IFSC Worldcup Brixen 2022 - The route setting process #1
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- IFSC Worldcup in Brixen 2022 - The route setting process #1
climb-holds.com sent Niki down to Brixen and he covered (almost) everything what's going on while setting, tweaking, testing on the setting days, pre comp and at the comp.
www.climb-holds.com - #onestopshop for climb holds, macros & volumes
Special thanks to the phenomenal, fun & awesome setting team:
Marcin Wszolek | IFSC Head setter | marcin_wszolek_
Matthieu Dutray | IFSC setter | matthieudutray
Tsukuru Hori | IFSC junior setter | tsukuru_8611
Stefan Scarperi | stefanscarperi
Marko Erspamer | kirsch_climbing
Riccardo Caprasecca | riccardocaprasecca
Hannes Mantinger | hannesmantinger
Jeremy Lemau | jeremy_lemau
For more: bit.ly/2HWJ5uh
If you want to support Niki please consider to become a Patreon so i can do more Videos like this: / heldniklas
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betarout...
QUESTION - Have a question about Bouldering, Climbing, Route Setting, Technique, filming or Anything Else? Post in comments section of this video!
Beta Routesetting on Social Media:
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/ betarouteset. .
Hey friends i can't thank the setters enough: I knew some from before but it's incredibly annoying having me around (already in life) but with a camera in your face and still doing such an awesome job! THANKS FRIENDS
thank you for this episode..now some people may imagine, how difficult this job is.
Super great episode thankyou was so interesting to watch the process! would love it if you could do more of these at different world cups
Ohh man, Tsukuru is such a frriggin boss!
I find it fascinating how collaborative the process is and that people don’t seem to feel personal ownership over the boulder they’re setting, they’re all happy to change things and take constructive criticism with no ego
please can you ask the chief setter why there were no women on the team?
it seems like it should be mandatory
I'd love to see more of this. It's super cool and I've always wondered how the world cup process works. If it were to be done again, which I hope it is, it would be nice to have text boxes or something saying which routes they were talking about when
Maybe I find another way - have to add timestamps 😇
Knowing that this is only part 1 makes me sooo happy! Thank you for sharing this with us Niki!
This was extremely informative. It seems such a magic profession. Still is, to a certain point. How om earth do you decide on the difficulty? Must be nerve wrecking for those setters.
Thank you for showing a little bit of the magic! I do still hope you will find the time to make analysis! Love those 👍❤️
i have a hard time getting episodes 2,3 done ;) 2 will come soon but the reports... puh. would people watch it even though the season is over?
@@BetaRoutesetting That is great news about episode 2! Thank you ❤ And about the report, yes yes yes! Me and my fellow subscribers would watch the hell out of it! Your reports are brilliant and makes me notice subtle details I always miss. You know your stats better than I but I think all your reports have thousands of views. If you don't feel like it or are too busy with other things than don't make them. But please don't underestimate how well people appreciate them.
@@BetaRoutesetting yes
@@BetaRoutesetting it would be really cool to include a couple clips of the competitors trying some of these boulders at the end of the video too 🙌🏼
@@54Jackkelly54 this will happen in the future episodes - the tweaks are not done yet and we didn't finish the setting yet ;) more to come
I could watch this stuff for hours. Thanks brother!
This was a really interesting world cup. Thanks again for sharing the process of routesetting and testing the boulders. Great job by the setters, but also you as well. The shots and editing were very good
Thanks! Capturing all the talks was super difficult and the different volumes… let’s see what I can improve for next time but I think it was a good start. Thanks for the feedback
It's really interesting watching the setters opine about how many females would top the first semi finals problem (yellow coordination move), and then see how many actually topped the problem in the comp.
incredible works! love to watch this kind of behind the scenes!
This is an amazing opportunity and I’m so glad you got to film it!! Much love from North Carolina
Super cool to be able to see people working at the top of their field like this. Thanks for getting out there and documenting it!
One of the best route setting videos! Thanks a lot for this 50 min long master piece
Thank you for sharing behind the courtain ! So cool to see how they work.
Incredibly interesting, keep them coming please !
So cool, I’ve never seen a behind the scenes of world cup routesetting.🤩
The route-setting this year is absolutely phenomenal. Great to see the team at work. Massive respect.
what an incredible insight!
loved it, keep it up!
so sick! more vids like this please
excellent, love it.
we need women setting too.
exactly, need to put much more effort in recruiting and training so that at least 1-2 women are on there to set and give there insights
I expect to see women setters bringing in some really cool stuff!
The women’s routesetting is so inconsistent because it’s always just men guessing what the women can do and usually, the either overestimate or, more often, underestimate their abilities.
I think women did SLC1
Great video!!! Nik!!! Thank you very much for sharing us these moments!😃💪
Was great to meet you finally in person Simone! See you hopefully soon again in Italy
@@BetaRoutesetting Also for me it was a huge pleasure to meet you in person, it was really fun to share thoughts and ideas! Thanks for these great videos of yours, they teach a lot about the process !! I hope to see you again soon, write me when you come to Italy! see you soon Niky!
Pretty good video! I’m excited for what these have the potential to become if you keep working on them. Hopefully there is some content for the lead season coming as well.
Pleeesa keep doing these type of videos. They are 💎💎
I love the language between these guys make it power tricky power tricky tricky power
Loved the insight!
Great video! M4 is such a sick boulder.
This was very interesting. I've not long started watching/following the IFSC and loving watching the comps, always see the 3D rendered routes and wondered how exactly they were designed, all in the computer and then tweaked once there or....? Cool to see the thinking and thought processes that goes on to end up at what the climbers see in competition.
So good Niki. Thank you.
Very cool to see this process 🙏
Thank you for sharing this
Great video! Much thanks for making it happen and looking forward to more
Superb!
Niki, this is just incredible! Massive thanks to you and the setters (and I imagine some high ups at the IFSC) for making this happen. I wonder did they have some special protocols to prevent the video leaking before the comp or was it just down to trust?
No ifsc involved at all. More like the organizers of brixen and high5 the Australian / Italian distributor. They organized everything and let me float around 😊
Ah Protocols? No. No one is supposed to share videos but you don’t have to sign anything - the organizers tried to cover the area as good as possible - entry to the venue was forbidden to other people - I guess there could have been sneaking positions but no one did. And tourists got asked friendly not to take pictures / publish things.
But if the organizer doesn’t have the capacity / wall to shelter the problems things like Innsbruck happen…
@@BetaRoutesetting that’s really cool and glad things worked out so well! Not familiar with what you’re referring to at Innsbruck?
@@brendanacord as far as i heard the organizers in innsbruck didn't have a tarp / cover for the bouldering wall. when some para climbing finals happened the setters where still setting & trying the qualification boulder so that some athletes were able to see the quali blocs - fairness wasn't achieved like that. more to read here:
instagram.com/p/CfHNs7-jRb3/
so good
Thanks so much for this bts Niki!
Care to share your thoughts and feelings about the Innsbruck World Cup, where the routes were set days ahead of the comp in plain sight of athletes/coaches/visitors of the climbing gym?
Puh. Maybe in a few days? Id like to elaborate further and see what happened and why
The "American style" note at 2:41 is interesting. I'd be really curious to hear about what makes a boulder "American style."
Haha in former times it used to be a general term used in Europe for more straight forward powerful climbing. Not that tricky and more spectacular simple moves.
It usually always depends on the setting team and each individual interpretation of the term. I honestly also forgot which problem it was supposed to be - or like Marcin said: they all need power 😉
Hey Niki, wieder mal eine sehr interessante Episode. Ich weiß nicht wieviel Mehrarbeit es für dich bedeuten würde, aber wenn du Ausschnitte aus dem eigentlichen Event mit einblenden würdest, wäre es richtig nice. Habe den Worldcup vorher geschaut und frage mit die ganze Zeit, wie die einzelnen boulder am Ende geklettert wurden. Aber ich du steckst ja auch so schon viel Zeit in diesen Kanal.
Das Feedback gab es jetzt vereinzelt. Es verändert den chronologischen Ablauf komplett und macht unglaublich viel mehr Arbeit… ich werde es aber dennoch mal in der nächsten Episode versuchen 😂
@@BetaRoutesetting Geiler Typ :)
Molto interessante
Yessssss
The heading should be " I filmed the setting crew while working." the process seems arbitrary and elusive, which it most likely is not. I had the understanding that setters could do the boulder from start to finish in one go, of course after many attempts. Seems that they collectively can say that all moves separately has been completed. Love to learn more. I wonder how it would turn out if all men could do the womens and vv. great to watch still, peace
Interesting. Especially the fact that there isn’t even one woman setting…
Yes. Let’s see when this changes
No women setting for women's boulders?? seems strange
That’s not how it works 😉
@@BetaRoutesetting Anatomically women have on average different proportions and therefore the center of gravity and other important factors can be different, influencing very much how well a person "fits into the box" or how a dynamic move works for the person. Questioning whether there should be at least one female tester for setting a female problem is a very valid question and it comes across as a bit arrogant answering with "that's not how it works ;)" - especially the smiley.
@@len347 Hey Livia, sorry if my answer upset you - which was quite short and looking at it not the information necessary.
What i meant is: It is not the way (so far or ever) that men set for men and women for women. Usually IF a women is part of the team they set for all categories together.
This has nothing to do with the facts that we need more fairness & diversity - so sorry my answer was just pointed at gender sets for their own gender - which in my opinion is also not cool. I´d like to see women setting for male and vice versa... just more of them :)
so i didn´t question it at all :) anyway thanks for your comment and also for speaking out!
happy to talk anytime - niki
@@BetaRoutesetting Hey Niki, thank you for such a considerate answer! So refreshing and nice to read.
I understand what you meant now, so thank you for clarifying.
Cheers, Livia
Insane vid thx
Awesome insights in the testing process! What a strenuous job.
Do you know, roughly how much money a routesetter gets for one IFSC world cup?
Nope sorry. I can ask around
@@BetaRoutesetting That would be awesome, thank you!
how are there no female rout setters?
wow, they need some fresh blood!:)
? Gehts dir wieder besser? :)
Disappointing to see that, as so often, no women were involved in the route setting process. Great video nevertheless, thank you for the insights.
True. Nothing which helps but SLC had some at least… anyway in general a desperate situation
Of course the Italians had a whole gang of setters instead of just one guy :D
Very nice and interesting Video
Like first ! Watch it later.
It could be nice to have some females in the team.
only men??? 😕
any hker here ,, i heart 'diu li ar ' at 09:55
Setting needs more woman