More rivets in the tip usually mean they are more resistant to deformation / damage when bore cutting, especially in hard woods like hard maple . One of the things I LOVED about stihl bars is they had 6 rivets and the tips lasted. Conversely I sold a bunch of Tsumara bars and every one had a tip failure within weeks of pro level logger use. Hurt my reputation and it too a while to regain that with the guys I was selling supplies to. Those Tsumara bars had four rivets.
I not understand very well all thoes specifications, I have the Stihl MSA300 witch comes with Light 04 bar, at sametime I have the Stihl 220C witch come with 40cm Rollomatic bar, I went by a Stihl dealer and hask for a 40cm Light 04 for the 220C but it not fits and they go down with a 35cm Light 04 also they change some other part because the chain for this new bar is slim, so now in this saw I have a shorter bar.
I’ve always heard the 6 rivet has more bearings . I was also curious on the 4 rivets of the tsumara for longevity… I’ve had 2 tsumaras, didn’t have a tip failure but I broke both bars. Both of which was my fault. To be honest…. I’ve never actually had a stihl tip failed with the 6 rivet and it’s not even serviceable
@danielsmith8659 mine did not hold up and my customers at the time were lucky to get 3 weeks out of one. This is east coast hard wood logging with gol methodology
@@afleetcommand I’m an east coast guy my self . South east. I really didn’t get enough run time on the tsumaras … to be fair they aren’t exactly cheaper than a regular stihl rollamatic es . I had both on a pro Mac 700 and had to modify them anyway to work correctly. So stihl wasn’t an option for that saw.
I would be very curious about the strong bars vs lite bars and how they feel .!!! Great info brother. I didn’t get a video notification maybe you put to many videos out 😂. Joking Arron puts out a lot of videos and I think I get them all.
That paint job on the new stihl bars is different and I do kinda like it but think I also prefer the traditional bar paint scheme. Who knows, it may grow on me! Thanks for the info👍🏻 I haven't seen them in person yet.
I've been looking at a 500i but they don't really seem to know much about the r except for it is a full wrap and about 150US higher here at my local stihl dealer
I still miss the OG Stihl bars, polished not painted, just small orange letters that said "Stihl". I haven't been able to find any of the new bars anywhere yet. I tend to favor cannon or sugi hara, but I do want to see if Stihl has stepped it up with their new ones
My 261 m tronic ripped from day 1 . I just lost the tip in my light 04 , 20 inch 325 , 50 bar after only 5 chains. Probably me full but I hope they hold up ok
If I didn't have this channel and was just going out and using it, I'd see this 400 a lot differently. As it is, I'm doing all these tests on it and it keeps losing. But, it feels great, it runs great, and if I wasn't doing these tests I would have no idea that is was really only high average. Does that make sense?
"It's where we built our reputation in the first place. To help you identify model features, look for these corresponding symbols: C = Comfort feature, E = Easy2Start™, Q = an additional chain braking system, R = wrap handle, and M = STIHL M-Tronic™." C = more antivibration features
We'll have to see how the new bars hold up compared to the ones they're replacing. On a side note, Echo in Europe are releasing new 4010 and 4920 farmer saws. Appear to be smaller and larger versions of the plastic clamshell strato 4510. Hope they aren't coming here soon.
Unfortunately the 4920 is on the way. It will have a smaller bore and longer stroke. The owners manual for the north american market has been out since August?? It is replacing the 4910 and seems to be a clamshell design. Most likely due to the increased price in magnesium for saws with an actual 2 piece case. For about 8 months last year I couldnt order any ECHO equipment that had Mag parts due to global supply shortages. CS-4010 is replacing the CS-400 which is well due for an update.
Interesting never seen that sheet with the bars. I thought light 04 was a line made for small saws in only .325 but then I seen one on a 7310 so I was confused. It's weird they would designate the rivets on the bar but I guess as a marketing idea it worked cause I been trying to figure it out for a while lol. So it's just a laminated bar with 4 rivets then? Confusing
You’re right, I thought so too. When I got my 261C-M a couple of years ago, I was going to try a .325, 0.050, 18” setup to see if to was going to improve the stock 3/8 LP. Sounds like I have to revisit this again with the dealers. I can just imagine the look I’ll get from my dealer who is not a chainsaw guy.
I've got a rim that will fit. It's the one they used on the 031. I'll send it too you. I don't think they make them anymore. Was hard for me to find. I was putting an 031 together for a buddy of mine, and it was .325. I searched all over to find it,and supposedly didn't. I told my buddy about the, and he said he wanted to switch it over to 3/8 anyways. I switched it and sent it home. A week ago the saw shop called, and told me they had my rim. I went and got it thinking I might have a use for it someday, and here it is.
@@novicelumberjack I've got it from that saw you sent my cousin. I'll try to get it in the mail tomorrow. Been on the OT I'll take a little time and send it.
I just bought the MS 400 I find with a 25" bar I don't have to bend over as much still a great saw has plenty of pulll I might be wrong.. Now I'm here to say I don't run a saw like you do I'm only a part time farmer out in the fields cutting few trees down best saw I bought too far.. Like I said just easier on my back.
Still really no point running a .325 on a 67cc saw they stretch real bad. I made up an 18” .325 bar and put a 9 pin on my 066 just for messing around. You wouldn’t want a 7 pin on a big saw anyway saw has too much power for the gearing and you loose chain speed on a .325 vs 3/8”
@@christopherlehman4045 The husqvarna H21 .325 .058 chain I'm running on my 560xp is not streching any more than usual. So a 67cc saw would be fine with .325. And the chain speed is the same on 8 pin .325 and 7 pin 3/8.
Yes it’s probably close but you had to go up one pin you have a smaller less durable chain and cutter on a saw with plenty of power for 3/8” so doesn’t make s whole lot of sense to do it. I’m sure the cut times are almost identical between the 3/8 and .325 on your saw
Actually all the new ones that say light on them are lighter than the rollomatic e bars they replaced. They claim an actual weight reduction of approximately 10-20% depending on length. They saved weight my making the rails slightly thinner and changing the nose profile. The p will replace the older poly core light bars and the 06 is just the heavier duty bar with 6 rivet tip like the old rollomatic es.
Streaches like mad on a powerful saw and has inconsistent tooth hardness on the ones I tried. Some teeth file like butter and other ones on same chain are so hard the file skates across the tooth without cutting. Only tried a couple tri link pro bars and chains to demo. The bar tip let go after a week of hard use
Yep! Same with powercare from home depot and craftsman from lowes. Been pleased with it in 3/8lp so far. Recently picked up 1 .325 loop and 1 3/8 loop to try out. Looks and feels extremely similar to holzfforma chain.
Glad you found out what light means be because I was goin to grind the finish off for obvious disappointment now you broke it down! Misleading marketing
While I am a fan of the stihl rollamatic es bar. Only the es …. Not the regular rollamatic . If you want a cheap laminate or stamped bar you have a lot of other cheap options . Oregon being a good example. If you aren’t gonna buy a pro bar from stihl….get a cheap one else where . It’s just the truth
The last month or so, I've only been getting a little under half of my YT notifications🧐 having to check my subscriptions list a few times a day. So you're not alone!
you're getting way too caught up in the "I think this size bar and this size saw are blah blah...." I would tell you what my anecdotal use case in my anecdotal wood type are blah blah... and you would think I'm full of shit, or you could... I love your stuff, and I love your process, just stop gettin hung up on the size.... we know it's how you use it!
No there really isn’t a mapping in the fuel system. It just takes a 400 Stihl 8-10 tanks to fully seat the rings. Mtronic saws don’t have a break in map they just have a set map in the coil and it just tunes lean-rich many times a second to try to hold a certain rpm. And technically an mtronic saws is just a carb saw with a solenoid controlled jet. The coil, carb and flywheel are the main parts that are different between the standard carb and mtronic versions of Stihl saws. The 400 only comes mtronic.
My mistake, I shouldn't have said fuel mapping. I was hinting more towards a timing curve type of governing. Chris, do you know for certain that they do not have a limiting function, or are you just assuming, or passing along info as you heard it from someone else who may be assuming? I'm just trying to sort through the weeds. Fact or assumption. Do you KNOW there is no limiting control built in...or are you assuming? And if you know, where did you get the info? I'd love to get my hands on it.
I figured actual fuel mapping wasn’t happening. A fusable link on the coil like the echo dealer told me was on the 7310 could be a viable possibility. I must say thow it is strato or air over charge. With laziness built in to m tronic technologies is a bunch of EPA BS. There is one reason auto tune / m tronic would be worth having that would be if I’m giving saws to employees and not wanting them to touch anything. Other then that sthil and husky can shove it I don’t care how good they get at building them I was upset with husky for doing it now sthil can eat a big fat one also 🤣 sorry for my negativity towards that saw your trying to love so much boedy. Sometimes we try and justify our purchases in spectacular unreal ways. I truly hope it gets better for you man.
It’s not a smart system really just a set program mapped into the control that’s part of the coil. It reads rpm on the magnets and uses a solenoid on the zama carb to tune lean or rich to maintain a desirable rpm that’s it. It’s the rings taking time to seat in for the 6-10 tanks and that will vary on how hard you run it. Ran my 400 stock for one tank then i advanced the timing and opened the muffler up. The saw is designed to be an up to 14000 rpm saw and stihls largest saw designed to run that factory spec. Mtronic is not a super complex system and really no reason to be scared of it. Been out over 10 years
Mtronic or autotune does far better overall than you and your screwdriver can. Plus if you get an air leak it will save the saw a lot of times. Will still run like crap but it may keep the cylinder from cooking.
I'm 56 yrs old been a machinists all my life. The bar & chain is less than a 1/2 lb lighter combined. However the chain is thinner and so is the bar. They say the lighter chain runs faster. So faster means the bar gets hotter & the thinner chain stretches easier. Plus they are a little more expensive. Don't see much improvement. Why try to change something that has worked so well for so long. Just my opinion.
@@gunterbecker8528 I like the old bars. The new ones are lighter. Seems as though they would also get hotter quicker, causing them to stretch. I believe, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I bought the one with the old style chain and bar.
It’s almost like you are trying to make yourself like stihl. Call it what it is today, overrated, overpriced. Do they make some good saws? Absolutely. Do they make some junk? Absolutely.
Just like all brands just how cheap you want to be when buying a saw. If you buy a pro mag case with separate cylinder saw from husky, echo or Stihl it’s a good saw. If you buy a 170-200$ saw it won’t take heavy use. Still know plenty of tree services that had Stihl then tried to save money by purchasing echo and they all ended back with Stihl and or husky.
Just like Husky, some good and some suck, really bad. Power equipment comes with its own level of dependability and durability, both traits come with a price tag. Always buy the best you can afford and you won't be sorry. If you shop by price you may not be able to afford the repair or replacement to get best.
C= comfort , T= top handle , E= easy start , M= Mtronic , R= wrap handle
Thanks!
👍
@@novicelumberjack
That’s an 281e you was using yesterday correct?
@@novicelumberjack You're welcome !!
Magnum = Condoms
The new Light bar design looks a bit too girly in my opinion
More rivets in the tip usually mean they are more resistant to deformation / damage when bore cutting, especially in hard woods like hard maple . One of the things I LOVED about stihl bars is they had 6 rivets and the tips lasted. Conversely I sold a bunch of Tsumara bars and every one had a tip failure within weeks of pro level logger use. Hurt my reputation and it too a while to regain that with the guys I was selling supplies to. Those Tsumara bars had four rivets.
I not understand very well all thoes specifications, I have the Stihl MSA300 witch comes with Light 04 bar, at sametime I have the Stihl 220C witch come with 40cm Rollomatic bar, I went by a Stihl dealer and hask for a 40cm Light 04 for the 220C but it not fits and they go down with a 35cm Light 04 also they change some other part because the chain for this new bar is slim, so now in this saw I have a shorter bar.
I’ve always heard the 6 rivet has more bearings . I was also curious on the 4 rivets of the tsumara for longevity… I’ve had 2 tsumaras, didn’t have a tip failure but I broke both bars. Both of which was my fault. To be honest…. I’ve never actually had a stihl tip failed with the 6 rivet and it’s not even serviceable
@danielsmith8659 mine did not hold up and my customers at the time were lucky to get 3 weeks out of one. This is east coast hard wood logging with gol methodology
@@afleetcommand I’m an east coast guy my self . South east. I really didn’t get enough run time on the tsumaras … to be fair they aren’t exactly cheaper than a regular stihl rollamatic es . I had both on a pro Mac 700 and had to modify them anyway to work correctly. So stihl wasn’t an option for that saw.
What's the difference between ES Light and Light 04?
I have the 18" light04 and 14" on my MSA300 and on the 220C so far they work good.
Good info on the bars.
I would be very curious about the strong bars vs lite bars and how they feel .!!! Great info brother. I didn’t get a video notification maybe you put to many videos out 😂. Joking Arron puts out a lot of videos and I think I get them all.
That paint job on the new stihl bars is different and I do kinda like it but think I also prefer the traditional bar paint scheme. Who knows, it may grow on me!
Thanks for the info👍🏻 I haven't seen them in person yet.
New design looks feminine. Reflection of modern times. I Prefer the rigid and plain.
Cheers for the info mate 👍
Great info cheers.
Not a fan of the new bar graphics, looks like someone made it with a sharpie 👎
Stihl don’t mess up a lot, but this graphic is so bad
I have the 261 ,362 and 400 m tronic ! I converted the 261 to 3/8 sprocket and 20 inch bar and chain. All 3 saws use the same bars and chains !
I, for one, am proud that the Stuttgart Kinder Garten Art and Technology Institute is part of the Stihl bar re-design process.
Hahaha! Looks kinda like that!
Sneaky stihl marketing 🤣🤙🏻
When I get mine back from the shop I'll try it with a 8pin 16" 325
I've been looking at a 500i but they don't really seem to know much about the r except for it is a full wrap and about 150US higher here at my local stihl dealer
Has the wrap handle, large dogs, roller chain catch, west coast clutch cover that’s taller and stiffer av springs.
Good info there man
Awesome content 👏 👌 👍
I still miss the OG Stihl bars, polished not painted, just small orange letters that said "Stihl". I haven't been able to find any of the new bars anywhere yet. I tend to favor cannon or sugi hara, but I do want to see if Stihl has stepped it up with their new ones
I just purchased one, so it took about 8 tanks of gas and that saw really woke up!!! I was impressed.
They are very nice saws for sure.
My 261 m tronic ripped from day 1 .
I just lost the tip in my light 04 , 20 inch 325 , 50 bar after only 5 chains. Probably me full but I hope they hold up ok
If I didn't have this channel and was just going out and using it, I'd see this 400 a lot differently. As it is, I'm doing all these tests on it and it keeps losing. But, it feels great, it runs great, and if I wasn't doing these tests I would have no idea that is was really only high average. Does that make sense?
its hard to deny stihl makes the best saws 😊😊
China sourced parts since 2017. Stihl has went to shit!
"It's where we built our reputation in the first place. To help you identify model features, look for these corresponding symbols: C = Comfort feature, E = Easy2Start™, Q = an additional chain braking system, R = wrap handle, and M = STIHL M-Tronic™." C = more antivibration features
👍good info
I agree
Serial number if you know your stihls are always to the left of the muffler on the side near the chain brake
thx
I don’t understand what anyone is gaining by this change. Unless they are changing how things are being built at the same time and gaining margin.
Well... He was also trying to put 325 chain on an ms400 so.... It probably won't make sense. Lol
Interesting. Either way Im still trying to get the Xtough bar locally. Cheers
Me too bud im not paying ebay prices seen one ad for one of the 04 light bars for 175.00 CAD plus shipping and i bought my light 04 for 80 taxes in
@@JRTreeService-Firewood I use the Oregon power cut light bar. I payed $75 for 24". I also have an 18" and a 16". Good light and cheap. Cheers
I wish they could make it more confusing. Even trying to get a chain now is a joke.
Haha! Yeah, the weeds get thick.
I have that bar on my ms250. Nice little add on imo. Need get you wcs dogs and clutch cover.
Don't wait, do it. I have them on my 250, 271 and 462. They are a must have. The difference in leverage and control is great.
@@whatsapoop I should have made it more clear, I have the wcs dog on my 250 and the dogs and barkbox on my 661.
He needs to add those to the 400.
@@davidash7536 Got ya. Obviously I totally misunderstood your post. You gotta love some WCS dogs. Thanks for the clarification.
@@whatsapoop yes, their 3pt dogs are so amazing. I wish they offered an outer dog for the 250, the dual dog just helps out on keeping it stable.
I wanna go "wow" myself. Finally someone who gets my passion for chainsaws.
We'll have to see how the new bars hold up compared to the ones they're replacing. On a side note, Echo in Europe are releasing new 4010 and 4920 farmer saws. Appear to be smaller and larger versions of the plastic clamshell strato 4510. Hope they aren't coming here soon.
Unfortunately the 4920 is on the way. It will have a smaller bore and longer stroke. The owners manual for the north american market has been out since August?? It is replacing the 4910 and seems to be a clamshell design. Most likely due to the increased price in magnesium for saws with an actual 2 piece case. For about 8 months last year I couldnt order any ECHO equipment that had Mag parts due to global supply shortages.
CS-4010 is replacing the CS-400 which is well due for an update.
I'm really glad I got my 501p when I did!!
Interesting never seen that sheet with the bars. I thought light 04 was a line made for small saws in only .325 but then I seen one on a 7310 so I was confused. It's weird they would designate the rivets on the bar but I guess as a marketing idea it worked cause I been trying to figure it out for a while lol. So it's just a laminated bar with 4 rivets then? Confusing
You’re right, I thought so too. When I got my 261C-M a couple of years ago, I was going to try a .325, 0.050, 18” setup to see if to was going to improve the stock 3/8 LP. Sounds like I have to revisit this again with the dealers. I can just imagine the look I’ll get from my dealer who is not a chainsaw guy.
There is also a light 06 in some markets
Are they actually lighter than the stock bar?
I believe so. I think they have an aluminum core. not sure though.
By chance, was the "little fairy" at Tractor Supply?
Try westcoast saw they might have the sproket conversion kit
c= comfort
I've got a rim that will fit. It's the one they used on the 031. I'll send it too you. I don't think they make them anymore. Was hard for me to find. I was putting an 031 together for a buddy of mine, and it was .325. I searched all over to find it,and supposedly didn't. I told my buddy about the, and he said he wanted to switch it over to 3/8 anyways. I switched it and sent it home. A week ago the saw shop called, and told me they had my rim. I went and got it thinking I might have a use for it someday, and here it is.
Well hot damn diggitty! Email me and I'll send you my address. Boedy@woodsmanessentials.com
@@novicelumberjack I've got it from that saw you sent my cousin. I'll try to get it in the mail tomorrow. Been on the OT I'll take a little time and send it.
C= Comfort, ergonomic and lightweight design. I thought it meant it was a computerized model.
I just bought the MS 400 I find with a 25" bar I don't have to bend over as much still a great saw has plenty of pulll I might be wrong.. Now I'm here to say I don't run a saw like you do I'm only a part time farmer out in the fields cutting few trees down best saw I bought too far.. Like I said just easier on my back.
Try looking for a bigger pin count , like 8 or 9. That will fit on the bigger saws
What is the pin count?
@@ericoverdorff8880 pin count on the drive sprocket. Usually it's a 7 pin.
Still really no point running a .325 on a 67cc saw they stretch real bad. I made up an 18” .325 bar and put a 9 pin on my 066 just for messing around. You wouldn’t want a 7 pin on a big saw anyway saw has too much power for the gearing and you loose chain speed on a .325 vs 3/8”
@@christopherlehman4045 The husqvarna H21 .325 .058 chain I'm running on my 560xp is not streching any more than usual. So a 67cc saw would be fine with .325. And the chain speed is the same on 8 pin .325 and 7 pin 3/8.
Yes it’s probably close but you had to go up one pin you have a smaller less durable chain and cutter on a saw with plenty of power for 3/8” so doesn’t make s whole lot of sense to do it. I’m sure the cut times are almost identical between the 3/8 and .325 on your saw
I believe the C is for comfort
Actually all the new ones that say light on them are lighter than the rollomatic e bars they replaced. They claim an actual weight reduction of approximately 10-20% depending on length. They saved weight my making the rails slightly thinner and changing the nose profile. The p will replace the older poly core light bars and the 06 is just the heavier duty bar with 6 rivet tip like the old rollomatic es.
Gotcha. So a tiny bit lighter. So far, I like mine. We'll see how they hold up.
@@novicelumberjack Can you send this cross-reference to me?
@OliverDiGeronimo21 don't have it anymore. Take a screen shot.
Sip bos 👍👍 bagus
County line is China tri-link in a tractor supply box takes a file pretty good kinda mehhh out of the box
Streaches like mad on a powerful saw and has inconsistent tooth hardness on the ones I tried. Some teeth file like butter and other ones on same chain are so hard the file skates across the tooth without cutting. Only tried a couple tri link pro bars and chains to demo. The bar tip let go after a week of hard use
Yep! Same with powercare from home depot and craftsman from lowes. Been pleased with it in 3/8lp so far. Recently picked up 1 .325 loop and 1 3/8 loop to try out. Looks and feels extremely similar to holzfforma chain.
Glad you found out what light means be because I was goin to grind the finish off for obvious disappointment now you broke it down! Misleading marketing
While I am a fan of the stihl rollamatic es bar. Only the es …. Not the regular rollamatic . If you want a cheap laminate or stamped bar you have a lot of other cheap options . Oregon being a good example. If you aren’t gonna buy a pro bar from stihl….get a cheap one else where . It’s just the truth
🦅🇺🇸💪😁👍
Didn't get new video alert! I thought hitting the notification bell was so you would get new video notifications! WTF YT! 👍🆙BigGuy!
It should I didn’t get this one either
The last month or so, I've only been getting a little under half of my YT notifications🧐 having to check my subscriptions list a few times a day. So you're not alone!
oh, and your light 04 is a copy (or made by) oregon versacut. Aluminum core, non-replaceable tip.
Not made by Oregon, Stihl makes their own bars in Germany and the USA in the bar plant they opened in Virginia Beach awhile back.
@@christopherlehman4045 Yyyyyyyep!!
Ugly paint job tho on them new barrs
The new designs are a bit...well hideous, imo
you're getting way too caught up in the "I think this size bar and this size saw are blah blah...." I would tell you what my anecdotal use case in my anecdotal wood type are blah blah... and you would think I'm full of shit, or you could... I love your stuff, and I love your process, just stop gettin hung up on the size.... we know it's how you use it!
Hey my bar is perfectly.. adequate.
Wait did you say fuel mapping 😢
No there really isn’t a mapping in the fuel system. It just takes a 400 Stihl 8-10 tanks to fully seat the rings. Mtronic saws don’t have a break in map they just have a set map in the coil and it just tunes lean-rich many times a second to try to hold a certain rpm. And technically an mtronic saws is just a carb saw with a solenoid controlled jet. The coil, carb and flywheel are the main parts that are different between the standard carb and mtronic versions of Stihl saws. The 400 only comes mtronic.
My mistake, I shouldn't have said fuel mapping. I was hinting more towards a timing curve type of governing. Chris, do you know for certain that they do not have a limiting function, or are you just assuming, or passing along info as you heard it from someone else who may be assuming? I'm just trying to sort through the weeds. Fact or assumption. Do you KNOW there is no limiting control built in...or are you assuming? And if you know, where did you get the info? I'd love to get my hands on it.
I figured actual fuel mapping wasn’t happening. A fusable link on the coil like the echo dealer told me was on the 7310 could be a viable possibility. I must say thow it is strato or air over charge. With laziness built in to m tronic technologies is a bunch of EPA BS. There is one reason auto tune / m tronic would be worth having that would be if I’m giving saws to employees and not wanting them to touch anything. Other then that sthil and husky can shove it I don’t care how good they get at building them I was upset with husky for doing it now sthil can eat a big fat one also 🤣 sorry for my negativity towards that saw your trying to love so much boedy. Sometimes we try and justify our purchases in spectacular unreal ways. I truly hope it gets better for you man.
It’s not a smart system really just a set program mapped into the control that’s part of the coil. It reads rpm on the magnets and uses a solenoid on the zama carb to tune lean or rich to maintain a desirable rpm that’s it. It’s the rings taking time to seat in for the 6-10 tanks and that will vary on how hard you run it. Ran my 400 stock for one tank then i advanced the timing and opened the muffler up. The saw is designed to be an up to 14000 rpm saw and stihls largest saw designed to run that factory spec. Mtronic is not a super complex system and really no reason to be scared of it. Been out over 10 years
Mtronic or autotune does far better overall than you and your screwdriver can. Plus if you get an air leak it will save the saw a lot of times. Will still run like crap but it may keep the cylinder from cooking.
Light 06 is 3/8
Nope. This bar here is 3/8 and it is light 04. 06 must just be the longer bars, and they only come in 3/8.
I'm 56 yrs old been a machinists all my life. The bar & chain is less than a 1/2 lb lighter combined. However the chain is thinner and so is the bar. They say the lighter chain runs faster. So faster means the bar gets hotter & the thinner chain stretches easier. Plus they are a little more expensive. Don't see much improvement. Why try to change something that has worked so well for so long. Just my opinion.
What u saying stick with the old bars ??? I'm curious to know, I thank you in advance Gunter
@@gunterbecker8528 I like the old bars. The new ones are lighter. Seems as though they would also get hotter quicker, causing them to stretch. I believe, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I bought the one with the old style chain and bar.
Hate the stupid graphics on the bar.
It’s almost like you are trying to make yourself like stihl. Call it what it is today, overrated, overpriced. Do they make some good saws? Absolutely. Do they make some junk? Absolutely.
Just like all brands just how cheap you want to be when buying a saw. If you buy a pro mag case with separate cylinder saw from husky, echo or Stihl it’s a good saw. If you buy a 170-200$ saw it won’t take heavy use. Still know plenty of tree services that had Stihl then tried to save money by purchasing echo and they all ended back with Stihl and or husky.
Just like Husky, some good and some suck, really bad. Power equipment comes with its own level of dependability and durability, both traits come with a price tag. Always buy the best you can afford and you won't be sorry. If you shop by price you may not be able to afford the repair or replacement to get best.
I agree, that’s my point exactly. Each company makes homeowner saws, and pro saws.
🥱 boring