Very good explained. In order to get the process 100% correct you need to add a charter with brake pad and disk clearing (standing and brake clearing agent).
Your voice and video inspire so much confidence. My new breaks seem to have some air in the line and i am watching this video trying to get my mind around it before I got try to bleed the whole thing, fingers crossed I can get it done easily enough!
I just got into mtb but my front brake had no oil I tried topping it off but nothing so this helped btw don’t take ur pads off just take the whole brake line off and clean it properly that’s what I did n my breaks are mint !!
So interesting that he mentions the bleed nipple must be tightened to 1nm. I have destroyed two Clarks brake systems by tightening that nipple to what I thought was a reasonable tightness, utterly destroying the flimsy thread, 'cos I don't have a torque spanner.
Which adapter can be used to Clarks Clout M1 from the kit? M5x0.8 - Hayes® (x2) M5x0.8 - Formula™ Cura™ (x2) M6x0.75 - Magura® M6x1.0 - Universal (x2) M6x1.0 - Promax® M7x0.75 - Shimano®
Performance of Clout1 is fantastic. On another topic, we've just completed the task with these instructions, it was great, no issues. Unfortunately, It makes loud squeaky noise (must be brake pads or positioning) and the performance went total crap. Redoing it tomorrow and fitting new pads.
Where do you find Clarks Clout 1 compatible mineral oil? Or does just shimano mineral oil works for brakes of any brand? I tried searching for an answer and just can't find anything
@@parktool Double checked it. Theres still resistance from caliper to lever. Could it be due to the lever adjustment set too far causing a lever pull effect?
I need help regarding my clarks clout 1 brakes I got it bleed already but I believe there's still some air inside, when I first press the lever it goes all the way and the brakes won't hold yet then as I press the brakes two or three more times then only then it would brake, I apologize for my english, i can't explain it well but that's that
Does the brake stay pumped up after you pull it a few times? Its common to have to advance the pistons to contact the rotor before the pistons position themselves. If it does not stay pumped up you will need to bleed again. Also be sure to check that your pads do not need to be replaced.
I’ve run them for 2 years now and they are working perfectly fine after about a year I had to replace the pads and bleed it but it’s the same for any brakes really
They are reliable, but these Clout1 brakes, like the Clarks M2 brakes, don't have much power. I've read that the Clarks M2 have 60% of the braking power of a Shimano Deore 2 piston brake, and the Clout1 is weaker than the M2. That's with the standard Clarks brake pads. You really have to use the Clarks with large brake rotors and good quality pads from Shimano, Swissstop, etc. to get barely acceptable performance for use on XC-type mountain biking. The Clout1 brake caliper has two 18mm pistons. By comparison, most Shimano 2 pot brakes have 22mm diameter pistons. Of course there are other factors at play (like the master piston diameter in the brake lever, and servo wave/swing link technology) but the brake piston diameter difference alone points to the Clout1 having 67% of the caliper brake power of a 2 piston Shimano caliper. The good news is that you can remove the Clout1 caliper and directly install something like a Shimano MT400 caliper (which costs about US$16-20). Or even better, you can do the same with a Shimano MT520 or MT420 four piston caliper (which has two 15mm pistons and two 17mm pistons) - like the MT400 this can be done without changing any hardware on the brake hose. Just unscrew the hose fitting from the Clarks brake caliper, screw the fitting into the MT420 caliper, bleed, and that brake immediately has around 60% more power based on the piston size alone, that's without accounting for the much larger brake pads used by the 4 piston calipers - for a cost of around US$40 for the Shimano caliper. If you do this to the front brake alone the lever feel between front and rear brake is a bit unbalanced ( the lever activating the Clarks caliper will feel a bit "wooden" and lever travel and power doesn't increase much as you pull harder, while the lever activating the Shimano caliper has more travel and modulation, with power increasing as you pull harder) but the increase in stopping power is large. How do I know this? Last year I bought a set of Clarks Clout1 front and rear brakes for less than US$40 including shipping to Canada from Chain Reaction Cycles. I figured I'd eventually use them. When I installed them on an old Trek Fuel my wife uses this past summer, they seemed just a bit too weak. I spent an additional US$60 to get a Shimano MT420 caliper and a Shimano MT400 caliper and ended up with a really strong complete set of brakes for around $100. This is still cheaper than a set of Shimano MT200 brakes, has a more ergonomic lever than either the MT200 or MT400, and has significantly more power. For this compatibility with Shimano calipers alone I really like these Clarks brakes.
@@Bikey_McBeardface I purchased clarck M2 hydraulic, and for their price are very good. I like to control how much I brake and, Shimano brakes only lock. With them it feels a bit better. FOR ME. Bt thanks for the reply
You make made it look like a lot of fafing around. The manufacturer Clarks in the UK didn’t make that much of a song and dance performance to do this job. I will keep it simple , our British way. It looks like your rear brake is on the Right side of handlebar, in the UK the front brake is on the Right, rear brake on the Left side of handlebar.
That's why I am glad I am buying a prefilled set since my brakes are spongy as he'll ok I have to admit I use a enjuro bike for riding to work because its slightly more comfortable than a road bike plus I can go off reading and punish the bike and I have crashed a few times lol also heard hissing from my brakes aswel so I know broke something took it down to get serviced when I bought the bike gentle breaking had me over the handle bars lol breaking was very strong new but they are weak now had new pads and it's not strong enough now ok I did probably abuse the brake pads aswel but everyone does it who says a 7000 bike is worth it lol oh ismahsed and broke my carbon frame well who said any hobby was cheap dragster blow up a 50k engine every race and mountain bikers break a 8k frame lol
Sir can you please please give your any old gears system please sir help me mine rear derailleur is crashed into spokes and cassette are tilted becoz I was crashed.sir my family are not supporting me for a new one they say if u want to ride cycle ride without gears or else we will sell your cycle.coz I'm a student from June I have to go to school on cycle my school is 3.2 km far I have been asking many UA-camr like Seth bike hacks fat biker vaibhav but nobody is replying plz sir help me hope sir u will reply me. Please please reply me sir.
Very good explained. In order to get the process 100% correct you need to add a charter with brake pad and disk clearing (standing and brake clearing agent).
Your voice and video inspire so much confidence. My new breaks seem to have some air in the line and i am watching this video trying to get my mind around it before I got try to bleed the whole thing, fingers crossed I can get it done easily enough!
Helped me yet again ! I'm becoming a competent bike mechanic, thanks 😊
I'm From Bangladesh and I'm in need of this Channel's Videos.
Many thanks informative video fourth time of trying I've now got my breaks , thank you Calvin ..
Followed your guide. Couldn't have been simpler. Thanks
Best cycle repairing channel
nice one for doing these brands! the beat is sick at 1.5x. much love
I just got into mtb but my front brake had no oil I tried topping it off but nothing so this helped btw don’t take ur pads off just take the whole brake line off and clean it properly that’s what I did n my breaks are mint !!
Thank you! Moustache Man saves the day again ❤
So interesting that he mentions the bleed nipple must be tightened to 1nm. I have destroyed two Clarks brake systems by tightening that nipple to what I thought was a reasonable tightness, utterly destroying the flimsy thread, 'cos I don't have a torque spanner.
I just tighten it so I can still open it easily dont tight it when theirs a little pressure
Can you leaver bleed Clark’s clout 1 with a funnel to get bits of air out ? Thankyou
Nice video 👍
Great advice thanks worked a treat.
So much better than Clark's instructions.
Bonjour , Merci , Thank you. ☑ ✌
I am desperately trying to bleed my breaks myself, wish me luck 🙏
2 week late good luck
Very helpful 👍
Where can i buy the purple adapter is there a link and whats the sizd called
Those are M5x 0.8mm thread commonly used on Formula Cura brakes.
Which adapter can be used to Clarks Clout M1 from the kit?
M5x0.8 - Hayes® (x2)
M5x0.8 - Formula™ Cura™ (x2)
M6x0.75 - Magura®
M6x1.0 - Universal (x2)
M6x1.0 - Promax®
M7x0.75 - Shimano®
M5x0.8 up front and M6x1.0 in the rear.
@@parktool thank you so much!
Do you guys tried Clarks clout1?
How's the performance❤
Performance of Clout1 is fantastic. On another topic, we've just completed the task with these instructions, it was great, no issues. Unfortunately, It makes loud squeaky noise (must be brake pads or positioning) and the performance went total crap. Redoing it tomorrow and fitting new pads.
When are you going to the magura hs33r
Where do you find Clarks Clout 1 compatible mineral oil? Or does just shimano mineral oil works for brakes of any brand? I tried searching for an answer and just can't find anything
Shimano Mineral oil will be just fine in Clarks brakes.
@@parktool Thank you very much for answer!
how do I identify what type of oil I have ? dot or Mineral
Usually says on lever or caliper somewhere at least mine do anyway
What hydraulic brake brand can you recommend to me?
Help❗❗❗ I can't push the syringe from caliper to the lever.
If the port is open and the lever is not pulled it should be free to flow from caliper to lever.
@@parktool Double checked it. Theres still resistance from caliper to lever. Could it be due to the lever adjustment set too far causing a lever pull effect?
I need help regarding my clarks clout 1 brakes I got it bleed already but I believe there's still some air inside, when I first press the lever it goes all the way and the brakes won't hold yet then as I press the brakes two or three more times then only then it would brake, I apologize for my english, i can't explain it well but that's that
Does the brake stay pumped up after you pull it a few times? Its common to have to advance the pistons to contact the rotor before the pistons position themselves. If it does not stay pumped up you will need to bleed again. Also be sure to check that your pads do not need to be replaced.
Same problem
@@parktool thanks a lot for this, I ended up getting it bleed again but didn't work, so I ended up changing to Shimano ones
@@jvdarwinGAjr I just replaced mine with Shimano, the issue didn't go away after lots of bleed and mineral oil replacement
@@ejbicomong1587 maybe I should too. When I reset the piston and pull the brake it touches my handle grip but the next pull is okay.
How good are those budget Clarks compared to the shimanos? They're really popular over here
In India
I’ve run them for 2 years now and they are working perfectly fine after about a year I had to replace the pads and bleed it but it’s the same for any brakes really
Ive had them on my full sus for 2 years now and they still work brilliantly with plenty of power they havent even needed blead yet.
They are reliable, but these Clout1 brakes, like the Clarks M2 brakes, don't have much power. I've read that the Clarks M2 have 60% of the braking power of a Shimano Deore 2 piston brake, and the Clout1 is weaker than the M2. That's with the standard Clarks brake pads. You really have to use the Clarks with large brake rotors and good quality pads from Shimano, Swissstop, etc. to get barely acceptable performance for use on XC-type mountain biking.
The Clout1 brake caliper has two 18mm pistons. By comparison, most Shimano 2 pot brakes have 22mm diameter pistons. Of course there are other factors at play (like the master piston diameter in the brake lever, and servo wave/swing link technology) but the brake piston diameter difference alone points to the Clout1 having 67% of the caliper brake power of a 2 piston Shimano caliper.
The good news is that you can remove the Clout1 caliper and directly install something like a Shimano MT400 caliper (which costs about US$16-20). Or even better, you can do the same with a Shimano MT520 or MT420 four piston caliper (which has two 15mm pistons and two 17mm pistons) - like the MT400 this can be done without changing any hardware on the brake hose. Just unscrew the hose fitting from the Clarks brake caliper, screw the fitting into the MT420 caliper, bleed, and that brake immediately has around 60% more power based on the piston size alone, that's without accounting for the much larger brake pads used by the 4 piston calipers - for a cost of around US$40 for the Shimano caliper.
If you do this to the front brake alone the lever feel between front and rear brake is a bit unbalanced ( the lever activating the Clarks caliper will feel a bit "wooden" and lever travel and power doesn't increase much as you pull harder, while the lever activating the Shimano caliper has more travel and modulation, with power increasing as you pull harder) but the increase in stopping power is large.
How do I know this? Last year I bought a set of Clarks Clout1 front and rear brakes for less than US$40 including shipping to Canada from Chain Reaction Cycles. I figured I'd eventually use them. When I installed them on an old Trek Fuel my wife uses this past summer, they seemed just a bit too weak. I spent an additional US$60 to get a Shimano MT420 caliper and a Shimano MT400 caliper and ended up with a really strong complete set of brakes for around $100. This is still cheaper than a set of Shimano MT200 brakes, has a more ergonomic lever than either the MT200 or MT400, and has significantly more power.
For this compatibility with Shimano calipers alone I really like these Clarks brakes.
@@mediasucks holy moly, thanks for the write-up! I think I might indeed try your approach, thanks!
Can you reuse a olive from clarks clout 1?
You cannot re use it if you shorten the hose. But if you are disconnecting to check the seal or for routing you can re use it.
does anyone know what break pads you need for this brake
shimano b10s
What model is that Origin 8 Brakes?
There was only one model. A private label, most likely, and service like Clarks®
i cant push the syringe in the calliper why?
Yeah! Same goes to my clout 1.
Hope Calvin may have an answer.
are clark brakes good?
No it better to get tektro or Shimano
They are for the price but they come from the factory pretty poorly setup (over filled usually and full of air) so bleed them.
@@Bikey_McBeardface I purchased clarck M2 hydraulic, and for their price are very good. I like to control how much I brake and, Shimano brakes only lock. With them it feels a bit better. FOR ME. Bt thanks for the reply
They are garbage
@@SWFCite why. For me they are pretty good
V Nice mustache 👌
👍
You make made it look like a lot of fafing around. The manufacturer Clarks in the UK didn’t make that much of a song and dance performance to do this job. I will keep it simple , our British way. It looks like your rear brake is on the Right side of handlebar, in the UK the front brake is on the Right, rear brake on the Left side of handlebar.
6:58 mate that is the spongiest bloody brake i've ever seen in my life. you gotta leave this to professionals as someone may get hurt from this.
Its a hydraulic brake, they are supposed to be easy to use
That's why I am glad I am buying a prefilled set since my brakes are spongy as he'll ok I have to admit I use a enjuro bike for riding to work because its slightly more comfortable than a road bike plus I can go off reading and punish the bike and I have crashed a few times lol also heard hissing from my brakes aswel so I know broke something took it down to get serviced when I bought the bike gentle breaking had me over the handle bars lol breaking was very strong new but they are weak now had new pads and it's not strong enough now ok I did probably abuse the brake pads aswel but everyone does it who says a 7000 bike is worth it lol oh ismahsed and broke my carbon frame well who said any hobby was cheap dragster blow up a 50k engine every race and mountain bikers break a 8k frame lol
Isopropyl alcohol...
How do you re-install the rear bleed screw without fluid pouring out??
This is crappy design by Clark.
How?? Do you know??
Sir can you please please give your any old gears system please sir help me mine rear derailleur is crashed into spokes and cassette are tilted becoz I was crashed.sir my family are not supporting me for a new one they say if u want to ride cycle ride without gears or else we will sell your cycle.coz I'm a student from June I have to go to school on cycle my school is 3.2 km far
I have been asking many UA-camr like Seth bike hacks fat biker vaibhav but nobody is replying plz sir help me hope sir u will reply me. Please please reply me sir.
Sir you can check my comments on Seth bikes hack last to last video
Nobody gives anything out for free.
*don't push your pistons in, unless they are clean*
Gave it a go...bike covered with oil...brake fucked...thanks
Skill issue
That was the most confusing video I’ve ever seen in my life
Lmfao it's a perfect video what's so confusing 😕
Too quick