Відео

thank you for watching yeah there's tempered glass on both sides, but it isn't sealed or filled with gas, it's just two pieces of, i think 3/16 tempered, laminated to each side of the leadlight generally you don't need insulation on either side. insulating the leadlight behind glass on either side makes it more resistant to the weather, and MUCH easier to clean, so most exterior mounted windows are glazed with tempered glass at least on the exterior side in this case, the frame that mounted the leadlight in the door required a panel that was 3/4'' thick, so doing the sheet of tempered on either side made the panel the ncessary thickness for the frame to get purchase on it. that was the primary reason for doing it but even if it wasn't necessary for that, I'd still glaze both sides on a beveled window like this because cleaning it is a bitch and clear bevels show scratches really badly

thank you brother, praise God one of the elements of construction concrete is indeed portland cement, the cement I am using here. I don't use the gravel or sand or aggregate that's used in construction, of course, but the base element is the same

yeah hell yeah that happens all the times, heh. something comes out of alignment, or breaks, or I look and just decide a joint or a setting isn't as good as I can make it and it needs to be done properly, so I disassemble half a window, fix the problem, and reassemble. it's very common.

heh right. i use pretty small came, sometimes the gloves kind of get in the way when I'm assembling hate to think how much lead ive eaten over the years

if I were to quote it as a commission it would be about 6000 I'd say

I was just an assembly assist on this job so I have no idea. But if I were to quote something similar I think it'd be around 8500 or so

Thank you!

"stained glass" refers to the craft generally, not necessarily the fact that the glass is colored if a person wanted to argue that the glass MUST be colored for the final panel to be called stained glass, I'd make the case that of all the glass colors you can choose, clear is one of them

I would guess around 50 or 60 years old based on the building and its history. the glazing method and came used gives me that vibe as well. could be older though. It was a miracle they has just enough glass to do the repair.

sorry for the late reply, its just a gold paint pen I bought at the stained glass supply

Thanks for watching:) There's a big mix of glass and brand here but mostly if I have a choice I use Kokomo

I think it took around 200 hours start to finish. I didn't work on it consistently rather took long breaks between processes, but all in all it would be about 6 and a half weeks of standing at the table

thank you very much for watching i'm copy pasting my answer from another comment since you have the same question about the cement --- i make my own cement. i use 3:1 whiting (chalk) to portland cement and 3:1 boiled linseed to mineral spirits. The measured amounts vary depending on what consistency I'm going for and how much I'm making, but measuring the dry powders in 1/2 cups and the wet material in 1/4 cups is probably good start for most windows. Once it's mixed, add whiting to thicken it or oil to thin it. I put stove polish in it to darken it when I use lead came, but you can use cement pigment or india ink, or nothing. The portland makes it pretty gray already. I usually go for the consistency of honey, which is pretty loose, but I use really small came and assemble pretty tight, so it works for me. Some folks add japan drier to make it dry faster, or a mix of raw linseed oil and boiled for some reason, some don't use any cement and just do whiting/oil/white spirit. All three of those approaches are perfectly reasonable, they vary in final rigidity, ease of disassembly, and speed of drying. The only thing you shouldn't ever do under any circumstance is use plaster of paris. ---- i get portland cement at the hardware store, I'm sure it's quikcrete brand but I'm not sure. I get whiting from the turf supply, they use it to mark baseball fields, but you can also get it from a stained glass or ceramics supplier. As far as getting the glass really shiny, most of that work is done by the many rounds of polishing with whiting and a soft bristle brush. You can see me start that process in this video at 40:00. dust whiting on, rub and brush it all over with a soft bristle brush, vacuum it up. rinse and repeat. the more times you do it, the shinier the window gets. im not sure i've found an upper limit to how many times is too many times. at the end, i use a stiff horsehair brush mounted in a power drill called a PIZZAZ BRUSH. you don't see me use it in this video but check my first two videos. the brush sells for something like $50, it does a fair job polishing the glass but it makes the lead came really dark and shiny.

​@@StainedGlassherzlichen Glückwunsch zu Deiner Arbeit. Die Verwendung von Portlandzement ist mir neu. Ich verwende nur ein Leinölfirnis - Kreide - Gemisch. Die Konsistenz wähle ich in etwa wie Du. Dann bürste ich den Kitt unter die Backen und drücke sie ans Glas. Zum Reinigen verwende ich nach dem Andrücken der Bleibacken einfach feine Holzsägespäne, die nehmen das Öl schneller auf und der Glanz des Glases lässt nicht lange auf sich warten. Herzliche Grüße aus Thüringen Hardy

That was pretty slick indeed.

hey man, i see you subscribed and left some great comments on a few videos. I just want you to know i appreciate it and i'm really happy you enjoy the videos. cheers and thank you.

@@StainedGlass How did you even get into this line of work?

Haha yep. The glass is discontinued as far as I know (shame, it's absolutely BEAUTIFUL), but the church had three pieces stashed away that was just enough to make the repairs.

need to get on my youtube game better