Thank you, i spent hours looking for this part/loction, part info. I have Chilton repair manual and no mention of this part/location other then stating there are two temp sensors. You have to wonder wtf everybody other then you and one other left this info out.
Your video inspired me to change them on my sons 1998 Toyota Avalon XLS. It fixed the codes related to coolant temperature sensor and oxigen sensors. I was still getting the codes for oxigen sensors even after me replacing them. Once I changed these sensors it cleared the codes and I don't have the engine light on anymore. Thank you!
This is a fantastic video .. thank you! Sir ..?you have helped me a lot with whole information.. My 1998 Camry v6 is having the same issues you’re explaining here..
Great video, very helpful. I am working through this issue right now. The one temperature switch you show on the side of the engine is on the bottom of the radiator on my 2001 Lexus ES300. The other ones are right where you indicated next to the thermostat.
I have a 94 Camry V6 Xle, There are 3 sensors total on my Camry. Passenger side near the radiator filler neck sits the coolant temperature sensor and temperature gauge sensor that has a one wire connection and 1 on the drivers side on top the thermostat housing is the fan switch/sensor, You can find all 3 sensors at a cheap price if you know where to look. I use the obd ll connector to retrieve codes.
I noticed that you have the hydraulic fan. My 92 Lexus ES300 is the same. The fan speed on mine goes up and down erratically and starts to get hot. Replaced radiator, and thermostat, and put OEM Toyota pink coolant. Flushed the power steering and fan, steering is great. I think the fan speed sensor might be my problem. Thank you.
im working on these issue too, p0125 came on, i got a new ect sensor but i got given a green one not a grey one, im not sure if that does anything abnormal to the car, cause afterwards the same p0125 code came back on. tthe sendor i havent tried yet, but my fans works when it neeeds too and spin the right speed
Nice, thanks. BUT you did a video awhile ago about changing transmission solenoids on 1995 or 94 Camry. I followed your video, changed the solenoids, but still have the same codes and no 2nd gear, and must shift manually. No metal in reservoir. Could have gotten bad solenoids? or do you have other suggestions/resources? Thanks
I have a third video that addresses electrical problems with that transmission. Water/moisture commonly enters the plug and or frayed wires and will cause a short or loose connection and send the PCM into protect mode, forcing you to manually shift. Here's the link...ua-cam.com/video/BjSSc7lQKc4/v-deo.html
Hello I have the same car, trying to find coolant temperature sensor which connects to radiator fan. Please help me Cannot find as he says! Hard to find
The one wire sensor on the passenger side in the front is most likely the suspect. You have 3 sensors to worry about, but only one controls the gauge. It's smaller than the other two, and located close to the top motor mount, passenger side. MOST OF ALL, HAS ONLY ONE WIRE. Easy to identify, it only serves one purpose, that gauge.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 well crazy story, I ordered one coolant temp sensor, and yesterday I got it, I got a gauge sender instead which also fits in my car, righ now I had the curiosity to put it in the engine and suddenly, the gauge started moving again when I turned the ignition on, engine was warm
Start with this. 1.Open the driver's door. 2.Insert key into ignition. 3.Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 3 seconds -- go as fast as yo can, or the system will not enter the programming mode.) 4.Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 5.Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times (again, do this within 3 seconds.) 6.Within 10 seconds, close and open the door. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7.Within 20 seconds, press the LOCK button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 8.Within 20 seconds, press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. 9.Repeat steps 7 and 8 for each transmitter to be added. 10.Remove key from ignition.
If you don't have a key fob, look under the dash steering column area. Follow the wires from the ignition, most factory alarms tie-in there. Look for a wiring diagram online or in a manual for the color code. You should be able to disable it by cutting one wire or bypassing one wire. Other than that, your question is a little bit generic. I need a little bit of background info.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 even with the fuses removed the alarm goes off for no reason sometimes while driving, it takes a while to turn it off no matter what I try I just keep messing around unlocking the door, trying to start it etc, but it stops when it wants to really. I have the key fob, too. It's just on the fritz and I'm not sure why, I'd rather just have no alarm. How does bypassing a wire work? Sorry I have alot to learn about my cars still, any and all advice is very appreciated. :)
@@RatBastard77 The ides is to eliminate the alarm's control over the ignition. Usually there is a factory alarm relay under the dash around the steering column. The idea is to bypass that relay which disables the alarm completely.
Yeah. That's possible on some of the later models. That would be attached to the radiator, what we consider an external component sensor. In this video we tried to focus on sensors that pertained to the engine block and engine components. There are many sub model sensors on later models, even sensors that pertain to power steering fluid temperature, transmission fluid, etc. That's when the later models get all fancy dancy. It's good to know what make and model was your vehicle? With the radiator fan temp sensor. It would be helpful for viewers to know. Thanks.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 Mine is a 1998 camry with the 1mz. I believe it has the same set up as the one in your video. It's making me a bit paranoid as I do have some jerky acceleration when I am coasting with minimal throttle. The plugs are new, the fans would never kick in which is why I figured out it was the fan temperature switch in the bottom on the radiator. Im now wondering if the actual ECU temp sensor is malfunctioning somewhat and providing incorrect data making the car run rich.
Thank you, i spent hours looking for this part/loction, part info. I have Chilton repair manual and no mention of this part/location other then stating there are two temp sensors. You have to wonder wtf everybody other then you and one other left this info out.
Your video inspired me to change them on my sons 1998 Toyota Avalon XLS. It fixed the codes related to coolant temperature sensor and oxigen sensors. I was still getting the codes for oxigen sensors even after me replacing them. Once I changed these sensors it cleared the codes and I don't have the engine light on anymore. Thank you!
This is a fantastic video .. thank you! Sir ..?you have helped me a lot with whole information.. My 1998 Camry v6 is having the same issues you’re explaining here..
Thank you for this great video .. thank you! It gives me all answers I needed ...
Great video, very helpful. I am working through this issue right now. The one temperature switch you show on the side of the engine is on the bottom of the radiator on my 2001 Lexus ES300. The other ones are right where you indicated next to the thermostat.
Thank you for this great video
Thanks for your video!
Great vid mate cheers
I have a 94 Camry V6 Xle, There are 3 sensors total on my Camry. Passenger side near the radiator filler neck sits the coolant temperature sensor and temperature gauge sensor that has a one wire connection and 1 on the drivers side on top the thermostat housing is the fan switch/sensor, You can find all 3 sensors at a cheap price if you know where to look. I use the obd ll connector to retrieve codes.
I was about to say this myself! He missed the 1 connector one lol. Rockauto has them as well although it's a bit confusing to order
Awesome video, thanks loads
Very helpful
Thank you
Thank you for these great vids you answer all my questions.u saved money too thank you
You are welcome sir.
I noticed that you have the hydraulic fan. My 92 Lexus ES300 is the same. The fan speed on mine goes up and down erratically and starts to get hot. Replaced radiator, and thermostat, and put OEM Toyota pink coolant. Flushed the power steering and fan, steering is great. I think the fan speed sensor might be my problem. Thank you.
Yes, that expensive Toyota Brown One.
im working on these issue too, p0125 came on, i got a new ect sensor but i got given a green one not a grey one, im not sure if that does anything abnormal to the car, cause afterwards the same p0125 code came back on. tthe sendor i havent tried yet, but my fans works when it neeeds too and spin the right speed
Hey where did you get that intake resonator cap from?
Do these sensors need any new crush washer to seal them ?
Nice, thanks. BUT you did a video awhile ago about changing transmission solenoids on 1995 or 94 Camry. I followed your video, changed the solenoids, but still have the same codes and no 2nd gear, and must shift manually. No metal in reservoir. Could have gotten bad solenoids? or do you have other suggestions/resources? Thanks
I have a third video that addresses electrical problems with that transmission. Water/moisture commonly enters the plug and or frayed wires and will cause a short or loose connection and send the PCM into protect mode, forcing you to manually shift. Here's the link...ua-cam.com/video/BjSSc7lQKc4/v-deo.html
Hello I have the same car, trying to find coolant temperature sensor which connects to radiator fan. Please help me
Cannot find as he says! Hard to find
www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM-Toyota-Lexus-89429-33010-Coolant-Temperature-Fan-Switch/233384987780?epid=658562478&hash=item3656d44c84:g:vtIAAOSwC2lduco3
Whts the part number u couldn found the package
Hi, I own a ‘94 camry V6 and my issue is that the water temperature gauge is not working at all, what should I do/replace?
The one wire sensor on the passenger side in the front is most likely the suspect. You have 3 sensors to worry about, but only one controls the gauge. It's smaller than the other two, and located close to the top motor mount, passenger side. MOST OF ALL, HAS ONLY ONE WIRE. Easy to identify, it only serves one purpose, that gauge.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 well crazy story, I ordered one coolant temp sensor, and yesterday I got it, I got a gauge sender instead which also fits in my car, righ now I had the curiosity to put it in the engine and suddenly, the gauge started moving again when I turned the ignition on, engine was warm
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 thanks a lot
Where is the thermostat on this car??? please
Above the transmission on the right side of the engine when looking at it from the hood. It's inside the water neck.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 thank you so very much.🤝
Do you know anything about disconnecting the alarm on a '99 Amigo?
Start with this.
1.Open the driver's door.
2.Insert key into ignition. 3.Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This step must be completed within 3 seconds -- go as fast as yo can, or the system will not enter the programming mode.) 4.Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times. 5.Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times (again, do this within 3 seconds.) 6.Within 10 seconds, close and open the door. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode. 7.Within 20 seconds, press the LOCK button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that the door locks cycle once. 8.Within 20 seconds, press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code. 9.Repeat steps 7 and 8 for each transmitter to be added. 10.Remove key from ignition.
If you don't have a key fob, look under the dash steering column area. Follow the wires from the ignition, most factory alarms tie-in there. Look for a wiring diagram online or in a manual for the color code. You should be able to disable it by cutting one wire or bypassing one wire. Other than that, your question is a little bit generic. I need a little bit of background info.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 even with the fuses removed the alarm goes off for no reason sometimes while driving, it takes a while to turn it off no matter what I try I just keep messing around unlocking the door, trying to start it etc, but it stops when it wants to really. I have the key fob, too. It's just on the fritz and I'm not sure why, I'd rather just have no alarm. How does bypassing a wire work? Sorry I have alot to learn about my cars still, any and all advice is very appreciated. :)
@@RatBastard77 The ides is to eliminate the alarm's control over the ignition. Usually there is a factory alarm relay under the dash around the steering column. The idea is to bypass that relay which disables the alarm completely.
There's another sensor at the bottom of the radiator. It's called a radiator fan temperature switch ( sensor ) and mine was done.
Yeah. That's possible on some of the later models. That would be attached to the radiator, what we consider an external component sensor. In this video we tried to focus on sensors that pertained to the engine block and engine components. There are many sub model sensors on later models, even sensors that pertain to power steering fluid temperature, transmission fluid, etc. That's when the later models get all fancy dancy. It's good to know what make and model was your vehicle? With the radiator fan temp sensor. It would be helpful for viewers to know. Thanks.
@@shadetreeautomotiveenthusi1284 Mine is a 1998 camry with the 1mz. I believe it has the same set up as the one in your video. It's making me a bit paranoid as I do have some jerky acceleration when I am coasting with minimal throttle. The plugs are new, the fans would never kick in which is why I figured out it was the fan temperature switch in the bottom on the radiator. Im now wondering if the actual ECU temp sensor is malfunctioning somewhat and providing incorrect data making the car run rich.
@@Super6-Four Here is a link to another video I made. This should answer your question. ua-cam.com/video/0peZWycnAxM/v-deo.html
which censor for fan switch? and which one for sending to ecu?
блин! насколько же у иностранцев машины чистые от пыли и глины, нежели у нас в странах снг
Благодарю вас
Por favor español
autozone parts are trash OEM is the way to go