I loved your work and learned so much watching it.The little blood stain on one white piece tells it all ... making a stain glass is a long process where fingers can bleed. You should point it out at the end : 15 days of work tells you that crafting is a serious job. Thanks for that piece of work that I shall watch again.
Haha, it's actually the pen I use to mark grinding cuts, it's a red paint pen than I have to swirl or stab into the glass to get the paint flowing from time to time. But in a lot of my footage I've got band-aids on one or two fingers, so your point stands! Thank you very much for watching.
I am in awe of your talent. I have watched many Leadlight videos . Yours is by far the BEST I have ever seen. I am going to watch it again. Thank you !
Wow !! That is a beautiful piece of Art , i love calligraphy, i also am a glass artist, & the thing i like the most, i wonder if anyone else noticed how you splice yr lead to a neat point to meet a curve, now thats awesome it just looks so professional, just beautiful talent 😊
im glad you noticed the very curvy and acute line art is kind of a calling card of mine, some of the pointed cuts in the came are e x t r e m e l y sharp such a pain in the ass to do but so worth it in the end, especially when you get a nice smooth older joint on a really long tapered junction
Wow, it must have taken a very long time to solder all those connections, both front and back. What a huge under taking! It turned out amazingly! I love the iridescent glasses you used.
Thank you for taking the time to share this build with us. I enjoyed watching this project all come together. I have a couple of questions: What cutter are you using? It looks like it might be a Fletcher Gold Tip. Also, what drawing program are you using? Thank you again for sharing this project with us! Play safe from Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada.
Thanks for watching; I'm happy to share. I use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to white spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me.
hey forgive me for the ancient reply, but it's just a gold paint pen I bought at the glass supply. any paint pen will work fine, I happen to have a gold one handy for when I use brass came
Thanks for watching; I'm happy to share. I use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to white spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me.
Re: your glass cutter.... Are you not using oil or just not showing that you are using oil during your cuts? Sending lots of love 💖 from sunny 🌞 Arizona 🌵. Take care of yourself and each other 😷
The way I framed and cut the glass cutting shots omits my cutter oiling procedure. I have a spice bottle with a paper towel crammed into the bottom of it soaked in oil. I just squirt whatever I have on hand in there - WD40, 3 in 1 oil, chainsaw lube, 10W30, olive oil, whatever. I'll dab the cutter into it a couple times and then swipe it across the top of my hand to even the oil out. I think my video of the brass grid window insert shows that but I can't remember. I'll be sure to include in the the upcoming video.
Watching your videos is so inspiring! What type of glass cutter are you using? You make it look so effortless. It seems the glass cutter I’m using….I seem to break a lot of glass before I get a good piece 🤷♀️.
Thanks a lot for the comment. My cutter is a MacInnes number 10, I love it. I bought it from sunshine glass but they've since stopped carrying them. I think MacInnes still makes them but finding a distributor is the challenge. Unless your cutter is really old and in disrepair, your glass cutting struggles are likely on account of technique rather than equipment. But Fletcher makes very nice cutters a lot like my no10 for less than $10 and they sell them everywhere.
Thank you so much for watching. There's no reinforcement in this window, the edge came is rigid brass, and it's only 2' tall, so it's pretty sturdy without any support.
Really nice work! Will you share your glazing recipe? I've always used a thicker consistency but yours looks easier on the fingers and likely more efficient. Thanks!
Thanks for watching; if you're talking about the cement, I'm happy to share. I use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to white spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me. Some folks add japan drier to make it dry faster, or a mix of raw linseed oil and boiled for some reason, some don't use any cement and just do whiting/oil/white spirit. All three of those approaches are perfectly reasonable, they vary in final rigidity, ease of disassembly, and speed of drying. The only thing you shouldn't ever do under any circumstance is use plaster of paris.
I think it took around 200 hours start to finish. I didn't work on it consistently rather took long breaks between processes, but all in all it would be about 6 and a half weeks of standing at the table
The linseed oil in the cement mixture generally darkens the lead and turns it black. The horsehair brush on the drill I use at the last step burnished the darkened lead to make it really deep and shiny.
Care to share the cost/price for this? Was this a labor of love or a commission? How long were each of the steps? Design? Vectoring? Cutting? Leading? Finishing? Thanks for posting this. It’s unbelievably beautiful. I love how the glass looked a certain color on the table but then it took on different hues in different sun light.
Thanks a lot for watching. Going rate for commissions in my region is around $300 per square foot, so a piece this size and complexity would be around $4k or so to have made. I have no idea what my material cost was but I'm sure it's probably near $100 per square. Not a commission, just something I was compelled to make. It's mostly intended to be a study in lettering and using opaque black. I learned a lot, so it was well worth the time and expense. Each step took around 30 or 40 hours each (design / template, cutting, assembly / finishing). So I'd guess I have around 120ish hours in it. I naturally work kind of slow, and filming makes everything take a lot longer.
thanks for watching. The printer is a Canon pro-4000. Heavily overkill for blueprint plotting, but I use to to make prints of my art as well. I think the paper is a 44'' 20lb bond, whatever's cheapest for plotting. For fine art printing I like 60lb matte super white.
What did you use for cement what brand name? And how did you make glasses very shiny what you use for that absolutely awesome im trying to do very small thinks I'm the learner thanks
thank you very much for watching i'm copy pasting my answer from another comment since you have the same question about the cement --- i make my own cement. i use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to mineral spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me. Some folks add japan drier to make it dry faster, or a mix of raw linseed oil and boiled for some reason, some don't use any cement and just do whiting/oil/white spirit. All three of those approaches are perfectly reasonable, they vary in final rigidity, ease of disassembly, and speed of drying. The only thing you shouldn't ever do under any circumstance is use plaster of paris. ---- i get portland cement at the hardware store, I'm sure it's quikcrete brand but I'm not sure. I get whiting from the turf supply, they use it to mark baseball fields, but you can also get it from a stained glass or ceramics supplier. As far as getting the glass really shiny, most of that work is done by the many rounds of polishing with whiting and a soft bristle brush. You can see me start that process in this video at 40:00. dust whiting on, rub and brush it all over with a soft bristle brush, vacuum it up. rinse and repeat. the more times you do it, the shinier the window gets. im not sure i've found an upper limit to how many times is too many times. at the end, i use a stiff horsehair brush mounted in a power drill called a PIZZAZ BRUSH. you don't see me use it in this video but check my first two videos. the brush sells for something like $50, it does a fair job polishing the glass but it makes the lead came really dark and shiny.
@@StainedGlassherzlichen Glückwunsch zu Deiner Arbeit. Die Verwendung von Portlandzement ist mir neu. Ich verwende nur ein Leinölfirnis - Kreide - Gemisch. Die Konsistenz wähle ich in etwa wie Du. Dann bürste ich den Kitt unter die Backen und drücke sie ans Glas. Zum Reinigen verwende ich nach dem Andrücken der Bleibacken einfach feine Holzsägespäne, die nehmen das Öl schneller auf und der Glanz des Glases lässt nicht lange auf sich warten. Herzliche Grüße aus Thüringen Hardy
heh right. i use pretty small came, sometimes the gloves kind of get in the way when I'm assembling hate to think how much lead ive eaten over the years
Holy freaking crap, I can't believe this doesn't have more views. From design to execution this is phenomenal.
need to get on my youtube game better
You are an absolute master. That's amazing.
Thank you for documenting the production of this amazing window. It was a pleasure to watch . 😊
The thing for me is your work will be here long after you some people may think that a morbid statment but i would great pride in that fact.
I loved your work and learned so much watching it.The little blood stain on one white piece tells it all ... making a stain glass is a long process where fingers can bleed. You should point it out at the end : 15 days of work tells you that crafting is a serious job. Thanks for that piece of work that I shall watch again.
Haha, it's actually the pen I use to mark grinding cuts, it's a red paint pen than I have to swirl or stab into the glass to get the paint flowing from time to time.
But in a lot of my footage I've got band-aids on one or two fingers, so your point stands!
Thank you very much for watching.
How beautiful and time consuming. The process is fascinating. Thank you for sharing
Amazing skill, cutting hard to cut glass with breaking plier, WOW !!!!
Amazing!
Crazy amount of labour - fantastic work !
I am in awe of your talent. I have watched many Leadlight videos . Yours is by far the BEST I have ever seen. I am going to watch it again. Thank you !
That's a lovely thing to say, thank you very much!
I found something I didn't know I needed 😂
Wow !! That is a beautiful piece of Art , i love calligraphy, i also am a glass artist, & the thing i like the most, i wonder if anyone else noticed how you splice yr lead to a neat point to meet a curve, now thats awesome it just looks so professional, just beautiful talent 😊
Yes never thought of doing that, makes it so neat.
im glad you noticed
the very curvy and acute line art is kind of a calling card of mine, some of the pointed cuts in the came are e x t r e m e l y sharp
such a pain in the ass to do but so worth it in the end, especially when you get a nice smooth older joint on a really long tapered junction
Wow, it must have taken a very long time to solder all those connections, both front and back. What a huge under taking! It turned out amazingly! I love the iridescent glasses you used.
i INVARIABLY find missed joints after i'm thru cementing and polishing, heh
Beautiful. I admire you. Great work 🌺
Please make more videos this is fantastic
Brilliant. Beautiful job, mate.
This one's gorgeous.
A true master!!
Your glass is STUNNING!!!! Keep up the beautiful work!!! 😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thank you! Cheers!
Incredible skill!
Beautiful! ❤🇺🇸❤
Beautiful piece. Watching this while doing cad and 3d printing so I can airbrush. Love seeing a craftsman at work and alive and well still.
Looks beautiful.
Stunning! 🤩
Outstanding and inspiring!
Very Good Glass Cutting, Inspire Job, Very Very Nice Wrok Ummmmah
Thank you for taking the time to share this build with us. I enjoyed watching this project all come together. I have a couple of questions: What cutter are you using? It looks like it might be a Fletcher Gold Tip. Also, what drawing program are you using? Thank you again for sharing this project with us!
Play safe from Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada.
Beautiful!
Thank you!
Great job and video! Thanks!
Beautiful job!!!
Hi what app are you using?
beautiful. Congratulations!
AMAGING!!!! Do you sell the pattern?
Amazing work!
Gorgeous
So enjoyable to see your work
Wow! Just wow!
Fantastic...
What is the name of the computer program your using?
adobe illustrator
Beaurtiful piece, I loved your process. What are the ingredients and ratios of your cement putty?
Thanks for watching; I'm happy to share. I use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to white spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me.
What pen did you use to mark the black opaque glass?
hey forgive me for the ancient reply, but it's just a gold paint pen I bought at the glass supply. any paint pen will work fine, I happen to have a gold one handy for when I use brass came
Amazing! Thank you for making and sharing this video. Do you mind sharing cement ingredients and measurements?
Thanks for watching; I'm happy to share. I use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to white spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me.
God, I am so glad its not just me!!!!
Re: your glass cutter.... Are you not using oil or just not showing that you are using oil during your cuts? Sending lots of love 💖 from sunny 🌞 Arizona 🌵. Take care of yourself and each other 😷
The way I framed and cut the glass cutting shots omits my cutter oiling procedure. I have a spice bottle with a paper towel crammed into the bottom of it soaked in oil. I just squirt whatever I have on hand in there - WD40, 3 in 1 oil, chainsaw lube, 10W30, olive oil, whatever. I'll dab the cutter into it a couple times and then swipe it across the top of my hand to even the oil out. I think my video of the brass grid window insert shows that but I can't remember. I'll be sure to include in the the upcoming video.
Very inspiring! Thanks for sharing :)
What happens if a finished section is broken or has an issue? How do you go back and fix it? Say, one panel breaks.
Please tell me, what is the recipe that you use to make Glazing Cement ?
Watching your videos is so inspiring! What type of glass cutter are you using? You make it look so effortless. It seems the glass cutter I’m using….I seem to break a lot of glass before I get a good piece 🤷♀️.
Thanks a lot for the comment. My cutter is a MacInnes number 10, I love it. I bought it from sunshine glass but they've since stopped carrying them. I think MacInnes still makes them but finding a distributor is the challenge.
Unless your cutter is really old and in disrepair, your glass cutting struggles are likely on account of technique rather than equipment. But Fletcher makes very nice cutters a lot like my no10 for less than $10 and they sell them everywhere.
Did you put any support wire anywhere on the window? It's amazing awesome job!
Thank you so much for watching. There's no reinforcement in this window, the edge came is rigid brass, and it's only 2' tall, so it's pretty sturdy without any support.
Gorgeous design! What size lead came are you using?
Thank you very much for watching :)
The came is cascade RH-8, 0.156 channel and 0.156 height.
Really nice work! Will you share your glazing recipe? I've always used a thicker consistency but yours looks easier on the fingers and likely more efficient. Thanks!
Thanks for watching; if you're talking about the cement, I'm happy to share. I use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to white spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me.
Some folks add japan drier to make it dry faster, or a mix of raw linseed oil and boiled for some reason, some don't use any cement and just do whiting/oil/white spirit. All three of those approaches are perfectly reasonable, they vary in final rigidity, ease of disassembly, and speed of drying.
The only thing you shouldn't ever do under any circumstance is use plaster of paris.
You did a fantastic job! How many weeks did it take from inception to finished?
I think it took around 200 hours start to finish. I didn't work on it consistently rather took long breaks between processes, but all in all it would be about 6 and a half weeks of standing at the table
Plz Explain Last Finishing Materials & How did silver turn to black?
The linseed oil in the cement mixture generally darkens the lead and turns it black. The horsehair brush on the drill I use at the last step burnished the darkened lead to make it really deep and shiny.
Perfect work ! What glass did you used?
Thanks for watching:) There's a big mix of glass and brand here but mostly if I have a choice I use Kokomo
Care to share the cost/price for this? Was this a labor of love or a commission? How long were each of the steps? Design? Vectoring? Cutting? Leading? Finishing?
Thanks for posting this. It’s unbelievably beautiful. I love how the glass looked a certain color on the table but then it took on different hues in different sun light.
Thanks a lot for watching.
Going rate for commissions in my region is around $300 per square foot, so a piece this size and complexity would be around $4k or so to have made. I have no idea what my material cost was but I'm sure it's probably near $100 per square.
Not a commission, just something I was compelled to make. It's mostly intended to be a study in lettering and using opaque black. I learned a lot, so it was well worth the time and expense.
Each step took around 30 or 40 hours each (design / template, cutting, assembly / finishing). So I'd guess I have around 120ish hours in it. I naturally work kind of slow, and filming makes everything take a lot longer.
What is the name of your studio
sungod leaded lights
Wow
Beautiful work!!! What’s the size of the panel?
finished size around 73 x 20 or close to that. thanks a million for watching
What printer & paper are you using there, it’s a beauty!!!!
thanks for watching. The printer is a Canon pro-4000. Heavily overkill for blueprint plotting, but I use to to make prints of my art as well.
I think the paper is a 44'' 20lb bond, whatever's cheapest for plotting. For fine art printing I like 60lb matte super white.
What did you use for cement what brand name? And how did you make glasses very shiny what you use for that absolutely awesome im trying to do very small thinks I'm the learner thanks
thank you very much for watching
i'm copy pasting my answer from another comment since you have the same question about the cement
---
i make my own cement. i use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to mineral spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me.
Some folks add japan drier to make it dry faster, or a mix of raw linseed oil and boiled for some reason, some don't use any cement and just do whiting/oil/white spirit. All three of those approaches are perfectly reasonable, they vary in final rigidity, ease of disassembly, and speed of drying.
The only thing you shouldn't ever do under any circumstance is use plaster of paris.
----
i get portland cement at the hardware store, I'm sure it's quikcrete brand but I'm not sure. I get whiting from the turf supply, they use it to mark baseball fields, but you can also get it from a stained glass or ceramics supplier.
As far as getting the glass really shiny, most of that work is done by the many rounds of polishing with whiting and a soft bristle brush. You can see me start that process in this video at 40:00. dust whiting on, rub and brush it all over with a soft bristle brush, vacuum it up. rinse and repeat. the more times you do it, the shinier the window gets. im not sure i've found an upper limit to how many times is too many times.
at the end, i use a stiff horsehair brush mounted in a power drill called a PIZZAZ BRUSH. you don't see me use it in this video but check my first two videos. the brush sells for something like $50, it does a fair job polishing the glass but it makes the lead came really dark and shiny.
@@StainedGlassherzlichen Glückwunsch zu Deiner Arbeit. Die Verwendung von Portlandzement ist mir neu. Ich verwende nur ein Leinölfirnis - Kreide - Gemisch. Die Konsistenz wähle ich in etwa wie Du. Dann bürste ich den Kitt unter die Backen und drücke sie ans Glas. Zum Reinigen verwende ich nach dem Andrücken der Bleibacken einfach feine Holzsägespäne, die nehmen das Öl schneller auf und der Glanz des Glases lässt nicht lange auf sich warten.
Herzliche Grüße aus Thüringen
Hardy
I'm pretty sure you love your "job" that you forget the last time you ate or took a break.
Make MoreVideos….Please
How much?
if I were to quote it as a commission it would be about 6000 I'd say
I like how you didn't ear beat me with a "like and subscribe" so I did.
not using gloves is wild.
heh right. i use pretty small came, sometimes the gloves kind of get in the way when I'm assembling
hate to think how much lead ive eaten over the years
Maybe get a check for diabetes. The small wound on your hand doesn't seem to be healing properly...
Haha I appreciate it.
I'm a boxer so that spot on each of my hands is perpetually raw. But good lookin out.
@StainedGlass A boxer, too? Oh my. 😅