Do you have a corrugated metal roofing job? If so check out this video that discusses screw placement + screw location + overlapping on a corrugated metal roof ua-cam.com/video/wMdOnxBmu0E/v-deo.html
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is a great one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my cousin finally got astronomical success with it.?
Did my metal roof with a cordless drill. Predrilled all the holes when the panels were on the ground, then set the clutch to the proper setting and let her rip.
Setting the clutch is nice in a perfect word but when you’re running 100’s of screws you run into harder pieces of wood that slows you down adjusting the drill all the time...best way is by feel for me 👍🏽
Stack all the sheet metal for the roof, measure and Mark where each hole is going to go, then drill all panels at once. Three generations of roofing and building.
Pre-drilling doesn't save time, it adds time. Second, whether you pre-drill or not you can still get a nice straight screw line with a string line. I don't recommend pre-drilling sheets prior to installation. Often the sheets will need to shift slightly upon installation and you can easily find that your holes are no longer where you want them.
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is a great one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my cousin finally got astronomical success with it.?
You dont need to use a screwgun atall , you can use a drill with a clutch and set the torque on the drill just remember not to set the torque to high or will overtighten the fixing.
There's nothing more annoying than having to hand-screw something together ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1McjgiqTNcTjrhvRvJWcrk5bzTeQW-Wn except for the pain in your wrist that is. This addition to my tool kit is great and I can get a lot done without all the pain and annoyance. The battery last's a long time and I have yet to run out of power when doing a small project (granted I am saying small project because I'm no construction worker). The only thing that I wish it had was an LED or pair of LEDs to indicate when it was charging and whether or not the charge was complete (or full).
Screw gun is unnecessary for anyone with a few hours experience using a modern impact driver. Trigger is pressure sensitive and power setting exists for low power applications such as metal roof screws.
18 year old corrugated metal roof. Screws with rubber washers are wearing out. Should I replace with new and larger screws or use some kind of product that will coat each screw?
the screws used in this video are prehistoric! New screws are all one piece, bottom out the cupped shaped head against the sheet metal and the internal rubber washer is seated just right. Washer is shielded from the elements.
@@minutemandefense3935 No. I live in McAllen Texas and our local metal building supplier sells them. Their name is Royal Metal Buildings, they are out of San Benito Texas.
@@minutemandefense3935 I believe they are called ZXL screws. I don't have any info on suppliers or links etc but the metal supplier my builder uses (ETAS in Mineola TX) offered them as an upgrade. Well worth the extra I think, knowing that the rubber is not going to perish as fast, and less chance of any overtightening issues
Yes the “Bell” shaped washers protect the rubber gasket better from the sun, but the. downside is that these bell shaped metal washers must be seated exactly flat against the metal panel or else they will prevent the rubber gasket from getting the proper compression. Something to consider when you are going to install thousands of these in a big metal roof.
Also when you see a bare hand wipe a surface they just drilled. One bit of swarf and you slice your finger. I reckon a clip lock system is far neater. No exposed screws.
Not sure I understand the question. An exposed fastener roof that has screws or a standing seam roof that has concealed fasteners and clips? Standing seam is a much better roofing system, but cost twice as much. Check out this video as it explains why. ua-cam.com/video/-4i8UZQ07X0/v-deo.html
The guy in the video does not appear to be using the same screw gun that the video recommends. Is there a reason for this or is it just an oversight? Maybe pros get to a point where they don't need a specialized screw gun?
Chris, The next best option for a screw gun is a variable speed adjustable driver. That's what's being used in this video. It will work fine. See 3:52 in the video.
If it's a roof we use a screw that's approximately 1" longer than the height of the corrugations. In this case it's a 7/8" deep panel and we used a 2" long screw.
Willy. We appreciate the feedback and agree that pre-drilling sheets is a personal preference The main two reasons we would recommend are: 1. If you’re putting a 2” screw in the panel high it can be difficult and time consuming to attach the panels and keep the screw straight and not at an angle. The pilot hole helps a lot. 2. What’s faster? Stacking 10 plus sheets and snapping one chalk line for straight screw lines or snapping chalk lines after the fact? If the installer can keep the screw lines and screws straight and believes it’s quicker without pre-drilling than that’s better Otherwise pre-drilling will actually save you time and provide clean and straight screw lines
@@WesternStatesMetalRoofing Here in Australia we also use a flick line to guarantee a straight line as far as using 50mm screws that is not a problem at all I have used 60mm screws and have no problems the trick is to replace the magnetic tex head bit often !!
Your going to take more time, maybe for you it doesn't matter, I worked for a metal building company if all the materials are on sight a crew of 4 can put up any building under a 60x40 in a day that includes insulation, and doors and windows, all except in overhead doors we had a crew for that
Putting fasteners in the low spots is a very bad idea. This is one of the few videos that correctly shows where to put the screws, in the high points or for a different style roofing, high and mid points. The low points is where the water is. Do not put the screws where the water is. Five years in all low point screws always leak Rather than just show the correct place to put the screws you should have said do not ever go low. Low is where you want a guaranteed roof screws so when the roof fails after the warranty, the roofing company has side jobs fixing leaks on the homeowners dime
some roof manufacturers recommend the low oints for their specific roofing. I think leaks have more to do with the gaskets on the screw washers, old ones wear out and depending on how much pressure they are under they can wear out faster. For most metal roof applications you are correct that they should be placed at the high points though.
The problem I see was installing screws on the ridge part of these corrugated panels, is the screws are not really that long, typically 1 1/2 inches in length, therefore it won't drive into your plywood or rafters very far
Your wrong, all commercial metal building Contractors pre drill their sheets, I know buildings over 40 years old screws tight, I know I bought a 85x100 steel building I had to take down all the screws were still tight
I am a metal roofer and you are correct!! I noticed they used 1/4" drill hole with 1/4" screws lol they also said not to ever use an impact driver..then showed video of someone using just that haha
My view is these exposed screws with rubber will eventually leak as a direct result of movement of the entire structure even if they are correctly driven. Freezing and thawing can also cause the rubber to degrade. also if the fastener corrodes or rusts that also will effect the rubber. The standing shingle with structural form to prevent buckle from heat and cold has to be preferred.
I don't know what elastomer they use on the screws, but there are plenty which are unaffected by any natural earthly temperature range. I imagine they chose one of those. UV deterioration is a more likely problem, but there are elastomers which are pretty inert to that as well.
If you were to look in the installation guides of different manufacturer's you would see it shown both ways. Low = better attachment plus less chance of denting the high rib High = more weather-tight. The majority of installers think there is more value in a weather-tightness vs slightly better attachment. Also unless you have a 29 gauge denting the top of the panels is not really an issue as you would be over-tightening the screw if the panel dented. That would create a potential leak point as it damages the screw washer. We have explained it thoroughly in this video at one minute and 34 seconds ua-cam.com/video/wMdOnxBmu0E/v-deo.html
You would be correct sir by putting your screws on the high point this causes your rubbers to deteriorate faster because expansion and contraction from temperature change works on them more and at some point your rubber usually does not contact anymore when you put them down in the valley their way more likely not to leak I'm sure your comment has or will save a lot of headache for many individuals thank you for speaking out
If you put the screws on the peaks , they are never tight . Long roofing lengths expand and contract in the sun , so they work on the loose hole , and make it oval and elongated .. Thats why the high quality snap over roofing have the screws covered between sheets .
I am in the process of changing my roof from shingles to corrugated galvalume and would like to use self etching primer and then use white silicone cool coat as top coat. Any suggestions on self etching primer?
Why do you put the screws in the highs on corrugated? SMACNA Guidelines show lows. Common sense should be lows. This is the only way to properly torque the screws. Especially over purlins.
The main issue with a drill is that you are likely going to over-tighten the screws. This will damage the sealing washer and water will penetrate between the panel and fastener. My suggestion is to buy a screw gun, but if you cannot do that just pay close attention that you don't over-torque the screws.
Then learn to know when to let off of the trigger at the correct time. just like i said bullshit to their statement of not to use an impact. i use a quarter inch drive impact and don't have any problems because i "KNOW" when to ease off. LEARN
@@123jerro The funny thing is that they are using a Dewalt impact in the video the entire time😂 It is much easier to control the screw depth and speed with an impact.
Derick, there are a lot of factors that go into this and it's a long answer. There is a good video online that should be helpful. Western Rib is just a typical exposed fastener panel. This link should help you. ua-cam.com/video/pEWcwNg29Ag/v-deo.html
Music loud , unecessary and distracting. Imagine going to a job interview with rock music blaring on the radio! The biggest problem with UA-cam videos and the viewer is not given the option of listening to what is being said and turning off the music. Who knows; maybe someday!
Corrugated metal panels should not be used for roofing applications. Does nobody see the problem with 1,000s of penetrations on your roof? All it takes is one improperly installed screw to leak. I don't know why insurance companies cover these
It's been extensively used in Australia for over 100 years and generally performs quite well. There are 50-100 year old houses with corrugated roofing still standing and weather-proof, so it works, despite your mis-givings. The thing I don't get is the American obsession with covering roofs with what look like sheets of thick sandpaper (those asphalt shingles). Can't they afford proper tiles if they want that tiled look?
@@calebfuller4713 The oaks over my studio dripped their tanins and acids down on my asphalt shingles and ate right through them. I'm going with a metal roof now.
@@calebfuller4713 Yeah mate. Moved to US 40 years ago. Asphalt shingles are horrible. Remember when I lived on S.Aust. and the banks didn’t like to loan on a tin roof - they ONLY last 50 years!!
Good for you! Many people would just cut down the trees, but Oaks are particularly valuable to all the little beneficial critters (and thus, to the bigger ones as well) which we are killing off with all our grass and pavement! @@susanconnery5813
We had a Colorbond (corrugated metal) roof on our house in Australia when I was growing up, never had any leakage issues. Love the sound of the rain on it. A massive hailstorm swept through the Eastern Suburbs of Sydney in 1999. Every house in the zone with roof tiles or slate was smashed to pieces causing huge water leaks in those homes. The ones with corrugated metal roofs were only dented and weren’t affected by water leakage. Our new house is 12 years old, we have a Colorbond roof on it. Best investment in my opinion
An "Electric Screwdriver" generally refers to a tool shaped and held like a bulky manual screwdriver, and rather light duty. A "screw gun" generally refers to a tool shaped like an electric hand-drill with a chuck specifically made for the hex-shank of a screwgun bit. They are normally MUCH beefier than an electric screwdriver, and turn a lot faster. Most of them now use an impact-drive mechanism which makes a lot of noise but will drive a 3" deck screw into oak with no "kickback", and don't require lots of force to keep the driver bit from popping out of the screw and mangling it. They are truly amazing.
good essential information, distracted, with a load of unnecessary background noise, why, just because nearly everybody, imitates everybody else,.regardless of the consequences. try and think independently, and ignore, fashion slaves.who are not leaders, just followers.
I've been in the metal roofing industry for so long now, it's not funny. In Australia and New Zealand, we are years ahead of America, and just about every tip you gave on this is pretty bad. If anyone wants to learn how to install roll formed metal roofing or European style tray roofing, don't take any of this as gospel, as this is not the best way.
As an Australian, do you have any videos showing better techniques. BTW I live in Japan and most corrugated roofs are still fastened with cap nails... Spaced about what you would in somewhere like Sydney too, despite the typhoons! (And Japanese cedar battens too, which makes pine look like hardwood by comparison...)
Well, you don't give any other suggestions of how to do it, or where to find better information, so that comment isn't very useful. I WILL google " Installing corrugated metal roofing in Australia", though, and see what comes up...
Do you have a corrugated metal roofing job? If so check out this video that discusses screw placement + screw location + overlapping on a corrugated metal roof
ua-cam.com/video/wMdOnxBmu0E/v-deo.html
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is a great one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my cousin finally got astronomical success with it.?
When making an instructional video leave out the music or keep the volume low.
Did my metal roof with a cordless drill. Predrilled all the holes when the panels were on the ground, then set the clutch to the proper setting and let her rip.
Setting the clutch is nice in a perfect word but when you’re running 100’s of screws you run into harder pieces of wood that slows you down adjusting the drill all the time...best way is by feel for me 👍🏽
@@bullfrog1807 I agree. But the bulk of the screws go in no problem which really speeds up production.
Very helpful video. Love the very specific instructions on each step. Thank you!
Thanks for the tips, most useful. I will be pre drilling the sheets to make sure alignment is correct and no fuss tightening.
Awesome video , she cuts right into the main problems with these, installation fowl-ups.
Wow! what a good video, thank you so much, I am getting ready to do my roof.. and what a cute voice... Thanks again!
Very helpful video, thanks.
This channel is so useful! Thank you very much
Stack all the sheet metal for the roof, measure and Mark where each hole is going to go, then drill all panels at once.
Three generations of roofing and building.
How do these folks walk across the panels without crushing the ribs?
@@alanwhite933 That is what I would like to know. BTW, your drumming on the Yes, Drama album and some OASIS albums was outstanding.
@@thesaneparty4079 Thanks! Anderson gets all the glory....somebody's gotta keep things going.
@@alanwhite933 Walk on the battens. That's it. Been doing it for 36 years.
Pre-drilling doesn't save time, it adds time. Second, whether you pre-drill or not you can still get a nice straight screw line with a string line. I don't recommend pre-drilling sheets prior to installation. Often the sheets will need to shift slightly upon installation and you can easily find that your holes are no longer where you want them.
All these tips helped me a lot thanks!
Glad I could help!
Kudos for the video content! Sorry for butting in, I would appreciate your initial thoughts. Have you tried - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is a great one of a kind guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some decent things about it and my cousin finally got astronomical success with it.?
GREAT VIDEO. LIKE VERY MUCH
You dont need to use a screwgun atall , you can use a drill with a clutch and set the torque on the drill just remember not to set the torque to high or will overtighten the fixing.
That's what I do, works very well.
Thanks for posting !
That is what I use also. No issues with breaking screws or other 'screw failures'.
There's nothing more annoying than having to hand-screw something together ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1McjgiqTNcTjrhvRvJWcrk5bzTeQW-Wn except for the pain in your wrist that is. This addition to my tool kit is great and I can get a lot done without all the pain and annoyance. The battery last's a long time and I have yet to run out of power when doing a small project (granted I am saying small project because I'm no construction worker). The only thing that I wish it had was an LED or pair of LEDs to indicate when it was charging and whether or not the charge was complete (or full).
Screw gun is unnecessary for anyone with a few hours experience using a modern impact driver. Trigger is pressure sensitive and power setting exists for low power applications such as metal roof screws.
18 year old corrugated metal roof. Screws with rubber washers are wearing out. Should I replace with new and larger screws or use some kind of product that will coat each screw?
replace
replace is the better option (and almost always cheaper) but might be a bit more work.
I've seen that a lot, the screws rust, and shrink. Seems like there should be stainless steel screws and washers, (are there?)
Good info. But you def don't need a dedicated screw gun. Most newer drill drivers have variable speed and adjustable clutches.
Thanks for useful information
the screws used in this video are prehistoric! New screws are all one piece, bottom out the cupped shaped head against the sheet metal and the internal rubber washer is seated just right. Washer is shielded from the elements.
Have a link? I'd like to check thse out
@@minutemandefense3935 No. I live in McAllen Texas and our local metal building supplier sells them. Their name is Royal Metal Buildings, they are out of San Benito Texas.
@@minutemandefense3935 I believe they are called ZXL screws. I don't have any info on suppliers or links etc but the metal supplier my builder uses (ETAS in Mineola TX) offered them as an upgrade. Well worth the extra I think, knowing that the rubber is not going to perish as fast, and less chance of any overtightening issues
Yes the “Bell” shaped washers protect the rubber gasket better from the sun, but the. downside is that these bell shaped metal washers must be seated exactly flat against the metal panel or else they will prevent the rubber gasket from getting the proper compression. Something to consider when you are going to install thousands of these in a big metal roof.
Grabbing drilled metal bits with bare hands was the number one injury at my works.
Also when you see a bare hand wipe a surface they just drilled. One bit of swarf and you slice your finger. I reckon a clip lock system is far neater. No exposed screws.
does also covering the screw with some kind of silicone count and help???
very nice tips about roofing installation
We appreciate the positive feedback and support
Can I use these screws in the Philippines
Is this an information video or a music video?
Thank you for the feedback. We have moved away from background music on current and future videos.
@@WesternStatesMetalRoofing great 👍 thanks
Which is better screws are interlocking metal roofs.
Not sure I understand the question. An exposed fastener roof that has screws or a standing seam roof that has concealed fasteners and clips? Standing seam is a much better roofing system, but cost twice as much. Check out this video as it explains why.
ua-cam.com/video/-4i8UZQ07X0/v-deo.html
Why is there no backer strip under the screw line that matches the metal profile? Then there is no problem with the tension of the screws!
i should send this to the roofing company who just messed up my roof. red chalk and metal shavings everywhere, plus caulking drippings
Those shavings will rust. Get them off the roof ASAP. Good luck with this headache
The guy in the video does not appear to be using the same screw gun that the video recommends. Is there a reason for this or is it just an oversight? Maybe pros get to a point where they don't need a specialized screw gun?
Chris,
The next best option for a screw gun is a variable speed adjustable driver. That's what's being used in this video. It will work fine. See 3:52 in the video.
Exact size of the screw pls. Because corogated sheet gap is there.?
If it's a roof we use a screw that's approximately 1" longer than the height of the corrugations. In this case it's a 7/8" deep panel and we used a 2" long screw.
No roofing contractor in their right mind in Australia would frig around and pre-drill the sheets.
Willy. We appreciate the feedback and agree that pre-drilling sheets is a personal preference
The main two reasons we would recommend are:
1. If you’re putting a 2” screw in the panel high it can be difficult and time consuming to attach the panels and keep the screw straight and not at an angle. The pilot hole helps a lot.
2. What’s faster? Stacking 10 plus sheets and snapping one chalk line for straight screw lines or snapping chalk lines after the fact?
If the installer can keep the screw lines and screws straight and believes it’s quicker without pre-drilling than that’s better
Otherwise pre-drilling will actually save you time and provide clean and straight screw lines
@@WesternStatesMetalRoofing Here in Australia we also use a flick line to guarantee a straight line as far as using 50mm screws that is not a problem at all I have used 60mm screws and have no problems the trick is to replace the magnetic tex head bit often !!
@@robertbutler8004 Appreciate the excellent feedback
Your going to take more time, maybe for you it doesn't matter, I worked for a metal building company if all the materials are on sight a crew of 4 can put up any building under a 60x40 in a day that includes insulation, and doors and windows, all except in overhead doors we had a crew for that
@@JohnAdams-xc5yk who are you directing your comment to?
do not accept a roofer too lazy to place screws on the ridge. The gaskets fail all the time even if installed correctly.
It depends on the roof type and location. Screwing on ridges may have a lower wind rating.
Check the manual for the panels you are using.
I wouldn’t call it laziness, to maximise water tightness, always place roof screws through the crests.
Putting fasteners in the low spots is a very bad idea. This is one of the few videos that correctly shows where to put the screws, in the high points or for a different style roofing, high and mid points. The low points is where the water is. Do not put the screws where the water is. Five years in all low point screws always leak
Rather than just show the correct place to put the screws you should have said do not ever go low. Low is where you want a guaranteed roof screws so when the roof fails after the warranty, the roofing company has side jobs fixing leaks on the homeowners dime
some roof manufacturers recommend the low oints for their specific roofing. I think leaks have more to do with the gaskets on the screw washers, old ones wear out and depending on how much pressure they are under they can wear out faster. For most metal roof applications you are correct that they should be placed at the high points though.
The problem I see was installing screws on the ridge part of these corrugated panels, is the screws are not really that long, typically 1 1/2 inches in length, therefore it won't drive into your plywood or rafters very far
The biggest problem I found is that the screw will over tighten against the metal and not even be pulled down against the roof.
Back out the fastener to release the pressure then screw it back in. Saw this on another channel
They make electric screw drivers with torque settings, duh! set it on 9 or 10 and it will be perfect depending on your screws.
10 always works for me.
Good!!!
Guys I am learning woodworking shed plans at *WoodBlueprints. Com* I recommend this website all you guys who are beginner or advance in woodworking
Thank you for this info. I'm a new subscriber and builder. Are these installation tips true for all metal roofing?
Which is better screws at
If you pre drill sheet metal, the screws will back out over time. I have seen it happen on many roofs. Don't pre drill!
Your wrong, all commercial metal building Contractors pre drill their sheets, I know buildings over 40 years old screws tight, I know I bought a 85x100 steel building I had to take down all the screws were still tight
The drill, that was used, was probably too big.
I'm no roofer but I thought the pre drill was a size smaller so the hole just guides the screw in.
I am a metal roofer and you are correct!! I noticed they used 1/4" drill hole with 1/4" screws lol they also said not to ever use an impact driver..then showed video of someone using just that haha
My view is these exposed screws with rubber will eventually leak as a direct result of movement of the entire structure even if they are correctly driven. Freezing and thawing can also cause the rubber to degrade. also if the fastener corrodes or rusts that also will effect the rubber. The standing shingle with structural form to prevent buckle from heat and cold has to be preferred.
I don't know what elastomer they use on the screws, but there are plenty which are unaffected by any natural earthly temperature range. I imagine they chose one of those.
UV deterioration is a more likely problem, but there are elastomers which are pretty inert to that as well.
How to install pvc roof cleaner
I was taught to put screws in the valleys to prevent compressing the sheet and throwing off the layout.
If you were to look in the installation guides of different manufacturer's you would see it shown both ways.
Low = better attachment plus less chance of denting the high rib
High = more weather-tight.
The majority of installers think there is more value in a weather-tightness vs slightly better attachment.
Also unless you have a 29 gauge denting the top of the panels is not really an issue as you would be over-tightening the screw if the panel dented. That would create a potential leak point as it damages the screw washer.
We have explained it thoroughly in this video at one minute and 34 seconds
ua-cam.com/video/wMdOnxBmu0E/v-deo.html
put all my screws in the valleys and have not leaked a drop in 21 years ... love the rain on my tin roof at night ...
You would be correct sir by putting your screws on the high point this causes your rubbers to deteriorate faster because expansion and contraction from temperature change works on them more and at some point your rubber usually does not contact anymore when you put them down in the valley their way more likely not to leak I'm sure your comment has or will save a lot of headache for many individuals thank you for speaking out
If you put the screws on the peaks , they are never tight . Long roofing lengths expand and contract in the sun , so they work on the loose hole , and make it oval and elongated .. Thats why the high quality snap over roofing have the screws covered between sheets .
I am in the process of changing my roof from shingles to corrugated galvalume and would like to use self etching primer and then use white silicone cool coat as top coat. Any suggestions on self etching primer?
Why not try the Flex Seal with fleece
Why do you put the screws in the highs on corrugated? SMACNA Guidelines show lows. Common sense should be lows. This is the only way to properly torque the screws. Especially over purlins.
Rain...
if you are putting the screws in the unders you are a fucking mong, all the water flows down the under not the over 😂😂
What if I only have a drill?
The main issue with a drill is that you are likely going to over-tighten the screws. This will damage the sealing washer and water will penetrate between the panel and fastener. My suggestion is to buy a screw gun, but if you cannot do that just pay close attention that you don't over-torque the screws.
Then learn to know when to let off of the trigger at the correct time. just like i said bullshit to their statement of not to use an impact. i use a quarter inch drive impact and don't have any problems because i "KNOW" when to ease off. LEARN
@@123jerro
The funny thing is that they are using a Dewalt impact in the video the entire time😂
It is much easier to control the screw depth and speed with an impact.
Can you install Western Rib onto battens?
Derick, there are a lot of factors that go into this and it's a long answer. There is a good video online that should be helpful. Western Rib is just a typical exposed fastener panel.
This link should help you.
ua-cam.com/video/pEWcwNg29Ag/v-deo.html
I've got so many idea how to use and to. Make, do
Music loud , unecessary and distracting. Imagine going to a job interview with rock music blaring on the radio! The biggest problem with UA-cam videos and the viewer is not given the option of listening to what is being said and turning off the music. Who knows; maybe someday!
We appreciate the feedback. We have made changes on more recent videos and eliminated music on the main sections of content.
Funny how in video the installers are using impact drivers which are fine if you know when to let go.
I have literally never in my life seen a handheld drill that just keeps spinning after you let off the trigger like the one you just showed there.
Drivers for installing metal roofing
Those screw holes were drilled a little too big weren't they?
Reminds me of Malcolm a lot
Great, on how to drill holes, good on how tight. But, not what the discrimination said. I wanted to learn....the right and wrong way...nevermind.
If You Can't Screw by eyeballing it you don't need to be screwing and I don't have time for a chalk line
Is that why you’re on here looking at how it’s done ? 😂
Guys I am learning woodworking shed plans at *WoodBlueprints. Com* I recommend this website all you guys who are beginner or advance in woodworking
@@timothybint4960 Hi! Hi!.....now, now TB!.....Hi! Hi!
I won’t be using you to install my roof
👌👌👌
Haha small size of screws! No dome under the screws? And 19mm for the sealing washer and out of v2a.
Corrugated metal panels should not be used for roofing applications. Does nobody see the problem with 1,000s of penetrations on your roof? All it takes is one improperly installed screw to leak. I don't know why insurance companies cover these
It's been extensively used in Australia for over 100 years and generally performs quite well. There are 50-100 year old houses with corrugated roofing still standing and weather-proof, so it works, despite your mis-givings. The thing I don't get is the American obsession with covering roofs with what look like sheets of thick sandpaper (those asphalt shingles). Can't they afford proper tiles if they want that tiled look?
@@calebfuller4713 The oaks over my studio dripped their tanins and acids down on my asphalt shingles and ate right through them. I'm going with a metal roof now.
@@calebfuller4713
Yeah mate.
Moved to US 40 years ago. Asphalt shingles are horrible. Remember when I lived on S.Aust. and the banks didn’t like to loan on a tin roof - they ONLY last 50 years!!
Good for you! Many people would just cut down the trees, but Oaks are particularly valuable to all the little beneficial critters (and thus, to the bigger ones as well) which we are killing off with all our grass and pavement! @@susanconnery5813
We had a Colorbond (corrugated metal) roof on our house in Australia when I was growing up, never had any leakage issues. Love the sound of the rain on it. A massive hailstorm swept through the Eastern Suburbs of Sydney in 1999. Every house in the zone with roof tiles or slate was smashed to pieces causing huge water leaks in those homes. The ones with corrugated metal roofs were only dented and weren’t affected by water leakage. Our new house is 12 years old, we have a Colorbond roof on it. Best investment in my opinion
Metal roofing is like a wife
If you don’t screw it enough it will end up at you’re neighbors
LOLOLOL
Das sowas in Deutschland höchstens auf Gartenhäuschen und Schuppen verwendung findet habe noch hoffnung für Deutschland.
what is an screw gun? is that another name for an electric screwdriver?
A Tec screw gun has a adjustable clutch
An "Electric Screwdriver" generally refers to a tool shaped and held like a bulky manual screwdriver, and rather light duty.
A "screw gun" generally refers to a tool shaped like an electric hand-drill with a chuck specifically made for the hex-shank of a screwgun bit. They are normally MUCH beefier than an electric screwdriver, and turn a lot faster. Most of them now use an impact-drive mechanism which makes a lot of noise but will drive a 3" deck screw into oak with no "kickback", and don't require lots of force to keep the driver bit from popping out of the screw and mangling it. They are truly amazing.
That voice dragging it out sorry love. Monosyllabic
Why does everyone insist on using narrators that use this baby voice? It's so grating & unprofessional sounding.
good essential information, distracted, with a load of unnecessary background noise, why, just because nearly everybody, imitates everybody else,.regardless of the consequences.
try and think independently, and ignore, fashion slaves.who are not leaders, just followers.
I've been in the metal roofing industry for so long now, it's not funny. In Australia and New Zealand, we are years ahead of America, and just about every tip you gave on this is pretty bad. If anyone wants to learn how to install roll formed metal roofing or European style tray roofing, don't take any of this as gospel, as this is not the best way.
As an Australian, do you have any videos showing better techniques. BTW I live in Japan and most corrugated roofs are still fastened with cap nails... Spaced about what you would in somewhere like Sydney too, despite the typhoons! (And Japanese cedar battens too, which makes pine look like hardwood by comparison...)
Well, you don't give any other suggestions of how to do it, or where to find better information, so that comment isn't very useful.
I WILL google " Installing corrugated metal roofing in Australia", though, and see what comes up...