I think some of the trouble of positioning the holders would be solved by storing your plywood on some scraps of wood to elevate the bottom edge from the floor. I think that’s good practice in general, especially if your working or storing wood in a sub level place like a basement or garage where there’s a chance of moisture or water on the floor that can wick up into your wood.
These are so creative for you younger fellas with strong backs. I have had the number 5 carrier for some time, but even that was so difficult for an old man like me. I finally had to bite the bullet and get the Woodcraft Panel Cart that rolls around vertically and folds horizontally to a height that is close to my table height. It’s also easy to fold it horizontally when offloading sheets from my truck. Great storage for multiple panels when I’m just storing as well. Thanks again for the creative videos!
Moving 4 X 8 sheets have always been a pain so thanks for breaking down the best ways to get it done.We always look forward to Thursday mornings to see another one of your great videos!
I’m a 72 year old cabinetmaker. Seems to me you made this a lot more complicated than need be. I have used tool #1 for years and find it works perfectly and simply. First off, I don’t store my plywood on the long side, l stand it up on end. At any given time I probably have 15 to 20 plus sheets in my shop standing on end. Standing on end takes up less space and allows for easier accessible. A good bit of my plywood is pre-finished so care in storage and movement is essential. . I have scrap pieces of plywood laid out on a concrete floor perpendicular to a corner wall where I lean my plywood up and on those scraps to inhibit moisture penetration. I also separate sizes (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1”) and types with 4x8 cardboard to minimize damage to finished faces. I’ve rigged a support off the adjacent back wall some 90” plus/minus above the floor and approx. 36” to 49” off the wall where the plywood is leaning. This allows for me to lean sheets up against the support to sort through and access the particular piece I might need. Sorry to go on so long, I think you get the picture.
I own two each of your #1 & #5 plywood carriers, and definitely prefer #5. Some versions of the shoulder plywood carrier are smooth on the clamping surface, so they prevent surface marring. Nice to know about the other methods.
For the last 30 years I hav e used a length of cord with a 8inch length of thick rubber tubing as a handle ( could use short piece of hose ) to carry heavy parcels, the tubing gives a comfortable grip.
Funny that for the panel lifter it was so hard for you to put the plywood on but then for #3 & 4 which were basically the same thing but d-i-y, you could suddenly lift from the end edge and reach the middle and the on/off issue you focused on so much for the 1st one wasn't mentioned at all 😀 I have the 1st and last lifters and use them both depending on which is closer. The clamp is easier to lift and readjust in case I don't get it in the middle where it balances. That's my biggest issue - if you're not centered the plywood is more unwieldy and wobbly. I liked your d--i-y version using the ratchet clamps as you can set the hooks further apart than the other options and that means you have better balance potential. Gonna have to look at doing that, maybe make a couple of grooved blocks the hooks can fit in so the edge doesn't get the indents you mentioned.
I have an item called a Troller. It’s similar to the panel carrier (#1) but make of steel with 2 four inch wheels on the bottom. It stays on by itself when loaded while you drive the panel around on floors over power cords etc. you only need to lift it for stairs! Try putting down blocks for panels leaning against a wall for knuckle space.
My worst nightmare, having to move plywood! Absolutely hate having to move it around and just forget mdf, talk about heavy and bulky especially 3/4"!!!
Your rope & hook ideas great for me, I have tons of rope around & plenty of options for hooks.and I'm sure feeling the love 😁 God bless you all, be safe & thanks for sharing 👍🏻
A figure-8 knot on a bight is a really simple way to make a really secure loop. The other standard for a fixed loop is the bowline. UA-cam has you covered on learning both. Thanks for this and the previous video on moving plywood. Good, useful tips in both!
And then place them down on their edges over a 2x4, so that the plastic or wood lip just drops to the floor and you don’t have to lift the plywood again to release the board.
Those are some pretty clever solutions! I’ve been meaning to pick up one of those gripper-claw contraptions for a while now. Maybe this is a sign it’s time!
I really like how you found so many options for this shop nuisance. I work alone and moving sheet goods is always a challenge. Between this and the companion video I now have many choices. Lastly I think the last one could be modified to use crubber (cork & rubber sticky back stuff) that is often used in vices to prevent the damage.
Thank you Lincoln, I'm glad this could help you out in the shop. Thought I didn't even think about the cork and rubber idea. That definitely sounds useful.
Excellent video! Thank you for all the options. My previous solution was two guys but I don't have another guy readily available. I used #4 and it worked great. Sure wish you were my neighbor so I could pick your brain for a few thousand other problems.
@@i_am_a_freespiritI I think that would take away the grip the clamp has on the wood and it could slide out. A piece of thick patterned rubber fixed to the clamp would be the best non-marring solution.
I just tried the cargo strap as you demonstrated. Fought to get the hooks on. too much trouble. Took the cargo strap and went around the 48" width, near the center and hooked the hooks together. ratchet it up leaving the ratchet about a foot or so near the bottom edge. Give it a couple snug clicks then slip your hand under the strap, below the ratchet and grab the ratchet. Worked better than the hammer or rope method.
It looks like you tied something that looks like 2 half hitches. That knot slides. There are a number of really simple knots to make loops that don’t slip. Take a quick loop on the internet for figure 8 knot for climbing it would be great for this and super simple
Myself came across some ply boards the other week in someone’s shed up on the mountain so I borrowed them haha but carrying them back to my shed that is about 300 yards away was no fun especially over grassy mounds and fighting the wind but I got them all now to make a new chicken coop.
I have and use #1 a lot with drywall, and you just need to lift the panel up and rest it on something in the same way you rested it on your foot (to be completely fair: resting it on my foot was also the first thing I tried, but quickly dismissed because 1/2 the weight of a plywood or drywall panel going across your toes is really not a pleasant experience). That "something" doesn't need to be attached to your leg, but IMHO it is good for it to have some "cushion" to it to avoid marring the edge of the panel. In my case, I usually have a short (!2-inches tall) cardboard box to rest the corner of the panel on while I get the tool positioned underneath, then lift again and kick away the box to bring the panel down to rest on the tool. It *would* be nice if those tools just stood on their own so you could lift the panel onto it. But, I also have had luck with laying it down and setting the panel on the "wrong" part of it, then lifting the tool, which quickly scoots the panel over to the cradle where it is supposed to rest. The risk there is marring and compressing the edge of the panel when it slides along the tool though, so I went to using the short cardboard box instead. For setting it down, I use the opposite of above: go to one corner, lift a little bit, then either swing the panel just enough to knock the tool over (doesn't take much) and then lift it over the on-its-side tool, or set that corner up on a temporary support, remove the tool, and then set it back on the ground.
Slip knots are not so good. Tried a bowline knot. It's easy and will not slip. I got the 1st one. It's not as bad as you described. LOL. Pick up one end and pivot in and out of the tool.
I was thinking, the last gripper you showed might work at the Home Center. They have the plywood laying in stacks and you have to pick it up to drag it out. That gripper would give you a handle to pull it out and reposition it after you tip it up to put on the cart
For the diy with the rope / metal hook / dowel, you should check once in a while to make sure the metal hook didn’t cut into the rope and cause it to break and accidentally dropping the plywood on your foot, 😐 Great video as always 😃
I have the #1 which works better than you make it look. You could epoxy or screw something on the edge to make yours stand up. I have a #5 that is made for iron. I haven't tried it on sheets but I can easily pickup and carry 8 or 10 feet of angle iron or flat steel without much effort. It is made of aluminum but not quite wide enough for 3/4" plywood. Found it at a pawn shop for $10. Also made a heavy duty dolly for plywood or doors etc. that works great.
Great Job on both videos, SLC! Funny I just picked up one of the "Yellow" ones the other day...like you said, OK for $10, could use some work. Think the top carriers are my next option but would like to have something to get them in and out of the truck easier...Any Ideas? At seven decades its a bit more challenging. ;-P Thanks for all your great service to the community!
I have #1 and #5 but I only tend to use 5, my version came with a grippy rubber on the jaws. I used it to move around 6 sheets of 18mm and 6 sheets of 12 mm ply (equiv to 3/4 and 1/2 inch) when rebuilding my wood shed, it left no visible marks and carried everything perfectly.
I think some of the trouble of positioning the holders would be solved by storing your plywood on some scraps of wood to elevate the bottom edge from the floor. I think that’s good practice in general, especially if your working or storing wood in a sub level place like a basement or garage where there’s a chance of moisture or water on the floor that can wick up into your wood.
These are so creative for you younger fellas with strong backs. I have had the number 5 carrier for some time, but even that was so difficult for an old man like me. I finally had to bite the bullet and get the Woodcraft Panel Cart that rolls around vertically and folds horizontally to a height that is close to my table height. It’s also easy to fold it horizontally when offloading sheets from my truck. Great storage for multiple panels when I’m just storing as well. Thanks again for the creative videos!
I had no idea there was an easier way to move sheets of plywood and drywall around! Thanks so much for sharing.
Moving 4 X 8 sheets have always been a pain so thanks for breaking down the best ways to get it done.We always look forward to Thursday mornings to see another one of your great videos!
Thank you so much. I hope the two of you are doing well.
I’m a 72 year old cabinetmaker. Seems to me you made this a lot more complicated than need be. I have used tool #1 for years and find it works perfectly and simply. First off, I don’t store my plywood on the long side, l stand it up on end. At any given time I probably have 15 to 20 plus sheets in my shop standing on end. Standing on end takes up less space and allows for easier accessible. A good bit of my plywood is pre-finished so care in storage and movement is essential. . I have scrap pieces of plywood laid out on a concrete floor perpendicular to a corner wall where I lean my plywood up and on those scraps to inhibit moisture penetration. I also separate sizes (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1”) and types with 4x8 cardboard to minimize damage to finished faces. I’ve rigged a support off the adjacent back wall some 90” plus/minus above the floor and approx. 36” to 49” off the wall where the plywood is leaning. This allows for me to lean sheets up against the support to sort through and access the particular piece I might need.
Sorry to go on so long, I think you get the picture.
I own two each of your #1 & #5 plywood carriers, and definitely prefer #5. Some versions of the shoulder plywood carrier are smooth on the clamping surface, so they prevent surface marring. Nice to know about the other methods.
For the last 30 years I hav e used a length of cord with a 8inch length of thick rubber tubing as a handle ( could use short piece of hose ) to carry heavy parcels, the tubing gives a comfortable grip.
Thank you for showing us all of these options. I really like your diy.
Funny that for the panel lifter it was so hard for you to put the plywood on but then for #3 & 4 which were basically the same thing but d-i-y, you could suddenly lift from the end edge and reach the middle and the on/off issue you focused on so much for the 1st one wasn't mentioned at all 😀 I have the 1st and last lifters and use them both depending on which is closer. The clamp is easier to lift and readjust in case I don't get it in the middle where it balances. That's my biggest issue - if you're not centered the plywood is more unwieldy and wobbly. I liked your d--i-y version using the ratchet clamps as you can set the hooks further apart than the other options and that means you have better balance potential. Gonna have to look at doing that, maybe make a couple of grooved blocks the hooks can fit in so the edge doesn't get the indents you mentioned.
I have an item called a Troller. It’s similar to the panel carrier (#1) but make of steel with 2 four inch wheels on the bottom. It stays on by itself when loaded while you drive the panel around on floors over power cords etc. you only need to lift it for stairs! Try putting down blocks for panels leaning against a wall for knuckle space.
My worst nightmare, having to move plywood! Absolutely hate having to move it around and just forget mdf, talk about heavy and bulky especially 3/4"!!!
Have you considered storing the plywood on a couple of bits of 2x4? You could more easily get under the wood when lifting it.
You read my mind. Been looking for the best way to move plywood and drywall by myself.
Kreg makes one like the #5 and it has smooth jaws. I’ve had no issue with slipping. One of my favorite purchases.
I use the "Gator Lift", same as the last tool but has smooth rubber in the jaws. And as always, great video!
Great to know, thank you
I have the Gator Lift also. Works great!
Your rope & hook ideas great for me, I have tons of rope around & plenty of options for hooks.and I'm sure feeling the love 😁
God bless you all, be safe & thanks for sharing 👍🏻
Thank you Anthony
A figure-8 knot on a bight is a really simple way to make a really secure loop. The other standard for a fixed loop is the bowline. UA-cam has you covered on learning both.
Thanks for this and the previous video on moving plywood. Good, useful tips in both!
Thanks for the info!
The #1 can be easily diy-ed with some scrap plywood to fit your exact comfortable posture.
And then place them down on their edges over a 2x4, so that the plastic or wood lip just drops to the floor and you don’t have to lift the plywood again to release the board.
Those are some pretty clever solutions! I’ve been meaning to pick up one of those gripper-claw contraptions for a while now. Maybe this is a sign it’s time!
I really like how you found so many options for this shop nuisance. I work alone and moving sheet goods is always a challenge. Between this and the companion video I now have many choices. Lastly I think the last one could be modified to use crubber (cork & rubber sticky back stuff) that is often used in vices to prevent the damage.
Thank you Lincoln, I'm glad this could help you out in the shop.
Thought I didn't even think about the cork and rubber idea. That definitely sounds useful.
Excellent video! Thank you for all the options. My previous solution was two guys but I don't have another guy readily available. I used #4 and it worked great. Sure wish you were my neighbor so I could pick your brain for a few thousand other problems.
I love the clamp. I think mines interior is a harder rubber though. Either way delicate plywood still might leave a slight indentation.
Can one perhaps use a thin towel to hang over the fine plywood, before attaching the clamp?
@@i_am_a_freespiritI I think that would take away the grip the clamp has on the wood and it could slide out. A piece of thick patterned rubber fixed to the clamp would be the best non-marring solution.
@@i_am_a_freespirit I love it so much if I ever run into that issue I'll buy some neoprene and hope for good results. It's worth trying!
I just tried the cargo strap as you demonstrated.
Fought to get the hooks on. too much trouble.
Took the cargo strap and went around the 48" width, near the center and hooked
the hooks together. ratchet it up leaving the ratchet about a foot or so near the bottom edge.
Give it a couple snug clicks then slip your hand under the strap, below the ratchet and grab the ratchet.
Worked better than the hammer or rope method.
#1 is definitely better for drywall
It looks like you tied something that looks like 2 half hitches. That knot slides. There are a number of really simple knots to make loops that don’t slip. Take a quick loop on the internet for figure 8 knot for climbing it would be great for this and super simple
Quick loop. Nice 😊
@@rta3738 The autocorrect pun, so fun.
Myself came across some ply boards the other week in someone’s shed up on the mountain so I borrowed them haha but carrying them back to my shed that is about 300 yards away was no fun especially over grassy mounds and fighting the wind but I got them all now to make a new chicken coop.
I made a homemade version of #1 works for me.
I have and use #1 a lot with drywall, and you just need to lift the panel up and rest it on something in the same way you rested it on your foot (to be completely fair: resting it on my foot was also the first thing I tried, but quickly dismissed because 1/2 the weight of a plywood or drywall panel going across your toes is really not a pleasant experience). That "something" doesn't need to be attached to your leg, but IMHO it is good for it to have some "cushion" to it to avoid marring the edge of the panel.
In my case, I usually have a short (!2-inches tall) cardboard box to rest the corner of the panel on while I get the tool positioned underneath, then lift again and kick away the box to bring the panel down to rest on the tool.
It *would* be nice if those tools just stood on their own so you could lift the panel onto it. But, I also have had luck with laying it down and setting the panel on the "wrong" part of it, then lifting the tool, which quickly scoots the panel over to the cradle where it is supposed to rest. The risk there is marring and compressing the edge of the panel when it slides along the tool though, so I went to using the short cardboard box instead.
For setting it down, I use the opposite of above: go to one corner, lift a little bit, then either swing the panel just enough to knock the tool over (doesn't take much) and then lift it over the on-its-side tool, or set that corner up on a temporary support, remove the tool, and then set it back on the ground.
Wear steel capped safety boots then rest sheet thereon....
Slip knots are not so good. Tried a bowline knot. It's easy and will not slip. I got the 1st one. It's not as bad as you described. LOL. Pick up one end and pivot in and out of the tool.
Just store the plywood on scraps of wood to elevate the bottom edge. Also helps protect most of the bottom edge from damage contacting the floor.
@@johndoe6032 Actually I do that. Always have 2x4 on bottom. So the tool gets in and out easily.
Thank you so much for this Video 🙂
I was thinking, the last gripper you showed might work at the Home Center. They have the plywood laying in stacks and you have to pick it up to drag it out. That gripper would give you a handle to pull it out and reposition it after you tip it up to put on the cart
That's a great idea! Thank you Bruce
For the diy with the rope / metal hook / dowel, you should check once in a while to make sure the metal hook didn’t cut into the rope and cause it to break and accidentally dropping the plywood on your foot, 😐
Great video as always 😃
Great point! Thank you.
I have the #1 which works better than you make it look. You could epoxy or screw something on the edge to make yours stand up. I have a #5 that is made for iron. I haven't tried it on sheets but I can easily pickup and carry 8 or 10 feet of angle iron or flat steel without much effort. It is made of aluminum but not quite wide enough for 3/4" plywood. Found it at a pawn shop for $10. Also made a heavy duty dolly for plywood or doors etc. that works great.
Thanks!
Why couldn't you lift the plywood for the first panel carrier the same way you did for the rope and hook? 🤔 Did you get stronger by then?
The nr 4 diy. Two hooks on a bar and rope too each end.
Thanks! Handy video
Great Job on both videos, SLC! Funny I just picked up one of the "Yellow" ones the other day...like you said, OK for $10, could use some work. Think the top carriers are my next option but would like to have something to get them in and out of the truck easier...Any Ideas? At seven decades its a bit more challenging. ;-P Thanks for all your great service to the community!
Getting them in and out of the truck is definitely a challenge. I wish I had something for you but unfortunately not.
Try using a thin towel hung over the delicate plywood, BEFORE attaching the clamp...would that work?
I think the towel might slip out too easy.
On #5 you should put heavy felt on the Jaws to prevent wood damage
Maybe, but I think the roughness helps hold the plywood.
I have #1 and #5 but I only tend to use 5, my version came with a grippy rubber on the jaws. I used it to move around 6 sheets of 18mm and 6 sheets of 12 mm ply (equiv to 3/4 and 1/2 inch) when rebuilding my wood shed, it left no visible marks and carried everything perfectly.
Why not store your sheet materials on two blocks !
Obviously this guy doesn't Cary heavy things often.
What the rope carry one put a pool noodle in the center of the rope pick it up.
#6- A couple of teenagers to do the carrying!
LOL
The last one would NOT be good for drywall, where the first one would. The hooks or the rope would probably not be good for drywall, either.
It’s perfect for Sheetrock actually
Just use a hay hook
We use claw hammer or a crow bar. Tools you already have on hand
I’m shocked you didn’t make one out of PVC.
I don't make much with PVC anymore
I noticed you had long clamps , why did you not use them … cheaper because you already own some …
They are long, but not long enough for a full sheet of plywood
@@SpecificLove7 could link 3 together ?
Lil over dramatic on #1 much? 😆 🤣
Looks like one of those late night commercials!
🙂 just trying to get the point across
Looked like OJ SIMPSON trying NOT put gloves on his hand in court.
The overacting was worthy of RONCO commercial.
You won't see any of those gadgets on a framing crew .
In most cases you would be right, but I'm trying to help the average person who rarely does this.
👍