BMW E90 Engine Mount Replacement DIY
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- Опубліковано 13 лис 2018
- In this video I show you how to change out the motor mounts on your E90 BMW. I opted to drop the subframe to create enough room to get the mounts out. This saves a considerable amount of time vs trying to remove all the parts needed to create enough room to get the mounts out.
This applies to any E90 with a straight 6 engine.
I will also replace the transmission mounts near the end of the video.
I'm replacing these for maintenance but also because I felt some vibration when I had my A/C on and it turned out my passenger side mount was shot.
I purchased the mounts mounts form Rock Auto and here are the part numbers:
ÜRO PARTS 22116760330
ÜRO PARTS 22316771219
Total cost is around $70 USD.
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I have watched so many diys but you're the best in term of completeness and covering every step. Thanks a lot.
Best channel for N54 owners. Love your work mate.. Keep it up
Thank you for this diy. So glad you explain everything very detailed. I will for sure tackle this.
This repair caused my engine and transmission to run better. Today my tech replaced the engine and transmission mounts on my 2009 328i sedan because last week the dealer gave me a video showing the old engine mount rubber tops were substantially collapsed. I napped at home while the tech did the work so things worked out best for all. The engine and transmission mounts are available for around $200 at FCPEuro. The tech charged $900 today. The dealer quote was $1,150. Thanks to DIY for this vid as is shows what is at stake and that I am not set up for this job.
Great DIY! Made motor mount job very easy. Very smooth 328i again. What a difference.
Thank you for taking the time to film this video. I really appreciate it.
THANK YOU THANK
YOU THANK YOU!!!
I did everything step by step watching your video and it was a breeze. It took me about 2½ to 3 hours to complete.
Thanks for the video Vehicular DIY! It was a great help. I did my engine mounts last weekend. My drivers side (RHD) was as shot as yours. Just a tip for the viewers. It is better to remove the fan and unscrew the coolant hose mounted on the front of the sub frame. It is fixed with 3 torx screws. My coolant hose started to leak at a connection, because the lowered sub frame was pulling on it. It came right after I placed the sub frame back, but it could have also broken the connection if it was too brittle. I want to buy threaded rod M12x1.5 and screw it in the middle bolt holes before I lower the sub frame. I hope the alignment will go smoother when I lift it back up.
Very nice straight forward no nonsense diy. Thanks good job 👍👍
Thank you for sharing. I need to get this done after my hpfp.
Thanks man. I love your videos. I have a 328i X-Drive wagon with a manual transmission. While there are some differences, there are lots of similarities, and these videos are amazingly helpful, and the videos are very well done. I will be supporting your associate links to be sure.
Thank you for this video. My passenger side mount is toast as well. Glad to see it can be done in alot less time then most people were saying. Once again thank you sir
Thank you for the quality content and good info!!
Awesome video, as always. Thanks man.
very nice videos , thank you!! very helpful for me
Thank you that was perfect!! Very clear explanation
Great DIY. It really isn’t that bad after watching your vid. There isn’t too much more to remove for oil pan removal either. Love your vids!
Oh yeah basically just the steering rack and you'll be able to sneak the pan out. Dropping the subframe makes doing downpipes or the water pump etc way easier and only takes 30 mins to 1 hour.
These videos are gold!
Dude this guy is a badass!!! I’ve learned so much from him, I have an E60 but so much N54 info I can’t go wrong. I’m about to try my mounts as well, obviously diff specs with diff chassis but I’m sure it can’t be too much different from his diy. Great job Vehicular!!! Keep up the good work buddy, I love showing all of my Bimmer hating friends your 196,000 mile motor that tested near new with O leak from the block. It’s true be vigilant and give some tlc to our bad ass Bimmers and they’ll perform like no other car I’ve ever driven that’s for sure!!! The Ultimate Driving Machine!!!! NO DOUBT..... bro I’m giving you a nickname cuz it’s what I always refer to you as anyway and it’s THE BADASS BIMMER DUDE!!! Lol I appreciate what you do buddy and educating those of us just starting out in the Bimmer community. Right on man keep up the awesome videos please!!
Nice Video. Will do this tomorrow in my z4 E89
Another great DIY. And also congrats on your 10k+ subscribers.
Hey thanks, yeah I was planning to do a 10K sub video and give away etc but got caught up.
Thank you for the video. I save some money for the DIY.
Awesome video. I will replace my oil pan gasket as well while I am at it! Thank you so much for the outstanding step by step. Truly appreciated sir!
Did you get to do your oil on gasket? I’m in the process of doing it but want to know if I need to remove all nuts and bolts for the motor mounts if I’m not replacing them ? Will just removing the top bolt allow me to drop the subframe?
Anyone dropping the sub frame to replace the oil pan gasket, you don't need to remove the top nut on the motor mount. Unscrewing the 2 motor mount bolts from the bottom is all you need to drop the sub frame. Replacing the mounts would be a different story.
great vid thanks !!!
Just did this myself, and it felt like it was too easy lol
One small addition, you don't need the magnet. you can just use your hand and get the nut from under the car. Same goes for when you put it back on there.
(maybe the E92 has more room to do so + I have fairly small hands)
I’m running Turner Poly 60a Motor Mounts & Rogue Engineering Trans Mounts. They compliment my suspension set up nicely. I have the B12 kit, m3 control arms front & rear, m3 subframe bushings & m3 diff bushings.
You made it less complicated ! Now i have confidence to work on it myself rather than paying $600 bucks for the labor.thank you!
I found out that in the 535i,that the mounts are bolted from the top and the top nut can’t be accessed from the hood but from below.also mounts have different part numbers but would fit the .....089 on both sides,the .....090 will not in either side.
$600 ain’t bad where at ?
@@thecaesar7942 here at jax,32211,he owns his shop now after working for years at the bmw dealership
@@thecaesar7942 Right? My guys wanted over $1000
@@shonevans2830 yeah bro same here
Amaizing job..
You could fill the spaces around the rubber part of the mounts with shoe goo. It will add quite a bit of stiffness for $7. One of Our old grassroots racing tricks.
Just did this on an E60 with the N54 and the base bolts (and the center) are all installed from above. This made things more difficult especially for the passenger side mount. The separation of the sub frame and engine creates a gap which is barely adequate to slip a ratchet into to remove the base bolts. The heat shield must be removed ( three bolts) to remove the mount. The driver side requires removal of the air box for bolt access and mount removal requires loosening a bracket holding the transmission cooler lines. Both mounts are removed rearward. Took me about 7 hours.
Thanks, great video!!!!!
Replacing my driver side motor mount on my 08 335i with a solid rubber has eliminated my power steering pulley smacking my subframe. I highly recommend this being a top priority job .
Omg bro thats me right now 😭. Going through belts and pulleys like no bodies business but i got an aluminum pulley now so atleast it won't break
Excellente video ...Thank You !!*****
Thanks for another awesome video. Do you happen to remember the torque specs for the sub-frame bolts?
Great video.. really helped me out with mine!
Great detailed video! Liked Subscribed.. question: 1- what’s the life span for the motor mounts? I got a 2009 e60 n54 engine with 83k. I’m replacing the oil pan gasket but want to know if I should do the motor mounts as well. 2- in order to drop the subframe, do I need to remove all bolts in addition to the top 16mm bolt ( if not replacing the mounts)? Thx
very nice! thank you! i think the passenger one get a lot of pressure and the driver one a lot of pulling due to the engine rotation. how i can check upfront if the mounts have vacuum lines?
Hi there, this is a great video! My question is if I don't have equipment to lift the engine from top, is there another safe way to do it? Thanks!
What are the torque specs for this job? You may have mentioned this in other videos, but I have this job on my to-do-list and it would really help. Thanks.
good job and how do you know if the engine mount is damaged without removing it? the rubber inside is not visible. thanks
Nice video. How many miles did this car have.
Hi can you update about their current condition do this method works ?
Thanks for the knowledge you share with us. I will be doing my moto mounts this week as well. How are these ÚRO mount keeping up? I saw the same ones you have hear. An update will be appreciated. Thanks
Doesn’t it hurt the steering column by lowering the subframe? Does the transmission be supported as well? Thx
Thanks for your video. Very helpful. Infamous oil pan gasket replacement and water pump can be done this way without touching suspensions?
Yes! Thats what i wanna know!! I need to do my oil pan. Hope i can just lower the sub frame.
Now u would be able to do this for the oil pan as well? Or would I have to disconnect all the other like the other people say?
Hello,
when the engine mount is installed do you have to do an Wheel alignment???
Thanks.
Did you remove the top nuts from the engine mounts with the engine supported by the brace or by the subframe?
Do you think there is enough space to do the Oil pan gasket while the subframe is hanging? I'm going to be doing this in a week or so and would like to kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I need to do control arms up front as well, but I figured I would let the old ones take a beating first and it would probably allow for a little more room.
Just a question. Other vids show guys using a jack under the engine and just removing the mounts that way, with a few minor items like the reinforcement "v" bar underneath. Why did you disassemble the whole subframe?
Is it possible to lower the subframe 2 inches with the engine still bolted to its mounts? What about the trans and propshaft? Because on my '08 e90 335d I need to access the lower main oil return pipe from the bi turbo setup and access is super super tight from below....
Those engine mount bolts are they standard steel bolts (reusable) or aluminum? According to realoem for my e93 N53 it seems aluminum are only for engine mount bracket to engine block, but steel for engine mount itself? I also see they come as torx or hex head, but otherwise same. Hex are listed for me on realoem.
Hey, I have a question. Do u know the difference between the left engine mount and the right? Is the right(passenger side) engine mount harder? In Germany the left cost 35 Euro the right 100 euro in aftermarket from corteco.Maybe u said it in the video but my English isn't the best:) Greeze
Aren't you stretching or causing issues on the steering u joint between rack and wheel?
Nice. I did this job doing it the DIY/ forum way . I must admit your way seems a lot faster & easier to be sure. Not surprised the passenger side was your issue. The heat from the turbos is your culprit.
I’d be Leary of any mounts other than 335is or a poly type mount. The N54 can/ does have issues with the PWR steering pulley hitting the subframe on the driver’s side which causes the belt to fray and get sucked into the engine via the Crank Main Seal.
I’m surprised you didn’t redo your trans mounts while you were in there.
Rogue Engineering makes the best ones for the N54. Given that you are tuned, I’d look into a 60a Poly Mount. If you are worried about the heat from the turbo, wrap it in DEI gold tape.
Hey thanks, I did redo the trans mounts near the end of the video. Yeah back when I first got this car I noticed the pulley had a chip in it and the belt was fraying, I replaced it and haven't had any issues but I'm sure under the right conditions it could hit the subframe and take out the new pulley, you running poly mounts on your car?
Planning on tackling this next week and your video is the best I've seen. Just a little apprehensive about pulling down the steering rack since it coukd potentially break the clock spring. How far can the steering rack safely go down to?
It can drop quite a bit, much more than you needed to just get the mounts out.
Did you reuse your motor mount bolts and top nuts?
did you say left and right engine mounts are the same part number? My 2011 335XI requires two different part numbers. The right has a piece of rubber on top and costs $50 more from FCP.
Is this procedure identical for a 335xi?
It might be noted that the 335is engine mounts are a little more stout.
Hoping you do a diy on HPFP in the future 🥺
Yeah so far that's holding up but if it fails I definitely will.
Vehicular DIY thanks! I keep having this shadow code 2BDE & crank longer during cold start. My car sits the entire weekdays
I'm curious how those Uro mounts held up? Everyone condemns this brand on forums especially suspension and rubber parts. I have just had to order Uro crankshaft pulley for my E60 as the OE one is four times more than the price of this Uro and also had to order the same brand for my Jaguar transmission mount as I couldn't find any other brand.
when the motor mount worn out, does it affect cause rough idle?
do these engine mounts have oil in them? i have e90 320i and i see oil leaking from passenger side engine mount and i am not sure where its coming from, i recently changed my engine oil
will this procedure apply for 2011 328i xdrive 3.0?
How have these mounts held up so far?
How are the mounts holding up?
I have bmw 3 n47 engine. My engine mounts vacum type on the car. Can i change with out vacum type please help me
Do you know if it's possible to install S54 motor mounts?
Oil pan gasket replacement AND engine mount replaced....BMW quoted me almost $3100.00!!!
Can you reuse the old bolts on the new mounts?
Yo this is super helpful. Will this work on xi cars too?? Anyone know?
@Vehicular DIY Would this method work for the oil pan gasket as well or is more clearance needed?
Same question here. Do you think there was enough room to change the oil pan gasket? Or would the subframe have to drop further?
Great video, BTW. THX.
Great video as always!
Any idea if this method would work on f30 chassi with n20, n47 etc.?
I am actually working on my N20 F30 right now and it looks like there is a lot of room to get the mounts out without dropping the subframe. I'll be changing them in an upcoming video.
@@VehicularDIY Great! Just order a set of motor and trans mounts, really looking forward to some f30 content. I bought a f30 328i about a week before you announced you bought one. It couldn’t have panned out better….
I know you won't respond but maybe someone else will. I did new engine and transmission mounts 2 days ago and now I've got lots of engine noise at decel and idle... do they need time to break-in or is it likely something is wrong, or there's rubbing somewhere? The engine is sitting 1-2 inches higher now.
I know nothing about these cars are these a reason for the car to make it seem like it’s riding rough ?
I wonder if its any different for a e93 manual? Does anyone know if so chime in.
Has anyone done this while the car is on blocks instead of on jack stands? Wondering if the subframe will go down far enough.
You could have used the factory driver's side mount of the passenger side and then one of the cheap new ones on the driver's side.
Vehicular DIY. Would you recommend doing this to get at the oil pan gasket as a bit of a short cut. Or just drop the subframe entirely?
Chris Lake trying to know too!
Robles Inline 6 granted you would just have to take the few bolts off holdings on that coolant line and the steering rack but you would also have to drain and remove the rack from the car.
@@matt.108 To do the oil pan gasket you could probably get away with leaving it handing and trying to fish the pan around but it's not too much more work to drop the subrame altogether. You would unbolt the steering rack and leave it on the car, no need to drain. Undue the control arms, the sway bar and unscrew the coolant line and it will come right down.
I had to remove my subframe completely to access the oil pan. The pan has to drop straight down from the engine to clear all the internal of the engine.
Did you change the aluminum motor mount bracket bolts that go into the side of the block? They are known to break randomly. I had it happen to me on the passenger side, I barely made it home that day.
I didn't no, haven't heard of that issue. I'll look it up thanks.
happened to me Luckily i was able to remove the broken bolts from the block
Alex B. Yea same here. I used the eraser ✏️ end of a pencil to turn the broken bolts out.
Anyone know the torque specs for all the bolts? It's like everyone keeps that info for themselves
Would droping the subframe a inch or so work for a xdrive 335 ? And supporting the engine with the crossbar for the mounts ?
I was going to ask the same question. I guess no one here knows huh?
Does it work for the n55 engine model ?
A question to you please answer me, i need to do the oil pan gasket change, do you think by lowering the subframe will gain access to this job or I have to drop off the subframe completely? Thank you so much
Np, you're much better off lowering it all the way. It's possible to get the pan out but you'll spend way more time trying to work around it.
Vehicular DIY thank you so much!
Aloha Vehicular DIY, you mentioned the reason you replaced the motor mounts were because of vibration? I have an 09 128i convertible and have had a vibration issue when traveling up a slight elevation at about 40MPH so kind of a load due to traveling up hill sort of. I initially thought the propeller shaft center support bearing rubber were staring to fail so I replaced the entire shaft assembly but still have the vibration. Is this the type of vibration you were experiencing which may be my issue? Thanks in advance for any advice, aloha.
lluielou yes, that’s your issue. Hope you get it fixed
@@TehXPL Thank you and also thanks for the brilliant video!!
I wonder why TIS don't say to lower subframe. Maybe in TIS they raise the engine a bit higher? They talk about raising it by 10mm. The BMW engine holder/riser seems higher. Couldn't you raise your engine higher with that support bar?
Yeah TIS says only raise engine!
Can you rent this engine support bar?
Are the mounts still holding up its 2.5 years later. Thanks!
I was going to ask the same question ⁉️
Rear subframe bushing diy please, do you have a patreon or something to where we can donate?
I don't have a patreon, never really thought about it but if people want to see a particular DIY and the patreon would cover the cost of the part I wouldn't mind doing that. They way things go now I do DIYs when things fail but if I'm not paying for the part I'd be happy to do DIYS on anything people want to see.
hi
where did you buy the trunk lip spoiler ?
Got it on Amazon. I believe I linked it in my LCI conversion video.
Is there more simple ways to do this?
Well, why indeed be dropping the subframe instead of raising the engine. To raise the engine properly one should use an engine support bar as per Bentley service manual. Raising the engine by the oil pan perhaps appeals to people who did not have to pay to have the oil pan gasket fixed. I did and it cost me $900. Once you decide to raise the engine from the support bar, you discover that on N52 the tow hook not only does not screw in all the way, there is a collar on the tow hook that is in the way, but also it is too long and using a support bar from Harbour Freight like in this video does not give you enough clearance. I suppose it is also a choice between stressing some components versus some other ones. I dropped the subframe to replace the engine mounts. Another reason was that I could not understand where the flex points were. The transmission is attached to the engine and then there is the drive shaft. What happens when you raise all that?
If you want to raise the engine with a support bar, a tow hook from an earlier BMW will work. It is shorter than the one that comes with an E90.
I sincerely want to thank VehicularDIY for creating this video. You come across as trustworthy and no nonsense. Your video gave me confidence that the job can be done this way safely. I would have fretted endlessly over possible problems like separating the steering column from the steering rack to mention only one possible issue.
But the lack of torque specs is a bit of a problem for an enthusiast mechanic. So, here is what I used:
1. Subframe to body (M12 bolts): 80 ft-lbs - Bentley page 119-28
2. Engine mount to subframe: 28 ft-lbs - Bentley p. 110-12
3. Engine mount to engine support arm (nut): 41 ft-lbs - Bentley p. 110-12
4. Transmission rear support to body M8: 14 ft-lbs - Bentley p. 210-12
5. Transmission mount to rear support: 14 ft-lbs - Bentley p. 210-12
Haynes gives slightly different numbers but not substantially different. For instance, for the subframe to body is wants 77 ft-lbs.
That still leaves the issue of the v-strut. I had a pretty nasty experience with two of the six bolts holding the v-strut. Four of the six bolts holding the v-strut have captive nuts on the other side. On my car the bolts were quite rusty and the clips holding the captive nuts broke. I had to cut through the bolts to get the v-strut off. I could not find any torque specs for the bolts so I asked ChatGPT for help. It/they then suggested 31 ft-lbs. I used it but I wish I used 25 ft-lbs. I may have trouble getting these off some time in the future.
will this work with e60?
Why lowering the subframe?
Unbolt the mounts, rise the engine by 20mm then remove the old mounts .
When do these usually fail? Thank you
Depends on how the car is driven but I'd say around 100 to 150K.
Are the six subframe bolts all same length?
No they are different lengths.
Does this work for x drive e90 335xi
It would be similar but there would be some differences.
If I drop the subframe should I do the oil pan gasket at the same time?
To get the subframe all the way down would involve more work but it wouldn't be a bad idea to tackle both at once if you need mounts.
@@VehicularDIY Alright. Thank you. Battling the boost solenoid right now. Code 002ABC (Boost Solenoid A) but don't know which one is "Solenoid A". Thanks for your awesome DIYs that you make look pretty much effortless :)
is the engine support bar from harbor freight good? almost everything I buy from their breaks except the hydraulic jack.
Yeah it's such a simple piece and considering how rarely you will use it I'd say it's fine.