Main Board Repair of a 'junked' LG 42LV5500 TV Reflow Oven
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- Опубліковано 15 лют 2020
- Video tip: Did you know you can skip fwd & bkwd 10s with the cursor Right & Left keys? It will let you skip the boring parts! Click 'Show More' for schematics links & description.
The first 3 minutes is about the TV and testing the SMPS & TCON. Discussion of Main board starts at about 3:00
One thing I should have done is to make some wood or plastic standoffs to support the middle of the board so that it stops flexing when the video chip warms up.
One commenter used a $7 PTC heater and set it on the video chip for like 6-8 minutes. It reaches 250c and stays there. After heating, you may want to unplug and wait for it to cool so you dont move the chip. Seem like a possible safe way to heat/reflow the chip.
www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-PTC...
Similar $15 PTC heater on AMZN www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Link to Service Manual
goihl.com/42LV5500/lg_42lv5500...
Link to Main Board Schematic (for power supplies)
goihl.com/42LV5500/lg_42lv5500...
I was given a 2011 42in LG LED TV that had no picture and no backlight. The remove power button worked and I could hear a click. I tested the Power Supply and it was ok. I tested the LCD panel driver board, called the TCON board, and it was ok. I checked all the power supplies on the main board and they were ok. The main control CPU #IC602 (called the 'MICOM') was receiving commands from the front panel and the IR remote and was turning on the power supply, but it did not send the signal to turn on the LED backlight (INV_CTL) or turn on the local Panel 12V (Q507). I think this was because after the main power was turned on, the MICOM was trying to talk to the video processor IC101, but it was offline and was not communicating. This prevented the MICOM from going any further. I reflowed IC101 (sort of) by using a heatgun to apply heat to the video processor chip under the main board heatsink and that fixed the problem. Note that a hair-dryer will not be hot enough. If you have a really big heat gun, you will need to shield the board with metal so as not to burn the PCB. There are many video's about putting this main board in the oven to reflow the board, but I'm against this..
Here is a video about the oven baking method: • Repair An LG Televisio...
Here is a video about a warped board. Did this happen in the oven? • Strangely warped main ...
I would actually do some troubleshooting on your power supply and T-Con board before trying something as drastic as the oven on the main board. The oven just barely gets to the melting point of solder. Actually at 385 degrees Fahrenheit it doesn't even melt some solders. and it melts all of the solder on your board which could cause other parts to loosen up and cause more problems. I prefer the local heat method myself. I don't doubt that the board may work after the oven, but it may not be a complete reflow of the solder joints - it may just move the board or chip around a little creating a mechanical connection of the affected joint(s).
Video Chip I reflowed BCM35230KFSBG Ball Grid Array
www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-BCM3523...
LG 42LV5500 No picture, not turning on, no backlight, no sound. Main board
Remote PN AKB72914042
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Motion Remote PN akb73295502
www.amazon.com/LG-AKB73295502...
Service Remote PN MKJ39170828
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Weller 6966C 250W Electric Heat Gun www.amazon.com/dp/B000ICGMN4/...
Full TV Model 42LV5500-UA.AUSYLJR
Boards inside this Model TV
SMPS PN EAY62169801
TCON comes with panel I think
Main Board PNs
EBR73146501
BCM35230
LA12D/E
EAX63333404(0)
Link to EAY62810801 SMPS Manual (similar PS, but NOT for this model)
goihl.com/42LV5500/lg_eay62810...
42LV5500 Support Page
www.lg.com/us/support/product...
LG Spec Sheet
www.lg.com/us/products/docume...
TV User Manual (I had to add .pdf to the end of the downloaded file)
gscs-b2c.lge.com/downloadFile?...
The user manual lists all these models on the front cover, so this procedure may work for other models.
LED LCD TV MODELS
42LV3700
47LV3700
55LV3700
42LV5400
47LV5400
55LV5400
LCD TV MODELS
42LK530
47LK530
55LK530
42LK550
47LK550
PLASMA TV MODELS
50PZ750
60PZ750
50PZ950
60PZ950
50PZ950U
60PZ950U
42LV5500
47LV5500
55LV5500
42LW5600
47LW5600
55LW5600
32LW5700
42LW5700
47LW5700
55LW5700
47LW6500
55LW6500
65LW6500
47LW9800
55LW9800
55LV9500 - Навчання та стиль
Many thanks to this very useful video which really avoid me to pay 150 US dollars and now my tv is working fine ,, I really salute and raise my hat for you
I fixed my 47LW6500 after watching your video, thank you so much for the inspiration!!! I heated the chip at 300 degrees celsius for 5 minutes using my hot air gun, and then pushed it gently making sure not too wiggle it too much.
So something did go wrong with my TV - the heat gun trick fixed the image but the sound never came back through the internal speakers, I ended up attaching external speakers. Still a win in my book since it did not add to the recycle load on the planet.
Very thorough in the information you provided in the links, thanks. I used a 200 watts incandescent bulb on an extension cord resting against the circuit board for about 2 hrs and it worked! I didn't know it was that specific chip needed the heating. Much appreciated! You earned a subscriber!
I can't believe that this worked, I ran a couple of tests and narrowed down the problem to the main board, borrowed a heat gun, set the heat gun to 250 celsius, waved it over the large heatsink for three minutes total and I let it cool down, plugged it in and the TV turned on, I did not expect this to actually work, awesome!
It may not work for long. You actually need to remove the heat sink and heat the chip directly to reflow the solder under the chip. and if you notice when you remove the heat sink I bet you the board is kind of bowed or sinking or sagging. So you need to maybe make a little wooden block to support the board in the middle that is the same height as the standoffs around the edge
Amazing!! WORKED!! August 20 Now I have dirt, or Dust shows as black on screen trapped between the panel. People make sure to cover the back of your set if you will not be working on it for longer than 5 minutes. Use a clean sheet or something similar. Thank you so much for this great video. Also just a good tip I did add some Computer Thermal paste ( Artic Silver) to the Chip. I did this on a LG 60PZ950 Set. Thanks Again.
Update, I was able to remove the dirt particle or Dust with a new dry Microfiber cloth. YES!! Thank you again.
My LG is working again! Thank you for the video. I saved some money. I warmed up the chip with a proHeater gun with only one temperature setting, for 5 min only, the board started to bend slightly below the processor so I stopped. Maybe to much heat. Thank you 🙏
Excellent!
You are a life saver!
Followed instructions and my TV is back up.
I did not have a heat gun and I used the following, in order: gas stove (carefully place the board a few inches away from the flame), then hair dryer (my dryer switches off once its too hot so 1 minute was enough here) and finally a cigarette lighter (again gently bring the flame as close as possible to the actual unit without the flame coming in contact with the board. Risky I know, but it worked this time.
OMG! not a safe way. I'd use the oven method before doing that. Or this device another guy used... www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-PTC-Heating-Plate-LED-Remover-Demolition-Chip-Welding-Soldering-Station/114168582643
Thanks so much for all the effort you put into making this video, especially all the very useful links for troubleshooting. I must have looked at over 100 videos to try to figure out why my LG LED TV stopped working today. Your video is the ONLY one that really walks through a systematic process for isolating the problem. I can’t understand why you don’t have thousands of views as this is best video out there that is not some non-technical doofass getting lucky with goofy or unsafe fixes. I’m now more confident I have the right information to know how to fix mine. Great job!
My video is only 38 days old at this point. It takes likes, comments and maybe I need to modify the description to help people find the video in top search results. So make sure you click 'Like' on the video to help others find it! Thanks for watching!
It's me again! It worked =)
I used a soldering heatgun at ~215 C' for about 3 minutes. And i wrapped the board into the foil and made the cut around the chip, just in case not to "fry" anything nearby. In the very end i gently pushed the chip downward for better soldering.
FYI, this solution ALSO works if your TV works, but you get "RED or GREEN SNOW" on the BLACK parts of the video. I also repaired this way my another, even older TV with that "snow" issue and now i don't know where to use it))))
Hey, Zakkman. I have an LG tv with the snow/static problem. All icons and app UI displays correctly, but any video played is snow. I was told it's a bad mainboard, but have since been told that reflowing in the oven at 385 degrees for 10 minutes. Can you tell me a little about your experience with fixing the "snow" problem.
This PDF is a treasure trove !! awsome find !! thank you VERY VERY MUCH
I did this technique, with my hair dryer for about 10 minutes and it worked perfectly!!!! Thank you so much for the tip! Greets from Peru!
You showed this is the problem, but a hair dryer does not typically have enough heat... You may have to do it again in a few weeks or months - try to find something with more heat if you do... Good job!
@@timgoihl ok thanks! I will let you know if it happens again and if I can solve it. My hair dryer became very hot by the way...
Thank you, 350 C for six minutes! More helpful the service manual insights on the power supply and tcon. Grear job. Subscribed
Hopefully you mean 350 Fahrenheit. 350c is a little hot for solder solder maybe 200c. But glad it worked
This worked for me! I did remove the heat sink and pointed a heat gun to the chip until it got to 215 degrees. Placed things back, turned it on and IT'S WORKING, IT'S WORKIIIING!
Thanks for the tip, this saved me hundreds on a new TV.
Still working?
@@galford50 tv still working today
Thanks a lot ! I was able to fix the way you showed it. I ended up doing this twice. The second time around I pushed the heatsink hard and tight while putting it back together. The Thermal paste/sticker between the chip and heatsink probably degraded. Next time it goes out, I'll have thermal paste in hand. For the record, I used a hair dryer.
I fix my one as well. Thanks a lot for sharing such a good knowledgeable tv fixing video. Good on you. 🎉
it worked (used a hair dryer)!! that sweet satisfaction of seeing my 10 year old TV turn on made my day, thank you!
Glad it worked... usually a hair dryer does not produce enough heat to melt the solder, so you may end up doing it again sooner rather than later, but hopefully not!
Muchas gracias sr. Madison, muy claro y concreto, mucha informacion importante, es Usted una persona muy generosa, NO egoista. Gracias por compartir sus experiencias y conocimientos.
De Nada!
August 2020 YES!!! It worked, just like my MacBook and other devices with the same reballing problems! Thanks (I found this TV on the curb)
I think there's a lot of LG's dead on the curb that we could get working again...
I picked up the same tv today from nextdoor with the exact same issue I used my heat plate I use for desoldering leds left that on the chip for 3 minutes and now it switches on and is working good thank you 😊
I didn't know what a "heat plate" was, but i see some on eBay for $10. Looks like a good controlled way to apply heat to a bga. Do you have a link to what you bought/used?
@@timgoihl tkdmr 300w PTC heating soldering plate. They are on amazon $15.99 they don’t have temperature control but iv fix about 10 or so led strips with it so far it works great
This also worked on a 47LW5600 - same troublesome chip, slightly different arrangement. Also applies to 47LW5600, 65LW6500, 55LW5700, 55LW5600, and 47LW5700, which share the same mainboard (EBT61438207 / EAX63969204).
I just did another LG55LX6500 this week (9.12.21) This time I added a very small amount of liquid flux around the edge of the chip, then warmed the bottom of the board with the heat gun until the flux started to flow, then heated the chip directly for a minute or two. Worked immediately!
3/20/22 LG55LW5600 2011 Heated chip, TV works
what settings did you use on your heat gun (air level, temp) ? My air doesnt have a digital display.
thank you very much, waiting for your reply
@timgoihl Excellent video, explanation and links. My 42LV5500 had standby power but no backlight or picture. Passed SMPS and T-CON colour cycle tests as per your linked service manual/training guide. When switched ON using remote ctl it generated PWR_ON (3.5V, 12V & 24V are good from the PSU) but not DRIV_ON hence the backlight did not come on. The board did not appear warped as there are at least 8 standoffs under it - maybe yours was badly assembled but there was browning under IC101 consistent with hot running. I removed the heatsink, masked surrounds with aluminium foil and tried reflow of IC101 using Hot Air rework station set to 240 degC and low air flow for 80 secs but no improvement. Then used UV50 flux on all sides of the chip. Mounted hot air blower on a boom stand about 1 " above the chip and ran slowly up to 300 degC (indicated on the station) and left it there for 3 minutes, moving the stand slightly to spread the heat evenly. Let it cool and surprisingly there was no mess from the flux! it was all sucked under the chip. Powered it on and it was working but with vertical lines across the entire screen. Removed and cleaned both ends of T-CON ribbon cables using CRC CO Contact Cleaner. Reassembled and it's as good as new. Great result. Big thanks for your post.
Adding another thumbs up for the recommended repair steps. I used this process on a LG 47LW5600 which sat in storage for two years because I didn't want to throw it in the dump. Every time I checked the TV, it would briefly turn on and then turn off, after which the only response was the power LED slowly flashing red. The TV would not power again unless disconnected from power and drained, after which it would again briefly turn on and off before flashing the power LED red and failing to respond further.
Removed the back panel and power cable, removed cables from the mainboard, removed mainboard, removed the chip heatsink by depressing each plastic locking pin down completely and then "pinching" the exposed end with pliers (and then gently pushing the compressed pin through using the rubber end of pliers), wrapped the board in aluminum with a cutout for the XD chip, and used a heat gun and infrared thermometer to heat the chip to approximately 140-170C for 6-7 minutes. Removed heat, removed foil, the PCB was slightly "yellowed" at the focal point from some heating but look, it's better than a dead TV, so. I let the board cool for a few hours, then replaced the heatsink thermal pad with some leftover Thermal Grizzly pad (why not?), remounted heatsink, remounted board, reinserted cables, and - the TV lives!
TV has worked since this process was applied, and is now back in use - I will edit my comment if that changes in the future, but my fingers are crossed. Thanks so much for sharing this video, it was the clearest guide I've found to both identifying and resolving this problem.
I am having the same problem. Would you recommend putting the motherboard in the oven? And what exactly does the heat do to fix the problem? Thanks
If you watch my whole video you will know that I don't recommend the oven method. I also explain what the heat does. Heating the video chip resolders the broken solder joints underneath the chip allowing it to work again.
Wow that worked guys, its a 2010 TV and still running. Thanks!
Thank you! Add me to the number of folks you helped fix their TV. My wife thinks I'm a genius. I only heated it up for about 4 minutes with a long screwdriver while moving the heat gun all around the chip.
Worked for 65UB950V 😎🙏🏻 Thanks from Istanbul. Lg is real pain. I have problem LG dishwasher too...
very nicely explained n serviced
Thank you for such great explained video. I will try my best to troubleshoot mine.
PS: Nice 🏠 I liked it too
Thanks for this video as it saved my tv and many dollars.
Nice!
thanks, very interesting. I had 42LE7500 and warmed CPU a minute at 480g C
I repaired my 47" LG using this heat method. Fortunately, we have a SMT rework set-up where I work (broadcast shop). Unfortunately, the heat station doesn't have a readout of the heat - just a knob with settings 1-5. Chose highest heat, but with the fastest airflow. Went for broke (curb sale LG...) and went at the chip (heatsink removed) for 5-ish minutes. Let it cool down to ambient for half hour, resisting the urge to move it. Reinstalled and set now works fine!
Yours is perhaps the most comprehensive video on this repair.
Totally agree: the oven method scares me, and probably ineffective long-term. My inspiration.
I also added a small muffin fan over the "grille" in the rear of the set, where the board resides. I used a 12VDC unit running off internal 5V in the set. Fan runs slower but much quieter. Not concerned about losing depth - set is on a stand. Cheers!!!
Nice job. I like the fan idea. I bought a 40mm USB fan from Amazon and did the same thing you did. It plugs into the USB port of the TV for power. I picked up another free 55in off of Craigslist last Tuesday and had it fixed in a few minutes with my heat gun. Now I've done three! I don't even know what to do with all these TVs, they're just fun to fix! Out of curiosity what model and year was the TV? Every one I fixed has been a 2010 or 2011 so it's almost like they had a manufacturing issue during those years.
I found a small sticker inside with a date of 4 / 10, so that falls into the range at issue. Its a 47LE8500.
I keep finding these flat-screen sets at local "curb sales"...two I found worked straight awa, one even had the remote taped to the set - considerate of them. Thinking these sets are becoming so affordable now that when people move, its not worth the trouble to cart them along.
This latest find needed this repair, and was brought back to life.
Seems like you, I get satisfaction out of seeing these work again; guess it's a techie thing...
Cheers!!!
Hey there, Thanks So Much! for sharing. this worked and we are trilled to bits. Much thanks from New Zealand 🇳🇿
I was just as thrilled when it worked for me too!
Wondering how long you would expect a reflow to last? Thinking it may be a good idea to get a technician to repair the part.
@@rachaelsuzannebaker-trebil6785 well mine is still going. As I mentioned in the description, I think adding a standoff, board support under the center of the board would help. It really depends on how well of a reflow job we do. one could also add liquid flux to help the reflow job along. But I'm assuming your TV lasted quite a long time up to the point that you had to do this, right?
We actually bought it not working in the hope to use the screen as our newer version TV was faulty. We replaced the LED strips which was successful however we had somehow damaged the screen. The replacement TV we got going by replacing the T-Con with a newer version made for that model. 2 months later (yesterday) it stopped again being the problem being resolved because you shared your knowledge on your youtube channel. Again thank you so much. By the way I followed your instructions to the T but used my hairdryer. 🤪
And the case of the missing screw, ours is missing also so maybe its not missing. Couldn’t see a thread.
I'm new to the repair game your so helpful
I just tried this on my LG 55GA7900 and it actually worked. I can attest that you do need a high-temp heat gun because I tried this with a hair dryer for 10-15 minutes and it didn’t work. Bought a Werner 750 heat gun and heat it up for about 5-7 minutes and that did the trick. Seriously though, thank you so much for this video. I was skeptical at first, but my only other alternatives were to junk this nice tv or try to buy a main board which I didn’t have the time or desire to do. A+!
Sweet! What year was your TV? I think it's printed on the back on the nameplate.
@@timgoihl it’s a 2013 tv. It was one of the GoogleTV models. Really nice unit with really thin bezels. I scored twice, wife let me replace the TV when it stopped working, so we now also have a Sony 65” A80J OLED TV. 😁
@@clarkgourguejr Nice. So far it seems to be the 2010-2013 models. Now you have one for the man cave/shop!
Here to say this:
Well done with your video Tim! I'm going to try this. I appreciate your "amateur" style of explaining things because your understanding of components is PROFESSIONAL.
Trying this now.
PROJECT:
Model: 50UM6900PUA
Issue: Sound is normal.
`````````Brightness: 100%
During a movie, my TV went black. However not completely. I still have display, I can only see it with a flashlight.
Im going to attempt this Heatgun Reflow attempt, and be back with my results.
If your display is working the picture is still there, but you can only see it with a flashlight and your sound is working I'm going to say that your back light circuit is not working anymore. Probably don't need to reflow the chip. I've had to fix backlight circuits before sometimes it's just one or two LEDs in a series that go bad so then the whole whole line goes out.
If your model is pretty close to mine, then download the service manual and read the stuff about backlight testing. The service manual is very good.
Woww very well!! It worked for me!!
I baked the motherboard at 385 for 10 minutes. Worked on one tv and still working 8 months now. The other tv wasn’t so lucky but the plastics don’t melt at 10 minutes.
Thanks, it worked for me too!
Awesome! What model and year is your TV?
Was very helpful, thank you! And oven is a no no, reflow temp is 250 degrees Celsius on reflow station
From wiki, solder alloys melt between 180 and 190 °C (360 and 370 °F) are the most commonly used, so that's why the oven at 375 works. An oven works differently than hot air because the whole board gets heated through to 375. I think the reflow station temperature is measured at where the air comes out which is a little bit of a different measurement. The air is cooler when it hits the board/chip. But I agree with you, oven not a good idea!
timgoihl I’m in AU so I’m thinking Celsius, reflow station preheats board from the bottom also
@@MaxELECTRONICS I wish I had one!
Thank you. Very useful troubleshooting tips. Much beyond other videos that simply showed what a user did. Your video has tips on determining the problem to which board. Link to training guide most helpful. Tp44 on r412 well done.
systematic is the way to go, even when you think you know what's wrong!
Thanks
Thanks for the video. I have this same TV, and had some video anomalies (horizontal lines of varying lengths) and now the power light will just come on and then go off after a second or two. Already blindly replaced T-Con board - no help. I do have a heat gun to try and use on the main board as you show. QUESTION: did you take the main board out of the TV assembly to do this (like on a table, for example), or did you just remove the board's screws and remove the heat sink and leave it sitting in the chassis while using the heat gun?
I did what you said I removed the screws to the board remove the heat sink, and heated it just laying right there in the chassis
Protect that Tornado!!!
Great video! now that its been a couple years how is this fix holding up? Did you reapply thermal compound before installing the heat sink?
I've done three TVs, and all three are still holding up. I didn't add any additional thermal compound when putting the heat sink back on. Sometimes what I will do is just use a razor blade and scrape the existing compound back to the middle making a little puddle so that it pushes down and re-spreads out.
this repair includes no sound and no picture, or no picture only. how to repair if both the power supply and mainboard are found in 1 board, no sound and picture but led power on functions? thanks
Hi timgoihl, my tv turned on and clicked but no picture or no sound. It’s black but the standby light is on.
Timgoihl, Did you shorten the 2 pin that you have mentioned in the video?
I followed the service manual. I'm not sure exactly which pins you're talking about. But I did short some pins in the connector to turn on the backlight to test that. You may want to download the manuals and print them and it's very clear on what to do.
Thanks, fixed my 47LW5700 with a heat gun on the chip as you said.
I have the same model. How long did the fix last?
Mine has been working since the day I fixed it and made the video. Today is August 4th 2021.
Still going😁
@@galford50 still working👍
I have same tv 47lw5700.was your standby led blinking slowly red? Mine is doing that.
It actually worked for me
Cool! Heat gun or oven?
Oven .. unfortunately it stopped working after couple of hours .
@@kishorjagdale873 As I said near the end of my video, that's my concern... does the oven get hot enough to completely reflow the solder? also if you look at the edge of the board, is it curved or sunk in at the center of the board? if so maybe some of the bga balls are right reaching their pads on the board??? If I have to redo this again, I will also add a plastic or wood stand off under the big chip to help support the board... another thing to try is some liquid flux around the chip to help the solder reflow.
Questions? Did you use the hair dryer on the component side; or the opposite side. And did you use the hair dryer; or some other heating item? Thanks kind Sir
watch the full video and read the video notes below. a hair dryer probably does not have enough heat... I think this is mentioned in the comments. The first time I used the heat gun shown just on the top. The 2nd TV I did, I added a very small amount of liquid flux around the edge of the chip, then warmed the bottom of the board until the flux started to flow, then heated the chip directly for a minute or two.
Thanks for your great repair tip and excellent video.How was the standby led behaving on this set? Was it slowly blinking red? I have a similar set lg 47lw5700ta with standby led slowly flashing red and Tv not powering up.I had checked all psu voltages they were ok but i have yet to test backlight.I have seen similar repair solutions on youtube talking of heating the bga chip.Can faulty backlight cause mainboard not to turn on the Tv?
Please also note 47lw5700 is a LED tv and not plasma as you have indicated in your list.
My red power led acted 'normally.' I could use the remote to turn on/off the TV and you would hear the PS relay click and the the Power LED would toggle on/off. If it was just your backlight LED's the TV might(probably) still turn on and you might hear audio, and if you shine a bright light on the panel you might see a 'shadowed' picture. I'm just guessing its not the BL LED's. Here is a link from google about LG flashing LEDs: readytodiy.com/lg-tv-light-blinking-red-blue-green-etc-0051
Last week I reflowed the BCM on a 55LX6500-UB and bamm, I have another working LG. This time I used a *small* amount of liquid flux around the edge of the bga. I removed and supported the board so I had access to the bottom, then I heated the bottom gently until the flux wicked under the chip, then I heated the top for a minute or two, let it cool, reassembled and it powered right up!
Have same mode. Same problem and fixed the same way. Only lasted 3 months. Will heat again.
I cannot get the metal cover shield off, what do I do? I can heat in the oven with the metal cover shield on or does the shield have to be removed first.
I'm not a bake it in the oven kind of guy. To get the heat sink off, take the screws out of the board and lift up the board and then you pinch the little clips to push them through from the back. If you're going to do the oven thing I would look at the video I linked down below in the comments for a guy that did that. if you are going the oven method you can find a few people who did that with a UA-cam search.
Hi, I am wondering if you have share the repair service manual? I having different situation than yours, whereby when I shorted the Drive-On with the power pin in the connector from PSU, l couldn't see my backlight on, is that means my backlight need to be replaced?
I believe the service manual was linked in the information below the video. Make sure you are counting the pins correctly. I believe the single color wire is pin 1 then that row goes 1,3,5,7 and the other row goes 2,4,6,8,10. Depending on your model and the type of backlight strips, could either be a strip or it could be something on the power supply.
Worked
Excellent. It's worked on more than one TV for me too. What year is your TV? Mine were a 2010 model and a 2011 model, I'm just wondering if they had a production problem in those years.
@@timgoihl sorry I already gave it to the customer
Great video. Very informative. A neighbor just gave me her broken Vizio D55u-D1 TV. From what I have seen on some of the forums, the ball grid arrays may need to be heated up and re flowed. You mentioned that you would use flux next time. Is there a particular type you would use? Perhaps a very thin viscosity type? Thanks for your help.
I've had my flux syringe since 2001 and it still works. On Amazon I see this 247-FLUX-5 which looks like it might be similar, any no-clean flux in a tube should be okay. Even if it's gooey when you start as soon as it warms up it flows right under the chips. The other thing to consider is board support under the BGA. Before you take it apart try and notice if the board is actually sagging and if so put a wood or plastic block under the BGA the same height as the other standoffs, then reflow the chip...
@@timgoihl Thanks for for your quick reply. That 247 Flux-5 looks like it could work. I will read the reviews on it. I see that some people also swear by Amtech NC-559-V2-TF Tacky Flux. Similar to the one you recommended, it is tacky so the solder stays in place when it flows, and is easy to clean. I think you are right about the boards flexing when hot and breaking the connections. I will definitely look at my board when I take the TV apart tomorrow. A spacer block is a great idea. Thanks again for making this video and helping others fix their TVs. It is a crime to dump them into a landfill when there is so much more life left in them.
@@timgoihl Hi Tim. I tried to reflow my BGAs on my Vizio D55u-D1 TV today. I don't have flux yet, but I wanted to try it anyway. I removed the large heat sink from the chips and held the heat gun about 1 inch away from the chips. I did this for around 6 seconds per chip. I'm still getting the black screen when I turn on the TV. My heat gun is a Master heat gun hg-501a that goes from 500 Degrees to 750 Degrees F. Did you really keep your heat gun pointing at the chip for 6 Minutes? My heat gun moves a lot of air at 23 cfm. I think the Weller does around 2.
@@georgeterbush2976 You saw my heat gun... Its 250 Watt. The specs say: "The heat guns temperature at nozzle ranges from 750° F to 800° F (399° C to 427° C)." I used this pinpoint nozzle to direct the heat on the chip. But the nozzle probably reduced heat transfer to the chip making it slower. www.amazon.com/dp/B00LQR2Y28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BMKIFbGVFPCH1
so basically I was trying to slowly heat through the chip and melt the solder beneath, and that takes time. For me it was definitely minutes, but i wasn't counting. The oven guys were doing ~10mins at 375F but that heats from all sides, right? So its kind of a feel thing i guess.
With your big gun and its wide mouth you have to be careful to not burn the surrounding pcb. Its not really intended to heat components. If you could direct the heat and/or maybe shield the surrounding pcb with AL foil, you MIGHT be ok. Oh, and there's another comment on here from a guy who used a bigger gun... Look for that.
@@timgoihl Thanks Tim. I will make a reducer for my heat gun so it is more focused on the chip. I will also take your suggestion and place tin foil around the surrounding PCB. That's a great idea. My heat gun is 1680 watts vs 250w for the Weller. I have to be real careful not to over do it.
Hello, thanks for this video. What is the possible cause of damage to the refrigerator main board?. Our Refrigerator Freezer not freezing just cooling, but now its totally not working ,
keep tripping the electric once plug.
It's probably not the circuit board. It's more likely something to do with the evaporator fan, the defrost heater, or maybe the compressor. Somewhere under the fridge there will be a folded up tech data sheet with a schematic, sometimes under the front lower panel, or in the back by the compressor. If you Google "ge service manual" you might be able to find a document to help troubleshoot your fridge/freezer
@@timgoihl thank you so much. will try that
how do you remove those black support clips for the heatsink?
Watch the end of the video. It would be the reverse of how I put them in. Basically you take all the screws out of the circuit board then from the back of the board you will see that you can pinch the clips and push them through.
My model is 47LW5600.
Hello. I. have a LG 42LV3500 which turn on and the screen looks distorted with lines. Is there any way to send to you a video showing the fault that it presents please?
Make a video and upload to youtube, then share the link here....
My LG 3d tv 47LW6600 does this too. It has been working fine for 7 years until recently.. i did the reflow trick three times in the pas two months.. it seems to fix it temporarily only. Yesterday using a heatgun i had to bake the main chip for about 8 min at 200 celcius. ( i didn't bother taking out the heat sink though). Tv is working now but this is getting annoying.. have to do this every few weeks. The first time i tried i only heated the chip less than a minute, it only worked for 1 hour.., the second time i did 5 min. at 175 celcius.it. worked for 3 weeks straight.. yesterday i did 8 min at 200 celsius.. i use an infra red thermometer to monitor the heat.., cuz im afraid to overheat and unsolder it.. if the happen again i will remove the heatsink .. and if the problrem return again i will try to heat through the rear panel holes that are on top of the chip.. will save me time.
You're just not getting complete reflow of the solder joints underneath the chip. You definitely need to remove the heat sink. The purpose of the heat sink is to remove all the heat! If you read through the comments sorted by date you'll see one recent guy did his by using some flux to help the solder flow. You actually are trying to 'unsolder' the chip, you just don't want to move it! The chip doesn't actually want to move, as long as your board is level, that's how they put it on the board in the first place. it's just sitting there, they heat it up in the reflow oven and the chip actually 'floats' into place when the solder is melted - the solder wants to pull the chip right to the solder pads. And if you're board is sagging/flexing you might want to put a small piece of wood under the board to help hold up the middle of the board - that should also help. But the reason it keeps happening is you're not getting a complete reflow of the solder joints.
Nice presentation, thank you so much for the explanations and links provided.
I hope someone can provide some suggestions.
I found a LG 47LW6500 in the recycle room, and I wonder if I can fix it.
When I turn it on (all front panel touch buttons are responsive) it starts up, but you only get a scrambled image (with some small repetitive images, almost like some kind of weird fractal images, I don’t know how to describe) for a 3-4 seconds, then it turns black for a second, and then a few horizontal green lines appear randomly. I have an image not sure how I can upload it here.
Do you think re flowing the chip would fix this?
Thank you!
With the green lines and stuff like that I think you should run the T-Con board test first. To see if the t-con board alone can produce the test patterns cleanly. The t-con test is in the manual
@@timgoihl Thanks for suggestion, I will try.
@@timgoihl Turns out that reheating the chip was was the solution. I targeted ~220 C directly on the chip (removed the heat-sink), but I am not sure about the actual temperature, as I have crappy probes (thermometers). Actually I used 2 different probes (multi-meters with temperature function) mounted on the chip surface; one probe showed ~200, the other ~250, and I thought I would average this. God knows which one is correct. I wonder now how long this fix will work.
My TV has been going since I made this video. I still think this happens because the board gets so warm that the board flexes and sags under the video chip becoming concave if you can picture that... so the solder joints break under the chip. It could also be caused by the big heat sink pushing down on the chip. So my plan if I have to do it again is to (1) make wood or nylon standoff(s) (spacers) and locate it under or near the the video chip between the frame and the board, and then (2) add some liquid flux at the 4 edges of the chip before I reheat the video chip, as flux will help the solder joints reflow the solder better.
@@timgoihl The problem with this chip is that (I believe) there are 2 layers; the one that is on top is sealed, you cannot access it. So you can fix properly (i.e. adding flux, or even reballing) only the layer beneath.
I got one, I just can’t figure out how to take those screws off. So I just heat off the heat shieldat first. It runs for few weeks, then it stops working. I used the same method but it seems the tv is dead - every time I tried to open it I need to heat it again.
You can't just heat the heat sink because the heat sink just removes the heat you want to go into the chip. you must remove the black heat sink and then heat the chip directly. Unscrew the main board and then you can push the plastic pins out from the bottom of the board - you might have to pinch the clips together with a small pliers.
Service manuals are not opening for me at the link. Thanks.
Instead of clicking on the links in UA-cam try it opening this directory in your browser directly. Copy and paste into your browser goihl.com/42LV5500/
i did heat the chip but worked for about 3 months , do you have any other ideas ? if i add solder paste a little bit on side of the chip or if i replace the chip is it gonna work ?
Do not add solder paste. That will create solder Bridges. You could put a little bit of thin liquid flux around the chip, not a lot. Then heat the board from the back until the flux melts and then wicks under the chip. Then heat the top of the chip for a few minutes. That will help the solder balls reflow and remelt. The first TV I ever did I did not use flux and it is still working so my guess is you probably didn't heat it warm enough or long enough.
@@timgoihl ok thanks i put resin paste last time i was thinking was the good one im waiting to receive liquid flux then ill try it . which temperature with the heat gun is the best ? and thanks a lot for your hints
Great vid, I've a simlar problem on a Panasonic TX-58AX802B, I can't find a service manual for that, have you any advice on how to find one? The goihl site where you got yours doesnt have a search UI I can see, just seems to be a repository?
That's my website and yes it's just a repository that I use when I find a schematic so that it doesn't get lost on the internet. Search by the TV model number with or without suffixes, the various numbers on the circuit boards, use filetype:PDF in your Google search to limit the search results, it's really hit or miss when it comes to schematics. But usually power supply voltages are labeled on the boards that can help, look for warm spots or burn spots on circuit boards, things like that... It's much more challenging without a schematic.
@@timgoihl Thanks I got one, your PDF tip was the trick! No schematic yet...
Schematics included in Service Manual result! Thanks
Good score. What was the link to the manual?
@@timgoihl I'll post a comment with the link below this one but YT may remove it - YT being YT.
Any special tools needed to remove the heat sink pins? I can't remove them even when pinching end with needle nose pliers. Thanks.
No special tools, pinch bottom end together and push firmly from the back. Should pop right out. Keep your finger/thumb on the heatsink on the opposite side so you have something to push against. You might be able to use a small flat blade screwdriver from the top side at the same time to help it come out.
@@timgoihl Got it, thank you! Had to push a bit harder than I thought. Worried I'd break something. One other thing. Whats the recommended temp and time for heating the chip? Thanks again!
@@brianb8698 Read the video description and read through the comments. there's lots of questions about various techniques for heating the chip. electronic solder melts in the 200-240C range. Generally a hair dryer does not have enough heat but one of those paint stripping heat guns is probably too much. One guy used a PTC heater something like this on Amazon www.amazon.com/dp/B07VHP5RMG
@@timgoihl Thank you. I heated it up for about 7 minutes at that temp range and it worked! Thanks again for posting! TV saved!
Question my lg tv is the 47 smart tv ive tested the power supply runs fine I've got sound just no picture any advice ?
without knowing the exact model, its hard to say. Is the backlight working? you can remove the back of the tv and see if the backlight is glowing. if it is off, can you see a faded picture using a flashlight on the front? no backlight may mean bad led's or PS (or the main chip). If backlight on, then you need to test the tcon board and the main board (the chip). the chip has hundreds of connections and it can fail in many different ways.
@@timgoihl ive tested main board everything is correct sound works etc im going to be replacing the tcon board this week as every thing seems to be in good condition but faults lay in the tcon im not getting a correct reading
Can you use a paint stripping heat gun or hairdryer for this?
You don't want to cook/burn the surrounding circuit board!
The Weller 6966C is 250W and the temperature at nozzle ranges from 750° F to 800° F (399° C to 427° C). I also used a 6958 reducing nozzle to direct the airflow at the chip and not the surrounding board images.app.goo.gl/WsC9rfzT7koHQkBp9
a hair dryer is up to 1,500W, but its high air flow keeps the temperature too low. For that application you don't want to be melting people's hair off. The paint stripper probably has way too many watts and gets too hot and would burn the surrounding board. If it was going to work you would need some kind of deflector like the image I linked above and a slow air flow.
Your target temperature is about 400C, 800F. if you could build a deflector to control the airflow and temperature the paint stripper might work - do you have a laser temperature gun?
Thank you for that.
No I don't, but my heat gun has variable heat and air flow controls, with a range of 60c-600c, Air flow 200L/m-500L/m.
@@damienking6314 Sounds like a nice heat gun. you are trying to get the chip/board to about 400F to melt/reflow the chip. Maybe you could turn it down and shield the surrounding pcb with AL foil to protect it????
Ok, I'll give it a go today. Thanks for the help.
Do we need to have 12/24V otput if tv is not on, or shorten pin for “turn on”?
I do not understand your question. Best is to download the service manual and read the manual. You do have to turn on the power supply with a jumper to see the 12 and 24 volts. and another jumper to turn on the back light. That information is all in the manual.
@@timgoihl I asked that .. So, there is no 24V if the TV is not "on". Short-circuited pins, also no 12 nor 24V, means faulty power supply. I'm buying another, used one. Thank you!
@@TomyCroSound ah yes. Just make sure you're counting your pins correctly in the connector so you are shorting the correct pins. I believe pin 1 has a different colored wire. And of course the top is numbered 1357 and the bottom 2468 etc. And you can measure some voltages in the connector to make sure you're in the right place. There's just a standby voltage in the connector when the TV is not on, then when you short the pins the other supplies are supposed to come up.
@@TomyCroSound The power supply wont turn on the 24/12V output until the main board requests it, so even on a non faulty PSU you might only get the 3 volt standby showing if you dont have it plugged into the mainboard.
@@MGMan37 VERY well said!
According to schematics, for t-con rgbw cycle test, you have to pull pin 44 to 3,3V. Pin 44 is ground (as pins 42,43,45,46). How does this work?
I'm not sure what I said in the video, but it is Test Point TP44 as shown on Page 74 of the service manual. I dont know what pin it is on LVDS CN1... on Pg 76 of my own notes I have GND X'ed out and I wrote via tp44 and it works. It could be a pull-down resistor on TCON I suppose? Maybe thats why I found TP44 on the R412 1K resistor I mentioned... Do you actually has a Schemat for the TCON board? Maybe the Pg76 connector pinout is saying "the main board supplies gnd on this pin," and thats why you have to remove the lvds cables during the test, to prevent a short to ground!
@@timgoihl I have diferent set 42LV4500-ZC with diferent tcon. Cant find any schematic for tcon. On my tcon pin 44 suposed to be ground. My set has audio and backlight, but no picture. I would like to start rgbw cycle on my tcon , but I dont know how...
@@osmmi If this is a TV from 2010-2013, just heat the video chip and see what happens. I dont even bother with all the testing I explained in the video - now I just take them apart, heat the video chip and they ALL work! I just had to do all that the first time to figure out what was going on, and it might help someone find a different problem than the one I fixed...
@@timgoihl I tried with heating the chip twice with same result. Vertical and horizontal lines moving acros the screen.
@@osmmi well that's a bummer. I guess since you have audio it does imply that the video chip is working somewhat and that your problem is the video cable between the mainboard and tcon or the tcon itself. Did you reseat cables on both ends? Then I would test tcon... Check the power supplies on the board, and voltages at the caps. If I remember, the t-con must have a screw to the chassis for gnd when cover is off.
Is this applicable to a power surge damage tv. I got an LG TV 42" damage by lightning struck. I already try to replace the power supply board with a new one but it has still the same issue, wont power on.
Probably not... If the surge made it past the power supply board, then any one of many chips could be damaged like the little cpu that monitors the remote. With the TV plugged in you should be able to measure some voltages on the PS connectors to the main board. If that is not there, then look for a fuse or surge device in the ac cord path. I had a stike here like 12-18 months ago and lost some LED retrofit bulbs, but I still have some that fail months later - lightning strikes can 'weaken' electronics devices if it doesnt blow them out right away.
@@timgoihl thank you for your response and for sharing your ideas
Managed to repair one LG TV like this...:)....but now I have some issues with the picture of a LG 47LW5500 where I replaced the mainboard and now the picture is showing pixels of different colors that are spread around the generated picture...the 'deformed' pixels are shown only when something is being displayed...i.e. no pixels if part of the screen has nothing to display (like black background)....
Any idea what could be wrong and how to solve the issue?
Is this the same tv? You might check the ribbon cables from the main board to the tcon board (each end). unseat each clean, use compressed air on connectors. you could run the tcon/lcd test to make sure its not the tcon board. try different video sources (eg a roku vs OTA tuner) just to eliminate that. it could be the video chip, as there are hundreds of pins under it and if just 1 has a cracked solder joint, the failure modes could be more subtle like you are seeing (not all failures will result in no picture/no sound). What year/model is you TV? I've seen the desoldered chip problem mostly in 2010/2011 tvs so far, in my limited experience.
@@timgoihl Yes, the TV is the same....but had to change the mainboard....production year is March 2011 (model 42LV5500-ZC). Have already changed one ribbon cable but the result is the same....
Will try to do the tcon/lcd test and see what I get...
Update....just needed 10 minutes of heating the CPU at 250C and the picture is now clear!...:)
@@gregornemec7665so even the replacement board had problems.Seems it was a refurb and you have just repaired your original board
The method is working. but after 2 months..we ll have the same problem ..all we need is changing the main board ... new one
A new board isn't really going to help because it's probably just a refurbished old board with the same problem. You probably just need a little more heat or time when heating the chip mine's been running fine for 2 years. And I've done two other since then. Another thing you could do is try a little bit of liquid flux not much around the edge of the chip, then warm the board from the bottom until the flux melts, then heat the chip from the top. That's the method I've been using.
@@timgoihl thanks.. i ll do it again for 5 min heating ..lets see the result
liquid flux do you mean solder paste ?
@@maximelevesque5914 Definitely NOT solder paste, that will cause bridges under the chip and it will never work again. A liquid flux similar to this a.co/d/0jhInNq, but I did not use flux on the first TV I did and it is still going strong.
The 24 pin connectors for my 55LB730V model are refusing to come out - does anybody have any tips?
On the main board? Power connector or tcon? The power connector typically just unplugs. The very flat video connectors sometimes have a flat black or brown bar the flips up to release the cable. You could send a pic to my username at gm or yh.
That power supply being laid open and him waving his digits about had me nervous for him.
Nah.... only a small part of that board is high voltage...
I have an lg 55 " it shuts off after about 15 minutes when the house is warm and in winter maybe 2 hours . Any idea what it could be thanks
What can the TV do after it shuts off... does it actually turn off, or does just the picture go away. If the remote still works, you can hear a click on/off, and the red light works then its probably the video chip. If it is just 'dead' for a while, then I would guess something the power supply board warms up (chip/or cap) and causes the shutdown. Let me know the symptoms.
@@timgoihl it shuts off for about 10 minutes then turns back on itself , It doesn't make any clicking
@@walleyehunter8862 I just checked... the click is pretty quiet. There is a red standby light when itd off, which turns white when the TV is on - does the white light stay on while the pic goes away? If so, it could be the video chip (likely since there are so many bake-your-board videos). otherwise it could be an over-heated supply voltage that gets flaky when it gets warm (like a bad cap). That happened to my 2008 plasma TV.
@@timgoihl The whole tv shuts off just a red stand by light , I bought 2 cooling fans I'm thinking I should put them near the cpu
@@walleyehunter8862 I like that idea. would you do this with the back off to troubleshoot? I would do it in 2 steps - first just blowing on the power supply area. See if it keeps running. If it does, then blow it on the black video heatsink and see if that will keep it going. then you will know what area it is. let me know, i'm curious
I don’t have any electrical and soldering back ground. Thank
When your reflow you don't need to add any solder, all you have to do is heat up the chip and the solder underneath it should reconnect. Read the information below the video, there's a little heating device linked to Amazon which might be the way to go for you.
Does it still working?
Yes, mine is still working. so 8 months so far....
@@timgoihl Hm... Nice) i have an old 60' LG Plasma TV which had some problems with mainboard for last few years and yesterday it eventually stopped working at all (no picture, no sound, only backlight) =\
Gonna try your method) anyway: it is pointless to buy new mainboard for such old TV, it is too expensive, easier to buy the new modern TV... =\
Tried this and now it doesn’t do anything and is completely dead. I must have knocked the processor completely loose
Yikes! First time I've heard that happen. Did you see it move? How about all of the connectors are they seated correctly?
What they did was not for long. Maximum for 1 year, then repeat.
If you mean the fix does not last for more than a year, this could be true. I believe the board flexes (bends) under the heat of the video chip causing the balls to desolder or break. This is why I suggest that the board needs support (a wood or plastic standoff) under the video chip. I'm not sure the oven fix gets hot enough to melt solder. Also flux should probably be used to help the solder reflow better.
Then the thermo-rubber is put on other TV models better. And also increase the radiator, if this is really the case in the balls. There is also a delamination of the chip inside from the substrate, then only a replacement, but a lot of marriage, even a new one.
Que le cuesta a LG ponerle pines a ese microprocesador para que quede bien soldado, pero no,... hacen sus productos una mierda que solo duran un año cuando mucho. Saludos
May I ask You in advice where to find problem on main board in the same TV.
Problem find _screen shaking.
Here is video ua-cam.com/video/UoCXQjwvY6E/v-deo.html
T con replaced /checked is ok
Right, its probably not the tcon, but you could run the tcon test, just to be sure. next I'd try a few different video sources to make sure its not the tuner/antenna since the tuner is a separate module - OTA, hdmi's, a usb jpeg, etc. But there is just the one video chip which controls everything. different pins(balls) becoming unsoldered are going to present in different ways - no picture, no audio, maybe what you are seeing. i would not be at all surprised if the video chip needs to be reflowed as i describe.
@@timgoihl Thank you very much for explanation.I try other source signal and after reheat with hot air.
Many thanks.
43k views! Fuck LG tv's! hahahaha. Mine too no picture no sound. I think it's the mainboard. And no one is selling the mainboard for replace. I have the 42LE5400 it's so similar it was a Nice LED tv after 5 years it cracks
It will last for 2 months and you will have the same problem.Having it reballed is a longer lasting solution,
Mine has lasted for 11 months. It depends how good a job you do with the reflow which depends on the heat. and as I stated in the video and the text I believe a lot of this has to do with the PCB board flexing, so if you add a standoff under the chip there will be less chance of that. Also adding flux can help the solder reflow. Granted it is somewhat difficult to do without the proper heat gun tools but it is possible. Lots of people have success with this.
Just buy another tv!! Not doin all that
If you get a flat tire because you get a nail in your tire do you buy a new car? Or do you fix the tire? Fixing it also saves on e-waste, and saves you money so you can buy something else!