Great video, very helpful. I would though, really love to know how to turn an outside corner properly with that type of low rise flashing. Are there any videos or any resources you could point me to? I've been searching all day and can only find stuff about cutting and bending regular drip edge around outside corners.
Why do manufacturers recommend the low rise flashing with a bump? Asking because I have an ~20 yr rolled roof with this kind of flashing and the roof is fine (no leaks), but the deck along the eves are all rotted because water has pooled up behind that little bump. It would seem flashing without the bump would be better to allow water to just run off it into the gutter and not cause pooling where years later the tar might not be bonded so well which then causes the deck to get damp and rot out. If it's just because of tar run out, wouldn't careful installation fix that with the 1/4" set back you recommended? I'm generally frustrated that the only problem is rotted deck and rafters because of the drip edge failing.
I guess I forgot to mention that. Its so it adheres to the strip of mid ply we installed under the flashing. Though we dont torch that down, when we are torching the top it will get hot and adhere the bottom side as well.
Thanks Andre, I have a question. How much overlap of cap sheet should i have when using a traditional drip edge (low rise flashing is not availble in my area) or shuld the cap sheet be flush with the edge of drip edge. Thanks so much appreicate your time.
Hmm, that is a interesting question. I think if your not worried about aesthetics go 1/2 over, it’ll look ugly though. I think going flush will definitely be ok as well and will look nicer. Just be careful to prevent bleed out on the face of the drip edge
I need to replace rusted drip edge on modified bitumen roof in San Francisco. Current drip edge is just nailed on top of cap sheet. I plan to remove current drip edge. After that, can I just peel back the existing cap sheet with a torch and then slide new drip edge underneath, nail and then torch the cap sheet back on top? I'm looking for a temp solution for a few more years before replacing roof. Thanks.
You probably won’t be able to torch the old cap. The temporary method would be to just install a new drip edge over it. Before you install it put a thin bed of mastic, then once drip edge is installed 3 coarse it with mastic
I’m doing my garage, it’s only 500 square feet. Can I use a 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 inch drip edge? My garages roof extends two feet and the only thing the drip edge can nail to is a 2x8 fascia
That flashing metal is for the hot mop or gravel. For torch down you use always BONDERIZED with no low rise at all regular 2x4 BONDERIZED DRIP METAL FLASHING
No, wrong on both accounts. Though I think bonderized will probably be best for adhesion, pre painted flashing looks nicer and if done properly will last just as long. And Low Rise is used for torch. These are not my opinion but manufacturer specs.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist In my experience as a roofer I have had more problems with the low rise than simply installing the regular 2x4 flashing and in the end I have had better results and better customer satisfaction and of course mine. I think that everyone finds their way of working more efficiently and better applied. it is my opinion
And touching on the subject of color flashing, it depends on the client. In my experience, I give them the option that they can paint it in the color of their preference and some, not all, are more satisfied. There are customers who don't care especially when you have rain gutters color doesn't matter.
Thanks for watching! What component of a torch down roof should we make a tutorial for next?
How much for 600 sqft roof
Honestly, one would think they have metal that doesn't need to be pre-sanded.
Taking the adhesive off a separate piece is a super pro tip!!! Thanks!!!
You bet!
Thank you for the excellant videos. Very informative👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you like them!
Great video, very helpful. I would though, really love to know how to turn an outside corner properly with that type of low rise flashing. Are there any videos or any resources you could point me to? I've been searching all day and can only find stuff about cutting and bending regular drip edge around outside corners.
Same as regular drip edge, just need to seal that joint
Great video! Smashed the Sub and 👍 for sure! I love how detailed you are, and that you put 300% into the quality of your work! Thank you so much!
Thanks for the sub!
Why do manufacturers recommend the low rise flashing with a bump? Asking because I have an ~20 yr rolled roof with this kind of flashing and the roof is fine (no leaks), but the deck along the eves are all rotted because water has pooled up behind that little bump. It would seem flashing without the bump would be better to allow water to just run off it into the gutter and not cause pooling where years later the tar might not be bonded so well which then causes the deck to get damp and rot out. If it's just because of tar run out, wouldn't careful installation fix that with the 1/4" set back you recommended? I'm generally frustrated that the only problem is rotted deck and rafters because of the drip edge failing.
Thanks for the videos! So, why did you prime the back of the drip edge? I don't think you explained it.
I guess I forgot to mention that.
Its so it adheres to the strip of mid ply we installed under the flashing. Though we dont torch that down, when we are torching the top it will get hot and adhere the bottom side as well.
Thanks Andre, I have a question. How much overlap of cap sheet should i have when using a traditional drip edge (low rise flashing is not availble in my area) or shuld the cap sheet be flush with the edge of drip edge. Thanks so much appreicate your time.
Hmm, that is a interesting question. I think if your not worried about aesthetics go 1/2 over, it’ll look ugly though.
I think going flush will definitely be ok as well and will look nicer. Just be careful to prevent bleed out on the face of the drip edge
THANKS appreciate the fast response ! Youre a amazing guy!!@@RoofRepairSpecialist
Any videos on how to lay capsheet and base on flat roof cricket areas?
Yes, not specifically on crickets but it's the same thing as torching a field
I need to replace rusted drip edge on modified bitumen roof in San Francisco. Current drip edge is just nailed on top of cap sheet. I plan to remove current drip edge. After that, can I just peel back the existing cap sheet with a torch and then slide new drip edge underneath, nail and then torch the cap sheet back on top? I'm looking for a temp solution for a few more years before replacing roof. Thanks.
You probably won’t be able to torch the old cap. The temporary method would be to just install a new drip edge over it. Before you install it put a thin bed of mastic, then once drip edge is installed 3 coarse it with mastic
@@RoofRepairSpecialist Thank you!
I’m doing my garage, it’s only 500 square feet. Can I use a 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 inch drip edge? My garages roof extends two feet and the only thing the drip edge can nail to is a 2x8 fascia
Ya, the size of the drip edge does not really matter.
We're can I fine all the product you are using
Any roofing supply wood have them.
do you know anyone in las vegas who can do a job like you do it?
Not personally, check polyglass website and search for contractors near me
Why is the first roll cut in half?
So the seems of the second and first role do not align. You want to stagger them slightly.
That flashing metal is for the hot mop or gravel. For torch down you use always BONDERIZED with no low rise at all regular 2x4 BONDERIZED DRIP METAL FLASHING
No, wrong on both accounts. Though I think bonderized will probably be best for adhesion, pre painted flashing looks nicer and if done properly will last just as long. And Low Rise is used for torch.
These are not my opinion but manufacturer specs.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist In my experience as a roofer I have had more problems with the low rise than simply installing the regular 2x4 flashing and in the end I have had better results and better customer satisfaction and of course mine. I think that everyone finds their way of working more efficiently and better applied. it is my opinion
And touching on the subject of color flashing, it depends on the client. In my experience, I give them the option that they can paint it in the color of their preference and some, not all, are more satisfied. There are customers who don't care especially when you have rain gutters color doesn't matter.
I learned a lot brother. Thanks
Glad to hear it
Just put plastic cement under the flashing. 🤦🏽♂️
Plastic cement is not rated for high heat. Once you torch it becomes useless.