6076 John Deere Engine Block Machining - Lower Bore Repair Sleeves - Deck Resurface
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- In this video, we do some machine work on a 6076 John Deere engine block. Machine work performed includes:
-Surfacing deck surface of block
-Machining sleeve upper flange counterbores for correct sleeve protrusion
-Machining block to install lower bore repair sleeves
Machining performed on RMC-1000 boring and surfacing mill at Jim’s Automotive Machine Shop, Inc. in Colorado.
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Website: www.jamsionline.com
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The Dad has a fine son, the Son has a great Dad
His dad must he proud seeing him spreading a lifetime of skills out to everyone to learn.
Very good teamwork between them too
Great video. One thing, instead of taking the tool head out of the boring head could you just shift your x axis and lower the head in and then return to zero. Like a fine bore shift on a CNC machine, index the cutter to c0 shift negative x enough to clear the first bore, move into the block and then shift positive x back to 0. Might not work without the proper clearances but just a thought that may speed up the process.
Nick, tell dad to get the guest room ready, I'm moving out your way to work for knowledge, experience and food. See you guys soon
Retired Farmer, Great video, Great Father Son team. That's way it is in a job show a little nerve wreaking at times, there is no second chance.
Good to see some young guys stepping up and learning the art of machine work! It’s getting to be a lost art.
It really is with todays throwaway style
Kind of wish you old f's would kick off.
I've noticed that anytime I have an engine with a internal issue at the shop I recommend depending on the failure to take it to the machine shop but usually they just buy a used engine to install
the correct way to measure protrusion is to lock the liners down with a cross bar to 50# and measure. you also don't want more than .002" variance across all cylinders. I cut those in frame on semi trucks with a portable cutter. good work.
Love watching this stuff ! Its good to see engineers doing stuff properly and taking care to do it ! Merry Christmas from the UK 👍
On the cylindet liner depth check , doesn't need to torq it to simulate the cylinder head pressure on the liner to get the standard depth ?? Nice job !! Congrats!!
I’ve been looking for your UA-cam channel and I found it today this video was in my recommendes! Love the tik tok content as
Well and these more in depth detailed episodes
haha Thank you! Glad you found us! The UA-cam is starting to take off, so I definitely feel more motivated to make the longer videos ;). Gonna try for at least one a week!
Thankful for your videos. Just started an apprenticeship at a machine shop. Have a lot of Deere blocks and cats some through.
Well, folks, this is how it’s done! I have installed upper and/or lower repair rings on many Cummins blocks. The rings we used were finished only on the outside and required finish boring. Luckily the o ring grooves were in the liner rather than the block. This was in the late 70’s. I left the trade to make more money than auto machine work paid. I would have loved to stay in the business but the 40% more money plus double benifits and retirement made my choice clear. I retired after 35 years as a truck mechanic and it’s great.
My example is a common reason not many young people are entering the trade, at least around here. Thanks for the trip down memory lane😁
that was a very technical job which took careful planning and patience. Take the time you need, no rush , work thru each step , well done.
Curious as to why you hammered the repair rings into the block while still mounted on the machine? In my personal experience with general machining you don't want to use a machine tool as a work bench with hammering objects on them.
Really cool to see how the engine machining is done and I have done some light engine work with working on cars for a living and having a personal machine shop for my projects. Drilling out broken bolts when welding nuts doesn't work and some other various items of machining for car parts.
Set the camera up on a stable base. People get dizzy (me included) when you hand hold the camera and continually move it even the slightest. Excellent videos though.
As I was looking at that block and the surface rust in the passages it made me wonder if that ferris oxide could be converted into ferric oxide in a boiler so it would be a natural rust inhibitor that would work with the coolant rust inhibitor. 🤔
It's used for gun smithing for surface repair and conversion.
I went to trade school for machining and I loved it! Somehow I ended up being an automotive Technician instead...which I enjoy as well! But I’ve thought about getting back into machining!
Great video
Don’t let the Internet pushbutton warriors aggravate you just don’t pay them no mind.
I’ve worked on Deere engines for 25 years I’ve heard of this repair but never seen it done before. Machine shops around here use marine-tex and then machine it out it works OK but your repair is a whole lot better thanks
If liner protrusion is not quite right, you can get shims from jd.
Have you guys ever done a Aircooled VW block?
good lad, I was milling today on my Dads old mill, been doing it for 43 years.
Sort out a short handle hammer and a better camera position.
Do you and your dad have a favorite machine or tool in the shop?
I just stumbled upon your channel and I really enjoyed this! I appreciate your demonstrations and explanations. Only thing I would change would be to see more of the actual machining, but I understand that running the camera while machining is a pain. thank you for taking the time!
Never knew it used the head to hold the sleeve thats kinda wild
how convenient for them to put that hole between cylinders, I was wondering how you where gonna get past the top surface without cutting it, nice explanation.
Hey! Is that a Monza I see in the background? I had a 77 with a V8
I had a 1977 Monza Spyder it was a OG 305 but the guy I got it from put a 400 in it LOL!! I just ran across your comment and I thought it was funny that you noticed the Monza like I did and owned a 77 with a V8 like I did LOL!
@@79tazman Yeah! I Loved my Monza! My dad had an old 65 chevy pickup truck with a 283 in it. When I was a junior in high school I pulled the engine and rebuilt it and picked up a beat up monza with a v6 and did the swap. I used the 4 speed that was in the car. It was my first car I drove on the road. Later on I had a 79 with a v6 and 4 speed. It was in much better condition than the first one I had. Great little cars.
Man thats cool too see Im a CNC machinist in the aircraft industry.
Nothing like seeing a 5lbs sledge in a machine shop!😛
I don't know much about your business and your tools are none of my business but if I owned that sledge hammer I would cut off about 3 feet of that handle.
How do I get into machining? They never had any sort of classes like this. I desperately want to learn to work a lathe
It's too bad some genius decided we didn't need to teach this in school anymore, we had a VOTECH program in high school (1983 bwhahahahaha old people) Welding, Machining, auto mechanics, carpentry. you may be able to find a community college with courses, I hope you pursue it.
good job DAD......keeping the family business going
P.S. your DAD is awesome!!!! Love how serious he is when he is on camera and his little cameo at around 17:55 lmao 🤣🤣
Your dad in the video... 😑 lol
when you deck the block and lower the sleeve counter bore like that do you have to check piston protrusion? And if it is out of spec how is that corrected?
Shims
How is cutting by hand safer than letting the machine do it? Seems like it’d be the other way around.
I have no experience with machining lol hence the probably dumb question
hey great video, it is ok to cut a foot of the handle of that sledge you were using:)
Love your work man, where u located?
Colorado! Thank you 👌🏻
Finally! Someone useful to follow on TikTok! I am noberet43 over there, just started following you.
1 question, why don't you square the block off the centerline of the crank instead of the bottom of the block?
Thanks for the vid. Enjoy watching!! Happy Holidays!
Catching up on your Videos ! Love your Videos . Thanks for sharing !
Very interesting! A great video!
Do you cut bottom part in one cut?
Thanks
Are these sleeves from hub city machine works? Or did you make your own? Or get somewhere else?
You have an awesome family business going for you. Well done. I wish it was me 😉
Very cool!
It's sad that something that new is in such poor shape..😔
Why did you guys leave the block heater in?
That built in dial indicator kinda blew my mind, I'm not going to lie.
They have something called a coaxial indicator that you can put inside of a spindle with a Chuck and it does the same thing
Hey do you spell your name Nicklaus or Nicholas
How much did that boring machine cost new?
hi is this machine can do what resurfacer machine do?
😳😨😱 Pounding sleeves in while mounted on the machine, will the precision of the machine be compromised?
Putting the rings in a freezer to shrink them, then they fall right in.
No.
bro how can i get the chank shaft bearing size note book
I really admire the forethought that goes into making these videos
You guys always impress me with your professionalism. Also it has to be nice to do your surfacing and counter bores all on the same machine. I would love to have a boring mill/surface mill all in one. Thanks for the interesting video topics ❤
Holy crap that’s a great idea for a driver! I alway had them made specific when I did them.
I love this channel but PLEASE use a tripod, this constant swaying back and forth really gets to me
Is there any concern about throwing the machine or fixture measurements off by installing the repair rings while the block is mounted on the boring machine? I am guessing not, just curious is all.
Great work, love the attention to detail you put in all of your machine work.
Too much camera movement you make me seasick
Nice content but you need to get a stand for your camera. I need a dramamine pill for nausea from the jerky, fast camera movements when you move the camera by hand. Just a friendly suggestion.
John Deere has an additive for the coolant to keep those O rings for the liners from corroding and keeps them like new, it is so important to put it in, it keeps the slots like new. Cummins has the additive right in their coolant filters, I don't know what Cat does?
Fun to watch. Great job too👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
well done young man
Certainly an interesting repair and plenty of room to make mistakes with such a finicky process
Your comments on "Leveling" the block.... The plane of the deck surface originates from the axis of the crankshaft mains. This is cardinal geometry. The deck surface plane should be equidistant to the crankshaft mains axis. It is an assumption to trust that it is, in an as-received block. The centerline of the crank may also not be equidistant to the plane of the oil pan flange. Using the oil pan flange to locate the block, you are making the assumptions that 1) the oil pan flange is machines parallel to the axis of the crank, and 2) the oil pan flange plane is parallel to the deck surface plane. If you use a level on the deck surface of the block when it is set on your machine, then you are making the assumption 3) that the machine table is level, and that is going to establish a plane for your oil pan flange. This also assumes 4) that your parallel riser fixture is also planer in height.
To eliminate all these variables, one way is to have a fixture that locates the block to the machine table using the round bore of the main bearing journals. UA-cam channel West Coast Machinist has a nice fixture like that. Another workaround in the form of a pre-check, would be to measure the crank bearing journal centerline or radius distance to the head deck surface. If both ends of the block have an equidistant measurement, then you can have confidence that you can use the deck to indicate the block "level" using the deck surface. Perhaps you knew all this, and just skimmed through it for the sake of brevity, but if your goal is to make in instructional video, this is an important step in machining to understand. -----Doozer's Shop
Yes... All good points, and yes I sort of "skim" over it, as getting too technical on a subject like that can make it less interesting to the typical viewer who doesn't have any machining experience. Maybe the videos imply that my goal is to make an instructional video, but my goal is more to make an "informational" and "entertaining" video more than a "how-to". Just a quick "here is what and how we do" if that makes sense.
Engine remanufacturing is broadly based on these "assumptions" you have listed. We all know that "assumptions" can be dangerous to make! I do not know the order of operations that this engine block goes through when it is first machined at the John Deere factory, but they have to start somewhere, and the rest of these machined features are likely referenced off of that first "datum" if you will. I have researched this before with minimal luck (surprise, JD doesn't share their secrets), but from my understanding the pan rail is *typically* the first surface machined in the rough casting, along with two locating dowel holes in the pan rail (which glancing at a JD block here in the shop and a SBC block here in the shop, you see these locating holes on each end of the pan rail).
These two locating dowels & the pan rail are typically used as the datums for all further machining operations in a production setting. This is why in a block like this, aligning off of the pan rails is a moderately safe assumption. The assumption is that the block was machined correctly at the factory meaning:
-Planar deck surface is parallel to planar pan rail surface
-Crankshaft Main Bore axis is vertically & longitudinally parallel to pan rail surface (as is the deck surface by transitivity)
-Cylinder bores are perpendicular to deck surface
Moving on to the assumptions regarding the machine...
-It is not an assumption that the machine table is level... It IS level, and is rechecked often. This is part of maintaining equipment... there is no assumption because it is verified often. Same goes for the parallels/risers. We are not "assuming" they are planar in height... they are a precision fixture, and we can and do verify that they are correct often.
Then it comes down to a judgement call. Are we confident that all features of this block were machined correctly from the factory? Are we confident that this block has never been machined by a different shop previously, or that if it has, their machines and fixtures were accurate?
This is where the level comes in. Confidence in our machine and fixture tells us that when an inline block such as this is fixtured, the deck surface should be level in both directions. 90% of the time, they are! The other 10% of the time you have to use your common sense. Usually that begins with rechecking the factors in our control (is the table truly level? Did I accidentally get a speck of dirt below one corner of the block?). When those things have been verified and it is still off, you think further... (Is it possible that the block is wrong from the factory? Or is there evidence that this shop has been remanned before and maybe their equipment was out of wack?)
A pre-check using a deck height gauge is a great call, but there are times when it is warranted and times where it is not. In this application, there is no reason to think there is anything out of alignment from the deck surface to the main bore axis. YES, that is an ASSUMPTION, and assumptions can get you in trouble. But from experience, this is a safe assumption to make.
Further, I will add that we do have a fixture for V style blocks that uses the main bore as the datum as you pointed out The West Coast Machinist/Whiplash Engine & Machine has. Take a look at the video here: www.tiktok.com/@jamsionline/video/6879552298142551302?lang=en&is_copy_url=0&is_from_webapp=v2&sender_device=pc&sender_web_id=6817100834687600134
This fixture uses the main bore as the first datum for alignment, but again the pan rail as the second datum. It also still relies on the "assumption" that the machine table is level & the fixture is the same height on both ends. This fixture will ensure that a V style block has the deck surfaces exactly 90 degrees to each other, deck heights equal distances, decks parallel to the main axis, and bores perpendicular to the deck surface. What this fixture lacks (as I have pointed out in previous videos on my TikTok) is a reference to the cam tunnel as a datum, which would further be a more accurate/precise method of fixturing to "TRUE" the block.
However, this fixture is not rated for a block as large as this John Deere.
The point is, YES, we have to make assumptions in engine remanufacturing. We have to work with the material we have, and sometimes there is not enough material to truly correct each machined feature to the "truly perfect" design intent. But, we do our best.
I hope that clears things up!
-Nicolaus at JAMSI
Just started watching your channel. Super cool stuff man, dig it all. This motor looks like a pain in the ass
Name of the boring machine
What’s the name of the machine
I definitely enjoy the longer videos although the shorts is how I found your channel
Many thanks for the variety of different things that are being worked on. It keeps up the interest.
Very nice work. I look forward to learning more about this trade.
It is a 1/1000 of a inch?
this trade engineering is top of precision arts nice to young guys take this arts
Lots of your customers money at stake if u screwup! Good job!
those jd mtrs are junk
Fair bit of labour involved.Nice work
Excellent Video!!
First time viewing and loved the content. Great job.
After you decked the top of the block about .005 doesn’t that also bring the crank to head distance up the same amount? How is that compensated for? Is that amount alright and will the engine tolerate that? Is this compensated for with offset crank bearings? Great vid.
Sure, it does shorten the block deck height. That is why manufacturers specify how much you are allowed to remove. Sometimes a junk block can be saved by using a thicker head gasket.
I really like this channel thanks for sharing
Nice job!!
When you set the jugs ... the lower O-rings .... do you lube them with a petroleum base or soap .... like a rubber lube they use to mount tires
Yes. Deere sells it, and I'm sure other manufacturers do as well.
What boring mill are you using
Glad I found your channel
Is that a CV616 in the background? We used one for about 20 years !
Yep! I would love to have one of those new fancy CNC hones, but the CV616 get's it done for now!
@@JAMSIONLINE Heck I consider the CV616 a fancy hone. LOL Have a friend still using a CK10!
Good work BTW
Y'all are awesome
Nice work.
Nice work.
Hii
Please call
👍🇺🇸
DRY ICE the repair ring will make it smaller
Lots of talk. No action of the actual work. Lots of talk. If you wanted to see some actual milling, go somewhere else.
Sounds good, don't let the door hit ya ;). If you understood the amount of effort it takes to do a job like this and make a video on top of it, maybe you would have some respect for it. I'm sorry that this video was too wordy for you to handle.
That block must have a wicked stroke yikes.
Dude that shirt is sweet!!! I want one!
That's a complicated job