I’ve watched 10 or 11 of your videos in the last week or so. Mike, you’re an excellent presenter/instructor! I’ll watch a video, then watch another….. I’m not getting anything done around the house. Just bought a new Silverado in July. We coated it within a week or two (with brand x). It’s gorgeous! So I’ve spent months learning from UA-cam how to maintain it. The videos you put out are hands down the best. Thanks for passing the torch. Mark
Wow! Thank you for the kind words, but getting your chores done around the house is all on you. LOL I just try to be empathetic when I teach. I remember what it's like when trying to learn something new and then do my best to above all else, keep it simple and easy to learn but also to not only show HOW to do something but also *WHY* to do in such a way. I think this combo works best for anyone that's serious about actually learning and mastering a topic. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Yeah, buffing out the Corvette C8 body style is a real paint, but if you take your time, focus on the task at hand and of course, use great abrasive technology, they come out just as nice as any black Toyota Camry. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
The downside of any waxy type substance, be it carnauba, montan or some other source, is that each time you wash or wipe the paint you micro-abrade the wax off the paint. Thus over time, the was wears off. This is just one reason ceramic coatings have become popular and that's because they form a semi-permanent bond to the paint. Thus, they last longer. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Great Video! I have the MX Kit from Dr. Beasley's (unopened). I am getting ready to use it for the first time on my black C5 Corvette. I just ordered the Gloss Builder as well today. My question is, after polishing, do I still use the included Paint Builder that comes in the MX Kit or use the Gloss Builder instead? Both, one after the other? Not sure how the new Gloss Builder fits into the previous MX workflow?.
Hey there, I believe we spoke on the phone the other day. Just so everyone reading these comments can see, you would use Gloss Builder instead of Paint Coating Builder.
Generally speaking a panel prep will improve the durability of any protection, so it's always advised when using organic polishes and compounds that leave a residue behind.
It should be if you use a foam "polishing pad". You can kind of tell by polishing a defined section and then washing this section and pay attention to how the water acts in this section as compared to paint nearby that you did not polish. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Not sure what you heard, but I said 3 MILS not Millimeters. *Mils* = one thousandth of an inch *Millimeter* = a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter *Question: How thick is a mil to a millimeter?* Mil thickness compared to mm (millimeter) and inches = 0.0254 mm A mil is a measurement that equals one-thousandth of an inch, or 0.001 inch. One mil also equals 0.0254 mm (millimeter). Thus, a mil is not the same thickness as a millimeter. The term "mil" is not an abbreviation but a unit of measure. The really *BIG PICTURE* point is that factory clearcoats are simply to thin to sand safely and even those that do sand factory paint and don't sand or buff through the clearcoat, have now left the clearcoat so THIN that the paint will likely suffer from pre-mature clearcoat failure. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I’ve watched 10 or 11 of your videos in the last week or so. Mike, you’re an excellent presenter/instructor! I’ll watch a video, then watch another….. I’m not getting anything done around the house.
Just bought a new Silverado in July. We coated it within a week or two (with brand x). It’s gorgeous!
So I’ve spent months learning from UA-cam how to maintain it. The videos you put out are hands down the best.
Thanks for passing the torch.
Mark
Wow! Thank you for the kind words, but getting your chores done around the house is all on you. LOL
I just try to be empathetic when I teach. I remember what it's like when trying to learn something new and then do my best to above all else, keep it simple and easy to learn but also to not only show HOW to do something but also *WHY* to do in such a way. I think this combo works best for anyone that's serious about actually learning and mastering a topic.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I see your're still making these Cars look like Glass! I'll be ordering the whole Dr. Beasley's line of Products!
Yeah, buffing out the Corvette C8 body style is a real paint, but if you take your time, focus on the task at hand and of course, use great abrasive technology, they come out just as nice as any black Toyota Camry.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Great video!
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Great stuff . I have a black car & truck and it's very hard to keep clean & shinny . Seems like the wax don't last long .
The downside of any waxy type substance, be it carnauba, montan or some other source, is that each time you wash or wipe the paint you micro-abrade the wax off the paint. Thus over time, the was wears off. This is just one reason ceramic coatings have become popular and that's because they form a semi-permanent bond to the paint. Thus, they last longer.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Hope this products become available in my country Greece i would love to start using them
Hopefully some day. -Mike
Great Video! I have the MX Kit from Dr. Beasley's (unopened). I am getting ready to use it for the first time on my black C5 Corvette. I just ordered the Gloss Builder as well today. My question is, after polishing, do I still use the included Paint Builder that comes in the MX Kit or use the Gloss Builder instead? Both, one after the other? Not sure how the new Gloss Builder fits into the previous MX workflow?.
Hey there, I believe we spoke on the phone the other day. Just so everyone reading these comments can see, you would use Gloss Builder instead of Paint Coating Builder.
@@DrBeasleys Yes, thanks again for the clarification.
Do you need to use a panel prep if using a wax and not ceramic coating?
Generally speaking a panel prep will improve the durability of any protection, so it's always advised when using organic polishes and compounds that leave a residue behind.
If I want to remove my current 2.5 year old Ceramic coating to install a new one, will NSP 95 be sufficient to remove it?
It should be if you use a foam "polishing pad". You can kind of tell by polishing a defined section and then washing this section and pay attention to how the water acts in this section as compared to paint nearby that you did not polish.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Don't you mean .3mm thick as 3mm thick is thick
Not sure what you heard, but I said 3 MILS not Millimeters.
*Mils* = one thousandth of an inch
*Millimeter* = a metric unit of length equal to one thousandth of a meter
*Question: How thick is a mil to a millimeter?*
Mil thickness compared to mm (millimeter) and inches = 0.0254 mm
A mil is a measurement that equals one-thousandth of an inch, or 0.001 inch. One mil also equals 0.0254 mm (millimeter). Thus, a mil is not the same thickness as a millimeter. The term "mil" is not an abbreviation but a unit of measure.
The really *BIG PICTURE* point is that factory clearcoats are simply to thin to sand safely and even those that do sand factory paint and don't sand or buff through the clearcoat, have now left the clearcoat so THIN that the paint will likely suffer from pre-mature clearcoat failure.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Did you see my answer? Does what I say now make sense?