There is NO WAY I could have had the lovely garden I had this last season without GS videos and training! I especially love the confidence I gained from his tutelage. Many thanks Scott!
It's like you are reading my mind! I just emailed my local extension office today about pruning my Pawpaw trees! Very timely and informative. Thank you for another wonderful video.
This video has me very encouraged to wisely prune early after planting. As Scott has said, pruning is a wee painful. But with his wonderful teaching, I’m very encouraged and have subscribed to continue creating a healthy and beautiful mini-orchard.
Scott you have no idea how timely this video is for me as I have just planted 4 little bare root fruit trees. I went back and watched the one you linked at the end too, when you first planted them. I’m so grateful because now I know exactly what I have to do with mine! 🎉🎉🎉 you are fabulous!
I knew about the 3 Ds, I like your addition of the fourth D. While I prune for shape and direct branching by selecting buds that seem to point where I hope they will go, adding it to the D rule is pretty good gardening.
Another excellent video! I got "Grow A Little Fruit Tree" over the holidays (thank you for the recommendation!), and planted bare root apricot, peach, plum, and pomegranate trees. I've pruned half of them very aggressively, but left the peach and apricot larger than I wanted. My wife couldn't bear to see me cut them down to the ~18 inches that would make a nice, low scaffold. I've been boning up on my pruning technique, so this video is very well-timed!
@14:40 In my experience, plum trees are notorious for sending out growth where you don't want it. As they mature you'll find new trees trying to grow from the sprawling roots of the main tree. It almost makes me glad that borers took out most of my plum trees a few years ago.
Thank you for the pruning instruction. Your explanations are always clear and precise. I am getting 2 pluot trees this spring and its been a long time since I pruned a tree of any kind.
Always love GS informative videos. This winter I planted 5 mini dwarf fruit trees along the edge of my property. 1 Granny Smith, 2 Spartan, 1 crabapple, 1 gala. Planning on them pollinating each other. I chose somewhat 2 dimensional young trees. Put in posts and am in the process of wires, turnbuckles, and pruning to make them all espalier. Been wanting to do this for a long time. This video was a good reminder at this time. Thank for all your work!
Nice informative video. I have a lot of pruning to do after our freeze we had in Houston a few weeks ago. I already did some but need to do more. I was afraid to cut too much the first time.
I hope you do a follow up video when the trees are growing to show us the progress. I'd be afraid of killing my tree with such heavy pruning. It would help some of us to gain confidence by seeing the improvement with your detailed explanations. I appreciate all this knowledge because I have a new blueberry bush thst suffered some heavy damage from a construction worker from a big project we had done this winter. I also have some apple trees that are young so we haven't done anything to them yet .
Today I pruned several of my young fruit trees, most for the first time. I remembered your words about looking at the tree and then making the decision. I had done that ,one time already, to a persimmon and made my choice. Then considering again what you had advised, I stopped and looked at it for a longer time I saw a different path that I believe was a much better choice. Thank you !!
I have lemon trees that I've started growing from seeds last year. They still have green steams, so are they too young for pruning? I live in a climate where the trees won't do well outdoors so these will be and have been indoor trees if that changes anything.
Does the same pruning principle work for bushes. Such as blueberry bushes. One of my bushes has lots of branches and what looks like the start of another bush coming us out of the soil
It is different for most bushes and it depends on the bush. Blueberries usually fruit on one-year-old wood so random pruning may cut off fruiting wood. Older wood can be pruned out.
The crab apple was the perfect difficult pruning example--very good! When pruning the dead peach tips are you concerned which direction the next bud is facing? Are these trees dwarfs? All great examples of keeping an open center by paying attention to branching. I learned today from a grower that it is possible to keep height of standards manageable on not only apple, but peach trees. Thank you.
@@GardenerScott I am studying up on rootstock used. I just purchased dwarf apples to try growing on a wire system where they are planted 5' apart. These are B9 stock. The 2 peach trees of past didn't make it. I read about Guardian rootstock which appears to be hardy. I think I will try a standard peach. I've read nematodes in sand is a problem in TX and wondered if that was the problem I had here in WI zone 5a? Not sure what rootstock to get.
Fantastic video with great information! This will help me in my own orchard. One note, please work on focusing the camera on the buds/branches anything that you are trying to show. (this was most notable on the first fruit tree in the back yard)
I was watching a video of yours a wile back and You were hand pollinating a summer squash and mentioned The first day a female blossom opened. Did you mean that the only time it will pollinate is on the first day the blossom opens (not the second or third, rain or shine}? I have had squash fail to complete pollination now and then for many years and now that we only have 700-800 s.f. of vegetable garden I would be willing to do this to improve yield per. s.f.. Thanks for information you can offer that will clear this up. Mike from Maryland
Yes, a female flower will only pollinate in its first day of opening. Rain and heat are some factors that can hinder pollination and the flower can't be expected to pollinate in the second or third day.
@@michaelmorgan5714 The female flowers will only stay open one day then they look wilted. If I don't have any male flowers handy I cut the one day old female flower and young squash off, sauté it in butter and eat it. They are tasty.
Not sure if you mentioned, but when pruning a branch, limb or leader you need to be aware of the direction of the next growth bud below the intended cut. Generally you want the growth to be away from center and from neighboring limbs. Fruit trees like open centers and branching that does little shading of limbs below. Love the vids.
Hi Scott. I have just ordered a dual fruit tree. Two varieties of pear on one trunk. Can I put it straight into a big tub or should I use a smaller one for the first year?
This video was really good! I have some semi-dwarf fruit trees. They only had semi-dwarf for replacing prior trees. What are the chances of keeping them pruned to keep them closer in size to dwarf tree sizes? Thanks!
I’m in zone 9 and some of my fruit trees from last year are looking pretty dead. Should I be scared of cutting off too much? It’s already 85 here, is that too late to prune them? Can we have an update on these fruit trees you pruned in this video? So many questions 😊
Over pruning can create problems for stressed trees. You might want to focus on just removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches. I will be making update videos as the trees grow.
A couple of my fruit trees have damage on the base looks like animals were using them as a scratching post one looks like something bit it any suggestions on what I can wrap them with to prevent it and help heal it Thanks
My apple tree is on its second year in my garden but it will my first year pruning. Yet it’s an espalier 6 different apples so I’m not sure how to prune I. 🙋🏻♀️🤷♀️
It's important that you know which branches correspond to which varieties. If you prune off the entire branch you will probably lose that variety. In Espalier you prune more for shaping and may not need to do more than pruning tips and disorderly branches.
Is there a reason you cut the 45 degree angle AWAY from the bud that you want new growth instead of towards it? Been looking everything. You said to make the 45 away but not why. Curious if there is a reason. Thanks!
You advised pruning the unwanted branches as close to the collar as possible, will this stop new branches from growing in the same spot? Will pruning 1"-2" above the collar promote new branch growth? Do the pruned area need to be painted to seal the wound to prevent ants or other pests to feed on the open area, especially for larger trees where the pruned branches are 3" in diameter or thicker?
Once the branch is pruned past buds it will not regrow. A 1"-2" branch won't grow and as it dries can provide an entrance to pest and disease. When a branch is pruned close to the trunk, the branch collar will continue to grow and surround the cut to keep out pests and disease. Painted is not necessary.
@@GardenerScott As the pruned area dries can provide an entrance to pest and disease - then wouldn't painting the cut area to seal the would be a good practice?
What if you planted a fruit tree about 4 years ago and now realize you don't want it there and don't like it. This plum tree, which is the first fruit tree I ever planted is ugly most of the time, the young leaves are all crinkly then as it grows out more leaves the leaf cutter bees chew up most of them and I planted in place where it is going to be too big. I pruned it heavily last summer to keep it smaller. If I cut it down now, in late winter, will that cause it to grow out from the roots? Would it be better to cut it down once it comes out of dormancy? In other words what is the best way to get rid of it?
I love your channel and learn so much however I just want to give my two cents here. I wonder if pruning very young trees are a bit premature? I have had several young trees that had broken branches from heavy snowfall this year. Also some people get deer and rabbit damage. Shouldn't we wait until the tree is a bit bigger and stronger to see what will actually survive before pruning? Had I pruned last year, I'm afraid there wouldn't have been much left to my trees.
It can be a difficult balance. I tend to wait to prune until I see if there is winter and animal damage, which explains why I had so many dead tips on the one tree. But to get good structure and shape, early is often better.
ISA Certified Arborist comment. This is a shocking display of early tree pruning. Removing 75% of canopy foliage in an establishing tree will leave it susceptible to infection and insects, and further delay its settling into its new space as its root zone remains stressed for longer. This tree at the front should have been pruned gradually to achieve the goals, over a number of years. Leaving the branches at the base WOULD NOT weaken this tree, but instead encourage the tree to grow more supporting wood around the branch collars, and subsequently make it stronger in those areas, and to be able to bear more fruit.
There is NO WAY I could have had the lovely garden I had this last season without GS videos and training! I especially love the confidence I gained from his tutelage. Many thanks Scott!
I am digging Gardner Scott! What a treasure of info 👍🏻
It's like you are reading my mind! I just emailed my local extension office today about pruning my Pawpaw trees! Very timely and informative. Thank you for another wonderful video.
This video has me very encouraged to wisely prune early after planting. As Scott has said, pruning is a wee painful. But with his wonderful teaching, I’m very encouraged and have subscribed to continue creating a healthy and beautiful mini-orchard.
Scott you have no idea how timely this video is for me as I have just planted 4 little bare root fruit trees. I went back and watched the one you linked at the end too, when you first planted them. I’m so grateful because now I know exactly what I have to do with mine! 🎉🎉🎉 you are fabulous!
I knew about the 3 Ds, I like your addition of the fourth D. While I prune for shape and direct branching by selecting buds that seem to point where I hope they will go, adding it to the D rule is pretty good gardening.
Thanks Scott, best pruning video I’ve seen. I have saved it for future reference.
Another excellent video! I got "Grow A Little Fruit Tree" over the holidays (thank you for the recommendation!), and planted bare root apricot, peach, plum, and pomegranate trees. I've pruned half of them very aggressively, but left the peach and apricot larger than I wanted. My wife couldn't bear to see me cut them down to the ~18 inches that would make a nice, low scaffold. I've been boning up on my pruning technique, so this video is very well-timed!
Ty, this reminded me to plant the plum seeds in the garden we've been saving.
Great tips Scott and explanations of how and why.
@14:40 In my experience, plum trees are notorious for sending out growth where you don't want it. As they mature you'll find new trees trying to grow from the sprawling roots of the main tree. It almost makes me glad that borers took out most of my plum trees a few years ago.
Thank you for the pruning instruction. Your explanations are always clear and precise. I am getting 2 pluot trees this spring and its been a long time since I pruned a tree of any kind.
I very much enjoy listening to you, and taking notice of your Advice and experience you are an ideal teacher. Many thanks.
I got some apple trees I planted last year, and this video helped me out a lot! I know what I'm doing this weekend, thanks!
Very informative! I need to trime my second year cherry and peach trees and this information you provided is extreamly valuable!
Very good
came back to this video to get info for pruning :) thank you Scott!
Always love GS informative videos. This winter I planted 5 mini dwarf fruit trees along the edge of my property. 1 Granny Smith, 2 Spartan, 1 crabapple, 1 gala. Planning on them pollinating each other. I chose somewhat 2 dimensional young trees. Put in posts and am in the process of wires, turnbuckles, and pruning to make them all espalier. Been wanting to do this for a long time. This video was a good reminder at this time. Thank for all your work!
Nice informative video. I have a lot of pruning to do after our freeze we had in Houston a few weeks ago. I already did some but need to do more. I was afraid to cut too much the first time.
Great tips
I hope you do a follow up video when the trees are growing to show us the progress. I'd be afraid of killing my tree with such heavy pruning. It would help some of us to gain confidence by seeing the improvement with your detailed explanations. I appreciate all this knowledge because I have a new blueberry bush thst suffered some heavy damage from a construction worker from a big project we had done this winter. I also have some apple trees that are young so we haven't done anything to them yet .
I am planning updates in future videos. Keep on watching.
Please see the comment above about the difference between pruning a blueberry bush and fruiting trees (the focus of this particular video)
What a great video. Your teaching effort and spirit are wonderful. Thank you.
Today I pruned several of my young fruit trees, most for the first time. I remembered your words about looking at the tree and then making the decision. I had done that ,one time already, to a persimmon and made my choice. Then considering again what you had advised, I stopped and looked at it for a longer time I saw a different path that I believe was a much better choice. Thank you !!
Thanks for the instructive video. My apple tree will reap the benefits.
I have lemon trees that I've started growing from seeds last year. They still have green steams, so are they too young for pruning? I live in a climate where the trees won't do well outdoors so these will be and have been indoor trees if that changes anything.
Citrus trees don't need much pruning and the trunk should be a few years old before considering it.
Very detailed, thanks! I’ve just planted 5 crabapples!
I have questions you cut of the branches of can you let them root and have another tree?
Yes, propagating from those cuttings can be done.
@@GardenerScott ty so much I will try that
Thank you!
A pruning masterclass! What you call the fourth D has always made me sick with anxiety.
Are you going to save any of the root suckers and make your own root stock?
Yes, I am planning to do that.
ｖｅｒｙ helpful
Does the same pruning principle work for bushes. Such as blueberry bushes. One of my bushes has lots of branches and what looks like the start of another bush coming us out of the soil
It is different for most bushes and it depends on the bush. Blueberries usually fruit on one-year-old wood so random pruning may cut off fruiting wood. Older wood can be pruned out.
The crab apple was the perfect difficult pruning example--very good!
When pruning the dead peach tips are you concerned which direction the next bud is facing?
Are these trees dwarfs?
All great examples of keeping an open center by paying attention to branching.
I learned today from a grower that it is possible to keep height of standards manageable on not only apple, but peach trees.
Thank you.
The direction of the bud does make a difference if you're shaping the tree. My trees are semi-dwarf and young.
@@GardenerScott I am studying up on rootstock used. I just purchased dwarf apples to try growing on a wire system where they are planted 5' apart. These are B9 stock. The 2 peach trees of past didn't make it. I read about Guardian rootstock which appears to be hardy. I think I will try a standard peach. I've read nematodes in sand is a problem in TX and wondered if that was the problem I had here in WI zone 5a? Not sure what rootstock to get.
Should I prune my raspberry as well now? Thank you
It depends on the type of raspberry. Fall-bearing can be pruned now but summer-bearing should not.
Fantastic video with great information! This will help me in my own orchard.
One note, please work on focusing the camera on the buds/branches anything that you are trying to show. (this was most notable on the first fruit tree in the back yard)
I was watching a video of yours a wile back and You were hand pollinating a summer squash and mentioned The first day a female blossom opened. Did you mean that the only time it will pollinate is on the first day the blossom opens (not the second or third, rain or shine}? I have had squash fail to complete pollination now and then for many years and now that we only have 700-800 s.f. of vegetable garden I would be willing to do this to improve yield per. s.f.. Thanks for information you can offer that will clear this up. Mike from Maryland
When I have males only I take a q-tip and gather pollen and freeze it until I have females then I hand pollinate to insure fruit
@@09echols Thank you but my main confusion was if I only had 1 day to get the female pollinated.That was a quick response.
Yes, a female flower will only pollinate in its first day of opening. Rain and heat are some factors that can hinder pollination and the flower can't be expected to pollinate in the second or third day.
@@GardenerScott Thank You I appreciate such a quick response. you probably save me a dozen or more squash this summer.
@@michaelmorgan5714 The female flowers will only stay open one day then they look wilted. If I don't have any male flowers handy I cut the one day old female flower and young squash off, sauté it in butter and eat it. They are tasty.
Not sure if you mentioned, but when pruning a branch, limb or leader you need to be aware of the direction of the next growth bud below the intended cut. Generally you want the growth to be away from center and from neighboring limbs. Fruit trees like open centers and branching that does little shading of limbs below.
Love the vids.
I mention that in the previous video when I first pruned them. Thanks for the reminder.
Hi Scott. I have just ordered a dual fruit tree. Two varieties of pear on one trunk. Can I put it straight into a big tub or should I use a smaller one for the first year?
I suggest putting in the final spot. The tree will do better if you don't do another transplanting.
@@GardenerScott Thanks Scott
This video was really good! I have some semi-dwarf fruit trees. They only had semi-dwarf for replacing prior trees. What are the chances of keeping them pruned to keep them closer in size to dwarf tree sizes? Thanks!
You can do that relatively easily. Summer pruning the branches helps.
@@GardenerScott well good!!Thank you!!!
I’m in zone 9 and some of my fruit trees from last year are looking pretty dead. Should I be scared of cutting off too much? It’s already 85 here, is that too late to prune them? Can we have an update on these fruit trees you pruned in this video? So many questions 😊
Over pruning can create problems for stressed trees. You might want to focus on just removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches. I will be making update videos as the trees grow.
Can you plant those as cuttings?
Yes you can.
@@GardenerScott do you have a video showing that?
Not yet, but I've started filming it.
@@GardenerScott i look forward to it thank you
A couple of my fruit trees have damage on the base looks like animals were using them as a scratching post one looks like something bit it any suggestions on what I can wrap them with to prevent it and help heal it Thanks
You can get white rolls that are designed as tree wrap around the trunk.
My apple tree is on its second year in my garden but it will my first year pruning. Yet it’s an espalier 6 different apples so I’m not sure how to prune I. 🙋🏻♀️🤷♀️
It's important that you know which branches correspond to which varieties. If you prune off the entire branch you will probably lose that variety. In Espalier you prune more for shaping and may not need to do more than pruning tips and disorderly branches.
Is there a reason you cut the 45 degree angle AWAY from the bud that you want new growth instead of towards it? Been looking everything. You said to make the 45 away but not why. Curious if there is a reason. Thanks!
One reason is to provide water drainage away from the bud in wet areas to help reduce a chance of rot.
@@GardenerScott thanks for the response! That makes sense
What is the best time to prune an apple tree that is out of control and very large
Prune in winter to develop a structure you want.
You advised pruning the unwanted branches as close to the collar as possible, will this stop new branches from growing in the same spot? Will pruning 1"-2" above the collar promote new branch growth? Do the pruned area need to be painted to seal the wound to prevent ants or other pests to feed on the open area, especially for larger trees where the pruned branches are 3" in diameter or thicker?
Once the branch is pruned past buds it will not regrow. A 1"-2" branch won't grow and as it dries can provide an entrance to pest and disease. When a branch is pruned close to the trunk, the branch collar will continue to grow and surround the cut to keep out pests and disease. Painted is not necessary.
@@GardenerScott As the pruned area dries can provide an entrance to pest and disease - then wouldn't painting the cut area to seal the would be a good practice?
@@mikefa5891 It's actually the opposite. A dry cut heals faster. The paint keeps it moist, locks in bacteria, and promotes rot.
I also have a plum tree that loves to grow suckers off the rootstock...is there any way to discoursge this?
It's common in plums. They often grow more when the tree is stressed so try to keep the tree happy.
Do you believe zucchine and pumpkins should not be nearby because it may occur the crosso pollination?
Thanks
It is okay if they cross pollinate if you don't save the seeds.
I grow lemon and preach trees grow for fun
What if you planted a fruit tree about 4 years ago and now realize you don't want it there and don't like it. This plum tree, which is the first fruit tree I ever planted is ugly most of the time, the young leaves are all crinkly then as it grows out more leaves the leaf cutter bees chew up most of them and I planted in place where it is going to be too big. I pruned it heavily last summer to keep it smaller. If I cut it down now, in late winter, will that cause it to grow out from the roots? Would it be better to cut it down once it comes out of dormancy? In other words what is the best way to get rid of it?
I'm not positive but it looked like most of that growth was from below The graft Union if it's a grafted tree which most are now these days
I love your channel and learn so much however I just want to give my two cents here. I wonder if pruning very young trees are a bit premature? I have had several young trees that had broken branches from heavy snowfall this year. Also some people get deer and rabbit damage. Shouldn't we wait until the tree is a bit bigger and stronger to see what will actually survive before pruning? Had I pruned last year, I'm afraid there wouldn't have been much left to my trees.
It can be a difficult balance. I tend to wait to prune until I see if there is winter and animal damage, which explains why I had so many dead tips on the one tree. But to get good structure and shape, early is often better.
Vanakam 🦚🌦
Why not make two more trees by air laying ?
When the trees are bigger I will.
ISA Certified Arborist comment. This is a shocking display of early tree pruning. Removing 75% of canopy foliage in an establishing tree will leave it susceptible to infection and insects, and further delay its settling into its new space as its root zone remains stressed for longer. This tree at the front should have been pruned gradually to achieve the goals, over a number of years. Leaving the branches at the base WOULD NOT weaken this tree, but instead encourage the tree to grow more supporting wood around the branch collars, and subsequently make it stronger in those areas, and to be able to bear more fruit.