I'd love to see more details on low-slope roofs under decking. Specifically how an intergraded gutter combine with crickets, parapet walls, doors and exterior insulation. I'm thinking of a second story deck over a conditioned space, and surrounded on three sides by conditioned space. Thanks
I love the century assembly, if anything I think the wall ties are the main weakness to durability, it will be interesting to see whether stainless ties have a comparable service life.
Currently designing a Bardominium (pole structure on 8' centers, therefore balloon framing but no traditional exterior stud walls) to build in Alberta, Canada. Structure will be 32' x 64', half will be 2 floors (living space) with the remander being garage/shop with 10' ceilings. Slab on grade with radiant heating and steel cladding on exterior walls with either steel cladding or standing seam roofing. My question is how best to insulate the walls/ceilings and slab.
Great video! I have a question regarding the installation of the smart vapor retarder (such as Intello or Majrex) on the back side of the interior frame in a double-wall assembly. If the vapor retarder sits mid-way between two almost equally sized insulation layers (~1:1 ratio), would there be an increased risk of condensation forming within the wall assembly, particularly at the inner side of the exterior wood frame? My concern is that the interior frame essentially becomes a service cavity outside the vapor retarder, which offers many benefits installation-wise, but is there a limit to insulation thickness for this setup to work effectively? I've heard of a 1/3 rule being recommended for service cavities, but I’m having a hard time understanding this clearly and not sure how to best approach this for a safe install. What are your thoughts?
Thank you. I am currently building a timber frame earth ship inspired cottage. NO TIRES or BERM using thick cmu north wall with masonry appliances. Passive solar south wall with 6/12 skillion/shed/mono slope roof. Decided on extra passive solar gain. Figure I can cover windows if need be.
Found your channel in the throws of a complex remodel and it's amazing. Wonder if you might elaborate on exterior insulation on a cladded second floor over a 4" brick veneer 1st floor where we don't have access to the exterior sheathing (fiberboard). Plan is for four inches exterior mineral wool to match the brick offset and continue to the ridge vented roof via 2.5 inch furred gap. Concern for me is the first floor top plate area where it transitions from no exterior insulation to exterior insulated area. Hope that makes sense and look forward to your next video
Hi Sharif. Thank you very much for featuring my question in your Q&A. This gave me a couple more options to think about which interested me. I may have figured out a way to eliminate all but 5 contact points where open web trusses would attach using thermal bridge materials. I have not had any structural engineer look at this solution yet, but I will send you some pictures. Might be something, or it may be nothing. What I will do is send you a contact form on your website, and if you are interested please reply with your email and I will send the REVIT detail to you for comment.
I have two questions I'm hoping you can help me with. I'm in Houston (which I believe is climate zone 2) First, I have a brick house that my wife wants to be white (the brick is a pink color) and so I'm looking into staining the brick. Is it better to seal the brick after staining so it sheds more water or leave it unsealed? Second the attic has insulation batts (r19 faced insulation with the face down) rolled between the joists and a radiant barrier laid over that. My plan is to do Insulation 2.0 (cans of spray foam to air seal ceiling/attic penetrations if you're unfamiliar) and to staple the radiant barrier to the rafters to act as a rafter vent for the insulation I want to blow in. Do you see any major issues with this/potentially a much better way to do it without redoing the roof?
Just from a theoretical point of view, a double walled system could have its own, interior to the wall / closed, ventilation system, allowing for active moisture removal. Again, notionally, very narrow, perforated tubing could snake through those walls and allow moisture-laden air to be removed to a dehumidifier, then gently returned back to the cavity. Gravity would cause the air with the most moisture to settle towards the bottom of the cavity. Easy calculation. Of course, the insulation material should be very air porous. The idea is to have just enough pressure in the system to move the air without creating a pressure differential between either to the interior or the exterior spaces. (Venting walls could remove other gases or odors should that ever be useful. Also it would provide a way of injecting insecticides, fungicides, etc., then removing them, if that’s ever needed. Hydrogen peroxide, periodically run through the walls, would be effective, gentle, and then, as it is reactive, dissipate quickly - it’s what is used for infection control in hospitals today. It’s also used to chemically eradicate odors.) The air flow would, normally, be tiny and the system could be controlled so that it would be activated only when needed. Fire safety would necessitate that the interior be mineral fiber, and that the airflow system be shut down by a fire detection system. (But then, a fire suppression system could pump nitrogen or CO2 into the walls in the event of a fire. Unlike water, inert gases wouldn’t damage the structure.) There are lots of other ways to do this, but depending only upon passive moisture transport horizontally through your walls imposes a huge constraint on your design. And it doesn’t necessarily take the moisture where you want it. Also, gypsum, or some better inert product, without paper, would be a better choice for a middle of the double-wall than OSB. You could use plastic mesh to mud the seams between sheets. The middle wall will be hidden so this process will be quick and would not require sanding. Just some thoughts. Great series. Wonderfully thought provoking in an area where everyone is stuck on past practices and familiar materials used in familiar ways.
How would you insulate a shed that is built with LP Smartside directly on top of the 2x4 framing. No sheathing. Hot humid climate, air conditioned interior.
@@jhippl The two places that I'm all for it! It worked great on the exterior for low slope roof retrofits. As long as it's isolated from the interior pressure boundary.
These are the best presentations, thank you.
I'd love to see more details on low-slope roofs under decking. Specifically how an intergraded gutter combine with crickets, parapet walls, doors and exterior insulation. I'm thinking of a second story deck over a conditioned space, and surrounded on three sides by conditioned space. Thanks
It's now on the list of future videos! Thanks so much for watching.
I love the century assembly, if anything I think the wall ties are the main weakness to durability, it will be interesting to see whether stainless ties have a comparable service life.
Currently designing a Bardominium (pole structure on 8' centers, therefore balloon framing but no traditional exterior stud walls) to build in Alberta, Canada. Structure will be 32' x 64', half will be 2 floors (living space) with the remander being garage/shop with 10' ceilings. Slab on grade with radiant heating and steel cladding on exterior walls with either steel cladding or standing seam roofing. My question is how best to insulate the walls/ceilings and slab.
Great video! I have a question regarding the installation of the smart vapor retarder (such as Intello or Majrex) on the back side of the interior frame in a double-wall assembly. If the vapor retarder sits mid-way between two almost equally sized insulation layers (~1:1 ratio), would there be an increased risk of condensation forming within the wall assembly, particularly at the inner side of the exterior wood frame? My concern is that the interior frame essentially becomes a service cavity outside the vapor retarder, which offers many benefits installation-wise, but is there a limit to insulation thickness for this setup to work effectively? I've heard of a 1/3 rule being recommended for service cavities, but I’m having a hard time understanding this clearly and not sure how to best approach this for a safe install. What are your thoughts?
Thank you. I am currently building a timber frame earth ship inspired cottage. NO TIRES or BERM using thick cmu north wall with masonry appliances. Passive solar south wall with 6/12 skillion/shed/mono slope roof. Decided on extra passive solar gain. Figure I can cover windows if need be.
Found your channel in the throws of a complex remodel and it's amazing. Wonder if you might elaborate on exterior insulation on a cladded second floor over a 4" brick veneer 1st floor where we don't have access to the exterior sheathing (fiberboard). Plan is for four inches exterior mineral wool to match the brick offset and continue to the ridge vented roof via 2.5 inch furred gap.
Concern for me is the first floor top plate area where it transitions from no exterior insulation to exterior insulated area. Hope that makes sense and look forward to your next video
Hi Sharif. Thank you very much for featuring my question in your Q&A. This gave me a couple more options to think about which interested me. I may have figured out a way to eliminate all but 5 contact points where open web trusses would attach using thermal bridge materials. I have not had any structural engineer look at this solution yet, but I will send you some pictures. Might be something, or it may be nothing. What I will do is send you a contact form on your website, and if you are interested please reply with your email and I will send the REVIT detail to you for comment.
I have two questions I'm hoping you can help me with. I'm in Houston (which I believe is climate zone 2)
First, I have a brick house that my wife wants to be white (the brick is a pink color) and so I'm looking into staining the brick. Is it better to seal the brick after staining so it sheds more water or leave it unsealed?
Second the attic has insulation batts (r19 faced insulation with the face down) rolled between the joists and a radiant barrier laid over that. My plan is to do Insulation 2.0 (cans of spray foam to air seal ceiling/attic penetrations if you're unfamiliar) and to staple the radiant barrier to the rafters to act as a rafter vent for the insulation I want to blow in. Do you see any major issues with this/potentially a much better way to do it without redoing the roof?
Just from a theoretical point of view, a double walled system could have its own, interior to the wall / closed, ventilation system, allowing for active moisture removal. Again, notionally, very narrow, perforated tubing could snake through those walls and allow moisture-laden air to be removed to a dehumidifier, then gently returned back to the cavity. Gravity would cause the air with the most moisture to settle towards the bottom of the cavity. Easy calculation. Of course, the insulation material should be very air porous. The idea is to have just enough pressure in the system to move the air without creating a pressure differential between either to the interior or the exterior spaces. (Venting walls could remove other gases or odors should that ever be useful. Also it would provide a way of injecting insecticides, fungicides, etc., then removing them, if that’s ever needed. Hydrogen peroxide, periodically run through the walls, would be effective, gentle, and then, as it is reactive, dissipate quickly - it’s what is used for infection control in hospitals today. It’s also used to chemically eradicate odors.) The air flow would, normally, be tiny and the system could be controlled so that it would be activated only when needed. Fire safety would necessitate that the interior be mineral fiber, and that the airflow system be shut down by a fire detection system. (But then, a fire suppression system could pump nitrogen or CO2 into the walls in the event of a fire. Unlike water, inert gases wouldn’t damage the structure.) There are lots of other ways to do this, but depending only upon passive moisture transport horizontally through your walls imposes a huge constraint on your design. And it doesn’t necessarily take the moisture where you want it. Also, gypsum, or some better inert product, without paper, would be a better choice for a middle of the double-wall than OSB. You could use plastic mesh to mud the seams between sheets. The middle wall will be hidden so this process will be quick and would not require sanding. Just some thoughts. Great series. Wonderfully thought provoking in an area where everyone is stuck on past practices and familiar materials used in familiar ways.
How would you insulate a shed that is built with LP Smartside directly on top of the 2x4 framing. No sheathing. Hot humid climate, air conditioned interior.
How do you feel about spray foam on the exterior of the house and underneath the slab?
@@jhippl The two places that I'm all for it! It worked great on the exterior for low slope roof retrofits. As long as it's isolated from the interior pressure boundary.
@@ASIRIDesigns What about spray foam on the exterior of the walls with a z girt or furring strips?
Hemp fiber is also prone to animal penetration.