Do Not Use Synthetic Engine Oil
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2020
- • New Mtd Gold Lawn Tra...
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This video is about an oil recommendation for a specific air cooled lawn tractor engine only during its break-in period. This video is not about any other engines or any engine oil brands.
The videos on my channel are for entertainment purposes only. I do not assume any responsibility for anything shown or mentioned on this channel. I recommend you always consult a professional. - Навчання та стиль
This is the MTD lawn tractor I had delivered from Amazon. ua-cam.com/video/cfYo7eo0l9Q/v-deo.html
I used synthetic oil in all the engines I rebored myself . No trouble, it just take a bit longer to run in ! We used oil for diesel engines on newly machined engines until such time that the engine is worn and use oil and then we switch over to oil for petrol engines. This way we had NO engine wear for more than 300 000 km !!!!!
Used synthetic on a 20 year old generator and when it finally died, it was not the motor that died, was the stator. The engine still running like day one. Of course you should use standard oil for the initial break in! Everything in my household including my 84 Yamaha two stroke dirt bike uses Synthetic oil. I learned something on this video: DO NOT BUY ANYTHING WITH KOHLER ENGINE!
Yes, I've had my experience with synthetic oil in the K-66 hydrostatic axle and it wasn't a good experience. Turns out the recommended oil by the manufacture is more suited for northern states, not hot weather states in the deep south. Synthetic oil will only do it's job in extreme heat if it's the proper grade.
I wouldnt trust mobile 1. I used it 1 time and started getting lifter tick, flushed it all out and went back to valvoline,no problrms
@@shadowopsairman1583 may be change Ur oil n filters every 10000.0miles be for U sludge her up there video playing brother
I've put synthetic in everything from cars trucks motorcycles Small engines etc and it's always worked fine for me.
Yes same here!
I also use synthetic as it tolerates heat better than conventional, and lets face it, air cooled engines run on the hot side. I still do my oil/filter changes at the 50 hr interval as in the Kawasaki manual.
I run it in my Miller Trailblazer 302 welder. No problems. It's a fuel injected Kohler.
It was working for me also
Germany ran the military on synthetic oil towards the end of the war.
I had a 1981 corvette. I built the engine myself and only used synthetic motor oil. Over 40,000 miles of extremely hard driving, driving that would crystallize a new set of brake pads in a couple of hours. When I took the motor apart it was as clean as the day I put it together. Bearing clearance unchanged. I only use synthetic oil, that sold me.
The newer High detergent petroleum base was would do the exact same thing they're both good oils they both have their own good qualities I myself use nothing but straight 30 weight in the winter straight 40 to 50 weight in the summer depending on how hot it is you cannot find a synthetic that goes that high and and just like you when I pulled my engine apart with high mileage that's clean as it gets maintenance
Its not the bearings that suffer, flat tappet cams need zinc, new synthetic oils do not have ot and even the conventional oil available today doesn't have enough, you have to get diesel oil like Rotella T to get zinc. without zinc your cam will go flat before 100k miles, and it makes no difference how hard or fast you drive, that changes nothing.
I have used Mobil #1 For YEARS have never had Any of my engines Fail from it, EVER Now of course I change oil every 5,000 miles on Gasoline engines or before depends how hard I BEAT on them.
I used that brand recently and required oil 5w 20w and now I have oil drips ?
@@integr8er66 Castrol has high levels of zinc
As a master engine and compressor technician I will give it to you simple. Do not use synthetic lubricates while breaking in an engine " seating the rings" but after that it is preferred in almost every situation. The reason is simple. synthetic oils are very good at what they do so you tend to see incorrect crosshatching take while using them to cut the rings. this causes a glazed cylinder and poor oil retention after a few hours of the breaking in. Sometimes the glazing is so bad re-ringing is required. Use petroleum oil for break in and synthetic from then on out. Ingersoll Rand master Technician XLE.PHE.Type 30 over 28 years and 22 years master Diesel mechanic for Ingersoll Rand , Wakiesha, Caterpillar, and Caterpillar energy division. department of energy consultant for emergency generator operations and reliability.
I don’t dispute your input, but I have built many engines and started off with either Mobil 1, or Amsoil and never had an issue, ATV’s and Motorcycles In including 237 Maxidyne, 3406 Caterpillar, and 400 Cummins using the synthetic oil in the shop at the time.
Here's one for yall, drive it like u got some sense. Like grand ma slow and smooth 😅 but I agreed about the break in oil. Super important 👏
What that tells me is that synthetic oil is far superior to conventional oils. If the engine won't "break in" with synthetic then it isn't wearing any of the engine parts. An engine "break in' is the wearing of the cylinder walls and rings also called "seating" the rings. I use synthetic oil in everything I own and have for many years. I change my own oil and ship a sample off to Blackstone Labs to have it analyzed for wear metals and contaminants. 130,000 miles on my Town and Country, 75,000 miles on my wife's Honda CR-V, 19,000 miles on my Harley Davidson and every oil analyzation has come back indicating no wearing metals or contamination. My Harley and CR-V came from the factory with synthetic and will see nothing different as long as I own them. One other thing, I rather think Kohler lawn tractor engines are not manufactured to the same specifications as todays automotive and motorcycle engines.
I'm 70 years old, I spent 4 years at GMAD (General Motors Assembly Division), 1978-1982, I spent 15 years as a chev mechanic at an Atlanta Area dealership, also spent 2 years at a phone center processing and ok'ing under 600.00 auto repairs for a Automotive Protection company, I've researched synthetic oil for over 10 years and have used either Mobil 1 or Amsoil 100% synthetic motor oil since 1978. So I've used synthetic motor oil for 44 years without 1 single oil related failure. So I doubt that you'll have much luck changing my mind. I don't have a tractor.
Well I did not try to convince anyone of anything. This is a video strictly about an air cooled engine not an automotive engine . I never said to not ever use synthetic oil !!! Kohler recommended not to use it during break-in only , that's it .
My yr 2000 E55 Amg says Mobil 1 0W-30 European, gotta follow da specs
You want a cookie? Ill give you a minute to put your dentures in🍪🤣
@@thelonewrangler1008if you live long enough, you’ll likely need dentures too.
Thanks so much for your extensive knowledge of synthetic oils. I am a female and I have a Ford f-250 going on the production line March 6, 23 at 67 I’m sure this will be my last order. I asked Scotty if I should change the factory oil and put synthetic in when I get her home?? What do you think?? I greatly would appreciate your opinion, thanks Judy
I've used synthetic oil in all my engines for the last 20+ years with no problems.
Reason manufacturers say dont use synthetic oil is it makes your engine last too-long bad for repeat. Business
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I’ve used 100% synthetic from new to 300k plus. Absolutely ZERO problems.
Mobil Extended Performance is awesome!
Steve, get a hot plate. Find two pans you don't care about. Pour synthetic in one and conventional in the other. Apply heavy heat to both until they evaporate but not catch on fire. The synthetic will almost completely evaporate other than the additives and the conventional will leave behind sludge. In modern engines that sludge builds up over time and restricts engine seals from conditioners in the oil that keep them from cracking and leaking oil.
Need a reference for my rant? My entire family attended a college just northwest of Houston that has one of, if not the best petroleum engineering programs in the world. You have no idea what you are talking about and are going off of what small engine manuals are saying. In every conceivable metric, synthetics have a higher specific heat capacity, have better viscous characteristics, and protect better before the additive package is even considered. Honda, Toyota, and many other mainstream manufacturers are all calling for synthetic from day 1. They want to require it for two purposes. 1) It protects the engine better and reduces the amount of warranty claims. This reduces their liabilities. 2) People that cheap out can be denied warranty claims, reducing their liabilities.
There's a thousand tests on UA-cam regarding the capabilities of synthetic vs conventional, but God bless you for reading a paperback manual. "Here's your sign..." - Bill Engvall
My 1962 221 ford would not agree with you
I think the point of the video is to illustrate that synthetic oils lubricate so well, that parts you WANT to wear into each other, like iron rings into iron cylinder bores, won't. I remember learning this in high school auto shop back in the mid 80s.
Synthetic oil is much better than natural oil in every case. Synthetic oil will break down less and has a much tighter bell-shaped curve. My engines last forever. I only use synthetic oil.
100% Agree!
I use synthetic oil in everything (cars, trucks, tractors, log splitter, etc.) and have for 30 years with NO problems.
Buy a quality lawn tractor with a quality engine, use synthetic and run it forever
That's the plan!
Modern engine piston rings are designed with synthetic oil in mind.
There has been many study’s on this. Synthetic works so well that the manufacturers want you to break in with conventional because it allows wear. Synthetic slows the wear down so much it takes much longer for break in.
I just run breakin oil for cam lifters my toy has Teflon coated bearings as well as some components. After my guy tuned it and camshaft breakin in goes synthetic with zddp
exactly
When I used to build vintage Porsche engines i used to run non detergent for a good 500 miles like motorcycle builds.
When like me you are getting 500k on your engines with synthetic I won’t use mineral oils.
My dad monitored his gas mileage religiously. He changed his own oil as well. One time they didn’t have the regular oil at his viscosity. He bought synthetic oil instead. He found out he got 2 mpg better gas mileage. He had a Silverado v8. Synthetic is a superior blend of oil.
I’m a Koehler generator tech, all we use is synthetic lol
Tech, do you have any idea who makes your koehler oil? Especially your lawn mower oils?
I have used synthetic oil for my Toyota Camry 2009 since day one and it's been with me for 12 wonderful years. I haven't experienced any problem with its engine. It has been running like new. No leakage, no unusual engine noise, and no deviation from its usual maintenance.
"traditional" advice Is to use regular oil for break-in but u may use whichever, this is why that advice is given (metal shavings are not engine friendly)
Literally all I use. All my vehicles are 200k-400k miles and zero issues.
Don't use synthetic oil.
Oh, you can use synthetic oil. What He meant to say is don't use synthetic oil if you have a Kohler engine and not during the first 50 hours during break-in.
LOL I worked as a contractor for Castrol Oil few years ago. The comments of all self-proclaim experts on here is more entertaining than a good movie!!!
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They want you to use conventional oil at first because it allows a tiny bit of wear to break in the engine. The synthetic doesn't provide enough friction to break in the engine. That should tell you which you want to use in the long run.
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Straight to the point answer.💪
My 17 yr old daughter had a 78 buick. Engine locked and stalled her on highway. Called me to pick her up . Got to her location checked oil, nothing on stick, I had one quart of mobil synthetic in truck. I dumped that in and started the vehicle. Without a problem, we drove back to home, i changed oil and filter complete. Drove car for two years and sold it. Car is still is on the road as i know, I'm sold on synthetic oil for all my engines large and small.
The reason for using standard petroleum oils for break in is, the film strength of synthetic oils is 6 times stronger than petroleum based oils and the rings need the friction to "wear in" and seat properly. With the higher film strength the friction is reduced and break in takes much longer. The lower film strength of petroleum based oils allows for more friction and more wear on the ring/piston surfaces which enables a faster break in.
Exactamundo 👍
Some people talk about this, but there seems to be zero hard data on this. Its all assumptions. I run 100% synthetic from little engines to my pulling engines... no ring sealing issues ever.
Every new vehicle I've purchased drove off the dealership lot went home city driving between 2 and 20 miles immediately changed the oil to synthetic and the filter. Never obeyed a break-in period. None of my vehicles ever showed signs of blow by or oil consumption. Even after 100k or more miles. Yeah I would believe more the fact this is a old wives tale to keep people from switching from conventional to synthetic. If it took that much for piston rings to seat every diesel engine ever made would be a complete failure before ever going to Market. Those compression ratios would never be reached 15,18 to 1 if rings didn't seat at assembly. Real talk.
That manual was probably written 20+ years ago. I use synthetic, AMSOIL in everything I have.
Well it's a new lawn tractor but the technology in air cooled engines have not changed as much as water cooled . We can only go by what the experts recommend as their proving the warranty and the specifications . Cheers Steve
@@SteveRobReviews Vanguard engines require synthetic 15W-50. They put synthetic 15W-50 in the sump from the factory
@@ezrawaters6653 Interesting how some engineers build engines requiring different lubricants.
@@SteveRobReviews its not so interesting its simple,more uniform molecules,better protection,but these synthetic oils are not true synthetics,only amsoil is a true synthetic base. Read up on the lawsuit that allows these oils to be graded synthetic,they are dino oil. amsoil is a true synthetic!
Amsoil is all hype for the money unless your a professional race driver.
I've used mobil-1 synthetic since 1974 approximately in all my vehicles including 2 stroke engines. Never ever have i had a problem
After breakin syn.oil will give the best protection.....period!
I have raced both 2 strokes and 4 strokes and have done constant internal checks on the engines. Synthetic oil shows FAR LESS WEAR than mineral based oils.
I put synthetic oil in my new Ferrari and my dome light quit working!
Yep , seen that before , it's the nut behind the wheel. Better check that first:)
I have been using Synthetic Oil for the past 16 years with my Toyota Tacoma.
My 06 Scion xa made it to 326k on original engine on synthetic oil then after an engine swap I drove car until 447k then original transmission went along with 2nd engine...
I've been running Mobil 1 synthetic in every car and motorcycle I've owned since 1991, and my dad has been using it since the late '70s. We're both big believers in how great it is, and the incredibly low amount of wear and 'gunk' in the engine is impressive. When you see an engine with 150,000 + miles on it, and the cams barely have wear marks, and there's no crap in the valve covers, even in the corners, it shows how great it works.
years ago.... my father was an engineer at GM. They set up SEVERAL motors in a huge room and just let them run until they "locked up". He was all smiles when he told me Mobil 1 was the only one that didn't lock up. That motor just kept going and going.
That was the 250 test, if memory serves correctly.
That was years ago 🙄 modern synthetics are formulated more to not damage emission systems and lubricate tight tolerance engines now than protect this type of engine. A synthetic for Diesel engines may be a better choice but why would you not want to run a break in oil for the first few hours 🤔
I change my oil every 8K with Mobil1,costs a bit but protection and advantage is priceless..
If you claimed "do not use synthetic oil", then you have to had better proof than just this video clip. Do some research on the "base" of synthetic oil regarding what it is made of before making this video clip.
ua-cam.com/video/lpllYRA7Lqc/v-deo.html
I put synthetic oil in everything except my coffee
Good idea 👍
The 0W16 blends well with decaf.
Other than rashes, my skin is wonderful. Works great with high fiber diets.
I know the Amsoil rep who brought it to the Northwest in the late 70s, who was a genius at self promotion. He cleaned out an Amsoil additive bottle and put pancake syrup in it in order to get folks attention! That way he would break the ice and introduce them to his products!
Lawn mowers are designed to use detergent free oils, but in real engines, synthetic is the best!
I did know of some lawnmower engines from 40 years ago that suggested non detergent 😅😅but all mower engines today recommend detergent oils including synthetics. Air compressors still mandate non detergent oils . Cheers Jared
I run mobile 1 full synthetic in everything I own. Except my 2015 International Lonestar semi with an ISX Cummins and it gets Rotella T5 semi synthetic. My 2017 Chevy Silverado, 2001 Dodge Dakota, 2011 Toyota Tacoma, 2018 Toyota Corolla IM and my Husqvarna 22hp Briggs 54” cut zero turn. NONE OF THEM have ANY leaks, 0 oil consumption. And I change the vehicles every 5,000 and they all still look gold. Dodge has 213,000 miles, Tacoma has 94,000 miles, Silverado has 60,000 miles, Corolla IM has 42,000 miles, and lawn mower has 110 hours.
ZERO PROBLEMS. And the semi has 559,000.. zero issues there too and 0 consumption.
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I just started going with full synthetic , 3.6 engine , reason switching i read up more on synthetic plus timing chain issues. So decided just go synthetic, i glanced at dipstick the other day , about a quart not quite down and 3,300 on oil and oil was getting dirty, decided just change it
Used Mobil 1 in everything zero problems in the last 15 years
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My brother bought a used Toyota Tercel years ago. After he bought it, with about 60K miles or so, he changed the oil to Mobil 1 synthetic. Years later, after about 275K miles, he called me over to help fix an oil leak. The valve cover gasket needed to be changed. When I pulled the valve cover off, the internals looked like they were Brand New! I've been using Mobil 1 in everything I own since then. It's Never let me down.
Newer cars and trucks come from factory with synthetic. Newer engines use low tension piston rings to increase mileage. Use of regular oil will destory the engine .Synthetic shines at startup and cold weather
for more detail for those that dont know. new engines have cross hatchings roughed into the walls to act like a cutter on the piston rings. this grinds down the high points of the pistons rings so they wear into the cylinder wall shape. this closes any gaps, creates a better seal, increases efficiency and reduces blow by and oil consumption. synthetic is a better lubricant that reduces the cutting process, the hatchings smooth out over time so if the rings arnt cut enough before the sidewalls smooth then you will have a worse off engine. its ok to use otherwise. also adding pressure to the cylinder like mid range acceleration helps break in as the cylinder pressure pushes the rings out harder towards the walls better helping the break in, thats why going too easy and letting a new engine idle for too long is bad.
Hey, thank you for the interesting info. If it helps the engine last longer, I'm all for it. They are lasting much longer than they were 20+ years ago. Sold my '05 LaCrosse, and it was running very well, no problems ( I refuse to use the very overused word "issues". We all should). Now I'm gonna repeat with my new (to me) 2017 LaCrosse Premium, and change the oil every 3000 miles. I prefer Valvoline over Mobil 1.
My engine has 300k and still sounds brand new. SYNTHETIC ALL ITS LIFE & N O L E A K S
Since 1993 I've been using Mobile One oil in all my new cars. My 1998 Ford F+250 with a 4.6L, I bought New with 68 miles on it. Now it's a little rough on the body but 380,000 miles later and the engine still runs and starts like new. Always well maintained and always Mobile One oil. My 2012 GMC 2500 I bought new, now has 153,000 miles also Mobile One. And My 1993 Honda Civic I got new right after college. Now my niece drives it with over 350,000 miles on it before the odometer stopped working also started its life on Mobile one too.
Synthetic oil differs only in base oil
It’s molecularly perfect where conventional is full of contaminants and is sheer unstable due to differing sizes of the molecular structure
I’m a retired Mobil lubricant specialist for 35 years.
Some equipment manufacturers can recommend mineral based oils before using synthetic because mineral oil creates more friction and wear than synthetic oils…so the 1st few hours is for the settling of the moving parts.
Use mineral oils If there were no break-in done by the manufacturer. If there was a break-in done, then you can start with synthetic right a way.
Kholer or any other small engine doesn’t need synthetic oil. Mobil 1 in those engines is an overkill. Synthetic PAO based Mobil 1 is excellent for any cars and Mobil Delvac 1 ESP is the same for heavy trucks and machineries.
I've been using synthetic oil for twenty years in my 1995 ford van. I have 422k miles on the original engine. Never been rebuilt!
Thats a modular v8 right... Not uncommon. I know a guy with a similar year the transmission was a POS according to him, and have personally driven a few mustangs of that era with stout engines. Rest of the car was completely falling apart. So its all relative the whole thing lasting 300k might be better.
Mobile one in Honda Odyssey 480,000 still runs great and changed every 7-8,000 miles
Been using mobile one for at least 25 years, no engine issues from the oil, engine SO clean inside
Engine "issues"? Now we're having engine "issues", as if the word isn't overused enuff. I agree with you, BTW. But Valvoline scores a bit higher than Mobil 1.
I've broken in small engines with synthetic, no problem and compression is perfect. Why would a better synthetic base stock oil hurt the break-in process? It wouldn't, it would allow rings to seat just fine. The only reason they say to use conventional oil in the manual is because conventional oil doesn't protect as well and they want you to buy a new engine in 2.5 years. I've heard people say that synthetic oil caused oil leaks on older vehicles. It's not the oil that causes leaks it's the aggressive detergents and dispersants more than anything. Anyways synthetic oil in the viscosity recommended by the engine manufacturer will work just fine for any new engine. Though it may cost more.
There is so much ignorance when it comes to motor oils. Full synthetic oil is SUPERIOR to conventional oil in every single way except price. Any 4-stroke engine can safely use full synthetic. Alot of modern engines, such as my Mercedes, require full synthetic. BMW's as well. Using conventional oil will void engine warranty immediately even if the car is brand new. But I'm sure it's just a "scam" from the oil companies. Fools. Conventional oil can't handle the pressure and temps of modern high performance engines. Full synthetic can be used in any 4-stroke of any age with any milage at any time. All the myths are just that, myths. No, it won't destroy seals, etc. Yes, you can switch back to conventional after. Conventional should be used for lawnmowers, etc. But whatever, it's your engine. Save $2 on oil. Engines cost alot more than oil. LOL
Just to clarify my comment, I'm talking about 4-stroke engines, not 2-strokes on mowers, etc. Big difference. Full synthetic is safe on all 4-stroke engines.
It is superior in price when you factor in how long it goes by comparison......you also get better gas mileage, better overall longevity and incur way less cost making multiple trips and/or paying someone to do the oil change for you. Time is also worth something. When you factor all these in .......it's a heck of a lot cheaper. Don't go by the up front price you pay. Go by what it does for you.
I have been using Mobil1 5w-20 synthetic for the pass 15 years on the same truck, couldn't been happier and I only change oil, filter and air filter every 12.000 miles...
I’m an old man who has used a lot of mower engines and my Koehler has been the best engine ever. When time comes to changing the oil it still looks gold. Amazing engine 👍🏼
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I was unlucky (stupid) or (uninformed) enough to buy a Husqvarna riding mower with the cheap Kohler Courage engine. It started knocking really loud on starts and stops at 62 hours of use. I replaced it with a new engine and now that one knocks loudly on starts and stops with about 70 hours of use. Maybe it's something stupid causing the knock. dunno But, I'm running the second one until it blows.
The older small block Kholers were good, the newer Kholers aren't anything I will buy. Actually going with the Vanguard 37 hp on Exmarks Lazer Z X series
I have used Mobil 1 since I bought my 2006 Silverado, with 40k Miles, in 2009. I have 511,000 miles and still going here in 2024.
I even tore down the top end in 2018 for a ticking noise and replaced the lifters and push rods (found bent push rods) and the motor was clean inside. I change the oil regularly as I do all the maintenance.
If anyone else has this issue with the 5.3L Gen 3 engine, I recommend replacing with the LS7 lifters and chrome molly push rods.
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Full synthetic on a Suzuki swift. 11 years old, 340000 klms on the clock. Still runs great and doesn't burn oil.
Enough said.
That's great but this video is all about an air cooled Kohler mower engine . Enough said :)
Going on 300000 miles on my old ford f-150. Still runs great. Have always used only synthetic oil.
My car comes from the manufacturer stating to USE synthetic Mobil One Oil. Since 2005, I have had ZERO problems with my car(Nissan 350Z). In fact, I now have 283,000 miles on it with no issues and, no oil leaks, smoking or extra oil consumption.
....... Do your own thing folks !
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I have used Mobil sinc 1998 in a vehicle I own. That vehicle now has 188,000 miles on it and is still running fine.
I have run full synthetic oil on two Briggs twins since first oil change one has over two thousand hours one has nine hundred , oldest one puffs a little smoke on start up but uses no oil between fifty hour oil changes. I think the smoke is from fuel as the motor has a manual choke . I use synthetic for the heat rating what better to use on an air cooled motor.
20 years ago when engine block bores were finished they needed to be worn in or broken in because the tool marks had to be smoothed out by the piston rings for a good seal. The engines that are bored in the last 20 years have this additional finishing operation called plateau honing which artificially breaks the engine in. It smoothes out the top surfaces of the tool marks and prepares the bores for sealing without breaking in.
When I replaced a cylinder head on a 92' Dodge Spirit...I saw the cylinder bores were like brand new looking - still had the honing marks...no ridge wear at top of cylinders...car had 120,000 miles...I was completely amazed!
I’ve been using mobil 1 full synthetic oil for nissan maxima 1995 and no problem. Now i got 488,880 milesage in it.
everything is clear here. synthetic oil has too good lubrication specifications and during the first 50 hours, the engine must rub/grind, therefore, for the first 50 hours, a lubricant with poorer lubrication properties is recommended. After the first 50 hours, you can use synthetic oil and the engine will be better from that. Of course, changing the oil will be twice as expensive :)
I have been in the landscape industry for over 40 years. In that time, we have always used Amsoil in our trucks.
Opti-4 in the four strokes and Opti-2 in the two strokes. Along with that, we put Star Tron in all the small engine fuel.
Never have had an oil related problem in our machines. Also never have had any fuel related problems.
I know everyone is different but that is my experience with small engines and trucks.
Anyone that spends any time working on gas engines knows that you never break in a new or rebuilt motor on synthetic. This is nothing new. Synthetic will not allow the rings to properly seat. That in itself should tell you how good a quality synthetic oil is. I purchased my Cub Cadet 1864 new back in 1993 and after the break in period I have switched to Mobil 1 10w30. After all these years the engine still has good compression and when I do need to go into the motor, mostly to reseal the valve covers there are no deposits and the inside still looks brand new. Dean
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I'm cars that's old thought. They are broken in at the factory before you get them with synthetic oil
Iceman Jr . I spent 30 years at GM building cars and trucks . Drove thousands of new cars and trucks off the assembly line and seen exactly how an engine was built and tested and still today manufacturers all recommended new vehicles be driven with lots of caution during the break-in period of about 500 miles or 800 kilometers. New engines are not broke in at the engine plant , they are tested but not broken in 100% . From the time the engine is fired up till it lands at the dealer most have a total run time of about 1- 2 hours at most .
@@SteveRobReviews so what choice do you have when your new vehicle calls for 0-20w oil?? I have never seen a conventional oil with that viscosity. I have been using Mobil 1 0-20w synthetic in my '15 Accord with no issues.
JP Just follow the manufacturers recommendations and you can't go wrong .
I use synthetic in everything. My son ran out of oil and drove until it wouldn't go any farther. Fixed the leak. Filled it back up with synthetic. Started it and drove 20k more miles
My CLK serviced by Mercedes has only had Shell Ex 5 40 oil for over 200,000 miles with no Engine repairs , the modern oils have improved a lot over time
A modern automobile engine is built with low tension rings that are extremely precise, and as near perfectly round when installed as possible. The top ring is for cylinder sealing, the second ring is no longer considered a compression ring, rather it is used to scape oil downed away from the piston, and is actually tapered; wider at the bottom than the top. The oil control rings and collector get most of that done still. But today’s engine metallurgy is so good that the rings are round, the cylinder is round, and not of these parts wear, or break in, so synthetic oil is fine, right from the start. Lawn mower engines are pretty old tech. The cast rings and low quality cylinders really do need to break in to each other. Just like airplane engines. Old tech. So a basic mineral oil is best to get the break in done. Another thing about the oil you use. Zinc, dialkyl, not diary, is only necessary where points of impact is extremely high is concerned, that’s the only place that’s neededRocker tip tp pushrod or to vale tip, flat tapped lifters to cam. Synthetic oil pretty much does that for you. And running synthetic oil where leaded gas is used is not recommended because the spaces between the molecules of the synthetic oil are too small to scavenge the lead with an oil change. The lead then stays behind and causes all kinds of problems, like centrifuging in the crankshaft lube holes, blocking them off. That’s why some manufacturers pulled their synthetic oil for aircraft use. I am retired from GM Engineering and trading, and past member of the SAE.
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I read they started doing that in 1988 with a lot of cars. Scumbags...
The reason some new engines spec synthetic oil from the start is due to the new “plateau honing” process used to finish the cylinder. In the old days when a cylinder was bored and then honed the honing would leave a cross hatch pattern with microscopic sharp ridges in the cuts that lay in the cross hatch pattern. When you started the engine for the first time these sharp ridges would lay down or flatten to some extent leaving a fairly smooth surface with a small cross hatch channel that holds oil for lubrication. This would be your common break in as the rings wear into the cylinder wall flattening the sharp ridges and seating to the surface that remains after. This is also one reason why it was important to change oil fairly soon after break in period. Now with modern technology the honing process has been modified with what is now referred to as plateau honing. In this process the same cross hatch pattern is cut into the cylinder but a final process with a plateau hone follows laying over the sharp ridges left by the honing process leaving a perfect surface for rings to ride on and receive perfect lubrication, maximum seal, and less friction. This is the new process that allows engines to run with little to know break in as the rings are basically installed into a perfect ring seal environment before the engine has ever even been started. This along with hydraulic rollerized valve train make break nothing like what it once was. Not every manufacturer is utilizing this technology and not every engine uses valve train that allows for this either. Hope this helps and great video!
Good comments! My Honda has both and I'm not sure how long they have been doing this but it helps to minimize early engine failures.
Thanks for the information never would've known about this.
@@jamesmedina2062 The sunnen hone stone catalogue actually recommends a different set of stones for Hondas much finer than most, possibly due to the materials used for the blocks. Hondas of old were made of good stuff even the engine bearings were coded meaning basically the engines were measured individually and assembled with the correct tolerances ie blueprinted. As for the newer Hondas i dont know i suspect they are not what they used to be.
@@grantreid8583 The only true engine related failures that I have seen for Honda small engines is from people just topping up the oil and never changing it.
Two systems typically take the beating.
1. The proverbial 'Easy Start' system that holds the exhaust valve open ever so slightly,so there's almost no compression when pulling the cord. A centrifugal system engages the exhaust valve back in to full operation closure at relatively low RPMS.
The other is valve lash.
I've seen collective wear to have the lash gap be as much as 20 thousandths. Supposed to be around 4 thousandths.
The reason that you don't put synthetic oil in new IC engines is because the oil retains viscosity and lubrication qualities better than natural oils, mostly because of the structure and length of the long carbon chain molecules that make up the oil. Synthetic oil will not allow for the wear that is needed to allow the rings to seat and seal against the cylinder wall. Even 45 years ago, when Mobil brought out their first synthetic oil product, tear down of the test engines they ran it in for publicity showed that the machining marks on the cylinder walls were almost fully intact after 200,000 miles.
Especially now that piston ring tension in the new low pressure engines is lower, and because of fairly loose machining tolerances in all of the engine makers, they rely on break in seating of the rings to provide vapor and oil sealing. Basically, you are performing the final machining of your engine piston rings in the break in period.
Once the car is broken in properly, the use of synthetics would appear to limit further bore and ring wear much better than oils derived from crude oil sources. Plus, the added bonus to be enjoyed is that the synthetic product will retain lubrication properties superior to regular oil because even as it breaks down, the synthetic molecule chains will remain longer and more efficient, making it possible to put 10-12K miles on it before you have to replace it, as opposed to 3-5K miles for regular oil.
You have to change filters regularly, though.
I have a push mower I bought from Sears in 2010, has a B&S platinum engine. I've used nothing but synth in it and it starts first time in the spring with one pull. I also use non-ethanol gas too. It runs super great!! No leaks of any kind and it does not burn any oil that I can notice. The syth oil I use is specifically for lawn mowers. Not for cars.
I use synthetic oil in everything, although all those engines were broke in on standard oils. Never a problem with any of the engines
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Full synthetic is better in almost every aspect except price.
Synthetic versus conventional is like LED versus incandescent. Not even close. Superior in every way.
When we built older hot rod engines with Chromoly rings back in the day, we always broke them in with conventional oil. We usually ran Pennzoil because it is pretty poor oil and really allowed those ring packages to seat. Newer engines come with low drag, low tension rings for better fuel economy (speaking of passenger cars and trucks). They will break in fine with synthetic oils. Synthetic oils do last longer as far as break down, but they get dirty and contaminated just as fast as conventional oils. As a technician and OEM automotive instructor for 32+ years I have learned to run Synthetic oil on high performance or engines with power adders (supercharger or turbo), but still change the oil at a 3 to 4k interval because of normal consumption and the oil becoming laden with acids and becoming contaminated with byproducts of combustion. Synthetic oil is superior oil, but a waste of money if it is not needed because it DOES NOT allow extended service intervals in my professional opinion. The biggest problem newer engines face is carbon due to oil burning in the engine from the PCV system causing buildup on Intake valves and causing piton rings to stick to the ring lands of the piston. These issues cause drivability and oil consumption problems because the rings no longer have sealing tension against the cylinder wall, and carbon on the valves absorbs fuel from the injectors. I solve these issues with professional strength engine de-carbonizing chemicals ran through the intake manifold and fuel injectors. I also run catch cans on my PCV systems to capture the oil that causes these conditions. Just my personal observations over the last three decades.
Do not use synthetic oil will make your engine last longer than a manufacturer wants it to last and that means that you will not have to buy a new one but they want you to buy a new one within 2 years That's why they don't want you to use synthetic oil because it's better
THE WHOLE TRUTH.... from a tribologist.
Oil use can be the most controversial of all subjects. So I spent the time and money over 3 years. ( also owned a mechanic shop) . What I found, was from a molecular point of view all synthetics are vastly different. Also the methodology to keep the engine clean is divided into two groups. Surfactants and Solvents. This was circa 1999, today may be more or less different. That does not matter. The oil I used in EVERYTHING including a 100 year old Hunter ceiling fan is..... ( wait for it) .......
In the 80's I worked for Mobil Oil. That was the best synthetic on the market. I won a trip to Las Vegas. While there I talked to Indy Car owners and Mechanics. I found out that every one uses M1 in their race car.
To not use it, would cost them about 50~80 horse power. Regardless of what the label said on the bottle M1 was poured in. So as you can imagine, I was a stout M1 devotee!
When I found out about Royal Purple, I spent 3 years testing and comparing. The results from engines used in ( almost) every possible machine were scrupulously evaluated.
I came to the conclusion that while M1 was very good RP was much better. There is a simple explanation! M1 uses surfactants, RP uses Solvents. Surfactants are seriously deteriorated when internal water condensation gets into the oil. That is why it is always best to run an engine long enough for the moisture to be evaporated. Also the polymers that actually form the lubricating molecules are different depending on what brand you buy. RP polymers have been PROVEN since WWII. It's a long and fascinating story.
In conclusion, NO lubricant out performs RP. I tested oil pressure after 1000 miles, 2000 miles, 3000, up to 5000 miles. I measure cylinder head temps. I studied how soon conventional oil starts to degrade etc etc. SO yes sir ...RP has no peer in the world of lubrication technology! There is much much more to this. I do have time to write more.
I am NOT affiliated with RP or M1 in any way. I wish I worked for RP. Hey RP, are you looking for a salesperson?
It warms my soul to hear someone talk about Royal Purple. I've been using it in my 07 Mustang for the last ten years or so and I couldn't be happier. I have to buy it because my mechanic thinks I'm crazy for spending the extra money on it, but we'll see....
I use Full sythetic not synthetic blend . If your leaking oil it’s because you have a leak .full synthetic won’t leak if you don’t have a problem in the first place if your already leaking then keep using the same .just flows better .
Another intelligent voice in a wilderness of ignorance. Thank you!
We've put 209,000 miles on my wife's 2005 Chevrolet using full synthetic oil and it still runs great. We've had no problems at all and it still does not burn oil.
The reason you need to break in a new engine on the break in non-full synthetic is because. Synthetic oil has such a superior, film, strength, that the rings can not scratch themselves into fitting the cylinder perfectly. You have to use the oil with the not so good lubricating film strength to allow the piston rings to contact the cylinder walls so that the rings will get polished/worn into the proper shape conforming to the bore…
by the way. All multiweight oils, Whether they are labeled as full, synthetic, semi synthetic, or not labeled as any synthetic, they are actually partly synthetic. To get the multi different weights, they have polymers added..Polymers are synthetic. 10 W 30 motor oil has polymers added to give it that multi temperature rating. It acts like 10 weight oil at the low test temperature set by the API, and it acts like 30 wt at the upper test temperature. 10W-40 motor oil has more polymers than 10W-30 to get that wider range ..To get that multi temperature rating, the oil has polymers added, the wider, the spread ratio on the weight, the more polymers are added to the oil.
I have been using mobile one oil in my cars and trucks since I believe the 1970s was when that first appeared on the market. The advertisement pitch they used was, the once a year or 25,000 mile oil. I liked that so I switched to it. I only change my oil once a year and I do not use fram filters or any other filters that has fram make their filters for them.. I use Purolator filters mostly. And I generally put less than 10,000 miles a year on my vehicles. I have never had an oil related failure in any of my vehicles… One of my vans I bought new in 1977, I had that van for 31 years. And it drove away when I sold it to a scrap yard…
I never add aftermarket additives to oil, and I always use the required weight of oil. I let my oil completely drain for hours, sometimes overnight. You would be amazed at how much oil continues to drip from an engine overnight. I only change my oil after I have had the vehicle running on the highway not in the driveway for at least an hour. The detergent in the oil. keeps the grit, gum, soot, acid, metal particles, sludge, and corrosion, suspended in the oil, so that it can be flushed out when you drain the oil.. I also attach a powerful magnet to my drain plug.
I do not use high mileage labeled oils. Those oils sometimes have additives that are designed to make rubber gaskets and O-rings swell up hopefully to reduce or eliminate oil leaks in high mileage engines…
I always always always fill the oil filter with fresh oil to burp the air out of the filter element so the engine does not starve for oil on a start up after draining waiting for the oil filter to be filled by the oil pump when the car starts..
I have never had anyone, but me change the oil in my vehicles ever. Because if you go to a place to have your oil changed, they are not going to let the oil drain even for five minutes. If you drop your car off to have the oil changed somewhere, they may let your car sit for hours, until the engine is cold, and all of the contaminants suspended in the detergent of the oil will settle in the sludge at the bottom of the engine again, and it will not come out when they pull the car in cold and drain the cold oil. I drain my oil when it is so hot, I will have the car running. When I get home, I will leave it idling, while I get the tools and the oil pan to catch the old oil in place, then I shut the car off and pull the plug while it is too hot to handle…
I leave the hood of the vehicle opened while the oil drains so that I don’t forget that there is no oil in the engine yet. I have known people that have drained the oil and forgot to put the oil in, and they drove away…
so don’t think just because you are buying oil that is not labeled synthetic. That it is not synthetic. If it has a multiweight rating, it is partly synthetic.
If you have a new car or motorcycle. It’s best to use the oil specified by the manufacturer. Especially the oil filters. I have seen Honda reject a warranty fix on a Honda Goldwing motorcycle because the owner was using a Chinese made chrome oil filter… The owners manual of every motorcycle I have seen, I’ve worked in the motorcycle industry for 17 years, every owners manual specifically states to use OEM parts, which includes filters.. that customer that had that damaged engine that Honda refused to repair because of the cheap aftermarket oil, filter, failure, that customer ended up buying a salvaged engine from a salvage yard, and he paid to have that engine installed even though his motorcycle was technically still under warranty..
The most damaging time for any engine, is a cold start up. Because the fuel mixture, weather, fuel injection or carburetor, is Rich. And the cylinder walls are cold. So the incoming fuel condenses on the cylinder walls just like humidity condenses on the outside of a glass of iced tea in the summer. That condensed gasoline. dilutes the engine oil and rinses the lubrication that might be on the cylinders walls away. It is especially true on water cooled engines because those cylinder walls stay cold longer until the engine water around the cylinder jacket warms up…
The government got car manufacturers to agree to say that it is OK to drive your cold car as quickly as 15 or 30 seconds after starting it. I wouldn’t do that. Engine oil takes as long as 45 minutes to get up to operating temperature at times..
engines don’t wear out, they are neglected to death..
I agree. Same here. Yep, and good filters matter. I will add though, that I go UP 1 grade in oil weight (ie. 5w30 to 5w40) on AIR cooled engines (only) in the summer. May not be recommended, but the film strength of the oil is better when it gets really hot. Have had engines run with 1000's of hours without failure. Watching the oil levels and keeping up on maintenance is key. Any time I've paid someone to do my maintenance (such as on leased vehicles), it's ALWAYS bit me in the A$$. (missing crush washer, cross threaded drain plug, adding 1 quart OVER full - OMG...) Learned all my lessons the hard way. Do it myself, do it right.
The Gov't needs to say less about ...well, everything.
How do you attach a strong magnet onto your oil plug?
@@firstjohn3123
for decades, I have been using yamabond sealant on the final few threads where the gasket on my drain plugs is. yamabond comes in a toothpaste, tube container, and it acts like toothpaste. But it is used to seal engine cases where the 2 cases are metal to metal, no gasket.. it acts like liquid vinyl, like melted taffy.. I use brake clean on my drain plugs, then I put a small bead around the base of the drain plug… I have never had to replace a drain plug metal gasket, I’ve never had one leak, I don’t have to overtighten them. And that case sealant sort of acts like a thread lock. It does not harden .. i’m sure that it sometimes gets inside the engine when putting two engine cases together, and apparently it does not plug up oil passages.. or else they would not use it when putting engine cases together. It is gasoline and oil resistant. And I have been using it for decades. As a matter fact. I just replaced a tube I have had since I was a motorcycle mechanic part time back in the early 1980s at a Yamaha shop. That too blasted me up until 2021..
I would not use it on paper gaskets.. what I use on dry paper gaskets, I learned in a bulletin from Honda in the 1970s when I was a full-time motorcycle mechanic at a Honda/Yamaha shop..
Honda sent a bulletin to every dealership and every dealership service department, do you use rust oleum silver aluminum paint on dry gaskets. Such as bass gaskets, and some head gaskets. Honda instructed the mechanics to open a brand new can of rust oleum aluminum paint. Do not stirred or shake the can. Get a screwdriver or some long tool to scrape the thick goo from the bottom of the can… coat the head gasket or base gasket or whatever dry gasket you are using with that thick gooey paste. And put it on the engine wet with that gout. That gasket will never stick, it won’t leak, and when you go to take the engine apart in the future, that gasket will not rip because it won’t be stuck to either surface…
I still have the court can of aluminum paint that I bought back in the early 1970s when I was a Honda mechanic. And I have always quoted all of my dry gaskets with that paste in the bottom of that. Can that has aluminum in it.. it is not affected by temperature, and I have never had a gasket stick. I have owned for Moto Guzzi’s. You have to check the valve adjustment on those about every 3000 miles. It’s an easy job on those machines because you don’t even have to remove the gas tank. I have never had to replace hey gasket after the first set i had to replace.. Every mechanic out there will tell you, the most aggravating part of a lot of jobs is scraping gaskets. Since I have been using that paste from the bottom of the aluminum paint can, I have never had a gasket even slightly stick or leak.
I had a KLR 650 Kawasaki that I was commuting on. There is a replacement balance tensioner that must be done on those after they get a few miles on them. It’s under the Engine side case cover where are the primary chain is for the balance shaft. I bought the upgraded tensioner, and I went to the dealer to get oil and oil filter and things like that, and I asked the parts man to get me a side, case gasket, just in case because I thought it would be stuck and I would be scraping the gasket for about a half an hour after I got the side case off. this was around 2010. So it was 2010 prices. That side case gasket was $58. I asked the parts man, are you serious? He said yeah that’s the price. I told him to hang onto it. I might be back. I was very careful pulling that side case off so I would not damage the original side cover gasket. I can’t imagine how much that gasket is now here in 2023. It was just an average paper gasket.
I was able to reuse that gasket because I carefully separated it from the engine with a razor blade as I was removing the side cover. I quoted that with aluminum paint when I put it back together…
It looks like you're on point pal👌 Another fun fact; put a strong magnet right on the oil filter shell itself, works wonders👍
Big difference between a lawn mower and a car engine.
Air cooled versus water cooled.
I had a brand new MTD mower, and it was junk, would not run. Dad had an MTD lawn tractor, suffered an early death. Wised up and bought a John Deere.
Wrong. What they are saying is reg. oil wears MORE than syn. You want the rings to wear a little at first to get a good fit against the walls of the cylinder. but all in all syn. oil is better. Fifty years ago I read a test that Popular Mechanics did with "Mobil One". They put it and reg oil in two test tubes. Stuck it in liquid nitrogen. Reg. oil froze. Syn. oil stayed the same viscosity. Then over a Bunsen burner. Reg. oil turn to sludge. Syn. stayed same viscosity. The good thing is it will run for 50,000 miles between o/c. PM did it and the test motor still had honing marks on the cylinder walls. Not that that matters in a lawn mower.
I’m here to tell ya 👈🏼‼️‼️‼️‼️ purchased a 2000 DODGE DURANGO in year 2000 I live up in the North East with temperature swings of about 90* summer to around 20-30* I’ve used MOBIL 1 since first oil change and changed every 3500-4500 mls with attention paid to the mileage. Turn to year 2023 and I’m still driving my DURANGO with 339,000 mls ! Still runs perfect! Been through 3-4 sets of brakes , two radiators a water pump and now on the 3rd set of tires ! And only 2 complete tune up’s all completed by myself excluding the tires. Driven to Fl. Twice and up to ski country every winter. The 4.7 engine doesn’t even have a tick ,knock, or even a sputter to this very day ! Mobil 1 10W30
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The added friction from running conventional oil is beneficial during break in so that the outer circumference of the piston rings can wear to the exact profile of the cylinder bore, since they may not be a 100% perfect match out of the box. After that is achieved, switch to synthetic to prevent any further wearing of the rings, which would cause ring end gap to expand and compression to drop.
With new motorbikes: I was told by my dealer that they had stopped using synthetic oil for a new engine simply because the oil was so good that it didn't allow the pistons etc to bed in. After this period I would suggest that synthetic is better for protection. The manual that you are referring to basically says the same thing.
I've been using synthetic oil in all my cars since mid 90s, including my first car which was built in the 60s. I prefer the 5-6k miles change intervals rather than 3k. Since my newst car has 98k miles already, and my oldest had 385k, I don't think it's a problem.
My Chevy Cobalt engine lasted to 345,000 miles before some idiot tboned me. It would have easily reached 400,000 miles. Used Mobile 1 5wx30 full synthetic after the initial 30,000 miles.
Delivery guy in Manhattan on a CBR 1000 purchased new immediately dropped the factory oil for synthetic.
Ran it like this and clocked 130,000 miles(how that’s possible in Manhattan I’ll never know-madness)then pulled the engine apart to do a major look-see.
The engine never even broke-in.
However, you do want your engine to break in. It gets rid of needless friction. Then swap to synthetic.
We purchased a 2003 Ford 5.4L F-150 SuperCrew 4x4 with only 5,400 miles on it. It came with Mobil One Full Synthetic in it. I always replaced it with full synthetic 5W20 as RECOMMENDED in the owners manual, specifically Mobil One brand. At roughly 70,000 miles when changing oil and filter, I failed to notice the oil filter seal remained stuck to the engine block. When the new filter was installed, it naturally failed to seal, but not noticing it, I drove it 35 miles home that night from my son's house. The problem was discovered the next day when checking the dip-stick, I noticed it was bone dry. Yep, no oil in the engine. I removed the filter, discovered the root-cause, fixed the problem, and promptly put in an additional 6 quart of Mobil One Full Synthetic oil, and cranked it up and drove it.
Several years later, after numerous additional oil and filter changes (yes, done properly without repeat incident!!) when we sold that truck with 300,000 miles on it, the motor was FACTORY SEALED. The engine had never been opened since that truck left the factory. The only work ever done in the engine bay was to replace the alternator once and the battery twice; but the engine remained FACTORY SEALED at 300,000 miles. The valve covers had NEVER been off that engine. I have never heard of an engine going 300,000 miles and remaining factory sealed. I understand that it is still being driven since having sold it.
So, when you declare no one should use Mobil One or any other brand of full synthetic oil, I ask why and what's the difference between your experience and mine? But I am sold on full synthetic motor oil and will never switch back, at least not until someone testifies they've run an engine on regular oil for 70,000 miles, drained the oil out it, ran it 35 miles with no oil, then put regular motor oil back in it, and it last and additional 230,000 miles while remaining FACTORY SEALED. When you do (or anyone does) that, then I'll listen.
In the meantime, I run premium grade full synthetic. And my preference, is Mobil One Full Synthetic.
Brett at no time did I say not to ever use synthetic engine oil for all engines at any time . I did relay the manual recommendations to not use it for that specific engines break-in procedure. The title says " do not use synthetic engine oil " but I was quite clear as to the context so it's don't read a book by its cover or a video title as the title is a guide to what the videos about so one must watch and listen to the exact massaging . Cheers 👍
The only bad oil is no oil.
If the engineers who designed the engine say to use synthetic oil, I'm going to use synthetic oil.
Yes absolutely , that's what I do as well. Cheers 👍
There is so much fine print about oil and oil change intervals. People are often mislead by auto manufacturers claims about 10,000 mile oil changes.........But, if you read the manual, you will see that these extended changes only apply to a very limited number of usage situations, 95 percent of drivers don't fall into this category. When shops/techs try to explain this to owners, the owners just think that the shop is trying to drain their pockets, this type of advertising should be illegal.
wut type ? ? ? AMSOIL has bin a 25,000 oil since they came out in 1972, being the VERY 1st synthetic oil 2 b approved by the API... i ran my lexux for 3 yrs, 2 mos & 2 days, going 26,761 miles, no problems... still going strong @ 77k + now...
The reason for this is, molecules that make up the oils are arranged differently. Conventional oil molecules are arranged into a sort of clump where as the synthetic oil molecules are arranged into a linear chain. This is where many myths come from such as “synthetic oils cause leaks”. The oil doesn’t CAUSE a leak, rather synthetic oil is able to pass through more easily due to the molecular arrangement. If you had a length of chain and held it by one end you could easily drop it down a small hole. If you were to take the same bit of chain and bunch it up into a ball, it would no longer fit into the same hole. It’s exactly the same principle just scaled up a billion times. All that being said, one oil type is not better or worse than the other. It just comes down to the engine and condition of the engine as to what is better to use.
Mechanics have known for decades that you don't use synthetic oil in a new or rebuilt engine until it's broken in.
I have a 2003 Chevrolet Silverado Z-71 truck, and it has had a Mobile One full synthetic oil in it since the day it left the car lot. No problem from the oil.
Engine oil is now very sophisticated chemistry to match the high tech machining tolerances on today's engines. Engine oil and the other fluids are now "parts" specified by the manufacturer like any other part in the vehicle. You wouldn't put diesel fuel in a gas engine car and vice versa. You wouldn't put olive oil in your crankcase, nor transmission oil(fluid) or differential oil. It's the wrong part for that "application". Most new car engines today are "broken in" from the factory. Synthetic oil actually flows better for these tighter tolerance machines. Synthetic oil is more durable under the higher heat conditions in today's engines because the oil molecules in synthetic oils are more uniform vs. refined crude engine oil.
Crude oil is a mixture of longer chain molecules and shorter chain molecules so over time and miles the shorter chain molecules burn off leaving an oil with different properties than when it was installed. In effect, the non-synthetic crude oil "wears out" and must be changed more frequently.
Synthetic oils tend to remain more consistent and maintain their properties over longer mileage oil change intervals. That's one reason why the manufacturers recommend longer oil change intervals. Tighter tolerances in cylinder bores, piston rings, etc produce less blowby so the oil doesn't get as dirty via carbon build up in the oil system.
Turbocharged gasoline or diesel engines especially with direct fuel injection actually require synthetic oil with "low ash" content to be used or the warranty will be voided. Gotta use the correct "part number" with the correct "specification". Other oils including ordinary "full synthetic" over time can damage the catalytic converters and can "coke up" the turbocharger bearings when the engine is shut off without letting the engine idle a while to cool down the turbocharger housing and oil within it. With low ash content synthetic oil, this apparently does not happen.
When synthetic oils were first arriving on the market, it was advised not to use them in older engines. This wasn't because they would "create" leaks. It was because synthetic oils are usually thinner viscosity and would seep through gaps in older gaskets and seals on those older engines built with less precise tolerances. The older oils being more viscous would not find a way out through micro passages in those old cork and paper gaskets. Most gasket materials today are synthetic rubbers, etc and aren't even called gaskets. They're called seals. The synthetic oil does not escape unless the synthetic seal material shrinks, hardens or cracks necessitating seal replacement.
Older engines should continue using refined crude oils, but definitely not newer technology engines. Read tye manual as to the SAE rating advised by the manufacturer. It's not hocus pocus. It's modern chemistry which y'all should've paid attention to in high school.
I have 428,000 miles on a chevy engine only using mobile 1 synthetic
If you want your engine to last twice as long, use full synthetic...religiously!
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I talked to a man who ran a lawn mower business and said he only uses synthetic oil in all of his lawn tractors and the engines last much longer than before. Most new lawn mowers used for commercial ops require synthetic. This guy puts over 8 hours a day on his multiple mowers.
I agree 100% . This particular engine manufacturer recommends non synthetic during break-in procedure only. Cheers 👍
My 2002 Volkswagen GTI (1.8 Turbo) just kicked over 319,000 miles on mobile1 synthetic 0W-40. Original bearings, valve train, everything.
I've been using mobile one in all my rigs for over twenty years and have no problems ever! I have four Harley's and same thing no problems with them either.
BREAK IT IN LIKE YOU ARE GOING TO RUN IT!! I drag raced street bikes for close to 30 years. I have bought motorcycles off the showroom floor then took them to the dragstrip the same week. I don’t believe in babying your engine during the break-in. I have had about 15 motorcycles and all were fastest stock bikes around my area. If your cylinders are bored and honed with torque plates and finished with a super fine stone the engine will break in fast and it doesn’t matter what oil you use.
We put synthetic oil in all our early 2000 vehicles and our Generac generator. No issues.