Dear Mr. Mike I just wanted to say thank you, your experience and continued support of the detailing topics and industry is amazing and worthy of respect on every level. You've answered soo many of my questions without even knowing it, especially on car detailing forums, and the answers where so in depth that it bogged my mind (In a good way) also I'm from Poland - we salute you, deeply thank you for all your dedication, it made me more efficient and calmer in so many of the nerve racking aspects of polishing and detailing in general!
Wow!!! Thank you for the kind words. I've always worked really hard at helping others in this industry and it's very rewarding to read a comment like yours and know that I've had a positive effect. -Mike Phillips
I bought a Griots 6-inch polisher in 2018. Then, I took Mike’s class at AG in January 2019 in which I got to experience the Flex 3401. I really liked the Flex, but the price was hard to justify for a hobbyist who only does 1 or 2 cars a year. When Harbor Freight introduced the Hercules forced rotation polisher, I picked one up. I switched the backing plate to a Flex 5” and gave it a shot. I found you really need to keep a good grip on it because of the potential for walking, but I really liked the results. I think I paid about $110 with a coupon. The Flex is probably better, but the Hercules is a great value. I’m planning to convert my old Griot’s polisher to a 3” polisher.
Great background story and thank you for taking one of my classes in the past. For anyone reading this into the future, I continue to teach the most hands-on detailing classes on planet Earth and I promise not only will you learn a LOT - but you'll make new friends and have a lot of fun too! Plus, I always bring in the COOLEST cars for my classes to train on. -Mike Phillips
The early Meguiar's G100 polishers were simply Porter Cable polishers with a Meguiar's *sticker* over the Porter Cable sticker. LOL - That said, the Porter Cable or G100 have been responsible for MILLIONS of cars being de-swirled and polished to perfection. RUPES and FLEX stand on the shoulders of Porter Cable. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Mr. mighty Mike, I got to say thank you ! very useful down to the point , after many scenes of others, I got to say you’re the man by far 🫵👍thanks again brother
Wow! Thank you for the kind words, especially in the context of how many huge and popular Detailing UA-camrs there are in the game. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
I started with the porter cable , I think it’s a really good beginners machine but I’m just a DIY weekend warrior with two cars and only use it a couple times a year so take that for what it’s worth, I am looking to upgrade soon though
The Porter Cable 7424XP is a well-built and capable polisher. MILLIONS of cars have been de-swirled using this infamous too. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing I’m looking for a cordless polisher do you have any recommendations? I am thinking of the dewalt as I’m a dewalt fan and have several 20v max batteries already
Once you go down the road by buying a specific brand of tool and then start acquiring more and more of their batteries, it makes "simple" sense to continue down this path. So take a look at the DeWALT cordless polishers. DeWalt makes great tools. I'm sure whatever they release for the public has had plenty of testing and they feel confident in the tool or tools. -Mike Phillips
Yes. You get the power of a gear-driven rotary, (most people don't describe a rotary this way but they ARE gear-driven and zero pad stalling), with the more gentle abrading orbital action. Best of all, no wasting time trying to maintain pad rotation. I'm a big fan of gear-driven orbital polishers but it's important to note that with softer paints it is normally easier to finish out nicer and more consistently using a free spinning random orbital polisher. And of course, the MOST IMPORTANT factor when it comes to polishing paint, gelcoat and plastics is the abrasive technology. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
For someone brand new, I'd recommend getting an entry level free spinning, random orbital polisher, which is what I shared in this video - EXCEPT - the Harbor Freight Hercules Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher - this was a gear-driven orbital polisher. If a person is young, strong and in good physical condition, maybe consider jumping right to the gear-driven orbital polishers and simply avoid having to deal with pad stalling and brain drain. Also - if a person is BRAND NEW to machine polishing, I would strongly recommend starting out by ONLY polishing the HOOD or trunk lid. Go through the entire process to one of these easy-to-buff panels and by doing this you will gain experience and more important, you'll know exactly what you're getting into when you decide to tackle the entire car. Just take a little bite you're first time. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I’ve got some serious pinstriping on my truck (new ford). I plan to get griots. For the compound, I don’t know what to get (too aggressive might be risky, too weak and it might be a waste of time). Any advice?
Rod Kraft who is presently works for Griot's, is a long-time friend of mine, actually there's a couple of guys at Griot's that I used to work for when we all worked at Meguiar's. The way Rod has explained it to me is all the abrasives in their BOSS creams are the same size, what changes is the volume of abrasives in each product. There's probably more chemistry to it than that but the bigger picture point would be to slow-down and be careful when moving a spinning buffing pad next to pin striping. I'm doing this same thing right now on a 1970 Pontiac Grand Prix with some really ugly, black and gold pin striping. I would say get the Correction Cream and do a Test Spot on the hood and then figure out from the results if you need more correction power, the same or less. For pads, the orange and yellow are very useful. Hope that helps and thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Great to hear. If this is your first time using a polisher to do any type of paint correction, my recommendation is, for the first time using it, *JUST TACKLE ONE PANEL*. For example, the trunk lid or the hood. This way you'll get some experience but more important, you'll have a really good understanding of what you're getting into when you go to tackle the entire car. I'm pretty good at this type of stuff and to go from start to finish on a NORMAL passenger car, like a 2022 Honda Accord, starting with washing the car in the morning to making the final wipe to finish the job, it would take me anywhere from 8 to 12 hour and I don't normally take breaks. So, start by just buffing out one simple panel, and then the next weekend, tackle the whole car or just tackle the car a few panels at a time. FWIW Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ thank you for all the tips. I learn something then buy their recommendation! Torq22d, Griots 3” should deliver in a day or two, the porter cable, a Dewalt polisher, a ton of pads, and 15 lifetimes of liquids. My 2017 Red Tundra is my baby and I want to make her dazzle! Yes, I’m a bit embarrassed, but ultimately, im afraid of doing something wrong. I appreciate your videos - truly!
To me, they all look crap tbh. Too loud, too much vibration & most sound like gravel in a cement mixer. How hard is it to build a polisher that's quiet, smooth, vibration free & doesn't ruin your hands after 20 minutes use? Yet to come across a machine polisher that doesn't do my head in after 1 hours use. Any suggestions for a decent one?
Hi James, just to point out, this was not a video on the best polishers, it was a video on entry level polishers and like the old saying goes, * "you get what you pay for"*. Machine polishing, car paint or even boats for HOURS is going to be physically hard on a human no matter what. The SMOOTHEST polishers on the market are the RUPES free spinning random orbital polishes, like the BigFoot 15mm and 21mm polishers. I've been to the RUPES manufacturing plant in Milan, Italy, and seen these tools assembled in person. Low to no vibration is the goal for RUPES engineers to make their tools as vibration-free as possible. There are a lot of copies of the RUPES design, and some of these, if they were copied closely, are probably also very low vibration, for example the Griot's BOSS polishers. The downside of any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher is the pad stalling aspect. So, you can trade low vibration for a slower process or deal with the vibration for tools like the Harbor Freight Hercules Forced Rotation Dual Action polisher or tools like the FLEX BEAST family of tools, which like the Harbor Freight version, are 8mm gear-driven orbital polishers. These have ZERO pad stalling, but the tool themselves will require more hand, arm, back and leg muscles to operate and control for hours. My suggestion for a decent polisher at a low price would be the Griot's Garage G9 - this is a 9mm free spinning random orbital polisher, but it's very well built and probably the best bang for the buck for quiet and smooth operation for hours. For a high-end polisher, my guess is the new RUPES Mark V BigFoot 15mm free spinning random orbital polisher either in corded or cordless models, will be the smoothest, lowest vibration polisher on the market today. But just to add, if some company has copied the RUPES mechanical design to the T - these copies would probably also be low vibration and probably cost less. Don't know if the above helps, but thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing Thank you for the reply Mike - I'm going to go look at Rupes. There's 3 or 4 polishers here, but they all are very very hard on the hands for any extended use. When you finish a vehicle, you can be sure your hands will be aching the next day.
I don't see us bringing out our own polisher anytime soon. To be honest, there's not a lot of profit in the tool manufacturing world until you do it on a LARGE scale and already have access to all the various resources required to actually manufacture a tool from scratch. This is why you see other companies contract with large tool manufactures to bring out an existing tool only with their own branding colors and names. Great question. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I've seen these, probably tested them, from memory, they're pretty weak to try and do paint correction. What you want to do is mark the side of your buffing pad and then when using it on the highest speed setting - look to see if you're able to maintain pad rotation and pad oscillation. If you can - then you can use it to remove swirls and scratches. If not - then we call tools that can't do paint correction - Wax Spreaders". Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
I just got the Harbor Fright Long throw for $60.00 with a coupon. Now I see you saying it's not great for beginners. With that said, I'll pay extra attention and start on my oldest car. I'm generally pretty handy and I think I'll catch on. Love your videos!
First, thanks for watching and commenting. Second - Sound like you bought the HF Long Stroke *BEFORE* watching this video. It's all good. I'm sure their 20mm Long Stroke free spinning random orbital polisher will work great on larger, flatter panels, it will just struggle to maintain pad rotation when buffing out curves. Your purchase is why I included the 20mm in this video, I wasn't recommending, it I was just sharing it so when people that watch this video go to HF and see BOTH polishers, no one will think I wasn't aware of it. Heck even the 6" Harbor Freight polisher I recommend for a budget, entry level polisher struggles with maintaining pad rotation and pad oscillation and it's a 8mm short stroke polisher. They real key to getting great results from any polisher is to put some time behind the tool. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing I've used the 20mm and it's ok but i find it really loud and it has a lot of vibration because of the 20mm throw. I almost prefer a rotary over a da at least for heavy cutting.
@@faststang85 - I hear you brother. When I need to do heavy paint correction or like in the example I shared on my Facebook and Instagram pages, removing sanding scratches after sanding down a car to remove orange peel, I always use a rotary polisher and follow with an orbital polisher. Because this video, and the matching article, (see below), is targeted at beginners, I think it's safer to start an absolute newbie out with a simple DA polisher and as they become comfortable with machine paint correction and gain some experience, then let them jump up to a rotary. I teach the rotary polisher as the FIRST tool my students learn in our classes. It's a vital skill to possess. But in this context, I limited the tools to orbital polishers. There will be plenty of rotary polisher videos and articles in the future. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing thanks for the response! I've known who you are for years now but I never knew you had a yt page. I'm slowly going through your videos. What I'd like to get better at is knowing what pads are best to use with what compound as there are many different types that say they're for finishing, polishing etc. I'd call myself decent at buffing but im no pro and I think my biggest struggle has been with getting swirls out completely and light as sometimes the paint will look great from one direction and the other I'll see defects still also i tend to use more product than i see others use when ive tried with less i have trouble getting defects out.
@@faststang85 - Totally get it. We have a video coming up on buffing pads. I'm in the process of acquiring a LOT of the best and different types of pads on the market. Stay tuned. This will be a LIVE broadcast video, and also an article. Below is the link to all our LIVE broadcast videos, and these are interesting, because you never know what's going to happen when you go LIVE. Plus, you can interact in REAL TIME if you're able to watch. The good news is all our LIVE classes are archived here on the Dr. Beasly's UA-cam Channel. *LIVE - UNEDITED Video Classes* www.youtube.com/@DrBeasleys/streams Mike
Dear Mr. Mike I just wanted to say thank you, your experience and continued support of the detailing topics and industry is amazing and worthy of respect on every level. You've answered soo many of my questions without even knowing it, especially on car detailing forums, and the answers where so in depth that it bogged my mind (In a good way) also I'm from Poland - we salute you, deeply thank you for all your dedication, it made me more efficient and calmer in so many of the nerve racking aspects of polishing and detailing in general!
Wow!!! Thank you for the kind words. I've always worked really hard at helping others in this industry and it's very rewarding to read a comment like yours and know that I've had a positive effect. -Mike Phillips
I bought a Griots 6-inch polisher in 2018. Then, I took Mike’s class at AG in January 2019 in which I got to experience the Flex 3401. I really liked the Flex, but the price was hard to justify for a hobbyist who only does 1 or 2 cars a year. When Harbor Freight introduced the Hercules forced rotation polisher, I picked one up. I switched the backing plate to a Flex 5” and gave it a shot. I found you really need to keep a good grip on it because of the potential for walking, but I really liked the results. I think I paid about $110 with a coupon. The Flex is probably better, but the Hercules is a great value. I’m planning to convert my old Griot’s polisher to a 3” polisher.
Great background story and thank you for taking one of my classes in the past. For anyone reading this into the future, I continue to teach the most hands-on detailing classes on planet Earth and I promise not only will you learn a LOT - but you'll make new friends and have a lot of fun too! Plus, I always bring in the COOLEST cars for my classes to train on. -Mike Phillips
Hi Mike hope you doing well, how to reach you please ? Need to start learning,,,
Thank you..@@MikePhillips-Dr.Beasleys
I’m new to this. Why do you need a smaller 3” polisher ?
@@Los714 Just to get into smaller areas where the bigger pads don’t fit.
I started out with the meguiars version the G100. Back then that was it for da's. Now it's flex & rupes. Great video mike!! 🏆
The early Meguiar's G100 polishers were simply Porter Cable polishers with a Meguiar's *sticker* over the Porter Cable sticker. LOL - That said, the Porter Cable or G100 have been responsible for MILLIONS of cars being de-swirled and polished to perfection. RUPES and FLEX stand on the shoulders of Porter Cable.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Mr. mighty Mike, I got to say thank you ! very useful down to the point , after many scenes of others, I got to say you’re the man by far 🫵👍thanks again brother
Wow! Thank you for the kind words, especially in the context of how many huge and popular Detailing UA-camrs there are in the game.
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
What pads would you recommend to be purchased along with the Hercules, also what kind of compound? (Beginner here)
I started with the porter cable , I think it’s a really good beginners machine but I’m just a DIY weekend warrior with two cars and only use it a couple times a year so take that for what it’s worth, I am looking to upgrade soon though
The Porter Cable 7424XP is a well-built and capable polisher. MILLIONS of cars have been de-swirled using this infamous too. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing I’m looking for a cordless polisher do you have any recommendations? I am thinking of the dewalt as I’m a dewalt fan and have several 20v max batteries already
Once you go down the road by buying a specific brand of tool and then start acquiring more and more of their batteries, it makes "simple" sense to continue down this path. So take a look at the DeWALT cordless polishers. DeWalt makes great tools. I'm sure whatever they release for the public has had plenty of testing and they feel confident in the tool or tools. -Mike Phillips
@@DrBeasleys thanks Mike
I'm a "pro" and the PC is my absolute favorite tool.
I got both Griot's! As a DIY'ER works great!
Agree, quality tools that will get the job done. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Invaluable information, thanks for this video!
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Mike, for a beginner, would you say the forced rotation machine is a happy medium between a rotary and a DA?
Yes. You get the power of a gear-driven rotary, (most people don't describe a rotary this way but they ARE gear-driven and zero pad stalling), with the more gentle abrading orbital action. Best of all, no wasting time trying to maintain pad rotation.
I'm a big fan of gear-driven orbital polishers but it's important to note that with softer paints it is normally easier to finish out nicer and more consistently using a free spinning random orbital polisher.
And of course, the MOST IMPORTANT factor when it comes to polishing paint, gelcoat and plastics is the abrasive technology.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
-Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing Thank you, master Mike.
Mike should you use a orbital or dual action for a beginner
For someone brand new, I'd recommend getting an entry level free spinning, random orbital polisher, which is what I shared in this video - EXCEPT - the Harbor Freight Hercules Forced Rotation Dual Action Polisher - this was a gear-driven orbital polisher. If a person is young, strong and in good physical condition, maybe consider jumping right to the gear-driven orbital polishers and simply avoid having to deal with pad stalling and brain drain.
Also - if a person is BRAND NEW to machine polishing, I would strongly recommend starting out by ONLY polishing the HOOD or trunk lid. Go through the entire process to one of these easy-to-buff panels and by doing this you will gain experience and more important, you'll know exactly what you're getting into when you decide to tackle the entire car. Just take a little bite you're first time.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I’ve got some serious pinstriping on my truck (new ford). I plan to get griots. For the compound, I don’t know what to get (too aggressive might be risky, too weak and it might be a waste of time). Any advice?
Rod Kraft who is presently works for Griot's, is a long-time friend of mine, actually there's a couple of guys at Griot's that I used to work for when we all worked at Meguiar's. The way Rod has explained it to me is all the abrasives in their BOSS creams are the same size, what changes is the volume of abrasives in each product. There's probably more chemistry to it than that but the bigger picture point would be to slow-down and be careful when moving a spinning buffing pad next to pin striping. I'm doing this same thing right now on a 1970 Pontiac Grand Prix with some really ugly, black and gold pin striping.
I would say get the Correction Cream and do a Test Spot on the hood and then figure out from the results if you need more correction power, the same or less. For pads, the orange and yellow are very useful.
Hope that helps and thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ thank you!
I’ve got everything, and used none as of yet! Hopefully real soon!
Great to hear. If this is your first time using a polisher to do any type of paint correction, my recommendation is, for the first time using it,
*JUST TACKLE ONE PANEL*.
For example, the trunk lid or the hood. This way you'll get some experience but more important, you'll have a really good understanding of what you're getting into when you go to tackle the entire car. I'm pretty good at this type of stuff and to go from start to finish on a NORMAL passenger car, like a 2022 Honda Accord, starting with washing the car in the morning to making the final wipe to finish the job, it would take me anywhere from 8 to 12 hour and I don't normally take breaks.
So, start by just buffing out one simple panel, and then the next weekend, tackle the whole car or just tackle the car a few panels at a time.
FWIW
Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@ thank you for all the tips. I learn something then buy their recommendation! Torq22d, Griots 3” should deliver in a day or two, the porter cable, a Dewalt polisher, a ton of pads, and 15 lifetimes of liquids. My 2017 Red Tundra is my baby and I want to make her dazzle! Yes, I’m a bit embarrassed, but ultimately, im afraid of doing something wrong. I appreciate your videos - truly!
To me, they all look crap tbh. Too loud, too much vibration & most sound like gravel in a cement mixer. How hard is it to build a polisher that's quiet, smooth, vibration free & doesn't ruin your hands after 20 minutes use? Yet to come across a machine polisher that doesn't do my head in after 1 hours use.
Any suggestions for a decent one?
Hi James, just to point out, this was not a video on the best polishers, it was a video on entry level polishers and like the old saying goes, * "you get what you pay for"*. Machine polishing, car paint or even boats for HOURS is going to be physically hard on a human no matter what.
The SMOOTHEST polishers on the market are the RUPES free spinning random orbital polishes, like the BigFoot 15mm and 21mm polishers. I've been to the RUPES manufacturing plant in Milan, Italy, and seen these tools assembled in person. Low to no vibration is the goal for RUPES engineers to make their tools as vibration-free as possible. There are a lot of copies of the RUPES design, and some of these, if they were copied closely, are probably also very low vibration, for example the Griot's BOSS polishers.
The downside of any brand of free spinning random orbital polisher is the pad stalling aspect. So, you can trade low vibration for a slower process or deal with the vibration for tools like the Harbor Freight Hercules Forced Rotation Dual Action polisher or tools like the FLEX BEAST family of tools, which like the Harbor Freight version, are 8mm gear-driven orbital polishers. These have ZERO pad stalling, but the tool themselves will require more hand, arm, back and leg muscles to operate and control for hours.
My suggestion for a decent polisher at a low price would be the Griot's Garage G9 - this is a 9mm free spinning random orbital polisher, but it's very well built and probably the best bang for the buck for quiet and smooth operation for hours.
For a high-end polisher, my guess is the new RUPES Mark V BigFoot 15mm free spinning random orbital polisher either in corded or cordless models, will be the smoothest, lowest vibration polisher on the market today. But just to add, if some company has copied the RUPES mechanical design to the T - these copies would probably also be low vibration and probably cost less.
Don't know if the above helps, but thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing Thank you for the reply Mike - I'm going to go look at Rupes. There's 3 or 4 polishers here, but they all are very very hard on the hands for any extended use. When you finish a vehicle, you can be sure your hands will be aching the next day.
Will Dr. Beasley’s be bringing their own polisher(s) to the their product line? Thanks
I don't see us bringing out our own polisher anytime soon. To be honest, there's not a lot of profit in the tool manufacturing world until you do it on a LARGE scale and already have access to all the various resources required to actually manufacture a tool from scratch. This is why you see other companies contract with large tool manufactures to bring out an existing tool only with their own branding colors and names. Great question. Thank you for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
I bought a Wen 5" da. Never used a polisher before, it seems ok, any thoughts?
I've seen these, probably tested them, from memory, they're pretty weak to try and do paint correction. What you want to do is mark the side of your buffing pad and then when using it on the highest speed setting - look to see if you're able to maintain pad rotation and pad oscillation. If you can - then you can use it to remove swirls and scratches. If not - then we call tools that can't do paint correction - Wax Spreaders".
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
I just got the Harbor Fright Long throw for $60.00 with a coupon. Now I see you saying it's not great for beginners. With that said, I'll pay extra attention and start on my oldest car. I'm generally pretty handy and I think I'll catch on. Love your videos!
First, thanks for watching and commenting.
Second - Sound like you bought the HF Long Stroke *BEFORE* watching this video. It's all good. I'm sure their 20mm Long Stroke free spinning random orbital polisher will work great on larger, flatter panels, it will just struggle to maintain pad rotation when buffing out curves.
Your purchase is why I included the 20mm in this video, I wasn't recommending, it I was just sharing it so when people that watch this video go to HF and see BOTH polishers, no one will think I wasn't aware of it.
Heck even the 6" Harbor Freight polisher I recommend for a budget, entry level polisher struggles with maintaining pad rotation and pad oscillation and it's a 8mm short stroke polisher.
They real key to getting great results from any polisher is to put some time behind the tool. -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing I've used the 20mm and it's ok but i find it really loud and it has a lot of vibration because of the 20mm throw. I almost prefer a rotary over a da at least for heavy cutting.
@@faststang85 - I hear you brother. When I need to do heavy paint correction or like in the example I shared on my Facebook and Instagram pages, removing sanding scratches after sanding down a car to remove orange peel, I always use a rotary polisher and follow with an orbital polisher.
Because this video, and the matching article, (see below), is targeted at beginners, I think it's safer to start an absolute newbie out with a simple DA polisher and as they become comfortable with machine paint correction and gain some experience, then let them jump up to a rotary.
I teach the rotary polisher as the FIRST tool my students learn in our classes. It's a vital skill to possess. But in this context, I limited the tools to orbital polishers. There will be plenty of rotary polisher videos and articles in the future.
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
@@mikephillipsrealworlddetailing thanks for the response! I've known who you are for years now but I never knew you had a yt page. I'm slowly going through your videos. What I'd like to get better at is knowing what pads are best to use with what compound as there are many different types that say they're for finishing, polishing etc. I'd call myself decent at buffing but im no pro and I think my biggest struggle has been with getting swirls out completely and light as sometimes the paint will look great from one direction and the other I'll see defects still also i tend to use more product than i see others use when ive tried with less i have trouble getting defects out.
@@faststang85 - Totally get it. We have a video coming up on buffing pads. I'm in the process of acquiring a LOT of the best and different types of pads on the market. Stay tuned. This will be a LIVE broadcast video, and also an article.
Below is the link to all our LIVE broadcast videos, and these are interesting, because you never know what's going to happen when you go LIVE. Plus, you can interact in REAL TIME if you're able to watch. The good news is all our LIVE classes are archived here on the Dr. Beasly's UA-cam Channel.
*LIVE - UNEDITED Video Classes*
www.youtube.com/@DrBeasleys/streams
Mike