Nice video. I especially like the "cut cup" trick for placing under the oil filter and the tip about keeping the air filter and housing clean at least every other usage.
One of the best tutorial vids I have watch so detailed and precise . I never did any mechanical work and i was able to oil change filter air filter all things directed thank you much
I was wondering if you knew why my Kawasaki fr651v engine on my Ariens Edge never needs choked no matter how long it sits. I just recently bought this and from everything that I've read when the engine is cold you should choke to start but this doesn't start when I choke it and it's cold but if I don't choke it starts up every time???
Good vid. I always have difficulty removing the rubber fuel line from the fuel filter, any helpful tips? Also would you use air pressure to clear the paper air filter and the foam wrap between replacement? In the old days we were advised not to use compressed air but it is the only way I can see to really clean a paper filter. Another old habit was to fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before screwing it on. Our Kawasaki engine is still strong after 12 years.
Fuel filters can be a pain. Make sure that if you are using a universal fuel filter, like the one in the video, that can fit 1/4" and 5/16" fuel line that you only push your fuel filter on past the first set of barbs. If you push a 1/4" fuel line on to the 5/16" barbs it is almost impossible to get it off without damaging the fuel line. You can LIGHTLY blow off the filter between replacements, but you don't want to actually remove the air filter from the intake hose except when you are replacing it to avoid getting dirt down the intake. The manufacturers really don't recommend blowing out paper filters as it can damage them. The one flaw with the FR engines is that the air filter gets packed with dirt and grass too fast, that's why we came up the canister air filter upgrade kit for the FR and FS engines - powerequipmentman.com/collections/best-sellers/products/air-filter-upgrade-kit Most guys can run all season without needing to clean their air filter after they switched to this upgraded filter.
@@PowerEquipmentMan Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! Will look into that air filter kit. With the cost of a new zero turn being almost as much as our first house, we will need to keep this mower for another 12 years.
This was helpful but the oil drain plug on my Ariens Ikon XD with the FR691V was a nightmare. This was my first 8-hour breakin oil change. The plastic tube they supply you with came off as I turned the petcock and I had about a Quart of oil everywhere including the right hydro transmission. I have to clean that off somehow. Any suggestions for cleaning without hurting engine/transmission?
We use this suspension clean all the time around our shop. It won't damage anything. powerequipmentman.com/collections/service-kits/products/maxima-suspension-clean
im actually doing this right now based on this video and had the same question. I got a Cub Cadet ltz 1050 KW and I jacked up the other side and let it drain over night. Drip. Drip. Drip.
Yes you could just tilt the machine towards the drain side. But there is probably only a 1/10 of a quart that doesn't come out when doing an oil change the normal way. Also if you do drain that much oil out, you will need to add more then 2 quarts to get it back to the full line.
If the screen gets plugged, the fuel pump can't pump fuel. If you think your screen is getting plugged, just remove the bolts so you can pull the pump back a little and clean it.
@@M8NTIS externally. As shown in the video, the screen on the outside of the fuel pump can get plugged with dirt and needs to be cleaned off periodically. When that screen gets plugged, air can not pass through it to allow the diaphragm inside the pump to operate.
@@PowerEquipmentMan thanks. I have an FX850V, and that screen is against engine body. I took it off to see what if any dirt had gotten in, and it was 100% clear. It’s at approximately 150hrs of use.
There is an o-ring on the backside of that drain plug fitting. Unfortunately, to remove the fitting to replace the o-ring you usually have to unbolt the engine and raise it up to spin the fitting to get it out.
I have one of these FR691V engines. How many hours would you recommend for the initial break in? I saw 10 hrs in various places but Kawasaki no longer publish initial oil change intervals in their owners manuals, just stating it needs to be changed every 100 hours.
Break in oil change is at 10 hours. Then every 50 hours or once a year (whichever comes first). I don't care what the service manual says, oil is cheap, a new engine is not.
I probably wouldn't recommend it. It would work if you don't have any other options, but I don't think that would be the best way. I do use a fluid evacuator pump around my shop a lot, but it would take forever to extract 2 quarts. amzn.to/3xlie3L
You will need to replace the complete drain. To remove it and install a new one you will have to unbolt the engine and raise it about an inch on that side. If you want to replace it with a drain hose (drainzit) you can just cut the nipple off the drain with a razor knife or hacksaw blade and spin the fitting out. Here is a link for the hose style - amzn.to/3hZCYHJ
Yes the hydro oil can get pretty dark. You should change your hydro oil every 3 years or 200 hours, whichever comes first. We have a video on how to do that.
Hopefully that's the first and last time you'll need the pliers to remove oil filter. Replace it hand tight, just enough to seal the gasket. Twisting it on like a gorilla( like most manufacturers do)isn't necessary.
Its important to say that in order to check the oil level, do not screw the dipstic. Just dip it in until it stops and pull it out. Otherwise if you screw it down, you're gonna get a false reading. 😂😂
Nice video. I especially like the "cut cup" trick for placing under the oil filter and the tip about keeping the air filter and housing clean at least every other usage.
Thanks for watching!
One of the best tutorial vids I have watch so detailed and precise . I never did any mechanical work and i was able to oil change filter air filter all things directed thank you much
Thank you. Excellent, short, sweet video. Very useful. Very best from Australia in 96^F summertime heat. grass growing like crazy.
Thanks for watching! We are below zero degrees here with wind chills of -20 F. I can't wait for spring!
Great video! Thanks! Going to try my first oil change on anything with this mower.
Thanks for watching!
This was very helpful the most helpful so far thank you!
Thanks for watching
Very helpful! Thank you for making this video !!!
Thanks for watching
I was wondering if you knew why my Kawasaki fr651v engine on my Ariens Edge never needs choked no matter how long it sits. I just recently bought this and from everything that I've read when the engine is cold you should choke to start but this doesn't start when I choke it and it's cold but if I don't choke it starts up every time???
Many thanks, keep up the great work.
Thanks for watching!
Nice. I always apply antiseize on the spark plug threads.
Thanks for watching
Good vid. I always have difficulty removing the rubber fuel line from the fuel filter, any helpful tips? Also would you use air pressure to clear the paper air filter and the foam wrap between replacement? In the old days we were advised not to use compressed air but it is the only way I can see to really clean a paper filter. Another old habit was to fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before screwing it on. Our Kawasaki engine is still strong after 12 years.
Fuel filters can be a pain. Make sure that if you are using a universal fuel filter, like the one in the video, that can fit 1/4" and 5/16" fuel line that you only push your fuel filter on past the first set of barbs. If you push a 1/4" fuel line on to the 5/16" barbs it is almost impossible to get it off without damaging the fuel line.
You can LIGHTLY blow off the filter between replacements, but you don't want to actually remove the air filter from the intake hose except when you are replacing it to avoid getting dirt down the intake. The manufacturers really don't recommend blowing out paper filters as it can damage them. The one flaw with the FR engines is that the air filter gets packed with dirt and grass too fast, that's why we came up the canister air filter upgrade kit for the FR and FS engines - powerequipmentman.com/collections/best-sellers/products/air-filter-upgrade-kit Most guys can run all season without needing to clean their air filter after they switched to this upgraded filter.
@@PowerEquipmentMan Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! Will look into that air filter kit. With the cost of a new zero turn being almost as much as our first house,
we will need to keep this mower for another 12 years.
What is recommended oil for the Kawasaki. What are my choices and where can you get the oil filters .
10w-40 is what I use. amzn.to/3uL0Ino
This was helpful but the oil drain plug on my Ariens Ikon XD with the FR691V was a nightmare. This was my first 8-hour breakin oil change. The plastic tube they supply you with came off as I turned the petcock and I had about a Quart of oil everywhere including the right hydro transmission. I have to clean that off somehow. Any suggestions for cleaning without hurting engine/transmission?
We use this suspension clean all the time around our shop. It won't damage anything. powerequipmentman.com/collections/service-kits/products/maxima-suspension-clean
How do you drain the most oil possible during an oil change on one of these engines?
im actually doing this right now based on this video and had the same question. I got a Cub Cadet ltz 1050 KW and I jacked up the other side and let it drain over night. Drip. Drip. Drip.
Yes you could just tilt the machine towards the drain side. But there is probably only a 1/10 of a quart that doesn't come out when doing an oil change the normal way. Also if you do drain that much oil out, you will need to add more then 2 quarts to get it back to the full line.
On this motor should screw the dipstick down to check the oil ?
No
What happens if the Fuel Pump screen gets covered by dirt? On the FX850V it is mounted with the screen facing inwards against the engine body.
If the screen gets plugged, the fuel pump can't pump fuel. If you think your screen is getting plugged, just remove the bolts so you can pull the pump back a little and clean it.
@@PowerEquipmentMan are you saying internally or externally it’s getting clogged?
@@M8NTIS externally. As shown in the video, the screen on the outside of the fuel pump can get plugged with dirt and needs to be cleaned off periodically. When that screen gets plugged, air can not pass through it to allow the diaphragm inside the pump to operate.
@@PowerEquipmentMan thanks. I have an FX850V, and that screen is against engine body. I took it off to see what if any dirt had gotten in, and it was 100% clear. It’s at approximately 150hrs of use.
I have managed to get a leak where the drain plug screws into the engine. Any suggestion on how to tighten that back? Thanks!
There is an o-ring on the backside of that drain plug fitting. Unfortunately, to remove the fitting to replace the o-ring you usually have to unbolt the engine and raise it up to spin the fitting to get it out.
How do I check the oil ? Do I push it in and downward ?
On my FR691V no, it tells you not to screw it in. Just drop the level in bit but not screw.
@@AbelG8781 I thought so , thank you so much for that information much needed
I just got a mower with this exact engine. It doesn't say when to do my 1st oil change. It just says every 100hrs. Any help would be appreciated.
You need to do your break in oil change at around 5 to 10 hours.
I have one of these FR691V engines. How many hours would you recommend for the initial break in? I saw 10 hrs in various places but Kawasaki no longer publish initial oil change intervals in their owners manuals, just stating it needs to be changed every 100 hours.
Break in oil change is at 10 hours. Then every 50 hours or once a year (whichever comes first). I don't care what the service manual says, oil is cheap, a new engine is not.
@@PowerEquipmentMan Thank you for the info! Thats what I'll do
Is it ok to use a hand transfer pump to drain oil?
I probably wouldn't recommend it. It would work if you don't have any other options, but I don't think that would be the best way. I do use a fluid evacuator pump around my shop a lot, but it would take forever to extract 2 quarts. amzn.to/3xlie3L
@@PowerEquipmentMan lol I actually used it and omg the time I saved 😂I thought it take longer buy it went quickly
What weight oil did you use?
10w-40
Good job making sure we cannot see the plug. 👍👍
If you can't find your drain plug based off the information provided in this video, you probably should not be doing your own oil changes.
@@PowerEquipmentMan I could say the same about your video recording skills. Lol
My plastic drain plug on my FR691V engine is stripped, how can you remove it if it's stripped?
You will need to replace the complete drain. To remove it and install a new one you will have to unbolt the engine and raise it about an inch on that side. If you want to replace it with a drain hose (drainzit) you can just cut the nipple off the drain with a razor knife or hacksaw blade and spin the fitting out. Here is a link for the hose style - amzn.to/3hZCYHJ
@@PowerEquipmentMan Thanks
If you guys have the Kawasaki FR691V engine, do yourselves a favor and replace that junk plastic oil drain plug device with a Drainzit Model 1420-K.
Those drain hoses do work great. Thanks for watching
@@PowerEquipmentMan I got so angry at the plastic devices, I became a Drainzit salesman without a salary 😂
Does your hydrostatic oil ever turn Black like mine does. I do not know why it does it.
Yes the hydro oil can get pretty dark. You should change your hydro oil every 3 years or 200 hours, whichever comes first. We have a video on how to do that.
No view when you loosened drain plug
Hopefully that's the first and last time you'll need the pliers to remove oil filter. Replace it hand tight, just enough to seal the gasket. Twisting it on like a gorilla( like most manufacturers do)isn't necessary.
Its important to say that in order to check the oil level, do not screw the dipstic. Just dip it in until it stops and pull it out. Otherwise if you screw it down, you're gonna get a false reading. 😂😂
Good point. Thanks for watching!