The electrical path for the rear defroster is as follows: 1. the +12V feed enters the passenger side glass pane and through the passenger side pane. 2. which then goes to a fixed lower contact located between the sliding glass pane and driver's side fixed glass pane under the black cover. 3 then goes to the lower sliding contact and through the sliding window pane 4. then goes to the upper sliding contact 5. which then goes to the upper fixed contact to the drivers side fixed glass pane. This is also the junction that goes to the EMTC or EATC through a resistor to make the defrost lamp on the dash illuminate 6. the defroster current travels through the drivers side fixed pane and then is connected to ground. The sliding contacts are not designed to be serviceable and will likely be damaged if you try to pry the black cover off. You can, however, get fine multimeter leads under the plastic cover to measure the voltages across the contacts. On my truck the failure was between the passenger side pane and the lower fixed contact... the sliding contacts were both fine.
Ha! Sorry, this was actually made for students and I haven't checked my page much. On these Ford sliding windows, there are two tabs that make contact when the window is closed allowing the current to flow from one side of the window to the other like a switch. On this particular truck, one of those tabs broke away from it's solder joint. These tabs are covered with a rectangular plastic trim.
@@dansmcclongviewautotech9371 saw your reply on rear window defroster. I do have a 2013 f150, relain and breakers are good, so how do I take this rectangular plastic trim off? thx
Anyone know how the black cover/cap comes off from the sliding glass? Is it just glued on to the defroster prongs?
The electrical path for the rear defroster is as follows: 1. the +12V feed enters the passenger side glass pane and through the passenger side pane. 2. which then goes to a fixed lower contact located between the sliding glass pane and driver's side fixed glass pane under the black cover. 3 then goes to the lower sliding contact and through the sliding window pane 4. then goes to the upper sliding contact 5. which then goes to the upper fixed contact to the drivers side fixed glass pane. This is also the junction that goes to the EMTC or EATC through a resistor to make the defrost lamp on the dash illuminate 6. the defroster current travels through the drivers side fixed pane and then is connected to ground. The sliding contacts are not designed to be serviceable and will likely be damaged if you try to pry the black cover off. You can, however, get fine multimeter leads under the plastic cover to measure the voltages across the contacts. On my truck the failure was between the passenger side pane and the lower fixed contact... the sliding contacts were both fine.
How did you fix?
@@nattynopro6967 replacing it. ugh!
@@brucepeterson3246 the whole window or the contacts? Is it worth the money / hassle?
@@nattynopro6967 the minimum repair is the entire rear window. I waited till I could find one on ebay under my gag threshold which I recently found.
So, what was the issue???
Ha! Sorry, this was actually made for students and I haven't checked my page much. On these Ford sliding windows, there are two tabs that make contact when the window is closed allowing the current to flow from one side of the window to the other like a switch. On this particular truck, one of those tabs broke away from it's solder joint. These tabs are covered with a rectangular plastic trim.
@@dansmcclongviewautotech9371 saw your reply on rear window defroster. I do have a 2013 f150, relain and breakers are good, so how do I take this rectangular plastic trim off? thx
Your slider window connection