Excellent, thorough instructions for espalier. I have been researching this pruning technique for some time and yours does the best job of breaking it down step by step. Many thanks and best wishes to you!
Oh thanks for this. You've taken a lot of the fear out of espalier. One of those "I'd love to but..." things on my list. But you've simplified it right down. Thanks loads for this. Can't wait to see the results. :D
I can't wait to see your progress as the tree grows! I planted a bare root apricot this winter that I am expecting to train into an informal "fan." (Thank you again for the book recommendation of "Grow A Little Fruit Tree"!) I'll be just a year behind you on the tree-training!
Thank you, Gardener Scott!! This is just the info I needed. I received 3 fig trees from HD that had already been cut and wasn't sure how to proceed with the branches that have grown in. Now I see! Appreciate the video :)
I believe if you train your main arms at 45 degrees you get less aggressive shoots. Allowing for more fruiting buds. Trees want to grow up. If you make the branches flat it tries to start new leaders growing straight up.
Very timely, I have apples in their first year, growing from grafted bare roots, they are shooting up to become whips so next year I can start this process. Nice video, saved to my private playlist of apple growing vids.
Many thanks for a brilliant, clear explanation of what to do with my shop-bought, 1-tier espalier Gardener Scott! I now have the courage to try to do the next tier myself. All the best!
This is SO helpful! I wanted to espalier the young apple tree my mom bought but i absoluteley didn't know where to start as all the videos i wsa seeing the trees were already grown. Thank you very much!
As someone who is new to espalier and plans on getting her first fruit trees (bare root) this spring, this video was so helpful, thank you! My trees will be bigger then this one but the general idea is the same I hope. I'm super excited to start my mini orchard this year! I worked hard over the fall to get the space ready for them and its exciting that its finally happening. I have always wanted fruit trees but never had the space, suddenly discovering espalier opened that door for me. This tree is now three(?) years old, I would love to see what it looks like today.
Sadly, my tree was eaten by animals. I replaced it, fenced it for protection, and hope to do an update video soon that will show the next steps in espalier.
Interesting that your left/right buds from last year turned into the verticals, rather than your horizontals. Should one actually have an extra bud or two above the horizontals so the planned horizontals can be trained horizontal?
The top buds will naturally grow vertically as they try to become a central leader. Having a bud or two above the horizontals will promote new vertical branches from those buds. That would allow the horizontals to be tied and trained to a trellis and lessen their vertical growth, but isn't required.
Thank you for doing a two year introduction to this concept. I keep permanent plantings at least 12" away from fence lines for the same reason. Just a foundation question.. What kind of possible structural problems could develop with the tree roots being so close to the foundation? Thanks for responding.. I believe your tree will grow and develop beautifully in that location with much love and attention.
You might also want to soak the tree at times in which case you'd be putting unnecessary water against the foundation. Also if you ever want to take it down, professionals can't stump grind when it's right next to the foundation. I know that from experience 👍🏻
I appreciate the discussion that my question evoked. Both pro and con. That way, those that consider similar placements can make a more informed decision.
Scott, I've been filming all year to show the trellising and pruning. Buuuut, my new dog ate the branches before I could finish filming. Now I'm trying to figure out how to edit and present the video without the finish. ☹
Always interesing to see Espalier, even tho I would not attempt it. It was interesing to see you got 2 foot of growth, ours are about to enter dormancy, and I had planted 2 apples and a stone fruit Sep last year. One of the apples and stone fruit did make the 2 foot mark, the other, in a single year went for about a metre (3 foot) to nearly 2 and a half metres (8 foot), it just exploded, now having to decide how I am going to prune it. But thats a job for July/Aug
Matthew Ferrell I had one McIntosh apple grow 6 feet in one season that is about 2 meters . And two leaders totaling 3 meter total. But that rate of growth is one in a hundred I guess
I pruned my paech and plumtree ecactly like you told is to do having the fout D's in mind. ... ( daeth-damaged-deseasef - and this time a took disorderly specialy in mind ) it made me affraid the first weeks bit box i see the young new grow in this first week of april i am do glad i did it folowing your instuctions . Do glad for your information. I hope you bever stop doing this . TANKS A LOT !
@@jean-pierreposman7282 yes I realized English may not have been your native language but you do a fine job as good as some native English speaker like myself who can't type worth a darn
It depends on the tree. For the most part, old trees won't generate many new buds low on the tree. You might get some on a 3-yr-old tree. A heading cut will generate the most new growth near the cut but should also generate buds to grow lower down.
Yeah but your roots will be the the roots of the scion wood not the rootstock. Oh I'm doing exactly what you are talking about trying to root the cuttings but primarily to grow temporary trees to harvest the scion wood
Space. This, for instance, is an apple tree that will be occupying maybe three feet front to back, 8-10 side-to-side, and 4-6 up. All the fruit is within reach easily, and you could not put a freely growing apple tree in a space that small.
Pruning and training - intelligently guiding your plant - is one of the easiest ways to improve the aesthetics / productivity of a plant. Sometimes, incredibly significantly so. As near as I can tell, all nodal plants sort of respond to the same techniques and stimuli that you've demonstrated in this video. It's funny - foresters, modern stoners, the guys who maintain orchards whatever they are - have all stumbled upon / recycled the same techniques over and over again, likely over millennia. People used to actually plant and maintain trees that they themselves would never see mature / put to purpose. Few would ever do that these days. Which is a shame.
When you cut off one of those large chunks off a whip (we've got some that are 4-5' tall), is there any good prospect of taking that as a cutting to grow another? I don't see why not, but I'm very new to this.
SG25 I have been trying for 4 years to root any cutting with no success. But there are tons of videos that show just that . Its easy . Its foolproof its fast . For me it ain't easy ,foolproof or fast. Particularly apple. Pear? I have had some success. Fig . Fig are suppose to be the easiest of all . It ain't easy or foolproof
This is a message to a viewer not the host . If you are not willing to make that first drastic cut say on a Lowes or home depot tree I have had success with girdling the trunk. That means wrapping a "Zip Tie" or copper wire around the trunk to construct the flow of nutrients from passing beyond the zip-tie . Girdling promotes branching below the girdle. It might take 2 years to see results from the girdling On trees that I did the drastic cut 4 feet to 6 feet ( 2 meters) from the ground and girdle the trunk at 20 inches 50 centimeters from the ground i got vigorous branching my third growing season after planting I like low horizontal branches because I want 3 level of espalier no higher than 8 feet that about 2 &1/2 meter tall
I planted some apple trees today. 5 are barefoot and mostly a stick straight up. 5 are 1 gallon with some branches. Do I make the cut this year or wait until next winter?
The initial cut can be made when they're still dormant. If you want that initial branching to be higher you can let them grow taller this year and make that heading cut next year.
Gardener Scott, I planted 2 dwarf peach trees..it is suppose to have a couple more freezing nights possibly tonight.it has buds but one has a couple leaves on it, do I cover it with a sheet? Or is it OK?
The buds are much more resilient then the young greens that emerge. I think you're ok if your only seeing buds. But I'd cover any young tender growth 👍🏻
Hi Gardener Scott. Great video and I love to learn about growing fruit trees. I’m in zone 7b and I want to grow paw paw tree. I told a local private seller that I learned these trees do not self pollinate and she told me they are species tree grown from seed and that’s key to pollination. She sounds like she doesn’t know what she is saying because she doesn’t know about the different varieties within a fruit tree. Should I avoid purchasing.
Hi, Krystal. Paw paw trees are self-infertile which means you will need at least two different trees to get fruit. It really has nothing to do with seed or how they're grown. You might consider a different source for your trees so you know you'll get different varieties.
I bought several fruit trees from Starks. And they had all the info on which make good pollinating partners. Also review and space out the harvest months so you don't get all the fruit at once. 👍🏻
Hi Scott. Why don't you just prune them in the summer as they vigorously grow? Wouldn't that nip the problem of incorrect growth in the bud, so to speak?
It may be too late depending on your goal. Winter pruning encourages new growth. After the plant is actively growing, pruning tends to reduce the amount of growth.
@@GardenerScott yes after the leaves form in the spring if I heavily prune a newly bought tree it stunts their growth for one or two growing seasons . One of my problems is I cant just go down to a big box store and buy a whip What Lowes sells are ten foot tall trees with thick trucks in the early spring they are typically $24 in late spring they are more in the $30 range in my area bare root whips are as rare as hens teeth ( eastern seaboard Manassas Va.) I see out west in UA-cam videos barefoot trees are every where jamming up the Home depot garden center. WALMART for the first time had 6 barefoot trees and I bought them all my first whips unknown apple variety because the packaging was so sunbleached the labeling was unreadable 3 have leafed out & 3 haven't one of the have-nots i put in to air bubbling water filled container that has leafed out but there are no fine roots and I'm sure it not going to make it I just got wind of a nursery . Every thing is in Washington, Oregon Raintree Williamete nursery. And Willow Drive nursery. At Willow Drive i can get whips or near whips for about $10 to $13 apiece minimum order 30 trees not including shipping . Williamette nursery buy a bundle of Russian seedling rootstock 50 trees to a bundle at $ 1.24 But you see i have to commit 3 or 4 hundred dollars at one time the prince of 2 Chinese red maples currently at Lowes. Yes 300 dollars is a good deal . Or do able deal
@@GardenerScott well anyhow this is a very good explanation of how to construct an espalier . Two other channel s Excelsior Farms & and an Australian high density orchard are two other good instructions for espalier tech. In a commercial orchard goal typically call 4 leader UFO training ( Upright Fruiting Offshoot) Mike Kincaid has an excellent. Well a really good video on how to recognize a basal bud during the sunnertime to develop fruiting spurs for the following year . I would look forward to you take on how to prune for fruiting spurs or buds . I not 95 ,% clear on that . More like a seat of the pants understanding . Why would a vertical leader, off of a cordon branch produce fruit spurs but no fruit spurs grow on a central leader trained tree like in a columnar tree? . Dont answer me now make a video of it in the future I have plenty of time to waite
My apples and pear espalier are in their first spring/summer after planting them in late winter. The first tier is growing well. Its now mid summer. I have some branch growth coming off the two trained laterals and some off the central leader. Should I be summer pruning in the first year on my first tier laterals? Is mid summer too late for that? I have one pear which has produced a few laterals off the central leader at a tier two height. Should I train those now or is it best to cut the central leader back in winter to start the next tier from fresh? Thanks
Summer pruning tends to promote bushier growth, while winter pruning is better for structural growth. Generally, plan the first couple years for winter pruning. After a few years, summer pruning can be used to develop fruiting spurs.
Is it possible to espalier a fruit tree that is in the range of being a 5 gallon tree? Can you still prune the branches in the winter to get it where you want?
I was planning that and shot some footage, but an animal ate my tree. I'll start over this year and protect it. It will be another couple years before I can show the year two video.
@@GardenerScott Sorry, that is what I meant. I have cuttings I am growing and they are small right now but are not dwarf varieties. Thank you for the reply. :)
@@GardenerScott ah, will you be doing a video on column& ballerina trees? The website I wanted to buy trees from had a couple apple and peer trees in that shape & 1 cherry version, although they said the cherry isn't a 'true' colomn tree but it's not branching a lot. I wasn't sure if I wanted to cash out more money for it because I'm not sure if it's a specific bred variety (that doesn't branch a lot and bears fruit on the short branches) or if it's a way to prune the tree; if it's the later I'd love a guide how to maintain it and create it 🙈 Their guide said that if the trees are plantes 0,5m away from each other they will form a nice fruit hedge (I thought that was a bit close to plant trees)
Maybe. For shaping a small tree or whip, winter pruning stimulates new branches to grow. If there are already branches on your tree you can prune some of the growth. Summer pruning won't promote new branch growth but can cause new leaf growth. It depends on the shape you want and if you need new branches.
@@GardenerScott Im in a similar predicament here in Australia I just purchased and received 6 bare rooted apple trees and planted them. Now a few months on they are all greened up, about 3 weeks off Summer could I possibly still trim off the top of them this week? or best to wait now until next winter?
@@colleenmcclure366 Pruning at different times of year achieves different things. Winter pruning is best to develop the structure (skeleton) of the tree. Pruning in summer can help keep the tree small but promotes bushiness.
That's a real shame!!! Good luck with the new one! I planted a one year old apple tree whip and was wondering if I have to prune at the first wire? It has just broken dormancy but I have perfect buds at the first and second wires so could I leave it as it is? Cheers
Gardener Scott, is it possible to espalier standard size, or MM111 apple trees in a horizontal system but with longer laterals like 8' long on each side of the trunk? I unfortunately live along the clay banks of the James River in Virginia and besides the first 8" of topsoil, it's all clay 15' deep. I've tried 2'tall raised beds but after a few years of stress , the Bud 9 and M7 rootstocks reach the clay and they eventually rot. I've been told by several commercial nursery fruit tree companies that a seedling rootstock or a MM111 rootstock will work with heavy clay soils.
You should be able to. Pruning the tree will reduce the size of root growth as well. It may take years of experimentation, but you should be able to find the right size of espalier to avoid the rot.
Hello Scott, I’m planning on starting espalier trees along a wall in my garden (the wall isn’t for a house - it’s merely a garden wall). I plan on keeping them 5-6’ tall. Would it be okay for me to plant semi-dwarf fruit trees along this wall as long as I prune them often? My main concern is the roots - will they be damaged or negatively influenced by the wall? I ask because I’m having a hard time finding specific varieties of affordable dwarf trees. I can find dwarf tree options, but they are a little out of my budget in comparison to the semi-dwarf options.
Semi-dwarf root systems are smaller than standard trees and as long as they're about 12-18 inches or more from the wall there should be enough room for them. My apple tree is a semi-dwarf that is that far from the wall and keeping it small should keep the roots in check too.
@@GardenerScott Sorry to hear that. I'm trying to start 3 trees into espalier form, did the first cut last winter and I am thinking I need to start training the first horizontal branches this summer, so they don't begin to harden, but not sure if I can wait until it goes dormant.
I chose a semi-dwarf tree with a smaller root stock, planted away from the foundation, and will keep the tree pruned to a small size. The roots should not pose a problem.
I got ground hog s but no rabbit or deer . I'm in pretty good shape as far as trees but the ground hog decimated the vegetable garden . I just grow for the fun of it . Fruits and veg are cheap enough at the store
Thankyou, this was very helpful.
You're a very good teacher.
Excellent, thorough instructions for espalier. I have been researching this pruning technique for some time and yours does the best job of breaking it down step by step. Many thanks and best wishes to you!
Looks great! It will be fun watching the progress on that tree!
Wonderful snipbit 🤣🤙🏽
Looking forward to see this tree take shape. I would love regular updates how you prune both in winter and after summer.
Oh thanks for this. You've taken a lot of the fear out of espalier. One of those "I'd love to but..." things on my list. But you've simplified it right down. Thanks loads for this.
Can't wait to see the results. :D
Love your knowledge and your calm voice 😊
I can't wait to see your progress as the tree grows! I planted a bare root apricot this winter that I am expecting to train into an informal "fan." (Thank you again for the book recommendation of "Grow A Little Fruit Tree"!) I'll be just a year behind you on the tree-training!
Thank you, Gardener Scott!! This is just the info I needed. I received 3 fig trees from HD that had already been cut and wasn't sure how to proceed with the branches that have grown in. Now I see! Appreciate the video :)
Looking forward to the next update on this in late winter!
Great stuff! I am looking into doing 1-3 espalier trees next year! Looking forward to seeing updates on yours! Thanks GS!
Thank you so much.
I believe if you train your main arms at 45 degrees you get less aggressive shoots. Allowing for more fruiting buds. Trees want to grow up. If you make the branches flat it tries to start new leaders growing straight up.
This is wonderful! I've always dreamed of doing one of these myself and now I know how to tackle it. Thanks a lot.
Very timely, I have apples in their first year, growing from grafted bare roots, they are shooting up to become whips so next year I can start this process. Nice video, saved to my private playlist of apple growing vids.
Thanks, Scott!
Many thanks for a brilliant, clear explanation of what to do with my shop-bought, 1-tier espalier Gardener Scott! I now have the courage to try to do the next tier myself. All the best!
This is SO helpful! I wanted to espalier the young apple tree my mom bought but i absoluteley didn't know where to start as all the videos i wsa seeing the trees were already grown. Thank you very much!
As someone who is new to espalier and plans on getting her first fruit trees (bare root) this spring, this video was so helpful, thank you! My trees will be bigger then this one but the general idea is the same I hope. I'm super excited to start my mini orchard this year! I worked hard over the fall to get the space ready for them and its exciting that its finally happening. I have always wanted fruit trees but never had the space, suddenly discovering espalier opened that door for me.
This tree is now three(?) years old, I would love to see what it looks like today.
Sadly, my tree was eaten by animals. I replaced it, fenced it for protection, and hope to do an update video soon that will show the next steps in espalier.
Scott, your videos are great. I'm.just about to start my first espallier and feel a lot more confident watching your videos....
Thanks. My next video in a few months will show the second year training.
This is a such a great informative video! It explains how and why and when. I feel much more confident to start my espalier now! Thanks!
Great video. Love it.
nice! Yesterday I planted a starking :)
Thank you!!!
thank you - really good explanation.
Great video. I thought this was very informative.
Interesting that your left/right buds from last year turned into the verticals, rather than your horizontals. Should one actually have an extra bud or two above the horizontals so the planned horizontals can be trained horizontal?
The top buds will naturally grow vertically as they try to become a central leader. Having a bud or two above the horizontals will promote new vertical branches from those buds. That would allow the horizontals to be tied and trained to a trellis and lessen their vertical growth, but isn't required.
Thank you for doing a two year introduction to this concept. I keep permanent plantings at least 12" away from fence lines for the same reason.
Just a foundation question..
What kind of possible structural problems could develop with the tree roots being so close to the foundation?
Thanks for responding..
I believe your tree will grow and develop beautifully in that location with much love and attention.
It is possible that some big tree roots can grow into the foundation and cause cracking.
You might also want to soak the tree at times in which case you'd be putting unnecessary water against the foundation.
Also if you ever want to take it down, professionals can't stump grind when it's right next to the foundation. I know that from experience 👍🏻
I appreciate the discussion that my question evoked. Both pro and con. That way, those that consider similar placements can make a more informed decision.
I wasn't prepared for that first extreme heading cut 😅💔
I'd love to see an update of what worked and what didn't.
Scott, I've been filming all year to show the trellising and pruning. Buuuut, my new dog ate the branches before I could finish filming. Now I'm trying to figure out how to edit and present the video without the finish. ☹
Always interesing to see Espalier, even tho I would not attempt it.
It was interesing to see you got 2 foot of growth, ours are about to enter dormancy, and I had planted 2 apples and a stone fruit Sep last year. One of the apples and stone fruit did make the 2 foot mark, the other, in a single year went for about a metre (3 foot) to nearly 2 and a half metres (8 foot), it just exploded, now having to decide how I am going to prune it. But thats a job for July/Aug
Matthew Ferrell
I had one McIntosh apple grow 6 feet in one season that is about 2 meters . And two leaders totaling 3 meter total. But that rate of growth is one in a hundred I guess
I pruned my paech and plumtree ecactly like you told is to do having the fout D's in mind. ... ( daeth-damaged-deseasef - and this time a took disorderly specialy in mind ) it made me affraid the first weeks bit box i see the young new grow in this first week of april i am do glad i did it folowing your instuctions . Do glad for your information. I hope you bever stop doing this . TANKS A LOT !
I see you type as badly as me. I often hit the "d" when I try to hit the "s" so I often type "do" for "so" just like you
@@robertbrawley5048 thans because i am dutchspaeker and my dictionaru of my fijne make english wordt into Dutch words
@@robertbrawley5048 fijne is phone
@@jean-pierreposman7282 yes I realized English may not have been your native language but you do a fine job as good as some native English speaker like myself who can't type worth a darn
@@jean-pierreposman7282 you are well ahead of me . I only speak English . Cheers
What if there are no buds and only previously pruned lower branches? Can a 3/4" 3 year old stem be cut similarly to foster growth lower? Thank you!
It depends on the tree. For the most part, old trees won't generate many new buds low on the tree. You might get some on a 3-yr-old tree. A heading cut will generate the most new growth near the cut but should also generate buds to grow lower down.
Question: Couldn't you treat the cut branches to make more apple seedlings?
Apple cuttings can root pretty easily so it's worth a try.
Yeah but your roots will be the the roots of the scion wood not the rootstock. Oh I'm doing exactly what you are talking about trying to root the cuttings but primarily to grow temporary trees to harvest the scion wood
Besides looks, is there another benefit for trees to be trained this way?
Space. This, for instance, is an apple tree that will be occupying maybe three feet front to back, 8-10 side-to-side, and 4-6 up. All the fruit is within reach easily, and you could not put a freely growing apple tree in a space that small.
It gives the opportunity to grow a productive fruit tree in a small space.
@@GardenerScott I have seen grave vines done this way, but never a tree. I think I'll try it as well. Thanks for the info guys!
Pruning and training - intelligently guiding your plant - is one of the easiest ways to improve the aesthetics / productivity of a plant. Sometimes, incredibly significantly so. As near as I can tell, all nodal plants sort of respond to the same techniques and stimuli that you've demonstrated in this video.
It's funny - foresters, modern stoners, the guys who maintain orchards whatever they are - have all stumbled upon / recycled the same techniques over and over again, likely over millennia. People used to actually plant and maintain trees that they themselves would never see mature / put to purpose. Few would ever do that these days. Which is a shame.
When you cut off one of those large chunks off a whip (we've got some that are 4-5' tall), is there any good prospect of taking that as a cutting to grow another? I don't see why not, but I'm very new to this.
Yes, you can often grow from the cutting.
😍
Could you root that top cutting and grow another tree from it? Great video. Thanks.
Yes you can. Thanks.
SG25 I have been trying for 4 years to root any cutting with no success. But there are tons of videos that show just that . Its easy . Its foolproof its fast . For me it ain't easy ,foolproof or fast. Particularly apple. Pear? I have had some success. Fig . Fig are suppose to be the easiest of all . It ain't easy or foolproof
@@robertbrawley5048 Maybe some rooting hormones, coconut peat, and clear plastic bags will help boost your success rate.
Just about all fruit trees are grafted. Variety you want on rootstock suitable for your area. Soil type etc.
This is a message to a viewer not the host .
If you are not willing to make that first drastic cut say on a Lowes or home depot tree I have had success with girdling the trunk. That means wrapping a "Zip Tie" or copper wire around the trunk to construct the flow of nutrients from passing beyond the zip-tie . Girdling promotes branching below the girdle. It might take 2 years to see results from the girdling
On trees that I did the drastic cut 4 feet to 6 feet ( 2 meters) from the ground and girdle the trunk at 20 inches 50 centimeters from the ground i got vigorous branching my third growing season after planting
I like low horizontal branches because I want 3 level of espalier no higher than 8 feet that about 2 &1/2 meter tall
I planted some apple trees today. 5 are barefoot and mostly a stick straight up. 5 are 1 gallon with some branches. Do I make the cut this year or wait until next winter?
The initial cut can be made when they're still dormant. If you want that initial branching to be higher you can let them grow taller this year and make that heading cut next year.
Gardener Scott, I planted 2 dwarf peach trees..it is suppose to have a couple more freezing nights possibly tonight.it has buds but one has a couple leaves on it, do I cover it with a sheet? Or is it OK?
The buds are much more resilient then the young greens that emerge. I think you're ok if your only seeing buds. But I'd cover any young tender growth 👍🏻
@@BoltActionBob thank you
Hi Gardener Scott. Great video and I love to learn about growing fruit trees. I’m in zone 7b and I want to grow paw paw tree. I told a local private seller that I learned these trees do not self pollinate and she told me they are species tree grown from seed and that’s key to pollination. She sounds like she doesn’t know what she is saying because she doesn’t know about the different varieties within a fruit tree. Should I avoid purchasing.
Hi, Krystal. Paw paw trees are self-infertile which means you will need at least two different trees to get fruit. It really has nothing to do with seed or how they're grown. You might consider a different source for your trees so you know you'll get different varieties.
I bought several fruit trees from Starks. And they had all the info on which make good pollinating partners. Also review and space out the harvest months so you don't get all the fruit at once. 👍🏻
I am very interested to see how you seminated the pumpkins. Where I can see it?
Thanks😊
I show in this video: ua-cam.com/video/VITuzjLdWk4/v-deo.html
@@GardenerScott Thanks a lot
Today for the first time I saw your three videos on pumpkin tomatoes and cucumbers.Very nicely explained . Compliments
Hi Scott. Why don't you just prune them in the summer as they vigorously grow? Wouldn't that nip the problem of incorrect growth in the bud, so to speak?
Summer pruning promotes bushy growth through multiple buds. Winter pruning directs growth to specific buds for structural design.
Is the next pruning vid available yet?
Vanakam 🦚
Thanks for sharing. My tree already have leaves and flowers, is it too lat to prune? Thank you and happy Easter.
It may be too late depending on your goal. Winter pruning encourages new growth. After the plant is actively growing, pruning tends to reduce the amount of growth.
@@GardenerScott I will make a note of this for the next season. Thank you for your response. Hope you have a great evening
@@GardenerScott yes after the leaves form in the spring if I heavily prune a newly bought tree it stunts their growth for one or two growing seasons . One of my problems is I cant just go down to a big box store and buy a whip What Lowes sells are ten foot tall trees with thick trucks in the early spring they are typically $24 in late spring they are more in the $30 range in my area bare root whips are as rare as hens teeth ( eastern seaboard Manassas Va.) I see out west in UA-cam videos barefoot trees are every where jamming up the Home depot garden center. WALMART for the first time had 6 barefoot trees and I bought them all my first whips unknown apple variety because the packaging was so sunbleached the labeling was unreadable 3 have leafed out & 3 haven't one of the have-nots i put in to air bubbling water filled container that has leafed out but there are no fine roots and I'm sure it not going to make it
I just got wind of a nursery . Every thing is in Washington, Oregon Raintree Williamete nursery. And Willow Drive nursery. At Willow Drive i can get whips or near whips for about $10 to $13 apiece minimum order 30 trees not including shipping . Williamette nursery buy a bundle of Russian seedling rootstock 50 trees to a bundle at $ 1.24
But you see i have to commit 3 or 4 hundred dollars at one time the prince of 2 Chinese red maples currently at Lowes. Yes 300 dollars is a good deal . Or do able deal
@@GardenerScott well anyhow this is a very good explanation of how to construct an espalier . Two other channel s Excelsior Farms & and an Australian high density orchard are two other good instructions for espalier tech. In a commercial orchard goal typically call 4 leader UFO training ( Upright Fruiting Offshoot)
Mike Kincaid has an excellent. Well a really good video on how to recognize a basal bud during the sunnertime to develop fruiting spurs for the following year . I would look forward to you take on how to prune for fruiting spurs or buds . I not 95 ,% clear on that . More like a seat of the pants understanding .
Why would a vertical leader, off of a cordon branch produce fruit spurs but no fruit spurs grow on a central leader trained tree like in a columnar tree? . Dont answer me now make a video of it in the future I have plenty of time to waite
My apples and pear espalier are in their first spring/summer after planting them in late winter. The first tier is growing well. Its now mid summer. I have some branch growth coming off the two trained laterals and some off the central leader. Should I be summer pruning in the first year on my first tier laterals? Is mid summer too late for that? I have one pear which has produced a few laterals off the central leader at a tier two height. Should I train those now or is it best to cut the central leader back in winter to start the next tier from fresh? Thanks
Summer pruning tends to promote bushier growth, while winter pruning is better for structural growth. Generally, plan the first couple years for winter pruning. After a few years, summer pruning can be used to develop fruiting spurs.
Hi ! So, 2 years later, how does this apple tree look ?
It was eaten by animals and I had to replace it. The replacement is doing well and will appear in an update video.
Is it possible to espalier a fruit tree that is in the range of being a 5 gallon tree? Can you still prune the branches in the winter to get it where you want?
Yes, espalier can be a good method for container trees. It takes careful pruning and management in smaller pots.
do you plan to do an update/ year two video?
I was planning that and shot some footage, but an animal ate my tree. I'll start over this year and protect it. It will be another couple years before I can show the year two video.
@@GardenerScott oh man that's terrible. im sorry man. No worries. Thank you for the response
Gardener Scott, can a full-sized fruit tree be trained to do this?
A full size tree can be pruned to maintain a smaller size, but to get a specific shape it needs to be trained while young with flexible branches.
@@GardenerScott Sorry, that is what I meant. I have cuttings I am growing and they are small right now but are not dwarf varieties. Thank you for the reply. :)
Do you have a update on this espalier? I can't find one
I had animals eat the tree. I replanted and am planning an update video when the new tree catches up to the one in this video.
Why espalier though? Why not column or ballerina tree?
With a narrow, long space like this, espalier can fit it perfectly.
Personal choice.
@@GardenerScott ah, will you be doing a video on column& ballerina trees?
The website I wanted to buy trees from had a couple apple and peer trees in that shape & 1 cherry version, although they said the cherry isn't a 'true' colomn tree but it's not branching a lot.
I wasn't sure if I wanted to cash out more money for it because I'm not sure if it's a specific bred variety (that doesn't branch a lot and bears fruit on the short branches) or if it's a way to prune the tree; if it's the later I'd love a guide how to maintain it and create it 🙈
Their guide said that if the trees are plantes 0,5m away from each other they will form a nice fruit hedge (I thought that was a bit close to plant trees)
I just bought a apple tree and planted it, can i prune it for a esplair right now in the summer?
Maybe. For shaping a small tree or whip, winter pruning stimulates new branches to grow. If there are already branches on your tree you can prune some of the growth. Summer pruning won't promote new branch growth but can cause new leaf growth. It depends on the shape you want and if you need new branches.
@@GardenerScott Im in a similar predicament here in Australia I just purchased and received 6 bare rooted apple trees and planted them. Now a few months on they are all greened up, about 3 weeks off Summer could I possibly still trim off the top of them this week? or best to wait now until next winter?
@@colleenmcclure366 Pruning at different times of year achieves different things. Winter pruning is best to develop the structure (skeleton) of the tree. Pruning in summer can help keep the tree small but promotes bushiness.
Is there an update of how the tree looks now?
It was eaten by animals and I had to replant. I plan to do an update video next year.
That's a real shame!!! Good luck with the new one! I planted a one year old apple tree whip and was wondering if I have to prune at the first wire? It has just broken dormancy but I have perfect buds at the first and second wires so could I leave it as it is? Cheers
@@gavintyrell8470 It depends on the shape you're after, but leaving as is can give more options in the future.
Thanks. Just going to keep it simple and go with a standard horizontal look!
Gardener Scott, is it possible to espalier standard size, or MM111 apple trees in a horizontal system but with longer laterals like 8' long on each side of the trunk? I unfortunately live along the clay banks of the James River in Virginia and besides the first 8" of topsoil, it's all clay 15' deep. I've tried 2'tall raised beds but after a few years of stress , the Bud 9 and M7 rootstocks reach the clay and they eventually rot. I've been told by several commercial nursery fruit tree companies that a seedling rootstock or a MM111 rootstock will work with heavy clay soils.
You should be able to. Pruning the tree will reduce the size of root growth as well. It may take years of experimentation, but you should be able to find the right size of espalier to avoid the rot.
@@GardenerScott Thank You.
Hello Scott,
I’m planning on starting espalier trees along a wall in my garden (the wall isn’t for a house - it’s merely a garden wall). I plan on keeping them 5-6’ tall. Would it be okay for me to plant semi-dwarf fruit trees along this wall as long as I prune them often? My main concern is the roots - will they be damaged or negatively influenced by the wall? I ask because I’m having a hard time finding specific varieties of affordable dwarf trees. I can find dwarf tree options, but they are a little out of my budget in comparison to the semi-dwarf options.
Semi-dwarf root systems are smaller than standard trees and as long as they're about 12-18 inches or more from the wall there should be enough room for them. My apple tree is a semi-dwarf that is that far from the wall and keeping it small should keep the roots in check too.
How does it look now?
It was actually eaten by animals and I had to replace it and start again. I'm planning another video in this series when the tree establishes.
@@GardenerScott Sorry to hear that. I'm trying to start 3 trees into espalier form, did the first cut last winter and I am thinking I need to start training the first horizontal branches this summer, so they don't begin to harden, but not sure if I can wait until it goes dormant.
You are doing an espalier, but you don’t want to bend the shoots?
I will going into the second year. Very young branches can snap off if they're bent too early.
@@GardenerScott ah ok, thanks
What do you mean? The first two aren't long enough to be bent and are already growing at a good angle for their length.
Aren't you worried about the roots damaging your foundation?
I chose a semi-dwarf tree with a smaller root stock, planted away from the foundation, and will keep the tree pruned to a small size. The roots should not pose a problem.
And now just pray a rabbit doesn't eat the lower branches
A chicken wire fence wouldn't be too much trouble to put in if need be.
I got ground hog s but no rabbit or deer . I'm in pretty good shape as far as trees but the ground hog decimated the vegetable garden . I just grow for the fun of it . Fruits and veg are cheap enough at the store
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