Thought I needed a full brake bleed and went through this whole video to find out that I only needed a lever bleed, which was so cleverly plugged! This channel has me stoked to start wrenching on my bike myself!
Good channel. By having actual work done by Syd (who acts as a beginner, but who is evidently no longer a beginner) the videos show how to deal with the difficulties commonly faced by a beginner.
I've done bleeding on numerous cars, motorcycles and bikes over the years. Generally on cars and motorcycles I pressurize the reservoir and bleed. But on bikes it seems most manufacturers recommended something similar to the Shimano syringe method. I've never understood the need to push through fluid form the bottom then push it back through from the top. I like the simplicity of the gravity feed method much more. Thanks for the video!
Because air bubbles want to stay at the top. On bycicle brakes there is no air space on the top of the reservoir. All air must find its way out through the top.
Yeah I can see that pushing it up from the bottom would get the bubbles from the top out. But I can't see what advantage it is to pushing it back through from the top.
Instead of Brake Cleaner spray, consider Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner. It's more compatible with seals, plastic parts, paint, etc. Thanks for this very helpful gravity feed technique!
Dropped my brake piston out of my caliper by accident and was forced to bleed the brake on my own since I wanted to go out for a ride and this method actually worked insanely well. Thanks. :D
Park tools has gotten not only lazy but out of touch of what it's like to work on the front lines of bicycle repair. While I love some of their tools and videos, I've found their tools simply aren't as well made as the tools I bought twenty years ago. I find their tools round out much faster now, don't look as good and don't feel like real professional tools like you would find in pro shops in Europe. It's frustrating that in the States they are the industry leader.
Great vid.. often an over complicated process, Iv been working of motorcycle brake systems for years and find system rebuilds a total joy.. therapeutic!!! Would just like to point out that the bleed port is located at the master cylinder (brake lever) end... the 8mm on the calliper is commonly known as the Nipple... true that !!
After waiting for my Shimano bleed kit, today I finaly did it :) I was searching for exactly your Video because I bought a used Bike and the old owner messed up a little bit to much. I was hopeing to see a different collor coming out and here we are - it was something like "babyoil". Thank you so much for your help, keep on going - best regards from germany :)
Some helpful hints in there, guys. Should speed my process along the next time I do this. So far, I've used the syringe, but this should eliminate that frustration. I'd also mention that this is a good time to check the brake lines for kinks and damage, so you can replace them if needed. Also, tapping on the brake line with a small wrench or something helps free up air pockets.
Thanks, your video has been very helpful for me as starting bike DYIer with a modern bike. I second keeping your fingers away from the spinning rotor, in a moment's notice I helped myself to a nasty gash while trying to adjust the caliper manually. I will now use your tips from that video as well!
Great video! But... please do not use an adjustable wrench. It is the worst tool ever. Instead use a proper open end wrench (6/7/8 mm depending brak caliper.) Keep up the good work! I actually learned that a gravity bleed is easy.
Yeah, especially when you're standing in a fully stocked bike workshop. I like an adjustable just fine if I'm working on ordinary stuff that nobody ever looks at, but not on my mountain bike. Especially when it's a full sized adjustable turning a 7mm.
For human safety, wearing some gloves when using brake cleaner and oils will save you a trip to the cancer ward later in life. Great video! Thanks! I've bleed hundreds of Motocross bikes and they have the same issues, you address the process very well! I wondered if there was any PFM for these small units, same process, different size. (PFM = Pure Freaking Magic). I subscribed as I'm upgrading an old 96 Diamondback...trying to upgrade to Disk and your presentation is very good.
Another great irony of brakes is that the same gravity that occasionally tries to plant my face in the dirt, makes me not need the stupid syringe! Thanks for demystifying this!
During a gravity feed, you should also flick the brake line with your finger to free up any air bubbles that are stuck in the line. The lever should be flicked too, not just pumped, but be sure not to introduce any air into the system.
Reminds me of the action of flicking a medical needle to remove air bubbles before an injection. But I don't know if that's necessary, or good, or just a movie stunt.
Thanks for your helpful video. I do a lot of my own bike maintenance, but i have never done a brake bleed. The gravity bleed was straightforward. I had tried the syringe method prior and failed. Your video gave me the confidence to get it done right. Thumbs up!
ery cool! I am a newbie at all of this and own a Zugo E-Bike that I love. However, I am a rather lare man and need to both up-size and burn in my brakes, which Syd has shown the how-to's. Thnks Syd!
This is great, you can improve even further if you’ve got two sets of hands (or some rubber bands). You basically do what you did but you build pressure with the system closed, then while holding the lever you release the fluid by briefly opening the bleed port. Close the bleed port while keeping the lever depressed. Rinse and repeat. Even quicker than gravity!
@@mauricelogarithmic4730 The most common issue is there's more air in the system than you realize and it gets stuck at various choke points along the way. Something to keep in mind is you want to create a path for air bubbles to escape with the high point being the open parts of the system. Some other things to try: * Tapping the brake line with a wrench while bleeding * Tilting the bike in the stand, or temporarily removing the caliper to create a straighter brake line. Other things to consider: You might have a small leak at either the caliper, lever, both, or where the hose connects to both. When bleeding, I like to close the bleed port just before the lever totally bottoms out, so there is less chance of air making its way back in. Good luck!
you guys skipped an important part. Before the block is inserted. Clean the caliper out of all dirt, then with a cotton swab, dip it in mineral oil, and run it around the piston to clean again, and lubricate before pushing the piston back in. By not doing this you will compromise the brake before its time, by introducing dirt into the system. This was taught to me by Shimano. Yall should update this video. Holla if yall need any advice. :)
, Do you use a cleaner first ? I would recomend to first use soap and water and a tooth brush or maybe simple green then spray with water let dry then lube the piston then compress then wipe away any excess oil then wash agin . but since my seals dont go bad in years and still compress easly I think I will consider pros vs cons of lubbing the seals .I really think the pistons shuld be upgraded , I think the stock ceramic pistons are abrasive to the seals , I upgraded my pistons and have just been cleaning the caliper with brake cleaner ive done many brake pad changes without lubing the pistons with no issue , I will just toss in some new seals every few years, its only like a ten or fifteen minute job when you know what youre doing .I would consider upgrading the plastic brake lever piston to titanium , if youre model is upgradable .
Ok, my shimano brake lever had no resistance at all. The process took about 20 minutes. Simple, I removed the top filler screw, took a eye dropper of mineral oil and filled the hole up. Plugged the hole with my finger and moved the brake back and forth a few times. Then filled the hole with mineral oil, plugged the hole, moved lever back and forth. Every time more bubbles came out. I don't know why I lost pressure but this worked well without all the tools and techniques. I did tap the brake line to coax bubbles to the top.
Similar technique I saw from a race mechanic, but let the brake fluid soak the caliper with the pistons extended as this will also lubricate the pistons. Of course being a technique on race bikes, it can be taken for granted that the fluid is not black as in this video! This works either way though: while purging, turn the caliper back and forth and side to side to release air bubbles trapped behind the pistons. He also took the entire bleed nipple off not just loosen it which makes sense without a hose and bag. This "rushes" the flow and increases the chances of removing dirt and air bubbles.
Great video guys. Please be safe and use gloves. You really don't want brake cleaner on our skin. I've damaged many nuts with crescent wrench, avoid it if you have a 7mm wrench. Closed spanner is better than open but either will work.
Great no syringe needed. Can this be done on a new empty system? Followed your guide on a cup bleed with new brakes with fluid already in and was done in a few minutes. Syd and Mack are the team!
Theoretically you could do it if the line is empty, but generally we've found it's better in that situation to do a traditional syringe bleed as it can sometimes be hard to get the fluid to start flowing if the line is empty.
I love you guys and these videos, I have ,earned so much from you both. Mackie sounds so snobby sometimes when he explains things lol, I'm sure he doesn't mean to.
Love the channel! I’m new to wrenching on Bikes and new to Mtn Biking. Please keep this content coming, it’s better than what is out there. Any chance a brake service video on SRAM is in the future? May be ready for that in a few months.
Enjoyed your video. I have a Dog Trike that was built in Germany, that has rubbing pads on the rear brakes: (4 pads). They are the MAGURA (BIG) brand. I liked your re-cap, at the end of your video, too. One additional comment however: Be very careful when using the brake cleaner. Many of these products contain Benzene, which is a known carcinogen. ..Gloves, and well ventilated. Thank you.
I am rewatching this to ensure I didn't forget any steps. It seems I didn't. I was watching another video where they bled the caliper itself. You guys didn't do that here. You replaced the fluid in the line and bled the Lever, correct? Should the brakes be significantly better after a bleed? Mine are better but not much. I also cleaned the rotor and cleaned that pads.
The fluid passes through the caliper so this method should successfully replace all the fluid. You likely won't notice a significant difference on the brake feel, it's more that you'll get less brake fade on long descents and they should be more consistent overall.
For anyone that may not know...if you spill any brake fluid on the bike, clean it off as quickly as you can. Brake fluid eats paint. (obviously the same would apply if bleeding brakes on a car)
@@sydfixesbikes yes but a lever bleed will only remove the bubbles from the lever and maybe the first 2 cm of the hose. if there's air in the caliper the syringe is probably the only way. A good method would be to do the syringe bleed the first time to remove any air and then use the method you show for every later bleed
great video but a little mention: even though its more of a joke, but please dont spray your disc brake cleaner / pure alcohol basically, all over your bike, epecially be carefull with your drivetrain, because it literally kills any oil or grease and can even damage your bearings, so keep that in mind!
Easy way to help with blocking the ceramic pistons, 2 wooden door frame edges. Plastic too, but ugh. 100 door wedges approx €6 or less. Wedge two, opposite directions until snug. Boom!
Shimano QC must be slipping, as I've used Shimano hydraulic disc brakes since they came out in the XT group back in the 1990's. I've never seen mineral oil that looked like motor oil mixed with bearing sludge. PS, using mineral oil was supposed to be easier on paint and hoses than DOT3 or DOT5 fluid.
I just prop up the bike so that all the brakelines are at an incline all the way from the caliper to the handle, then i take a vibrator and hold it against the system, starting at the bottom. Takes me 5 minutes to vibrate all the air from the bottom to the top. That way i don't spill brakefluid anywhere.
Awesome video! So much better than how I learned to do this! Thanks! One thing I learned from roadracing motorcycles and constantly bleeding brakes; when you’ve tightened up the bleed bolt but still have the reservoir cup on, give your caliper some strong taps with something like the plastic handle of a screwdriver. Then do the same at the master cylinder. This will often shake loose some stubborn bubbles and give you that satisfying extra-firm hydraulic system. 🤘
It’s easier to loosen bleed screws at caliper and the pistons will go in easier and bad fluid will come out of bleeder screw then do the process of flushing all bad fluid and replacing with new fluid which will also remove all air. Keep upper fluid cup near full. Brakes should be solid.
Not sure why it is better than a syringe. That is easy and blows bubbles up. Maybe the worry is getting crud into lever. Definitely don't retract pistons with port closed though. I did that and it burst a seal in lever making oil leak all over out of the round end. I assume it is a pressure relief valve for if fluid expands too much from heat. I was going to watch the video to see if it would be useful for my kids, but having off camera dude explain doesn't seem much better than having me explain :)
1:19 if your brakes fail to activate on the first pull it's time to get them serviced before you sail off into the wild blue of the grand canyon or slam into an automobile going 55 mph. i hear death isn't always quick or painless and there are no frequent flier miles for going off a cliff!
No need, providing you tighten it hand tight first, like they did in the video. Once, it's hand tight, take off the hose and then tighten with a spanner.
Whats the point of using the caliper spacer? Why not bleed the brakes with the wheel still on? If you bleed the brakes with the pistons fully pressed in, then put the wheel back on the pistons have to travel additional length to compress the disc, thus now you have lowered the level of brake fluid in the lever and have to re-add fluid, potentially introducing air into the system?
By using the spacer instead of leaving the wheel on you avoid any risk of contaminating the pads and rotor with brake fluid. And yes, if you put worn pads back in after a full bleed you'll likely need to top off the fluid with a quick lever bleed. Just leave the cup in place while you put your pads in and wheel back on and then finish with a lever bleed.
I did that on my bike, worked great on the front (4-pot SLX), but I failed miserably on the rear (2-pot SLX), don't know why. It got all squishy, hardly any braking even with lever to the bar. I greatly improved things by injecting a full syringe of oil the other way round (caliper=>cup), but I feel it still doesn't brake as well as it did before attempting the bleeding. (Admittedly, I dropped one rear pad into the oil pan which probably didn't help, even though I tried my best with brake cleaner, not sure the "5s rule" applies to brake pads immersed in oil)
Since I am learning so much about bike maintenance with the videos you guys make, I have started purchasing the 'specialized' bike tools to add to my general tools. My goal is to start full servicing my own mtb and road bike (and that of friends). Therefore, I am straight away looking to buy inner and outer cables in bulk, like you guys have. However, what should I look out for when buying such cables? Both my bikes have a shimano group set.
We get our boxes directly from Shimano (we're Shimano sponsored athletes) and really like the "Dura-Aceb Polymer-coated shift cable" and "SP41 Derailleur housing". They can be a bit hard to find online though. It really depends if you're willing to pay the extra for "slick" cables that have a nicer shift feel. If so, make sure you look for "ultra-slick" or "polymer-coated" in the title.
To idiot proof brake bleeding I find it’s best to use fluid of a different colour to the fluid already in the brakes. For example Citroen hydraulic mineral oil is green. I think (from memory) Shimano’s red, while there’s others that are blue or clear
I tried this technique, but the fluid just dripped super slow out the bottom, even after opening the bleeder screw more. Used the plunger-worked perfectly, real easy, and no plastic bag needed to catch oil. Any ideas in why this technique didn't work for me?
Hmm, could maybe try the syringe pushing fluid up through the bleed nipple/caliper - might free up some debris stuck in the bleed nipple. Or if the bike had the wrong fluid (too thick) or it's super duper dirty? Sounds like you took the plunger OUT, not left it in right? Hope that helps, good luck!
Hi, Do not push directly on the ceramic pistons they can crack, leave the old pads inserted and push on them, the support surface is superior and not direct
Definitely going to do this on mine soon. I have had my bike for only 5 months, but I want to do this at least every 6 months just to keep the brakes at 100%
If you're riding in especially dirty or dusty conditions, it's worth doing more regularly, but if not, you're probably okay to do it once a year as long as you occasionally do a lever bleed to keep them feeling good!
I just did this to my front brake. I followed everything step by step. Now I have no pressure. I bled the lever twice as well. what could it be? Thanks
I'm assuming you have Shimano brakes, right? If so, sounds like you might have air somewhere in the system. I would either try this method again making sure to never let the funnel run out of fluid or try a traditional syringe bleed (where you push fluid up into the funnel from the brake caliper using a syringe.
If this video was helpful and saved you time and/or money, consider supporting the channel by hitting the "Thanks" button above to leave a tip.
Pushing in the pad will be easier if you loosen the upper screw to allow fluid to leave. Or do the second phase first.
Blep bleep blob
Thought I needed a full brake bleed and went through this whole video to find out that I only needed a lever bleed, which was so cleverly plugged! This channel has me stoked to start wrenching on my bike myself!
Interesting...what is a lever bleed?
@@saulfernandez8876 Screw in the cup (with mineral oil inside it) into your lever, then press your lever till theres no more air bubbles coming out
@@Ozqu but how does air even get into the brake system in the first place?
@@Bxin718 Faulty seals, loose screws and when your brake pads wear down, you need more fluid to fill in the void it creates
@@Bxin718Removing your real wheel.
I recommend watching the park tool video on cleaning and lubing the pistons before you push them in
Good channel. By having actual work done by Syd (who acts as a beginner, but who is evidently no longer a beginner) the videos show how to deal with the difficulties commonly faced by a beginner.
I've done bleeding on numerous cars, motorcycles and bikes over the years. Generally on cars and motorcycles I pressurize the reservoir and bleed. But on bikes it seems most manufacturers recommended something similar to the Shimano syringe method. I've never understood the need to push through fluid form the bottom then push it back through from the top. I like the simplicity of the gravity feed method much more. Thanks for the video!
Because air bubbles want to stay at the top. On bycicle brakes there is no air space on the top of the reservoir. All air must find its way out through the top.
Yeah I can see that pushing it up from the bottom would get the bubbles from the top out. But I can't see what advantage it is to pushing it back through from the top.
Instead of Brake Cleaner spray, consider Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner. It's more compatible with seals, plastic parts, paint, etc. Thanks for this very helpful gravity feed technique!
Just use isopropyl alcohol. It is always around in bathroom cabinets.
These are the best how-to videos -- thorough yet fun and simple.
Pro Tip: Leave the cup on as you remount the tire, carefully so that your last pump will have access to fluid and even maybe a few bubbles.
great tip btw
Dropped my brake piston out of my caliper by accident and was forced to bleed the brake on my own since I wanted to go out for a ride and this method actually worked insanely well. Thanks. :D
I love this because someone is explaining what's going wrong rather than some genius saying just do xyz and you're done!
The presenter, sydfixesbikes, is making me a DIY bike mechanic of some sort. Thanks, now I can bleed my own brakes.
This is BY FAR the best bike repair/maintenance channel on UA-cam. I feel like I’m learning right alongside Syd. Better than Park Tooks as well...
It’s cool because it’s real. Most Park or maintenance instructional videos make it look so easy every time and it never is haha
Park tools has gotten not only lazy but out of touch of what it's like to work on the front lines of bicycle repair. While I love some of their tools and videos, I've found their tools simply aren't as well made as the tools I bought twenty years ago. I find their tools round out much faster now, don't look as good and don't feel like real professional tools like you would find in pro shops in Europe. It's frustrating that in the States they are the industry leader.
@@biggaywizard interesting. So what are some professional tool brands found in Europe?
Just gave this a go. First time bleeding my brakes. Worked a charm. Thank you.
Great vid.. often an over complicated process, Iv been working of motorcycle brake systems for years and find system rebuilds a total joy.. therapeutic!!!
Would just like to point out that the bleed port is located at the master cylinder (brake lever) end... the 8mm on the calliper is commonly known as the Nipple... true that !!
Its called a nipple for the same reason a grease nipple is called a nipple. Its because.......... it looks like, well,...... a nipple.
After waiting for my Shimano bleed kit, today I finaly did it :) I was searching for exactly your Video because I bought a used Bike and the old owner messed up a little bit to much. I was hopeing to see a different collor coming out and here we are - it was something like "babyoil". Thank you so much for your help, keep on going - best regards from germany :)
Great. This is basically how I bled the brakes on my cars for 40 years or so.
Thank you for this instruction. This is the best most simple one that I've seen!! I've just watched 3 or 4 of them this one is by far the best!
Some helpful hints in there, guys. Should speed my process along the next time I do this. So far, I've used the syringe, but this should eliminate that frustration. I'd also mention that this is a good time to check the brake lines for kinks and damage, so you can replace them if needed. Also, tapping on the brake line with a small wrench or something helps free up air pockets.
The syringe method looks a lot easy than this if you ask me
Thanks, your video has been very helpful for me as starting bike DYIer with a modern bike. I second keeping your fingers away from the spinning rotor, in a moment's notice I helped myself to a nasty gash while trying to adjust the caliper manually. I will now use your tips from that video as well!
Great video!
But... please do not use an adjustable wrench. It is the worst tool ever. Instead use a proper open end wrench (6/7/8 mm depending brak caliper.)
Keep up the good work! I actually learned that a gravity bleed is easy.
No kidding!
If it can't be fixed with an adjustable spanner and a hammer, it can't be fixed.
@@joekitchell8509
Sure it can! Wrap it in Gorilla tape!
a high quality adjustable wrench is a fantastic tool
Yeah, especially when you're standing in a fully stocked bike workshop. I like an adjustable just fine if I'm working on ordinary stuff that nobody ever looks at, but not on my mountain bike. Especially when it's a full sized adjustable turning a 7mm.
Thanks Syd..... Your video is by far the best I've seen. Did my first bleed this morning and worked a treat. Cheers all the way from Australia 🐨
For human safety, wearing some gloves when using brake cleaner and oils will save you a trip to the cancer ward later in life. Great video! Thanks! I've bleed hundreds of Motocross bikes and they have the same issues, you address the process very well! I wondered if there was any PFM for these small units, same process, different size. (PFM = Pure Freaking Magic). I subscribed as I'm upgrading an old 96 Diamondback...trying to upgrade to Disk and your presentation is very good.
Another great irony of brakes is that the same gravity that occasionally tries to plant my face in the dirt, makes me not need the stupid syringe! Thanks for demystifying this!
During a gravity feed, you should also flick the brake line with your finger to free up any air bubbles that are stuck in the line. The lever should be flicked too, not just pumped, but be sure not to introduce any air into the system.
Reminds me of the action of flicking a medical needle to remove air bubbles before an injection. But I don't know if that's necessary, or good, or just a movie stunt.
Thanks for your helpful video. I do a lot of my own bike maintenance, but i have never done a brake bleed. The gravity bleed was straightforward. I had tried the syringe method prior and failed. Your video gave me the confidence to get it done right. Thumbs up!
put in some old brake pads and then use a screwdriver to push the pistons back
ery cool! I am a newbie at all of this and own a Zugo E-Bike that I love. However, I am a rather lare man and need to both up-size and burn in my brakes, which Syd has shown the how-to's. Thnks Syd!
This is great, you can improve even further if you’ve got two sets of hands (or some rubber bands).
You basically do what you did but you build pressure with the system closed, then while holding the lever you release the fluid by briefly opening the bleed port. Close the bleed port while keeping the lever depressed.
Rinse and repeat. Even quicker than gravity!
That's how I bleed motorcycle (non-ABS) brakes.
I did this as well but the little air bubbles kept on coming, i really dont know why ( even after 2 full funnels)
@@mauricelogarithmic4730 The most common issue is there's more air in the system than you realize and it gets stuck at various choke points along the way. Something to keep in mind is you want to create a path for air bubbles to escape with the high point being the open parts of the system.
Some other things to try:
* Tapping the brake line with a wrench while bleeding
* Tilting the bike in the stand, or temporarily removing the caliper to create a straighter brake line.
Other things to consider:
You might have a small leak at either the caliper, lever, both, or where the hose connects to both.
When bleeding, I like to close the bleed port just before the lever totally bottoms out, so there is less chance of air making its way back in.
Good luck!
Loving your content guys! Any chance to get a 101 maintenance? Like, the basics after a ride.
Thanks so much for posting this - it works exactly as shown - and makes things MUCH simpler!
you guys skipped an important part. Before the block is inserted. Clean the caliper out of all dirt, then with a cotton swab, dip it in mineral oil, and run it around the piston to clean again, and lubricate before pushing the piston back in. By not doing this you will compromise the brake before its time, by introducing dirt into the system. This was taught to me by Shimano. Yall should update this video. Holla if yall need any advice. :)
Don’t put mineral oil anywhere near your brake pads … that’s a fabulous way to ruin your pads and potentially your discs
, Do you use a cleaner first ? I would recomend to first use soap and water and a tooth brush or maybe simple green then spray with water let dry then lube the piston then compress then wipe away any excess oil then wash agin . but since my seals dont go bad in years and still compress easly I think I will consider pros vs cons of lubbing the seals .I really think the pistons shuld be upgraded , I think the stock ceramic pistons are abrasive to the seals , I upgraded my pistons and have just been cleaning the caliper with brake cleaner ive done many brake pad changes without lubing the pistons with no issue , I will just toss in some new seals every few years, its only like a ten or fifteen minute job when you know what youre doing .I would consider upgrading the plastic brake lever piston to titanium , if youre model is upgradable .
That funnel is just a tiny version of a Lisle funnel that is used to burp coolant systems in automobiles. Clever!
Ok, my shimano brake lever had no resistance at all. The process took about 20 minutes. Simple, I removed the top filler screw, took a eye dropper of mineral oil and filled the hole up. Plugged the hole with my finger and moved the brake back and forth a few times. Then filled the hole with mineral oil, plugged the hole, moved lever back and forth. Every time more bubbles came out. I don't know why I lost pressure but this worked well without all the tools and techniques. I did tap the brake line to coax bubbles to the top.
I definitely have to pump my a couple of times before I can get a good pull on it!!
Literally - ironically, intense and the actual heck insane!
Similar technique I saw from a race mechanic, but let the brake fluid soak the caliper with the pistons extended as this will also lubricate the pistons. Of course being a technique on race bikes, it can be taken for granted that the fluid is not black as in this video! This works either way though: while purging, turn the caliper back and forth and side to side to release air bubbles trapped behind the pistons. He also took the entire bleed nipple off not just loosen it which makes sense without a hose and bag. This "rushes" the flow and increases the chances of removing dirt and air bubbles.
Great video guys.
Please be safe and use gloves. You really don't want brake cleaner on our skin. I've damaged many nuts with crescent wrench, avoid it if you have a 7mm wrench. Closed spanner is better than open but either will work.
Great no syringe needed. Can this be done on a new empty system? Followed your guide on a cup bleed with new brakes with fluid already in and was done in a few minutes. Syd and Mack are the team!
Theoretically you could do it if the line is empty, but generally we've found it's better in that situation to do a traditional syringe bleed as it can sometimes be hard to get the fluid to start flowing if the line is empty.
Always wear safety glasses and gloves when working with brake fluid, even mineral oil though it's less corrosive than DOT fluid.
Try using a pencil instead of a paint marker. Easy to mark and easy to remove or if you leave the mark on it does not stand out.
Should've removed the front wheel too. Any bit of mineral oil that gets on the front brake rotors will cause it to lose power and squeal.
After a few unsuccessful attempts to bleed my XT brakes, I finally did it after following this method. Thanks guys!
I love you guys and these videos, I have ,earned so much from you both. Mackie sounds so snobby sometimes when he explains things lol, I'm sure he doesn't mean to.
Love your channel. Its like a free online class🤗👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Love the channel! I’m new to wrenching on Bikes and new to Mtn Biking. Please keep this content coming, it’s better than what is out there. Any chance a brake service video on SRAM is in the future? May be ready for that in a few months.
Enjoyed your video. I have a Dog Trike that was built in Germany, that has rubbing pads on the rear brakes: (4 pads). They are the MAGURA (BIG) brand. I liked your re-cap, at the end of your video, too. One additional comment however: Be very careful when using the brake cleaner. Many of these products contain Benzene, which is a known carcinogen. ..Gloves, and well ventilated. Thank you.
The 1 minute summary is 😩🔥😍😍
Im a DIY car mechanic and this is basically how u bleed/change brake fluid in a car.
Thx! Learned a lot. Didn’t know the spring had a left and right...ooops.
Not all of them do, but it's worth confirming before you reinstall the pads.
Great video so the brakes are self adjusting as they wear like a car ?
I am rewatching this to ensure I didn't forget any steps. It seems I didn't. I was watching another video where they bled the caliper itself. You guys didn't do that here. You replaced the fluid in the line and bled the Lever, correct?
Should the brakes be significantly better after a bleed? Mine are better but not much. I also cleaned the rotor and cleaned that pads.
The fluid passes through the caliper so this method should successfully replace all the fluid. You likely won't notice a significant difference on the brake feel, it's more that you'll get less brake fade on long descents and they should be more consistent overall.
Awesome and helpful video! You two are doing a great thing!
For anyone that may not know...if you spill any brake fluid on the bike, clean it off as quickly as you can. Brake fluid eats paint. (obviously the same would apply if bleeding brakes on a car)
Shimano uses mineral oil. It won't hurt paint.
@@jasonhendrickson2289 Good to know
Thank you a lot, been waiting for it. I found usefull to get out bubbles faster to push up new fluid with a syringe up through the caliper.
Assuming you're just trying to get some bubbles out, you can just do a lever bleed which is much easier!
@@sydfixesbikes yes but a lever bleed will only remove the bubbles from the lever and maybe the first 2 cm of the hose. if there's air in the caliper the syringe is probably the only way. A good method would be to do the syringe bleed the first time to remove any air and then use the method you show for every later bleed
The method we showed (gravity bleed) will get bubbles out anywhere in the line.
@@Andrea-qg5yk i did last wednesday the lever bleed method. Works flawlessly on shimano breaks
@@sydfixesbikes bottom-to-top syringe bleed seems to have better physical basis, as you're not working against the air bubbles' buoyancy.
great video but a little mention: even though its more of a joke, but please dont spray your disc brake cleaner / pure alcohol basically, all over your bike, epecially be carefull with your drivetrain, because it literally kills any oil or grease and can even damage your bearings, so keep that in mind!
Easy way to help with blocking the ceramic pistons, 2 wooden door frame edges. Plastic too, but ugh. 100 door wedges approx €6 or less. Wedge two, opposite directions until snug. Boom!
Shimano QC must be slipping, as I've used Shimano hydraulic disc brakes since they came out in the XT group back in the 1990's.
I've never seen mineral oil that looked like motor oil mixed with bearing sludge.
PS, using mineral oil was supposed to be easier on paint and hoses than DOT3 or DOT5 fluid.
I just prop up the bike so that all the brakelines are at an incline all the way from the caliper to the handle, then i take a vibrator and hold it against the system, starting at the bottom.
Takes me 5 minutes to vibrate all the air from the bottom to the top.
That way i don't spill brakefluid anywhere.
this is how ppl do it on cars so it was very surprising for me to see that people push new fluid from the caliper and up into the lever lol
Awesome video! So much better than how I learned to do this! Thanks!
One thing I learned from roadracing motorcycles and constantly bleeding brakes; when you’ve tightened up the bleed bolt but still have the reservoir cup on, give your caliper some strong taps with something like the plastic handle of a screwdriver. Then do the same at the master cylinder. This will often shake loose some stubborn bubbles and give you that satisfying extra-firm hydraulic system. 🤘
Good tip!
It’s easier to loosen bleed screws at caliper and the pistons will go in easier and bad fluid will come out of bleeder screw then do the process of flushing all bad fluid and replacing with new fluid which will also remove all air. Keep upper fluid cup near full. Brakes should be solid.
Not sure why it is better than a syringe. That is easy and blows bubbles up. Maybe the worry is getting crud into lever. Definitely don't retract pistons with port closed though. I did that and it burst a seal in lever making oil leak all over out of the round end. I assume it is a pressure relief valve for if fluid expands too much from heat. I was going to watch the video to see if it would be useful for my kids, but having off camera dude explain doesn't seem much better than having me explain :)
Careful I snapped those guide pins on my sram code r brakes pushing the pistons in with plastic tire lever. They fragile I barely pryed on them.
Only a true bike mechanic would taste something off of the down to to see what it is respect
Great..! As a brake agnostic user, show us SRAM sometime as well! And yes, Shimano is definitely easier!
What do you do with the used brake fluid? I suppose it is not very ecological or environment friendly to put it with the garbage?
I'm starting to think disc brakes are a pain in the ass which has me thinking of just opting for a new bike with rim brakes.
Great job
Awesome, I've never been this excited to work on my bikes!
Maybe is better to use plastic bottle for old oil?
1:19 if your brakes fail to activate on the first pull it's time to get them serviced before you sail off into the wild blue of the grand canyon or slam into an automobile going 55 mph. i hear death isn't always quick or painless and there are no frequent flier miles for going off a cliff!
I would think you want to tighten the bleed port while the hose is still attached. Am I wrong?
No need, providing you tighten it hand tight first, like they did in the video. Once, it's hand tight, take off the hose and then tighten with a spanner.
Whats the point of using the caliper spacer? Why not bleed the brakes with the wheel still on? If you bleed the brakes with the pistons fully pressed in, then put the wheel back on the pistons have to travel additional length to compress the disc, thus now you have lowered the level of brake fluid in the lever and have to re-add fluid, potentially introducing air into the system?
By using the spacer instead of leaving the wheel on you avoid any risk of contaminating the pads and rotor with brake fluid. And yes, if you put worn pads back in after a full bleed you'll likely need to top off the fluid with a quick lever bleed. Just leave the cup in place while you put your pads in and wheel back on and then finish with a lever bleed.
When you pump the lever after the bleed to push the pistons out, should you top up the fluid or is that not an issue?
You can just leave the cup on there when you pump up the brake which will do a lever bleed and fill any extra space with fluid.
What's the 'additional lever bleed' then?
Where is the hose and clip holding the bag coming from? Great video!
The hose is included with the bleed kit and we just used tape to hold the bag. A clip is a much better idea!
very helpful video thanks
I did that on my bike, worked great on the front (4-pot SLX), but I failed miserably on the rear (2-pot SLX), don't know why. It got all squishy, hardly any braking even with lever to the bar.
I greatly improved things by injecting a full syringe of oil the other way round (caliper=>cup), but I feel it still doesn't brake as well as it did before attempting the bleeding.
(Admittedly, I dropped one rear pad into the oil pan which probably didn't help, even though I tried my best with brake cleaner, not sure the "5s rule" applies to brake pads immersed in oil)
Yeah, that brake pad needs replacing, no matter how fast you were pulling it out.
Since I am learning so much about bike maintenance with the videos you guys make, I have started purchasing the 'specialized' bike tools to add to my general tools. My goal is to start full servicing my own mtb and road bike (and that of friends). Therefore, I am straight away looking to buy inner and outer cables in bulk, like you guys have. However, what should I look out for when buying such cables? Both my bikes have a shimano group set.
We get our boxes directly from Shimano (we're Shimano sponsored athletes) and really like the "Dura-Aceb Polymer-coated shift cable" and "SP41 Derailleur housing". They can be a bit hard to find online though. It really depends if you're willing to pay the extra for "slick" cables that have a nicer shift feel. If so, make sure you look for "ultra-slick" or "polymer-coated" in the title.
Great video guys! This process is more involved than I initially thought. Also I have to buy the kit too. 🙂
It pays for itself pretty quickly! And your brakes will be so happy 😁
That’s froogin’ nuts!
hahaha i lost it when she went for it with no hesitation
If i use motorbike oil instead of shimano mineral oil, would that be a problem??.And will that cause problem in my caliper?? Plz let me know plz
Gravity bleed works for car brakes too. Just takes longer.
If my dog was magically turned into a human that would be her 😂
To idiot proof brake bleeding I find it’s best to use fluid of a different colour to the fluid already in the brakes. For example Citroen hydraulic mineral oil is green. I think (from memory) Shimano’s red, while there’s others that are blue or clear
Citroën all the way.. 1L is cheaper than 100ml shimano oil ✌️
Is that a metric crescent wrench?
Can this be done without removing the brake pads? All it needs is some oil in the cables right?
Sounds like you might just need a lever bleed, not a full bleed. ua-cam.com/video/EBvbwvLEwio/v-deo.html
Excellent work guys
I tried this technique, but the fluid just dripped super slow out the bottom, even after opening the bleeder screw more. Used the plunger-worked perfectly, real easy, and no plastic bag needed to catch oil. Any ideas in why this technique didn't work for me?
Hmm, could maybe try the syringe pushing fluid up through the bleed nipple/caliper - might free up some debris stuck in the bleed nipple. Or if the bike had the wrong fluid (too thick) or it's super duper dirty? Sounds like you took the plunger OUT, not left it in right? Hope that helps, good luck!
I'm trying this tomorrow morning. If something goes wrong, it's ALL YOUR FAULT 😡 K wish me luck byyeeee
Perfect, nice way to do it
Great video. Dump the brake cleaner and use a contact cleaner instead. Its much kinder to paint and plastics.
Hi, Do not push directly on the ceramic pistons they can crack, leave the old pads inserted and push on them, the support surface is superior and not direct
So, the socks and sandals are a real thing ? :D Cool videos, I like the format, keep it up!
Always keeping it classy around here 😉
Definitely going to do this on mine soon. I have had my bike for only 5 months, but I want to do this at least every 6 months just to keep the brakes at 100%
If you're riding in especially dirty or dusty conditions, it's worth doing more regularly, but if not, you're probably okay to do it once a year as long as you occasionally do a lever bleed to keep them feeling good!
@@sydfixesbikes We have been getting rain here in Oklahoma, but the trails dry fairly quick and get dusty.
I just did this to my front brake. I followed everything step by step. Now I have no pressure. I bled the lever twice as well.
what could it be?
Thanks
I'm assuming you have Shimano brakes, right? If so, sounds like you might have air somewhere in the system. I would either try this method again making sure to never let the funnel run out of fluid or try a traditional syringe bleed (where you push fluid up into the funnel from the brake caliper using a syringe.
Some of the auto UA-camrs have a deep musical Da Da they play when using brake fluid. South Main Auto Repair ….
It works! My brakes are great again. Thank you!
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