Steve, I love how you and the team are bringing so many in the industry into great process sequences. Tortured Path, haha, cool new Steve term. CONTINUITY test with Big Red! 😄 Cheers, Eric
I built the same way with Zip; house walls first, garage walls second, roof trusses last. Very easy to coordinate, especially when I’m building it myself 😂
Steve, mew watcher of the channel, builder for 6 years. Zip just became an in stock item near me and just did my first project with it seems to be working out good other then some bowing happening between sheets but I'm not required blocking and think that would've helped. My question is what is the difference in quality of air barrier between zip with liquid flashed seams and fasteners vs the siga majvest? And do you feel the cost diffrence between zip and majvest is worth it for a good well built house?
what is the name of her company? i’m in Maine looking for a builder and most of the old-school builders, don’t want to hear about air barriers and thermal bridging, and it’s frustrating trying to find a builder that will do what I want them to do
Why would you use Myvest over Zip? It seems Zip would save a lot of labor on site as well as reduce the potential for issues related to things being done properly as mentioned in the video. Maybe Zip is more expensive than sheathing plus Myvest??
You beat me to the question! 😊 Agree, labor to apply so i wonder if this add-on is a thicker barrier that it better when nailing other lumber to the exterior. . . Steve.....teach us ole mighty wise one!! 😁
? So, the secondary barrier is purely because of the ductwork outside the primary barrier? And the best design is to keep the ductwork inside the primary barrier? Steven is building a cabin in the woods, what is he using, Siga or Zip?
It's always harder to get subs to do more when the gc leaves out some scope details and expects it at the same price. Promise to get them back on the next job but then they find the next sucker, I mean sub, to mislead and get the price down.
I understand about tight houses and using an ERV or HRV and filters to bring in fresh air and exhaust stale air. I also realize that having slight positive pressure in the house helps to keep radon from infiltrating the foundation and getting into the house. But what if you live in a rural area that has no polution problem, you don't have allergies and you like having your windows open as often as possible? I know the various semi-permiable barriers depend on the internal air pressure to drive vapor through the membranes. If the windows are open, you don't get that pressure. Will the wall assemblies not function properly with the windows open? Will you potentially have more radon problems?
I don't think it's air pressure, but rather vapor pressure, meaning that if the humidity gets too high on one side the membrane will become more vapor permeable. This action usually only works in one direction through the membrane, so it is important that that side of the membrane faces the wall assembly, regardless of whether the membrane is an interior or exterior product. Then, if water gets into the wall it will be able to dry to either the inside or outside, but water vapor will still have difficulty passing through the membrane into the wall assembly.
It absolutely is not simple. I did Air-sealing work as an energy rater for new construction for a few years. My best advice is to do what Steve is doing. Think through the details ahead of time. Foam or caulk every penetration. One hole per electrical or plumbing penetration. One cutout per duct. Band blocking needs to be carefully cut to fit openings. Web trusses that need fire blocking is the worst to try to seal up. It's not impossible.
Steve, I love how you and the team are bringing so many in the industry into great process sequences. Tortured Path, haha, cool new Steve term.
CONTINUITY test with Big Red! 😄
Cheers, Eric
I built the same way with Zip; house walls first, garage walls second, roof trusses last. Very easy to coordinate, especially when I’m building it myself 😂
Steve, mew watcher of the channel, builder for 6 years. Zip just became an in stock item near me and just did my first project with it seems to be working out good other then some bowing happening between sheets but I'm not required blocking and think that would've helped.
My question is what is the difference in quality of air barrier between zip with liquid flashed seams and fasteners vs the siga majvest? And do you feel the cost diffrence between zip and majvest is worth it for a good well built house?
Steve, you have a basement and you’re STILL planning to have mechanicals in the attic, outside the envelope?
what is the name of her company? i’m in Maine looking for a builder and most of the old-school builders, don’t want to hear about air barriers and thermal bridging, and it’s frustrating trying to find a builder that will do what I want them to do
Why would you use Myvest over Zip? It seems Zip would save a lot of labor on site as well as reduce the potential for issues related to things being done properly as mentioned in the video. Maybe Zip is more expensive than sheathing plus Myvest??
You beat me to the question! 😊
Agree, labor to apply so i wonder if this add-on is a thicker barrier that it better when nailing other lumber to the exterior.
.
.
Steve.....teach us ole mighty wise one!! 😁
If Zip is too expensive, LP makes a competitive product. Kyle at R&R Building is using it in his new shop. www.youtube.com/@RRBuildings
? So, the secondary barrier is purely because of the ductwork outside the primary barrier? And the best design is to keep the ductwork inside the primary barrier?
Steven is building a cabin in the woods, what is he using, Siga or Zip?
It's always harder to get subs to do more when the gc leaves out some scope details and expects it at the same price. Promise to get them back on the next job but then they find the next sucker, I mean sub, to mislead and get the price down.
I understand about tight houses and using an ERV or HRV and filters to bring in fresh air and exhaust stale air. I also realize that having slight positive pressure in the house helps to keep radon from infiltrating the foundation and getting into the house. But what if you live in a rural area that has no polution problem, you don't have allergies and you like having your windows open as often as possible? I know the various semi-permiable barriers depend on the internal air pressure to drive vapor through the membranes. If the windows are open, you don't get that pressure. Will the wall assemblies not function properly with the windows open? Will you potentially have more radon problems?
I don't think it's air pressure, but rather vapor pressure, meaning that if the humidity gets too high on one side the membrane will become more vapor permeable. This action usually only works in one direction through the membrane, so it is important that that side of the membrane faces the wall assembly, regardless of whether the membrane is an interior or exterior product. Then, if water gets into the wall it will be able to dry to either the inside or outside, but water vapor will still have difficulty passing through the membrane into the wall assembly.
How do you do this when the garage is below living area?
Build the garage and foundation box first. Make sure to air seal the garage rim joists and ceiling.
@@AaronHope_Sow sounds simple. Is not. If you seal the ceiling at the start, how do you get insulation in? How do you run electrical and plumbing?
It absolutely is not simple. I did Air-sealing work as an energy rater for new construction for a few years. My best advice is to do what Steve is doing. Think through the details ahead of time. Foam or caulk every penetration. One hole per electrical or plumbing penetration. One cutout per duct. Band blocking needs to be carefully cut to fit openings. Web trusses that need fire blocking is the worst to try to seal up. It's not impossible.
Adapt, change or go bankrupt.
Adopting new technology creates better buildings. Air sealing and water control are key to long lasting buildings.