Easy-to-Follow: Sequoia Fuel Tank Removal

Generation 1 Toyota Tundra and Sequoia Owners:
I haven't been able to find any details about this with the limited search feature so I thought I would post some info. I had the common flaky fuel sender problem and I finally changed it. It costs about $65 and you can change it without changing the fuel pump.
Time Stamps
0:00 Thoughts on the repair
0:49 Removing the fuel line clips
1:40 Tank strap removal - with caution
3:14 Unhooking the electrical
3:47 Fuel Pump Removal
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Make sure you get a fuel pump gasket. The original will be dry.
1. Block the front wheels and jack up the back with a floor jack on the rear differential. Put stands under each side of the axle.
2. You will need a transmission jack or a floor jack with a square piece of wood on it to balance the fuel tank as it comes down.
3. Be sure you have run the fuel low. Roughly 25 miles after your low-level light has come on.
4. There is a shield over the tank held in with 5 - 12mm bolts. Remove all and move the shield out of the way.
5. Put the jack under the middle of the tank and raise it up lightly touch the tank. Don't cover the straps.
6. At the rear of the tank there are two hoses to remove. You can remove them at the tank but it is easier to remove them from the other end. More space. They are held with 10mm hose clamps. Remove the clamps then twist/pull the hoses off.
7. The straps are held in by 2 14mm bolts remove those and then remove the straps. The straps may be stuck because of undercarriage protection.
8. Once the straps are out of the way the tank may be loose or it may be stuck. If you just wait, it will probably come loose, or you can pry it gently with a stick or something dull.
9. Once it is loose it will be back heavy. It would be best to have one person balance it and one to lower the jack.
10. Lower slowly and you will see other connections. There is one in the front of the tank that needs to come loose, the other can stay. There is also an evap hose that is hard to see that is at the rear on the passenger side. It should come loose. The electrical connections should reach until the tank is on the ground.
11. Once the tank is on the ground slide the rear end out until you can get to the pump bolts and fuel lines. The lines can be removed. One has a clip that has to be carefully pried from both sides. Remove several 10mm bolts and then wiggle the pump out. Don't set the filter on a dirty surface.
12. At this point, you can change the sender or the whole assembly. The sender has to small screws and an electrical connector.
13. Using the new gasket, reinstall the assembly.
14. Installation is the reverse. REMEMBER to attach 2 fuel lines to pump, 2 electrical connectors (add dielectric grease), the fuel line at the front of the tank, and the evap hose as the tank is going up. Also as the tank is going up don't forget to fish the two rear tubes up over the bar so they can be connected. Double check all of this before putting the straps and shield in place.
15. Once you are confident raise the tank enough to replace the straps and then tighten them in place.
16. Replace the shield and you should be ready for testing. Don't forget to look at the REMEMBER list above.
NOTE: you may need a small screwdriver to help pry off stuck hoses and the plastic clip.
Hope this helps. I am glad to have a reliable fuel gauge again

[@AndresOrtizzle]

You’re a G 🙏🏼 thank you

[@discover4x4]

If you found this helpful, please give the video a Like to help spread the help

[@tlong4577]

They make pliers for those fuel line clips

[@discover4x4]

Cool thanks

[@khalidmohmmed8212]

Can we chang it with one bigger for sequia 2013