Great project man, just 2 points I thought you need to attend to; 1. The water bottle will eventually pull those screws holding it as it's wood, 2. The door hinges being outside are a big security risk unless your door locks on all sides.
It may be a security risk but, a thief will get in regardless if your hinges are on the outside or the inside. If they want something inside, they will get to it. Sucks but, that's how it is. :(
Oh man, I don't want to bash on this because it's a cool project but I have a lot of concerns here. The biggest and only one I'll bring up is that it was swaying during the test drive. Trailer sway is extremely dangerous and will cause a major accident that could be fatal. To correct Trailer sway, you need more weight in front of the axle than behind it. This build has all the weight in the kitchen area and almost no tongue weight.
I'll 3rd this respectfully. Maybe a simple solution: pick the whole box up off the trailer frame and flip it 180°. A few lighting changes but the tongue weight is solved. And with the hatch opened I could vision the back of the truck (or suv) as an an addition to the "kitchen/prep" area.
This guy said he was going to sell it on, which is concerning. I wouldn't hold back critiques on people looking to sell products, if it was just for him it would be different.
I totally agree. I built my mobile detailing trailer like this first and oh my God! When I went into the first turn, I thought I was done for. See, alot do not account for how heavy just the water tanks are. Just moving that outside water tank forward of the axle will help as well.
Nice build. I am sure you will enjoy it. I work at a trailer dealership, so I see problems on trailers that others do not. First the bolt together frame kits are fine provided you do not overload them. You seem to be in good shape there. I would advise you to check all bolts that are accessible for proper torque and security. They often work loose after a few trips. Once the frame has some miles on it this will get better and less frequent. Also your choice to use a spacer on the trailer wheel in our experience has been problematic. We will never use them at the shop rather find a wheel with correct offset. They do effect balance and as in your case wheel studs are too short for full thread engagement of the lug nut itself. This is a recipe for lugs nuts that will loosen and cause damage the wheel, studs and possibly loss of the wheel while rolling down the road. I don't mean to be a downer as you should be proud of your build, but I wanted to share my concerns with you. Safe Travels.
A tip for cutting pieces the same. Cut the first one with a saw, but then screw or clamp it to the next panel and use a router with a flush-trim bit. The cut one is now your template and the other will be exact when done.
Nice job. looks great. FYI: at around 25min add the new tyres. You added spacer behind wheel, when you tight up wheel nuts no threads came thru. Thats big no-no, min 3 treads thru nut...
@@buildersblueprint The reason you want to have threads protruding through the nuts is so you can see at a glance if any of the nuts have loosened. This is a standard engineering practice.
wow i am not mechanic or any of this good worker builder but pointing it out now i notice and yes that could be a big no no long drive might gets loose
I used to work for Fleetwood Motor Homes back in the early 90s, and I've probably built at least 3000 of these things. A couple tips for others wanting to build their own trailer. First, the subfloor needs to be HEAVILY treated. A couple of coats of paint won't do it, unless you only drive on dry roads in dry conditions, like in the Sahara desert. Especially since it can't be replaced without completely destroying the trailer. The wood should be marine grade, treated with a sealer, and then undercoated. It will see the same conditions as the underside of your car, so it should be built to withstand them too. Insulation in the ceiling and walls should fill the entire cavity, don't leave air gaps. The insulation also provides structural rigidity. A tree branch falling onto that 1/4" roof, even with fiberglass over it, will punch holes with an air gap underneath, whereas the insulation would help cushion the blow with a completely filled cavity. If you can't fit sheet insulation in the gap, then use spray foam and trim it down with something like a bow saw (used for trimming trees and shrubs). Also, rather than liquid nailing the subfloor to the frame, it should be suspended on top of thick rubber strips and bolted down. That will completely insulate the box from the frame rigidity and allow it to float, which will reduce shock stress on the structure. Otherwise, this looks like a great project. I couldn't build something like this without keeping it, lol.
Wow, thank you for all the advice. It’s seriously means a lot. If we ever build another one we will definitely use some of these tips to improve the quality of our belts. Also, thank you for taking the time out of your day to watch your videos. Have a blessed day. ✌️
I've seen hundreds of these videos and wonder the same thing about the sub floor not being protected. He did the whole thing in rigid coating but not the bottom. I was thinking of glassing it in and then coating it like he did.
@@buildersblueprint If you are genuinely grateful, why not thank the other guy who made a long list of issues to his credit. You owe some thanks to Mrfochs comment above. And please don't use religious sayings to people you don't know. Why should anyone's day be 'blessed'? Save that for your church friends.
I started building TDs in 1994. We changed the design for increased strength. We put the base/floor on top of 2 2x3s and glued & screwed into them from the top. Then when we attached the walls we screwed into the 2x3s. This offset loses a little inside height, but strengthens the structure by 1000%, lol. Consider it next time. Thanks for the video and great job. Looks like you had fun and that is what it is all about.
Looks great especially for a DIY project. I'm sure without a doubt that you will inspire so many others to do this or any other project they may want to accomplish. Real quick.... I'm sponsored by Raptorliner for my truck and car audio project. I've been through all their training. I know it's very hard, but you never want to spray Raptorliner in intense direct sun. I will cause tiger striping or blotching. This is because the heat is drying it faster you can spray it. So when you pause, you have a dry area and now a wet area drying at different speeds. An inflatable paint booth from Vevor is a lifesaver!!! It can also be used for other projects like wood working or fiberglassing to help to contain the dust and also give it shade. When you're done, it's way easier to store than pop up canopies. You can easily use this and give your camper a light even final coat in the shade of the booth. Please!!!! Don't take this as being negative!!! I only know how to do this simply because I've done this same thing!!! I still can't believe you built this from basically a trailer kit!!! Great job once again!!!
Of all the hundreds of these videos i have watched this is still one of the best-quality builds i've seen. Very big fan of how you've seperated the lead-acid batteries from the living area of the camper.
This is a beautiful trailer. Thank you for taking the time to share your build. You have definitely inspired me, so definitely thank you for that. I would very much like to see some videos of your build in action. Just a simple review after using it with both pros and cons with things that worked and things that didn't. Also if there is anything you would change or do definitely if given the opportunity to build it again. I really think that would be extremely beneficial to anyone looking to follow in your footsteps. Again, thank you for allowing me to enjoy and learn from your build. Much appreciation and respect 🙏 🫡.
I love your build and the tips I've learned watching this. The only thing I questioned was adding the jacks to the trailer. Functionally, it is a great solution. However, jacks of this type are usually made from metal that oxidizes and corrodes very easily, so greasing the screw and hinge points will be a constant maintenance need. But admittedly, this is my engineer & acft mechanic side of me - as usual - over thinking things. Still a great build and thank you for posting this with awesome video and narration!
I normally would not comment with so many criticisms but you are selling this camper to someone and as such, there is a responsibility to the potential buyer to be aware of some MAJOR issues with this project. While the end result looks nice for your B Roll footage, there were so many issues watching this video that the end result is more like an HGTV "renovation" than an actual, functional camper. - As others have commented, the all-black and effectively no insulation means that this thing will BAKE in even slightly warm weather - The electrical terminals should really have covers protecting the metal terminals from accidental touches since you are talking about enough current to injure someone - The roof trusses were attached with pocket holes and have no supporting structure along the side walls - The rear tailgate hinge is fully exposed and the entire door opening is without a gasket or ever rubber trimming (the bottom of the hatch is exposed plywood in multiple scenes) - All walls are a sandwich of 1/8" plywood, 1/2" rigid insulation, and 1/4" plywood with no vertical studs or structure. Vibrations and flexing from road use will tear this apart - The doors appeared to have no gaskets or weatherproofing and hinge screws are exposed on the exterior making it VERY easy to remove the door and break into the trailer - The subfloor was just painted plywood. This will have water damage in less than one season - Joints were filled with epoxy and sawdust filler (good technique) but then not reinforced with fiberglass taping - rigid joints on a trailer built this poorly will crack and split - Using 12" glass weave without overlapping and extending past/around the edge means that there is no continual structure or strength around corners - again leading to cracks - AC/Heat unit holes appeared to just be punched through the exterior without any gaskets, sealing, or other means of preventing rot and water egress - Conditioned interior space but no moisture barrier means condensation inside the walls or on the surfaces (which as pointed out are not very waterproof) - All finished surfaces are painted plywood that appeared to have major tear out from being cut with a table saw and jigsaw with incorrect blades for material Lastly, you focus a lot on the LiTime products and feature them heavily in this video as well as a link to their products in the description, but you never disclose in the video if you were compensated for or given the products or have a standing partnership with the company (I assume you do seeing as you have an affiliate link with a discount). Similar issue with the EcoFlow AC/Heater. This is an FCC violation and could get you in a bunch of trouble. Your channel has enough subscribers and videos at this point that you should be aware of the laws behind proper disclosure for advertisement and sponsorship programming.
With most of the weight in the back of the tiny camper you must make sure the weight on the towe hook will be at least 60 kilogram otherwize driving at higher speeds will make the camper sway out of control. Black coating on the outside will turn the inside very hot when the sun shines brightly in summer. I second the remark made earlier about the enclosure of moisture in the plywood and the subsequent rot that will appear after a fwe years. But having written all that ...... very nice job !!!
if you watch when he was driving it the camper was already slightly swaying due to the weight. was wondering if anyone else was thinking the same as me on that
What an excellent job you did, I'd have painted it white cos the black will heat up the box like an oven, covering wires with insulation reduces the current capacity by 50%, better to have used flexible conduits to run the cables in
No to outright say you are wrong, I am curious as to what code you are referring to that derates its cabling to 50%. The ambient temp from NEC Table 310.15(B)(16) allows up to 167 degree F. He isn't even bundling cables so I don't see and issue there either. In homes all across America there is cable being run thru insulated space within attics and walls. There are also vehicles/trailers built just as he has done that are regularly sold to customers. I like to learn so please tell me if I am wrong from my understanding of the NEC.
Exellent build! A really nice little camper with all you need for a mini vacation in the hills, good job! One question thou: wouldn´t it be easier to paint it light colour and not need an A/C, then painting it black and need an A/C (higher cost, dry ac air, more stuff that can break etc.)..?
A tip for trailer tires that saved my ass on multiple occasions: use the same wheels as you vehicle. It gives you so much more flexibility. If something happens to a vehicle tire you can use the trailer tire and com back for it with a proper repair…the spares on the trailer, etc.
@@pizzamangametime9773 considering this video is about building a trailer from the ground up, this would be something you account for during construction…..it’s why I mentioned it
@@Menuki I'm pretty sure this is a harbor freight trailer based off of the original wheels and the design of the frame or at least something similar to a harbor freight trailer the frame and tongue are very similar
This is an excellent idea buy if you have factory 17 to 20 inch wheels this can be SO expensive. Not just for the wheels themselves but for the entire setup. This is why 90% of the campers like this come with 15 inch wheels. Even used, 2 tires and wheels alone could easily cost $2k to simply match. And even then, what if you plan to possibly tow with 2 different vehicles?
I like many of the things you decided to incorporate in your build... thanks for sharing! With black as your choice of color, you will certainly NEED to have that AC, as you've created a solar oven on wheels. I've never understood some folks preference for black, as they think it's "cool" when it's actually "hot as hell". Also, it looks like your trailer is tail-heavy, which is why the trailer "wags" in clip of you towing the trailer @26:17 (it's really noticeable when you run the video a 2X) . This is dangerous and can cause a wreck. One solution in your case would be to move the axle back toward the rear, or ALWAYS to load a bunch of gear in front to counter-balance the heavy tail. Be safe out there!
You may be selling it but you sure built it with a lot of care. Mad props for your assistant... You guys are experts ! I envy your working relationship
Thanks this comment means a lot to us although we’re definitely not perfect but we try really hard to work together and have fun. Thanks for watching and God bless.
From experience I'll give you a tip. Those fenders will fall off unless you loctite the screws holding them on. Loctite and lock washers. The vibration will loosen those screws and goodbye fenders. Lost mine up in Canada on crappy logging roads.
Pretty nice work. For better towing, I would've installed the batteries, inverter and other electrical components on the tongue, if possible. Too much weight astern of the axle can be prone to bad oscillations.
Thanks Homie I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to watch our videos and I totally agree if I ever do this again I’m gonna put the entire batteries system in the front to help distribute weight.
I thought the same thing, but if he puts a storage rack on the tongue at the front he can probably offset a lot of the dry weight of the batteries and fridge/cooler. I wouldn't load too much else in the rear though. Load the bed of the truck first.
Absolutely wonderful and an inspiration!! I converted a Suziki Super Carry into a micro camper. Not as sophisticated as yours, but so many things on your video look very, very familiar! Thank you!! LOve from the UK XX
Great build: the only thing I would change is in applying the fiberglass cloth? I would’ve started at the bottom working the way up overlapping & shingling it with a final corner application at the top.
Also why didnt he just finish the entire frame with back door first before applying it. I feel like that added another 3 days on when he couldve waited and done everything at once with the fiberglass ☹️
@@suhtangwong considering my dad builds and renovates all tbe time. I just wanted to point out how it could be made faster for the person building it. It wasnt meant as a diss. Just more so like hey heres some good advice to cut back a day or two of curing.
The cleats you used to hold the main side walls are an issue because if water does get in it will tend to drip down and then pool. Since the cleat is pressure treated, it will be okay but the plywood will absorb the moisture and wick the water up and then delaminate and decompose very quickly. If not using marine grade plywood you have to build these things with water shedding in mind as an EQUALLY important factor with the trailer being the most important. Water will find a way in. Always.
A very interesting build for sure. I was concerned from the beginning with the selection of trailer. I have one of those upon which we haul our kayaks and I know it is rated for about 1100 pounds. Perhaps the change in wheels and tires helped bring that up some, but wood weighs more than it looks. The 5x8 version of the trailer is rated for 1700 pounds and only costs $30 more so it might make a better starting point. I think you two did a great job in thinking this thing out as well as executing with great efficiency. I agree with other posters below that the weight aft of the axle is a concern, especially at speed. Overall a great build!
Yes. Raptor is so easy to mix to make gray. You just simply add black and white together until you get the right mix. No need for an automotive base color. Just going to a medium gray from the black will make a HUGE difference. Plus, a final coat of the gray will easily cover the tiger striping that the black only enhances.
tip for the flooring, buy some henry floor adhesive. which one you buy is up to you, there are a ton that will get the job done. its much easier tha trying to spread construction glue, just grab a trowel and spread
Nice build. You designed and built it very well. The jacks were a great idea for stability. The only thing I would have done different would have been more roof insulation and used a white roof coat on top of the black. 1500 lbs is a decent weight. Figure another 2-3 hundred when it's finished and loaded.
I don’t know. I feel bad for whoever buys this. Yes it looks great but there are some questionable, major concerns. That subfloor will rot in one year unless you never use/tow it in the rain. Also the roof looks to be supported by pocket screws, which does not provide sufficient structure in my opinion.
Are you kidding? have you seen how they build new campers these days? His construction is light years ahead of what camper manufactures are doing. I'd honest trust his build over my camper.. which I've had to repair numerous times.
@@philbarnes5731 liquid nails makes several products not just an interior glue example they make construction adhesive, roofing sealant, subfloor glue and more
Wow, that's some heavy duty electrics. I wonder what you could run in a little camper that would need such power. Also, two, big batteries in the rear might make your trailer bounce off your ball. I sure hope you cross your chains and carry alot of gear up front. Good luck and thanks for posting.
Nice build! Black be good in winter for attracting/absorbing the heat of the sun, (not so much in the summer, but Guess could always paint over it white to reflect sun if ends up being a bit too hot in summer?) Looks good though! Nice job 👍
Procrastinating! Man that should be the last word you could be saying about you. I am amazed how much work you been putting into it. What a great motivation to watch you guys work May God Bless you even more.
your biggest mistake was not replacing the stinger with a heavier straight supported bar that is welded on, the factory stinger on the front of those is easily warped junk usually and in upgrading you can allow it to swap under your bumper for tight turns and to have a properly supported square beam jack that is removable or folds out of the way another thing to consider is getting rid of the U bar axle they give you in those kits as they bend easily if you hit a rock making the cheap rims included pop off on the road if you fail to notice it, a custom weld it yourself 5 lug hub kit and a nice square pipe that fits will allow bigger tires and better stability saying this because i recently had to upgrade a stinger on parents trailer as well as axle and tires as it made moving it a chore and the lack of ground clearance also made it easy to damage, i also ended up removing most bolts and welding the parts together plus added more floor supports to allow for better weight distribution as the steel floor was bending inwards from the 4 small support beams they gave it when it would have been solid with 6, also added a winch to reduce the amount of work needed to load it but you don't really need that on a camper, with the upgrades added i could move it by hand and no longer feel sore after moving the stinger around to load or park it as the added jack made things far easier also when i was building a mobile utility shed trailer i found that using bolted on aluminum or welded on steel framing with 1" square pipe with washer riveted aluminum sheeting made a far lighter and stronger frame than wood, the solid foam insulation is a good choice though as despite the ratings given it doesn't let air pass freely so it's actually cooler/warmer that fiberglass which rodents/bugs also like to nest in, plus it makes wiring easier speaking of wiring if you use pvc conduit for everything and set up boxes on each end that are sealed you can wire the whole trailer and any goodies you wanted, propane, lights, stove solar and all others and still have room for a bed and powered roof vent to help with heat and cooking fumes, to solve the bathroom issue weld a trailer hitch receiver to the back and make an attachment to hold a toilet seat frame over a bucket with lid, you may wanna store a 50 gallon water tank under the floor but sewage should be dumped asap on small units also if your roof is made strong like the walls you can do all sorts of neat stuff up there from storage to power generation which can also go from the trailer plug back to the truck if using a 7 way round, just remember to use a charge controller mppt type and same batteries as your truck if sharing draw for charging, could probly fit a 400W panel up there or 3x 100w panels if done carefully
Hi I just watched your video about the micro camper you built you don't give yourself enough credit you did a beautiful job and so flawless I just purchased a used trailer frame I think close to the same size as yours brother I have no idea how to even start and after watching what you did I know now iam never going to be able to do it you should be very proud of yourself you can build anything bro. I look forward to watching more of your work. Great job I wish I knew what you know .Dean from catskill new York
Looks good only criticism I have is maybe next time for the connections use weatherproof shrink wrap connectors instead of the hardware store ones on things like your fuse panels etc, also did you add seals to the side doors around them? I couldn't tell so just wondering. All in all looks like a great build though you should be super proud of yourself.
nice build only thing i see wrong is how flat roof is for snow and that sitting on it, wish had skill to make something like that. great work also cant see key holes in locks , so can any one open the doors?
My truck camper has a flat roof that is something like 2m x 5.5m and snow has never been a problem. Because the framing is solid it is possible to walk on top to clean off the leaf crud, tree resin and bird crap that builds up. A cordless jet wash does it in a few minutes.
Dude, the bumps on the road will bust the few pieces of 2x4 holding this camper to the deck. I encourage you to apply some aluminum L-angle to the inside walls and floor to make sure you don't loose it just by hitting a couple of potholes. On an enclosed cargo trailer the vertical studs are made of metal and welded to the deck frame. A few 2X4's aren't gonna cut it.
The reason your trailer lights are flashing is cause well one you bought like the cheapest lights possible but you put a lot of weight in the rear of your camper and ground the lights through the ball so when ever the trailer bounces off the ball they lose ground. Oh also dont use fiberglass strips thats why you have those lines in your paint use a cloth that covers the whole thing for no seams
As my only comment is the lapel mic is designed for discretion with only a little fluff in sight clamped to the cuff of a shirt :) :) this is really cool, I love it!! Really well built and good tasteful interior with all the home stuff, without the cheap caravan interior as standard commercially. I think that's one and a half tons in the end? I wonder what equilibrium is between weight and security in the wind; if carbon chasis and foam ply would be fine with interior like bedding and kitchenette weight holding it down :o I've always wanted to build my own
Thank you I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to watch your videos. We have already started on the next project and will be posting it in the next week or so. 🙌🙌
Very nice job documenting the build, and I love the angular look. It's like a Chuck Norris version of a teardrop. I'm considering a foamy sealed and strengthened with landscape fabric / resin using some of your design features. Great job!
Heads up. Don't put all the stubbies on the same side. The bottom only wood insulation and sub floor all have the tail ends on the same side. I'd recommend flipping the shorty on the insulation.
You have really a lot of skills in building different stuff and all went out very wellHope yo can get this one sold so you can help more homeless people. That is an GREAT idea and I hope this inspire more people to do the same.
Thank you I really appreciate you watching and supporting our channel. We do plan on doing another homeless camper series in the summertime and have already started working on the next project. Thanks for watching and God bless.❤️❤️
I enjoyed watching this build, very neatly done. I'd suggest adding a metal mesh gaurd below the subfloor to give it additional durability for long travels & for dirt road protection. Also, I may have missed something, but what's the point of a door that locks when the hinges are exposed & someone could easily get in with a drill?
What a great project and buildout. I liked the use of the scissor jacks and the upsizing of the wheels/tires. Thanks for the video . A couple questions: At 24:52 when swapping the wheels/tires it looks like the bare wood floor can be seen. Is this a reason for concern and if so, how should it best be addressed? With your doors did you use any type of weatherstripping to prevent water intrusion? And, finally, with the door hinges is there a concealed hinge that would also work to prevent the screws from being exposed and subject to tampering?
@beerrunbus I wish man...being homeless after my house burned down last year no income waiting for my disability to hopefully be approved for my shoulder replacement and mental health issues...
@@buildersblueprint also remember I emailed u about the bike trailer as I don't have a license and wouldn't be able to tow this trailer unless I had it parked somewhere...
Simply amazing, I am beyond impressed with what you have done, you should sell plans for this camper build or start a company building them. The one you built is great for highway and light off road, you could build a different version for extreme off road and make a killing!
Wow, thank you this comment means a lot. We plan on making many other projects like this, and are currently in the process of making an epoxy resin lava desk gaming set up
Love the build! One thing sparked my interest the weight being towed shouldn’t it be heavier in the front of the camper? Doing so would allow you to correct a swerve easier more weight in the rear it could throw you off the road
Yes, @26:18 you can actually see the trailer slightly oscillating even when driving in a straight line. That's why the gas/battery locker is usually mounted on the hitch...
Probably more of a good weather camper i guess. Wouldnt trust it in the rain. You really need to properly seal those doors. Water will easily get in. Also the perpendicular sleeping mattress is a joke, right? How long is it across? Might fit a small child like that. I do like the electrical system and the use of car jacks for leveling, thats smart.
We were not able to add weather seal gaskets because they hadn’t came in the mail yet, but we have already installed them on all the doors and the mattress is a tri folding mattress so it folds out to a queen size bed. I do appreciate you watching and hope to see you in the comment section soon. 🙌
I like the idea of increasing the size and speed rating of the tires, however, you should never use a spacer without installing longer lug studs. "Every stud or bolt must be long enough to thread a length at least equal to the stud or bolt diameter. For example, a 1/2” thread diameter must thread into the lug nut at least 1/2”. NHTSA. The reason for the longer studs is to allow the lug nuts to fully engage with the lug studs on all the threads of the lug nuts. Not allowing full engagement WILL put excessive stress on the threads of the lug studs which will cause thread fracturing. Additionally, the spacer as installed is not centered on the hub and thus will cause the balance problems regardless of the balance of the tire/rim assembly. Otherwise, excellent build.
Thanks Joseph I really appreciate you watching. I am just about finished up with another tiny home build and will be posting the full process this weekend. 🙌
For the 400 amp hour system you need minimum of a 80 amp solar charger . Also should do a 30 amp.service with transfer switch that way you can run off shore power or a generator
1st, I want you to know I gave you a thumbs up. 👍👍👍 The reason was I like your can- do attitude. I also like how created the camper. Good job and nice work 👍. You also have a great way of how you did the job. 😅😊
@Odins-Dad is correct. The camper was swaying and that can be fatal at highway speeds. You need to correct the weight problem by adding weight to the front of the trailer in front of the wheels or on the tongue. {possibly propane tanks and a storage box. Move the water tank to the front as well.)
Nice job, I do wonder with most of these build why people don’t use the aerodynamics of the triangle shaped front that’s holding the hitch. It offers extra space and adds to the aerodynamics of the trailer. Also an integrated drip rail catching any rainwater if the kitchen roof is upright would have been nice, but overall a good build, a nice quality build camper/ caravan.
I have issues with using More than 2 hinges. Unless the alignment is within the wiggle tolerance of the hinges, you end up putting tremendous forces on your mounting screws through leverage. Better to use 2 sturdy hinges and ensure the door and frame is rigid.
Thank you I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to watch our videos. We’ve already started on the next, and will be posting it very soon. 🙌
Looks great! How has the fiberglass and rapture liner held up? Any leaks with the hurricane hinge? These are things I see most camper builders complain about.....
A nice team effort. I am sure it was a learning experience and as you use it, you will learn more. Don’t let the “know-it all” boo-birds discourage you.
I don't know if Li Time comes with ferrull connections or if you added them, but good job! So much better in terms of safety an positive connections. I use them for all my electrical projects such as my 3D printer farm.
Great project man, just 2 points I thought you need to attend to; 1. The water bottle will eventually pull those screws holding it as it's wood, 2. The door hinges being outside are a big security risk unless your door locks on all sides.
Yes, the water bottle should be on the inside as part of the kitchen. This would make it easier to refill.
It may be a security risk but, a thief will get in regardless if your hinges are on the outside or the inside. If they want something inside, they will get to it. Sucks but, that's how it is.
:(
I would think anyone willing to remove a door hinge to break in would probably be willing to cut a hole or break a window as well.
Oh man, I don't want to bash on this because it's a cool project but I have a lot of concerns here. The biggest and only one I'll bring up is that it was swaying during the test drive. Trailer sway is extremely dangerous and will cause a major accident that could be fatal. To correct Trailer sway, you need more weight in front of the axle than behind it. This build has all the weight in the kitchen area and almost no tongue weight.
I guess I should read a few comments before posting - saw the same thing - thanks for letting him know.
I'll 3rd this respectfully.
Maybe a simple solution: pick the whole box up off the trailer frame and flip it 180°. A few lighting changes but the tongue weight is solved. And with the hatch opened I could vision the back of the truck (or suv) as an an addition to the "kitchen/prep" area.
This guy said he was going to sell it on, which is concerning. I wouldn't hold back critiques on people looking to sell products, if it was just for him it would be different.
Where is bed !!!!!!!
I totally agree. I built my mobile detailing trailer like this first and oh my God! When I went into the first turn, I thought I was done for.
See, alot do not account for how heavy just the water tanks are. Just moving that outside water tank forward of the axle will help as well.
Nice build. I am sure you will enjoy it. I work at a trailer dealership, so I see problems on trailers that others do not. First the bolt together frame kits are fine provided you do not overload them. You seem to be in good shape there. I would advise you to check all bolts that are accessible for proper torque and security. They often work loose after a few trips. Once the frame has some miles on it this will get better and less frequent. Also your choice to use a spacer on the trailer wheel in our experience has been problematic. We will never use them at the shop rather find a wheel with correct offset. They do effect balance and as in your case wheel studs are too short for full thread engagement of the lug nut itself. This is a recipe for lugs nuts that will loosen and cause damage the wheel, studs and possibly loss of the wheel while rolling down the road. I don't mean to be a downer as you should be proud of your build, but I wanted to share my concerns with you. Safe Travels.
Very nicely said. Good advice.
A tip for cutting pieces the same. Cut the first one with a saw, but then screw or clamp it to the next panel and use a router with a flush-trim bit. The cut one is now your template and the other will be exact when done.
ua-cam.com/video/enW2pabgwYw/v-deo.html
That’s actually a great idea ill definitely try that next time
awesome tip!
This is the way!
Nice job. looks great.
FYI: at around 25min add the new tyres. You added spacer behind wheel, when you tight up wheel nuts no threads came thru. Thats big no-no, min 3 treads thru nut...
Thank you this is interesting information. I will take a look at them today and see how many threads are popping through. Thanks again. 🙌
@@buildersblueprint The reason you want to have threads protruding through the nuts is so you can see at a glance if any of the nuts have loosened. This is a standard engineering practice.
wow i am not mechanic or any of this good worker builder but pointing it out now i notice and yes that could be a big no no long drive might gets loose
I used to work for Fleetwood Motor Homes back in the early 90s, and I've probably built at least 3000 of these things.
A couple tips for others wanting to build their own trailer.
First, the subfloor needs to be HEAVILY treated. A couple of coats of paint won't do it, unless you only drive on dry roads in dry conditions, like in the Sahara desert.
Especially since it can't be replaced without completely destroying the trailer.
The wood should be marine grade, treated with a sealer, and then undercoated. It will see the same conditions as the underside of your car, so it should be built to withstand them too.
Insulation in the ceiling and walls should fill the entire cavity, don't leave air gaps.
The insulation also provides structural rigidity. A tree branch falling onto that 1/4" roof, even with fiberglass over it, will punch holes with an air gap underneath, whereas the insulation would help cushion the blow with a completely filled cavity.
If you can't fit sheet insulation in the gap, then use spray foam and trim it down with something like a bow saw (used for trimming trees and shrubs).
Also, rather than liquid nailing the subfloor to the frame, it should be suspended on top of thick rubber strips and bolted down.
That will completely insulate the box from the frame rigidity and allow it to float, which will reduce shock stress on the structure.
Otherwise, this looks like a great project. I couldn't build something like this without keeping it, lol.
Wow, thank you for all the advice. It’s seriously means a lot. If we ever build another one we will definitely use some of these tips to improve the quality of our belts. Also, thank you for taking the time out of your day to watch your videos. Have a blessed day. ✌️
Yeah that plywood gunna rot
Insulation works best with an air gap, doesn't it?
I've seen hundreds of these videos and wonder the same thing about the sub floor not being protected. He did the whole thing in rigid coating but not the bottom. I was thinking of glassing it in and then coating it like he did.
@@buildersblueprint If you are genuinely grateful, why not thank the other guy who made a long list of issues to his credit. You owe some thanks to Mrfochs comment above. And please don't use religious sayings to people you don't know. Why should anyone's day be 'blessed'? Save that for your church friends.
I started building TDs in 1994. We changed the design for increased strength. We put the base/floor on top of 2 2x3s and glued & screwed into them from the top. Then when we attached the walls we screwed into the 2x3s. This offset loses a little inside height, but strengthens the structure by 1000%, lol. Consider it next time. Thanks for the video and great job. Looks like you had fun and that is what it is all about.
Looks great especially for a DIY project. I'm sure without a doubt that you will inspire so many others to do this or any other project they may want to accomplish.
Real quick....
I'm sponsored by Raptorliner for my truck and car audio project. I've been through all their training. I know it's very hard, but you never want to spray Raptorliner in intense direct sun. I will cause tiger striping or blotching. This is because the heat is drying it faster you can spray it. So when you pause, you have a dry area and now a wet area drying at different speeds.
An inflatable paint booth from Vevor is a lifesaver!!! It can also be used for other projects like wood working or fiberglassing to help to contain the dust and also give it shade. When you're done, it's way easier to store than pop up canopies.
You can easily use this and give your camper a light even final coat in the shade of the booth.
Please!!!! Don't take this as being negative!!! I only know how to do this simply because I've done this same thing!!!
I still can't believe you built this from basically a trailer kit!!!
Great job once again!!!
Of all the hundreds of these videos i have watched this is still one of the best-quality builds i've seen.
Very big fan of how you've seperated the lead-acid batteries from the living area of the camper.
Wow thanks I really appreciate this comment. Once we are finished with the tiny home we are building another one ❤️
This is a beautiful trailer. Thank you for taking the time to share your build. You have definitely inspired me, so definitely thank you for that. I would very much like to see some videos of your build in action. Just a simple review after using it with both pros and cons with things that worked and things that didn't. Also if there is anything you would change or do definitely if given the opportunity to build it again. I really think that would be extremely beneficial to anyone looking to follow in your footsteps. Again, thank you for allowing me to enjoy and learn from your build. Much appreciation and respect 🙏 🫡.
I love your build and the tips I've learned watching this. The only thing I questioned was adding the jacks to the trailer. Functionally, it is a great solution. However, jacks of this type are usually made from metal that oxidizes and corrodes very easily, so greasing the screw and hinge points will be a constant maintenance need. But admittedly, this is my engineer & acft mechanic side of me - as usual - over thinking things. Still a great build and thank you for posting this with awesome video and narration!
I normally would not comment with so many criticisms but you are selling this camper to someone and as such, there is a responsibility to the potential buyer to be aware of some MAJOR issues with this project. While the end result looks nice for your B Roll footage, there were so many issues watching this video that the end result is more like an HGTV "renovation" than an actual, functional camper.
- As others have commented, the all-black and effectively no insulation means that this thing will BAKE in even slightly warm weather
- The electrical terminals should really have covers protecting the metal terminals from accidental touches since you are talking about enough current to injure someone
- The roof trusses were attached with pocket holes and have no supporting structure along the side walls
- The rear tailgate hinge is fully exposed and the entire door opening is without a gasket or ever rubber trimming (the bottom of the hatch is exposed plywood in multiple scenes)
- All walls are a sandwich of 1/8" plywood, 1/2" rigid insulation, and 1/4" plywood with no vertical studs or structure. Vibrations and flexing from road use will tear this apart
- The doors appeared to have no gaskets or weatherproofing and hinge screws are exposed on the exterior making it VERY easy to remove the door and break into the trailer
- The subfloor was just painted plywood. This will have water damage in less than one season
- Joints were filled with epoxy and sawdust filler (good technique) but then not reinforced with fiberglass taping - rigid joints on a trailer built this poorly will crack and split
- Using 12" glass weave without overlapping and extending past/around the edge means that there is no continual structure or strength around corners - again leading to cracks
- AC/Heat unit holes appeared to just be punched through the exterior without any gaskets, sealing, or other means of preventing rot and water egress
- Conditioned interior space but no moisture barrier means condensation inside the walls or on the surfaces (which as pointed out are not very waterproof)
- All finished surfaces are painted plywood that appeared to have major tear out from being cut with a table saw and jigsaw with incorrect blades for material
Lastly, you focus a lot on the LiTime products and feature them heavily in this video as well as a link to their products in the description, but you never disclose in the video if you were compensated for or given the products or have a standing partnership with the company (I assume you do seeing as you have an affiliate link with a discount). Similar issue with the EcoFlow AC/Heater. This is an FCC violation and could get you in a bunch of trouble. Your channel has enough subscribers and videos at this point that you should be aware of the laws behind proper disclosure for advertisement and sponsorship programming.
I can't believe this isn't the top comment. Seeing the walls go up made me come to the comments; it's a danger to the public.
Drag him sis
I was wondering about the black paint.most of these are a light color to reflect the sun. cheaply built and won't last long.
Excellent and very relevant points. Thank you for your detailed list. Very educational and a public service.
With most of the weight in the back of the tiny camper you must make sure the weight on the towe hook will be at least 60 kilogram otherwize driving at higher speeds will make the camper sway out of control. Black coating on the outside will turn the inside very hot when the sun shines brightly in summer. I second the remark made earlier about the enclosure of moisture in the plywood and the subsequent rot that will appear after a fwe years. But having written all that ...... very nice job !!!
if you watch when he was driving it the camper was already slightly swaying due to the weight. was wondering if anyone else was thinking the same as me on that
Glad you mentioned weight. Was wondering about it after he'd done the floor!
I love seeing you young people inspired by the little freedoms we have. Your desire for a structure and family is the American dream.
❤️
I never like or care about the wiring process of every camper/house built. But yours definitely caught my attention because of how neat it is.
What an excellent job you did, I'd have painted it white cos the black will heat up the box like an oven, covering wires with insulation reduces the current capacity by 50%, better to have used flexible conduits to run the cables in
No to outright say you are wrong, I am curious as to what code you are referring to that derates its cabling to 50%. The ambient temp from NEC Table 310.15(B)(16) allows up to 167 degree F. He isn't even bundling cables so I don't see and issue there either. In homes all across America there is cable being run thru insulated space within attics and walls. There are also vehicles/trailers built just as he has done that are regularly sold to customers. I like to learn so please tell me if I am wrong from my understanding of the NEC.
Exellent build! A really nice little camper with all you need for a mini vacation in the hills, good job! One question thou: wouldn´t it be easier to paint it light colour and not need an A/C, then painting it black and need an A/C (higher cost, dry ac air, more stuff that can break etc.)..?
A tip for trailer tires that saved my ass on multiple occasions: use the same wheels as you vehicle. It gives you so much more flexibility. If something happens to a vehicle tire you can use the trailer tire and com back for it with a proper repair…the spares on the trailer, etc.
Only works if you're trailer has the same bolt pattern or you have adapters
@@pizzamangametime9773 considering this video is about building a trailer from the ground up, this would be something you account for during construction…..it’s why I mentioned it
@@Menuki I'm pretty sure this is a harbor freight trailer based off of the original wheels and the design of the frame or at least something similar to a harbor freight trailer the frame and tongue are very similar
At the beginning it showed IRONTON on the tongue@@pizzamangametime9773
This is an excellent idea buy if you have factory 17 to 20 inch wheels this can be SO expensive.
Not just for the wheels themselves but for the entire setup. This is why 90% of the campers like this come with 15 inch wheels.
Even used, 2 tires and wheels alone could easily cost $2k to simply match. And even then, what if you plan to possibly tow with 2 different vehicles?
I like many of the things you decided to incorporate in your build... thanks for sharing! With black as your choice of color, you will certainly NEED to have that AC, as you've created a solar oven on wheels. I've never understood some folks preference for black, as they think it's "cool" when it's actually "hot as hell". Also, it looks like your trailer is tail-heavy, which is why the trailer "wags" in clip of you towing the trailer @26:17 (it's really noticeable when you run the video a 2X) . This is dangerous and can cause a wreck. One solution in your case would be to move the axle back toward the rear, or ALWAYS to load a bunch of gear in front to counter-balance the heavy tail. Be safe out there!
It does sway around 69-70 mph but sense then we did add a front box and a Spare tire and it seems like it helped
Those heavy ass batteries should be in the front, not aft of the axle. Disaster waiting to happen.
You may be selling it but you sure built it with a lot of care. Mad props for your assistant... You guys are experts ! I envy your working relationship
Thanks this comment means a lot to us although we’re definitely not perfect but we try really hard to work together and have fun. Thanks for watching and God bless.
true
From experience I'll give you a tip. Those fenders will fall off unless you loctite the screws holding them on. Loctite and lock washers. The vibration will loosen those screws and goodbye fenders. Lost mine up in Canada on crappy logging roads.
Thanks I appreciate the tip. I did use lock nuts with regular washers, but I will go back and add Loctite to the bolts ✌️
Pretty nice work. For better towing, I would've installed the batteries, inverter and other electrical components on the tongue, if possible. Too much weight astern of the axle can be prone to bad oscillations.
Thanks Homie I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to watch our videos and I totally agree if I ever do this again I’m gonna put the entire batteries system in the front to help distribute weight.
I noticed the camper seemed to be swaying a bit on the road.
@@nealwright5630 Yep, noticed the same.
@@buildersblueprint ah, my thoughts had already been shared.
I thought the same thing, but if he puts a storage rack on the tongue at the front he can probably offset a lot of the dry weight of the batteries and fridge/cooler. I wouldn't load too much else in the rear though. Load the bed of the truck first.
Absolutely wonderful and an inspiration!! I converted a Suziki Super Carry into a micro camper. Not as sophisticated as yours, but so many things on your video look very, very familiar! Thank you!! LOve from the UK XX
Great build: the only thing I would change is in applying the fiberglass cloth? I would’ve started at the bottom working the way up overlapping & shingling it with a final corner application at the top.
Also why didnt he just finish the entire frame with back door first before applying it. I feel like that added another 3 days on when he couldve waited and done everything at once with the fiberglass ☹️
@@1028rhbfwdhhow's the one you made holding up?
@@suhtangwong considering my dad builds and renovates all tbe time. I just wanted to point out how it could be made faster for the person building it. It wasnt meant as a diss. Just more so like hey heres some good advice to cut back a day or two of curing.
Goodness, this seems an interesting diy project but really are you planning to sell it? I hope the poor buyer hets a decent warranty.
The cleats you used to hold the main side walls are an issue because if water does get in it will tend to drip down and then pool. Since the cleat is pressure treated, it will be okay but the plywood will absorb the moisture and wick the water up and then delaminate and decompose very quickly.
If not using marine grade plywood you have to build these things with water shedding in mind as an EQUALLY important factor with the trailer being the most important. Water will find a way in. Always.
Nice build, I would use PEEL PLY (polyester fabric) when laying up your fiberglass that way there's no need to sand.
A very interesting build for sure. I was concerned from the beginning with the selection of trailer. I have one of those upon which we haul our kayaks and I know it is rated for about 1100 pounds. Perhaps the change in wheels and tires helped bring that up some, but wood weighs more than it looks. The 5x8 version of the trailer is rated for 1700 pounds and only costs $30 more so it might make a better starting point. I think you two did a great job in thinking this thing out as well as executing with great efficiency. I agree with other posters below that the weight aft of the axle is a concern, especially at speed. Overall a great build!
That black exterior is a sun magnet.
Yes. Raptor is so easy to mix to make gray. You just simply add black and white together until you get the right mix. No need for an automotive base color.
Just going to a medium gray from the black will make a HUGE difference. Plus, a final coat of the gray will easily cover the tiger striping that the black only enhances.
tip for the flooring, buy some henry floor adhesive. which one you buy is up to you, there are a ton that will get the job done. its much easier tha trying to spread construction glue, just grab a trowel and spread
Nice build. You designed and built it very well. The jacks were a great idea for stability. The only thing I would have done different would have been more roof insulation and used a white roof coat on top of the black. 1500 lbs is a decent weight. Figure another 2-3 hundred when it's finished and loaded.
Really nice. I would love to own one like this. You and your wife are really talented.
I don’t know. I feel bad for whoever buys this. Yes it looks great but there are some questionable, major concerns. That subfloor will rot in one year unless you never use/tow it in the rain. Also the roof looks to be supported by pocket screws, which does not provide sufficient structure in my opinion.
It's very mexican 🌯 build quality
I agree. Also, liquid nails is an interior glue. He should have used a silicon based automotive glue.
Are you kidding? have you seen how they build new campers these days? His construction is light years ahead of what camper manufactures are doing. I'd honest trust his build over my camper.. which I've had to repair numerous times.
I honestly appreciate your opinion! I’m not well versed in builds so you having an opposing opinion is helpful
@@philbarnes5731 liquid nails makes several products not just an interior glue example they make construction adhesive, roofing sealant, subfloor glue and more
Either you work for an RV company or you were applying for the master technicians job. OMG that thing is amazing!
Good morning & thank you for sharing this portion of your build ! You both are definitely gifted, Blessings in your future projects & keep smiling !
Good morning thank you for watching it means a lot. We have already started the next project and can’t wait to share it with everyone.
Wow, that's some heavy duty electrics. I wonder what you could run in a little camper that would need such power. Also, two, big batteries in the rear might make your trailer bounce off your ball. I sure hope you cross your chains and carry alot of gear up front. Good luck and thanks for posting.
Nice build! Black be good in winter for attracting/absorbing the heat of the sun, (not so much in the summer, but Guess could always paint over it white to reflect sun if ends up being a bit too hot in summer?)
Looks good though! Nice job 👍
Procrastinating! Man that should be the last word you could be saying about you. I am amazed how much work you been putting into it. What a great motivation to watch you guys work
May God Bless you even more.
your biggest mistake was not replacing the stinger with a heavier straight supported bar that is welded on, the factory stinger on the front of those is easily warped junk usually and in upgrading you can allow it to swap under your bumper for tight turns and to have a properly supported square beam jack that is removable or folds out of the way
another thing to consider is getting rid of the U bar axle they give you in those kits as they bend easily if you hit a rock making the cheap rims included pop off on the road if you fail to notice it, a custom weld it yourself 5 lug hub kit and a nice square pipe that fits will allow bigger tires and better stability
saying this because i recently had to upgrade a stinger on parents trailer as well as axle and tires as it made moving it a chore and the lack of ground clearance also made it easy to damage, i also ended up removing most bolts and welding the parts together plus added more floor supports to allow for better weight distribution as the steel floor was bending inwards from the 4 small support beams they gave it when it would have been solid with 6, also added a winch to reduce the amount of work needed to load it but you don't really need that on a camper, with the upgrades added i could move it by hand and no longer feel sore after moving the stinger around to load or park it as the added jack made things far easier
also when i was building a mobile utility shed trailer i found that using bolted on aluminum or welded on steel framing with 1" square pipe with washer riveted aluminum sheeting made a far lighter and stronger frame than wood, the solid foam insulation is a good choice though as despite the ratings given it doesn't let air pass freely so it's actually cooler/warmer that fiberglass which rodents/bugs also like to nest in, plus it makes wiring easier
speaking of wiring if you use pvc conduit for everything and set up boxes on each end that are sealed you can wire the whole trailer and any goodies you wanted, propane, lights, stove solar and all others and still have room for a bed and powered roof vent to help with heat and cooking fumes, to solve the bathroom issue weld a trailer hitch receiver to the back and make an attachment to hold a toilet seat frame over a bucket with lid, you may wanna store a 50 gallon water tank under the floor but sewage should be dumped asap on small units
also if your roof is made strong like the walls you can do all sorts of neat stuff up there from storage to power generation which can also go from the trailer plug back to the truck if using a 7 way round, just remember to use a charge controller mppt type and same batteries as your truck if sharing draw for charging, could probly fit a 400W panel up there or 3x 100w panels if done carefully
Hi I just watched your video about the micro camper you built you don't give yourself enough credit you did a beautiful job and so flawless I just purchased a used trailer frame I think close to the same size as yours brother I have no idea how to even start and after watching what you did I know now iam never going to be able to do it you should be very proud of yourself you can build anything bro. I look forward to watching more of your work. Great job I wish I knew what you know .Dean from catskill new York
I plan on watching this 1,000 times!! It can be done!
❤ you guys! Inspiration for sure. Salutations
Wow, thanks a lot. I really appreciate the support. We have already started working on the next project and can’t wait to share it with everyone.
🙌🙌
@@buildersblueprint let me know $ ❤️
Great build. I love that all the battery/ wiring components are in one single small space and not all over the build. Well done ❤
Thanks I really appreciate it. More builds coming very soon. 🙌
@@buildersblueprint i subscribed looking forward to seeing them
Looks good only criticism I have is maybe next time for the connections use weatherproof shrink wrap connectors instead of the hardware store ones on things like your fuse panels etc, also did you add seals to the side doors around them? I couldn't tell so just wondering. All in all looks like a great build though you should be super proud of yourself.
Very impressive build. 👍🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
nice build only thing i see wrong is how flat roof is for snow and that sitting on it, wish had skill to make something like that. great work also cant see key holes in locks , so can any one open the doors?
Thank you the roof being flat is not too much of a problem. The fiberglass and raptor liner are both completely waterproof.
@@buildersblueprint i was thinking weight if heavy snow and moss and algie and dead leaves with the rain. but either way hell good build
My truck camper has a flat roof that is something like 2m x 5.5m and snow has never been a problem. Because the framing is solid it is possible to walk on top to clean off the leaf crud, tree resin and bird crap that builds up. A cordless jet wash does it in a few minutes.
@buildersblueprint Gahagan Park! The color of the cabinets are sweet. Good Lookin Micro!
Thanks homie.
We are building another and will be posting the whole video in the next week or so. ✌️
Dude, the bumps on the road will bust the few pieces of 2x4 holding this camper to the deck. I encourage you to apply some aluminum L-angle to the inside walls and floor to make sure you don't loose it just by hitting a couple of potholes. On an enclosed cargo trailer the vertical studs are made of metal and welded to the deck frame. A few 2X4's aren't gonna cut it.
Thank you! cuz I have no idea how to do any of this your opinion is so helpful!
Nice job. Very impressed.
The reason your trailer lights are flashing is cause well one you bought like the cheapest lights possible but you put a lot of weight in the rear of your camper and ground the lights through the ball so when ever the trailer bounces off the ball they lose ground.
Oh also dont use fiberglass strips thats why you have those lines in your paint use a cloth that covers the whole thing for no seams
Impressive build, great job!
You are both so inspiring and talented. Really great work.
All the best from the UK.
Thank you so much. We have already started working the next project and can’t wait to share it with everyone. Thanks for watching and God bless. 🙏
As my only comment is the lapel mic is designed for discretion with only a little fluff in sight clamped to the cuff of a shirt :) :) this is really cool, I love it!! Really well built and good tasteful interior with all the home stuff, without the cheap caravan interior as standard commercially. I think that's one and a half tons in the end? I wonder what equilibrium is between weight and security in the wind; if carbon chasis and foam ply would be fine with interior like bedding and kitchenette weight holding it down :o I've always wanted to build my own
Very nice build. I am impressed with your electrical system and HVAC.
Thank you I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to watch your videos. We have already started on the next project and will be posting it in the next week or so. 🙌🙌
Very nice job documenting the build, and I love the angular look. It's like a Chuck Norris version of a teardrop. I'm considering a foamy sealed and strengthened with landscape fabric / resin using some of your design features. Great job!
Well done fam! Always in awe of your projects. Looking forward to what you’ll build next! 🙏🏼
Thanks dude I really appreciate you watching. We have already started the next project and can’t wait to share it with you guys 🙌🙌
@@buildersblueprintremind folks this is a DELUXE mini trailer, for sale $$$$$ , , ,
Heads up. Don't put all the stubbies on the same side. The bottom only wood insulation and sub floor all have the tail ends on the same side. I'd recommend flipping the shorty on the insulation.
You have really a lot of skills in building different stuff and all went out very wellHope yo can get this one sold so you can help more homeless people. That is an GREAT idea and I hope this inspire more people to do the same.
Thank you I really appreciate you watching and supporting our channel. We do plan on doing another homeless camper series in the summertime and have already started working on the next project. Thanks for watching and God bless.❤️❤️
I enjoyed watching this build, very neatly done. I'd suggest adding a metal mesh gaurd below the subfloor to give it additional durability for long travels & for dirt road protection. Also, I may have missed something, but what's the point of a door that locks when the hinges are exposed & someone could easily get in with a drill?
Same thought here. I had a grin about that "door lock" the whole time :D
Love that AC unit
Congrats on the build! What an amazing journey! Thanks for letting us fill this mini dwelling with major sound 🥰 Soundbar Mini FTW
Thanks
I really enjoy the high quality products you guys offer and plan to include a sound bar in every build. 🙌
@@buildersblueprintnot advisable in homeless builds , , soundbars alert Johnny Law to location of homeless , earbuds do not 😊👍
@@wyldelf2685 we make something for that too :)
@@sennheiserman sennheiser is supporting the right people! I’ve always admired ur headphones but it’s out of budget for a brokie like me haha.
Looks great man. Nice work!
Thanks homie 🤙
What a great project and buildout. I liked the use of the scissor jacks and the upsizing of the wheels/tires. Thanks for the video .
A couple questions: At 24:52 when swapping the wheels/tires it looks like the bare wood floor can be seen. Is this a reason for concern and if so, how should it best be addressed? With your doors did you use any type of weatherstripping to prevent water intrusion? And, finally, with the door hinges is there a concealed hinge that would also work to prevent the screws from being exposed and subject to tampering?
There are so many places on this camper that aren't properly sealed...
That thing is gorgeous. Beautiful exterior and interior design
I need this trailer! I could finally get out of this homeless shelter after a year and two months so I can get on the payroll here
Hit me up maybe we can try to get you into it
@beerrunbus I wish man...being homeless after my house burned down last year no income waiting for my disability to hopefully be approved for my shoulder replacement and mental health issues...
@@buildersblueprint also remember I emailed u about the bike trailer as I don't have a license and wouldn't be able to tow this trailer unless I had it parked somewhere...
@@HomelessAdventuresHDdo you have a mentor?
@@gritdeskovoroda6311 nope nothing
Simply amazing, I am beyond impressed with what you have done, you should sell plans for this camper build or start a company building them. The one you built is great for highway and light off road, you could build a different version for extreme off road and make a killing!
Wow, thank you this comment means a lot.
We plan on making many other projects like this, and are currently in the process of making an epoxy resin lava desk gaming set up
Nicely done ❤ thanks for an interesting content!
Thanks for watching Homie. I really appreciate it. We have already started the next video and will be posting it soon. 🙌❤️❤️
What size tires did you upgrade to? Did you have to modify anything, to upgrade to the new tire size?
Love the build! One thing sparked my interest the weight being towed shouldn’t it be heavier in the front of the camper? Doing so would allow you to correct a swerve easier more weight in the rear it could throw you off the road
Yes, @26:18 you can actually see the trailer slightly oscillating even when driving in a straight line.
That's why the gas/battery locker is usually mounted on the hitch...
Great Video! Makes this feel doable even for a novice like me.
Well done young man. I have hope yet for this generation having the skills and motivation to do such a thing is amazing! 🎉🎉🎉
do you praise people for putting together ikea?
This camper would be perfect for someone who goes on hunting or fishing trips and doesn’t want to sleep in a tent or pay for a motel room great video
100%. That’s exactly what it was designed for. We plan on building another one in the near future. Thanks for watching and God bless. ❤️
Probably more of a good weather camper i guess. Wouldnt trust it in the rain.
You really need to properly seal those doors. Water will easily get in.
Also the perpendicular sleeping mattress is a joke, right? How long is it across? Might fit a small child like that.
I do like the electrical system and the use of car jacks for leveling, thats smart.
We were not able to add weather seal gaskets because they hadn’t came in the mail yet, but we have already installed them on all the doors and the mattress is a tri folding mattress so it folds out to a queen size bed. I do appreciate you watching and hope to see you in the comment section soon. 🙌
I like the idea of increasing the size and speed rating of the tires, however, you should never use a spacer without installing longer lug studs. "Every stud or bolt must be long enough to thread a length at least equal to the stud or bolt diameter. For example, a 1/2” thread diameter must thread into the lug nut at least 1/2”. NHTSA. The reason for the longer studs is to allow the lug nuts to fully engage with the lug studs on all the threads of the lug nuts. Not allowing full engagement WILL put excessive stress on the threads of the lug studs which will cause thread fracturing.
Additionally, the spacer as installed is not centered on the hub and thus will cause the balance problems regardless of the balance of the tire/rim assembly.
Otherwise, excellent build.
Door hinges with the screw heads exposed to the outside? No point putting a lock on it. LoL
I was going to type this exact comment
It's fun to watch different ways to build a micro camper! You have some nice tools to work with! Great job!
The door doesn't need a lock if the hinges are on the outside
Yes because thieves won't just break a window to get in huh?
everything I saw you do in the video looked above and beyond. very well done in my opinion.
Thanks Joseph I really appreciate you watching. I am just about finished up with another tiny home build and will be posting the full process this weekend. 🙌
this man loves his 1/4 inch ply wood, im more of a lowhan man myself but i bet that thing is sturdy
Unique build that turned out great! I just started my build and I have also planned on making my own doors. Not many people do that so cudos!
For the 400 amp hour system you need minimum of a 80 amp solar charger . Also should do a 30 amp.service with transfer switch that way you can run off shore power or a generator
1st, I want you to know I gave you a thumbs up. 👍👍👍 The reason was I like your can- do attitude. I also like how created the camper. Good job and nice work 👍. You also have a great way of how you did the job. 😅😊
Hey thank you I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to watch our videos. I hope to see you in the comment section again soon. 🙌
Congratulations. Excelent work. My name is Paul. From Brazil. Teacher of the Math. Perfect calculys.
@Odins-Dad is correct. The camper was swaying and that can be fatal at highway speeds. You need to correct the weight problem by adding weight to the front of the trailer in front of the wheels or on the tongue. {possibly propane tanks and a storage box. Move the water tank to the front as well.)
Very nice job!!! I enjoy watching all of you guys build ur stuff, enjoy seeing the creativity that is displayed!!!!!
Really appreciate it. We are building a tiny house in my backyard and will be posting the full video soon 🙌
Nice job, I do wonder with most of these build why people don’t use the aerodynamics of the triangle shaped front that’s holding the hitch.
It offers extra space and adds to the aerodynamics of the trailer.
Also an integrated drip rail catching any rainwater if the kitchen roof is upright would have been nice, but overall a good build, a nice quality build camper/ caravan.
Very impressive craftsmanship. Looks like y'all got an A+ in shop.
Thanks homie. New video dropping next Saturday ✌️
@@buildersblueprint Look forward to it broheim...
That's a cute little thing! GREAT BUILD!!!!
I have issues with using More than 2 hinges. Unless the alignment is within the wiggle tolerance of the hinges, you end up putting tremendous forces on your mounting screws through leverage. Better to use 2 sturdy hinges and ensure the door and frame is rigid.
That is the best built trailer I have ever seen. Very good job.
Thank you I really appreciate you taking the time out of your day to watch our videos. We’ve already started on the next, and will be posting it very soon. 🙌
25:14 Wandering indicator lights should go outwards, not inwards. Also the taillight have a lose contact.
You guys did such a kick ass job with this. It looks amazing.
Thanks Homie new video dropping Saturday one week from today 😎
Looks great! How has the fiberglass and rapture liner held up? Any leaks with the hurricane hinge? These are things I see most camper builders complain about.....
The fiberglass is holding up really well, although the hurricane hinge has leaked twice and I had to add extra gaskets
Yesssssss I’m excited. I dropped everything to watch this video
Hey I appreciate you 🙌🙌
@@buildersblueprint I enjoyed the whole video. You guys did an amazing job and I know whoever buys this camper will be blessed.
Awesome craftsmanship! Nice!
Thank you we just finished another one and will be posting the video today
I friggin LOVE it!! Nice work. Kudos to your wife...
Thank you I really appreciate the support currently building another bike camper and will be posting soon
A nice team effort. I am sure it was a learning experience and as you use it, you will learn more. Don’t let the “know-it all” boo-birds discourage you.
Pressure treated 1/2" plywood floor would have been a good option if you're going so far as to us PT lumber in other areas.
Nice build!
awesome camper. only thing i noticed it needs is a trailer stabilizer. looked a little swirly when you were at speeds.
Kurz und knapp gesagt, ihr zwei seid einfach nur Mega.
21:25 you’re now officially an Oompa Loompa!
I don't know if Li Time comes with ferrull connections or if you added them, but good job! So much better in terms of safety an positive connections. I use them for all my electrical projects such as my 3D printer farm.