Watching you here it occurred to me that maybe I should depress the trigger while trying to incert the striker and that absolutely worked!! It clicked just like it does in the video and now I've got it all back together! I can't thank you enough my friend. You have officially gained hero status in my house. This is the second time I've taken it apart and put it back together. The first time I didn't take the valve and striker out so I didn't have that problem but the pistol wouldn't function properly. It took air just fine and there were no leaks and it fired once and the magazine rotated but it wouldn't fire again until I engaged the safety then disengaged the safety and it fired. I shot all 17 pellets that way. Fire......put it on safe......take it off safe.....fire! Using that method it would fire and cycle it just wouldn't fire again until I engaged and disengaged the safety. Obviously I had something wrong with how I put it back together so this is my second attempt to see if it operates correctly. Initially the magazine front cover had broken and the spring that goes in behind the striker had broken. The cause of those 2 things is a mystery. I've no clue what caused either and before those 2 things happened I had not taken the pistol apart. No need since there was no problem until those 2 malfunctions. Maybe it will work right this time. I'll let you know. Thank you again for your priceless help!
Gregor, thank you, you saved my Huben. I had a magazine jam, from not seating one of the slugs all the way. Ran a cleaning rod down the barrel thinking maybe the pellet was part way into the barrel. Nope, so took the 2 screws out, and the end cap, spring, and then ran the cleaning rod through. Well, everything popped out, including the valve. And it fell through the AC vent on the floor of my mobile home. BUT I didn't know it. Got the pellets out, and mag turning nice. Tried to re-assemble, but could tell something was missing. Watched this video of yours, and presto! THE VALVE! Stuck my cell phone camera down in the vent, and sure enough, there was the valve, but way out of reach. Seems my vent is tilted, and it rolled part way down! Finally fished it out with a piece of welding wire. All back together, and working like new! Thanks Bud!
Thank you for the work you put into these videos, Gregor. I just bought a new K 1 three weeks ago and had my first pellet jam the other day. I was able to take the rifle apart to clear the pellet and reassemble it with no problems. Keep up the great job!
A very long but detailed video for Huben K1 v2 as you also discussed the exact settings that you can do on the gun and explain leak points and how to spot them Thank you very much always and I consider you No. 1 in the explanation helpful Thank you my friend.
Gregor, Thank you very much for the video. I have been waiting almost two years to get my gun repaired and now I have your guidance, I can do it myself........................Thank's Robert
Hi Gregor, I have followed your disassembly instruction - which i fantastic. I have jammed magazine and I had to disassembly the gun. All works great the only thin I have change is the washers in valve (I Think I had 3x3 and I have change to 2x2 on/off as per your video). I have reassembly the gun and when pressurise it (with my compressor) the gun is firing like auto gun even when the trigger is not press out. Please advice what I have done wrong.
I think I did some small adjustment to the triggers spring. I have adjust it again today and its look like is back to normal (no more auto-firing; only when trigger is pressed). Thank you Gregor for your quick reply and help.
What you said at 30:22 did not work for me: with the left side loose i had a leak. Right side loose no leak. Also saw a different o-Ring than the one in the drawings in left side. Maybe an older one? Anyway - many thanks from Germany!
If you followed my instructions, the left side should be empty, so how could there be a leak? I assume you had a leak form the right side, that can happen even if the regulator works (seals) OK when both sides are pressurized. This video is quite old. New guns do have different o-rings and also, the plenum tube is made of aluminium and has thicker walls...
Ah, i should say that i had a leak After reassambling. but i was able to fix it, ive only tightened the left Side, right Side loose. So thats Fine. But after that my magazine is skipping. Lets say it tries to turn while shooting but cant turn. Also without pellets loaded. Turning by Hand feels quite okay. Took of Plastic part and loading Gate to make sure nothings in its way. Aaand, watched all your Videos. But I dont get it. Any idea Master?😅😊 Ah, got 5.50 h&n. Guess thats too small, right?
@@SP-qv7vj 5,50 will work but they will probably not be very accurate. Regarding your issue: if you mean that the magazine does not rotate at after a shot, then there could be few options: Maybe the flat spring on the indexing pin broke and it is not pushing the pin towards the magazine. Also possible that the indexing mechanism is not running properly. Does the magazine release leaver work OK (can you turn the magazine when you lift it and not anymore once you release it - the rifle must be pressurised for this test...)?
@@gregorkamensek3923 yes, I can rotate the magazine and it is only possible if the release leaver releases the magazine. What confuses me is that the magazine wobbles a bit when it tries to rotate. as if the power wasn't enough (150bar). But it doesn't block anything because I have dismantled everything that could block. I think so. could the barrel be screwed on too tightly? Thank you
@@SP-qv7vj If it is wobbling, then the spring tensioned roller on the top of the magazine is not doing its job. There can be multiple reasons for that (like broken spring or something obstructing it...), but you should definitely not shoot in this state as this roller aligns the magazine with the barrel, and if it does not work, it will fire when misaligned.
Gregor, I had some questions you answered regarding one of your other videos. The problem was my cylinder was not rotating and at all the thus I had to disassemble. What I found was the Horseshoe plastic part on about 28.15 -28.4 minutes on THIS video mine had cracked into two pieces. My question to you is what does that plastic part do and have you ever had or know about this piece of plastic breaking? It seems to me that plastic against metal is not the best, Thanks for all the great instructions you give us.
The only purpose of this part is to prevent slugs/pellets to move forward and jam the gun... If you only use pellet that have larger skirts, then this will not happen anyway, but with smaller diameter slugs them might move forward. Cou can either use the gun without it or maybe you can find similar thickness plastic and carve the part out of it. You can also order this part form huben.shop: www.hubenairguns.shop/collections/parts/products/magazine-front-cover-spare-part-71
Hi Gregor, a another very good video from you on Huben K1 airgun. I am wondering if you can give the dimension for both special tool ( rod ) that you used to pull and set the valve seat seal on the action. All may need them as well to redress if necessary. I believe we can make it locally since I can not find it to buy online...
Hi. It is really hard to give dimensions of the tool as there are some gradual conical parts and rough material surfaces on it that makes sure the seal stays on the tool when removing it. I would suggest you contact huben to see if they can send the tool to you...
Gregor i just noticed at 26:54 you put the mag in place but you forgot the small u shaped riser it is on the bench next to the allen wrench, this has to go under the mag as it guides the pellets to line up with the barrel. If you leave that out the pellets drop into the gap and stops the mag from turning. This small u shaped spacer is very important. Ah ok 27:49 i see you removed the mag and put it in place, that little spacer is very important, i found out the hard way and ended up with the dreded blowbacks.
@@gregorkamensek3923 lol I didn't realise it existed as it dropped on the floor when I took the magazine off, put it back together, went up the farm and bang, a huge blowback where the pellet got wedged in the void. Come home and found it under the bench. I'm surprised there didn't glue it.
@@PeakyBlinder Yeh, you could glue it as well but then you would need to reglue it anytime you disassemble the barrel. It is best to just keep the magazine in the assembly so it does not fall out...
at 45 minutes my K1 mk 2 has a rubber washer in the stock which goes under the adjusting wheel.. Gregors video is not showing this 2mm thick rubber washer .
Hi Gregor, how are you?. I hope that very good. I ask you a question ..... how can I buy the complete part of the huben action mechanism version 2 ?. Here, in Argentina, it is very difficult to get it and I would like to have it as replacement in case it didn't work, and also several seals (metal and plastic parts) and all the o'rings. Thank you
Not really. I asked this question Huben a while ago and they said that it is best to contact them with this question and serial number. They can then tell you what configuration it is.
Good morning, I was able to solve the pressure problem, I just needed to tighten the regulator screw. Another question, is it normal to leak some air through the hole in the metal part of the top of the regulator when it is pressurized and without the springs? I'm having a small leak from the main tube into the regulated chamber, when I set the pressure to 160 bar it goes up slowly (8 minutes) to 200 bar.
Hi, I have a 2018 k1 and I can not raise the regulator pressure to over 150 bar, I've tried several washers configurations, never exceed 150 bar, what do you think it could be?
That is an odd problem. You should go over 150 with ease with )))((()))(((... configuration. Even with ))(())((... you should be able to go to at least 190 bars... either your regulator needs to be replaced of there is something wrong with you pressure gauge.
@@gregorkamensek3923 thanks alot. How many turns/clicks (from fully closed) would you recommend to turn open the wheel, when you shoot 35gr slugs with 190bar regulated pressure. sry for disturbing you with my questions 🖖
@@judgementcharles840 Start with 2 full revolutions and go up to 2,5 or even 3 revolutions. With 190 bars and 35 grain slugs, you can even have the power wheel fully opened as the valves close faster at higher pressures... The power wheel is fully opened at just over 3 revolutions despite the fact that it can rotate father out. All guns are slightly different regarding this, so this is just a starting point. Test it your self and see what works best for you. In my gun, 180 bar pressure with about 2,5 revolution on power wheel is the best setting for 35 grain slugs.
hello Gregor, there was a problem, after the air coming out of the smaller tank, the air continues to leave the large tank through the pressure regulator, I changed the o-ring in it and the problem is not gone away because of this the pressure in the small tank is constantly increasing to 200 bar which you can give advice ?
Hi. I believe I already answered to you in the AGN forum but I just noticed that you wrote to me about plastic part begin broken on you regulator. I assumed that it was another part that is not that important, but form the description you have sent now, I am positive that the broken plastic part is actually this main regulator seal... You will have to replace it... Right now, regulator is just letting everything through...
Hi, I yesterday installed this plastic ring regulator also missed the air .... and I tried to tighten the body of the regulator stronger and the leakage passed ... the pressure holds 160 bar. It seems that the ring inside the regulator needed a more dense press. nevertheless I want to replace a small plastic ring. In Russia, the problem with the rings of rubber nbr 90 have to put nbr 70 I do not know how much they will serve (((
hello Gregor, when I was disassembling and assembling the pressure regulator, the O-ring was damaged and a small plastic ring burst into 2 parts, what is it for? than it can be replaced? Regulator without it works .....
I assume it is the small plastic ring that is in the top of the tube (the deepest part of the regulator). That ring is there so the o-ring that presses up against it has a longer lifetime... If you put the NBR-90 o-ring, they it should be just fine without it...
Thank you! For 24 hours the pressure kept at 160 bar and the leak stopped. I want to make a small ring is not made of plastic but made of bronze or aluminum ....
thank you Gregor! still issue .... the first shot is always at a high speed of 160 bar 297 m / s following 288-290 and the pressure regulator starts working .... how better to fix it? and yet you replaced the white seal in the pressure regulator with a black one for what? Thank you)))
Nothing sems to change on the Huben website...are you still as positively convinced with the K1 after all this time ? Any updates planned ? Also, which barrel would be best if my main intent is to use Bullets (or slugs) and not pellets ?
Definitely. I use both my K1 a lot and love them. I use almost exclusively bullets, sometimes also Monster Redesigned... The only thing I have is the bullets are not available of the shelf, but I will have som great option for making them in the next few videos. If you have V2, then your barrel is just fine for bullets, no need to replace it.
In any case, I will be getting that mold that you demonstrated too. I like do-it-yourself solutions which is why I love your videos.... really an invaluable resource, thanks !!
Wonder how long it'll be before these wonder-rifles are going to be available in any serious numbers here in the USA? So far, most haven't even HEARD of it yet.
I was actually thinking of doing that, as it would make the cylinder shorter, easier filling and also It would waste a lot less air, because there is quite a big volume probe part that just goes to waste when you are filling the gun... I have not done it yet...
I have followed all of Gregors videos .. My Huben K1 mk 2 is experiencing a magazine failure to feed issue .. I have modified the parts Gregor recommende .. Logically this Mod should have sorted the magazine feed failure issues .It hasn,t . Replacing the .22 FX slugs with JSB jumbo monster redesigned .22 Pellets has returned my K1 mk2. to reliable operation . Has anyone else had feed issues when attempting to use FX .22 slugs.
I personally haven tried these slugs, but all these kind of slugs will have a problem with accuracy and reliability as they are too small to be used in this gun. I suggest you stick to Redesigns or maybe dedicated Huben slugs
AVS and NSA slugs 36 to 42 grains ought to work well for you. I have used them in the past after setting the regulator to 19 mpa's to shoot them at 1,000 fps thereabouts. Make sure your settings are at least 17 mpa's on the reg and adjust the power wheel for 1,000 fps more or less because lesser power than that will bring about the DREADED JAMS of the magazines, which are a PAIN to fix. Best to you.
Watching you here it occurred to me that maybe I should depress the trigger while trying to incert the striker and that absolutely worked!! It clicked just like it does in the video and now I've got it all back together! I can't thank you enough my friend. You have officially gained hero status in my house. This is the second time I've taken it apart and put it back together. The first time I didn't take the valve and striker out so I didn't have that problem but the pistol wouldn't function properly. It took air just fine and there were no leaks and it fired once and the magazine rotated but it wouldn't fire again until I engaged the safety then disengaged the safety and it fired. I shot all 17 pellets that way. Fire......put it on safe......take it off safe.....fire! Using that method it would fire and cycle it just wouldn't fire again until I engaged and disengaged the safety. Obviously I had something wrong with how I put it back together so this is my second attempt to see if it operates correctly. Initially the magazine front cover had broken and the spring that goes in behind the striker had broken. The cause of those 2 things is a mystery. I've no clue what caused either and before those 2 things happened I had not taken the pistol apart. No need since there was no problem until those 2 malfunctions. Maybe it will work right this time. I'll let you know. Thank you again for your priceless help!
Gregor, thank you, you saved my Huben. I had a magazine jam, from not seating one of the slugs all the way. Ran a cleaning rod down the barrel thinking maybe the pellet was part way into the barrel. Nope, so took the 2 screws out, and the end cap, spring, and then ran the cleaning rod through. Well, everything popped out, including the valve. And it fell through the AC vent on the floor of my mobile home. BUT I didn't know it. Got the pellets out, and mag turning nice. Tried to re-assemble, but could tell something was missing. Watched this video of yours, and presto! THE VALVE! Stuck my cell phone camera down in the vent, and sure enough, there was the valve, but way out of reach. Seems my vent is tilted, and it rolled part way down! Finally fished it out with a piece of welding wire. All back together, and working like new! Thanks Bud!
Thank you for the work you put into these videos, Gregor. I just bought a new K 1 three weeks ago and had my first pellet jam the other day. I was able to take the rifle apart to clear the pellet and reassemble it with no problems. Keep up the great job!
Happy to hear that
Great, Just in time Gregor, now every Huben owner could service the gun without trouble!!! Thanks a lot.
A very long but detailed video for Huben K1 v2 as you also discussed the exact settings that you can do on the gun and explain leak points and how to spot them Thank you very much always and I consider you No. 1 in the explanation helpful Thank you my friend.
Gregor, Thank you very much for the video. I have been waiting almost two years to get my gun repaired
and now I have your guidance, I can do it myself........................Thank's
Robert
piękna robota
tego brakowało na tym kanale
wreszcie ktoś pokazał wszystko co i jak
po kolei od śrubeczki do śrubeczki
serdecznie pozdrawiam
Wow... this video is really good for everybody who has this rifle!!! Great work!
Man, I wish we could get those in Canada. I love all things mechanical, and that thing is a wonder. Thanks for sharing your insight.
Hi Gregor,
I have followed your disassembly instruction - which i fantastic. I have jammed magazine and I had to disassembly the gun. All works great the only thin I have change is the washers in valve (I Think I had 3x3 and I have change to 2x2 on/off as per your video). I have reassembly the gun and when pressurise it (with my compressor) the gun is firing like auto gun even when the trigger is not press out. Please advice what I have done wrong.
Did you maybe make some adjustments to the trigger springs?
I think I did some small adjustment to the triggers spring. I have adjust it again today and its look like is back to normal (no more auto-firing; only when trigger is pressed). Thank you Gregor for your quick reply and help.
@@piotar75 No. problem. That spring adjustment is very sensitive...
What you said at 30:22 did not work for me: with the left side loose i had a leak. Right side loose no leak. Also saw a different o-Ring than the one in the drawings in left side. Maybe an older one? Anyway - many thanks from Germany!
If you followed my instructions, the left side should be empty, so how could there be a leak? I assume you had a leak form the right side, that can happen even if the regulator works (seals) OK when both sides are pressurized. This video is quite old. New guns do have different o-rings and also, the plenum tube is made of aluminium and has thicker walls...
Ah, i should say that i had a leak After reassambling. but i was able to fix it, ive only tightened the left Side, right Side loose. So thats Fine.
But after that my magazine is skipping. Lets say it tries to turn while shooting but cant turn. Also without pellets loaded. Turning by Hand feels quite okay. Took of Plastic part and loading Gate to make sure nothings in its way.
Aaand, watched all your Videos. But I dont get it.
Any idea Master?😅😊
Ah, got 5.50 h&n. Guess thats too small, right?
@@SP-qv7vj 5,50 will work but they will probably not be very accurate.
Regarding your issue: if you mean that the magazine does not rotate at after a shot, then there could be few options: Maybe the flat spring on the indexing pin broke and it is not pushing the pin towards the magazine. Also possible that the indexing mechanism is not running properly. Does the magazine release leaver work OK (can you turn the magazine when you lift it and not anymore once you release it - the rifle must be pressurised for this test...)?
@@gregorkamensek3923 yes, I can rotate the magazine and it is only possible if the release leaver releases the magazine. What confuses me is that the magazine wobbles a bit when it tries to rotate. as if the power wasn't enough (150bar). But it doesn't block anything because I have dismantled everything that could block. I think so. could the barrel be screwed on too tightly? Thank you
@@SP-qv7vj If it is wobbling, then the spring tensioned roller on the top of the magazine is not doing its job. There can be multiple reasons for that (like broken spring or something obstructing it...), but you should definitely not shoot in this state as this roller aligns the magazine with the barrel, and if it does not work, it will fire when misaligned.
I sure wish it was possible to make a minimal / "tactical" version of this gun like the FX Impact.
Gregor, I had some questions you answered regarding one of your other videos. The problem was my cylinder was not rotating and at all the thus I had to disassemble. What I found was the Horseshoe plastic part on about 28.15 -28.4 minutes on THIS video mine had cracked into two pieces. My question to you is what does that plastic part do and have you ever had or know about this piece of plastic breaking? It seems to me that plastic against metal is not the best, Thanks for all the great instructions you give us.
The only purpose of this part is to prevent slugs/pellets to move forward and jam the gun... If you only use pellet that have larger skirts, then this will not happen anyway, but with smaller diameter slugs them might move forward. Cou can either use the gun without it or maybe you can find similar thickness plastic and carve the part out of it. You can also order this part form huben.shop: www.hubenairguns.shop/collections/parts/products/magazine-front-cover-spare-part-71
Hi Gregor, a another very good video from you on Huben K1 airgun. I am wondering if you can give the dimension for both special tool ( rod ) that you used to pull and set the valve seat seal on the action. All may need them as well to redress if necessary. I believe we can make it locally since I can not find it to buy online...
Hi. It is really hard to give dimensions of the tool as there are some gradual conical parts and rough material surfaces on it that makes sure the seal stays on the tool when removing it.
I would suggest you contact huben to see if they can send the tool to you...
@@gregorkamensek3923 I understand ...will try to contact huben
Gregor i just noticed at 26:54 you put the mag in place but you forgot the small u shaped riser it is on the bench next to the allen wrench, this has to go under the mag as it guides the pellets to line up with the barrel.
If you leave that out the pellets drop into the gap and stops the mag from turning.
This small u shaped spacer is very important.
Ah ok 27:49 i see you removed the mag and put it in place, that little spacer is very important, i found out the hard way and ended up with the dreded blowbacks.
Yep, you found it :) This time, I noticed it relatively fast. Sometimes I finish assembly of the gun and then notice that I forgot to insert it :(
@@gregorkamensek3923 lol I didn't realise it existed as it dropped on the floor when I took the magazine off, put it back together, went up the farm and bang, a huge blowback where the pellet got wedged in the void.
Come home and found it under the bench.
I'm surprised there didn't glue it.
@@PeakyBlinder Yeh, you could glue it as well but then you would need to reglue it anytime you disassemble the barrel. It is best to just keep the magazine in the assembly so it does not fall out...
at 45 minutes my K1 mk 2 has a rubber washer in the stock which goes under the adjusting wheel.. Gregors video is not showing this 2mm thick rubber washer .
Hi Gregor, how are you?. I hope that very good. I ask you a question ..... how can I buy the complete part of the huben action mechanism version 2 ?. Here, in Argentina, it is very difficult to get it and I would like to have it as replacement in case it didn't work, and also several seals (metal and plastic parts) and all the o'rings. Thank you
Hi. I do not have an answer for you. I would contact your local distributor and huben directly after that...
Is their a good way to tell what year my K1 was made? Also if LW or China made barrel?
Not really. I asked this question Huben a while ago and they said that it is best to contact them with this question and serial number. They can then tell you what configuration it is.
Good morning, I was able to solve the pressure problem, I just needed to tighten the regulator screw.
Another question, is it normal to leak some air through the hole in the metal part of the top of the regulator when it is pressurized and without the springs?
I'm having a small leak from the main tube into the regulated chamber, when I set the pressure to 160 bar it goes up slowly (8 minutes) to 200 bar.
You probably have damaged main plastic seal on the regulator (plastic part around the regulator steam)...
(plastic part around the regulator stem)...
where can i buy another?
Boa noite tenho uma k1 g3 está com problema na peça que faz ciclo do magazine você não teria ela para venda.
I suggest you contact: www.hubenairguns.shop/
gregor your vids are so so good. thankyou for doing this.
Thanks :) Happy to do it.
Hi, I have a 2018 k1 and I can not raise the regulator pressure to over 150 bar, I've tried several washers configurations, never exceed 150 bar, what do you think it could be?
That is an odd problem. You should go over 150 with ease with )))((()))(((... configuration. Even with ))(())((... you should be able to go to at least 190 bars... either your regulator needs to be replaced of there is something wrong with you pressure gauge.
Good job! Thanks for Your work. If You ever measure size of Huben orings, let us know :)
There is just too many o-rings to measure them all. Maybe Hube can give you a list...
what does the powerwheel regulate ? and what does the regulator regulate?
Power wheel regulates time the valves are opened, regulator regulates the regulated pressure...
@@gregorkamensek3923 thanks alot. How many turns/clicks (from fully closed) would you recommend to turn open the wheel, when you shoot 35gr slugs with 190bar regulated pressure. sry for disturbing you with my questions 🖖
@@judgementcharles840 Start with 2 full revolutions and go up to 2,5 or even 3 revolutions. With 190 bars and 35 grain slugs, you can even have the power wheel fully opened as the valves close faster at higher pressures... The power wheel is fully opened at just over 3 revolutions despite the fact that it can rotate father out. All guns are slightly different regarding this, so this is just a starting point. Test it your self and see what works best for you. In my gun, 180 bar pressure with about 2,5 revolution on power wheel is the best setting for 35 grain slugs.
@@gregorkamensek3923 Thank you so much Master
hello Gregor, there was a problem, after the air coming out of the smaller tank, the air continues to leave the large tank through the pressure regulator, I changed the o-ring in it and the problem is not gone away because of this the pressure in the small tank is constantly increasing to 200 bar which you can give advice ?
Hi. I believe I already answered to you in the AGN forum but I just noticed that you wrote to me about plastic part begin broken on you regulator. I assumed that it was another part that is not that important, but form the description you have sent now, I am positive that the broken plastic part is actually this main regulator seal... You will have to replace it... Right now, regulator is just letting everything through...
Hi, I yesterday installed this plastic ring regulator also missed the air .... and I tried to tighten the body of the regulator stronger and the leakage passed ... the pressure holds 160 bar. It seems that the ring inside the regulator needed a more dense press. nevertheless I want to replace a small plastic ring. In Russia, the problem with the rings of rubber nbr 90 have to put nbr 70 I do not know how much they will serve (((
Take some pictures of the installed plastic ring and either put them on AGN or write me a private massage and I will give you my email contact.
Gregor Kamenšek I wrote you a letter in private mail on the agn forum
hello Gregor, when I was disassembling and assembling the pressure regulator, the O-ring was damaged and a small plastic ring burst into 2 parts, what is it for? than it can be replaced? Regulator without it works .....
I assume it is the small plastic ring that is in the top of the tube (the deepest part of the regulator). That ring is there so the o-ring that presses up against it has a longer lifetime... If you put the NBR-90 o-ring, they it should be just fine without it...
Thank you! For 24 hours the pressure kept at 160 bar and the leak stopped. I want to make a small ring is not made of plastic but made of bronze or aluminum ....
That was actually my answer but I responded for another UA-cam account... :)
You can make it out of metal as you mentioned...
thank you Gregor! still issue .... the first shot is always at a high speed of 160 bar 297 m / s following 288-290 and the pressure regulator starts working .... how better to fix it? and yet you replaced the white seal in the pressure regulator with a black one for what? Thank you)))
what is the best in 5.5 pcp
Nothing sems to change on the Huben website...are you still as positively convinced with the K1 after all this time ? Any updates planned ? Also, which barrel would be best if my main intent is to use Bullets (or slugs) and not pellets ?
Definitely. I use both my K1 a lot and love them. I use almost exclusively bullets, sometimes also Monster Redesigned... The only thing I have is the bullets are not available of the shelf, but I will have som great option for making them in the next few videos. If you have V2, then your barrel is just fine for bullets, no need to replace it.
I made a typo: The only thing I HATE is the bullets are not available of the shelf
In any case, I will be getting that mold that you demonstrated too. I like do-it-yourself solutions which is why I love your videos.... really an invaluable resource, thanks !!
You should wait, I am just testing a new prototype, this new mold will be available in less than one month...
Wonder how long it'll be before these wonder-rifles are going to be available in any serious numbers here in the USA? So far, most haven't even HEARD of it yet.
Yes, you are right, but I don't have an answer for you...
great presentation ..
Has anyone made a replacement quick disconnect to replace the air filler cap on the air cylinder?
I was actually thinking of doing that, as it would make the cylinder shorter, easier filling and also It would waste a lot less air, because there is quite a big volume probe part that just goes to waste when you are filling the gun... I have not done it yet...
When you do, I would like to buy one for my Huben. Thanks!
and also put a gauge on the end of the cylinder, this is the only real annoying part about the rifle!
That is not so easy (safe) to do as you would have to replace the whole end cap (not only the fill port cap), because the one way valve if behind it.
But I do agree that the gauge would be very useful...
I have followed all of Gregors videos .. My Huben K1 mk 2 is experiencing a magazine failure to feed issue .. I have modified the parts Gregor recommende .. Logically this Mod should have sorted the magazine feed failure issues .It hasn,t . Replacing the .22 FX slugs with JSB jumbo monster redesigned .22 Pellets has returned my K1 mk2. to reliable operation . Has anyone else had feed issues when attempting to use FX .22 slugs.
I personally haven tried these slugs, but all these kind of slugs will have a problem with accuracy and reliability as they are too small to be used in this gun. I suggest you stick to Redesigns or maybe dedicated Huben slugs
AVS and NSA slugs 36 to 42 grains ought to work well for you. I have used them in the past after setting the regulator to 19 mpa's to shoot them at 1,000 fps thereabouts. Make sure your settings are at least 17 mpa's on the reg and adjust the power wheel for 1,000 fps more or less because lesser power than that will bring about the DREADED JAMS of the magazines, which are a PAIN to fix. Best to you.
Thank you my friend
Thanks for the vid ! My K1 magazine got stuck because i shot heavy ammo with 7,5 joule setting 🤭
Yep, that can happen. This is why I usually start with a bit higher power with new slugs just in case... It is a lot of work to clear this problem
Yes indeed. But it was interesting too and with your video everyone can do it ! Thanks again, helped me a lot 👍👍
May God protect your daughters
Witaj Gregor Kupiłem właśnie w Hubena i mam z nim problem czy możemy porozmawiać na priv? vidar1@o2.pl Pozdrawiam.
Help:-)