Interesting and really informative! I've only ever shot super 8, but I'm really curious about other formats, especially more affordable ones. I also just watched Analog Resurgence's latest video about about 16mm magazine film with a hand-wound camera.
Thanks for the feedback! Really glad you found it informative. I just watched the same video from AR haha, I had no idea 16mm used to come in cartridges.
This video really helped a lot. I went the extra step and bought a Bolex H8 converted to DS8 to take 100' spools, and the price for film is 3 times more cheaper than 16mm. Hope to do testings soon, and keep up with your videos!
Glad you enjoyed it! I'd love to convert an H8 but it looks quite technical. How difficult did you find it to do? I'd love to see your test footage when you get it.
I love how film is gaining in popularity these days, but along with that increase in the interest in all things film, the prices of everything have increased as well. It looks like nowadays if you double these figures (triple for a Quarz DS8-3 camera), you’ll be closer to the cost today. I have a Bolex H8 Rex that has been modified for DS8, but the cheapest I’ve found film stock is $420 USD for a 400’ bulk roll of DS8 film stock.. which is simply 16mm film perforated for super 8 use. Thanks for this video!
i managed to absolutely nail this film format when it comes to price. i buy 30m (100ft) ds8 spools for 33 euro. Then i spool them down to 30ft reels. Then i develop the film myself, however im not using any kits. I figured out the chemicals, and bought them for almost nothing (roughly 20 euro, including the developer), and they will last me for a long time! the developing price per 1 roll is about 2 euro :) I use an old coloreta developing tank that I bought for 35 euro. Then I just splice the film to make it S8, and its ready for projection :D Total price per roll: 13 euro :) Also I got this exact camera for 3 euro, however It needs some servcie to work properly. Currently I like to shoot on Admira 8 Cameras, they are only double8, but i dont see any drastic quality decrease, they are very reliable, and they have great features.
Awesome stuff, thanks for sharing! Finding your own chemicals instead of buying a kit is such a good idea although I feel that could be a bit technical even for me haha. Do you shoot fomapan r100 or something different? I'd love to know more about your process.
@@Lo-fiCine I shoot only foma r100, since its the only film that's even remotely affordable. The chemical process isn't really that complex, but it might be hard and or expensive to get the chemicals, depends on where you live :)
I’m trying to track down what the black and white wheel is on this camera. The one that says BKA/ OTKA. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also. I’m assuming the wheel to the right of the fps is the shutter angle? Thanks so much for this video!!
Hi Justin, so glad you liked the video 🙂. The black and white wheel you're talking about engages and disengages the claw for the film pull-through mechanism. When the claw is disengaged, no film will run through the camera. This way you can release any tension in the mechanism without having to waste the film that might currently be in there. For your reference: BKA is engaged and OTKA is disengaged. As for the dial next to FPS, I believe that's an exposure setting for the selenium light meter as this camera doesn't have a variable shutter speed (it's locked at around 180 degrees). It uses an old russian exposure standard which is why the numbers look weird. I think it's GOST so you should be able to find a chart online that converts that to ISO. Just make sure you match the speed of your film with the frame rate you're shooting in. Hope this helps!
Scanning I think is usually the same price regardless of if it's negative or positive/reversal. I think sometimes labs may charge more for reversal developing though as this can be a more complicated process 🙂
Great video! I just got this camera, but it misses one part, which is called "прижимной столик" in Russian, but I don't know how it's called in English. It's a black triangular piece that should fixate a film I suppose. Do you know if I can still use this camera without this piece (maybe at a cost of having unstable image)?
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you enjoyed the video 🙂. Sounds like you're referring to the pressure plate. Whilst you could run film through without it, I wouldn't recommend it. Stability is correctable in post but without the pressure plate your focus can dip in and out since there's nothing holding the film plane in place. Very distracting and not fun to work with. I'd suggest maybe trying to find a broken unit for cheap on eBay usually sold for spares or repairs. Would love to see your footage when you do get it to work though 🙂
Glad to hear I'm not the only one! (Although I'm yet to attempt my own scanning/telecine setups). I'm also curious about giving colour film a go if I can get some temperature control equipment. Would love to know if you have any experience with this.
Hi! Absolutely lovely and very helpful video! I have one question: how hard it is to split a 30m roll into smaller reels? If im a beginner, should i start off with a 10m rolls or could i go directly the bulk buying route and buy the 30 meter rolls?
Assuming you're UK based, cheapest place I know is Gauge film. On8mil also develop ds8 and usually have quicker turnaround but are more expensive. Hope that answers your question 🙂
I agree, they can be unreliable but kind of like an old car, if you know it's quirks it can be really fun to use. I had a couple times where the film wasn't feeding properly and I realised it was because the original spools the camera came with have a habit of losing grip on the film and so the film ended up feeding loose and eventually seizing up. After a bit of use though you do start to learn how the camera should sound and feel when correctly feeding film which can also help 🙂
Hi! Yes it is possible to shoot colour film as long as you know where to get it. I have a roll of Vision3 200T that I bought from a company called On8mil. It came out great. The only thing to note is that it only comes in 100ft rolls so you'll need to break it down into 25ft spools in a dark bag/dark room.
No problem! First off you're going to need a 25ft spool to load it onto. You'll also want a dark bag or a pitch black room as you'll need to do it in the dark. Make sure you roll it onto the spool with the emulsion facing down (you should be able to feel this but if you're not sure, cut off a small strip and take it out in the light so you know what the right side feels like). Stick the leader into the small slit in the spool and start winding it on there. Make sure you wind it in the right direction. With the spool correctly orientated, you should be winding it clockwise. Once you've filled the entire spool, cut the end with a pair of scissors and you're done. Hope this helps
Interesting and really informative! I've only ever shot super 8, but I'm really curious about other formats, especially more affordable ones. I also just watched Analog Resurgence's latest video about about 16mm magazine film with a hand-wound camera.
Thanks for the feedback! Really glad you found it informative. I just watched the same video from AR haha, I had no idea 16mm used to come in cartridges.
This video really helped a lot. I went the extra step and bought a Bolex H8 converted to DS8 to take 100' spools, and the price for film is 3 times more cheaper than 16mm. Hope to do testings soon, and keep up with your videos!
Glad you enjoyed it! I'd love to convert an H8 but it looks quite technical. How difficult did you find it to do? I'd love to see your test footage when you get it.
Sprężynę można nakręcić nie odrywając dłoni od dźwigni. Będzie szybciej.
You should do a video on the features and shooting with the camera.
You can make it even cheaper making own chemicals for processing Fomapan R. They aren't complex.
That's really interesting, I had no idea! Do you have a link to any guides/resources on this process? Thanks for sharing 🙂
So THATS why 30ft Lomo tanks exist...
I love how film is gaining in popularity these days, but along with that increase in the interest in all things film, the prices of everything have increased as well. It looks like nowadays if you double these figures (triple for a Quarz DS8-3 camera), you’ll be closer to the cost today. I have a Bolex H8 Rex that has been modified for DS8, but the cheapest I’ve found film stock is $420 USD for a 400’ bulk roll of DS8 film stock.. which is simply 16mm film perforated for super 8 use. Thanks for this video!
i managed to absolutely nail this film format when it comes to price. i buy 30m (100ft) ds8 spools for 33 euro. Then i spool them down to 30ft reels. Then i develop the film myself, however im not using any kits. I figured out the chemicals, and bought them for almost nothing (roughly 20 euro, including the developer), and they will last me for a long time! the developing price per 1 roll is about 2 euro :) I use an old coloreta developing tank that I bought for 35 euro. Then I just splice the film to make it S8, and its ready for projection :D
Total price per roll: 13 euro :)
Also I got this exact camera for 3 euro, however It needs some servcie to work properly. Currently I like to shoot on Admira 8 Cameras, they are only double8, but i dont see any drastic quality decrease, they are very reliable, and they have great features.
Awesome stuff, thanks for sharing! Finding your own chemicals instead of buying a kit is such a good idea although I feel that could be a bit technical even for me haha.
Do you shoot fomapan r100 or something different? I'd love to know more about your process.
@@Lo-fiCine I shoot only foma r100, since its the only film that's even remotely affordable.
The chemical process isn't really that complex, but it might be hard and or expensive to get the chemicals, depends on where you live :)
I’m trying to track down what the black and white wheel is on this camera. The one that says BKA/ OTKA. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also. I’m assuming the wheel to the right of the fps is the shutter angle? Thanks so much for this video!!
Hi Justin, so glad you liked the video 🙂.
The black and white wheel you're talking about engages and disengages the claw for the film pull-through mechanism. When the claw is disengaged, no film will run through the camera. This way you can release any tension in the mechanism without having to waste the film that might currently be in there. For your reference: BKA is engaged and OTKA is disengaged.
As for the dial next to FPS, I believe that's an exposure setting for the selenium light meter as this camera doesn't have a variable shutter speed (it's locked at around 180 degrees).
It uses an old russian exposure standard which is why the numbers look weird. I think it's GOST so you should be able to find a chart online that converts that to ISO. Just make sure you match the speed of your film with the frame rate you're shooting in.
Hope this helps!
@@Lo-fiCine thanks so much!! So helpful. Excited to go down the film rabbit hole this year!
For scanning I guess it's better to develop it as negative also cheaper
Scanning I think is usually the same price regardless of if it's negative or positive/reversal. I think sometimes labs may charge more for reversal developing though as this can be a more complicated process 🙂
@@Lo-fiCine you need way less chemical to debvelop it yourself as neg, scanning result shoud be better bc of higher dr of negative, on same film stock
Veeeery helpful. I already has Nizo and Canon 8mm cameras but I didn’t shoot anything on them yet.
Nizo and Canon made some great stuff especially if you don't mind the extra cost of normal super8. Hope you get to shoot with them soon!
Great video! I just got this camera, but it misses one part, which is called "прижимной столик" in Russian, but I don't know how it's called in English. It's a black triangular piece that should fixate a film I suppose. Do you know if I can still use this camera without this piece (maybe at a cost of having unstable image)?
Thanks for the feedback! Glad you enjoyed the video 🙂.
Sounds like you're referring to the pressure plate. Whilst you could run film through without it, I wouldn't recommend it. Stability is correctable in post but without the pressure plate your focus can dip in and out since there's nothing holding the film plane in place. Very distracting and not fun to work with.
I'd suggest maybe trying to find a broken unit for cheap on eBay usually sold for spares or repairs. Would love to see your footage when you do get it to work though 🙂
"Прижимной ролик" is pinch roller, and it should not be triangular ;)
This is exactly what I do. Quarz DS8, bulk load film, home develop (home mix chemicals), off the wall scan. Fantastic and not that hard at all...
Glad to hear I'm not the only one! (Although I'm yet to attempt my own scanning/telecine setups). I'm also curious about giving colour film a go if I can get some temperature control equipment. Would love to know if you have any experience with this.
Great video mate!! Making me want to get back out and shoot on film. Been way too long now 😂
Ah thanks mate! Yes dooo it, your 16mm landscapes were bloody amazing 😁
1:30
Which online store is that you're showing?
I think that's Analogue Wonderland 🙂
Hi! Absolutely lovely and very helpful video! I have one question: how hard it is to split a 30m roll into smaller reels? If im a beginner, should i start off with a 10m rolls or could i go directly the bulk buying route and buy the 30 meter rolls?
I took quite a lot of footage with this camera, really easy to service and calibrate speeds.
Completely agree, glad you're getting some use out of one too 🙂
Where do you send the film for developing?
Assuming you're UK based, cheapest place I know is Gauge film. On8mil also develop ds8 and usually have quicker turnaround but are more expensive. Hope that answers your question 🙂
@@Lo-fiCine Thanks. :)
Brilliant intro, thanks very much
Glad it was helpful, thanks 🙂
Really loved this. Great video, dude!
Appreciate the feedback, glad you liked it!
Holey moley me! Thank you so much! I'll gladly take any excuse I can to shoot on soviet gear.
No problem! Always nice to know others are getting some use out of these videos 😁
they are lovely, but a bit unreliable , at least mine is, needs service
I agree, they can be unreliable but kind of like an old car, if you know it's quirks it can be really fun to use.
I had a couple times where the film wasn't feeding properly and I realised it was because the original spools the camera came with have a habit of losing grip on the film and so the film ended up feeding loose and eventually seizing up.
After a bit of use though you do start to learn how the camera should sound and feel when correctly feeding film which can also help 🙂
is it possible to shoot on it in color? would it be much more expensive??
Hi! Yes it is possible to shoot colour film as long as you know where to get it. I have a roll of Vision3 200T that I bought from a company called On8mil. It came out great.
The only thing to note is that it only comes in 100ft rolls so you'll need to break it down into 25ft spools in a dark bag/dark room.
thanks so much, this is awesome!
is this double 8 format available in color or only b&w?
It’s not super 8 the perfs are different and the frame size is smaller.. it’s actually regular 8 mm … a much older format..
No it's not. It's double super 8. Regular 8mm is a different format. This is explained in the video.
Thank you for this video! I just ordered a 100ft film but have no idea how to crop it into 25 ft😢 could you please tell me how to do that? Thanks!
No problem! First off you're going to need a 25ft spool to load it onto. You'll also want a dark bag or a pitch black room as you'll need to do it in the dark.
Make sure you roll it onto the spool with the emulsion facing down (you should be able to feel this but if you're not sure, cut off a small strip and take it out in the light so you know what the right side feels like).
Stick the leader into the small slit in the spool and start winding it on there. Make sure you wind it in the right direction. With the spool correctly orientated, you should be winding it clockwise.
Once you've filled the entire spool, cut the end with a pair of scissors and you're done.
Hope this helps