What an absolute delight to find such a well designed, meticulously precise build whose craftsmanship is outstanding in every respect! The exemplary design and beautiful build of the chassis together with the remarkable care and attention to detail of the floor system and wall supports is captivating and inspirational. The care taken in the timber frame whose flawless joints remind me of the precision Japanese carpentry seen on UA-cam and is testament to the superb quality ofthis exquisite build. Subscribed!
I'm very pleased you built atop of a metal sheet. I can't tell you how many campers I have repaired that had bare plywood that had become mouse houses. critters don't like the flavor of aluminum.
@@Ballstothewalls69 Dissimilar metals corrode, especially in the presence of an electrolyte. Realistically, keeping moisture out will prevent galvanic corrosion in this use case.
Very nice build. I spent 4 years in the shell department as a roof setter for Skyline RV. With this small of travel trailer it doesn't matter so much because you are limited on space when it comes to cabinetry. We built them from the inside out meaning once the floor was built the plumbing was installed then all the floor level cabinetry was set at 1 5/8 from the edge of the floor. Then the pre built walls were installed. The overhead cabinets were then screwed to the walls. After that every thing was back stapled (just hope you never have to remove any of them) next came the prebuilt roof and all the overhead cabinets were back stapled in place. After that it went to electrical then metal then final finish and dealer prep. We were building about 13 a day depending what they were. We did 5th wheels, toy haulers, park models and travel trailers. You really did a wonderful job.
@Chris C indeed my friend, to this day I probably hold the worlds reccord for.... "The man most cussed out by RV repairmen!" I think if I were to build my own I'd still build inside out but instead of back stapling I'd put backers in the walls and cleats on the cabinets and screw them to the walls And the same with the overheads. I've actually been toying around with doing a teardrop using one of those harbor freight trailers.
I done an add-on for some people, add-on to a modular home. Those staples effin suck! I'm not a fan of modular homes! Basically a camper with more space!
I had the misfortune of working for at a Fleetwood plant (metal skirting, roofs, and installing 12v components), I can't recall how many we were putting out a day but they loved to run us ragged Monday thru Thursday and then send us home Friday to screw us out of overtime.
@@djk8541 Yip they're all sweat shops. The nice thing for us was the pay being based on insensitive (basically piece work) when you finished your coaches you went home. What sucked was when you had a bunch of 5th wheels with slideouts and toy haulers. Then it was a really long day!
@@thisolddog2259And that is a big part of the problem with crap RV quality. Slam em out and go home. Staples through wires? Not my problem. Screw under the roof membrane? Not my problem. It all adds up to a bunch of people who just don't care and the purchaser getting a product that starts destroying itself before it leaves the plant.
Having been a carpenter and cabinet maker almost all my adult life, I'm excited to begin building my new project as a small camper. As usual, I've always done loads of research before I begin a project of this magnitude. Thank you so much for your well-thought out series; I look forward into gaining new insights from you and your channel!!
This build will get you out of your truck bed and into a real cabin on wheels, love your perseverance and dedication to your channel, Scott love that you take us along on your journey, and as always be safe
Nicely done. No over kill with the wood to add extra weight and no skimping on structural integrity either. Great idea with the aluminum under floor to protect against water and other damages. Can't wait to see your other ideas.
Aluminium onto a steel frame??? what about electrolysis??? as soon as the underneath gets wet you've just made a huge battery!!!! the steel chassis WILL rust and the alloy will corrode!! and even worse people are telling you what a great job you've done!! good intentions don't mean good work!
@@reefer2917 naw.... there's no aluminum/steel contact whatsoever. The Aluminum has a layer of glue adhering it to the spray paint on the frame which is secure enough to hold the whole thing together through broad vibrations and potholes
Nice build. On my camper build I found online an 1/8" rubber roll 8' x 20'. I made a sandwich, rubber, 1/2" treated plywood, 1/2" foam insulation, 1/2" plywood turned 90°. It worked out well and floor is warm.
Very nice build and well made video. My two cents. If you are concerned about water damage on the plywood, you can use marine ply. Yes, it's a lot more expensive. Also on my Architecture school project, I got dinged for placing aluminum directly onto steel. I was supposed to put a layer of rubber in between to prevent electrolysis. Looking forward to the next video.
@@Jeaux20The use of stainless steel straps on aluminum conduit is one of the preferred methods in waste water plants. Very little corrosion will be seen even after several years in this toxic environment.
Salute Pierce! He came THROUGH in the clutch and helped make this fantastic video. Great music, fire af lighting, and near melodic narration. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
Just a heads up, you should look into the steel against aluminum. They react and the aluminum degrades. I tore apart an old travel trailer once and there were holes in the aluminum sheeting where it touched the steel.
This is so over the top great!! Since being stuck at home, and finishing my shed this is a wonderful project to start thanks for the in-depth instruction
Credit to you for having a go at it yourself. Having said that starting something as large as this without prior experience can lead to issues, which you have a few going on. The major one is the timber framing, especially for the roof. Do you have a carpenter friend or someone that can help you out? There is a lot wrong with it, not something that would survive going 70mph down a highway and passing a semi.
@@Erika70079 there isn't a good load path from the roof to the metal trailer frame. The studs are screwed to the floor flashing only, this is not good! It could easily pull off the trailer frame and the whole top of the camper fly off. Also the frame needs to be braced, if you look carefully when he pushes the framing the whole timber structure deforms! It needs at least some ply bracing sheets, metal strap bracing, or timber inclined bracing. Additional to that, he has unknowingly built in some self-destruct mechanisms by using different metals (S/S fixings to aluminium and steel). These dissimilar metals cause rapid corrosion, leading to premature failure of the metals/fixings. Also boxing in the ply flooring like that will lead to condensation accumulating, with nowhere to go it will lead to premature rotting of the floor, which he was trying to prevent. While a little more expensive, composite boards used by the marine industry are stronger, lighter and will never rot! Relying on silicone and "sticky tape" to hold it all together.... sorry no thanks!
@@rp3874 I was thinking the same, and also, you should never use silicone on aluminium. The acid in the silicone etches the aluminium and will eventually eat up the metal and make it porous. There is silicone w/o acid which I hope he used, but butyl or sikaflex is preferred as a sealent.
Thanks for the very thorough video of your quality rebuild. Aside from the potential for galvanic corrosion, already mentioned, I would be concerned with that aluminum "pan" causing any water (spills, condensation) that might get into the wood floor to be trapped. Without a path to drain, trapped water can cause rotting and mold. Since you have it in cold environments often, perhaps interior heating or dehumidifier will allow adequate evaporation.
I think instead of the metal pan it sits in you could just take the plywood floor to be sprayed with a bed liner like Rhino Skin or the similar it's what the factory used on pretty much the entire bottom of my RV 30 year's ago and it's still solid even after my onboard water tank leaked and had to be replaced. Like many of the comments mention the pan might be your weakest link.
Metal touching wood without airflow is a sure recipe for rot. Humidity inside the trailer cabins, is the real culprit for rv camper trailer failures. Without air space and air flow is also a recipe for black mold.
Nice work! Curious if you bolted the floor to frame. I suppose that would be unnecessary because the edge flashing is steel and bolted and also avoids holes through the floor
Personally speaking, I would have most definitely screwed the wood floor to the frame of the trailer just for conscience sake. Not totally depending on the thin aluminum edging to hold the entire build to the trailer frame.. Just saying. you could always waterproof a bolt with rubber washer and gasket sealer
This is a great build and to not have any experience in building a camper. You make it seem very easy and informative as well! The craftsmanship is beyond what most may think of an untrained builder but I don't see that all! Congratulations and I hope you enjoy those getaway moments and new memories you'll create with "Eddie"
In my experience 'untrained builders' of anything often do a more thorough job than the 'professionals' simply because they don't know how to 'cut corners' - or even which corners can be cut. When working in a discipline I'm not familiar with I tend to 'over engineer' simply 'to be sure to be sure'. "You can't break the rules until you know how to play the game." (with apologies to Rickie Lee Jones)
When you put down the boards on the aluminum... Try the pressure sensitive flooring/carpet adhesive if you're looking for a better seal. It's thin enough and as long as you give it air long enough to at least get a little tacky... Then you have time to position and a fantastically confident hardcore but buoyant sealer/adhesive that handles well in hot cold and wont crack when "dry".
Very Nice trailer. Maybe i missed something, but i didnt see any bolts bolting the plywood and aluminum floor to the metal frame of the trailer. It seemed like the only bond to the only bond was glue
I know I am a little late to the party. I have built something similar to this trailer and to cover my subfloor, instead of sheet metal, I used a thin layer of fiber glass on bottom sides and top of all the plywood subfloor. Worked great.
Why isn't the framing for the walls, or the subfloor for that matter, attached to the steel trailer frame? Isn't it a bad idea to depend on that thin sheet metal and construction adhesive to hold everything together?
The weight alone will hold the build down and when you are driving you do not much to hold it there and any screw or bolt to hold it down would make it not water proof
@@carsondavid4449 I think you are underestimating the force created by wind. For example, aside from winds due to storms, I'd be concerned with incredible blast hit from a tractor trailer flying by going the opposite direction on a two-lane road. Add that to a day maybe he's doing a bit faster than usual and there is tremendous force there. I think it would be prudent if he were to 'still' drill and bolt everything to the frame through the walls bottom plate even if he had to create some access holes from the inside. Hopefully he can access still from under cabinets and holding tank etc areas. The frame looks very sturdy from what I could tell. If he builds another, he'll probably use a thick Rhino spray, maybe backed up with rubber strips in line with each floor member to fend off any unlike metal reactions..of which commenters have made him very aware by now. I think his walls integrity will stiffen up a fair bit depending on what he plans to sheath them with. The one thing I wasn't clear on, was whether the floor holding flashing with the stainless steel bolts was also made out of aluminum? If it was a thick galvanized steel flashing, that'd be good to know. Otherwise I too think it's a weak spot. Sure makes nice true joints and cuts. The man has skills. Wish him and the family only good things.👍
@@user-3tf67bk46u all the older trailers were built this way. Skirting boards were attached to the frame and the wall framing was attached to the skirt. RVs need to have sway because of exactly what you described. A completely rigid frame would fail quickly on the road.
I like where your going with this. I'd use solid rim board on the roof edge and I'd have used half lap joinery...but that's me and I haven't got a project to build so you keep doing you looking forward to the progress
I bought a 69’ prowler at 16ft. Never meant to polish a “turd”, the frame and axel are pristine considering its age. I realized I bit off more than I could chew- kind of expected it - but didn’t realize how much I would have to do to keep it rolling! Your video helped- underbelly needs to be reinforced to protect from moisture! Videos are helping me plan for design as I expect to gut this sucker further (honestly, to its frame) and make it a traveling/camping beast! 🥰 thank you!
Apart from this being a great video it’s also impressive you were able to work out on the drive without folk bothering you like they do in my neighbourhood.
This is cool! I've been wanting to build on to my 5x10 trailer and make a small concession trailer. This video is probably as close as I'll get. Subbed.
Great video and enjoyed it so much!!! First day of 2022 and college football was on tv. I came across your video on my cellphone and couldn't stop watching so I put the TV on mute to watch your amazing work.
thanks for the inspiration i have an old pop up camper trailer that had been converted to flat cargo 6x10 single axel with plywood deck.. that going to utilize some of your ideas to make a tool trailer. great job. and again thank you 👌
I really like the aluminum undercoating you did. Especially the flange you put along the edge. I wanted to ask if you have had any issues with the aluminum making contact with the steel causing chemical corrosion?
I’ve always wondered why manufacturers don’t use a 3/4” composite floor. Kinda like synthetic decking. That way you wouldn’t have had to spend all that time screwing around with that aluminum. That would also prevent any water leak damage from inside the trailer as well. From water leaks. Just an idea I’ve always pondered..
The only thing I would have done is paint the bottom of the aluminum also aluminum in contact with steel will corrode horribly the paint on the steal will offer some protection but with such a elaborate build it wouldn’t be worth it only lasting 10 years or so.
I'm redoing my attic and YT algorithms suggested this video for me to watch though it is not related to my current project. That said, the care you are putting into your build is impressive and I have a few questions. 1) Did you use regular decking or marine grade (I may have missed it if you stated in the video). If regular, why? 2) Did you consider tongue and groove plywood? In an attic situation, it really enhances support. There are also H-clips you can slip between plywood (w/o T&G) to help keep the panels inline, too. As you know, RV trailers are homes experiencing a constant earthquakes and just wonder if the T&G or H-clips would help at all in a DIY build such as this.
That was very thoughtful and probably works well on the floor. Your precision is admirable as well. As to the floor... I may have used pressure treated plywood and painted the underside with plastic roofing cement. I use it on ground contact posts a foot above and a foot below the contact point and it works great. It would be a LOT less work (and maybe less expensive as well). You could alleviate the aluminum sheeting underside altogether. Even with road debris you probably would only have to repaint the underside every three years or so.
I really like your thought process on the design and construction of the cabin. Lessons learned from #1 to make #2 much better is invaluable. Well done!
Very impressive definitely that’s the difference when you make it yourself you know that your using the best materials so it will last a long time. Great project!!!
Look in the tile section ( HD & Lowe's) They have brush on waterproofing for our tile showers. UPC approved and I always add fabric to reinforce. Might be applied and it paint able.
I'm enjoying the build! Have you thought about spraying the trailer frame with something like Fluid Film or Cosmoline to help protect it during the winter?
VHB tape should work to secure the aluminum to the steel. There's a product called StarBoard, it’s used primarily in marine applications, it’s a UV stable high density polyethylene board. which would eliminate any possibility of any kind of rotting or decay. VHB tape that to your trailer frame and ain’t nothing going anywhere ever well until the frame rusts away. awesome craftsmanship awesome ideas awesome video. Keep it up.
The aluminum tub seems to be a good idea but on the other hand its like a tub if water got in. I'm kind of 50 50 on that. I'd love to see it taken apart after 5 years to see! Good work!!
Great build video! Just started watching and will watch the rest. To help with moisture I would have also used HVAC foil tape on the upper seams of the aluminum. That would have helped in sealing out the elements a little more.
Be conscious of having mixed metals exposed to each other. Having aluminum and steel back to back without an insulator of some sort (e.g. rubber grommet) you can get galvanic corrosion. Nice work, will be watching through your progress
When we built the Fifth wheel, we did it in a 2 car garage with a 7' door. We assembled the floor, walls up to the point where they kick up for the part over the bed and had those sections fabricated. with interior paneling. When it was time, we rolled the assembled portion out and jacked it up and rolled the frame under. The kick up area was keyed to the rest of the sides and slipped together quickly. We had it all assembled outside in one day and got it covered for protection.
Ever hear of condensation? you have built a place (sealed sheet metal) for condensed water, caused by temp difference between ext and int temperature, to collect from the inside and drip down into the aluminum pan with no drain.
Thanks for the video, great stuff to watch construction! Did you consider using phenolic ply, the type with a bonded pvc coating? Much easier then the ali sheet? 👍
VART built one @10 years ago for moving. Using a 20’ flatbed. Drive it cross country for moving. Using factory stake pockets. Yours is a lot more finished. His was enclosed moving.
really cool video. it looks like the old Eddie was from a rotted pop up. i have an old pop up trailer thats been gutted. i want to build a solar system bank inside of an enclosed trailer. ill probably use the popup to build that out. should be a bit challenging. glad to see videos like this. it helps me to know what to be doing better.
Great job. I think I would anchor the walls and floor to the frame using some carriage bolts. Construction adhesive is great but I wouldn’t trust it alone to keep the house on the frame.
Much more surprised at this point in the build that there is not at least a few bolting points into the deck. But I guess weight of later parts will assist.
Nice! We too were concerned about plywood, we're working on our build now and went with ACM, it proved to be a bit challenging to work with but hopefully will last longer than plywood.
Very nice job I am extremely impressed I have bought and fixed lots of 1950s and the 60s camp trailers and they are built very chintzy this trailer you are building you can take it to Moab and run the courses very good job
What an impressive project! If I follow your video, the entire frame on top of aluminum sheet is adhered to the metal frame below by the construction adhesives. Is that correct?
I'm amazed how many DIY trailer builds I've watched where the wood has not had some sort of waterproofing, for wood that will no be seen again until it rots. I'm no metal expert but stainless steel and aluminum don't mix without a barrier in between. Sometimes cheap is expensive. Awespme trailer frame. Best of luck on your build.
What an absolute delight to find such a well designed, meticulously precise build whose craftsmanship is outstanding in every respect!
The exemplary design and beautiful build of the chassis together with the remarkable care and attention to detail of the floor system and wall supports is captivating and inspirational.
The care taken in the timber frame whose flawless joints remind me of the precision Japanese carpentry seen on UA-cam and is testament to the superb quality ofthis exquisite build. Subscribed!
Thank you.
Perfektno
Try to be successful
Slow down dude. Your whole face is turning brown.
Felix Cat , I couldn't have said it any better. This is a First Class 🥇 build . Enjoyed every minute. And am also ,now subscribed. Scott deserves a 🏆
Are you worried about galvanic corrosion between the aluminum floor and steel frame?
He should
I was about to say same thing. I'd worry the two will rub in time to start the corrosion process
Is any moisture gets through then yeah, he should worry about it.
bolting the wooden frame and floor to the metal trailer would be a good idea
I was wondering about that, I'd be afraid of that floor warping, i'd want it secured to the steel frame. Am I wrong there?
I'm very pleased you built atop of a metal sheet. I can't tell you how many campers I have repaired that had bare plywood that had become mouse houses. critters don't like the flavor of aluminum.
Doesn’t different metals touching corrode them? Or does the black paint on the steel prevent that
@@Ballstothewalls69 Dissimilar metals corrode, especially in the presence of an electrolyte. Realistically, keeping moisture out will prevent galvanic corrosion in this use case.
Very nice build. I spent 4 years in the shell department as a roof setter for Skyline RV. With this small of travel trailer it doesn't matter so much because you are limited on space when it comes to cabinetry. We built them from the inside out meaning once the floor was built the plumbing was installed then all the floor level cabinetry was set at 1 5/8 from the edge of the floor. Then the pre built walls were installed. The overhead cabinets were then screwed to the walls.
After that every thing was back stapled (just hope you never have to remove any of them) next came the prebuilt roof and all the overhead cabinets were back stapled in place. After that it went to electrical then metal then final finish and dealer prep. We were building about 13 a day depending what they were. We did 5th wheels, toy haulers, park models and travel trailers. You really did a wonderful job.
@Chris C indeed my friend, to this day I probably hold the worlds reccord for.... "The man most cussed out by RV repairmen!"
I think if I were to build my own I'd still build inside out but instead of back stapling I'd put backers in the walls and cleats on the cabinets and screw them to the walls And the same with the overheads. I've actually been toying around with doing a teardrop using one of those harbor freight trailers.
I done an add-on for some people, add-on to a modular home. Those staples effin suck! I'm not a fan of modular homes! Basically a camper with more space!
I had the misfortune of working for at a Fleetwood plant (metal skirting, roofs, and installing 12v components), I can't recall how many we were putting out a day but they loved to run us ragged Monday thru Thursday and then send us home Friday to screw us out of overtime.
@@djk8541 Yip they're all sweat shops. The nice thing for us was the pay being based on insensitive (basically piece work) when you finished your coaches you went home. What sucked was when you had a bunch of 5th wheels with slideouts and toy haulers. Then it was a really long day!
@@thisolddog2259And that is a big part of the problem with crap RV quality. Slam em out and go home. Staples through wires? Not my problem. Screw under the roof membrane? Not my problem. It all adds up to a bunch of people who just don't care and the purchaser getting a product that starts destroying itself before it leaves the plant.
This is the third video I've watched in building trailers; with our sounding naive, you guys are geniuses. Totally awesome.
Having been a carpenter and cabinet maker almost all my adult life, I'm excited to begin building my new project as a small camper. As usual, I've always done loads of research before I begin a project of this magnitude. Thank you so much for your well-thought out series; I look forward into gaining new insights from you and your channel!!
This build will get you out of your truck bed and into a real cabin on wheels, love your perseverance and dedication to your channel, Scott love that you take us along on your journey, and as always be safe
Thanks 👍My truck setup is great for sleeping but not much else. I've always wanted a cabin and this will be it.
Nicely done. No over kill with the wood to add extra weight and no skimping on structural integrity either. Great idea with the aluminum under floor to protect against water and other damages. Can't wait to see your other ideas.
Aluminium onto a steel frame??? what about electrolysis??? as soon as the underneath gets wet you've just made a huge battery!!!! the steel chassis WILL rust and the alloy will corrode!! and even worse people are telling you what a great job you've done!! good intentions don't mean good work!
@@reefer2917 naw.... there's no aluminum/steel contact whatsoever. The Aluminum has a layer of glue adhering it to the spray paint on the frame which is secure enough to hold the whole thing together through broad vibrations and potholes
Nice build. On my camper build I found online an 1/8" rubber roll 8' x 20'. I made a sandwich, rubber, 1/2" treated plywood, 1/2" foam insulation, 1/2" plywood turned 90°. It worked out well and floor is warm.
Nothing beats custom. You’re doing one hell of a job!
I appreciate that
Your great-great grand children will be using this trailer. I took notice to the direction of lapping of the aluminum too, nice work.
Very nice build and well made video. My two cents. If you are concerned about water damage on the plywood, you can use marine ply. Yes, it's a lot more expensive. Also on my Architecture school project, I got dinged for placing aluminum directly onto steel. I was supposed to put a layer of rubber in between to prevent electrolysis. Looking forward to the next video.
Wouldn't the rubber barrier be moot if there were metal screws holding the flange to the metal or would it not matter since they're stainless?
@@Jeaux20 The stainless bolts shouldn't be used with aluminum either. That's going to cause corrosion too.
Can use polycarbonate plastic floor as well
@@Jeaux20The use of stainless steel straps on aluminum conduit is one of the preferred methods in waste water plants. Very little corrosion will be seen even after several years in this toxic environment.
Salute Pierce! He came THROUGH in the clutch and helped make this fantastic video. Great music, fire af lighting, and near melodic narration. Thanks for taking the time to do this!
Just a heads up, you should look into the steel against aluminum. They react and the aluminum degrades. I tore apart an old travel trailer once and there were holes in the aluminum sheeting where it touched the steel.
Yes, the process has a long name, and I am aware of it. Thanks though.
@@DrenalinAdventures ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT ELECTROLYSIS?
@@johnnySMALLpepper galvanic corrosion is the term.
lol, I guess it's not such a long name.
My thought also. Hope this holds up. Seems like a nice guy
This build is nothing short of Glorious!
Wow Scott!! Very impressed with your thoughts n design n craftsmanship. Confident people would buy your plans.
I appreciate that!
Such attention to detail will pay off as your children and their children continue to use that trailer
Amazing! Can’t wait to see the final product…
Thank you Me too!
love this. 63 now and wanting to build me a cargo camper to go visit this beautiful USA. gave me some wonderful ideas.
This is so over the top great!! Since being stuck at home, and finishing my shed this is a wonderful project to start thanks for the in-depth instruction
You’re welcome 👍
Credit to you for having a go at it yourself. Having said that starting something as large as this without prior experience can lead to issues, which you have a few going on. The major one is the timber framing, especially for the roof. Do you have a carpenter friend or someone that can help you out? There is a lot wrong with it, not something that would survive going 70mph down a highway and passing a semi.
I'm hoping to build one of these soon. Don't have a carpenter friend though. What are some major things you see wrong?
@@Erika70079 there isn't a good load path from the roof to the metal trailer frame. The studs are screwed to the floor flashing only, this is not good! It could easily pull off the trailer frame and the whole top of the camper fly off. Also the frame needs to be braced, if you look carefully when he pushes the framing the whole timber structure deforms! It needs at least some ply bracing sheets, metal strap bracing, or timber inclined bracing. Additional to that, he has unknowingly built in some self-destruct mechanisms by using different metals (S/S fixings to aluminium and steel). These dissimilar metals cause rapid corrosion, leading to premature failure of the metals/fixings. Also boxing in the ply flooring like that will lead to condensation accumulating, with nowhere to go it will lead to premature rotting of the floor, which he was trying to prevent. While a little more expensive, composite boards used by the marine industry are stronger, lighter and will never rot! Relying on silicone and "sticky tape" to hold it all together.... sorry no thanks!
@@rp3874 I was thinking the same, and also, you should never use silicone on aluminium. The acid in the silicone etches the aluminium and will eventually eat up the metal and make it porous. There is silicone w/o acid which I hope he used, but butyl or sikaflex is preferred as a sealent.
Thanks for the very thorough video of your quality rebuild.
Aside from the potential for galvanic corrosion, already mentioned, I would be concerned with that aluminum "pan" causing any water (spills, condensation) that might get into the wood floor to be trapped. Without a path to drain, trapped water can cause rotting and mold. Since you have it in cold environments often, perhaps interior heating or dehumidifier will allow adequate evaporation.
Great job !
After all said and done not enough money in the world could ever make me want to sell it .
That's truly amazing .
I think instead of the metal pan it sits in you could just take the plywood floor to be sprayed with a bed liner like Rhino Skin or the similar it's what the factory used on pretty much the entire bottom of my RV 30 year's ago and it's still solid even after my onboard water tank leaked and had to be replaced.
Like many of the comments mention the pan might be your weakest link.
Yeah, l would have sealed the ply or used marine grade.
Metal touching wood without airflow is a sure recipe for rot. Humidity inside the trailer cabins, is the real culprit for rv camper trailer failures. Without air space and air flow is also a recipe for black mold.
I'D SAY THIS WAS A CUSTOM BUILD TOP TO BOTTOM WITH A LOT OF UPGRADES STOCK AND INGENIOUS DESIGN ENJOYED THE VIDEO FROM MINUTE 1
This is a very good Installing Travel show and we love it !
Glad you enjoy it!
When you have the skill,creativity appears. Nice work
Thank you very much!
Nice work! Curious if you bolted the floor to frame. I suppose that would be unnecessary because the edge flashing is steel and bolted and also avoids holes through the floor
Personally speaking, I would have most definitely screwed the wood floor to the frame of the trailer just for conscience sake. Not totally depending on the thin aluminum edging to hold the entire build to the trailer frame.. Just saying.
you could always waterproof a bolt with rubber washer and gasket sealer
Oh my gosh I save this to my hard drive because this is one of the projects I want to work on this summer. Thank you so much.
This is a great build and to not have any experience in building a camper. You make it seem very easy and informative as well! The craftsmanship is beyond what most may think of an untrained builder but I don't see that all! Congratulations and I hope you enjoy those getaway moments and new memories you'll create with "Eddie"
Thanks so much!
In my experience 'untrained builders' of anything often do a more thorough job than the 'professionals' simply because they don't know how to 'cut corners' - or even which corners can be cut.
When working in a discipline I'm not familiar with I tend to 'over engineer' simply 'to be sure to be sure'.
"You can't break the rules until you know how to play the game." (with apologies to Rickie Lee Jones)
Personally I love how he cut his corners. So square and even.
When you put down the boards on the aluminum... Try the pressure sensitive flooring/carpet adhesive if you're looking for a better seal. It's thin enough and as long as you give it air long enough to at least get a little tacky... Then you have time to position and a fantastically confident hardcore but buoyant sealer/adhesive that handles well in hot cold and wont crack when "dry".
Very Nice trailer. Maybe i missed something, but i didnt see any bolts bolting the plywood and aluminum floor to the metal frame of the trailer. It seemed like the only bond to the only bond was glue
It held on by the weight of Joe bidens ego
Very well put together I'm going with many of your techniques.
I know I am a little late to the party. I have built something similar to this trailer and to cover my subfloor, instead of sheet metal, I used a thin layer of fiber glass on bottom sides and top of all the plywood subfloor. Worked great.
Excellent call for the aluminum floor. Great job.cool.
Why isn't the framing for the walls, or the subfloor for that matter, attached to the steel trailer frame? Isn't it a bad idea to depend on that thin sheet metal and construction adhesive to hold everything together?
Was thinking the same thing. I don't think the adhesive can adhere to aluminum that well anyway because it is too smooth.
The weight alone will hold the build down and when you are driving you do not much to hold it there and any screw or bolt to hold it down would make it not water proof
@@carsondavid4449 I think you are underestimating the force created by wind. For example, aside from winds due to storms, I'd be concerned with incredible blast hit from a tractor trailer flying by going the opposite direction on a two-lane road. Add that to a day maybe he's doing a bit faster than usual and there is tremendous force there. I think it would be prudent if he were to 'still' drill and bolt everything to the frame through the walls bottom plate even if he had to create some access holes from the inside. Hopefully he can access still from under cabinets and holding tank etc areas. The frame looks very sturdy from what I could tell. If he builds another, he'll probably use a thick Rhino spray, maybe backed up with rubber strips in line with each floor member to fend off any unlike metal reactions..of which commenters have made him very aware by now. I think his walls integrity will stiffen up a fair bit depending on what he plans to sheath them with.
The one thing I wasn't clear on, was whether the floor holding flashing with the stainless steel bolts was also made out of aluminum? If it was a thick galvanized steel flashing, that'd be good to know. Otherwise I too think it's a weak spot.
Sure makes nice true joints and cuts. The man has skills. Wish him and the family only good things.👍
@@user-3tf67bk46u all the older trailers were built this way. Skirting boards were attached to the frame and the wall framing was attached to the skirt. RVs need to have sway because of exactly what you described. A completely rigid frame would fail quickly on the road.
I love watching videos like this. Thanks for taking the time to make this video and I'm looking forward to seeing more.
Looks great Scott. I look forward to the rest of the build. Great job.
Thanks 👍
thank you so much for taking us along your journey
Glad you enjoyed it
I like where your going with this. I'd use solid rim board on the roof edge and I'd have used half lap joinery...but that's me and I haven't got a project to build so you keep doing you looking forward to the progress
I bought a 69’ prowler at 16ft. Never meant to polish a “turd”, the frame and axel are pristine considering its age. I realized I bit off more than I could chew- kind of expected it - but didn’t realize how much I would have to do to keep it rolling! Your video helped- underbelly needs to be reinforced to protect from moisture! Videos are helping me plan for design as I expect to gut this sucker further (honestly, to its frame) and make it a traveling/camping beast! 🥰 thank you!
Oh wow....I'm really impressed. Things are looking really good with Eddie! I like the aluminum in the bottom idea. Great job Scott!
Thanks 👍
Apart from this being a great video it’s also impressive you were able to work out on the drive without folk bothering you like they do in my neighbourhood.
#fuckhoa
This is cool! I've been wanting to build on to my 5x10 trailer and make a small concession trailer. This video is probably as close as I'll get. Subbed.
Thanks.
Thank you fir this. I want my husband and I to do this one day soon.
Great job Scott, looks like you got a good plan going on there. Will be great seeing it come together. Thanks for sharing your video!
You bet
Great video and enjoyed it so much!!! First day of 2022 and college football was on tv. I came across your video on my cellphone and couldn't stop watching so I put the TV on mute to watch your amazing work.
Thanks so much!!
thanks for the inspiration i have an old pop up camper trailer that had been converted to flat cargo 6x10 single axel with plywood deck.. that going to utilize some of your ideas to make a tool trailer. great job. and again thank you 👌
Awesome looking build, great editing. Was fun to watch!
I really like the aluminum undercoating you did. Especially the flange you put along the edge. I wanted to ask if you have had any issues with the aluminum making contact with the steel causing chemical corrosion?
Great Trailer do you have a material list as it would be ideal as a mobile DJ booth cheers
I’ve always wondered why manufacturers don’t use a 3/4” composite floor. Kinda like synthetic decking. That way you wouldn’t have had to spend all that time screwing around with that aluminum. That would also prevent any water leak damage from inside the trailer as well. From water leaks. Just an idea I’ve always pondered..
They don’t build the floors that way simply to save on costs💪
They can't sell 'light weight' trailers built out of heavy duty materials
The only thing I would have done is paint the bottom of the aluminum also aluminum in contact with steel will corrode horribly the paint on the steal will offer some protection but with such a elaborate build it wouldn’t be worth it only lasting 10 years or so.
I'm redoing my attic and YT algorithms suggested this video for me to watch though it is not related to my current project. That said, the care you are putting into your build is impressive and I have a few questions.
1) Did you use regular decking or marine grade (I may have missed it if you stated in the video). If regular, why?
2) Did you consider tongue and groove plywood? In an attic situation, it really enhances support. There are also H-clips you can slip between plywood (w/o T&G) to help keep the panels inline, too. As you know, RV trailers are homes experiencing a constant earthquakes and just wonder if the T&G or H-clips would help at all in a DIY build such as this.
Awesome video! I have watched this at least three times. Thank you!
That was very thoughtful and probably works well on the floor. Your precision is admirable as well. As to the floor... I may have used pressure treated plywood and painted the underside with plastic roofing cement. I use it on ground contact posts a foot above and a foot below the contact point and it works great. It would be a LOT less work (and maybe less expensive as well). You could alleviate the aluminum sheeting underside altogether. Even with road debris you probably would only have to repaint the underside every three years or so.
what a great art project for the kiddos
I really like your thought process on the design and construction of the cabin. Lessons learned from #1 to make #2 much better is invaluable. Well done!
Awesome, thank you!
Nice build!! .......................@10:22 YOU NAILED IT!!!!
Very impressive definitely that’s the difference when you make it yourself you know that your using the best materials so it will last a long time. Great project!!!
Look in the tile section ( HD & Lowe's) They have brush on waterproofing for our tile showers. UPC approved and I always add fabric to reinforce. Might be applied and it paint able.
I'm enjoying the build! Have you thought about spraying the trailer frame with something like Fluid Film or Cosmoline to help protect it during the winter?
Glad you like the build. Haven’t looked at those options. Might have to 👍
VHB tape should work to secure the aluminum to the steel. There's a product called StarBoard, it’s used primarily in marine applications, it’s a UV stable high density polyethylene board. which would eliminate any possibility of any kind of rotting or decay. VHB tape that to your trailer frame and ain’t nothing going anywhere ever well until the frame rusts away. awesome craftsmanship awesome ideas awesome video. Keep it up.
The aluminum tub seems to be a good idea but on the other hand its like a tub if water got in. I'm kind of 50 50 on that. I'd love to see it taken apart after 5 years to see! Good work!!
If water gets in, then he didn't build the trailer properly.
So glad you sealed the plywood before installing- great use for clear shellac- anything really..
Absolutely
Great build video! Just started watching and will watch the rest. To help with moisture I would have also used HVAC foil tape on the upper seams of the aluminum. That would have helped in sealing out the elements a little more.
Incredible video and build. I was looking for this very video about 9 years ago.
Be conscious of having mixed metals exposed to each other. Having aluminum and steel back to back without an insulator of some sort (e.g. rubber grommet) you can get galvanic corrosion. Nice work, will be watching through your progress
Thank you for the information
That was my first thought as well. Mixing metals?
When we built the Fifth wheel, we did it in a 2 car garage with a 7' door. We assembled the floor, walls up to the point where they kick up for the part over the bed and had those sections fabricated. with interior paneling. When it was time, we rolled the assembled portion out and jacked it up and rolled the frame under. The kick up area was keyed to the rest of the sides and slipped together quickly. We had it all assembled outside in one day and got it covered for protection.
Stainless steel, aluminum, and steel together can cause galvanic corrosion..
Yeah chromium steel would be a much better choice if you're worried about corrosion.
When immersed in an electrolyte solution......
It will be perfect in his lifetime
A car has all three and it is 15 yrs old.
@@duskyman1 not sure what it would do if the winter road salts frequently got on the joints. Like in places it snows a lot. Salt is an electrolyte
Nice craftsmanship mate
Ever hear of condensation? you have built a place (sealed sheet metal) for condensed water, caused by temp difference between ext and int temperature, to collect from the inside and drip down into the aluminum pan with no drain.
Spary foam should fix this problem correct?
Its fine
At 7:42 min of the video you are applying a metal part. What's the name of that part exactly and how did you acquire it? It fits perfectly!
Thanks for the video, great stuff to watch construction!
Did you consider using phenolic ply, the type with a bonded pvc coating? Much easier then the ali sheet?
👍
No I didn't. Not actually familiar with it.
Pretty cool project im thinking about building one myself
Man after my own heart. Well done!
Perfect exactly what I'm hoping to build. Need to maximize the floor space around the wheels. Great job bud☮️🙏😎
Thanks 👍
Very cool, looks durable.
Great video and the framing looks perfect.
VART built one @10 years ago for moving. Using a 20’ flatbed. Drive it cross country for moving. Using factory stake pockets. Yours is a lot more finished. His was enclosed moving.
Excellent craftsmanship
Nifty. Looked like a fun build.
Good day Eddie will you be making more Trailers?
Very nice. Real talent at work!
Thank you! Cheers!
This looks fantastic! What os the gustiment dry weight when everything is built?
really cool video. it looks like the old Eddie was from a rotted pop up. i have an old pop up trailer thats been gutted. i want to build a solar system bank inside of an enclosed trailer. ill probably use the popup to build that out. should be a bit challenging. glad to see videos like this. it helps me to know what to be doing better.
Love how you did the floors. How strong I’d the metal flange on the trailer edges for mounting the walls & roof? Does it shift when in motion?
Wow! Looks awesome brother !!!!
Looking good! Eddie is coming along. Well done my friend.
Thanks 👍 Excited to finally get the framing up.
Great job. I think I would anchor the walls and floor to the frame using some carriage bolts. Construction adhesive is great but I wouldn’t trust it alone to keep the house on the frame.
Wow! wow! wow! Thank you or sharing this beautiful work!!! 3 Thumbs ups!
Thank you very much!
Much more surprised at this point in the build that there is not at least a few bolting points into the deck. But I guess weight of later parts will assist.
You are such a stud! Great engineering and you do it all on your own! Just amazing.
Nice! We too were concerned about plywood, we're working on our build now and went with ACM, it proved to be a bit challenging to work with but hopefully will last longer than plywood.
Very nice job I am extremely impressed I have bought and fixed lots of 1950s and the 60s camp trailers and they are built very chintzy this trailer you are building you can take it to Moab and run the courses very good job
Looks good I thought about this I was going to use commercial wall studs. The galvanized ones.
What an impressive project! If I follow your video, the entire frame on top of aluminum sheet is adhered to the metal frame below by the construction adhesives. Is that correct?
Now this is what I'm dying to see
I'm amazed how many DIY trailer builds I've watched where the wood has not had some sort of waterproofing, for wood that will no be seen again until it rots. I'm no metal expert but stainless steel and aluminum don't mix without a barrier in between. Sometimes cheap is expensive. Awespme trailer frame. Best of luck on your build.