If the reason is given for zeroing at 50 yds and setting speed dial at 20 yds, then most people’s questions would be answered. I have a Ravin R26 with included scope. The 50 yd line on this scope is located in center of scope lens, as defined by crosshairs. The center of a symmetrical, spherical lens allows a light ray to pass straight through without deflecting it. The center is only spot on lens that does this and by design will not be affected by magnification (speed dial) changes. Therefore, first task is to use elevation and windage to zero the 50 yd line dead on. All the action in the video before zeroing the 50 yd line is just so you won’t lose the arrow first. After zeroing at 50 yds, sight the 20 yd line in using only the magnification (speed dial). This adjusts the size of the image “behind” the yardage marker lines so that the point that an arrow shot from 20 yds aligns perfectly with the 20 yd sight line. The scope now has two dead-on sighted in points: 50 yds and 20 yds. The rest of marker lines will be very close due to the scope manufacturer spacing the lines according to trajectory math and the fact that adjusting the image size maintained the proportional spacing of lines. For those interested in more details: The trajectory of an arrow shot at close range could conceivably have trajectory crossover. I.E. The 20 yd line/pin would be at lower point on scope than 30 yd pin. This would be confusing since the scope line labels might be 30, 20, 40, 50,..... etc in that order. Fortunately the scope is mounted about 3.25 “ above the arrow, which is not too high for the arrow to be falling (as opposed to rising) relative to line of sight at 20 yds. I haven’t checked it, but I suspect the 10 yard pin, if there were one, would fall on top on the 20 yd pin. Due to arrow probably “rising” at 10 yds and “falling” at 20 yds. Just a bit of trivia, but it might be of interest if one is trying to adapt this procedure to other manufacturer’s variable scopes. Seems like some of these other scopes have the 20 yd pin in center of scope? I like the 50 yd zero because a mild misjudgement in range between 10 and 50 yards will still hit the vital lung area of a deer. I would still use a rangefinder if at all possible. One last comment regarding shooting out of tree stand and up/down hills. The “horizontal” distance to target will come closer to matching your scope yardage distances than, for example, the rangefinder reading on a deer located downhill 0n a 45 degree slope. If the deer ranges 50 yards at 45 degrees, the pin distance not (counting drag losses) would be cos(45)x50= .707x 50yds= 35yds. Aiming with 50 yd pin would wound it or shoot over its back. I imagine this is too much trivia for most seasoned hunters.
You should go in to more detail. When setting fps ring at 20 yards. On witch way to adjust. If your hitting high or low. And also how many clicks when making adjustments
I have a question, am a little confused why he did not calibrate the scope and bow speed in his initial sighting. Would it throw it off when he dial the scope speed to match the bow speed?... hmmm
@@TexasFreeBirds the center line of your scope is at the 50 mark. Remove your caps and zero to this dot at 50. Once that is done this zero will not move, however as you adjust speed dial faster or slower it will move the surrounding lines of the other yardages closer or farther apart. The reason to zero at 20 after you have 50 perfect is so you can adjust the elevation at 20 using only the speed dial NOT the turrets. Once you have it dialed in all the other lines/dots will be right on also. Every video on these types of scopes stink!
I've got a question for you guys why is that crossbows so loud when I put my cheek up to get a good cheek weld looking through the scope cuz I have shot your crossbow two or three times and it always makes my ear ring I don't like that I have shot other crossbows and they don't do that to me
It's kind of confusing that in your whole video you never once say what distance line you're focusing on in the reticle. I know that the reticle has elevation lines for many distances and you don't mention if you are or or not using them. You also don't explain how you made the elevation and windage adjustments on the scope when you did. Since it's an instructional video, you might want to be a little more explicit about all the little steps in the process! In fact, looking at the reticle on your video, it's kind of wrong to say you ZERO AT 50. Because the reticle demands that you zero at 20 and then use the holdovers marked on the reticle to go up to 50 and as far as 100. So please explain how you "Zero at 50"....
ravin needs to fire you immediately due to the fact that you don't have a clue as to what a instructional video is considering your speaking to Ravins fan base that supports them financially
If the reason is given for zeroing at 50 yds and setting speed dial at 20 yds, then most people’s questions would be answered. I have a Ravin R26 with included scope. The 50 yd line on this scope is located in center of scope lens, as defined by crosshairs. The center of a symmetrical, spherical lens allows a light ray to pass straight through without deflecting it. The center is only spot on lens that does this and by design will not be affected by magnification (speed dial) changes. Therefore, first task is to use elevation and windage to zero the 50 yd line dead on. All the action in the video before zeroing the 50 yd line is just so you won’t lose the arrow first. After zeroing at 50 yds, sight the 20 yd line in using only the magnification (speed dial). This adjusts the size of the image “behind” the yardage marker lines so that the point that an arrow shot from 20 yds aligns perfectly with the 20 yd sight line. The scope now has two dead-on sighted in points: 50 yds and 20 yds. The rest of marker lines will be very close due to the scope manufacturer spacing the lines according to trajectory math and the fact that adjusting the image size maintained the proportional spacing of lines.
For those interested in more details: The trajectory of an arrow shot at close range could conceivably have trajectory crossover. I.E. The 20 yd line/pin would be at lower point on scope than 30 yd pin. This would be confusing since the scope line labels might be 30, 20, 40, 50,..... etc in that order. Fortunately the scope is mounted about 3.25 “ above the arrow, which is not too high for the arrow to be falling (as opposed to rising) relative to line of sight at 20 yds. I haven’t checked it, but I suspect the 10 yard pin, if there were one, would fall on top on the 20 yd pin. Due to arrow probably “rising” at 10 yds and “falling” at 20 yds. Just a bit of trivia, but it might be of interest if one is trying to adapt this procedure to other manufacturer’s variable scopes. Seems like some of these other scopes have the 20 yd pin in center of scope? I like the 50 yd zero because a mild misjudgement in range between 10 and 50 yards will still hit the vital lung area of a deer. I would still use a rangefinder if at all possible. One last comment regarding shooting out of tree stand and up/down hills. The “horizontal” distance to target will come closer to matching your scope yardage distances than, for example, the rangefinder reading on a deer located downhill 0n a 45 degree slope. If the deer ranges 50 yards at 45 degrees, the pin distance not (counting drag losses) would be cos(45)x50= .707x 50yds= 35yds. Aiming with 50 yd pin would wound it or shoot over its back. I imagine this is too much trivia for most seasoned hunters.
You should go in to more detail. When setting fps ring at 20 yards. On witch way to adjust. If your hitting high or low. And also how many clicks when making adjustments
I have a question, am a little confused why he did not calibrate the scope and bow speed in his initial sighting. Would it throw it off when he dial the scope speed to match the bow speed?... hmmm
yes - I had same question
That's the only reason I watched this.
@@TexasFreeBirds the center line of your scope is at the 50 mark. Remove your caps and zero to this dot at 50. Once that is done this zero will not move, however as you adjust speed dial faster or slower it will move the surrounding lines of the other yardages closer or farther apart. The reason to zero at 20 after you have 50 perfect is so you can adjust the elevation at 20 using only the speed dial NOT the turrets. Once you have it dialed in all the other lines/dots will be right on also. Every video on these types of scopes stink!
I've got a question for you guys why is that crossbows so loud when I put my cheek up to get a good cheek weld looking through the scope cuz I have shot your crossbow two or three times and it always makes my ear ring I don't like that I have shot other crossbows and they don't do that to me
I have a question does ravin scope work with other crossbow. If we use ravin scope with like tenpoint crossbow? And other?
It's kind of confusing that in your whole video you never once say what distance line you're focusing on in the reticle. I know that the reticle has elevation lines for many distances and you don't mention if you are or or not using them. You also don't explain how you made the elevation and windage adjustments on the scope when you did. Since it's an instructional video, you might want to be a little more explicit about all the little steps in the process!
In fact, looking at the reticle on your video, it's kind of wrong to say you ZERO AT 50. Because the reticle demands that you zero at 20 and then use the holdovers marked on the reticle to go up to 50 and as far as 100. So please explain how you "Zero at 50"....
ravin needs to fire you immediately due to the fact that you don't have a clue as to what a instructional video is considering your speaking to Ravins fan base that supports them financially