Dirty throttle body cleaning with a TWIST
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Dirty throttle body affects idle, reduces the throttle body service life, can generate lots of codes.
In this example a 2008 SAAB 93 is used, but its the same across 90% of the vehicles on the road today.
We toke the chance and changed the gasket (PN 90537718) very important to do if u have a forced induction engine.
Enjoy the video.
One final note: @2:00 i reversed the throttle body opening area for when purge active or inactive 😬 - Авто та транспорт
I'm a little late to this party, but THANK YOU for a great tutorial video. I was able to get this done in a little over an hour, with probably 10 minutes of that fighting to get that bloody hose off of the throttle body. Finally just disconnected the other end and removed it on the bench. I'm amazed the car ran as long as it did before going into limp mode, that thing was FILTHY, looked like the underside of the butterfly was coated in coffee and charcoal. Cleaned up beautifully, and once I got it all back together, it ran sweetly (and much more smoothly) on my little 10 mile test drive. THANK YOU again!
I had a throttle body problem on my car Saab 9-3 2009 1.8t.
It felt like the engine wasn't running right, went sometimes into limp mode on 1st and 2und gear.
The error that I got was P1681.
What I did, to solve this problem, was to opened the black box on the throttle body, it has a 6 clamps and when you open it, you will see a motor on one side and on the other side on the black cover, is the throttle bode sensor (the metals in the cover). I cleaned it with a electrical contact cleaner and the car has been working well since then (it saved me 500 pounds)
ty for ur time take care
Nice video man.
so, what was the 'twist'?
Cyclone Cyd seeing the actual effect on scan data (throttle opening in mm)
Oh i thought the twist was taking your SAAB to the dentist...
I got the code P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range, and will try cleaning i before buying a new throttle body
Cleaning wouldn’t help for this code, but it doesn’t harm to try it.
Note that it doesn’t always point to a faulty throttle body, it could be bad ECU or corrosion at one of the connectors; specially the bug grey connector under the battery.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thats good to know, I will try to check an clean that plug to (H42-2)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY cleaning that connector solved my problem:)
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY That's my code too (on a 2007 9-3). So I have to remove the battery and battery holder to reach the grey connector? (I assume you mean "big grey connector," not "bug grey connector.")
Excellent video real time no unrealistic and simplifying edits .. full process video. Love the gloves btw :) I have a 1.9 tid linear estate 2008. Is the config the same on Diesel??
Thanks, the diesels have a totally different setup/concept
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thanks for advising me of that
I removed the other side of the hose first as it was easier to move the larger diameter which is a pain. I didn't think to use synth grease to hold the gasket. Placing it on with the TB was nuts without it. Was model DeWalt drill is that? Nice vid.
Achi Shukuteki , thanks .. Dewalt DCF880
Amazing video. It's like a ASMR video, but with a Saab. The best!!!
It's on my list of preventive things to do to our Saab we're just getting. The battery trick is to avoid having to reset the throttle body, correct?
I have a 9-3 1.8t model 2005. If i clean the throttle body and put it back do i need to reset it via tech 2 ? Its been a very helpful video indeed.
Disconnect the battery first , then do what ever u want .. and that should be fine
Why do we do the part where you
Put the key in the ignition, remove it, put it back in, turn to on for 10 seconds, then turn off?
Thanks in advance.
After battery disconnection, this procedure will re-sync ur remote key, and initialize the throttle body.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY
Awesome video, thanks again.
Wend you have a copueter like your you could do it that way play with the butterfly and set it up again good video thank you..
My 07 9-5 CEL keeps showing a p1260 and p1251 but I'm going to clean it before spending 300 for a new one
Cody Brannon, 100% u should clean it.. but if doesn’t work just hunt a good used one for 50$ or less maybe
The Flying MechanicDIY i ended up buying a used one and installed it in under an hour and now it runs like a bitches bastard.
I Have a 2006 Saab 9-3 2.0 T . Yesterday when at a stop light I went to pull away and the car started to roll then it died out. and would not start. This morning I went to start the car and it started but when I put it in drive it only went along slowly no matter how much I pressed the gas pedal. there wasnt any power. Do you know of a reason this might happen? Thank you for any help.
This is my next project for my 2007 Saab 9-3 Sportcombi that I bought used off ebay with 43k miles. My idle is fairly smooth when warm and at ~720 rpm (my previous 2007 9-3 sedan that I maintained meticulously but lost in an accident was smoother though), but when I activate the AC on this car, the idle becomes slightly but noticeably rougher. I didn't notice this issue on my previous Saab. I suspect a dirty throttle body. I'm going to use this video to clean it and see if I notice a difference. Any thoughts on the slightly rougher idle with AC on? The drive belt looks fairly new. Thanks for all your awesome videos.
By the way, what do you mean you "took the chance and changed the gasket"? Is there some risk involved that I should be aware of? Seems pretty simple.
TheFreeLifeForm thanks for the support.
But excuse my English, what i meant is i changed the gasket while most people don’t, these gasket become brittle and easy to break when u take them out, so better plan to change it.
For the rough idle, i’ve seen cars that has bad A/C compressor, to just normal aging .. how bad is ur idle, is it bad in cold start and when the car is warm ? And is it US/CA car or somewhere else ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Ah ok I understand about the gasket. And your English is pretty great.
My idle is not bad at all. When the car is turned on cold with AC on (set to automatic) it is at about 1200 and then drops down to about 720 within about a minute. When the car is warm, and AC is turned off, you can barely feel the idle...its just slightly noticeable and I am really sensitive to my cars sounds/feel. When AC in engaged on arm engine, I notice that it gets slightly rough, something I didn't really notice on my previous car.
I am in southern California. But the car was in Hawaii for 11 years before I bought it. There is not really any rust, I would say much less than normal amount for a car that was in Hawaii. Just a little rust on the Axles/brake rotor, and a little on something that is behind the engine near the heat shield (I think its part of the exhaust or catalytic converter, not sure) Some slight oxidation on aluminum, but no rust anywhere else. I will try cleaning the throttle and see if the idle changes at all. Worst case scenario, I will have a cleaner throttle hehe. Thank you!
@@TheFreeLifeForm yea be careful cleaning electronic Throttle bodies, spraying tons of fluid on it can saturate the electronics thru the butterfly shaft and other 'orifices'y you could become hosed, plenty of info on this out there.
Hey man, I cleaned up the throttle body on my car. Now it won’t start. I hear two clicks when I turn the key and then nothing. Any ideas?
Hello. What about adaptation/calibration throttle? I have Saab 9-3 II SS 1.8t 150km and I wants clean throttle but my friends tell me about adaptation.
Could you tell me about this? Thx and brat regards from Poland
Grzegorz Dobrowolski, cześć, if your car has the 2.0 L engine just like the one in the video, then no adaptation is required, make sure u disconnect the battery before u disconnect the throttle body, and when u r done, connect the battery as the last step, insert the ignition key then remove it then re-insert it again and turn it ON this time for 10 seconds, then u can start the car.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thank you very much. Best regards!!!
Is the procedure same with 2.3 9-5 (Aero). I mean the first turn on..
Karol Chludzinski, i will have to check
Great video. About to clean (with new gasket) throttle body. '08 9-3. Question.. what is the sequence for turning on the Tech 2 and having the motor running? Saw and heard your motor was running and then you fired up your Tech 2. Is this correct? To have Tech 2 plugged in, not on yet, start motor, then turn Tech 2 on?
Doesnt matter
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Hm. That is what I am hearing. Well, something happened. Tech2 blinked out when I started the motor... sigh.
@@drh3rd some clone tech2s just do it .. OE ones dont
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Yep. I was one of the (un)lucky ones.
Would cleaning my throttle body result in a smoother idle. Its a bit rough to start and run, I can tell its shakey when driving and idling. As well the engine idles at 900rpm and sometimes drops to ~700rpm
Yes this could help, but sometimes there are different reasons behind a rough idle, but its a good start and free to do.
The Flying MechanicDIY if it wasn’t the solution. What would your next idea be for a fix. I have new spark plugs already
Bradlee Merrick, spark plugs if they were very old.
But this car is common for coils failure as well, and another common failure is valve seats, which would be catastrophic, doesnt hurt if u do a compression check before anything.
If ur car is 2006-2007 2.0T it may require software update to solve the issue.
The Flying MechanicDIY its an 2003 linear, I will keep this all in mind. Thank you
The throttle in my Saab 9-3 is going out. Do you know about how much it will cost to get fixed? Is it ok to take it to a regular automotive shop to get fixed? I wish I could fix it my self.
Slimkat 2018 if u r sure it is the throttle, then u can replace it urself using the video or let any shop do it for u .
Hi! My Saab 9-3 1.8T Vector 2005 convertible has a rough idle and the following codes: P0300, P1523 and P2135. Would cleaning (or replacing) the TB be helpful? Or do you have other suggestions? Thanks in advance!
It sound like u have more than one issue, but to answer ur question, clean the throttle body first, clear the codes and see what returns and if both 1523&2135 returns replace the throttle body.
Before u disconnect the throttle body, disconnect battery.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thanks for the advice, I will keep you updated! :)
If you want to leave it in do you leave all the connectors and just take off the hose?
Yes, as long as the ignition stays off, but i dont recommend flooding the intake with combustable gases that are non-plastic friendly
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Hey man if it blows up just enjoy the show
is it the same with saab 9-3 2008 biopower engine ?
Should be the same
How bad is to have the TBI damaged? Mine started to show problems yesterday. 😞 And I don't have the money to replace it.
Its not bad, but certain TB failures will put the car in the reduced power mode.
What kind of failure u have?
Hey there The Flying Mechanic, great video! my 2006 saab 93 2.0 just gave out on me. i cant even start it anymore because it cant idle, and i cant give it any gas. The code that came up was p2135 which is the throttle body sensor. do you think that all i need to do is change the throttle body?? Thanks again for the video! take care
I think u have two separate issues, as this code wont affect idle, but since u have it lets fix it first. The thing with P2135 is in 90% of the times its not the throttle body itself, the issue is usually in one of three connectors (the throttle body connector, the big grey connector underneath the battery or the big connector next to driver feet “LHD” under the A-pillar) open up these connectors check them for corrosion and clean them with electrical connectors cleaner before u decide to replace the throttle body, in very minor cases it was the ECU which failed. If u have a good electrical background u can test rather than spending money on parts by guessing .. good luck
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY that sounds great, i will try connectors you had mentioned. And as far as it not idleing its almost like its not getting any gas from what it sounds like. Thanks again!
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY do u hv a picture of the grey connector under the battery?
Does it have anything to do with errors p1681 and p2135?
2135 yes 1681 is bad ECU
@TheFlyingMechanicDIY what if you get both codes simultaneously?well have cleaned my throttle body after getting those codes. 3 days now,no more code.
@@serateable im sure the 1681 will have to return .. the. U replace the ECU and see if the 2135 comes back or not
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY UPDATE.. well,all the codes p1681 and p2135 dissapeared as the weather got warmer. 4 weeks after spring,There is no more issue. It seems to start late winter /early spring and end late spring. Same happened last year . It is definately a dirty connector . Which connectors can i check and clean ?? .... Thank you.,
did u have a extra gasket on hand or something? What if I take it off and the gasket is broken. I don't have one on hand can I just used the broken one put it back in place the best I can and order a new one?
If its broken, it wont seal right and that will cause multiple idle/drivability issue, may put the car in limp home mode , and may allow dirt to be sucked into the intake
Do you have to remove throttle body to do this or can you leave it on car and just move the butterfly to clean it? Or will something get damaged or thrown out of wack?
For thorough cleaning i would remove it from the car, if u r planing to remove it make sure u buy a spare gasket for it.
because the old ones get flimsy? Can not reuse the old ones ?
hey, Mister, what is the thing attached to the side of battery cover no 5.10? I dnt have it on my '03 1.8t.
TCM ..
Great vid! I got the code P1681 and the car is slow in the first 2 gears. As soon as I erase the code it works perfectly. Do you think it is the throttle body?
Cant guarantee that without the car in hand, but usually its either the throttle body or the ECU .. in minor occasions its due some corrosion in the big grey connector underneath the battery.
I got P1681 and P2135 at various times over the last couple of years. Sometimes I fix it for a long period, then it comes back. The only thing that fixes it is cleaning the throttle body in my experience. My problem seems that the throttle body is getting dirtier than it should which is work in progress for me.
Thank you! changed the TB, keeping my fingers crossed
JG , yes mine was very dirty too, and a teaspoon of oil inside...
@@bogdansamuel8564 I'll be interested to hear if this fixes the problem for you.
What type of cleaning bottle is that? I want to clean my throttle first before i buy one
Juan Contreras use a carb cleaner or brake cleaner
Mr muscle oven cleaner. Orange bottle works better than what he used if you have a diesel especially because of the amount of crap diesels give out. Mr muscle oven cleaner breaks it all up and dissolves it. Leave it to do its work for 5- 10 minutes then Make sure to pour hot boiling kettle water to rinse off. Repeat 3 times these steps if too much crap is there also WEAR GLOVES AS OVEN CLEANER AND BOILING WATER WILL BURN YOU. Cleaned my egr valve and throttle body this way then dry them off with brake cleaner first and tissue or rag
question how would you reset limp mode on the throttle body
Steve Vandeveer u will need an OBD reader
I do have it the one on it says throtle actuator control range/performance bank 1 Saab forum says reset limp mode by turning cog but unsure if there is a cog next to spring or where it is
Steve Vandeveer what year and model is your car ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY 2003 93 aero
Steve Vandeveer if it is the non convertible, then it doesnt have any adjustment to the throttle body, u will need to get me the full code number Pxxxx to be able to help u
So silent... so zen.
I've had mine mapped n since then it goes into limp mode under acceleration saying " Limited Performance" turn it off n back on and then is OK till it does it again.
Have had egr off n cleaned twice a couple of different fuel additives to try n clean internals. Map sensor off n cleaned but still no solution. Any ideas to what it might be?
Was wondering if it could be the turbo actuator sticking 🤔
Sounds like a bad map.
Does this need to be reset on tech 2 after.
I have a 93 tid on 58 plate but the engine is a completely different layout to this 1
Urs is a diesel, this does not apply to it.. i suggest u buy a code reader and check what codes are throwing the car into the limp mode