How to Bleed Hydraulic Brakes - Shimano® Drop Bar Levers
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- This video will go over how to bleed Shimano® hydraulic disc brakes featuring drop bar levers using the Park Tool BKM-1 Brake Bleed Kit.
Questions or comments? Leave them below!
For Shimano® Hydraulic disc brakes with flat bar levers, see: • How to Bleed Hydraulic...
See all our disc brake videos in our Disc Brakes Repair Help playlist ▶︎ • Repair Help: Disc Brakes
Video contents:
00:00 Preliminary Info
02:00 Bicycle Prep
02:59 Bleed Kit Prep
03:47 Bleed
07:04 Bleed Kit Prep - Spent Fluid Container
07:40 Bleed
09:18 Burp the Brake
10:10 Reset Bicycle
10:57 Clean Kit
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BKM-1 Hydraulic Brake Kit - Mineral - www.parktool.com/product/hydr...
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This is the only bleeding video that explains the angle's for the lever for bleeding and burping thank you so much.👍
This is an excellent tutorial, With it I have managed to bleed my grx brakes perfectly and only spilled a little mineral oil on the carpet. Your tutorials have allowed me to complete my very own bike build from scratch! Kudos
I watched several clips about this theme and then worked my way through bleeding - but this tutorial was the real helpful one to acheive a truly satisfiying result!
It is a great video, thank you. I'm finding this job much more difficult on the rear brakes because the length of routing of the hose means there are so many places where air pockets can collect.
This is a very good instructional video. One of the few that very clearly show all the steps as explained in Shimano's dealer manuals.
Once you get the hang of it, as with everything, it's pretty straightforward.
Thanks Calvin, I'm a competent home mechanic but bleeding brakes had always been my achilkes heel. You're video is fantastic and the instructions are really clear and easy to follow. Set up a set of GRX brakes and they're working perfectly. 👌
Great tutorial. My only criticism is that it's fairly formulaic and doesn't focus on some of the "why's" that people may miss. If people are to remember these instructions better, it's much easier to with the help of logic opposed to a check list. That being said, it would make the video a bit longer so I can understand why it has been written a tad shorter.
Thanks. That is some good feedback.
Why is always good, but when you're frustrated and want a quick how to answer, a quick video is also very helpful. Maybe a separate section at the start or the end on the theory? We wouldn't want theory and rambling in the middle of the steps.
Great guide. Was able to perform my first successful hydraulic brake bleeds.
The Best and most Clear bleeding video !!!
Wow, this is the most detailed instructions I have seen
Thanks a lot. Nice to be able to work on my bike myself And give my friends at the shop a little break during this crazy busy year
Finally some good drip bar brake bleed videos. I have been looking for a good video forever. Love you guys.
Agreed. Many bleed videos for flat bar brakes but many fewer on road brakes. Not altogether different, but enough.
This is such a clear video, I did a first time bleed after some disappointing results from a bike shop and it went really well!
The bittersweet irony...
Great easy to follow video. I had watched other videos but non of them covered the need to burp the system by moving the bars. Once I did this procedure air bubbles appeared immediately and after a few pumps my front brake was as sharp as the day I purchased it. Thanks 😊
I agree 100%. Bleeding road disc brakes can be fucking frustrating. The explanation and orientation of the fluid reservoir shown in this video is literally the essence to it. And whilst some other videos also tell you to rotate the bike while doing it, none of them explain why and in which angles.
Very helpful video with clear instructions. First time bleeding the breaks and the breaks work again! Thanks
Thanks team. Great reference video.
Thanks guys - perfect vid as always. Definitely helped me to get the job done right!!
Thanks great awesome guide I'd always just been doing gravity bleeds and I decided to bite the bullet and this really helped get a little bit firmer lever
Perfect tutorial. Based on this, you can bleed the brake flawlessly!
Such great instruction. Worked perfect for me
Excellent presentation, Calvin. Thanks!
Amazing. Thanks. Trp hylex please
Sensacional... vídeo perfeito...🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Awesome video. A great help. Cheers
Thank you Calvin
Hey, Calvin! You should include instructions on how to open the BKM-1.2 case! Sure, I figured it out... Eventually.
Great video!
salamat boss.
Thanks for the explanations. Actually I would have expected that, at the end of the operation, the brake lever stroke would have been shorter than shown in the video
same here
Me too! That’s the reason that I was searching how to do a bleed in the first place because my levers nearly touch my handlebars, which I’m not used to coming from mechanical brakes
There's probably a lever reach screw btw, you may also want to play with that?
Nice
I want to add a note for anyone adding oil for the first time into an entirely dry setup, as in cases where calipers and the shifter ship separately: make sure there's enough oil in the cup, and you're not going to let gravity draw out additional air in the lines as the video demonstrates, but you'll instead use the syringe to repeatedly draw air out from the bottom, somewhat like SRAM's method for their dual-syringe setup, which here would be great. (Again, assuming an entirely dry system vs a system with oil and a minuscule amount of air.) Keep drawing out the air from the bottom, and repeat, repeat, repeat until the lever feel is firm. Don't overdraw from the cup, so make sure you've got almost an entirely full syringe and start with maybe 1/3 of the top cup.
Very useful video, thanks. I have the GRX brakes but also with in-line sub levers fitted. What would be different about the process to take these into account?
Andrew: A great question with no one answering yet. Damn....
Can you make a Campagnlo disc bleed video?
This was great! Thanks! Can you also make a video for installing and bleeding a Shimano GRX sub brake installation?
One minute in and I want my rim brakes back
I would opt for mechanical disc brakes but on the most higher end bikes this is not an option anymore. I dread this procedures.
Hi there PT, thanks for the tutorial. As it seems to be way more complicated than on flat bar brake levers (e. g. Shimanos MTB lines), how picky has one to respect these tilting angles?
As far as I understand, the various tilting help move any “trapped” air bubbles and fill oil pockets in the hydraulic system. But how exact do you have to be?
I in general just do a solid 50 to 100 ml bottom to top flush to just push out all residual air. In 95% of all bleedings in our shop, this is the solution in “the first go”.
But if you have the time to comment on this approach, I’d glad to learn sth. new/better.
Thank you. And keep up the excellent work.
Probably good enough Vs perfection. I can see how tilting the bike like this back and forth with an open oil funnel on top would often end badly.
Thanks for this video! The way you have the bike rotated for bleeding rear brakes @2:08---is it okay to do that with a carbon bike, or will the torque on the seat post and seat tube be too much?
Totally fine to do with a carbon bike. This is a carbon bike in the video. A rider will put hundreds of times more strain on a frame and post than this.
6:02 - you can clrearly see the air bubble inside the syringe hose - surely you want to try and avoid that?
Any tips about changing angle for integrated handlebars? Guess have to angle the whole bike.
Tilting the bike is the only way.
Seems preferable vs messing with the bar rotation a ton even on non-integrated bars, IMO.
Hello Calvin, thx for this helpful video. When pressuring the handle (video 7:55 min) air bubbles keep coming out of the brake caliper. I had to fill the funnel 3 times. Is this normal? For info: bleedin g the rear brake ST-R8050.
I prefer the shortest Free Stroke for max response when I brake. Prior to bleeding, should the Free Stroke screw be backed out so that if a short stroke needs adjusting after bleeding, the screw is in position to allow that adjustment? It would be similar to screwing in the barrel adjuster prior to replacing a mechanical brake cable to allow slack to be tightened.
The answer is yes..... But Shimano is pretty honest about the free stroke screw offering minimal effects on the stroke.
Please let me know if the stem and handle bar are integrated, it cannot be rotated. Any tips on this situation? Thank you.
Hi I'm bleeding a brand new set of brakes/levers so I assume the "dirty fluid removal" step isn't required after 6:20? If so what would be the next stage after that? Would I just close bleed port on calliper & removal syringe and then do the burping technique? Or do I need to attach something calliper end again ?
If you are working on a new bike there is no need to get rid of the fluid so you can move to the next step of tilting the lever and continue the process.
Hi Park Tool,
your tutorials are amazing as always and they've helped my partner and myself a lot. May I humbly ask for your advice on this particular issue?
The Shimano hydraulic disc brakes on my partner's roadbike have lost their bite, so he decided to bleed them -- bought the correct shimano fluid and kit, opened the plastic screw on the handle and, with the funnel, tried to top off the liquid. He also pumped the brakes to see if any bubbles would come out, but nada.
So the brakes are still spongy (the pads are still good, we checked those).
Unfortunately, the poor soul wasn't aware that the torque for said plastic screw was like 1Nm, so he pulled it tight when putting it back in - and now it's stuck. The Allen wrench still grips, but it won't budge.
Got any advice?
Replacement screws are hard to come by these days and apparently this is a common mishap.
Should we just take it to the shop or is this something we can tackle on our own?
Thank you in advance. Your videos are amazing!
You can try this on your own, and take it in if it does not work. Getting the screw out is going to be the issue. Use a new key and push down on it as your turn to loosen. These are typically steel, check that with a magnet. If there is a large shop they may have a "bone yard", with scavenged parts. See if you can find one. If the brakes are spongy, the bubble may be at the caliper on in the line. Worse case is you need a new lever, which can be done.
@@parktool Thank you so much. You guys are just incredible!
The bike industry really needs to study how the automotive industry does brake bleeding. This is incredibly complicated.
Yeah, this process is mental. And good luck being 100% confident that you did it correctly when you do this the first time.
Wouldn't you want to clean the rear caliper BEFORE installing the bleed nipple cap? In this video it was installed and you can clearly see mineral oil all over the bleed nipple. That could make it's way back to the pads and contaminate them.
Yes, one new trick I learned last is to insert a piece of twisted tissue paper into the bleed nipple to absorb all the hydraulic fluid left in there.
Why do you first bleed from the calliper site and then proceed to bleed threw the lever, why not the opposite way? Then one could dispose the old mineral oil in the plastic bag, before bleeding a fresh one from the bottom. Doesn't it make more sense? Otherwise you mix the old mineral oil with a fresh one.
They are following manufacturer's (Shimano) instructions. And since brakes are the most important component I'd say sticking with what people who designed them say is a good idea. You can completely flush from the calliper too, albeit it's a bit more annoying.
"following manufacturer's instructions" is not generally very satisfying answer to "why?"
@@raneksi he asked why and the answer is because that's what manufacturer (i.e. people who know their product best) recommends. Are you special?
Bleeding with fluid flow from bottom to top is more likely to move bubbles out since gravity pulls the liquid down and bubbles move to the top!
@@GuyZoghbythat's what I was gonna say as well
I did a full gravity bleed and the oil came out clean. Immediately afterwards, I syringed fluid up into the lever from the caliper and it was filthy. It seems the gravity bleed didn't fully flush the system. Shimano 105 R7020 (pretty much the same as shown in this video)
Hmmm... Confusing stuff.
For the 45 deg angle and burp position, what if you have a one-piece cockpit? you rotate the entire bike?
That's the only way I think. Also, I don't think most bike shops do the tilting, it's probably good enough without the tilts most of the time. You can also do the SRAM way I think, which is pulling oil from below with the syringe. Back and forth a couple of times.
I’m swapping my rear calliper from BR-R7070 to BR-R7170, keeping the same internally routed rear brake hose ... Question: I know I will need to change the olive, but do I need to change the insert as well? Also assuming this swap will likely require a brake bleed after.
The part with quickly opening and closing the bleed nipple is somehow giving me grief. At first it failed to repump completely, so I started from scratch and pushed the fluid up through the caliper again. Quite a lot of bubbles came out, so air somehow got in. But the quick open and close part was still weird. There was definitely fluid in the funnel and in the hose, but after the pressure was lost it was still not possible to repump it. Except, somehow some way it worked - I left it alone and it worked. I thought it was maybe the plunger I put in the funnel, and I repeated it three times just to see which step caused it, but it was mostly random to me. The lever feels firm now, so I decided to leave it alone. But I still wonder. I will see with the second lever.
Hi. At 08:20 you’re starting a step with quick opening/closing of calliper bleed nipple with pumping of brake lever. May I ask what is the reason for that?
to cause strong pressure that will hopefully dislodge bubbles, I assume.
Pumping the handle should compress any air bubbles. The smaller the bubble, the less likely it will stick to the system. Then, opening the bleed screw should allow the bubbles to move through the system.
From my understanding: This a technique to “combine” several mini-bubbles to one/two bigger ones. This one bubble can be released why more easily and less fluid will be pushed out when opening the port for a millisecond.
Why release pressure by pulling the brake and quickly releasing fluid into the bag?
Has anyone tried warming the fluid to make it less viscous and therefor allowing the bubbles to escape faster?
Adding anything to the manufacturer's fluid would change the properties, and they certainly would consider that voiding the warranty. Being patient and thorough is the best way to remove bubbles.
@@parktool Warming a fluid isn't "adding anything", though the properties that change may, as Jay Palmer stated, allow bubbles to escape easier (faster). Yes?
Why can I find tutorials where it seems enough to push new oil through and close it up again without bleeding out the bottom and changing angles? Did this video show the example of draining to the bottom for the example of dirty old oil or do you always do it this way?
There certainly different systems to bleed. Shimano's drop levers however do make it more complex to cover because there are several model with different reservoir designs. The concept of tilting the angle is to remove all bubbles that might be trapped at the lever. It is possible to begin by pushing fluid up from the lower caliper and out the top. Then drain fresh fluid down.
Can you help me find the correct burp angles for R785 shifters please?
tried finding this information on parktool.com as they said in the video but could not find anything on this topic
great but I would love a French version, does it exist? thank you
No French version at this time. If you select French subtitles it will translate the subtitles.
Спасибо мужик с усами. Без тебя я бы пропал!
I would like to know if your portable bike stand will hold a specialized turbo levo or is it to heavy for the stand? Wanting to know before I purchase one. Thank you very much.
Looks like the Turbo Levo weighs approximately 51 lbs. The weight capacity of our repair stands varies from 60 lbs. to 120 lbs. depending on the model, so any of our stands should support a bike with that weight. You can find full specs for our repair stands here: www.parktool.com/category/repair-stands
Is there a way to get that silver extension without buying the whole BKM1 kit?
www.parktool.com/en-us/category/parts?query=BKM-1 Give this a visit.
So complicated. This is the only thing I wouldn't dare DIY.
Should i buy 2 different kits if i have DOT and miberal oil break systems? Or can i just clean them between usages?
You will need two kits. The o rings in the kits are different and can swell or get hard if exposed to the other type of fluid.
@@parktool Swell or get hard you say... i dont like the sound of that! Thanks for the reply!
@@parktool Does Park Tool sell replacement O-rings? Seems like they should be replaceable since they will go bad over time regardless.
@@spencerwarren902Why should PT sell parts from Shimano? They’re two different brands/manufacturers.
If the fluid comes out dirty, shouldent i keep pushing until some clean fluid comes out? And, isnt it enough to just push new fluid through the break caliper?
Yeah, push the dirty fluid out till clean comes out then continue to gravity bleed and burp the system.
@@parktool Great. Thank you!
What about brakes with only a screw and no nipple, particularly bengal Aries 3 , I can’t find any thing online
You can bleed those brakes similar to Magura brakes. See our Magura bleed video.
In my experience most of these steps simply isn't necessary. All I do for a perfect bleed every time in minutes is attach the funnel and push fluid up using a syringe. I then rotate the bars to various angle -45 degrees to 45 degrees and squeeze the brake lever several times until no more bubbles appear and the lever feels firm. That's it. Done.
What purpose does the extension serve?
The extension gets the cup above the rubber hood. The silver one matches the thread of the bleed screw, which is M7 x 0.75. Not all drop bar models however use that thread size.
why did you put in new liquid from the top when the old was dirty? is that just another way of changing liquid? i would imagine if you kept using the syringe and burping that it would bring the same result. whats the benefit of gravity feeding the new liquid?
I wish we could get some engineer's answer to this.
The system sometimes “pulls” in some oil if air is released.
If there is no oil reservoir above any air in the system, the lever etc. could suck in some air, which gets trapped.
If you replace old oil with new one, you will remove any dirt, that could damage the rubber o- or quad-rings.
Is used “old” oil in the past, if I had to bleed “in the field” and everything was fine. But if you gave the chance to refill with new one - do it.
Hydraulic systems on bikes are not “hermetically sealed”, so you will always loose tiny amounts of oil. And you will always collect some dirt resulting from wear&tear inside the system (moving rubber on metal + dust from outside).
Hi, I’d like to better understand this “burp”, as I don’t know this from other Shimano systems (I mostly do MTB hydraulics with flat bars).
Hi,Calvin Can I Use Tektro Mineral Oil In Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake As Shimano Mineral oil is not available?
There is another video on UA-cam where someone is using baby oil and also mineral oil from the hardware store and they work fine.
Tektro's mineral oil is like a slightly cheaper copy of Shimano.
as long as its mineral oil it *should* work. however do on your own risk, if seals go bad after 2 years because the oil did have different properties than the original it would be a shame. its highly unlikely though.
Why do the syringe step first instead of jumping straight to the gravity bleed?
That is how Shimano wants it done. They believe that this removes more air bubbles from the system. They have some fun see through acrylic brakes that show where the bubbles hide.
The resevoir extension and compression sleeve are clever little extras you have to buy in order to do the job "right". My eyebrow raised even further on seeing the 7mm box wrench. Doesn't it seem odd how even if you buy all the parts and are set to do the build, you are so often ambushed by this kind of faffery.
Faffery...Had to google it. My new word for the day. Good luck on your bleed.
350kph: Park assumes that the user has a set of tools as do all quality tool sellers. Considering that this tool is usually purchased by professional bicycle mechanics, that's a reasonable assumption. The instructions should include (and probably does) a list of extra tools needed.
Excellent. Thank you. Off topic: I see this bike has Shimano GRX brifters and Dura ace calipers. Isn't that an odd mix?
The brake calipers from the GRX series are basically just rebranded calipers from the regular road components series. You might not see it on a new bike but they all work together
@@ethanbowering9944 I'm not disagreeing. I'm having so much difficulty setting up my GRX brakes because *I think* the brifter side of the brake system is different for GRX than 105/Ultegra/Dura ace. But I just don't know. Primarily because the part number for the needle is different in the GRX dealer's installation manual. The needle for the GRX is the silver needle, not the gold one. Just a slight difference. And the connecting nut is not the same part number either. I have twice as much Shimano mineral oil on my carpet as in the brake system.
@@richardbryanesq You can mix and match any current shimano STI and brake calipers (even the 4pot MTB ones to the road/grx STIs and vice versa) regardless of their "level" in the line-up with the SM BH90 brake line. the end parts differ between road and MTB usage and there are some different part numbers because of different colors and so on. f.e. XTR uses a black banjo instead of a silver one and so on.
for your GRX/Road mix there is no difference. insert pin and olive on both ends of the brake line. maybe you used the wrong bolt to attach the brake hose? the bolt with the ring around it is for the levers, the one without is for the caliper.
How about the trp hy/rd
Stay tuned!
I don't understand why the first part where you used the syringe was necessary.
Calvin, you guys make great tutorials. I've learnt quite a lot from you. However, IMHO, some of the maintenance belongs to the hands of our local bike dealers. Its the routine and skills they have. I'd probably end up with quite a mess at my place. Still, also my compliments to the hobbyists that manage this kind of work. Chapeau! (as they say in France)
Thanks. We feel that not every video we make is for the end user. Professionals also need videos, and special tools. This is one example. Anyone is welcome to purchase the BKM-1 and BKD-1, but our intent was this is a shop product. Just wait till we get to the frame machining tools!
I've already dumped a funnel filled with mineral oil on my carpet. And otherwise mineral oil on my keyboard and elsewhere.
@@richardbryanesq that would probably happen to me, too...
Can you do with 2 seringues as well ?
It is not suggested to use 2 syringes.
Any reason you cant skip directly to 7:40 and simply bleed the brake system this way, purging all used fluid in the process? This way eliminates introducing air. Its how i used to bleed motorcycle brakes. Much cleaner and faster as well.
Yeah i also wonder why, this is how i bleed my motorcycle.
Treba na to celú pojazdnú dielňu.Zlaté "V" brzdy.Tisice km,jednoduchá montáž, spoľahlivosť, bezpečnosť. Stačilo lanko,pár brzdových špalkov.10. očkový klúč!!!
Burp!
It's an equivalent to *PLONK!* when setting up tubeless. Everybody do the happy dance !!
Wish me luck.
hmm, my free stroke is still giant, tried several tricks but non of them works ... any feedback appreciated.
Long and drawn out like most American video’s, but the only one that suggests reverse bleeding from the reservoir like you would on your car. And that was the clincher, good firm brakes. Just one slight amendment; after pumping through all the air try closing the bleed nipple mid pump a few times. Thank you Mr Park Tool.
Long? Absolutely. Drawn out? Disagree. Everything was very concise, he was just more thorough in his procedure than those that would have you believe it's a 5min task. The reverse bleed and burping steps finally got my brakes feeling factory again.
I like how you managed to give a backhanded compliment to parktool AND be xenophobic all at once. Nice combo.
Using the bleed block method gives waaaay to much lever modulation.... Even after the bleed it still almost touches the bar...
wow thats complicated.
How to bleed rear grx 820 brakes ☹️☹️☹️
Good grief, what an absolute PITA to bleed a simple hydraulic system 😱 Good video but overly complicated from Shimano.
If you think this is complicated you should watch the SRAM bleed process. ugh
I Know SRAM is easy I have actually bled them. Fake news, SRAM is logical and easy.
I do not get it: first one pushes new fluid upwards with the syringe, then one lets new fluid drop through the caliper down?
Then one pumps repeatedly to have the pump burping? wow - complex procedure, it is easier on a car!
Je comprends pas, à la fin ça freine pas....
hello. i have a problem with the bleed screw (ua-cam.com/video/mAEeAKmCLFU/v-deo.html) on brake leavers - the internal thread was torn off (most likely ) and bleed screw can not be screwed in (it simply scrolls). What do u recommend in such case? to bore the hole on the leaver and use a bolt with bigger size could be an opportunity?
The bleed screw does not thread in or the threads of the cup do not? This is not common and boring the hole and rethreading is not suggested as it may introduce metal shavings into the system. Which would be bad. A new lever may be a better and often more cost effective solution.
@@parktool 1st one - the bleed screw does not thread in the port. Thread in the port exists. Dont know what the reason of this case. Also described it more here (so I'm not the only one with that issue) - bicycles.stackexchange.com/a/72254/52976
@@alexeiagafonov9715 When you write that "the thread in the port exists," it's not clear what is causing the bleed screw to "scroll," as you say. One of the parts, at least, must be stripped: either the port, or the screw. Maybe buy a replacement bleed screw and see if that works; they're only a few dollars. At least you'll know which part is stripped. This is a terribly frustrating problem. I think in the end you're going to have to get a new lever. I don't think your other solutions are viable.
I love my GRX levers but, not after watching this video.
And I thought high school algebra was difficult 😅
In 2023.. still a HELL NO! Braking power is great but if you don't have the money to take it to a shop every time there's a problem.... I'm sticking to my rim brakes. Can build an entire rim brake bike no prob.
Looks like I’m not going to be buying a bike with hydraulic brakes
Not let the idea of bleeding turn you away from hydraulic systems. These videos are intended for shops. You rarely need a bleed performed, and the hydraulic systems out perform the mechanical system.
How often have you serviced your non-hydraulic brakes? Seriously?
Oh no.. 🙄
You could have named the videos 'Method or Part 1, 2 ,3 ,4'
Or else it confuses the viewers and reduces the views.
want to buy a hydro brake RB, better watch the how to bleed..
After watching*
Hmm I'll put back the rim brake RB on the wish list.
What a ducking job
You completely skipped how to remove the brake lines
First view
*biggest loser.
This seems overly complicated - Shimano itself recommends an easier and faster way
Those were the old Shimano funnel method, not any more for new Shimano brakes.
@@jonowee we work this method in our lbs without any issues on all kinds of shimano brakes
Wait what, I just read through the Shimano manual (for Ultegra R8070 at least) and it's basically identical to this video (bleed, then gravity bleed, then rotate bars and burp levers)? What is the easier/faster way?
@@squiresuzuki they were cutting corners. This video is correct. If you aren't rotating the handles in the second step, you're half-assing it. I hope Peter isn't a bike shop worker.
@@Chance57 He literally said "we work this method in our lbs"
Discouraging how many intricate steps there are. This looks like a tedious process for something so critical to safety.