Does Fuel Deteriorate Faster Outside? Let's See
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- In the FINAL video of Taryl's Fuel Treatment Experiment (we promise this time) we had to attempt to start the INSIDE/OUTSIDE engines Taryl had sitting or 15/16 months with 87 Octane fuel in them. Will they start?? What does the fuel bowls look like inside?? Check it out here for the full story and also what Taryl plans to do NEXT with his fuel additive experiment. Thanks for watching and thanks to Ariens and Pro Parts Direct for supplying the engines and gas cans for us to do this experiment. What have you learned from this experiment?? Be sure to leave a comment with what you think of these fuel additives and ethanol fuel etc.
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Hi Taryl. I just wanted to say thank you. I'm a disabled vet on a fixed budget. I was given a Simple City (Massey Ferguson stamped on it) that was sitting in a field shed for 9 years. I watched your UA-cam videos and learned how to work carb, change ignition (it melted), alternator, solenoid, and electronic pto switch. Thanks very much. I watch from NH.
Thanks much for your service! My father-in-law was a disabled veteran as well. I don't think folks understand how much some folks have given to our country!
Thank you Sir for your service! 🇺🇲
Thank you for what you did for the rest of us
Thanx for your service Sir! Keep working in shop it saved me .
I remember growing up as a kid in the 1960's and my dad would have gas in cans laying around for ages and it would always work in his lawnmowers.
How gas has changed!
My E10 pump gas works over a year and a half old, albeit with fuel stabilizer. I think it's because my gas engines aren't picky, and I sure would never use it in a car.
It was leaded gas back then, which has its own issues (not all of them mechanical).
Non-ethanol premium is easy to find in my area. Think I'll be using that exclusively in my power equip. Thanks Taryl!
I use ethanol free in all my small engine stuff.
I live where it's HOT. This experiment would have been over a long time ago if it were done here. Heat makes the gas and ethanol break down in as little as 2 months.
@@TheBandit7613 The sad part is most non-Ethanol fuel is 91 octane and most small engines where designed to use 87 octane, which will reduce efficiency. Example, here in N.Y. small engines may or may not start in the cold with 91+ octane. It has a Higher flash point. It is what it is.
Higher octane fuel is no less efficient, with the exception to your wallet it's just less cost effective.
Last tank over winter use regular,during summer season ethanol mix is fine if its cheaper...
@@brandonupchurch7628 Umm... nope. Higher octane is less efficient in engines designed for 87 octane. It is basic chemistry. I've been in automotive awhile and seen the tests from Champion and A.C Delco .High compression engines need higher octane because the flash point of higher octane is higher. Lower compression engines need a lower octane rating. Why do you think it is harder to start a regular small engine in the winter at sub-zero ° when running high octane. I guess GM performance and Ford performance engineers don't know anything, right? Small engine companies inform you not to run 91 octane. I use it in the summer on some engines that I don't run a lot. However my John Deere needs to start in the winter...87 octane goes in it and has been that way since 1988.
1)Install fuel shut off.
2) Run engine out of fuel.
3)Remove carb float bowl and wipe bowl clean. 4)Spray inside of bowl with WD40.
5)Reinstall float bowl.
6) Drain fuel tank.
Ready ta go when you need it.
Yup, but 98% of America is unable or unwilling to perform that task.
Yep
Exactly!! I use Stabil all season long. At the end, run the engine dry and store inside. That’s all folks! Don’t overthink this.
i cant stop reading these comments in taryls high pitched comment voice
@@chris1newbury SAME!
I think you've done a heck of a job showing everyone that the fuel additives don't do anything and if you want your small engine to stay running to use non ethanol fuel and store the equipment inside. I'm gonna definitely be buying the non ethanol fuel from now on.
Mine sit 8-9 months using 10% Ethanol and no issues. Even after 20 years and after taking the carb. apart it was clean. I think that over the winter with the cool temps. and no humidity it is fine to store the engines with fuel in them. Now in Arizona 8-9 months maybe not so good. Not sure. Just telling you of my experience up my way. Umm, yeah I think ethanol fuel it crap though.
Just dont let it sit in the engine. Ethanol (alcohol) burns cleaner and more efficiently.
but it does its job too well, it prevents separation longer, so when the 10% ethanol is left in the engine the gasoline has evaporated, the water from that gasoline(petrol) has attached to the ethanol. Its not new water its water from the gasoline.
Run the engine dry and buy some liquid mechanic or little wd40 in the carb over winter, cover equipment, Empty the tank over winter and put in fresh fuel.
This has been a great experiment Taryl, and thanks for all of the time and effort you put into it.
I think your new test will be a MUCH better test as it's more realistic. Mine sits from October to the 3rd week of April. Starts right up. I use regular Sta-Bil. I swear by that stuff. My push mower and my lawn tractor both get it. NEVER had a starting issue in decades.
I'm a long time Sta-Bil user too with no starting problems. I used to have starting problems before I started using it.
Taryl thank you so much for doing this. It has open my eyes and I know it has many many others. I was a big seafoam guy but not anymore. Awesome test can't wait for the next
Me too, I used to work in a parts store and I used to recommend all these snake oils. I believed they all used to do something
It’s a misconception that seafoam will protect your fuel. It was more so designed to help clean the carbon buildup and such from engines (which it doesn’t really do that either). I get so many customers who come in and seem to think seafoam was going to fix their problem because they would say they put some in, changed oil and spark plug and it still won’t start.
@@lawnboy81SMS Indeed. Seafoam has worked for me when my old 1997 Ford Ranger starts sputtering on startup. A can of Seafoam or two over a couple of gas fill ups and it starts smooth again. But as for stabilizing fuel over months, it looks like it's a bust : (
In all fairness if I remember correctly seafoam isn't a fuel stabilizer it was designed to clean an engine in regular use as in engines that are used every day and not regularly added to the fuel. I could be wrong though, I'm by no means an expert LOL. I do agree with the idea that most of the claims is snake oil. The tests is the best way to know for sure. Tarly has done a fantastic job conducting this and has done a wonderful public service to show what these products do and don't do. The VP fuel was extremely impressive the ONLY carb. bowl that looked brand new I would be curious to see inside the cylinders of these engines for build up of carbon deposits as well, however checking the spark plug would be a very good indicator too.
You perform a valueable service! Enjoyed watching. Thanks.
Awesome experiment!
I love it. Non ethanol is available in high test where I live in Ottawa Canada and I think that's the go to if you can get it.
My yearly maintenance as a landscaper. Drop and clean the bowls on all mowers and change oil and fuel lines at the start of each season. All Briggs and kohler engines. Never had much of a problem after cleaning bowls. The jell is actually the ethanal when it separates. That’s why you won’t see it in the VP. One other thing about VP. As it’s no additives at all. The fuel is very good. But the downfall is the price from the epa regulations on pure fuel. When I run 20-30 gallons of fuel threw my small motors a month. VP is a bit out of my budget. But for someone that might run just a weed eater or a push mower a few minutes a week. I would recommend it to save them mechanical trouble. But my standby when carbs act up is berrymans B12 chemtool. It’s cheap and it works. Winter time tho iso heat in my snow blowers works better tho.
Thanks for the info. Very helpful!
wonder how race gas would do, its about half the cost of vp, think its about $9 a gal, been using it for a few years and so far so good,
I run VP 110 octane and haven’t have an issue. I understand it’s leaded and doesn’t have ethanol.
I do add seafoam, but that’s more for the other treatment benefits rather than the stabilizer.
I am also fortunate enough to have a heated garage and dehumidifier, that likely helps too.
That's what John and Issac run from cars and cameras in their mini bikes and Go-Karts. From Sunoco.
I'll go battery before $9 a gallon
@@justsaying4195 lol you would wind up spending way more on spare batteries just to be able mow verse's paying a few extra dollars for for gas
Mustie, if you get a chance sometime, and want to give this a shot, go up to North Hampton Air field.
They have a 24hr fuel pump right near the parking lot, and it accepts credit or debit cards for payment.
The pump dispenses both 100LL av gas, and also 91 octane unleaded ethanol free mo-gas for around $5 a gallon.
I’ve been using the 91 octane for a few years with good luck, and the engine exhaust doesn’t have that leaded fuel stink that gives me a headache like the Sunoco race fuel at Haffners did.
The answer is non-ethanol fuel works best.
Agree but at $25 / gal...
@@Paul1958R You can buy it at some gas stations as non-ethanol, or it might be labeled recreational or sports fuel, or some other variation. Usually about $.80 more a gallon.
@@Paul1958R I am in Michigan. A few gas stations near me sell ethanol free 90 octane fuel, $4 a gallon. Its about 20 min from my house. Money well spent.
I did buy 5 gallons of 87 octane with 10% blend for my lawn tractor at a secondary house I have back in April due to not wanting to drive 40 min round trip. Tractor would not start last week, had a carb bowl full of water.
Try taking out the ethanol of 92,93 octane fuel!
The best cure is to drain the fuel or run them dry but if you want spent $20+ per gallon on VP fuel go for it I think it huge rip off and even today Diesel fuel with it Ultra-low sulfur have dramatically lower storage life by a lot unlike from 80's as I have scene old truck, tractor, etc that have been sitting for many years on end and still fire up after 20 year as you drain the water out of the tank. The average gasoline today has a shelf life of 12 months depend on season in which it bought so long it sealed, while diesel fuel, if kept cool and dry, can be stored about 12 months unless your doing fuel polishing then the Biodiesel it 3 years so the best fuel to this day is still propane can be stored 30 years or more shouldn’t be a problem.
Taryl/Tim,
This has been a great series - thank you! I was wondering if you could comment/show if running the bowl dry by shutting off the fuel valve each time is advantageous?
BTW I was a 'Sta-Bil' guy.
Thanks
Paul
Thank you for taking the time to produce this series. You have answered many of the questions i have addressed over the years.
You forgot Kyle
The trick to running the bowl dry is to wait about 5 minutes after it dies, put the choke on, go to full throttle, and pull it... sometimes they will run for another 3 or 4 seconds.
then wait 5 minutes again, an try it. usually they won't start back up but one time.
@@travismauldin7194 I don’t bother waiting 5min I just flip the choke on and hit that primmer a couple times then pull till it doesn’t fire anymore.
I did that over a two year period on my Craftsman LT1000 repowered with an 11hp Briggs flathead. Every time I used it and was done, off went the valve, and ran it till it died. Then over the winter I did nothing just let it sit. Come spring, turn on the valve and start it up. It was fine for two years that way and started this spring (the second year). But halfway through the summer it died while I was mowing (I mow several acres). I removed the bowl and... a bunch of jelly inside just as Taryl has shown here. I had been using Sta-Bil too. So I removed and cleaned the carb and it's running strong again. I think from now on, no more Sta-Bil and I'll remove and clean the carb bowl every fall.
I've experienced gravel & grass Gnomes stealing dropped parts when working outside.
I think the Subaru/Robin engines are built closer to industrial, heavy duty use and the carbitraitors have larger less complicated jets.
Think Briggs and Scratchin have to meet more restrictive standards.
Same basic carb most of the honda and chonda stuff uses, they have to meet the same small engine emissions briggs does.
Thank you for the time and resources spent to provide people with valuable information. Both of those costing you money that will save people money. You and your boys are good people . I know you've saved me money over the years. Thank you again and God bless you and yours.
I feel so lucky to have so many stations with non-ethanol pump fuel around me. I feel bad for those that do not and am happy a market is starting up for that.
Excellent. Looks like pulling the bowl off and cleaning it every season is a good idea for the average Joe Homeowner.
A mechanic once told me pulled the bowls and wiped dry. He said gas would evaporate in off season and leave the water to rust the bowl.
Thats why Briggs makes a plastic carb now
@@barackobama5304 lol
@@barackobama5304 Hi Barack, I see you in a few other UA-cam sites. Nice to see you still frequent the comment section.
@@NY411Info Hi Mav! Do I remember you from the Steve Lav channel?
To those wondering: outside unshaded engines build up condensation(water) in fuel WAY quicker due to cool/heating cycle of morning cool to mid day heat of sun. Store in heavy all day shade if no other roof is available
Agreed, and if the small engine equipment has air filled tires, the shade will slow the dry rot process as well
@@rfcasey ohhh yaaa! Especially the new chinese plastic rubber tires. Garbage
Here in Windsor Ontario Canada at the Costco the 93 octane fuel is non ethanol (so they say). I have to use non ethanol in my 1980 Camaro because the Edelbrock carb is aluminum and it will void the warranty if I use the ethanol fuel. This was a great series and looking forward to the next. Thank Taryl.
Just wanna say that Terrel is the greatest I learn a lot from him his ambition and enthusiasm is top notch
I get alot of water in fuel even inside shop I had it . Ethanol absorbs water from damp air. I am dumping all fuel and running motors dry then put small amount of VP or Berrymans in each and run a minute put plastic under gas cap to seal vent.
A have dozens of Motors on all kinds of equipment.
Excessive job Taryl thanks for helping everyone!
My favorite channel
This was awesome! I’d actually consider seeing if acetone would work. It is a solvent and I’d be interested in seeing if it eats up any gel. Keep up the great work
Perhaps adding it would keep deposits at bay. Just an idea
Lol I’ve often wondered about acetone but have been afraid to try it.
It really depends on how picky your engines are. I use E10 pump gas, never drain fuel over winter, leave the engine outdoors, and just use any normal fuel stabilizer. Starts on the second pull during the first start of the season every single year, and the first pull for the rest of the season. I imagine a pickier engine would choke on the gelling that Sta-Bil causes
It's over 10 years old, and the carb only had some varnish when I last checked. It also helps that I live in a low humidity environment.
Those Subaru engines really impressed me. I think that if a engine is started and ran for just a few minutes helps as much as anything else. If the engine is not going to be used; Drain the fuel.
I have a mower that had a plastic part brake last year, so I bought a back up while I waited for the part in the mail. Then I just parked the spare and left it! (I know, I'm a bad mower daddy) No surprise it wouldn't start this spring. I took this video out to the garage and played the part where Taryl says, "It's not starting!" And just like with the inside/outside engines, as soon as he said the magic words, it started! Taryl is a miracle worker! Stay safe!
Another thing I'd say to do is figure out how put them under a load and see how they run.
Bought a boat that sat for a year or so. the outboard would fire up every single time outside of the water with the earmuffs on, put it in the water and from that slight back pressure it was a bear to start and keep running due to a dirty carb.
Just an idea, since the load on the engine is what brought the dirty carb to light.
Keep up the great work and content, really enjoy it.
the nut is in the trench behind the engine with grey base..left rear side of the motor
Well a fine experiment, I have found the best solution on small engines when storing for a long time is to run them dry of fuel prior to storing. In a recent forced experiment since I could not get to my equipment for two years, lawnmowers, chainsaws and outboard motors all started easily by this method. Also I only use non ethanol gas in such equipment.
Thank you Taryl & crew for all the dedicated hard work you put into this series. Been using non-ethanol pump fuel (because it's available) for years now and ZERO fuel-related problems.
If you don't have pump ethanol-free fuel, or find the canned stuff too expensive, one thing that helps prevent corrosion, is to add some two cycle oil to the fuel, which would be similar to Marvel Mystery Oil but it will burn cleaner, that's all Marvel basically is anyway, cheap two cycle oil. Two cycle fuel mix won't hurt a four cycle in any way.
Thanks for the test and all your labor .
In this episode, "It's not going to start" seemed to be the magic words to get the engines to start.🤨
I find a similar effect when I can't find something. A couple of good curses and there it is
I'm looking forward to the Nov to May experiment. I don't know where you'd come up with a bunch of small 2 cycle engines, but I'd like to see a repeat of the fuel additive experiment using 2 cycle engines since they seem to be more sensitive to bad fuel. Some of the additives would probably get eliminated pretty fast.
I have used non ethanol pump fuel in all my small engines for a couple years now and have had zero issues . Before while using ethanol fuel I had carburator issues in multiple engines.
Great video Taryl
The fact that outside engine with just standard pump fuel (87 octane) still runs with all that rust and water and crap in it speaks more to the engine than anything else!!!!! I am extremely impressed with those engines!!!!!!! Like... HOLY SHIT!!!!
That frost engine is like I'm going to fool taryl 🤣😂😂🤣🤪all four of them are like hahaha got you fooled tarly
YEAH TARLY!
@@fair2middlin that's what I'm talking about go taryl
Tarly, Outstanding video series and will no longer use fuel additives. The one question I have is, will carb cleaner quickly clean/open out the bowl, stem and jets to get it running? The situation would be a gas generator that is needed ASAP (power failure) and to get it running. Is there a emergency cleaning without removing the entire carb. I so would you make a video?
I was a GM mechanic and mostly rebuilt or replaced motors all day, Luckily for me I was the only guy who liked doing them,
We had a truck come in at 25k miles that ran on propane, my coworker had the engine apart and we all stood around in amazement,
This motor looked like a brand new short block, Clean as a whistle, That was the day I understood how dirty gasoline really is,
Taryl has woken me up about ethanol, We didn't have ethanol problems years ago, but we have learned to Iive with it,
Now all my go karts and mini bikes are Truefuel powered, (i cant find VP near me). I wont run pump gas in them at all.
Taryl , you are the best my friend!! I hope to catch up with you grass rats at one of the conventions this year. Thank you for everything you do. Not only do small engine parts disappear into gravel but 10mm and 8mm sockets disappear as soon as you leave the snap on truck or the Sears store(if they still exist).
Right on! Bring on round 2
Thank you
i get the same results with non-ethanol pump fuel as you got in the test with VP non ethanol fuel. 2 years, no jelly, only thing is a bit of moisture due to high humidity here, if the engines are not run every month. the carburetors on my newer engines have a drain so you can drain the water without removing the bowls.
The Key is run tank/fuel lines/float bowls DRY at end of season. Empty bowl afterwards if you can.
Put cap on with plastic bag under it. Put all old remaining fuel in your Ford.
We out a little wd40 in dry tanks.
I am 72 years old, and appreciate your time and effort making these videos. Never old enough to keep learning.
@12:15 To all you guys that run the gas out at the end of the season, this is a good reason not to.
The fuel dries out creating a crusty, dusty residue that can contaminate and clog up the carb needle valve passages when fresh gas is added in the start of the next season.
I don't care how many seals, gaskets and washers an engine has and or how tight the bolts are, ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE along with repeated HOT/COLD CYCLES, can and will cause internal condensation.
Of course. And gasoline loves water and attracts water molecules
@@markjohnson7508 Gasoline with ethanol loves it ten times better!!! Buy ethanol free and keep your equipment out of the rain.
The tanks are vented. Crankcase too.
@@robertp7209 true, but they're vented mostly one way. It's not a wide open vent anymore like on the old flat head engines
I am no scientist, but I am curios to know what would happen if you had your fuel shut off and created vacuum inside the tank. Would condensation still occur?
Non-Ethanol pump fuel almost impossible to find in CA. We get pilots to purchase us "100 Lowlead Av Gas" (which has zero ethanol).
I always start my lawn equipment from time to time throughout the off season and come spring it's ready to go
let me just say thanks for your hard work during this epic time in history. and you convinced me to to use the ethynol free fuel, in my small engine
stay well.
thanks for your conclusion, that stuff is mostly snake oil, but i do use seafoam only to "clean" rather than stabilize
Where is Ronnie, is he back in law school? I still think Stabil is worth it to mitigate the varnish issue, but it seems like nothing will stop the ethanol corn gelling from your test results. I always use ethanol free gas, we can get it here its just 50 cents more a gallon but worth it in small engines. I used it initially as many of my engines are old, and the ethanol is really hard on the rubber parts on old engines. Appreciate your work Taryl and company, you have helped me fix a lot of stuff over the years.
The leaf blower gets used pretty much year round, I pull the mower out once or twice in the winter and I wouldn't do that if it had a fuel shut off, but I do start the snow blower in the summer and that has a shut-off but that's more for maintenance and to take care of any issues it have had during the winter
Does the gel only accumilate when the fuel is in contact with metal? Because you'd think the inside of the plastic tank would have gel too, and the fuel valve wouldn't work. But I've never seen gel in a plastic fuel tank. If so, carbs should be made out of plastic then.
Some Hondas have plastic carbs, bowl too.
@@gordbaker896 yep, would have been interesting to see how they did in the test.
Maybe test between the different canned fuels.
I use truefuel premix for 2 stroke.
I found non ethanol fairly close to me but I used to buy a gallon of truefuel 4 stroke and at the end of the season run the tank down and add 1/2 gallon to my zero turn and run for 5 min and then put up for the winter. Worked like a charm.
Now I just always use non ethanol. I can only get 89 but it works great. Don't need to put anything in it either, but I do still use the stabil 360 because I have some left.
Glad I have access to rec 90 no ethanol at the pump here down the street. $4 a gallon is decent and worth it. No additives needed. Good comparison with the VP.
Hi Taryl, I know people who use Avgas in their lawn equipment. There is no ethanol in 100LL but it does have lead. I used to use 100LL in my chainsaws. They sure ran better. Would you consider doing a test using the 100LL? More of a test to see what the lead does to these unleaded designed engines. Thanks for your channel!
That's all we ever used. That's all they ever had!
outstanding peformance
Have you heard from any of the manufacturers of the fuel additives? Why don’t they seem to be working? What is their interpretation? Are any of them going to file a law suit? Love it! Good job!!!
Great experiment and video! The chemical formula for ethanol ends in "OH". Since that is a "negative" free radical looking for a "positive" molecule to balance or neutralize its valence, over time it easily attracts a molecule of Hydrogen "H" from the atmosphere thus converting it into "H2O" - which is WATER.
When you conduct the winter test, please include the "STABIL - STORAGE" among the list of fuel additives. It would be very interesting to see how it compares to its companion product "STABIL - 360".
I run the VP 4 stroke in my Honda generator and the 2 stroke VP ain’t my saws, weed eater and leaf blower. Good stuff 😎
Wow! What a difference in the one stored outside!
This is so good sir . Good job this is the best experiment I've seen on UA-cam
You can take the ethanol out of the fuel by adding the correct amount of water to fuel shaking it and letting it sit. Ethanol will bind with the water. You drain out the water mixture untill you are left with straight gas. Yes it works i did it with some 2 stroke gas that i accidentally left the cap off of on day that it rained. There is YT videos about how to do it.
Just use a bit of Heet in the tank and run the carb. dry when you go to store for a long time; has always worked for me.
I've never had trouble with pump fuel with oil mix or not but I keep my fuel tanks on everything topped completely off, I was using stabilizer but I won't anymore. Great info, thanks
Quick clean number 2
Thanks so much for checking the condition of the oil Tarly! Now I can sleep like a baby tonight….No worries!! 🤣
Well done Taryl. Thank you
You're smart and funny. Thanks for all the information and humor.
In a high pitched voice - Taryl, you need to get non ethanol pump gas because I want to know what the quality of non ethanol fuel is like
Because it's no longer going to be available, people like you entirely missed the point of this
Think back a while, the only gas you could get was non ethanol.
@@johnnellis3025 think back in the only engine you could get was your feet on the floor
Does that "***jelly*** that forms in the float bowl also also occur in the gas cans? What kind of stuff is that Jell? Has it ever been examined by a lab?
My guess is that the "jelly" is aluminum hydroxide and if so, won't be produced where there isn't aluminum, like in plastic fuel cans, plastic fuel tanks, fuel lines, etc.
Zinc or Aluminum oxide probably. In marine engines we had alot of issues .
Clorox bleach is said to dissolve white aluminum oxide
@@MitzvosGolem1 Studies were conducted in 2008 by Kruger et al. They showed that water at levels above 1% provided protection from alcoholate corrosion of aluminum in e10 fuel. Below 1%, there is increased alcoholate corrosion. Since 2008, water content of e10 fuels at the pump is to be below 0.3% and can be regularly found at 0.05%.
@@D2O2 That explains all the zinc and aluminum oxide and rust in carbs.
In Marine Engine s boats a issue for decades now from ethanol laced fuel.
Thanks for data though👍
I hope you try the Lucas ethanol treatment
A fuel truck driver told me that non ethanol pump fuel still contains some residual ethanol fuel. That most of their trucks arent drained all the way of ethanol fuel before refilling with non ethanol.
I had to re-read what you said, Yeah I bet they dont clean out a tank very well before switching fuels.
Non-Ethanol Pump fuel (Shell) available in my area. ($1.62 Litre) is slightly coloured by the Mfg'r.
Has nothing to do with higher/refined.
thats like $6 us dollars per gallon i think 🤔..here in Minnesota usa the non ethanol 92 octane gasoline is $3.89 a gallon
@@leeharris3061 Yup, Brutal. My XLR requires it.
Like to see if the same problem that happens in the carb, happens in a metal gas tank. If the gel gums up the metal tank too. I have a theory that the metal is more acceptable to the weather and the plastic is a better insulator from the weather and may prevent from gelling, (maybe) or slap a plastic fuel bowl on
Man, I felt like a kid waiting for school to let out while at work. So excited to watch. Thank you T.F.A. !!!
You get so many messages so you might not see this but... In the next test wonder if you could rig it to use a wood plank on the crank to load up the engines to see if they will run under a load. I also wonder why the fuel in the vented jars didn't gel like it did in the carb, is it reacting with the metal not the air through the jet hole? Would be good to put some carb parts in the vented jar to simulate a carburettor? Love the vids and don't take any stick what you've done is fab
petrol in the uk has just gone to 10% ethanol so your videos are giving us a heads up on what to do, thanks
Try adding isopropyl alcohol (dry gas) to one of the new expermental engines to see if it seperates out the water and prevents rusting of carb bowl.
Thanks man! Really enjoyed your outcome and your humor! Would like to see what BG44k and or Techron added would show. I have good results and clean bowls, but you always have the last word! Thanks again!
I bought a brand new ski doo snowmobile in 1998 I was determined to never foul the carbs by fuel negligence. My method consisted of removing the carb draining and using WD40 heavily. They look like they did brand new. This is the extreme way to do it. Another way to save your carb on these small engines just run it out of fuel completely, I do that to my wood chipper and it starts every time. 40 years experience here.
How are the Subaru engines, you see them on very select machines. Thanks, you and this channel have helped me a great deal. My grandson watched me check the needle and seat on a edger, he was shocked, it now runs great. Thank you.
That company truck is going to love you with all that gas you got to get rid of lol
Thanks Taryl.
Great experiment alot of my question found
I suppose we are fortunate here in my area of N.C. To have non-ethanol gas readily available at numerous locations.
Cool! This is really useful information for small engine owners. Thank you.
Thanks for the video and all of the information you give us. Did I miss something, I did not see jelly in the outside engine, just rust. I wonder why jelly was in all the insiders and not the outside one? Next test try to run all engines the same period of time. Thanks again for all your help.
Next time my mower won't start, I'm going to say "not startiiiiing" so it immediately starts up like both those did. LOL
Great video the whole series has been Great. I thank you for your trouble and your wisdom. You are the man my friend. Keep up the good work.
The non ethanol pump fuel in my area is dispensed out of a pump that also dispenses regular gas. You select it just like a different octane level, so it used the same hose as the regular gas. This makes me a little leery, since regular gas will be left in the hose at first. I always take 2 cans and fill up the one for my tractor first (to get any regular gas flushed out of the hose), then I full up the second can for everything else. Just something to think about…
we saw the float bowels jell,but dose the tank jell or is the jell a result of contact with steel?
Best fuel experiment on UA-cam...
Phenomenal info,,,thanks for all the testing..
I like Taryl alot, and there's you're dinner..i have learn alot from him,, thank you Taryl..
You are truly an expert and funny as hell. lol I agree with you on the oil. I did the same thing and the best thing is change it in the fall forget it until the next year. Crazy to drive 120 miles just for non ethanol.
Ahh, Nice. I didn't know that was non- ethanol fuel. I thought it was an additive. I was one of the ones that said to try the non-ethanol fuel in your experiment. I myself appreciate the effort you and your team has done, because I would not waste my time doing this. I use 10% Ethanol and store my John Deere's in the winter in NY around November/ October with no additive inside in 0 to sub zero temps F°. to June and they start fine. Kawasaki FC540 engine x 2. I took the carb. apart in 2018 on one of the Deere's due to it was spitting gas out of the overflow(20 years old with no carb. service) and was choking the engine. It was clean when torn to bits (Big Clive's sayings), but needed a needle valve replaced . No snot in the bowl or lower half of the carb.
I hope you know most of us here appreciate your team and yourself giving up a lot of your time to do these vids. Thanks. :)
Great test!! Great series!! I always drain the gas from my power equipment at the end of the season (lawn mowing, snow blowing), even the fuel tank. You ought to see if there is water in the gas cans.