Air rises. You use the syringe to push the fluid up from the bottom toward the cup. Just fill the syringe with 20mils of fluid, put a small amount of oil in the cup, and push the fluid through to the cup.
This makes more sense and worked better for me as the fitting on the cup was not air tight and was letting air in. I just had to refill the syringe and empty the cup as the system ended up full of air.
@@homeandtravel7235 I still haven’t done mine. I was waiting for confirmation that this is not what they are doing in the video. Gonna try it. Seems to make more sense.
Was it easy for you doing it his way ? I’ve tried once before to do my brakes and it was awful I accidentally pulled on wrong lever and it went everywhere 😢
You explained it very well Unlike most people they talk so much and do very little of showing me what to do you showed us step-by-step which that's the way it's supposed to be done thank you very much
due to the fitting screw sizes of my kit, i had to use the cup at the bottom and syringe at the top. Worked perfectly and was easy to keep an eye on the level of oil in the cup. the retail shop that sold my scooter quoted me NZD 250 to do this, I bought the kit through Amazon for $20. spent $50 to get free delivery and now I've learned a new skill. The retail store did me a favor :) Thanks for your video was a great help.
First, the video was very helpful. I have an Aventon bike with Zoom breaks and I had to bleed them after riding it about 50 miles. I keep reading their are issues with these brakes. But, thank you!
When threads are of two different materials, plastic funnel into metal fitting, for example, it is helpful to turn it in the opposite or loosen direction applying light pressure. You will feel a slight "bump" as the threads align and then you can tighten with less concern about cross threading the plastic threads.
I was able to do it with just repeatedly topping off the hole at the master cylinder and barely flicking the lever to get the bubbles out. I went from no lever to full lever with only a dozen or so flicks. I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to say the least.
Just got my first escooter with hydraulic brakes and need to bleed them. This is a great video. Waiting on that exact bleed kit from Amazon. Can’t wait. Thank you for the vid.
June 13 2024, thanks for the great video. I just followed your directions and BOOM screach! I go brakes again. I wish you great wealth and happiness. all the best neal sw fla.
Thanks for the video. This is the first time that I manage to fix my brakes myself. They work perfectly now. And it is thanks to this video and believe me I have seen many videos before with instructions how to bleed brakes😁
Update, after much thought i decided to do a "reverse bleed" pumping the fluid from the caliper to the lever where the fluid cup was attached as i figured the thread was not tight enough on there and letting air in. My bike only has plugs not bleed nipples so the thread sits inside the hole. Managed to get all the air out and brakes working perfect again.
Great content. I think the practical thing to do is to close the hole in the caliper after you finish replacing the oil and take out any bubble of air through the lever. Just make sure you move your lever in the four directions. Up, down, left and Right.
What are you talking about lever? I’m new at this. I’m about to attempt to bleed the zoom brakes on my trike and I’m absolutely in terror. Lol. What lever?
Thanks for the tutorial i was about to just go back to cable ones, saved me like 50 bucks i just need a bleedkit and oil for them lol. but personally if i get anything on my rotors i put some acetone on a towel and clean them with that, works like a charm.
Get a couple of business cards and put them on either side of the rotors. Apply the brake, then tighten the bolts. This way, that eliminates the shifting of the caliper when you are tightening them down and ensures perfect Clearance. You're welcome 😁
Good job,some tips that When you bleed the air at the lever end, install the Robert clamp on the hose of the syringe and close it, so that the brake fluid will not flow to the syringe and improve the efficiency of air bleed
when i get oil on my pads and rotors i boil the pads and rotors in a pot..It works very well..after about a minute in boiling water the oil will come off and rise to the surface then try and scoop the oil out with a spoon and just leave them in there until no more oil floats on the surface of the water..Hope this works for others :)
You just saved me a trip too the service centre! I didn’t know what too do about my breaks this video was so insightful! Thank you so much! I can’t wait too get my break bleed kit and do this on the weekend!
Everything went perfectly although I need too find the right bleed kit for my brakes the cup didn’t work so I used both syringes and bled the brakes that way but worked like a a charm!
Thank you for this tutorial! My E-bike has this brake system. I swapped pads yesterday but the rear brake is very soft, the front brake is not as bad. I knew what the issue was but wanted to see if I could find something on YT about this brake system. Yours was the first video that I selected and the only one I'll need. I took note of the suggestion not to fill the syringe before finding the right nozzle. Because of videos like these I have been able to service my bike myself since purchasing it in May so once again, thank you!
This is very helpful i accidently squirted all the oil out of the tube cause i didnt relies you could do that if you pressed the brake lever with the pads disassembled
Yes I agree, it's best to close the calipers bleed port first. I would suggest plugging the levers bleed port then closing the bleed port on the caliper with the screw first. Then release the levers bleed port again and pump the levers in its current position. Then position the levers to +30 degrees and repeat. Then again at -30 degrees and repeat. Also tap the brake lines and pump the levers again. You will be surprised the amount of air released from the system by doing this. Finally position the levers to the horizontal position and close the levers bleed port with the washer and screw. I find that's the most effective way on my zoom brakes.
Also, I would suggest tying the syringe in a vertical position with a rubber band. Escaping air will rise so this helps air collect towards the plunger away from the caliper. At 1120 you left the syringe hanging down. This will cause any air in the line to flow directly back into the caliper as you pump the lever which is the opposite of what your trying to do. That's why you ran out of oil while trying to pull air into the syringe. Just an opinion though.
@@chinguyen8778 thank you for this. I’m about to do my trike so I have to do two back calipers by myself. I’ve never done this before. I’m absolutely terrified.
@@starlessmystery6429 May I suggest a couple of tips before any nuts & bolts have been removed? Although It can seem daunting and cause a little nervousness for anyone attempting a full brake bleed for the first time, your confidence WILL increase with every turn of the screwdriver. Also, it could come in handy to take pics or short vids before each but/bolt/screw etc. A small container to keep them organised until re-assembly is very simple and will prevent any donations to the swear jar. It is quite easy to mix them up, loose a washer/seal or worse, thread them completely using the incorrect bolt/screw. These calliper bleed port screws have very shallow thread engagements which requiring only a few quarter turns and very little torque to be seated, perhaps only finger tight. Finally, have plenty of rags, lint free towels or anything you don’t mind getting dirty to have handy. It may get messy. But hey, if yours is mineral oil brakes then it’s all good. I heard it’s good for the skin anyhow… Good luck
Thank you. I tried a different method my first time and it was a failure and a mess. Following this was effective, simple, and very clear. Also very little mess at all! From my failed attempt, I did get some mineral oil on the pads. Will it wear down over time or do I need to replace?
We recommend changing the brakepads to be sure, but you can sand the pads down to fix it. Mineral oil on the brake pads will cause an awful grinding sound so changing the pads entirely will resolve the issue
Interesting your rear brake is on the left side. Used to it being on the right. Thanks for the good video. Just recently got my ebike with hydraulic breaks but this will come in handy someday.
Thats because in uk and some other countries we have the front brake lever on the right as its usually the dominant arm/hand and left for rear, so when we brake you would use dominant hand first, i always been of the understanding brake front first, rear last. European set up are usually left front, right rear.
I have the same kit. All I did was filled up each syringe. Connected both. Moved the fluid back and forth until I saw no more bubbles. Brake lever is hard as a rock.
Hey, thanks for this video. I have my first sp from klever. I don't know where the oil screw is on my brakes. It looks a little bit different then yours. I made a picture but is there a way to send it to you? It would be great to know where the oil screw is.
Gotcha, so unfortunately there isn't a way to send a picture through here, but as far as the brakes and screws looking different, it is possible the brake systems on the bikes are different between models. The Zoom brakes we worked on here use the Mineral oil, but the other brands might use a different oil
Connecting Caliper with syringe 1st (Bottum part) is basic then upper Lever cup, and since air will go upwards add juice in the caliper to the upper cup. Thanks, i needed to know about the torx and adaptor sizes. the rest being standard, TYVM Cheers & ride Safe. To clean i prefer contact cleaner, it do not leave any oily residue as alcohol do, test it yourself you will see a cleaner end result with ether (contact cleaner) sorry for spelling errors!! ADDITION-> About using levers to center the caliper; My trick is simply to repeat that process after a certain amount of kilometrage ,loose the bolts; Squeeze the lever and tighten the bolts again , depending on milage &quality of pads+caliiiper used. i think i center them about 2-3 shot before pads need to be replaced , but i think i use pads a tad over 60% and replace em up. My safety being worth a lot more than pads in addition hydraulic brake pads price did drop significantly in the last 3-5 years . I would like to add that once again do not stick into any SUV, CAR, BUS, 10Wheeler's, 45' Trailor Van, or any GAS-POWERED PIECE of (I OWN THE STREET) shit attitude - STAY OUT OF THEM BLIND SPOT...... Not only can it hurt you bad BUT IT'S LIKLY THAT IT WILL KILL YOU . i type this to warn all for yet another cyclist was struck and losse life in my city ; 23YO so so sad . I'm so sad now about this, my home made e bike is very powerfull and fast . the most usefull driving habit i develloped with ebike riding experience is to stick right up their front wright wheel , where they can clearly see me ( when speed is a match , 40-60 KPH ....) funny fact if they insiste really to go in front at that speed... they will get the cops attention and i will go back into stealth mode , thinking about that is helping my morale! and your's also Cheers y'all 2&3 wheeler's fanatics
The brake pistons should be able to squeeze on to the rotor, regardless of the size/width of the pads. In other words, if the pads are worn, then the brakes should still be able to reach to the rotor. This does depend on the system and type of brakes though, as there are many different styles and types. If there are any concerns about the brakes not being able to reach the piston, I would recommend replacing the brake pads just to be safe
This seems like a common issue and happened to me after a few months of riding, my question is how does air get in there if it is a closed and sealed system?
Hi, Nick thanks for commenting, this issue is pretty common on bikes. Yes you shouldn't have to do it a lot, however this is something that just has to be done on a bike. Air can get into the system in a variety of ways such as when being shipped, a screw just didn't get tightened all the way, etc... However this issue is very simple to fix as pictured in the video.
Those rear hub motor fat tires with spokes are the end of me. as soon at the wheel gets out of tru, they start failing bad, dont handle well under pressure, so happy I got a alloy rim
Sry for my english, can u make a vidéo to show us how to set a disc brake? At the receiption of my XF900 my back disc brake is not tighten enough ! Thank you
If the bike is having issues braking after following the bleed tutorial, then it might have some issues with the rotor. If there is oil or some other material on your rotor, that will cause the brake to fail. Are there any local bike shops in the area? It might be worth the time to get the bike checked out.
You might want to double check the brake pads/rotors to see if any oil got on them. If so, then they will be making a heavy grinding sound when the brakes are applied. Unfortunately the only solution would be to replace the pads, but it would solve the noise issue.
By chance do you have the diameter of the fitting you used to bleed these? I ordered the metal tip version of the listed bleed kit, and none of the cup fittings seal to the lever bleed fitting. The one that seems close feels like it wants to cross thread, or is bottoming out against something in the lever.
Wouldn't be more efficient if you pushed oil through the syringe back to the funnel at the top? That way the gravity helps with bleeding too and you get more leverage.
Gotcha, the listing must have changed since we uploaded this video. I'll double check with the mechanics and we will confirm which listing is the best current one and let you know
I checked it over and we updated the listing in the description to include both the DOT and mineral oil. The link from before had stopped supplying the mineral oil, so we had to change to a different supplier.
Can any one maybe help me. I had problems wirh my brakes last year. So I took it in to a shop. The guy fixed it. A week ago my rear brake became spongy . So I checked your guide. I bleeded it . Its working now again BUT it came to my attention that the guy at the bike shop never listened to me last year when i told him about the tiny washer. He must have not put it back. So now i dont have it anymore. I also reckon it could be the cause that let my rear break getting air . Any idea what size this washer is?
Sorry for the delay, so we unfortunately don't know the exact size for this washer, but if it is a Zoom brake, we could supply you with a replacement brake handle, line, and caliper if needed.
Very easy to understand single caliper and single lever... Can you do a demonstration of bleeding a Twin HD (2 mirrored caliper) (1 hand lever) system..? like those use on recumbent trikes where the person only has 1 lever to operate both front brakes..? This is very tricky and getting bubbles out of a 3 way line needs special attention and skill.. Thanks.
Currently, we don't have any models with the specifications that you described. If we did have one though, we could make a video for you! There are probably some other videos tutorials available on this subject though.
@@cyrushertech hello.. tadpole trikes with TWIN HD (1 lever, 2 calipers) are so rare now that no one has made a video.. I called Tektro/TRP CS... they are great at stepping you thru it on the phone but not even they (the manufacturer of TWIN brake systems) has a video.. Thanks
@@starlessmystery6429 I use a Pulsar vibrating tooth brush banded to the hose to move air bubble up and out.. Good luck. On a dual pull hydraulic brake, it is easier to set the trike rear end up on a bucket.. then rotate the reservoir level and tap/vibrate. Twin brakes are easier on a bicycle.. Trikes are a challenge.
i continued to do that but i stayed there doing that for like 10 minutes and air would still go thru the line so I stopped doing it started to get annoyed
i wish i never bought my Zoom Breaks.. Turns out they were EU model or something so the back break is on the left and the front is on the right..can i just switch the hoses? or do i need new breaks?
Yes, you should be able to switch the brake lines sides to make it more comfortable. It does take a bit more work to do, so we would recommend taking it to a local bike shop if needed
Good video. Also highlights how second class this Zoom brake is. Down there should be a more sophisticated screw, a car type closure screw with the hole, to close the hole under the brake fluid around. And not to expose the bottom hole to air etc during trying to screw back again. Zoom hydraulic brake is second class. I've changed mine to Tektro.
Hello, I have a question. I want to match a Shimano brake caliber with Zoom brake lever. What sort insert/olive need I for the brake hose of the shimano brake caliber?
The yellow spacer is meant to hold the caliper pistons apart so that they don't push in on each other when squeezing the brake handle. If the caliper is completely empty (no pads or spacer) and the pistons squeeze out too far, then they could pop out of the caliper
That side of the brake lever is part of the brake system, if yours is leaking, I would check to see if the bolts can tighten to get it sealed up. If the issue persists, you might need to order a new brake handle to switch out with the one that is leaking
I have an electric bike that operates as a bike and a moped, which also has the same setup for changing the oil for the brakes. My electric bike operates using the shimano tektro Mechanical Disc brakes. How often should I bleed my brakes if they needed to be bled out ( if any ).
It is hard to say for sure how often the brakes will need to be bled, as it does depend on vehicle type, usage, number of times previously bled, etc. What we recommend is checking the brakes before each ride and bleeding as necessary, rather than bleeding every 6 months or so for example. The Tektro brand is also a higher end system, so it may need to be bled less often.
Here are the parts we used in this video- Bleed Kit - www.amazon.com/dp/B08L675V5J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Mineral Oil- www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDSFN6S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
We purchased this Vivi 27.5” electric bike and a Tentaquil 26” electric bike for our 13 and 14 year olds. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ The Vivi was much easier to put together. With the Vivi, there was a video link to assist with assembly which made the process easier to follow (we did put the handlebars on upside down, but it was a quick and easy fix). With the Tentaquil, the assembly was not as simple to follow, but after we messaged the company for an assembly video, it was easier and they did respond quickly. The other major differences were that the Vivi has a grip throttle on the right handle (like a motorcycle) and the Tentaquil has a push throttle that you use your thumb to activate. The monitors were also different, so if you’re looking for something specific in terms of changing the bikes functions, pay attention to what the monitor offers. We were really impressed with the overall quality and functionality of both bikes, but if you’re looking for more power and an easier assembly, definitely go with the Vivi!
See I have the same breaks on my bike but when I wheelie and lean the bars to the right it loses all pressure but it doesn’t lose any pressure when I have the bars to the left and tips on what might be wrong?
@@cyrushertech yes it is. I just bought 2 of the kits and a bunch of oil. I have a feeling I’m going to be doing this occasionally because it is very hot and sometimes humid where I live in Texas and I think that may have contributed to the air in my back brakes.
The best option is to push it back in, this may take some effort and possibly something like a screwdriver to push against the opposite of the brake caliper and work it in.
It happened to me and I pushed it in as much as I could with my fingers in the correct orientation. And then I used a brake block to push it in all the way.
Usually, do new hydraulic Disc brakes (NUTT BRAND) come with brake pads already installed? Do new hydraulic brakes need to be bleed before first use ? Thanks
I've just installed the Nutt hydraulic brakes on my escooter and it came with pads. They were also filled with brake fluid so you don't need to bleed it but best to check for any bubbles.
One more thing. I bled accordindly. Still very week brake effect. Because the main cylinder was stuck in its place, did not move. It's not always the air bubbles, but simply corrosion a bit....
And at the start you highlighted the position of the caliper as horizontal as possible. Down you just unscrewed the brake and just hanging around. Should be held upwards or more fixed, etc. Better to do it by two people, to control all movements. Other goid video, many thanks!
Air rises. You use the syringe to push the fluid up from the bottom toward the cup. Just fill the syringe with 20mils of fluid, put a small amount of oil in the cup, and push the fluid through to the cup.
This isn’t what they are doing in the video though right? So this is an alternative?
This makes more sense and worked better for me as the fitting on the cup was not air tight and was letting air in. I just had to refill the syringe and empty the cup as the system ended up full of air.
@@homeandtravel7235 I still haven’t done mine. I was waiting for confirmation that this is not what they are doing in the video. Gonna try it. Seems to make more sense.
I agree. Reverse bleeding is the way to go.
Push all the air and old fluid from the bottom to the top.
👆 this make sense
Thanks for the video. I did all you said and it fixed my loss of brakes. I appreciate the info…And now I’m a certified bike mechanic expert
Was it easy for you doing it his way ? I’ve tried once before to do my brakes and it was awful I accidentally pulled on wrong lever and it went everywhere 😢
You explained it very well Unlike most people they talk so much and do very little of showing me what to do you showed us step-by-step which that's the way it's supposed to be done thank you very much
due to the fitting screw sizes of my kit, i had to use the cup at the bottom and syringe at the top. Worked perfectly and was easy to keep an eye on the level of oil in the cup. the retail shop that sold my scooter quoted me NZD 250 to do this, I bought the kit through Amazon for $20. spent $50 to get free delivery and now I've learned a new skill. The retail store did me a favor :) Thanks for your video was a great help.
First, the video was very helpful. I have an Aventon bike with Zoom breaks and I had to bleed them after riding it about 50 miles. I keep reading their are issues with these brakes. But, thank you!
Good work guys, Cameraman 5-STAR
When threads are of two different materials, plastic funnel into metal fitting, for example, it is helpful to turn it in the opposite or loosen direction applying light pressure. You will feel a slight "bump" as the threads align and then you can tighten with less concern about cross threading the plastic threads.
Best video for any brakes no just zoom. Was slow and understandable!
I was able to do it with just repeatedly topping off the hole at the master cylinder and barely flicking the lever to get the bubbles out. I went from no lever to full lever with only a dozen or so flicks. I was pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to say the least.
I just did this. It worked quite well. I did use the kits reservoir and stopper in my case. Thx
I use a vibrator (back massage with vibrate) and rubber band the vibrator to the hd hose. This helps move any bubbles to the reservoir cup on the top.
That is a good idea!
@@cyrushertech or rubber band a vibrating toothbrush to the hose..
Im crying at this comment, i can see someone using a special vibrator for this method 🤣🤣
This is crazy!!!! 😮
Excellent. Coming from the auto world this was an eye opener. Thank you.
Just got my first escooter with hydraulic brakes and need to bleed them. This is a great video. Waiting on that exact bleed kit from Amazon. Can’t wait. Thank you for the vid.
June 13 2024, thanks for the great video. I just followed your directions and BOOM screach! I go brakes again. I wish you great wealth and happiness. all the best neal sw fla.
Brake bleeds don’t do anything about screechy brakes, the best thing to do is clean your rotors or get new padd
Thanks for the video. This is the first time that I manage to fix my brakes myself. They work perfectly now. And it is thanks to this video and believe me I have seen many videos before with instructions how to bleed brakes😁
Update, after much thought i decided to do a "reverse bleed" pumping the fluid from the caliper to the lever where the fluid cup was attached as i figured the thread was not tight enough on there and letting air in. My bike only has plugs not bleed nipples so the thread sits inside the hole. Managed to get all the air out and brakes working perfect again.
Great content. I think the practical thing to do is to close the hole in the caliper after you finish replacing the oil and take out any bubble of air through the lever. Just make sure you move your lever in the four directions. Up, down, left and Right.
Great point!
What are you talking about lever? I’m new at this. I’m about to attempt to bleed the zoom brakes on my trike and I’m absolutely in terror. Lol. What lever?
@@starlessmystery6429 brake lever
Thanks for the tutorial i was about to just go back to cable ones, saved me like 50 bucks i just need a bleedkit and oil for them lol.
but personally if i get anything on my rotors i put some acetone on a towel and clean them with that, works like a charm.
Thanks for great video of Zoom Hydraulic brakes full bleeding job. I have already a knowledge to do it in my Ebike. Thanks.
Excellent video. Very easy to understand and the flow was perfect. Thank you.
Get a couple of business cards and put them on either side of the rotors. Apply the brake, then tighten the bolts. This way, that eliminates the shifting of the caliper when you are tightening them down and ensures perfect Clearance. You're welcome 😁
This is probably best way to bleed a hydraulic brake, thanks for sharing 👍
Good job,some tips that When you bleed the air at the lever end, install the Robert clamp on the hose of the syringe and close it, so that the brake fluid will not flow to the syringe and improve the efficiency of air bleed
Good tip!
when i get oil on my pads and rotors i boil the pads and rotors in a pot..It works very well..after about a minute in boiling water the oil will come off and rise to the surface then try and scoop the oil out with a spoon and just leave them in there until no more oil floats on the surface of the water..Hope this works for others :)
You just saved me a trip too the service centre! I didn’t know what too do about my breaks this video was so insightful! Thank you so much! I can’t wait too get my break bleed kit and do this on the weekend!
Glad to hear it! let us know if you have any questions about the bleeding process!
Everything went perfectly although I need too find the right bleed kit for my brakes the cup didn’t work so I used both syringes and bled the brakes that way but worked like a a charm!
You have to tap the hose cable up and down to shift bubbles! And push from bottom up always better
Thank you for this tutorial! My E-bike has this brake system. I swapped pads yesterday but the rear brake is very soft, the front brake is not as bad. I knew what the issue was but wanted to see if I could find something on YT about this brake system. Yours was the first video that I selected and the only one I'll need. I took note of the suggestion not to fill the syringe before finding the right nozzle. Because of videos like these I have been able to service my bike myself since purchasing it in May so once again, thank you!
Glad to hear the video helps out!
This is very helpful i accidently squirted all the oil out of the tube cause i didnt relies you could do that if you pressed the brake lever with the pads disassembled
Nice instructional video! I was able to bleed the rear brakes of my scooter yesterday using your method, but made MUCH more of a mess! 😅
So how u unscrew the brakes 5:37 ITS STUCK FOR ME ive tryd everything even with a screwtoll the screwtoll litterly begon to smoke
Yes I agree, it's best to close the calipers bleed port first. I would suggest plugging the levers bleed port then closing the bleed port on the caliper with the screw first. Then release the levers bleed port again and pump the levers in its current position. Then position the levers to +30 degrees and repeat. Then again at -30 degrees and repeat. Also tap the brake lines and pump the levers again. You will be surprised the amount of air released from the system by doing this. Finally position the levers to the horizontal position and close the levers bleed port with the washer and screw. I find that's the most effective way on my zoom brakes.
That's a great tip! We forgot to mention tapping the line to knock any extra bubbles out!
Also, I would suggest tying the syringe in a vertical position with a rubber band. Escaping air will rise so this helps air collect towards the plunger away from the caliper. At 1120 you left the syringe hanging down. This will cause any air in the line to flow directly back into the caliper as you pump the lever which is the opposite of what your trying to do. That's why you ran out of oil while trying to pull air into the syringe. Just an opinion though.
@@chinguyen8778 thank you for this. I’m about to do my trike so I have to do two back calipers by myself. I’ve never done this before. I’m absolutely terrified.
@@starlessmystery6429
May I suggest a couple of tips before any nuts & bolts have been removed? Although It can seem daunting and cause a little nervousness for anyone attempting a full brake bleed for the first time, your confidence WILL increase with every turn of the screwdriver.
Also, it could come in handy to take pics or short vids before each but/bolt/screw etc.
A small container to keep them organised until re-assembly is very simple and will prevent any donations to the swear jar. It is quite easy to mix them up, loose a washer/seal or worse, thread them completely using the incorrect bolt/screw.
These calliper bleed port screws have very shallow thread engagements which requiring only a few quarter turns and very little torque to be seated, perhaps only finger tight.
Finally, have plenty of rags, lint free towels or anything you don’t mind getting dirty to have handy. It may get messy. But hey, if yours is mineral oil brakes then it’s all good. I heard it’s good for the skin anyhow…
Good luck
@@chinguyen8778 thanks ❤️
Thank you. I tried a different method my first time and it was a failure and a mess. Following this was effective, simple, and very clear. Also very little mess at all!
From my failed attempt, I did get some mineral oil on the pads. Will it wear down over time or do I need to replace?
We recommend changing the brakepads to be sure, but you can sand the pads down to fix it. Mineral oil on the brake pads will cause an awful grinding sound so changing the pads entirely will resolve the issue
GRATE LESSON , THANKS
Interesting your rear brake is on the left side. Used to it being on the right. Thanks for the good video. Just recently got my ebike with hydraulic breaks but this will come in handy someday.
Thats because in uk and some other countries we have the front brake lever on the right as its usually the dominant arm/hand and left for rear, so when we brake you would use dominant hand first, i always been of the understanding brake front first, rear last. European set up are usually left front, right rear.
This worked great for my brakes. Thanks for a great video.
excellent video, very comprehensive. thanks!
Great video! I figured I watch UA-cam since couldn't sleep. And poof watched 5 minutes of this was out like light lol😂
All bs aside great video! 👍
I have the same kit. All I did was filled up each syringe. Connected both. Moved the fluid back and forth until I saw no more bubbles.
Brake lever is hard as a rock.
me too did you find a solution?
Hey, thanks for this video. I have my first sp from klever. I don't know where the oil screw is on my brakes. It looks a little bit different then yours. I made a picture but is there a way to send it to you? It would be great to know where the oil screw is.
Gotcha, so unfortunately there isn't a way to send a picture through here, but as far as the brakes and screws looking different, it is possible the brake systems on the bikes are different between models. The Zoom brakes we worked on here use the Mineral oil, but the other brands might use a different oil
@@cyrushertech I also need mineral oil. It's just the bleeding port. I can't find it. And I don't know which bleeding kit fits the lever :(
thanks guys. help me out greatly
Thank you, you saved me a nice bit of money and time!
Connecting Caliper with syringe 1st (Bottum part) is basic then upper Lever cup, and since air will go upwards add juice in the caliper to the upper cup. Thanks, i needed to know about the torx and adaptor sizes. the rest being standard, TYVM Cheers & ride Safe. To clean i prefer contact cleaner, it do not leave any oily residue as alcohol do, test it yourself you will see a cleaner end result with ether (contact cleaner) sorry for spelling errors!! ADDITION-> About using levers to center the caliper; My trick is simply to repeat that process after a certain amount of kilometrage ,loose the bolts; Squeeze the lever and tighten the bolts again , depending on milage &quality of pads+caliiiper used. i think i center them about 2-3 shot before pads need to be replaced , but i think i use pads a tad over 60% and replace em up. My safety being worth a lot more than pads in addition hydraulic brake pads price did drop significantly in the last 3-5 years . I would like to add that once again do not stick into any SUV, CAR, BUS, 10Wheeler's, 45' Trailor Van, or any GAS-POWERED PIECE of (I OWN THE STREET) shit attitude - STAY OUT OF THEM BLIND SPOT...... Not only can it hurt you bad BUT IT'S LIKLY THAT IT WILL KILL YOU . i type this to warn all for yet another cyclist was struck and losse life in my city ; 23YO so so sad . I'm so sad now about this, my home made e bike is very powerfull and fast . the most usefull driving habit i develloped with ebike riding experience is to stick right up their front wright wheel , where they can clearly see me ( when speed is a match , 40-60 KPH ....) funny fact if they insiste really to go in front at that speed... they will get the cops attention and i will go back into stealth mode , thinking about that is helping my morale! and your's also
Cheers y'all 2&3 wheeler's fanatics
Thank you. I just did mine!
Excellent job. I feel confident to do this now. Thx!
Is there a way to adjust the pad when it wears to bring closer to the rotor?
The brake pistons should be able to squeeze on to the rotor, regardless of the size/width of the pads. In other words, if the pads are worn, then the brakes should still be able to reach to the rotor. This does depend on the system and type of brakes though, as there are many different styles and types.
If there are any concerns about the brakes not being able to reach the piston, I would recommend replacing the brake pads just to be safe
This seems like a common issue and happened to me after a few months of riding, my question is how does air get in there if it is a closed and sealed system?
Hi, Nick thanks for commenting, this issue is pretty common on bikes. Yes you shouldn't have to do it a lot, however this is something that just has to be done on a bike. Air can get into the system in a variety of ways such as when being shipped, a screw just didn't get tightened all the way, etc... However this issue is very simple to fix as pictured in the video.
Those rear hub motor fat tires with spokes are the end of me. as soon at the wheel gets out of tru, they start failing bad, dont handle well under pressure, so happy I got a alloy rim
Sry for my english, can u make a vidéo to show us how to set a disc brake? At the receiption of my XF900 my back disc brake is not tighten enough ! Thank you
Are you meaning that the rear brake feels squishy or that it won't stop the bike?
@@cyrushertech Thank you for your fast return. currently, it won't stop the bike
If the bike is having issues braking after following the bleed tutorial, then it might have some issues with the rotor. If there is oil or some other material on your rotor, that will cause the brake to fail. Are there any local bike shops in the area? It might be worth the time to get the bike checked out.
And also what if just one break is loose. My left brake is loose which stops my front tire. Do I need to work on the front or back break?
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you!
OK, forgive me for a dumb question, but you have to bleed the front too, if both brake levers are squeezing too close to handles?
Yes, depending on if the brakes are both feeling squishy, you might have to bleed both sides
@@cyrushertech OK. Thank you so much !!😀
Great video! Lots of detail, I'm gonna try to do it myself, thank you!
Very informative. Thanks man!
Thanks for the walkthrough
Just bled my brakes, but they're squeaking like crazy now. Any quick fixes or tips to quiet them down?
You might want to double check the brake pads/rotors to see if any oil got on them. If so, then they will be making a heavy grinding sound when the brakes are applied. Unfortunately the only solution would be to replace the pads, but it would solve the noise issue.
Like he said, that's oil. Pads are not expensive, just replace them. Or live with the sound, which I wouldn't do.
By chance do you have the diameter of the fitting you used to bleed these? I ordered the metal tip version of the listed bleed kit, and none of the cup fittings seal to the lever bleed fitting. The one that seems close feels like it wants to cross thread, or is bottoming out against something in the lever.
would it not be easier to push the new fluid in from the bottom? and push the old stuff out into the cup
Does this work for avid juicy brakes?
It should work for any bike, as long as the brake set up matches the one in the video
Wouldn't be more efficient if you pushed oil through the syringe back to the funnel at the top? That way the gravity helps with bleeding too and you get more leverage.
As far as the brake fluid link you post. It says it is DOT oil not mineral oil. Which is it?
Gotcha, the listing must have changed since we uploaded this video. I'll double check with the mechanics and we will confirm which listing is the best current one and let you know
I checked it over and we updated the listing in the description to include both the DOT and mineral oil. The link from before had stopped supplying the mineral oil, so we had to change to a different supplier.
Can any one maybe help me. I had problems wirh my brakes last year. So I took it in to a shop. The guy fixed it. A week ago my rear brake became spongy . So I checked your guide. I bleeded it . Its working now again BUT it came to my attention that the guy at the bike shop never listened to me last year when i told him about the tiny washer. He must have not put it back. So now i dont have it anymore. I also reckon it could be the cause that let my rear break getting air . Any idea what size this washer is?
Sorry for the delay, so we unfortunately don't know the exact size for this washer, but if it is a Zoom brake, we could supply you with a replacement brake handle, line, and caliper if needed.
Great video, great references for the tools required.
Glad it was helpful!
Very easy to understand single caliper and single lever... Can you do a demonstration of bleeding a Twin HD (2 mirrored caliper) (1 hand lever) system..? like those use on recumbent trikes where the person only has 1 lever to operate both front brakes..? This is very tricky and getting bubbles out of a 3 way line needs special attention and skill.. Thanks.
Currently, we don't have any models with the specifications that you described. If we did have one though, we could make a video for you! There are probably some other videos tutorials available on this subject though.
@@cyrushertech hello.. tadpole trikes with TWIN HD (1 lever, 2 calipers) are so rare now that no one has made a video.. I called Tektro/TRP CS... they are great at stepping you thru it on the phone but not even they (the manufacturer of TWIN brake systems) has a video.. Thanks
Man this is what I’m doing tonight. Should be interesting.
@@cyrushertech hey you guys can come do my trike here in Texas. Hahaha. Please….??? 😂
@@starlessmystery6429 I use a Pulsar vibrating tooth brush banded to the hose to move air bubble up and out.. Good luck. On a dual pull hydraulic brake, it is easier to set the trike rear end up on a bucket.. then rotate the reservoir level and tap/vibrate. Twin brakes are easier on a bicycle.. Trikes are a challenge.
A simpler way to do that is to simply pull and push the syringe at the caliper until there are no bubbles on both sides.
i continued to do that but i stayed there doing that for like 10 minutes and air would still go thru the line so I stopped doing it started to get annoyed
i wish i never bought my Zoom Breaks.. Turns out they were EU model or something so the back break is on the left and the front is on the right..can i just switch the hoses? or do i need new breaks?
Yes, you should be able to switch the brake lines sides to make it more comfortable. It does take a bit more work to do, so we would recommend taking it to a local bike shop if needed
Good video. Also highlights how second class this Zoom brake is. Down there should be a more sophisticated screw, a car type closure screw with the hole, to close the hole under the brake fluid around. And not to expose the bottom hole to air etc during trying to screw back again. Zoom hydraulic brake is second class. I've changed mine to Tektro.
The fluid is held in the caliper by vacuum from the top of the system being closed first. The sealing screw works fine.
Hello, I have a question. I want to match a Shimano brake caliber with Zoom brake lever. What sort insert/olive need I for the brake hose of the shimano brake caliber?
What happens if you dont have your brakepads in? (And also not that yellow thing)
The yellow spacer is meant to hold the caliper pistons apart so that they don't push in on each other when squeezing the brake handle. If the caliper is completely empty (no pads or spacer) and the pistons squeeze out too far, then they could pop out of the caliper
@@cyrushertech Then what, could they be just put back in?
What if the syringe top comes off and spills. Is there a way to work from there or do I need to do all the steps all over again?
What is the red cap on the lever side of the system? Mine is leaking from the center hole in that red cap.
That side of the brake lever is part of the brake system, if yours is leaking, I would check to see if the bolts can tighten to get it sealed up. If the issue persists, you might need to order a new brake handle to switch out with the one that is leaking
Excellent presentation. Liked, subscribed, and rang that bell.
Thanks for the video!
I have an electric bike that operates as a bike and a moped, which also has the same setup for changing the oil for the brakes. My electric bike operates using the shimano tektro Mechanical Disc brakes. How often should I bleed my brakes if they needed to be bled out ( if any ).
It is hard to say for sure how often the brakes will need to be bled, as it does depend on vehicle type, usage, number of times previously bled, etc. What we recommend is checking the brakes before each ride and bleeding as necessary, rather than bleeding every 6 months or so for example. The Tektro brand is also a higher end system, so it may need to be bled less often.
i was trying to bleed my brakes but the funnel didn't fit so i will try to get the right one and it it all over again nice video by the way
I don’t understand is jus left brake his back brake or did he just do 2 brakes at the same time
I can't find the link for the bleed kit. Which one is it?
Here are the parts we used in this video-
Bleed Kit -
www.amazon.com/dp/B08L675V5J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Mineral Oil-
www.amazon.com/dp/B07XDSFN6S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
great video! Very informative
We purchased this Vivi 27.5” electric bike and a Tentaquil 26” electric bike for our 13 and 14 year olds. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ The Vivi was much easier to put together. With the Vivi, there was a video link to assist with assembly which made the process easier to follow (we did put the handlebars on upside down, but it was a quick and easy fix). With the Tentaquil, the assembly was not as simple to follow, but after we messaged the company for an assembly video, it was easier and they did respond quickly. The other major differences were that the Vivi has a grip throttle on the right handle (like a motorcycle) and the Tentaquil has a push throttle that you use your thumb to activate. The monitors were also different, so if you’re looking for something specific in terms of changing the bikes functions, pay attention to what the monitor offers. We were really impressed with the overall quality and functionality of both bikes, but if you’re looking for more power and an easier assembly, definitely go with the Vivi!
I just want to ask about the olive and fittings for zoom brakes. Any idea? What's the sizes
You can buy a generic kit on amazon but the length and width of the olive is 5mm by 6mm.
hello, do you know what size is the rubber seal on piston of zoom? and where could i possibly buy it
Hi, sorry we don't have that information, hopefully someone else does!
I have Zoomo ebike, can I use the same kind of oil?, thank you
Check the manual for the correct type of fluid, however if they are hydraulic most likely it is a mineral based oil which should work.
See I have the same breaks on my bike but when I wheelie and lean the bars to the right it loses all pressure but it doesn’t lose any pressure when I have the bars to the left and tips on what might be wrong?
It sounds like you have some air in the lines, you might want to consider a top bleed or a full bleed.
You have air in in your lever body, most likely
Am I nuts or was this set up on the wrong brake lever for the rear brake?
It mostly depends on which country you are in, as in the EU, they use the left-hand rear setup, but in the US they use the Right-hand rear brake setup
@@cyrushertechThanks for enlightening me. I had no idea this switched when crossing the ocean. Also, the video is made by an American, no?
@@charlienyc1 Yes, this was filmed here in Utah at our warehouse.
I’m having this problem with a zoom rear brake trike set-up. Would this kit work for that as well?
Yes if it is a zoom hydraulic brake system this kit should work for you as well.
@@cyrushertech yes it is. I just bought 2 of the kits and a bunch of oil. I have a feeling I’m going to be doing this occasionally because it is very hot and sometimes humid where I live in Texas and I think that may have contributed to the air in my back brakes.
Shimano Brake caliper piston popped out. How do I get it back in?
The best option is to push it back in, this may take some effort and possibly something like a screwdriver to push against the opposite of the brake caliper and work it in.
It happened to me and I pushed it in as much as I could with my fingers in the correct orientation. And then I used a brake block to push it in all the way.
Use brake clean spray to clean the pads. That will remove that oil.
Do zoom brakes use resin pads ?
Yes they do!
Où je peux trouver le kit
If the brake fluid is the same as car fluid, it’s a paint stripper if you don’t completely remove it with detergent or alcohol.
This brake uses mineral oil, not DOT fluid
Are these hydraulic brakes
The brakes on most of our bikes are a combination of both mechanical and hydraulic brakes, so they are both.
Usually, do new hydraulic Disc brakes (NUTT BRAND) come with brake pads already installed? Do new hydraulic brakes need to be bleed before first use ? Thanks
We can't speak for other brands other than we use which is shimano or star union but typically you only bleed brakes when you notice air in the line.
I've just installed the Nutt hydraulic brakes on my escooter and it came with pads. They were also filled with brake fluid so you don't need to bleed it but best to check for any bubbles.
This was extremely helpful! And quite relaxing too, thanks!
Great vid!..........Thanks
One more thing. I bled accordindly. Still very week brake effect. Because the main cylinder was stuck in its place, did not move. It's not always the air bubbles, but simply corrosion a bit....
Lube the outside of the piston wall with fluid and work it back and forth. There are videos on youtube about lazy pistons
shimano oil bro plz reply i have this kind of brake.
Yes, the brakes use mineral oil, we have a link in the description to the oil that we used in this video!
Mineral oil is mineral oil and baby oil is well known for use in any system requiring mineral oil.
buenisimo video genial gracias.
Which bleed kit is this?
www.amazon.com/Bleeder-Hydraulic-Bicycle-Mineral-Shimano/dp/B08NVQL3VY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ezmtb+brake+bleed+kit&qid=1677194528&sprefix=exmtb+%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-2
What model bleed kit is this version?
www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Bleeder-Bicycle-Mountain-Shimano/dp/B08C7VYMDC/ref=asc_df_B08C7VYMDC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475811738146&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5726722009574582469&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026952&hvtargid=pla-947400091858&psc=1
I can’t do it by myself, is there any place near my location to do this , I got same problem on my bike. My location 15236. Pittsburgh pa.
Bleeding brakes is a common thing for most bikes that use hydraulic brakes, most local shops can bleed your brakes.
And at the start you highlighted the position of the caliper as horizontal as possible. Down you just unscrewed the brake and just hanging around. Should be held upwards or more fixed, etc. Better to do it by two people, to control all movements.
Other goid video, many thanks!
Most bang for the buck
Cleaning the hands after removing the brakepads was a little bit hard to manage 😉