws for 40 years but you stihl taught me something. Thank you.
Ahhhh, i see what you did there!
I worked in the woods 3 years one winter and never knew how to adjust the chain.
I'll Echo that!
yall must be skilled.... craftsmans.... im stihl trying to figure out what shes trying to teach us because of the 3 years i spent in that winter back in nam, the only echoes i heard was my wife telling me i was wrong and yoga pants dont matter
@@broncfreak5210 This is gold.........
I'm 78 years old and been using a chainsaw since I was 6,, yet I never considered wearing yoga pants until now. Thanks for the inspiration.
They’re warm and very comfortable. You’ll love wearing them, I guarantee it!
@@Dudeguymansir You're right! Unfortunately, though, I was arrested in the mall the other day for inciting a riot after bending over to tighten the velcro strap on my Jordans.
@@booifojoe😂
@@booifojoe I remember seeing this on the news! The media made it sound way different 🫢
Nah but seriously, you’ve never gone out to your garage on a weekend in your PJ’s to knock out a few easy routine shopkeeping tasks?
Key word being “easy”
@@Dudeguymansir I live in Florida, so to be honest, it's not uncommon for me to wander my property in nothing but chainsaw chaps and crocs.
I enjoyed your video, I'm 70 and have used chainsaws for 50 years...that being said, you have taught me today. My Grandpa told me something when I was eight years old.... when you stop learning, they are shoveling dirt on your face... thank you for today's lesson!
The day you stop learning is the day you stop living. same thing but a little different.
Hi Love from the UK. I am retired now and I worked on every make going. Mainly Stihl and Husqvarna. I was a gold standard Husqvarna Technician. I have encountered everything that you mention and every variation that anyone can think of. The majority caused by incorrect chain tension. Generally most owner users haven't got a clue about using one of the most potentially dangerous tools that anyone can use. Some get away with it and some don't. BUT.. please use ear plugs of defenders. when you get older you WILL have hearing problems. WHAT SHE SAY... AND don't keep blipping the throttle. Raise the throttle up to full chat and then lower it back to tick over. It allows the run in of the new parts. once again great video, it brings back thoughts of all the crazy things customers did.
Just love what you share here.
Your last point about a spare chain, is dead right. In my box is a perfectly good used chain, plus a new spare spark plug, etc
Now I'm retired, when I chain wood i stop 15 mins early and use my compressor and brushes to "blow it all clean", then lovingly sharpen it, ready for tomorrow.
Looking after tools is half the fun of having them....
stopping "early" is also a good safety tip
being overly tired is when accidents happen
One of the best ways to keep your drive links from getting beaten up when the chain comes off, is to purchase an Oregon rim style clutch drum and rim appropriate to you r chain size. The 'star' sprockets have six to seven teeth (generally). When the chain comes off, it will drop down and the teeth of the star type sprocket have their way with the chain. A rim type sprocket has a smooth outer surface with nothing there to damage the chain. There are small slots in the outer face of the rim sprocket that the drive links fit into.
Chain saws have been a huge part of my life for over 60 years. I have been a vocational forestry instructor in high schools, taught log building for many years and for felling timber on our property and while working with and for loggers. The single greatest thing you can do to improve your safety outcomes is to learn to file the sharpen the chain. Do not be intimidated by hand filing a saw chain. Once you learn the basic principles of how the chain works, it becomes very intuitive on how to sharpen a saw. Learning to file is about 10% knowledge and 90% practice. Once you learn to file a saw, you will be amazed at how easy it is and that you can keep your chain sharp while working all day long. I purchased an expensive, pro quality chain grinder over 20 years ago because I thought it might help my crew members. I used it once and it has been gathering dust ever since. It is easy to touch up your chain with a couple light strokes on each tooth every time you fill up your saw with fuel. It will give you a break in your work routine which will make you safer on the job. You will put out far less effort when cutting with a sharp chain which again makes you safer. Your chains will also last much longer if you keep the chain sharp. Learning to had file is a benefit all the way around. Remember.......10% knowledge and 90% practice and you will be a safer saw operator if you take the time to know your equipment.
At age 82 I have been using Echo CS310 and 590 chainsaws along with a Lynxx battery pole chainsaw to take care of my 2.5 acre property. for a number of years. Your video contains the most helpful advice about on various aspects of chainsaws and blades that I have seen. You have helped me greatly with this. Thanks for your good work.
TY - as a part-time backyard "weekend warrior" from Oz, I greatly appreciate your advice on mowers/ride-ons & chainsaws - please keep doin your thing!
I appreciate your channel. I'm so damn hardheaded that I rarely take time to listen to good advice. But when I do and the info really helps, I am grateful. So, thank you.
I think the math is hysterical! Well done, Deadbuck
Check your sprocket as well and soak your chain in chain oil also helps
Exactly! Also good to pre-oil a timing chain when replacing on a vehicle
Good video, I agree with almost everything you said , BUT, I have worked with chains, both cutting and roller in industrial setting for between 30 to 40 years now retired, and was told by an old mechanic that chains do not stretch, stretching is from pulling, chains elongate which is caused by wearing at the pins resulting in increased overall length. I know this sounds like nit picking but when I taught classes the maintenace guys had a better understanding
Great video. I’m in my 50’s female. Cutting trees and learning everything from my 80yr old dad. Your videos are so informative.
My supervisor at my last tree care company was a lady in her 60s, didn't start her career in arboriculture until her mid 40s!
Same here. Just turned 60, and quite efficient with the chainsaw, as well as safety conscious. It blows a lot of people away, especially men, to see a woman handle these machines with expertise 😊
I've been cutting for a while too. Love the work but always learning. Always respect the tool.
This is the first time I have seen your video. I wish more people would explain the proper use of a chain saw. In the 80's I was lumberjack and always carried 2 saws when out cutting and 6 chains. I would change them every 3 trees I fell. At the end of the day I cleaned them and sharpened them for the next day. A lot of work but if it is maintained right you can get many years of service. I just recently retired my Stihl 056 magnum after 40+ years unable to find the parts necessary to fix it. I feel like apart of me is gone.
In In short, your videos continue to teach this old 67 year old dog new ways to fix and use my power equipment. This one today addressed perfectly my questions about chains popping off saws. Thank you, well done!
My first proper job in 1970 was repairing mower’s trimmers chain saw etc which did for three years small business in the uk love the way you explain things in joy your blogs
I’m 50 and been using saws for 83 years. I absolutely learned something today. 3 drivers up. I learn every time I watch your videos!
😂😂😂!
Now thats some fancy math.
This guy can't call
@@cyb_structure 😂
They say you "can't teach an old dog new tricks ", well I'm 70 years old and that statement is absolute rubbish. You taught me something new today Bre and for that I thank you !!!! Oh, and a big hello to you from Australia !
In addition to a spare chains I have a spare bar. This is a hold over from when I only had one saw. If I misjudged tension/compression and pinched the saw, I could unbolt the powerhead, install spare blade and chain, and cut the pinched blade free. Then carefully inspect blade and chain for damage before using again.
I just learned this lesson. Put my extra bar and chain in my car (sawing offsite) just in case.
Been there, done that!
I raised a baby squirrel much like you did. Feedings around the clock, the whole nine yards. Releasing him was the single hardest thing I’ve ever done. It’s been several years now and I still call his name when I’m out in the woods behind my house.
Thank you for teaching me that I will never buy chain in 100' lengths. I also did not know I should lift my bar up while tightening the cover. Thank you.
Their are 2 reasons why you lift. One is that the bar will go up eventually and then the chain just become loose again. The other is so that you can take advantage of the felling sights that are built into the powerhead (engine). If the bar isn’t brought up then the sights will be off.
If you want to run less expensive you buy a sharpener a punch a riivet roller and a hundred foot roll of chain. I'm sure she makes.those chains up.per customers request
I've been running chainsaws since I was 13, 49 years, and no one ever told me about the way you tension a chain, glad I found your channel. No wonder I've worn out so many bars😁
That’s great info! I was taught many moons ago (over 45 years- I know I’m old) to just make new chains slightly tighter, cut for a few minutes and then check. Your way I like better because once you start cutting, you never wanted to stop.
And dont strain on clutch and engine
I keep on coming back at 79 years know it all year old .. there is always more to learn .. Although I wouldn,t admit it .. keep smiling . best wishes from Portugal. Old retired English guy.
I love the sounds of chainsaws early in the morning and two stroke smoke it’s almost as good as a cup of coffee.
Great tips as usual, your shop reminds me of when my kids got ahold of it lol.
Wow. Finally, an informative and complete explanation. My problem is solved. Thank you.
Also a good idea to check the sprocket or rim sprocket when replacing a chain. If the sprocket is too worn, it can tear up a new chain. A worn chain on a new sprocket can cause premature sprocket wear.
Agree with you on that. I do every time I put a new chain on my saws and anytime i go clean them
Yup.. just had to change mine yesterday!
Grease front sprocket.
I’m surprised it wasn’t mentioned that a worn grooved sprocket can throw a chain .😁
Issue I've had with electric trimming saw with the longer 16" to 18" Oregon bar with 3/8 skip tooth narrow sized .043 gauge chain, when cutting anything smaller than the distance between the skip tooth you can see the bar to the tip wagging like a sign wave. Must stop immediately or the chain will come off no matter what the age or adjustment of the chain is. Switched to a 10"-12" bar for the small stuff, no wagging with the shorter bar and I don't have to stop and swap out/repair the chain. My property is wooded, zoned agricultural. The electric keeps the urban sprawl HOA Karen neighbors from getting nosy annoying. Your tips here on warming up new chain, keep checking between cuts, adjust accordingly are what my dad taught me. Thanks for all your videos as my dad didn't teach me everything. lol
When you replace a chain or sharpening it’s a good rule to check the bar for ridges. Side dressing the bar greatly improves the cut. Also turn the bar over to even put the wear on the tip.
Ranch dressing or can i use Italian?
Honey mustard.
May i ask what you mean by "side dressing" the side of the bar? Thx
@@thegreatshitstain yes sir sidedressing the bar means to remove the lip that forms as the chain rolls around the bar. I use a belt sander but you can do the same with a file. Remove the bar a run your fingers from the middle of the bar out to the edge. You’ll find a ridge. That needs to be removed from both sides of the bar all the way around. Lay the file on the side of the bar and file the ridge even with the rest of the bar. Pay attention to the nose of the bar. Now when you’ve done this clean out the groove in the bar. You can use a hacksaw blade to clean it out. Pay attention to the oiler holes near the back of the bar. You need to rotate your bar occasionally. The main wear will be on the bottom side of the bar. Turning it over equals the wear out on the bar and give you longer bar life
Do not run fingers allong bar lol
I was a first time chainsaw owner last February. I noticed after my first few cuts that my chain was a bit loose. Easy to tighten. I also learned from another that once it cools down to check that it isn't too tight with the metal contracting. I know to watch for this with a new chain.
Putting together videos for my grandsons to learn proper techniques this one is good.
I don't know if you will ever see this comment but I just wanted to say thank you for doing this video because my chain wouldn't go back into the bar and I couldn't see what the hell the problem was . Glad I found this video : )
Cut wood, heated house over 30 year. Never had chain pop off. Guess I've been fortunate because I have cut very small twigs and such now and then. So I've learned something and also the 3 link rule I didn't know. Wish your video was around 30 years ago. I'm sure many new cutters will be greatly benefited. Thanks!
I've found that trimming small twigs with the top of the bar rather than the bottom helps alleviate that problem. The chain will tend to throw off stringy debris like bark shards as it goes 'round the tip of the bar.
@@ernestinebass4371 Thanks for the tip!
I didn’t even do a search for this video but needed it since I just bought a new Echo saw. I don’t use them much but I e already gone through two chains. I had to cut down bamboo, and all sizes of saplings in a bed. Now it makes since. Thank you
I get a lot help from your channel. I'm very good with large engines and diesel but small engines ,chainsaws etc not so much. Recently because of your channel I redirected two discarded chainsaws and one line trimmer. Thanks for your help.
I'm 90 & ALWAYS CAN USE HELP WITH CHAIN SAWS, GOOD VIDEO & KEEP THEM COMING.
Really great explanation, thank you. I've been using chainsaws of various sizes for four years now with heavy use in the summer. It took me a while to fully appreciate how much chains stretch and the increase risk of them slipping off when rapidly removing a lot of small limbs. It's so important to routinely check the chain tension when you're making a lot of cuts. I still slip a chain now and then, although more rarely, and every time I do it, I kick myself for not making more frequent tension checks.
Yup. A jumped chain 90% of the time I get to de-burr the drivers. Everything you said is spot on with my experience. One thing I have not done is to rev the saw a few times before the first use. I normally do a cut or two and look at the chain. If it's sagging I tighten it. So I learned something from ya and thanks. I normally run the drivers with my fingers after a jumped chain and typically I find between 3-6 drivers with burrs. Hand file works fine.
QUESTION - Does sharpening a chain on the saw put a lot of filings in the bar groove and contribute to faster bar and chain wear. I never used to sharpen chains on the bar for that reason but, I've gotten lazy and sharpen on the bar. I did make a chaing holder for sharpening out of a couple of 8-10 inch pieces of Angle iron loosely bolted together. Put the chain drivers between the angle iron and tighten it in the vise. I used 8-10 inches of angle iron because any longer that he anglie iron won't hold the chain tight enough. But back to the question, do the filings from chain sharpening contribute to faster chain and bar wear?
a file will fling the filings away from the chain and bar
I have been watching you for a very long time and learn so much from you. We have a 20 acre goat ranch and for the last 25 we have been using lots of power equipment mostly chainsaws. I work on all my own equipment, thought I knew a lot till I watched you. All of your videos are well done and I learn so much. Your camera angles are perfect so I can see exactly close up what you are doing. If you reccomend something, I always do it because of all the experience you have had.Thank you so much, all the best to you. Chris
Yesterday was the first time using a chainsaw and the chain kept bouncing off. Now I know why. Thanks so much! I'm excited to get back to work sawing wood for the winter!
I had one chain stretch so much I couldn't use it, would not tighten up, and it's a Stihl, only one I've had do this.
Great video, I don't have a chain jump off often at all but noticed having to re adjust, makes sense!
Just take a link out.
If you grub brush and small stuff it grabs chain and will stretch it...keep it properly adjusted as it it gets hotter....if chain is properly adjusted when finished cutting loosen chain so it doesn't put excess pressure on chain and stretch it s as it cools off...also when replacing chain check bar for a groove worn into bar by chain....file bar untill it's flat on top...also font forget to occasionally turn bar over so it wears the same on both sides
This may be helpful to some. A few (nearly 4) Home Depot had a sale on Ryobi chainsaws. You could purchase a 14” and a “16” together for the price of the “16”. Not too bad so I have 2 saws. Then 2 years ago I lent my “14” to a friend and he bent the bar. OK so time for a new bar. Come to find out, Ryobi uses the same engine and culch for the “14” as they do for the “16”. So, I bought a new “16” bar and chain. I have been using this saw for the last 2 years and have not had a problem. I wonder if any other manufactures’ do the same thing? So now I have a free back-up 16".
Nice to see a young lady making mechanic videos I’m to old to make them not a software guy just infrastructure and fixing trucks and small engines! Thank you, I share them with my kids
I recently found an echo cs590 20" in a dumpster, it was complete. First thing I did eas to scope out the cylinder piston through the ports. Virtually new! Next I put a splash of fuel in the tank , it took about 15 to 20 pulls but started and ran but not well. Pulled the carb back off and apart, gave it a thorough cleaning (no new parts or gaskets), now runs like a dream. Only expense was a new bar and chain. Original bar could probably be rehabed but the chain was a rusted mess with a couple of immobile links, even after a week of soaking in diesel. $35 for an Oregon bar and chain total cash outlay. Not too bad.
After watching a few times, you are a very Educated young lady and very intelligent when it comes to chainsaws. I want to thank you for this UA-cam channel, it definitely helps the new generation and even us old dogs can still learn from a person like you and you know dealing with the public sometimes there is just very little common sense, Can’t buy a book on it. You have both comment sense and very well educated and if was definitely a lot of self taught and experience for sure. Thank you 👍
I've ben an arborist for about 10 years, so I've got some experience running saw. I've found when your drivers get bured up or mushroomed it typically only happens to a few of them. you can often put the chain on a bit loose and reve the saw a couple of times to fix it because the bar is harder it will usually take the burs off. then you can re tension your chain and fet back to work.
67 years old and did not know this information. Great video, thank you
You truly are excellent; I have run a saw for 40 years had my own tree service for 25 and still I have learned more from you than anyone you are more knowledgeable than most and you truly help people including me and thanks to you I am going to have my son who owns a machine shop build me some round chain stoppers for my saws, all the aggravation I could have avoided trying to file those guides with a round file to finish a job ha ha if only I could have watched you many years ago ha ha but I am much older than you but not even 1/2 as clever unfortunately for me 😂so thank you again I appreciate your expertise
Timely video, as I just bought new chains for my little MS170 on Saturday. Decades ago I was taught to tension them to the point you couldn't easily lift *any* drivers all the way out of the groove - sounds like I've been over-tightening my chains for years.
I HAVE MADE NEW CHAINS FOR 45 YEARS. I ALWAYS SOAK THE. CHAIN IN BAR OIL FOR A FEW HOURS BEFORE INSTALLING. YOUR CHAIN WILL NOT STRETCH/WEAR NEARLY AS MUCH, AS INSTALLING A DRY CHAIN. Guaranteed
I live in Southwest, Alaska and cut my own wood. I bought a 394xp off eBay years ago for a very low price (the smaller saws were more expensive), downloaded a manual and added everything it really needed. I always run the oil at max simply because the Douglas Fir and Spruce I cut are loaded with rosin and will stick the chain, in low temps it's hard to meter oil even when I cut it with some 2-stroke oil. Lastly, chain is far more expensive than a jug of bar oil. I also have a coffee can half filled with chain oil I put my new chains in to sit for a couple of days before installing them; get them lubed up really well. I run Stihl full square chisel on a 36" Cannon bar. Hard on the back, but all I do is lift it, then catch it when the saw is through the wood. Love your video's, been lurking for a long time.
I agree 100%. New chain, the adjustment tool stays in the back pocket for the first tank of fuel. By then, its generally broke in. One other thing is I never like to break in a new bar with a used chain. Start new bar with new chain. Great video!
If the adjuster tool has a screwdriver end, not good in the back pocket. One trip and you don't wanna think about where it is gonna sink. Just take your jug of bar oil and put a loose zip tie on the jug handle and drop the tool into that zip tie loop.
When cutting smaller limbs I always use the top of the bar instead of the bottom which pushes the debris away instead of pulling it in! The chain catcher on my saw is pristine the only ding on it is from when I loaned it out to someone. Great video Bre and btw awesome new shop, however I don't envy the mess you have there haha!
Ya man I hear you on loaning saws. Last 2 guys I loaned a saw to broke it. Getting tired of paying for others lack of skill. No more loaning saws, they buy their own. Or any tools for that matter. Employees can be really hard on tools.
I have no brother or friend that I will loan my chain saw too.
Loaning out tools/equipment. What I've learned, if it has a motor or engine don't loan it, if it doesn't have a motor or engine still don't loan it.
top not tip ;-)@@440tomcat
right@@hime273
Well thank you very much Chickanic. I have a relatively new and little used Ryobi 8 inch electric chain saw. It's right next to my desk because I intend to use it soon to cut vegetation. So as soon as you demonstrated how new chains slacken after a few revs, I thought "why not take 3 paces and check my little Ryobi?" And guess what I found. Yeap, on that short 8 in blade the chain was hanging down. Now guess what I'll be doing before it makes another cut? Hell yeah.
Thank you again for the timely insight.
Great video. Just to let you know I'm a contractor by trade and a mechanic of none or should I say " No leaves on my shade tree mechanic skills" I just bought a new saw and it's doing this. Now I think I have one or maybe to leaves on that tree now. Thanks 👍👍
I've been using a chainsaw intermittently for about 30 years. I was not aware that chains popping off was a problem. This was great info to learn. Thank you. Oh, ya, I quit purchasing Oregon blades back in the mid 90's. I did use one on my sisters chainsaw with an Oregon chain a couple of years ago, and it just didn’t hold up like stihl chains.
Excellent video. Just bought a chainsaw for first time in 20 years to clean up from hurricane Helene and made all of the mistakes she described. I wish I had watched this before starting to cut.
Excellent tutelage Bre! I’ve been using chainsaws for decades and still learned a few things today😊
Always good advice in these video's.
About my experience with an electric chainsaw (battery powered).
First: I NEVER use a chainsaw on wood less than 4 cm thick. (As the warning from Chickanic tells...the chain will rip it. I use for thid branches a special lopper for branches until 4 to 5 cm.
Always take with your saw a lopper with you for taking off smaller branches.
Next I noticed at my chansaw that the chain gets longer when jeating up during usage ... I tighten the chain up after a few cuts....after stopping for a longer time the chain will be to tight.
When I stop sawing I loose the chain . Preventing that with cooling down the chain tightens to much.
I think my father used to have 3 or 4 spares for his chainsaw back before he retired. In the early days he used a round file to sharpen them in the evening, then he got some sort of holder for the file, and the last years he used a dedicated grinder for it.
You never know what you're going to hit when cutting down a tree, and he was clearing fields for farms, so some might have old nails or crampons holding pieces of mesh fence or even barb wire deep in them. And since he did this mostly in warmer months, the trees were full of sap, and that also takes a toll on chains. (He didn't just cut down trees, he dug out the roots, dug trenches and laid down drainage pipes and backfilled. Not something you want to do when the ground is frozen solid.)
Saws have an uncanny ability to find the ONLY nail in a forty foot tree! Ask me how I know!!!!
@@tomrogers9467 They might just as well rename them 'Metal Debris Locators'
You can take clear packing tape over the new "sticker" to help protect from that happening again.
Love your videos. Only known about you for a couple months and I work on all my own stuff, not just small engines, but cars, electrical. Like they say jack of all trades but master of none. Keep up the great work and always be yourself!!!
Great advice and thanks for your channel from Australia. I had never owned a chainsaw before but got a 14" Ego skin bundled with a multitool kit. I used it a few times and the chain popped off almost every time. Got a bit gun shy about flailing chains and basically used the pole saw for my occaisional need for one. It had been sitting in the shed and I was planning on getting rid of it when I came across this video. I'm going to get it out and work through your tips.
I am using an early 1970's era WEN T1400 Type-1 14" electric, that Grandpa had put a 16" bar on.
I used it a few times in the past after my Dad gave it to me for a fallen limb at my neighbor's place.
I was glad to get a hold of one for the few times I need one.
And, even without any modern safety features, it has become one of the tools I remember both of them by.
I never needed to adjust it until I loaned it to a friend and the chain jumped on him.
After so many tries and other explanations, you are the first to solve the chain jumping issue it developed and it is now better than ever for me.
I didn't understand in adjustment, that the order of events is so critical!
I was tightening the bar first and ruining it!
I truly appreciate your help getting Grandpa's chainsaw running again!
The chain elongates due to wear at the pivot points, but also due to heat. Don't forget to make the chain slack before you put the saw away.
"Make the chain slack before you put it away"
So smart to eliminate another mysterious cause of inadvertant chain stretching! All the logical dynamics at play which few ever even consider.
I've been using the quick adjuster for 20yrs. At first I didn't really think much of it before buying but now I'd always have it if possible. Chain on/off tensions at your fingertips. And off is not such a bad idea when heat build up comes into the equation as well.
03:25 pick stuff up, turn around, take short break to figure out where you can put it temporarily, put thing in final resting place. Such a familiar little dance :))
Your videos are soooo informative. I really enjoy them all! Thankyou, last time I used my saw I had these issues. Pulled it out for tomorrow’s adventures and my saw is ready to go, thanks to you. All your videos are so easy to watch , and designed for the basic, handy person who just needs those extra hints, to save time, and frustration! Thanks again, you do an awesome job !
Great video, I'm just a typical home owner that uses my saw on occasions. So this is good info that I never realized. Thank you!
Well I been using my 394 since 1994 and never had my chain come off that I recall
I cut thousands of cords of wood with it.
Guess i been lucky
But you did make me aware of this,
the good lord willing i will never have this problem at all.
Thanks for the knowledge
You also forgot to tell them to clean the bar guide and the clutch cover and the other side where t the oiler is sitting and clean the holes on the back of the of the bar guide that's how the bar chain gets lubrication and if you half to debur the drive links use a drimel it works alot better.
10:02 I'm super glad you said this twice because at first I heard "make sure it is bigger than a femur" and I wasn't startled until I was trying to make a comparison of measurement in my head and the unsettling questions arose 😅
*At **9:05**, you can almost see the 'nervous sweat' trickling out of those trees. LOL*
I've been using my 028 since 1984. Just a guesstimate, but I have cut over a hundred cord of wood with this saw and since I have been following what you are advising as far as chain maintenance is concerned, my chain saw cuts and runs like new. The bar looks very worn as far as the lettering is concerned. 40 years! Not too shabby! I fully endorse your videos and advice. Tried and true. Thanks for no BS.
Very helpful! I was having this happen with my newer saw and finally realized that I needed to check chain tension frequently. I even discovered a little tool for this stored in the saw itself!
read the manual ,which of course us guys never do .lol.
@@davidkettell1073 Even the name sounds like it's in another language!
I carry spare chain because I can maintain the cutting-edge for a bit,all the rocks jumping out of the ground at me dulled my chain.
So every now and then, I have a coffee with my brother-in-law while he sharpens all my chains, and I'm good for a while! ☝️😁
I'm on my 4th house. What never ceases to amaze me are nails in trees. The ones closest to driveways or when two trees might be close enough for laundry or whatever. I find them.
I helped 2 neighbors who had trees fall when no one was home. We all have 500 foot driveways. Both times I found the nail. 2 chainsaws with 2 extra chains. Dirt is a quicker fix than a rock which is quicker than a nail but I believe I'm preaching to the choir...lol
Try not to cut chain in the dirt..will ruin a chain...cut wood part way through a d roll over and cut from other side
I saw you had the same chainsaw sharpening machine I have
I just wanted to give you a heads up, most machines will not do both directions on spinning while sharpening that one will
Take your drill put it on number two for high speed insert into the drill and Allen that will fit for the screw that holds the sharpening disc
The idea is you need to have it spend the other directioning so it's spinning outward while sharpening this is for half of the teeth on the blade
If it spins inward it's not sharpening correctly for half of the teeth
So before you turn your machine on insert the drill get it spinning in the other direction as fast as you can remove the drill quickly and turn the machine on
This will allow it to spin in the other direction so it will sharpen the chain correctly for half of the teeth
Remember the disc for sharpening needs to spin outward while sharpening those teeth
Love your videos keep it up Hope you get the new shop arranged soon
A few tips from a retired pro:
Check your drivers every time the chain comes off-they can be re-shaped with a flat file and a round file. Copy the other drivers for shape.
Never put a new chain on a worn floating rim sprocket. Dimensions of the new chain are larger than the recesses of the old floating rim sprocket. You can even grenade the rim sprocket.
You can put a worn chain on a new rim sprocket.
Push the bar tip down onto a wood block or whatever when you tighten the bar nuts after tightening the chain. This 'sets' the bar for work.
Tip from a logger and power right of ways..... That's BS, you can use a new chain on a worn rim. Done it for decades,only split one rim due to it being so worn the drives started to touch the clutch bell and cutting dead Black Locust. Every few chains I also flipped the rim like one should do to a bar with each chain. Same saws I bought (Jred 670 Champ an 2077) bought 30+ yrs ago are still throwing chips today.
If I had a chain jump and it gets burrs I just reinstall it loose and give it a few blips of the throttle. The burrs are gone and just retighten chain.
That explains a lot. My little 14" McCulloch is my cleanup saw for branches and small tree tops. That seemed to be when it pitched the chain most often. I'll pay a little closer attention to the driver appearance and chain tension now. Thank you for this.
Chain stretch is actually all the rivets and rivet holes seating in to each other, making the chain longer. When making a chain from a roll, you must be careful to not install the joining links upside down, or the chain will jam on the sprocket. I did that in my early days.
Brilliant, Bought mine over 5 years ago from Aldi for about £120. One of the most useful bits of kit I have
Nice looking motor you have wrapped up.
This has happened to me recently with a brand new 18” greenworks electric when I was cutting some small twigs and the brand new chain popped off and damaged about 8 drivers. I had to file them down smooth in order to put the chain back on. Thanks for sharing this tip it was super helpful.
Good video just to see how you installed the chain. Question: do you have a video that gives the pros and cons of making your own chains? I have a Stihl with a 20 inch bar, and in the past year the boxed premade chains have gone up almost $10 each in price. And how often do you recommend sharpening (before tossing)?
how often or how deeply? I touch up my chain every tank of gas, and I generally rotate a chain out when the teeth are about to turn into triangles instead of trapezoids. - I keep the old chain as a throwaway in case I have to cut something I know will wreck it, like a power pole.
We buy Oregon bulk chain and the cutters have a line on them to let you know when you've had your money's worth !
It's cheaper making your own. That's not including the tools she used. You can make chain with just a flat file,punch and a hammer.....about 30 yrs ago I learned how to do it and still do it this way today.
Sharpen when it's dull... There is no magic number of tanks of fuel you used,how long it's been running,or how many trees you've cut. Sharpen it when it's dull. If you run your finger down the chain and it's not wanting to grab then it's getting or is dull.
A single chain will cut a ton of wood before it needs to be replaced. Many chains have an angled mark on the cutter you can use as a guide and it also indicates the end life of the chain. I would recommend sharpening every couple of tanks. It usually only takes a few strokes with a file to touch them up rather than waiting until the chain is very dull. It really boils down to the type of wood and how dry it is as to how often the chain should be sharpened. I believe a chain will last longer with more frequent touch ups rather than using it until it won’t cut any more.
Don’t worry about the price because Bidenomics is getting ready to cut your current chain prices in half. If you can keep the chain sharp then I’d use it till I couldn’t or the dentures are breaking off of it.
Thank you for an informative video. Fortunately, I've never had a chain jump except when the sprocket cover nuts came loose on an ECHO 4910. One nut got lost. From then on, I replaced them with captured nuts. I also strongly recommend using quality chains only. 2 years in the forest, I've never had a problem with Stihl Yellow chains. And yes. Have spares. $20 - $30 is well worth the investment to stay at work rather than getting shut down.
Any time the bar is off check the oiler hole to make sure it's clean, you're there anyway.
Great information! I think the quality of the guide bar plays an important role as well. I have a 20” narrow kerf .325 bar on a Dolmar 5105 and have thrown the chain so much that the catcher is almost gone. The last time it happened I measured the slot of the bar with the ears of a dial calipers and found it to be .065” wide when the chain gauge is .050”! I never checked it when new but it was supposed to be .050”. I am patiently waiting to get a Sugihara bar once their North American shipment comes in. They’re made from tool steel as well as being light weight.
I know a 95 y/o gentleman who told me he used a Mall chainsaw back in the day. It was gear driven and if he would hang the chain up while cutting the thing would pull the rivets out of the chain and trash it! I can understand how chains stretch today after use. 👍
any good saw shop should be able to close up the rails on a bar or one can purchase the tool for doing it yourself.
Some of those narrow kerf bars have enough flex to jump the chain out of the groove with side pressure. For example I have taken a 20 inch Troybilt and laid the bar nose on a block of wood and held the rear handle with one finger with the saw laying on it side with just the weight of the saw and measured 1/2 inch of side flex. On some of the consumer saws, and some of the early 5105 saws they only came with the inside log spike and will cause the bar to twist if you leverage against the spike while sawing causing a moon cut. I have seen the 59" stihl branded bar used on an MS880 that would flip the chain off the bar due to bar droop, if the saw was turned on its side and the engine reved.
It's really a waste of $$ for those bars. I have cut for power companies in 3 states and logged in 2,cleared private land and firewood. In the time they wear out and for the price of them I can buy 4 Oregon bars and still save money. All I use is 24" bars,shorter you have to stoop to much and longer is a waste. With a 24" you can cut anything up to 7' diameter if you know how to cut.
All bars wear out,it's up to you to know that and know what you're looking for. When sharpening it's simple to notice if there is to much slop in the bar groove. All chains do too.....bike,quad,saw...etc... they all do. If your oiler isn't properly oiling then it's going to effect both quicker than normal no matter what bar you use.
@@rider660r 84" fan cuts from inside the notch may or may not be possible with a 24" bar but I would like to see a 84" tree bucked with a 24" bar, by the way I am a fan of 24" bars for most cutting but not all cutting. perhaps I even cut with you while at Asplundh or one of the logging companies east of the Mississippi.
@@iffykidmn8170 It's absolutely possible,if one knows what they're doing and not saving the log for anything. When cutting for power we never had a need to save a log as if you're taking them to a mill. We actually would cut them up so woodwolves couldn't come by and haul them off to a mill.
When I was logging I've cut a few Populars and 1 Red Oak that was in the 6' neighborhood with 24" bars (It's all I ever use and own) while logging. When logging the yard bucks the logs,let them run a stinking larger bar, I wasn't going to when there's no need,you're on mountain sides that are near vertical,and you might only have a few of those size trees on a job here and there.
I filled in for a friend for a week at Aspounders in PA back in the early 90's and there's no way I'd work full time for those idiots. They're as dumb an lazy as Nelson,spent a month with them in OH and had to show those morons many things even though they had 10+ yrs there. Hell all those lazy idiots were running little 18" Craftsmans or Poulans.
Wow! Great info. Especially for someone like my that might only use my chain saw once a year. I’m going to pay more attention to chain. I do pour the gas out and run it dry since I use it so little.
Learned more from this chainsaw video than any other and I’ve watched many. Thank you so much !
tried that Fluid Film stuff today on the ball hitch for my older truck. the impact almost destroyed it getting it off for a paint job the nut was so rusted on. juicy stuff. rust didn’t foam like your shears. it was more like browning steel after a soaking and paper towel clean up. slightly oily feel but looks good. goes great with the new red paint job. think it will be best used as a wipe on rather than spray on. would conserve product too. good tip. thanks.
Thanks, Bre! Hope all is going smoothly with the shop transition, as well as the Mr's joint replacement! Stay safe
awesome content - thanks! The first time I had a chain pop off, I had a spare chain, so without looking at the chain that popped off, I just put the spare chain on.
Months later this chain also popped off - and trying to refit the chain there were several drive teeth that had "mushroomed out", and these drive teeth wouldn't fit into the bar :(
Reverting to the old chain I found the same issue (several drive teeth wouldn't fit into the bar)...
...so a new chain went on today and I did a bunch of cutting before I saw this video...I'll be checking the tension before any cutting tomorrow, and many times during the yard cleanup session!
Good to know you can touch up the drive teeth where they've "mushroomed out" and not throw the chain into land fill!
I learn something new every time I watch your videos. I love saving time, money, and frustration! ☺️
Of course. Most ppl that watched this don’t need to be reminded.
She is the chainsaw " whisper "!
⚠️Bedding the new chain into the old sprocket is one reason the slack increases initially with the 1st few runs.
Also it beds down into the old bar groove also
Love your channel. Please leave the glasses on or off.
It messes with my head.😊
I watched you replace a carb on a Husqvarna blower that wouldn't run without the choke on. I ordered the parts you suggested and it took 30 minutes to have it run like new. THANKS Mark
Good video. This is info most homeowner saw owners don't know.
Also can I just call out that the chainsaw in the video is a great example of a saw that is tuned properly. It starts easily and runs almost immediately at low idle. There should be no need to start the saw and piss rev the hell out of it to get it to idle.
I'm really happy to see someone who gives people tips like this and the safety tips that you give
Lots of good tips here, which I learned over the years.
Your workshop reminds me of my dad‘s. Complete with the nails driven into the workbench, the chains scale scratched up, the chain breaker mounted, and spools of chain all over the place. He had a small engine repair business before the time I was born, until a couple of years before he died
You are so good at teaching love your content I get a little smarter every video. ❤