@@ProjectFarm Loved your video! But here's the question: I'm from a non-english speaking country. So the subtitles help me a lot to understand what you're saying. But the synchronization is off. When you have spare time, could you solve that? Again, thanks for the videos.
Actually they all deserve to be monetized based on viewership and popularity. What's wrong is the fact that UA-cam picks things they don't like and chooses to no longer monetize them. But we are still watching so......
@@deusexaethera True. Its a shame really, because however good the public transport may be, it just can't replace the freedom of going where the fuck you want when you want to
Fantastic video. Wow you put lots of work into this. Hats off to you. I find it strange that the deposits are somewhat equivalent inside the chamber. I expected a much cleaner overall with the shell.
I run shell vpowernitro in my 1993 Volvo 940 and it’s got over 300,000 miles still running strong. When I bought the car it was owned by an older lady who did slow city driving with cheap 87, 2 years later if 93 shell and the exhaust pipe looks substantially cleaner 👍 I would recommend top tier 93 octane gasoline to anyone with an older car, it literally removed the po420 after running top tier 93 for a year it’s good gas!
I believe it. Something I am wondering is. People say as a engine ages it develops carbon deposits that raise compression, now wouldn’t that mean that it would run better on higher octane fuel as it ages.
I have a 2008 impala 145k miles. Changed to shell v. Idles run 100% better. No lights on dash. Drive tran is perfect. Add conditioner to trans, one quart, and helps with shifting.
Awesome! 940 sounds like a nice ride. I had the same on my 2013 xc70. Granny drove it, it knocked now and then and I lost a quart of oil between changes. After about 6 months I no longer have blow by. Running smooth.
Check out the video where he tests the two-stroke bike kit and rides around on his property. Definitely don't think he has to worry about neighbors lol.
I love how he goes through the effort to make the tests fair and scientific, Going to buy new spark plugs, Running old fuel out of bowl, Running The space heater, etc. Love non-bias content like yours, big supporter and viewer of this channel!!!
I always wondered about that super fuel. Always sceptical, always just saved on the gas and used my favorite additive. Great job! You obviously put a substantial amount of effort into the testing.
Agree. Most channels leave me saying some variation of "yeah, but they didn't check, change, test X" So you don't really know. Not this channel. Also, great editing that doesn't have me skipping around to get to the content.
@@ProjectFarm I know this is repetitive, but I firmly believe that this test is a good one! If you made this video, then I missed it, I apologize. I comment this same comment in multiple videos for redundancy only, not to be annoying. With your vast amount of viewers, I don't want my reply to get lost. Canned Fuel for small engines Vs Pump fuel 87 and 91/93 whichever you can obtain. My weed whacker has a warranty void if pump gas is used. I'm interested in the fallowing results: -Efficiency -Power -Cleanliness I hope you can do this project! If you make a poll, I hope this ends up in it! Thank you so much for your videos, they've helped me and many others a lot!
I’m here to find out but I’m not interested in performance just to help the diesel ticking noise I’m getting under load and hope I can cure it without having new injectors fitted. Project farm answers pretty much every question I have or have had about all kinds of things. His channel is invaluable to me and he’s kind enough to reply even if I ramble on with my comments lol
The whole point of v power is that it has a higher octane and thus more resistant to detonation. This generally means when tuning an engine, more power can be achieved without causing damage to the engine. Shell promotes more mileage and cleaning because most people don’t understand the issues of detonation (or care) but they are swayed with getting more miles per gallon.
Detonation isn't a problem with modern engines though so there's no benefit. It only matters on older cars which are rarely even seen on the roads these days
@@mrcaboosevg6089 timing delay reduces power so it's still a problem, it also happens after detonation has already taken place because the knock sensor needs to detect it before it can delay timing.
@@mrcaboosevg6089 My summertime fun car does not have Any computers on it .So the higher octane Does make a Big difference in performance . Also E85 is unobtainium up here B.C.
V-Power gasoline is mainly for high compression ratio engines and supercharged engines, which can improve work efficiency. However, most of the gasoline engines of lawn mowers and generators have a compression ratio of 8:1 to 9:1, which does not fully demonstrate the advantages of high octane gasoline.
That's the point. In simple engines like this v-power can actually be less efficient, in high compression or turbo engines there will be benefits and injection system will thank you for using v-power. But personally I will use v-power only in sport car for fast driving, for daily driving car regular fuel is more than enough.
@@oluskloc lol, as far as I know I haven't seen many people with turbo charged and supercharged fast sport cars around, I mostly see SUVs and Honda civics
Here's the truth: I deliver fuel to several places, and the EPA controls the recipe for gasoline. All gas companies get it from the same place, however it's raw gasoline. However it's not all the same. The fuel then has the additives added that separate one brand from another. Shell using nitrogen is the trademark. Going back to the original point, removing all additives, fuel is all the same. Shell trucks line up at the same racks as bp and marathon, so bear all that in mind.
That's is so true lol is the type of sauce they use it all comes from the same hole at the end of the day but definitely I seen the difference on my 01 Durango that my motor is on it's way out v-power gas brings it back and also prevent the check engine light from coming back much longer and also it's a premium fuel as my truck requires all ather fuels are not as good I was also a big fan of mobile gas but it is second choice third choice is sunoco but v power is top for me
@@robertsrt each rack to load at can be different. Shell uses their own trucks and may be pre loaded, but it's hard to say. Or they have contracts with the fuel supplier and it gets mixed in off of their own tanks. It's very hard to say. Rest assured the additives are added, but it's different at each rack to confirm unless you know someone who hauls fuel for shell. It's great fuel indeed, and I mostly use v power myself in the winter and e85 for summer
I have only used Shell V power+ nitro in my 2016 ram 5.7 hemi. Just hit 120,000 miles. Changed plugs for 1st time and all 16 looked almost brand new still. Have never had a code thrown and not a single issue at all so far.
All grades of Shell gasoline are top tier. Therefore I would like to see you repeat this test using Shell 87 octane instead of Vpower. Thank you for consistently turning out awesome videos!
Only higher compression motors take advantage of higher octane. Adding lead to the fuel stabilized it to increase to over a hundred octane. Very informative channel. He’s gets right to it without dragging on and on.
@@williamwallace9620 ….Aviation fuel does have a higher octane rating but it’s formulated specifically for airplane engines and the environment they operate in. A lot of people use it in their high compression engines for the octane requirements but I’m not sure if it’s worth the extra cost and hassle of dealing with airports. I also need high octane fuel for my 12.4:1 compression Ford 351 Cleveland drag racing engine but the 93 octane pump fuel available locally isn’t enough. Fortunately the drag strips in my area sell a wide variety of the highest octane leaded race fuels available plus 100 octane unleaded fuel that I run in my supercharged daily driver when I race it. I just stock up enough race fuel to last in between my visits to the drag strip. Obviously the AV fuel works for you but if you have a race track nearby you might want to consider it as a option.
@@ProjectFarm …. I have a good example of serious power gains from using a premium 93 octane pump fuel compared to regular 87 octane fuel. I have been getting a rental car once a month for the past couple of years and it was a pleasant surprise to find out first hand about modern automotive technology and the small displacement turbocharged/inter-cooled engines available in rental cars. Some of the rentals I got included a Twin turbo Infinity, Ecoboost 2.3 liter, turbo/inter-cooled four cylinder Mustang (my favorite), Camaro V-6, Challenger V-6, Charger Hemi V-8 and more that perform only as good as the power train control module allows based mainly on inputs from the O2 and knock sensors. The PCM tunes for peak performance when I fill up the rental with 93 octane on the first tank full. The rental agency requires the tank be refilled when returning so people buy the cheapest 87 octane to top off the tank upon return. None of the cars I rented would perform anywhere near their turbocharged or high compression engines ability. Not until I got some 93 in the tank and the performance increase was substantial. For example, the Twin Turbo/inter-cooled V-6 Infinity literally wouldn’t turn a tire when hammered at a standstill and accelerating to 80 seemed almost impossible. After the PCM quit pulling out boost and ignition timing caused by knock retard and optimized the tune for 93 octane, the results were impressive. The Infinity would boil the tires on launch and zip up to 140 with ease. The results were the same with all of the listed rentals. A full tank of 93 octane gasoline is well worth the cost when having a blast in the rental !
Several comments state the significant difference between US and European octane rating. This is mostly due to the different ratings used. US gasoline is rated in AKI (anti knock index) and European is rated in RON( research octane number). The reality is that they are not that different. 87 regular US is about 91 RON . European regular is 95 RON which is about 91 AKI, basically euro regular is us midgrade. European premium is 98 or 100 RON which is 93-95 AKI. However... running expensive gas in your car makes no sense if it doesn't have a high compression ratio or forced induction.
Over here in the UK I try to only use Shell. Anything else including the likes of Esso (Exxon) or BP, I notice pinking and a greater chance to stall when pulling away slowly. This happens even though I'm only driving a 2.2 ltr Vauxhall Vectra. When I had my modified Subaru, "Shell V Power" made a massive difference when the tuner was mapping the car.
Don Pablo Cirkle K here in Norway is markeding their fuels as the «Miles» brand. They also have a premium version of the 95 Octane and Diesel Called «Miles+» .. The plus proves better milage and better lubrication, clean burn and cleaning of the engine. I tested the milage of my fairly regular 91 Toyota Corolla 1,6L 16 valve EFI (4A-FE Petrol engine) .. the milage in my Corolla did actually gain about 80km extra milage. Driven same speed, distance and everything was identical. That impressed me.
I've noticed a difference in sound and acceleration, as well as top speed in my low compression (about 6,5 to 7 bar measured with the hand-starter) Mariner 10hp 2-Stroke Outboard Engine: With 95 Octane, I get better acceleration (about 2 to 4 seconds quicker to planing - didn't exactly measure it, but it is noticeable: I had a clear disadvantage against another boat with RON 95 fuel when accelerating) but lower top speed and the engine is louder at WOT. With Ultimate 102 from Aral (didn't test any other fuel - Shell is absolutely no-go on a boat because of the Ethanol-Content) the top speed is 2 to 3 knots higher (Top Speed: about 25 knots) and the engine-sound has less high frequency content (sounds more pleasant), but acceleration is lacking. Also with Aral 102, the engine runs cleaner and seems to burn more of the oil. But it runs hotter. As to why, my theory is, that 95 RON Fuel burns faster, creating higher pressures and therefore more torque. At high enough RPMs, however the fuel is spent too fast and starts to cool down while 102 Octane fuel keeps burning longer and therefore keeps the temperature and pressure up. Or the premium-fuel simply has more energy per liter. This is probably the reason why premium fuels tend to cause higher exhaust temperatures in engines that don't have variable spark timing. There were some problems with Evinrude E-Tec engines a few years ago: The versions without knock-sensors tended to throw EGT-Errors and switch to safe-mode if ethanol-rich (10% or higher from boat gas-stations) or high octane fuel was used. Engines with knock-sensors developed more power and didn't have any problems. Unless the Ethanol had bonded with water, then the fuel tended to destroy injectors. :)
Two thoughts: 1. When measuring things like fuel, it is much more accurate to use weight than volume. 2. The cleaning effectiveness should be measured over a much longer time frame. It is possible that an expensive fuel would continue to clean, keeping deposits down, while a cheap fuel would continue to build more deposits.
possible, but as a person who has physically looked and cleaned his GDI Intake Valves, seems top-tier or poop gasoline still doesn't prevent carbon... Additionally, there is almost no definitive literature on what top-tier is...
My Infiniti G37 requires premium. I filled up with Chevron premium and it ran like shit, went to vpower. Couldn't find a shell close by and put Chevron in again, same result. I believe my car is racist.
This is the best comparison/test channel on UA-cam, bar none. Especially if you value honest, non-biased, no b.s, straight to the point, no beating around the bush good information. Every minute of all your videos are informative, and do not waste anyone's time. In a society that has such short attention spans, this format works perfect, and we appreciate all the work you put into making it that way!🤙
You should test these on a fuel injected engine. Something that will advance timing for the higher octane. Running it on a carbureted engine with static timing will give you the same mpg. The engine isn’t optimized for the better fuel
I mentioned fuel/air ratio, controlled by an oxygen sensor. I didn't even think about the fixed ignition timing used on these small air cooled engines.(I wish there was a way to go back and edit my last reply)
Some years ago I did some test on my 2010 Subaru Forester. On that car/engine I got significantly better gas mileage on lower octane fuel - so long as I met the minimum required in the specs. Then I looked up the manufacturer's ratings and they said the same thing - better gas mileage on lower octane fuel. A higher compression engine would, of course, benefit from the higher octane fuel; but not my Forester.
High comp engines need high octane fuel. High octane burns slower/cooler allowing for more compression and advanced timing without pre-detonation. Better cleaning is just a side benefit.
Sterlingjob thats not true. High octance gasoline enables you in much more pre-ignition because of its high knocking resistance. Low octance gas preignites on its own given higher compression. Thats why if your engine figures it has knocking going on, the ignition is retarded
He's only half way right. There's things in the cheap gas to keep the engine cool. High compression requires more to move them pistons. Therefore needing that gas. That has absolutely nothing to do with cooling the types of pistons. High compression pistons are used so u can make the power and not break shit. Friction is what's causing the heat. And with all that taken away to help cool it and make them move faster it will create more heat obviously. When u buy a care they now put the recommended gas on some place of the car. Older carbed cars require non ethanol because that is what they had back in the day and they were not made for type of gas we have today. It tears up the gaskets and prints amongst many things. But newer cars are made to run on this shit gas and therefore u should run the required gas and not be an idiot and be a follower lol. People always think its ok to put premium in the car when all your gonna do is destroy shit. They started carrying the non ethanol gas bc a lot of power sport vehicles require it. Atvs, sleds, all the antique cars. The antiques can't run on this shit. There is a huge difference when u put shit gas in an antique. Where I live its very hard to get non ethanol. I have to drive 20 miles to get my gas and not everyday do iyou wanna do that in a power hungry muscle car.
Jeremiah Arnold they put ethonal in gas because it lowers emissions and is cheaper because it's made in America so it lowers the price a little flex fuel cars can better adapt to the mixture from the factory
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your videos! You were speaking to my heart when you said, “You want your engine to be in tip top shape and last a long time.” All gearheads can definitely relate to this statement and also folks who just want their engines to last long and be reliable. From what I was taught in auto mechanic school, higher octane fuel resists combustion compared to lower octane fuels. High compression performance engines and/or forced induction engines can benefit from this in order to avoid knock or premature detonation due to high pressure, which leads to high heat. No reason at all to use high octane (premium) gas in an engine that calls for 87 octane. The inner mechanic in me does recommend using higher octane fuels in engines that calls for it in order to respect the design of the engine and all those engineers who worked tirelessly. My teacher who was an elderly man and in the business for ages recommended Techron and I trust his words.
High octane doesn't resist combustion, it resists detonation. I had one motor in a fleet vehicle, a Ford Taurus with a V6, that recommended 87 but ran better on high octane gas. I tested it many times going from San Jose to Reno, the MPG was consistently 2 MPG better, and the engine torque at low RPM and partial throttle felt better. I figure the sensors in the engine must have noticed the difference and advanced the timing with higher octane, despite the owner manual not mentioning. I tried the same thing in my Camry hybrid now, and it made no difference.
@aluisious detonation is early combustion when it’s not supposed to happen usually before top dead center in the power strip of a four cycle engine. It’s the same thing. You want combustion, but at a specific point in the timing of the engine. If combustion happens bc of excess compression with a supercharger/turbocharger or in built high compression engines you have detonation or maybe due to build up of crud which increases compression
Projectfarm: "If you're like me, you want your engine to be in tip-top condition" Also projectfarm: Spends entire channel replacing oil with honey, petrol with wd40, cylinder head with Jb weld.
I’d love to see a test on how shell gas effects an engine long term vs cheap gas. I’ve been using shell only for over a year now and could tell a massive difference over running a mid tier brand. Acceleration is quicker and a lot smoother, and the engine feels like it’s healthy. Would definitely like to see an in depth test. Keep up the amazing work man!
Depends on the engine. Some engines run better with higher octane and require it for maximum performance. Some engines don’t give a fuck. It’s down to what your particular engine needs.
@@giantsfan714 I’m mainly referring to the fuel mixture and additives, not the octane levels. Shell has more additives than other gas brands out there. Especially cheap mid tier gas
These are the kind of open Whistle-Blower consumer comparisons we definitely find insightful and very helpful, thanks for all you do and keep up the great content.
Also, why would he bother keeping a giant mound of used head gaskets? I am sure they are thrown away promptly after removal from the engine. I'll be at he might keep one or two for a just in case scenario.
Thanks for another great video. I started using Shell V-Power in a '07 Mercedes E320 with the M104 engine. At 225k miles, I did not expect much of an improvement, but there is. I had been using a quality Premium Gas, but I experienced a slight, but noticeable improvement in performance. I don't think is a function of the cleaners as the injectors, pump, filter and fuel lines were replaced a month before. If it keeps the engine running smooth until a typical rebuild at 400k, the .50 a gallon surcharge is a good ROI.
@Peter Angles No, V Power definitely has an edge over bog standard fuel. Any car it is put in is noticeably sprightlier. Its straight up worth the cost if you drive any car that's not a cheap pos.
Good video... HOWEVER: Going from one fuel to another in a mower engine is useless, because it cannot advance the timing to the brink of detonation, in order to extract maximum power & efficiency. Modern automotive engines continually monitor the airflow into the engine, the oxygen content of the exhaust, and the KNOCK SENSOR to determine if the engine is running at max efficiency. The ECU checks these things (along with a host of other sensors) hundreds of times each second, and along with the throttle opening position, allows the computer to make sure the engine is running optimally. No matter what car/engine/recommended octane, a modern engine will ALWAYS produce more power and efficiency with a higher octane fuel, simply because the ECU can advance the timing further using high-octane fuel, which produces more power (up to a point, of course). The key here is the knock sensor: that's what allows the ECU to know when it's gone too far advancing the timing, and when to pull it back a bit. Simple mower engines (and older carbureted engines without knock sensor technology) cannot make these adjustments, so running on lower octane vs. higher octane doesn't do any good. Now, as for Shell 'V-Power Nitro+" (advertising EXTRA NITROGEN for MOAR POWAR shenanigans): you'll be hard pressed to actually find any, except at certain company stations, because most stations (even the "branded" ones) won't necessarily buy the ACTUAL Shell product, instead going with whoever is selling the cheapest stuff that day. There's only 6 or so distributors of fuel, including Shell, Chevron, and E/M; and they all sell the three different octane levels without any of the "proprietary" additives (which they add to the basic fuels when asked, for that premium price)--so why actually PAY for the premium stuff when they can sell the normal fuels under the "V-POWAR" label??? Answer: THEY DON'T, they just sell normal fuels as graded and regulated by the government, except for the VERY few company stores that carry the fuels, to help prevent charges of false advertising (which isn't even being enforced anymore). We won't get into watering-down practices; or the various companies' advertising claims that their special brews "add more power; more efficiency; cleaner running; 50hp more with the sticker/; longer, harder...(er, um, wrong commercial): it's all a massive load of horse manure--in fact, horse manure does more than most of their silly additives. Bottom line: don't buy into the hype, just get the fuel you need for the best price you can find, from the MOST FREQUENTLY VISITED stations, because the faster they go thru the fuel, the less water accumulation will occur, which makes the BIGGEST difference in fuel quality. Keep your engines tuned properly, with good oil, and you'll be good to go for a very long time. (let the flames begin....)
I started using shell V Power after I noticed that’s where all the Porsches and Exotics pump. Tried it for my old BMW and the engine sings w this fuel. Feels much more powerful. It felt sluggish w the grocery brand gas. My car requires 91.
Shell claims the V Power Nitro will remove 70% of engine deposits if used continuously for 2,500 miles. Source: ChrisFix video released 10-16-19. As always great video! Thanks for making them.
Its mostly a bs claim because the claim does not apply to gasoline direct injection engines, which is the majority of new cars. It applies to port injection etc
6 full tanks of that premium full on a bmw N52N and the engine threw a knock error in cylinder 4 and 6. This means that the carbon buildup on cylinder is being cleaned slowly.
I have never really cared about cars, tools, or 90% of the things you generally BUT I love your videos. Your back catalog has been an absolute pleasure to watch.
Dont let the comment haters get you down @project farm people love your videos(me included) keep doing what your doing.. Stay unsponsered if desired and enjoy what you do
Hey, my man. I hope you're not testing premium gasoline in a diesel vehicle. That's a sacrilege. Rudolf Diesel would come right up out of his grave and replace that premium gasoline with peanut oil
@@tasmanmcmillan1777 i do an average of 1000+ miles per month for work. Loads of highway/motorway. 90% of that using cruise control. And in all my vehicles i noticed definitive increase on range per full thank. Performance less noticeable but definitely something there.
After being a subscriber for several years, it’s great to see an older video to see how the thoroughness and quality has been maintained throughout the years (or improved) while still maintaining the channel’s original roots. Excellent job Todd!
It was expected that both fuels would give the same run time as a carburetor is a fixed orifice. You would have to run it on a fuel injected engine that can adjust afr and timing to optimize for the fuel difference.
Roni92pl timing can definitely be adjusted. Ever heard of VVT? IVT? VVEl? Almost every manufacturer out there has variable valve timing, timing advance. They have variable compression engines in base model cars now days.
@@imallupsidedown firing timing sure, you can adjust it freely, but when valves close and open is mechanically.connected.to crank therefore non adjustable, especially.via.ecu. I dont consider systems like vanos,.vtec etc adjustable, its just mechanically changed depending on rpms... Unless you consider physically replacing camshaft adjusting... But its not, its just changing / modifying engine parts, cheers.
Considering the short time the engines ran with the types of gas, from an engineer's standpoint, it is quite an impressive outcome in favor of the expensive gas. Imagine the difference if you used it your 200.000 miles/5000 hour-car engine.
Yup it's definitely about long term vs short term, not only that but the cheap gas he used is it unnamed or we talking Shell 87 or corner store gas station 87 it makes a difference, and this only seems to be a Gunk test, there's corrosion,wear friction, Piston rings etc etc
I would worry about clogging up the small openings with gunk the detergents break loose. Like flushing a transmission, it could backfire on you. You think you're doing something good for your transmission and then it stops shifting because all the stuff in the fluid helped it to shift. You take that away and you get a lot of slipping on that old transmission. Removing too many deposits too quickly from your engine could clog it up and wreak havoc! If you started when it was new, it would be fine. But if not, I think it's a big risk. Unless it's to the point of needing to be rebuilt, I wouldn't take the risk.
This is my favorite gas to run in my 19 GLI. It recommends premium (91 technically), but my area has only 93. This stuff does work. I always get better mpg with it. And there is a truck stop near me that is always so busy and has shell gas. That’s where I get it. Since this stuff is top tier certified, and the truck stop has a high turnover rate, the car is very happy.
Thank you for the video, this is my experience. Like many of you in 50 years I have owned a number of cars, I used to use generic gas, 7eleven, Morphy USA, Racetrack, etc gas was cheap back in early 2000's around $0.70/Gallon so full fill a tank was not a problem but we always have the habit of save some money and this is my experience, I switched to Shell 20 years back and I noticed the Shell gas give me better millage also never had any injection problem in my cars or motorcycles, with generic gas gauge went down faster sometimes ridiculously fast, back in those days with a non fuel injected car I had auto start problems, the engine was doing some explosions after turned off with the key, the problem was the carbon formation inside the camber was thick and so hot, hot enough for burn the residual gasoline in the combustion chamber, in order fix it I removed the motor head and cleaned the whole thing manually, long story short I never had this problem again using Shell gasolines.
Or, about 20 years ago, when emissions standards, fuel systems, oxygen sensors, and engine management systems took exponential steps forward, did all engine run cleaner and longer? I don't know either.
I drive a very finicky, vintage European performance car with a fuel system that is extremely sensitive to whatever you put in the tank. You can tell right away what it likes and what it doesn't. I also always use additives, no matter what gasoline I put in. I've tried many different brands of fuel, from the cheap gas from the convenience store around the corner, the ok gas like Fastrip, 7-11, the good gas from brands like foodsco, mobile, etc, to the expensive stuff like Shell, Chevron... I've tried the cheapo gas and I get misfires as soon as it gets into the system, and they don't go away until I run enough of the Shell gas.. While using cheap gas, my mileage also was greatly affected for the worst... Runs ok with the ok gas, performance feels somewhat compromised... It runs well on the good gas and expensive gas, but has a particular taste for, and runs excellently with Shell fuel. I've tried all the fuel grades of Shell, and have noticed that there is an obvious difference between the low grade shell, and the mid grade, but not much of a difference between the mid grade and the V-power.... I've driven for a while using only either only mid grade or V-power and can say that there is not much of a difference in my experience. At least in my case, I don't feel like V-power is worth the money, mid grade is good enough... Now, when it comes to Chevron vs Shell, I can say that I feel like I have better performance while on Shell. It just feels like the engine burns it better, gives better mileage, and sounds and feels better too. That's just my 2¢...
This dude is the truth! Name another UA-camr that will reply to comments on old videos. He doesn't ask us to like or subscribe, but instead asks for ideas that he will dive into deeper than anyone else would dare to try.
I can remember when you just started your channel. My has it come a long way and I have gained valuable information as well. Settled a lot of arguments between friends as well. I have to say your channel is kick AZZ !!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for all the great videos, much appreciated.
That small amount of carbon buildup will not effect compression to any great extent. The best way to test carbon build-up in a cylinder head is to do Burret type test measuring the volume of CC's in the combustion chamber, before and after testing using liquid. Generally that process is done for modifying combustion chambers during a high performance build involving balancing chamber to chamber, cutting in larger seats, bigger valves, de-shrouding the combustion chamber etc... The better your engine formula cleans the aftermath of combustion ,the more often you will have to change the oil as well.
@@darewade5876 It wasn't too long, you just have a short attention span. The time it took for you to type that b.s reply, you could've actually read the guys comment. 🙄
Nitro is making differens only on real ecu controlled engines. I wont make any difference on fixed ignition timing engines. And to get the maximum effect from the fuel you need higher compression engine. We use the nitro in our track car in finland and it is the chepest possible high octane gas in here. Lawnmovers are happy with allmost any fuel that match the regular gas stociometric value.
Re: Comments and questions about Ethanol and Octane Ratings. 1- If your engine requires a higher octane than 87 it's not a good idea to run 87 octane. 2- If it doesn't require a higher octane than 87, you're wasting money buying a higher octane. 3- Ethanol has and octane rating of 108.6, so adding ethanol to gas helps the octane rating. Now a word about what octane is, and the difference between the fuel octane and octane rating. Yes octane is the name for the petro-chemical with a hydrocarbon chain of 8 carbon atoms strung together that also has 16 hydrogen atoms (2 for each carbon atom) as "wings" to the carbon atoms along the chain. Oct = 8, hence octane. Back during WWII it was the basis for what was called "aviation gas". If you can get some pure octane, it will have an octane rating of 100, as in 100% octane. Heptene is a hydrocarbon chain of 7 Carbon atoms with 14 hydrogen atoms as "wings" so-to-speak. It's "octane rating is 60, as if it acts like it is 60% octane, but it's not. Before ethanol, the petroleum industry used Tetra-Ethyl-Lead to boost the octane rating of heptene to usable levels for gasoline engines. When it was banned (the EPA phased in "unleaded gas) we all got healthier from not breathing lead, but engines got sick because the valve seats weren't hardened, which wasn't a problem with TEL because the little lead balls cushioned the valves when they closed, so the newer engines had to have hardened valve seats. Also the petroleum industry had to start blending more octane in with the heptene in order to get the octane rating high enough to use. When the industry began to lobby congress to provide subsidies to blend ethanol into gasoline for the increase in octane rating it provides, it was at first considered to be a bad thing for the gas because it decreases the energy available. Less gas mileage from "gasahol" is a fact. But there turned out to be a great benefit from it, and there's a clue in this video as to why. Ethanol and heptene or octane are like oil and water, they don't naturally mix. So in order to get the ethanol to mix with the gas, an additive is used to get the two to mix: how much determines what percentage of ethanol you can have in the gas, up to certain limit which seems to be 10%. But here's the benefit and it has saved the petroleum industry many times what it spends on the mixing additive. Years ago there was a problem with water condensing in fuel tanks and contaminating the gas. There were inspectors who had long sticks they would smear an indicator on the end of, about an inch higher than the tanks pickup near the bottom, and dip the stick into the tank to see how many inches of water was in the bottom of the tank. Sooner or later the tank would have too much water and would have to be drained. Now, with ethanol in the gas, small amounts of water are absorbed in the gas and gasoline tanks that dispense large quantities of gasoline almost never have to be drained. They are always absorbing the condensate before it gets too high. Now your gas tank may sit long enough for the water/ethanol mixture to separate if there's more than the mixing additive can handle. He showed in the video how that happens. He added way too much water to mix with the ethanol, it precipitated the ethanol/water mixture out of the gas by overwhelming the mixing additive, and he then can calculate the percentage of ethanol. So what's the lesson? *Buy your gas at the station that is selling the most gas.* Stop at a mom & pop gas station in the sticks where they're still selling from the load they bought 5 years ago and you may be buying a quart of water. If that's the case your car may shut down after a mile or two, not from water getting to your engine, the fuel filter won't pass water after its been saturated with gas. It'll stop from the fuel filter filling up with water so it can't pass anything. But you may get a teaspoon and not notice it, the fuel filter will be able to pass the gas. But that much water will stay in you filter, and enough of it will cause driveability issues. Conclusion: Ethanol has been a blessing in disguise to industry and the well informed. If you're having driveability issues: stumbling, bad idle, low power, *change the fuel filter first!* Especially if you've been buying your gas at Charlie's "Eat here and get Gas" in the middle of the Louisiana swamps. lol
@@jimmy5F A common misconception of newbie mechanics and students with little experience. I'm a retired ASE Master Technician and was trained at the Atlanta General Motors Training Center. Jimmy I have changed hundreds of fuel filters that were full of water and have never seen one drop of water in the line AFTER the filter, nor have I seen any water coming out of the injector side of the filter. Water is always coming out of the pump side of the filter. As I said, once the element has been saturated with gas, it won't pass water. This is what's happening and why you think the element is saturated with water and won't pass gasoline. As the filter fills up with water, the water, bring heavier than the gas, dams up across the element until there's not enough area where the gasoline can get through to supply the injectors with enough pressure to run the engine. If you had been to the class where the instructor gave us a little chemistry as to why the lighter fluid can dam up the paper and stop the water you might understand. As it is Jimmy, ask yourself this simple question: if it is as you say, when did this water saturation begin and for how long has the engine been running on a water/gasoline mixture? And you may not understand this one but I do: What kept the injectors from seizing up when the water started going through them? I think you're what we call a shadetree mechanic Jimmy. You put an alternator on your mommy's car (and then changed the bad battery) and now you're an expert mechanic on UA-cam.
This was a great demonstration. I would have added one more test sequence: store both gasoline samples for 6 months to 1 year under the same conditions, and then run the same tests. I always recommended top-name-brand gasoline to my customers as opposed to the "cheap" stuff, primarily because of the higher-quality additives vs. possibly the lack thereof in the cheap stuff. I've had Shell premium that was 5 years old that was still good, vs. 6 month old "cheap" gas that smelled like varnish in some of my customer's equipment.
My V6 Toyota Hilander has a crispier response with premium gasoline than with regular. Having a car is luxury anyway. I like the faster response I get in my car from the premium gas. With lower grade my car feels tired and slower to respond.
Thanks for all the effort in the test. Keep in mind Vpower is a high octane fuel and both of those engines are low compression, somewhat incompatible. I had an old motorcycle that sat for about 5 years and the fuel gauge sending unit stopped working, I started using the bike again for a few years and just didn't have a functional fuel gauge. When I moved I had a shell station nearby and started using Vpower exclusively, halfway through the first season the fuel gauge magically started working again, not conclusive I know but it's been 10 years and it's still working.
As long as you don't put to much MMO in the gas, it will increase octane and engine torque. To much and it starts to become more like a diesel fuel and will foul your spark plugs and clog your catalytic converter faster. I put some in the gas when I'm going to be hauling a heavy trailer with my gasoline truck; MMO gives it more torque for pulling up grades/hills.
@@clintwiz, well Clinton I usually use about 1 and 1/2 oz per gallon. I also, put a bottle of Gum Out Octane Boost in with it, because I use the lowest octane level of gasoline. The lowest octane gas at the pump has the lowest amount of alcohol content. Alcohol is filler and has very hardly no energy producing ability. So, if you can't get alcohol free gasoline then try my system it works great. Here is some online maps that show where there are fuel stations that have alcohol free gasoline. "Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada" www.pure-gas.org/ ...... www.google.com/search?q=alcohol+free+gasoline&oq=alcohol+free+gasoline&aqs=chrome..69i57.429066j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Alcohol free gas gives more power and does eat the hell out of you fuel system like that *&%&*^ ripoff alcohol gas does.
I've done 130,000 miles in my tuned Saab 9-3 Aero 2.0T. the car has done 160,000 miles. I recently took off the inlet mani to change the PCV valve for the first time ever (remiss of me I know). The car has always run on Tesco Momentum 99, a 99Ron super unleaded at 5% ethanol. You could have eaten your dinner off the back of the inlet valves and valve bowls - it was spotless, I wish I could show you. Also the car produces 16hp and 26Nm more power & torque on Momentum than A N Other supermarket gas. That's about 6.5% more torque, which is noticeable and it pulls better from a lower rpm (especially in 6th on the motorway). THAT's why I buy it.
Thank you for making videos man, they have helped me a lot over the years. You give honest and well tested reviews, which is something that almost no one does.
Great tests we had around 2.8 million miles logged on all of our fleet of F150’s and the cheap fleet fuel we would purchase never had any fuel related issues. Each truck averaged 300k miles before we sold them. They transported 18 wheeler parts (starters, injectors, etc.) for our roadside mechanics around the Houston region. Mainly highway miles. To note separately we extended oil change intervals from the 5,000 mile factory recommended to 17,000 miles on all trucks. Schaffers oil was used due to their cheap bulk oil prices and were the oils always used to extend those intervals.
Hi, highway miles matter a lot, its best case use for any engine. Cold short runs on city kills any engine life expectancy and as long as the fuel used is within engine specs, being a business it makes perfect sense not to overspend on fuel.
I want to say amazing reporting, but this is the way everyone should do videos like this. You've got a great standard. Untampered empirical evidence. Awesome.
It would be interesting to do a Shell v Shell test. I know when I had a 1.8L BMW, it *hated* 87, tolerated 89, but adored 93 octane, even though it was spec'ed to 91. 91 isn't available where I live, so I figured go over. It actually made a noticeable difference in fuel economy as well- over a year, with the same driving every day, 87 was about 28mpg highway, 89 about 30, 93 was 31-32.
It's that okey for used in 2007 Nissan versa because I just Put 87 Gasoline on it but I try the 89 and it's just same as 87 Gasoline can I put shell v power on that kind of car?
@@Yanbrymenocu Actual recommendation from Nissan is 87, so that's plenty. Higher octane than what the motor is designed for offers really minimal benefits except some extra detergents, but you can get around that with a can of fuel injector cleaner a few times a year.
Same with my 2.0l petrol tsi if I put cheap petrol in it sounds like a old diesal engine but when I fill up with v power it sounds smooth and quite again
My V6 Toyota Hilander has a crispier response with premium gasoline than with regular. Having a car is luxury anyway. I like the faster response I get in my car from the premium gas. With lower grade my car feels tired and slower to respond.
I have a voyager 2003 that has several issues, I'm suspecting about pcv valve and iac valve, and maybe oxygen sensor. A mechanic told me two pistons aren't working properly. One of the main issues I was having was that I couldn't accelerate properly and I was testing some aditives to see if one of the improve the car. To my surprise, the one that made all better, was an octane booster, it was a huge improvement. I did use a better octane fuel in the next charge and is working even better. I'm still having little issues but my vehicle no longer drowning when pushing the pedal after a full stop.
I've got an old 08 Jeep Wrangler with a 3.8. It gets carbon build-up that causes pre-detonation. About every 5k miles, I have to address it to stop the pinging. I used to run two tanks of gas with Techron or Gumout or STP, and it would be good for another 3 to 5k miles. I tried one tank of VPower and it not only did the job, but it would go the full 5k miles every time before the pinging would reappear. I have no doubt the V-Power cleans that particular engine better than the additives. The good news is that in the last couple years, they must have improved regular 87 Shell gas because I've gone a good 12k to 15k with no pinging, so I haven't had to run the VPower or use an additive. I run Shell gas 95% of the time in all of my vehicles. If I can't run Shell, I run another Top Tier gasoline. I NEVER run gasoline that is not Top Tier. Thanks for a fascinating video! Btw, I've found Shell 87 and V-Power in my area to be at about the same 5% ethanol as you found. That's good. The less ethanol, the better.
Despite VW hasn't any E20-E80anymore, my experience from a Mazda in Thailand is, that high Ethanol content in the fuel and port injection is extremely good to prevent carbon deposits in the exhaust. E.g. the exhaust was with 100'000 km so clean, it looked inside live factory new!
Just anecdotal, but I've always seen a noticeable performance difference in my 4-banger econobox with cheap gas vs. "top tier" brands. I don't use cheap generic gas anymore but there seemed to be less power, and increased valve chatter
Judging by your description, it sounds as if your engine has enough carbon build up that it now requires the higher octane gas. I had the same exact problem on my older Taurus, anything less than 93, and I had a ping noise from the Pre-Detonation that was happening
@@cassyl460 Thankfully I no longer own the car where I was noticing that. It was a 2001 Corolla with enough piston ring wear that it drank more oil than gas. I had the crank case open once and it seemed fairly clean, I would absolutely believe that it had more to do with the car though. Still would seem to indicate a difference in quality exists, no? It's not as if I went to another station and bought 93. When I said cheap gas, I meant cheap no-name 87 vs brands like Sunoco, ExxonMobil, etc.
@@aleksandar4756 I'm well aware of that suggestion, it's kind of bullshit or at least a bad idea. The rings are designed to let through a certain amount of oil, when you change the viscosity there are parts of the engine that likely aren't getting lubricated properly anymore. Trading one issue for another. I also live in a fairly cold climate with harsh winters, when you really don't want to be doing that. But yeah, the suggestion was given many times and I followed it occasionally. Didn't seem to make much difference tbh.
Awesome job, you definitely covered the bases you needed to in this video. What might be interesting is if you could find an engine with high enough compression that requires 93 octane and running on both fuels to see the results of the higher octaves knock prevention. One other point that most people don't know about is that the lower octane will make slightly more power due to its ability to burn easier, but you would need a fairly powerful engine to be able to measure a difference, like a 100hp engine may drop down to 99.8 running on a higher octane type of smaller gain/loss. The only place premium shines is in high compression or turbocharged engines, otherwise, if an engine can run 87 octane it will perform better on it than premium, but the people marketing fuel won't tell people that.
@Peter Angles Exactly... Basic rule of thumb is that if your engine doesn't require it, (and unless you're flooring it every time you take off), don't use it.... I understand your point about the residue as well... additives Always leave something behind... When I had my shop I could tell who was using 104+ because it would leave their spark plugs a reddish brown color.... and when it says it raises octane by 4 points... well now your 87 octane is 87.4... and so on... If you really need a high octane fuel there's always E85, but non flex fueled cars really can't take advantage of this without some serious reprogramming and tuning. We used to mix toluene with regular or premium to get the octane level we needed for supercharged or turbocharged engines and there's lots of articles on the net saying how to mix it for a specific octane level... A little pricy but far cheaper than racing fuel.
Thats not entirely true. My 2017 hyundai sonata 2.4L GDI I just found out had an engine ping (thought it was a loose heat shield rattlin' around underneath) that I would hear when accelerating up a hill or with a lot of throttle. Turns out to be a very common thing with my make/model car. The owner's manual says to use "Top Tier gasoline with an octane rating of 87 OR HIGHER" and what do you know, when I switched to 93 the engine ping went away and the car runs better.
Hey Todd! Love the video! Have you ever considered doing a gasoline showdown using the same grade of gasoline but using different brands like 93 shell vs 93 Costco vs 93 Mobil etc? Thanks for the consideration and great work you do!
I had something similar; my 84 Caprice (of which the tube from the catalytic converter back to the 305 engine was broken) pinged a bit with Sheetz, Getgo and Country Fair (Citgo) Fuel even if I was using E0 fuel. I never saw it with B.P. gas.
funny you shoudl say that....i had a 04 srt4 that did NOT like shell v power gas it would have a hessitation....and my friends turbo jetta adeveloped a ticking knoise when he used shell v power...we both have since switched over to "normal" 91 octaine fuels and both issues are gone
Both of the most recent vehicles I've bought were diesel cars that probably ran on normal diesel throughout their life. First thing I did with both of them was to put in premium diesel (the stuff we have here is called Circle K "Miles Plus") and some fuel additives. That helped both cars get a much smoother running, quieter engine. In regards to premium fuels and additives, I've simply just started using the expensive fuel in place of the fuel additives. The cost comes out at about the same, but the major benefit is that I don't have to keep on top of the additives and potentially forget to use them.
I usually use mid-grade fuel (89 octane) instead of the cheapest (87 octane)... I wonder if that is worth it? Shell V-Power is above the top grade at like 95 octane!
Bro, this is absolutely the best channel on UA-cam! Thank you for all the time, energy, effort, and money you put in to creating such a valuable and educational videos
Really enjoyed this video, i would also really like to see a test vs Costco gas. It is usually much less expensive than anywhere else but also has a bunch of detergents. I will still continue to use Costco's gas even if it is very similar to other gas because of the cost savings, but i think it would make for an interesting video.
I second this video idea! I’d also be VERY curious to see Kroger’s fuel thrown into the comparison. That’s what I typically use in my vehicles. Gotta love them fuel points! Haha
There’s online forums that have actually sent in different fuel samples to be tested, and CostCo came out way ahead of all the top tiers such as Shell, Chevron, Mobile etc. CostCo has all day everyday!!!
In 1990 I bought a new Honda Accord. I used it in my Engineering business all over Georgia. I only pumped premium AMOCO white gas. It got better mileage and had a little more power with it. Just under 200k miles, my mechanic said it would most likely need the fuel injectors cleaned. I told him to check, but doubted it would be necessary. Those injectors were like new! The AMOCO white gas is more highly filtered, so there are fewer carbon deposits. I don’t care what anyone else says. It works for me and I don’t mind spending more for better gas.
I used to work in a refinery and there are many octane blends, additive and detergent packages depending on the brand of gasoline. These are usually very secret recipes and shipped as a proprietary mixture to be added to the EPA standard fuel blend and usually before shipment. Name brand gasoline use detergent cleaning efficiency as a marketing point. Not many if any have a claim for higher fuel efficiency regardless of price. Higher priced gasolines (premium) do have a higher octane content because these components are expensive to manufacture, hence the higher cost.
Same, I worked for Uncle Rex for a long time. Watching Shell, PetroCan, Wilsons, Irving, and whoever else roll up and buy our gas, only to turn around and sell it at their station with marketing gimmicks like V-Power or CleanDrive was moderately funny. We had tanks on site with the brands secret sauce which was blended in to their tankers when they came to load up, but I never really bought in to it. Anything that comes out of any respectable refinery is API spec made so who cares.
I've been curious about Walnut Shell Carbon Cleaning. It seems to be gaining popularity, but seems to me the walnut shell pieces would get lodged into the compression ring, and cause it to get stuck. Would love to see the results of this on a carboned up engine, and see the piston and rings after the process
What I really take away from this clip is a new ability to start my reluctant gas generator. Don't pull an pull and pull and ... Just slap a battery drill on the pull start nut!
The fuel efficiency outcome could be different in a car since the system makes changes as you drive. Some people have tested and claimed that they got better MPG with premium, I've only tested that once and saw no change.
Exhibit " A " of cheap gas, and good gas! Your engine tells you by signaling it's knocking, hills are hard to climb, and you get a cleaner fuel, cleaner engine, and better emissions. If your using two donkeys to pull your wagon your not going to feed them moldy hay!
@@ProjectFarm i tried v power for our second car Maruti swift (these cars tend to give higher mileage even for cheap gas i felt that v power shell gave us even more mileage than the cheap petrol
This. If you don't have an engine that requires it, you're wasting your money. If you've got a high compression engine, you do notice the power difference since the engine isn't retarding the timing to prevent knock...
Shell V-Power works best on Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz engines that specifically require 91 pump octane (95 RON) gasoline due to the combustion chamber and piston head design to allow for higher compression ratios. Most other cars have their combustion chamber and piston head designed to work reasonably well with 87 octane gasoline, so going to an expensive gas is not worth it.
Great job! That was absolutely perfect. I was shocked at the results from the soaking bolts. I would of bet "no way would there be a measurable difference". I couldn't of been more wrong. You can clearly see the difference in color along with the pile of gunk in the bottom of the glass jar. It makes me think of how much carbon could be dissolved running a full tank thru my vehicle. Obviously getting a different octane rating than what the engine was designed for won't give any benefit, but opting for a high quality name brand (Shell, Mobil, Sunoco, etc) vs. "Fuel Plus" or "GasMan" (those are just some budget generic brands in my area, if you never heard of them lol) could make a big difference in build up even over the course of a few tanks of gas. I think I'll stick to 87 octane from a name brand 100% of the time and try to run a system cleaner once a month just to maintain a clean system from now on. Thank you for all your hard work. I can't imagine how much work is involved in putting something together this in depth. It really is appreciated. BTW I have honestly changed my "normal operating procedure" on what goes into my vehicle based off your testing and this video will refine it once again. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this here, and allowing comments too. I use about 10 gals/week= premium costs me about $10/week more. I may be wasting that $10, but i think my car starts easier & accelerates better with 93 octane. The $10/wk is nothing compared to how much my food and electric costs have climbed in the last year, and every year for the last ten years.
If your vehicle doesnt require premium then you are more than likely wasting the money. The higher octane rating doesnt indicate that it will help create more power. The only reason to run a higher octane fuel is if the engine requires it. The octane rating is the fuels ability to resist preignition because of compression, which is why higher compression engines require premium, because they would knock if 87 was used
Old video - oct 2024 - regular is 2.60 87 oct, 93 oct shell 3.60. I filled with it today. It has to be better, it actually smelled like gas. Much stronger smell. I'll try a few tanks if for nothing else the cleaning. I use Stabil mobile, but i think thats more to preserve the fuel than clean anything.
Channels like these actually deserve to be monetized.
Thank you
@@ProjectFarm Loved your video! But here's the question: I'm from a non-english speaking country. So the subtitles help me a lot to understand what you're saying. But the synchronization is off. When you have spare time, could you solve that? Again, thanks for the videos.
Absolutely, one of the most valuable channels on youtube for the diyers without question!
I thought they all were monitized?
Actually they all deserve to be monetized based on viewership and popularity. What's wrong is the fact that UA-cam picks things they don't like and chooses to no longer monetize them. But we are still watching so......
I like how you say cheap gas. In Europe it's called less extremely expensive gas
lol. Great point! It's all expensive here too.
That's because European governments hate personal mobility.
@@deusexaethera True. Its a shame really, because however good the public transport may be, it just can't replace the freedom of going where the fuck you want when you want to
They usually just hate any car that is kind of fun in general too. That's why most of us drive plastic shitboxes with an engine from a hairdryer.
In the UK up to £6.00 a gallon!
One of the hardest working content creators on UA-cam. Thanks for all your information.
Thank you!
Agreed
Very appropriate this i use lucas fuel cleaner or chevron fuel system cleaner.
Fantastic video. Wow you put lots of work into this. Hats off to you. I find it strange that the deposits are somewhat equivalent inside the chamber. I expected a much cleaner overall with the shell.
Except the science is junk.
I run shell vpowernitro in my 1993 Volvo 940 and it’s got over 300,000 miles still running strong. When I bought the car it was owned by an older lady who did slow city driving with cheap 87, 2 years later if 93 shell and the exhaust pipe looks substantially cleaner 👍 I would recommend top tier 93 octane gasoline to anyone with an older car, it literally removed the po420 after running top tier 93 for a year it’s good gas!
Thanks for sharing.
I believe it. Something I am wondering is. People say as a engine ages it develops carbon deposits that raise compression, now wouldn’t that mean that it would run better on higher octane fuel as it ages.
I have a 2008 impala 145k miles. Changed to shell v. Idles run 100% better. No lights on dash. Drive tran is perfect. Add conditioner to trans, one quart, and helps with shifting.
Awesome! 940 sounds like a nice ride. I had the same on my 2013 xc70. Granny drove it, it knocked now and then and I lost a quart of oil between changes. After about 6 months I no longer have blow by. Running smooth.
Neighbors must be like "man does this guy ever stop cutting grass???" Awesome videos man. Keep em up!
Thanks 👍
So funny, dude.
LMAO!
Check out the video where he tests the two-stroke bike kit and rides around on his property. Definitely don't think he has to worry about neighbors lol.
@@ProjectFarm do your neighbors ever ask what the heck you are doing all of the projects are for?
I love how he goes through the effort to make the tests fair and scientific, Going to buy new spark plugs, Running old fuel out of bowl, Running The space heater, etc. Love non-bias content like yours, big supporter and viewer of this channel!!!
Thank you very much!
He is pretty thorough people like him are a treasure my girlfriend likes the videos as well
I always wondered about that super fuel. Always sceptical, always just saved on the gas and used my favorite additive. Great job! You obviously put a substantial amount of effort into the testing.
To be fair, you would need the right compression ratios and timing to suit each fuel
Agree. Most channels leave me saying some variation of "yeah, but they didn't check, change, test X" So you don't really know.
Not this channel.
Also, great editing that doesn't have me skipping around to get to the content.
I love this guy, he invests a lot of time on questions I am interested in
Thank you very much!
He always keeps things interesting
@@ProjectFarm I know this is repetitive, but I firmly believe that this test is a good one! If you made this video, then I missed it, I apologize.
I comment this same comment in multiple videos for redundancy only, not to be annoying. With your vast amount of viewers, I don't want my reply to get lost.
Canned Fuel for small engines
Vs
Pump fuel 87 and 91/93 whichever you can obtain.
My weed whacker has a warranty void if pump gas is used.
I'm interested in the fallowing results:
-Efficiency
-Power
-Cleanliness
I hope you can do this project! If you make a poll, I hope this ends up in it! Thank you so much for your videos, they've helped me and many others a lot!
I’m here to find out but I’m not interested in performance just to help the diesel ticking noise I’m getting under load and hope I can cure it without having new injectors fitted. Project farm answers pretty much every question I have or have had about all kinds of things. His channel is invaluable to me and he’s kind enough to reply even if I ramble on with my comments lol
Couldn't have said it better myself. This fella is pretty damn awesome 👌🏼
The whole point of v power is that it has a higher octane and thus more resistant to detonation. This generally means when tuning an engine, more power can be achieved without causing damage to the engine. Shell promotes more mileage and cleaning because most people don’t understand the issues of detonation (or care) but they are swayed with getting more miles per gallon.
Thanks for the feedback.
Timing, I like e85 though.
Detonation isn't a problem with modern engines though so there's no benefit. It only matters on older cars which are rarely even seen on the roads these days
@@mrcaboosevg6089 timing delay reduces power so it's still a problem, it also happens after detonation has already taken place because the knock sensor needs to detect it before it can delay timing.
@@mrcaboosevg6089 My summertime fun car does not have Any computers on it .So the higher octane Does make a Big difference in performance . Also E85 is unobtainium up here B.C.
V-Power gasoline is mainly for high compression ratio engines and supercharged engines, which can improve work efficiency. However, most of the gasoline engines of lawn mowers and generators have a compression ratio of 8:1 to 9:1, which does not fully demonstrate the advantages of high octane gasoline.
That's the point. In simple engines like this v-power can actually be less efficient, in high compression or turbo engines there will be benefits and injection system will thank you for using v-power. But personally I will use v-power only in sport car for fast driving, for daily driving car regular fuel is more than enough.
Knock knock. It's just a pre-ignition thing.
@@oluskloc lol, as far as I know I haven't seen many people with turbo charged and supercharged fast sport cars around, I mostly see SUVs and Honda civics
Xiaodong Wang but what if i have a vehicle that requires high octane that is naturally aspirated? Should i still run with shell gasoline?
@@WeRide4Snow just stay with the recommended octane!
Neighbours: "What the hell is that noise?"
"Oh, it's just the neighbour mowing his garage again."
lol
Lmao you cracked me up.
Haha 😂 That’s hilarious 😆
🤣🤣😂👍
I have grass in my garage 🤷🏾♂️, I prefer to snip it though so I don’t mess up the buds.
Here's the truth: I deliver fuel to several places, and the EPA controls the recipe for gasoline. All gas companies get it from the same place, however it's raw gasoline. However it's not all the same. The fuel then has the additives added that separate one brand from another. Shell using nitrogen is the trademark. Going back to the original point, removing all additives, fuel is all the same. Shell trucks line up at the same racks as bp and marathon, so bear all that in mind.
This is great information. Thank you!
What ? For real ?
That's is so true lol is the type of sauce they use it all comes from the same hole at the end of the day but definitely I seen the difference on my 01 Durango that my motor is on it's way out v-power gas brings it back and also prevent the check engine light from coming back much longer and also it's a premium fuel as my truck requires all ather fuels are not as good I was also a big fan of mobile gas but it is second choice third choice is sunoco but v power is top for me
So the additives get added after the truck is loaded up with fuel?
@@robertsrt each rack to load at can be different. Shell uses their own trucks and may be pre loaded, but it's hard to say. Or they have contracts with the fuel supplier and it gets mixed in off of their own tanks. It's very hard to say. Rest assured the additives are added, but it's different at each rack to confirm unless you know someone who hauls fuel for shell. It's great fuel indeed, and I mostly use v power myself in the winter and e85 for summer
I have only used Shell V power+ nitro in my 2016 ram 5.7 hemi. Just hit 120,000 miles. Changed plugs for 1st time and all 16 looked almost brand new still. Have never had a code thrown and not a single issue at all so far.
Thanks for sharing.
"I have to wake up soon tomorrow."
Also me at 1:30am: which gasoline is better?
Same here 😂
Me right now
Literally me right now! Bahaha
Same but its 3:30AM for me lmao
More like 4:00am for me😂😂😂
Difference is that Vpower tastes better
lol
Taste is subjective my friend. I find the cheap gas better for my tongue and my wallet.
Cheap gas tastes pasteurized
Quite true. Race fuel [100 oct] is stronger.
& it’s gluten free 😋
"ok, we're still at 100 psi."
I love how frankly and succinctly he addresses comments.
Thanks!
All grades of Shell gasoline are top tier. Therefore I would like to see you repeat this test using Shell 87 octane instead of Vpower. Thank you for consistently turning out awesome videos!
You are welcome! Thanks for the video idea.
good idea, I'd like to see that one as well
Not all shells, no.
Big gas shill ??
@@yellobello1 inference skill check...
Only higher compression motors take advantage of higher octane. Adding lead to the fuel stabilized it to increase to over a hundred octane. Very informative channel. He’s gets right to it without dragging on and on.
Thank you!
He don’t play around.
I believe turbo/supercharged engines also, though they are typically lower compression.
@@williamwallace9620 ….Aviation fuel does have a higher octane rating but it’s formulated specifically for airplane engines and the environment they operate in. A lot of people use it in their high compression engines for the octane requirements but I’m not sure if it’s worth the extra cost and hassle of dealing with airports.
I also need high octane fuel for my 12.4:1 compression Ford 351 Cleveland drag racing engine but the 93 octane pump fuel available locally isn’t enough. Fortunately the drag strips in my area sell a wide variety of the highest octane leaded race fuels available plus 100 octane unleaded fuel that I run in my supercharged daily driver when I race it. I just stock up enough race fuel to last in between my visits to the drag strip. Obviously the AV fuel works for you but if you have a race track nearby you might want to consider it as a option.
@@ProjectFarm …. I have a good example of serious power gains from using a premium 93 octane pump fuel compared to regular 87 octane fuel.
I have been getting a rental car once a month for the past couple of years and it was a pleasant surprise to find out first hand about modern automotive technology and the small displacement turbocharged/inter-cooled engines available in rental cars.
Some of the rentals I got included a Twin turbo Infinity, Ecoboost 2.3 liter, turbo/inter-cooled four cylinder Mustang (my favorite), Camaro V-6, Challenger V-6, Charger Hemi V-8 and more that perform only as good as the power train control module allows based mainly on inputs from the O2 and knock sensors. The PCM tunes for peak performance when I fill up the rental with 93 octane on the first tank full.
The rental agency requires the tank be refilled when returning so people buy the cheapest 87 octane to top off the tank upon return.
None of the cars I rented would perform anywhere near their turbocharged or high compression engines ability. Not until I got some 93 in the tank and the performance increase was substantial.
For example, the Twin Turbo/inter-cooled V-6 Infinity literally wouldn’t turn a tire when hammered at a standstill and accelerating to 80 seemed almost impossible.
After the PCM quit pulling out boost and ignition timing caused by knock retard and optimized the tune for 93 octane, the results were impressive. The Infinity would boil the tires on launch and zip up to 140 with ease. The results were the same with all of the listed rentals. A full tank of 93 octane gasoline is well worth the cost when having a blast in the rental !
Several comments state the significant difference between US and European octane rating. This is mostly due to the different ratings used. US gasoline is rated in AKI (anti knock index) and European is rated in RON( research octane number). The reality is that they are not that different. 87 regular US is about 91 RON . European regular is 95 RON which is about 91 AKI, basically euro regular is us midgrade. European premium is 98 or 100 RON which is 93-95 AKI. However... running expensive gas in your car makes no sense if it doesn't have a high compression ratio or forced induction.
Thank you for providing the details on the differences in how octane is rated in US vs European countries.
Well, most modern Cars will actualy gain a couple of HP from 95RON to 100RON(i am not mentioning 91 because you can't realy get it anywhere anymore)
Over here in the UK I try to only use Shell. Anything else including the likes of Esso (Exxon) or BP, I notice pinking and a greater chance to stall when pulling away slowly. This happens even though I'm only driving a 2.2 ltr Vauxhall Vectra.
When I had my modified Subaru, "Shell V Power" made a massive difference when the tuner was mapping the car.
Don Pablo Cirkle K here in Norway is markeding their fuels as the «Miles» brand. They also have a premium version of the 95 Octane and Diesel Called «Miles+» .. The plus proves better milage and better lubrication, clean burn and cleaning of the engine. I tested the milage of my fairly regular 91 Toyota Corolla 1,6L 16 valve EFI (4A-FE Petrol engine) .. the milage in my Corolla did actually gain about 80km extra milage. Driven same speed, distance and everything was identical. That impressed me.
I've noticed a difference in sound and acceleration, as well as top speed in my low compression (about 6,5 to 7 bar measured with the hand-starter) Mariner 10hp 2-Stroke Outboard Engine:
With 95 Octane, I get better acceleration (about 2 to 4 seconds quicker to planing - didn't exactly measure it, but it is noticeable: I had a clear disadvantage against another boat with RON 95 fuel when accelerating) but lower top speed and the engine is louder at WOT.
With Ultimate 102 from Aral (didn't test any other fuel - Shell is absolutely no-go on a boat because of the Ethanol-Content) the top speed is 2 to 3 knots higher (Top Speed: about 25 knots) and the engine-sound has less high frequency content (sounds more pleasant), but acceleration is lacking.
Also with Aral 102, the engine runs cleaner and seems to burn more of the oil. But it runs hotter.
As to why, my theory is, that 95 RON Fuel burns faster, creating higher pressures and therefore more torque. At high enough RPMs, however the fuel is spent too fast and starts to cool down while 102 Octane fuel keeps burning longer and therefore keeps the temperature and pressure up. Or the premium-fuel simply has more energy per liter. This is probably the reason why premium fuels tend to cause higher exhaust temperatures in engines that don't have variable spark timing.
There were some problems with Evinrude E-Tec engines a few years ago: The versions without knock-sensors tended to throw EGT-Errors and switch to safe-mode if ethanol-rich (10% or higher from boat gas-stations) or high octane fuel was used. Engines with knock-sensors developed more power and didn't have any problems.
Unless the Ethanol had bonded with water, then the fuel tended to destroy injectors. :)
You are probably the best neighbour. "Hey you know my engine isn't running so well, what fuel do you put in yours." "Friend how much time you got."
More like... "I have a video for you to watch!" XD
"we're gonna test that"
Honestly my friend bought a car it had a missfire I bought him some shell gas and in 2 blocks his car wasn't shuttering and missing
Two thoughts: 1. When measuring things like fuel, it is much more accurate to use weight than volume. 2. The cleaning effectiveness should be measured over a much longer time frame. It is possible that an expensive fuel would continue to clean, keeping deposits down, while a cheap fuel would continue to build more deposits.
Thanks for sharing!
Surly liquids can weigh different amounts for the same volume
@@LOTPOR0402 the weight Indicates the energy in the fuel. Heavier fuel would contain more energy.
possible, but as a person who has physically looked and cleaned his GDI Intake Valves, seems top-tier or poop gasoline still doesn't prevent carbon... Additionally, there is almost no definitive literature on what top-tier is...
You buy gas in volume not weight.
If your vehicle is rated for regular gas then use regular. If your vehicle is rated for premium then use V-Power!!
Great advice!
My Infiniti G37 requires premium. I filled up with Chevron premium and it ran like shit, went to vpower. Couldn't find a shell close by and put Chevron in again, same result. I believe my car is racist.
@@Forseenlife Umm...you didn't say whether it ran better on Shell or not.
Even if my vehicle doesn't require premium, if it's turbo or super charged I always use premium to prevent knock/pre detonation!
@Toob247 Toob247 yep tons of em. For example my 2012 Chevy Cruze
This guy is the best reviewer I've ever seen.. very thorough and easy to hear and understand. Well Done !!!
Appreciate that!
This Guy!
@@jayeye4798 ?
@@TJ-lw7cj we all call this dude, This Guy. He needs a t shirt...Project Farm hosted by This Guy.
@@jayeye4798 I did some research and found out his first name is "Todd" but that was it. He's married with a son and daughter.
Your neighbors probably think you just really like mowing your lawn with all these videos.
lol. You are right! Thank you
Ama Lau I start a lawn mower anytime my neighbor starts talking loud.
Lawn Mower Enthusiast Club
@@ProjectFarm Mow power! Mow power!
@modular97 kek
This is the best comparison/test channel on UA-cam, bar none. Especially if you value honest, non-biased, no b.s, straight to the point, no beating around the bush good information. Every minute of all your videos are informative, and do not waste anyone's time. In a society that has such short attention spans, this format works perfect, and we appreciate all the work you put into making it that way!🤙
Thanks so much@
You should test these on a fuel injected engine. Something that will advance timing for the higher octane.
Running it on a carbureted engine with static timing will give you the same mpg. The engine isn’t optimized for the better fuel
Thank you
Wooooooooooow man I can't believe that got past me, totally forgot that the results could be different with EFI.
I mentioned fuel/air ratio, controlled by an oxygen sensor. I didn't even think about the fixed ignition timing used on these small air cooled engines.(I wish there was a way to go back and edit my last reply)
Omg thank u. I laughed when it was tested in carby engine. And plus testing it on a generator will do shit all to results bad example.
Some years ago I did some test on my 2010 Subaru Forester. On that car/engine I got significantly better gas mileage on lower octane fuel - so long as I met the minimum required in the specs. Then I looked up the manufacturer's ratings and they said the same thing - better gas mileage on lower octane fuel. A higher compression engine would, of course, benefit from the higher octane fuel; but not my Forester.
When the machines rise up that poor lawnmower is gonna kick everyones ass
We've put it through so much for our entertainment; we deserve it.
LMAO
I giggled
I would not want to be his neighbor! Rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
High comp engines need high octane fuel. High octane burns slower/cooler allowing for more compression and advanced timing without pre-detonation. Better cleaning is just a side benefit.
Great point. Thank you
Are you sure? More heat equals more power. High octane fuels absorb more heat allowing a greater compression and that prevents knocking!
Sterlingjob thats not true. High octance gasoline enables you in much more pre-ignition because of its high knocking resistance. Low octance gas preignites on its own given higher compression. Thats why if your engine figures it has knocking going on, the ignition is retarded
He's only half way right. There's things in the cheap gas to keep the engine cool. High compression requires more to move them pistons. Therefore needing that gas. That has absolutely nothing to do with cooling the types of pistons. High compression pistons are used so u can make the power and not break shit. Friction is what's causing the heat. And with all that taken away to help cool it and make them move faster it will create more heat obviously. When u buy a care they now put the recommended gas on some place of the car. Older carbed cars require non ethanol because that is what they had back in the day and they were not made for type of gas we have today. It tears up the gaskets and prints amongst many things. But newer cars are made to run on this shit gas and therefore u should run the required gas and not be an idiot and be a follower lol. People always think its ok to put premium in the car when all your gonna do is destroy shit. They started carrying the non ethanol gas bc a lot of power sport vehicles require it. Atvs, sleds, all the antique cars. The antiques can't run on this shit. There is a huge difference when u put shit gas in an antique. Where I live its very hard to get non ethanol. I have to drive 20 miles to get my gas and not everyday do iyou wanna do that in a power hungry muscle car.
Jeremiah Arnold they put ethonal in gas because it lowers emissions and is cheaper because it's made in America so it lowers the price a little flex fuel cars can better adapt to the mixture from the factory
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your videos! You were speaking to my heart when you said, “You want your engine to be in tip top shape and last a long time.” All gearheads can definitely relate to this statement and also folks who just want their engines to last long and be reliable. From what I was taught in auto mechanic school, higher octane fuel resists combustion compared to lower octane fuels. High compression performance engines and/or forced induction engines can benefit from this in order to avoid knock or premature detonation due to high pressure, which leads to high heat. No reason at all to use high octane (premium) gas in an engine that calls for 87 octane. The inner mechanic in me does recommend using higher octane fuels in engines that calls for it in order to respect the design of the engine and all those engineers who worked tirelessly. My teacher who was an elderly man and in the business for ages recommended Techron and I trust his words.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I'm a die hard gear head and I use the cheapest gas I can find that meets the octane requirements for the vehicle/usage.
High octane doesn't resist combustion, it resists detonation.
I had one motor in a fleet vehicle, a Ford Taurus with a V6, that recommended 87 but ran better on high octane gas. I tested it many times going from San Jose to Reno, the MPG was consistently 2 MPG better, and the engine torque at low RPM and partial throttle felt better. I figure the sensors in the engine must have noticed the difference and advanced the timing with higher octane, despite the owner manual not mentioning.
I tried the same thing in my Camry hybrid now, and it made no difference.
@aluisious detonation is early combustion when it’s not supposed to happen usually before top dead center in the power strip of a four cycle engine. It’s the same thing. You want combustion, but at a specific point in the timing of the engine. If combustion happens bc of excess compression with a supercharger/turbocharger or in built high compression engines you have detonation or maybe due to build up of crud which increases compression
“We’re gonna be testing that!!” Is one of my favorite lines after starting to watch this channel.
Thanks!
This dude goes through every comment. RESPECT
Thank you!
Projectfarm: "If you're like me, you want your engine to be in tip-top condition"
Also projectfarm: Spends entire channel replacing oil with honey, petrol with wd40, cylinder head with Jb weld.
Thanks for watching!
Honey was my idea. Thanks for making that video!
@@matthewlee2686 Thanks for asking for .. watching it next.
Well, what if honey WAS better? No way to find out...
I’d love to see a test on how shell gas effects an engine long term vs cheap gas. I’ve been using shell only for over a year now and could tell a massive difference over running a mid tier brand. Acceleration is quicker and a lot smoother, and the engine feels like it’s healthy. Would definitely like to see an in depth test. Keep up the amazing work man!
Thanks, will do! Thanks for the suggestion.
Pure marketing, just use top tier gasoline and you will be fine
Placebo is a powerful tool
Depends on the engine. Some engines run better with higher octane and require it for maximum performance. Some engines don’t give a fuck. It’s down to what your particular engine needs.
@@giantsfan714 I’m mainly referring to the fuel mixture and additives, not the octane levels. Shell has more additives than other gas brands out there. Especially cheap mid tier gas
These are the kind of open Whistle-Blower consumer comparisons we definitely find insightful and very helpful, thanks for all you do and keep up the great content.
Yeah, like Consumer Reports used to be, but without the fluff and BMW and Honda reviews
Test ethanol vs non-ethanol gas for efficiency
I'll do it' Great video idea!
try E100 Or E85 vs. ethanol free fuel. Please
Use Canadian V power it has no ethanol
Shell 91 octane V-Power Nitro is 0% ethanol, Atleast here it is (Canada).
Ethanol burns way faster than gasoline mix
This guy must have a huge mound of gently used spark plugs and head gaskets in the back 40...
There is no such thing as a gently-used head gasket. It's either used or it's new. !
Also, why would he bother keeping a giant mound of used head gaskets? I am sure they are thrown away promptly after removal from the engine. I'll be at he might keep one or two for a just in case scenario.
@@timothylessing4774 ...
@@timothylessing4774 Holy moly, we found a live one here...
This guy!
The guy gets deep into the science of it ... eliminating variables for accurate tests. Thanks.
You are welcome!
2:13 that is actually at 2.8 not 2.4, that marks are by .2 not .1
You are right! Thank you
@@ProjectFarm so that is 10% since it went up 1 mL ?
I was just about to say that.
I was wondering why 10% ethanol only came to 5%. Now it makes sense.
Yea so that’s more like 8% ethanal
Thanks for another great video. I started using Shell V-Power in a '07 Mercedes E320 with the M104 engine. At 225k miles, I did not expect much of an improvement, but there is. I had been using a quality Premium Gas, but I experienced a slight, but noticeable improvement in performance. I don't think is a function of the cleaners as the injectors, pump, filter and fuel lines were replaced a month before. If it keeps the engine running smooth until a typical rebuild at 400k, the .50 a gallon surcharge is a good ROI.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
@Peter Angles No, V Power definitely has an edge over bog standard fuel. Any car it is put in is noticeably sprightlier. Its straight up worth the cost if you drive any car that's not a cheap pos.
You can add a gasoline additives regularly and save money. Liquid Molly
@@fduran6993 liquid moly to the fuel? :o
How much extra has it cost you over its life so far to run it on V-power?
Good video... HOWEVER:
Going from one fuel to another in a mower engine is useless, because it cannot advance the timing to the brink of detonation, in order to extract maximum power & efficiency.
Modern automotive engines continually monitor the airflow into the engine, the oxygen content of the exhaust, and the KNOCK SENSOR to determine if the engine is running at max efficiency. The ECU checks these things (along with a host of other sensors) hundreds of times each second, and along with the throttle opening position, allows the computer to make sure the engine is running optimally. No matter what car/engine/recommended octane, a modern engine will ALWAYS produce more power and efficiency with a higher octane fuel, simply because the ECU can advance the timing further using high-octane fuel, which produces more power (up to a point, of course). The key here is the knock sensor: that's what allows the ECU to know when it's gone too far advancing the timing, and when to pull it back a bit.
Simple mower engines (and older carbureted engines without knock sensor technology) cannot make these adjustments, so running on lower octane vs. higher octane doesn't do any good.
Now, as for Shell 'V-Power Nitro+" (advertising EXTRA NITROGEN for MOAR POWAR shenanigans): you'll be hard pressed to actually find any, except at certain company stations, because most stations (even the "branded" ones) won't necessarily buy the ACTUAL Shell product, instead going with whoever is selling the cheapest stuff that day. There's only 6 or so distributors of fuel, including Shell, Chevron, and E/M; and they all sell the three different octane levels without any of the "proprietary" additives (which they add to the basic fuels when asked, for that premium price)--so why actually PAY for the premium stuff when they can sell the normal fuels under the "V-POWAR" label??? Answer: THEY DON'T, they just sell normal fuels as graded and regulated by the government, except for the VERY few company stores that carry the fuels, to help prevent charges of false advertising (which isn't even being enforced anymore).
We won't get into watering-down practices; or the various companies' advertising claims that their special brews "add more power; more efficiency; cleaner running; 50hp more with the sticker/; longer, harder...(er, um, wrong commercial): it's all a massive load of horse manure--in fact, horse manure does more than most of their silly additives.
Bottom line: don't buy into the hype, just get the fuel you need for the best price you can find, from the MOST FREQUENTLY VISITED stations, because the faster they go thru the fuel, the less water accumulation will occur, which makes the BIGGEST difference in fuel quality. Keep your engines tuned properly, with good oil, and you'll be good to go for a very long time.
(let the flames begin....)
Thank you
This guy knows...!
Exactly what he said in the video, if designed for 87 octane no need to use fuel with higher octane.
Tex Arcana a
In a nutshell, the busier the station, the more the fuel is removed and replaced. It gets the freshest fuel most of the time!
I started using shell V Power after I noticed that’s where all the Porsches and Exotics pump. Tried it for my old BMW and the engine sings w this fuel. Feels much more powerful. It felt sluggish w the grocery brand gas. My car requires 91.
Thanks for sharing.
Your videos remind of motor trend, old house and norms workshop. I love the editing and your take on the experiments. Thank you!
Thank you!
I've got one for you, Shell super diesel with cetane compared to regular diesel.
Shell claims the V Power Nitro will remove 70% of engine deposits if used continuously for 2,500 miles. Source: ChrisFix video released 10-16-19.
As always great video! Thanks for making them.
Thank you!
Thanks why I’m here
So does it work?
Its mostly a bs claim because the claim does not apply to gasoline direct injection engines, which is the majority of new cars. It applies to port injection etc
6 full tanks of that premium full on a bmw N52N and the engine threw a knock error in cylinder 4 and 6.
This means that the carbon buildup on cylinder is being cleaned slowly.
I have never really cared about cars, tools, or 90% of the things you generally BUT I love your videos. Your back catalog has been an absolute pleasure to watch.
Thanks so much!
Dont let the comment haters get you down @project farm people love your videos(me included) keep doing what your doing.. Stay unsponsered if desired and enjoy what you do
Thank you very much!
I have tested myself, both on my petrol and diesel cars. Full tank of premium i do notice a fair increase of the mileage and slight performance.
Thank you for the feedback
Hey, my man. I hope you're not testing premium gasoline in a diesel vehicle. That's a sacrilege. Rudolf Diesel would come right up out of his grave and replace that premium gasoline with peanut oil
@@timothylessing4774 i like to think that im not that dumb or usually distracted to do that! 🤣🤣🤣
Is it that you think you notice or it’s definite? I’d like to see it dyno tested.
@@tasmanmcmillan1777 i do an average of 1000+ miles per month for work. Loads of highway/motorway. 90% of that using cruise control. And in all my vehicles i noticed definitive increase on range per full thank. Performance less noticeable but definitely something there.
Hey man you keep doing these videos and these companies are gonna hire a hitman lol
Gio Flores lmfao that’s funny made my night thanks
Lmfao. That hitman would take the money & then turn around & go after the gas company
Gio Flores i was about to say the same thing!
...Hire a hitman? Why not a science teacher?
monkey Bot are you dumb? They would hire a hit man because he’s basically burning out these companies they’re not completely what they claim.
After being a subscriber for several years, it’s great to see an older video to see how the thoroughness and quality has been maintained throughout the years (or improved) while still maintaining the channel’s original roots. Excellent job Todd!
Thanks!
more like, extremely poor job, if we consider the technicals
It was expected that both fuels would give the same run time as a carburetor is a fixed orifice.
You would have to run it on a fuel injected engine that can adjust afr and timing to optimize for the fuel difference.
Timing is fixed, ecu cant control it
Roni92pl ignition advance etc is adjustable.
Roni92pl timing can definitely be adjusted. Ever heard of VVT? IVT? VVEl? Almost every manufacturer out there has variable valve timing, timing advance. They have variable compression engines in base model cars now days.
@@imallupsidedown firing timing sure, you can adjust it freely, but when valves close and open is mechanically.connected.to crank therefore non adjustable, especially.via.ecu.
I dont consider systems like vanos,.vtec etc adjustable, its just mechanically changed depending on rpms... Unless you consider physically replacing camshaft adjusting... But its not, its just changing / modifying engine parts, cheers.
@@Angry-Lynx the crank is made to allow variable opening and closing too, pointless to ignite at will if the gases don't get released accordingly
Still one of the best channels on YT.
Thank you
Wrong. It IS the best :p
ummmm ive seen much better yt channels
And what you do with EE?, engineering explained?
@@erictalaria6153 The crap you like doesn't count, Half of the crap you like been banned throughout 95% of the world.
Considering the short time the engines ran with the types of gas, from an engineer's standpoint, it is quite an impressive outcome in favor of the expensive gas. Imagine the difference if you used it your 200.000 miles/5000 hour-car engine.
Thanks for the feedback.
i would say the cheap gas did great compare to the shell gas other than cleaning the bolt
Yup it's definitely about long term vs short term, not only that but the cheap gas he used is it unnamed or we talking Shell 87 or corner store gas station 87 it makes a difference, and this only seems to be a Gunk test, there's corrosion,wear friction, Piston rings etc etc
That was my thoughts too.
I would worry about clogging up the small openings with gunk the detergents break loose. Like flushing a transmission, it could backfire on you. You think you're doing something good for your transmission and then it stops shifting because all the stuff in the fluid helped it to shift. You take that away and you get a lot of slipping on that old transmission. Removing too many deposits too quickly from your engine could clog it up and wreak havoc! If you started when it was new, it would be fine. But if not, I think it's a big risk. Unless it's to the point of needing to be rebuilt, I wouldn't take the risk.
This is my favorite gas to run in my 19 GLI. It recommends premium (91 technically), but my area has only 93. This stuff does work. I always get better mpg with it. And there is a truck stop near me that is always so busy and has shell gas. That’s where I get it. Since this stuff is top tier certified, and the truck stop has a high turnover rate, the car is very happy.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the video, this is my experience. Like many of you in 50 years I have owned a number of cars, I used to use generic gas, 7eleven, Morphy USA, Racetrack, etc gas was cheap back in early 2000's around $0.70/Gallon so full fill a tank was not a problem but we always have the habit of save some money and this is my experience, I switched to Shell 20 years back and I noticed the Shell gas give me better millage also never had any injection problem in my cars or motorcycles, with generic gas gauge went down faster sometimes ridiculously fast, back in those days with a non fuel injected car I had auto start problems, the engine was doing some explosions after turned off with the key, the problem was the carbon formation inside the camber was thick and so hot, hot enough for burn the residual gasoline in the combustion chamber, in order fix it I removed the motor head and cleaned the whole thing manually, long story short I never had this problem again using Shell gasolines.
Thank you!
Or, about 20 years ago, when emissions standards, fuel systems, oxygen sensors, and engine management systems took exponential steps forward, did all engine run cleaner and longer? I don't know either.
I drive a very finicky, vintage European performance car with a fuel system that is extremely sensitive to whatever you put in the tank. You can tell right away what it likes and what it doesn't. I also always use additives, no matter what gasoline I put in. I've tried many different brands of fuel, from the cheap gas from the convenience store around the corner, the ok gas like Fastrip, 7-11, the good gas from brands like foodsco, mobile, etc, to the expensive stuff like Shell, Chevron... I've tried the cheapo gas and I get misfires as soon as it gets into the system, and they don't go away until I run enough of the Shell gas.. While using cheap gas, my mileage also was greatly affected for the worst... Runs ok with the ok gas, performance feels somewhat compromised... It runs well on the good gas and expensive gas, but has a particular taste for, and runs excellently with Shell fuel. I've tried all the fuel grades of Shell, and have noticed that there is an obvious difference between the low grade shell, and the mid grade, but not much of a difference between the mid grade and the V-power.... I've driven for a while using only either only mid grade or V-power and can say that there is not much of a difference in my experience. At least in my case, I don't feel like V-power is worth the money, mid grade is good enough... Now, when it comes to Chevron vs Shell, I can say that I feel like I have better performance while on Shell. It just feels like the engine burns it better, gives better mileage, and sounds and feels better too. That's just my 2¢...
Thanks for the feedback.
I like ur 2 cents
@@iKillborn2kilNOE😂
Just a matter of octane.
Your 2c is like my 3c.
I think you mower is probably thankful to have actual gasoline for a change. 😆
lol!
Ha!
Justin Williams - yeah, as opposed to used motor oil, mothballs, hairspray, toenail clippings, spray paint, and God knows what else! 😆
The slow-mo shot up the carby trumpet is one of the best shots ever 👌
Thanks!
Ya really cool to see that drop of fuel coat for a second then get atomized!
This dude is the truth!
Name another UA-camr that will reply to comments on old videos.
He doesn't ask us to like or subscribe, but instead asks for ideas that he will dive into deeper than anyone else would dare to try.
Thanks for watching!
I actualy don't comment any more because he always replies and I feel bad for taking up that time lol
@@jamessoncreek4553, I recently had a similar epiphany. Now I only give test ideas.
I can remember when you just started your channel.
My has it come a long way and I have gained valuable information as well.
Settled a lot of arguments between friends as well.
I have to say your channel is kick AZZ !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the great videos, much appreciated.
Thank you very much!
That small amount of carbon buildup will not effect compression to any great extent. The best way to test carbon build-up in a cylinder head is to do Burret type test measuring the volume of CC's in the combustion chamber, before and after testing using liquid. Generally that process is done for modifying combustion chambers during a high performance build involving balancing chamber to chamber, cutting in larger seats, bigger valves, de-shrouding the combustion chamber etc... The better your engine formula cleans the aftermath of combustion ,the more often you will have to change the oil as well.
Tl;dr?
@@darewade5876 It wasn't too long, you just have a short attention span. The time it took for you to type that b.s reply, you could've actually read the guys comment. 🙄
He was so precise in the fuel filling that the motor ran within four seconds of each test. That’s legit.
Thanks for watching!
Nitro is making differens only on real ecu controlled engines. I wont make any difference on fixed ignition timing engines. And to get the maximum effect from the fuel you need higher compression engine. We use the nitro in our track car in finland and it is the chepest possible high octane gas in here. Lawnmovers are happy with allmost any fuel that match the regular gas stociometric value.
Great point! Thank you
i see a big difference in my turbocharged straight six, which runs a 10.5:1 comp ratio, high octane all the way. it also runs a smart ecu
This!!!! Exactly, you should rename your video to something more accurate.
@@BigDosser69 better efficiency on my 1998 600cc bike, 12:1 compression. Not scientific measurement, though. Should do one some time
Re: Comments and questions about Ethanol and Octane Ratings. 1- If your engine requires a higher octane than 87 it's not a good idea to run 87 octane. 2- If it doesn't require a higher octane than 87, you're wasting money buying a higher octane. 3- Ethanol has and octane rating of 108.6, so adding ethanol to gas helps the octane rating. Now a word about what octane is, and the difference between the fuel octane and octane rating.
Yes octane is the name for the petro-chemical with a hydrocarbon chain of 8 carbon atoms strung together that also has 16 hydrogen atoms (2 for each carbon atom) as "wings" to the carbon atoms along the chain. Oct = 8, hence octane. Back during WWII it was the basis for what was called "aviation gas". If you can get some pure octane, it will have an octane rating of 100, as in 100% octane.
Heptene is a hydrocarbon chain of 7 Carbon atoms with 14 hydrogen atoms as "wings" so-to-speak. It's "octane rating is 60, as if it acts like it is 60% octane, but it's not. Before ethanol, the petroleum industry used Tetra-Ethyl-Lead to boost the octane rating of heptene to usable levels for gasoline engines. When it was banned (the EPA phased in "unleaded gas) we all got healthier from not breathing lead, but engines got sick because the valve seats weren't hardened, which wasn't a problem with TEL because the little lead balls cushioned the valves when they closed, so the newer engines had to have hardened valve seats. Also the petroleum industry had to start blending more octane in with the heptene in order to get the octane rating high enough to use.
When the industry began to lobby congress to provide subsidies to blend ethanol into gasoline for the increase in octane rating it provides, it was at first considered to be a bad thing for the gas because it decreases the energy available. Less gas mileage from "gasahol" is a fact. But there turned out to be a great benefit from it, and there's a clue in this video as to why.
Ethanol and heptene or octane are like oil and water, they don't naturally mix. So in order to get the ethanol to mix with the gas, an additive is used to get the two to mix: how much determines what percentage of ethanol you can have in the gas, up to certain limit which seems to be 10%. But here's the benefit and it has saved the petroleum industry many times what it spends on the mixing additive.
Years ago there was a problem with water condensing in fuel tanks and contaminating the gas. There were inspectors who had long sticks they would smear an indicator on the end of, about an inch higher than the tanks pickup near the bottom, and dip the stick into the tank to see how many inches of water was in the bottom of the tank. Sooner or later the tank would have too much water and would have to be drained. Now, with ethanol in the gas, small amounts of water are absorbed in the gas and gasoline tanks that dispense large quantities of gasoline almost never have to be drained. They are always absorbing the condensate before it gets too high.
Now your gas tank may sit long enough for the water/ethanol mixture to separate if there's more than the mixing additive can handle. He showed in the video how that happens. He added way too much water to mix with the ethanol, it precipitated the ethanol/water mixture out of the gas by overwhelming the mixing additive, and he then can calculate the percentage of ethanol.
So what's the lesson? *Buy your gas at the station that is selling the most gas.* Stop at a mom & pop gas station in the sticks where they're still selling from the load they bought 5 years ago and you may be buying a quart of water. If that's the case your car may shut down after a mile or two, not from water getting to your engine, the fuel filter won't pass water after its been saturated with gas. It'll stop from the fuel filter filling up with water so it can't pass anything. But you may get a teaspoon and not notice it, the fuel filter will be able to pass the gas. But that much water will stay in you filter, and enough of it will cause driveability issues.
Conclusion: Ethanol has been a blessing in disguise to industry and the well informed. If you're having driveability issues: stumbling, bad idle, low power, *change the fuel filter first!* Especially if you've been buying your gas at Charlie's "Eat here and get Gas" in the middle of the Louisiana swamps. lol
Correction The fuel filter won't pass Gas after it is saturated with Water.
@@jimmy5F A common misconception of newbie mechanics and students with little experience.
I'm a retired ASE Master Technician and was trained at the Atlanta General Motors Training Center. Jimmy I have changed hundreds of fuel filters that were full of water and have never seen one drop of water in the line AFTER the filter, nor have I seen any water coming out of the injector side of the filter. Water is always coming out of the pump side of the filter. As I said, once the element has been saturated with gas, it won't pass water. This is what's happening and why you think the element is saturated with water and won't pass gasoline.
As the filter fills up with water, the water, bring heavier than the gas, dams up across the element until there's not enough area where the gasoline can get through to supply the injectors with enough pressure to run the engine. If you had been to the class where the instructor gave us a little chemistry as to why the lighter fluid can dam up the paper and stop the water you might understand.
As it is Jimmy, ask yourself this simple question: if it is as you say, when did this water saturation begin and for how long has the engine been running on a water/gasoline mixture? And you may not understand this one but I do: What kept the injectors from seizing up when the water started going through them?
I think you're what we call a shadetree mechanic Jimmy. You put an alternator on your mommy's car (and then changed the bad battery) and now you're an expert mechanic on UA-cam.
Iadamyre, what was the 130 octane avgas used for some aero engines in WW2 and later?
@@ladamyre1 what about gasoline that has 0% ethanol? Does that gas have more energy in it compared to 5-10% ethanol added?
There's UA-cam, and then there's Project Farm. Quality content as always, PF.
Thanks!
This was a great demonstration. I would have added one more test sequence: store both gasoline samples for 6 months to 1 year under the same conditions, and then run the same tests. I always recommended top-name-brand gasoline to my customers as opposed to the "cheap" stuff, primarily because of the higher-quality additives vs. possibly the lack thereof in the cheap stuff. I've had Shell premium that was 5 years old that was still good, vs. 6 month old "cheap" gas that smelled like varnish in some of my customer's equipment.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
@First name Last name However it's an important quality for equipment that is only occasionally used.
My V6 Toyota Hilander has a crispier response with premium gasoline than with regular. Having a car is luxury anyway. I like the faster response I get in my car from the premium gas. With lower grade my car feels tired and slower to respond.
Thanks for all the effort in the test. Keep in mind Vpower is a high octane fuel and both of those engines are low compression, somewhat incompatible. I had an old motorcycle that sat for about 5 years and the fuel gauge sending unit stopped working, I started using the bike again for a few years and just didn't have a functional fuel gauge. When I moved I had a shell station nearby and started using Vpower exclusively, halfway through the first season the fuel gauge magically started working again, not conclusive I know but it's been 10 years and it's still working.
You are welcome!
More than likely it was due to the premium fuel cleaning the level inside the tank allowing it to free up and measure the fuel correctly
Man, you and your tests are amazing. Keep doing this wonderful job.
Thank you!
Cheap gasoline with Marvel Mystery Oil vs Shell!!
Great video idea!
As long as you don't put to much MMO in the gas, it will increase octane and engine torque. To much and it starts to become more like a diesel fuel and will foul your spark plugs and clog your catalytic converter faster. I put some in the gas when I'm going to be hauling a heavy trailer with my gasoline truck; MMO gives it more torque for pulling up grades/hills.
Jim Watts How much do you put in
@@clintwiz, well Clinton I usually use about 1 and 1/2 oz per gallon. I also, put a bottle of Gum Out Octane Boost in with it, because I use the lowest octane level of gasoline. The lowest octane gas at the pump has the lowest amount of alcohol content. Alcohol is filler and has very hardly no energy producing ability. So, if you can't get alcohol free gasoline then try my system it works great. Here is some online maps that show where there are fuel stations that have alcohol free gasoline. "Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada" www.pure-gas.org/ ...... www.google.com/search?q=alcohol+free+gasoline&oq=alcohol+free+gasoline&aqs=chrome..69i57.429066j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Alcohol free gas gives more power and does eat the hell out of you fuel system like that *&%&*^ ripoff alcohol gas does.
I've done 130,000 miles in my tuned Saab 9-3 Aero 2.0T. the car has done 160,000 miles. I recently took off the inlet mani to change the PCV valve for the first time ever (remiss of me I know). The car has always run on Tesco Momentum 99, a 99Ron super unleaded at 5% ethanol. You could have eaten your dinner off the back of the inlet valves and valve bowls - it was spotless, I wish I could show you.
Also the car produces 16hp and 26Nm more power & torque on Momentum than A N Other supermarket gas. That's about 6.5% more torque, which is noticeable and it pulls better from a lower rpm (especially in 6th on the motorway). THAT's why I buy it.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for making videos man, they have helped me a lot over the years. You give honest and well tested reviews, which is something that almost no one does.
I appreciate that!
Great tests we had around 2.8 million miles logged on all of our fleet of F150’s and the cheap fleet fuel we would purchase never had any fuel related issues. Each truck averaged 300k miles before we sold them. They transported 18 wheeler parts (starters, injectors, etc.) for our roadside mechanics around the Houston region. Mainly highway miles. To note separately we extended oil change intervals from the 5,000 mile factory recommended to 17,000 miles on all trucks. Schaffers oil was used due to their cheap bulk oil prices and were the oils always used to extend those intervals.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I think when you do mostly highway driving at a constant speed, it really puts much less stress on your car. On the driver too !
Hi, highway miles matter a lot, its best case use for any engine. Cold short runs on city kills any engine life expectancy and as long as the fuel used is within engine specs, being a business it makes perfect sense not to overspend on fuel.
Schaeffer's is top quality 👌
I want to say amazing reporting, but this is the way everyone should do videos like this. You've got a great standard. Untampered empirical evidence. Awesome.
Thanks!
The amount of effort you put into the tests is amazing
Thanks!
2:10 that's not between 2.4 and 2.5, that's around 2.8 to 3.0
Rowan Broekman that's exactly what I noticed.
Yup
You're right. Sorry about that.
Project Farm No worries. Still a great video. You do such a good job on them!
He tried to jinx us
It would be interesting to do a Shell v Shell test. I know when I had a 1.8L BMW, it *hated* 87, tolerated 89, but adored 93 octane, even though it was spec'ed to 91. 91 isn't available where I live, so I figured go over. It actually made a noticeable difference in fuel economy as well- over a year, with the same driving every day, 87 was about 28mpg highway, 89 about 30, 93 was 31-32.
Thanks for the video idea.
It's that okey for used in 2007 Nissan versa because I just Put 87 Gasoline on it but I try the 89 and it's just same as 87 Gasoline can I put shell v power on that kind of car?
@@Yanbrymenocu Actual recommendation from Nissan is 87, so that's plenty. Higher octane than what the motor is designed for offers really minimal benefits except some extra detergents, but you can get around that with a can of fuel injector cleaner a few times a year.
Same with my 2.0l petrol tsi if I put cheap petrol in it sounds like a old diesal engine but when I fill up with v power it sounds smooth and quite again
My V6 Toyota Hilander has a crispier response with premium gasoline than with regular. Having a car is luxury anyway. I like the faster response I get in my car from the premium gas. With lower grade my car feels tired and slower to respond.
I have a voyager 2003 that has several issues, I'm suspecting about pcv valve and iac valve, and maybe oxygen sensor. A mechanic told me two pistons aren't working properly. One of the main issues I was having was that I couldn't accelerate properly and I was testing some aditives to see if one of the improve the car. To my surprise, the one that made all better, was an octane booster, it was a huge improvement. I did use a better octane fuel in the next charge and is working even better. I'm still having little issues but my vehicle no longer drowning when pushing the pedal after a full stop.
Thanks for sharing.
I've got an old 08 Jeep Wrangler with a 3.8. It gets carbon build-up that causes pre-detonation. About every 5k miles, I have to address it to stop the pinging. I used to run two tanks of gas with Techron or Gumout or STP, and it would be good for another 3 to 5k miles. I tried one tank of VPower and it not only did the job, but it would go the full 5k miles every time before the pinging would reappear. I have no doubt the V-Power cleans that particular engine better than the additives. The good news is that in the last couple years, they must have improved regular 87 Shell gas because I've gone a good 12k to 15k with no pinging, so I haven't had to run the VPower or use an additive. I run Shell gas 95% of the time in all of my vehicles. If I can't run Shell, I run another Top Tier gasoline. I NEVER run gasoline that is not Top Tier.
Thanks for a fascinating video! Btw, I've found Shell 87 and V-Power in my area to be at about the same 5% ethanol as you found. That's good. The less ethanol, the better.
Great feedback. Thank you!
Despite VW hasn't any E20-E80anymore, my experience from a Mazda in Thailand is, that high Ethanol content in the fuel and port injection is extremely good to prevent carbon deposits in the exhaust. E.g. the exhaust was with 100'000 km so clean, it looked inside live factory new!
I also like ethanol just because it cleans everything and do less wear on the engine compared to petrol
Just anecdotal, but I've always seen a noticeable performance difference in my 4-banger econobox with cheap gas vs. "top tier" brands. I don't use cheap generic gas anymore but there seemed to be less power, and increased valve chatter
Judging by your description, it sounds as if your engine has enough carbon build up that it now requires the higher octane gas. I had the same exact problem on my older Taurus, anything less than 93, and I had a ping noise from the Pre-Detonation that was happening
@@cassyl460 Thankfully I no longer own the car where I was noticing that. It was a 2001 Corolla with enough piston ring wear that it drank more oil than gas. I had the crank case open once and it seemed fairly clean, I would absolutely believe that it had more to do with the car though. Still would seem to indicate a difference in quality exists, no? It's not as if I went to another station and bought 93. When I said cheap gas, I meant cheap no-name 87 vs brands like Sunoco, ExxonMobil, etc.
@@sauercrowder Using one grade thicker oil can help you lose less oil on valve stems seals and piston rings.
@@aleksandar4756 I'm well aware of that suggestion, it's kind of bullshit or at least a bad idea. The rings are designed to let through a certain amount of oil, when you change the viscosity there are parts of the engine that likely aren't getting lubricated properly anymore. Trading one issue for another. I also live in a fairly cold climate with harsh winters, when you really don't want to be doing that. But yeah, the suggestion was given many times and I followed it occasionally. Didn't seem to make much difference tbh.
Agree with you 💯!!!
Awesome job, you definitely covered the bases you needed to in this video. What might be interesting is if you could find an engine with high enough compression that requires 93 octane and running on both fuels to see the results of the higher octaves knock prevention. One other point that most people don't know about is that the lower octane will make slightly more power due to its ability to burn easier, but you would need a fairly powerful engine to be able to measure a difference, like a 100hp engine may drop down to 99.8 running on a higher octane type of smaller gain/loss. The only place premium shines is in high compression or turbocharged engines, otherwise, if an engine can run 87 octane it will perform better on it than premium, but the people marketing fuel won't tell people that.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
@Peter Angles Exactly... Basic rule of thumb is that if your engine doesn't require it, (and unless you're flooring it every time you take off), don't use it.... I understand your point about the residue as well... additives Always leave something behind... When I had my shop I could tell who was using 104+ because it would leave their spark plugs a reddish brown color.... and when it says it raises octane by 4 points... well now your 87 octane is 87.4... and so on... If you really need a high octane fuel there's always E85, but non flex fueled cars really can't take advantage of this without some serious reprogramming and tuning. We used to mix toluene with regular or premium to get the octane level we needed for supercharged or turbocharged engines and there's lots of articles on the net saying how to mix it for a specific octane level... A little pricy but far cheaper than racing fuel.
Thats not entirely true. My 2017 hyundai sonata 2.4L GDI I just found out had an engine ping (thought it was a loose heat shield rattlin' around underneath) that I would hear when accelerating up a hill or with a lot of throttle. Turns out to be a very common thing with my make/model car. The owner's manual says to use "Top Tier gasoline with an octane rating of 87 OR HIGHER" and what do you know, when I switched to 93 the engine ping went away and the car runs better.
@@STATUSTANK how about 91? 91 is much easier to reliably find.
does a mini cooper need 93 shell? or regular bp work fine?
Hey Todd! Love the video! Have you ever considered doing a gasoline showdown using the same grade of gasoline but using different brands like 93 shell vs 93 Costco vs 93 Mobil etc? Thanks for the consideration and great work you do!
Great video idea!! Thank you
I have to see this video!!!
I'm curious about the Costco gas tho.
@@ProjectFarm Try Sunoco!
@@ProjectFarm I would like to see this.
I was just thinking about the same thing! Just like the motor oil playoff style.
Got a 56 Buick with a 322 nail head v-8. Shell gas doesn’t knock like gas from speedway or Kroger. Good test
Thank you!
I had something similar; my 84 Caprice (of which the tube from the catalytic converter back to the 305 engine was broken) pinged a bit with Sheetz, Getgo and Country Fair (Citgo) Fuel even if I was using E0 fuel. I never saw it with B.P. gas.
you better get hardened seats in that thing, pronto.
funny you shoudl say that....i had a 04 srt4 that did NOT like shell v power gas it would have a hessitation....and my friends turbo jetta adeveloped a ticking knoise when he used shell v power...we both have since switched over to "normal" 91 octaine fuels and both issues are gone
Both of the most recent vehicles I've bought were diesel cars that probably ran on normal diesel throughout their life. First thing I did with both of them was to put in premium diesel (the stuff we have here is called Circle K "Miles Plus") and some fuel additives. That helped both cars get a much smoother running, quieter engine.
In regards to premium fuels and additives, I've simply just started using the expensive fuel in place of the fuel additives. The cost comes out at about the same, but the major benefit is that I don't have to keep on top of the additives and potentially forget to use them.
Thanks for sharing.
I usually use mid-grade fuel (89 octane) instead of the cheapest (87 octane)... I wonder if that is worth it? Shell V-Power is above the top grade at like 95 octane!
@@treelife365if an engine can run with 87, there is no reason to use higher octane rated fuel
@@comeberzaturbochargers?
@@blitz1346 if you add turbos then the recommended octane may obviously vary
Bro, this is absolutely the best channel on UA-cam! Thank you for all the time, energy, effort, and money you put in to creating such a valuable and educational videos
Thanks and you are welcome!
How about Shell V Power Nitro vs. Costco Premium gas ?
Dude, I appreciate the amount of work that you put into this, and for a good cause. Great job!
Thank you
You'd really need to test them on an engine with a knock sensor and lambda probe.
What is a lambda probe?
@@gameonyolo1 o2 sensor.
Really enjoyed this video, i would also really like to see a test vs Costco gas. It is usually much less expensive than anywhere else but also has a bunch of detergents. I will still continue to use Costco's gas even if it is very similar to other gas because of the cost savings, but i think it would make for an interesting video.
Great video idea. Thank you
I'd second this for sure!
costco beer vs your regular beer
I second this video idea! I’d also be VERY curious to see Kroger’s fuel thrown into the comparison. That’s what I typically use in my vehicles. Gotta love them fuel points! Haha
There’s online forums that have actually sent in different fuel samples to be tested, and CostCo came out way ahead of all the top tiers such as Shell, Chevron, Mobile etc.
CostCo has all day everyday!!!
In 1990 I bought a new Honda Accord. I used it in my Engineering business all over Georgia. I only pumped premium AMOCO white gas. It got better mileage and had a little more power with it.
Just under 200k miles, my mechanic said it would most likely need the fuel injectors cleaned. I told him to check, but doubted it would be necessary.
Those injectors were like new! The AMOCO white gas is more highly filtered, so there are fewer carbon deposits.
I don’t care what anyone else says. It works for me and I don’t mind spending more for better gas.
Thanks for sharing.
I used to work in a refinery and there are many octane blends, additive and detergent packages depending on the brand of gasoline. These are usually very secret recipes and shipped as a proprietary mixture to be added to the EPA standard fuel blend and usually before shipment. Name brand gasoline use detergent cleaning efficiency as a marketing point. Not many if any have a claim for higher fuel efficiency regardless of price. Higher priced gasolines (premium) do have a higher octane content because these components are expensive to manufacture, hence the higher cost.
Thanks for sharing.
Same, I worked for Uncle Rex for a long time. Watching Shell, PetroCan, Wilsons, Irving, and whoever else roll up and buy our gas, only to turn around and sell it at their station with marketing gimmicks like V-Power or CleanDrive was moderately funny. We had tanks on site with the brands secret sauce which was blended in to their tankers when they came to load up, but I never really bought in to it. Anything that comes out of any respectable refinery is API spec made so who cares.
Absolutely LOVE his unbiased, factual findings!
Thanks so much!
I've been curious about Walnut Shell Carbon Cleaning. It seems to be gaining popularity, but seems to me the walnut shell pieces would get lodged into the compression ring, and cause it to get stuck. Would love to see the results of this on a carboned up engine, and see the piston and rings after the process
What I really take away from this clip is a new ability to start my reluctant gas generator. Don't pull an pull and pull and ... Just slap a battery drill on the pull start nut!
Thanks for the feedback.
Yes this man very honestly
The fuel efficiency outcome could be different in a car since the system makes changes as you drive. Some people have tested and claimed that they got better MPG with premium, I've only tested that once and saw no change.
Thanks for the feedback.
Exhibit " A " of cheap gas, and good gas! Your engine tells you by signaling it's knocking, hills are hard to climb, and you get a cleaner fuel, cleaner engine, and better emissions. If your using two donkeys to pull your wagon your not going to feed them moldy hay!
@@offgridselfteliant I feed my donkey used motor oil to pull my 9k lb. work wagon.
@@ProjectFarm i tried v power for our second car Maruti swift (these cars tend to give higher mileage even for cheap gas i felt that v power shell gave us even more mileage than the cheap petrol
Is it possible that the people who saw an MPG increase had cars that required premium fuel?
High Octane Fuel is supposed to be used in high compression engines. Those engines you use for comparison are running on virginpee
This. If you don't have an engine that requires it, you're wasting your money. If you've got a high compression engine, you do notice the power difference since the engine isn't retarding the timing to prevent knock...
He's not testing the point of combustion, he's testing the ability of the gas to clean. Which it does, and it does it better.
The amount of view is far higher than subs.
That's a sign of a good channel.
Thank you
What if subs and view are same high? What do you call it?
@@uekikosuke3601 good subs
@@uekikosuke3601 a perfectly balanced channel, as all things should be,
Yes we would like to see ethanol E 85 versus non-ethanol fuel comparison and also the effects of adding boric acid to lubricant
I'll do it. Thank you!
Yeah, there is a lot to debunk with E85. Lots of peoples pretends it's an instant engine-killer....
Damien Drouart usually old muscle guys who say that.
Shell V-Power works best on Audi, BMW and Mercedes-Benz engines that specifically require 91 pump octane (95 RON) gasoline due to the combustion chamber and piston head design to allow for higher compression ratios. Most other cars have their combustion chamber and piston head designed to work reasonably well with 87 octane gasoline, so going to an expensive gas is not worth it.
Thanks for the feedback.
Great job! That was absolutely perfect. I was shocked at the results from the soaking bolts. I would of bet "no way would there be a measurable difference". I couldn't of been more wrong. You can clearly see the difference in color along with the pile of gunk in the bottom of the glass jar. It makes me think of how much carbon could be dissolved running a full tank thru my vehicle. Obviously getting a different octane rating than what the engine was designed for won't give any benefit, but opting for a high quality name brand (Shell, Mobil, Sunoco, etc) vs. "Fuel Plus" or "GasMan" (those are just some budget generic brands in my area, if you never heard of them lol) could make a big difference in build up even over the course of a few tanks of gas.
I think I'll stick to 87 octane from a name brand 100% of the time and try to run a system cleaner once a month just to maintain a clean system from now on. Thank you for all your hard work. I can't imagine how much work is involved in putting something together this in depth. It really is appreciated. BTW I have honestly changed my "normal operating procedure" on what goes into my vehicle based off your testing and this video will refine it once again. Thanks!
Thank you!
You quickly became my favorite channel 😉 more valuable then gold!
Wow, thanks!
Thanks for sharing this here, and allowing comments too. I use about 10 gals/week= premium costs me about $10/week more. I may be wasting that $10, but i think my car starts easier & accelerates better with 93 octane. The $10/wk is nothing compared to how much my food and electric costs have climbed in the last year, and every year for the last ten years.
Great point. Thank you!
If your vehicle doesnt require premium then you are more than likely wasting the money. The higher octane rating doesnt indicate that it will help create more power. The only reason to run a higher octane fuel is if the engine requires it. The octane rating is the fuels ability to resist preignition because of compression, which is why higher compression engines require premium, because they would knock if 87 was used
Old video - oct 2024 - regular is 2.60 87 oct, 93 oct shell 3.60. I filled with it today. It has to be better, it actually smelled like gas. Much stronger smell. I'll try a few tanks if for nothing else the cleaning. I use Stabil mobile, but i think thats more to preserve the fuel than clean anything.
Thanks for sharing.
Wonderful, simple, accurate and informative tests for the ordinary person with no BS. A breath of fresh air!
Thank you!