I change thr signature series 5/30 every year, a little more than 16k miles in Florida. Acura tsx have 240k and engine is super clean and dont burn a dime of oil in that year, Blackstone told me to try go for 20k cause had plenty of life, but 1 year is enough for me.
I am sure the oil life is fine at a year. I wouldn't trust any oil filter to last a year though. I would be curious to know what your filters look like after a year. Is there a place you can send the filters in to check the life after a year?
All I know is I have used M1 EP in my truck since it was new in 2005 (Nissan Titan) have 340k miles on it and have not one mechanical failure due to any oil related issues. Routine Maintenance is key no matter what oil brand you use. Just change your oil often and don't buy into that extended oil change crap. Changed my oil every 6 months or 5000 miles whichever came first. 340k miles later? Still going strong.
@@itsaboutfam 5k or 6 months whichever comes first. Most synthetic oils (insert your favorite brand) should be fine under these conditions. There is ALWAYS exceptions and apply those accordingly.
I see people in the comments saying they change their oil yearly now. I would never trust an oil filter to last that long. I use Full Syn Mobil One and their filter every 5k too. My father always got 500k out of engines using the stuff. He always changed his oil at 3.5K. Toyota T100 actually went 600k and his LS5.3 in his GMC had 550k. It was still going strong until bad wreck. Mobil one is good stuff.
Yeah a little pricey, but we'll worth every pennies from first hand experience I made switch from my last oil change. The difference was noticeably quieter and smoother.
I have spent thousands of dollars and hours on the motor oils and filters for six vehicles (three daily drivers and 3 work vans), motorcycle Kawasaki H2, and a waterski tow boat. Amsoil is a great product and I use it in my tests and Mobil 1 isn't even close now since they reformulated and changed their oil filters that end in A. There are many oils better than standard MB1, but the Extended Performance wasn't tested against the Signature Series Amsoil, but it is a knife in a gun fight. But there are better Amsoil oils than Boosted XL, which are Signature Series, High-mileage and Extended-life. Valvoline EP HM and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are two oils that easily beat Mobil1 and are amazing oils. You don't need high mileage on a vehicle to use an EP HM oil. It does not swell seals and ruin engines, if you use regular oil after, but it does have much more additive packages and better detergents. Mobil1 doesn't even use a full Synthetic filter media in their filters but those are made by Mann-Hummel, who makes one of the best filters the Purolator Boss. Next to the Amsoil EAO, Fram Endurance and Royal Purple Extended-life filters, which are all identical and are made by Champion Labs. I enjoyed your video, but the results with no TBN on Amsoil was a letdown, because you used the Boosted XL oil, not Signature Series or High Mileage, or Extended-life. Then your next oil change you used High-mileage which has different detergents and additive package than the other products Amsoil produces. But where the problem lays, you had to add 3 quarts of oil in a 4000-mile oil change. Your engine takes 5-6 quarts of oil I would assume, so you are practically replacing all of the oil in the engine throughout an oil change. Why not just changed the filter and keep adding a quart every 1000 miles? These numbers are completely invalid based on the oil being added alone and not using oils that are a match to each other in the test. Amsoil is great, but pretty expensive to be adding a quart every month or less. Valvoline and Pennzoil make a product that is just as good, and you would notice the same engine smoothness and less oil usage. Nobody ever seems to test oils head-to-head or apples to apples. The mileage is also different between the two oil changes, but you still added three quarts of make-up oil along the way with 3000 miles. That is at least half, if not more, of what your engine holds to begin with. I mean, I love Amsoil and use it in my tests and strictly in my motorcycle and boat. I test oil analysis with different filters, different vehicles, all with different mileages over years. I have a pretty extensive database now and I continue to do so. Sure, it gets expensive but worth it. I have learned invaluable information and I have friends starting to do the same thing on their vehicles. If you plan on keeping that vehicle, why not have the valve stem seals replaced? I changed my own on my MKIV Supra Twin Turbo and it made a world of difference. No smoke at start-up and stopped burning oil. My Hellcat calls for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 from the factory. That is the factory fill for all SRT vehicles. And with 900whp on the dyno, it does pretty well. It takes exactly 7 quarts and I have tried the Amsoil Signature Series 0w-40 and EAO11 filter two oil changes, and the car ran great and oil analysis were just as good as the Pennzoil and Valvoline with Purolator Boss filters. The Fram Endurance works all the same, since it is the same filter as the others. But I won't run a MB product in that engine because MB support told me that Mobil does not make an FCA approved oil. The results I have seen are just too far off on the other tests to even try it on such of an expensive engine. So, in the end I appreciate your video and I love hearing high mileage vehicles running Synthetic oils and not Warren oils like Kirkland, SuperTech and Amazon. I suppose if don't care about your engine, changed it every 3000 miles and use a good quality filter and not OEM junk filters, then maybe. But engines are expensive and good oil and filters don't have to be but a little bit more for the longevity and quality. Perhaps, if you have the valve-stem seals replaced, you could run a full oil change without make-up oil to have a real result. But you might have cylinder blow-by you aren't aware of at that kind of mileage. A compression and leak-down test would be interesting to see the results of also. Thank you for the video!
Thank you for your comment and input and additional information. I have received alot of information from the comments here and I have done some additional research. The Boosted series is actually discontinued, the oil that I used for the oil change was Amsoil Extended Life. I did contact Blackstone Labs about the oil I was adding and if it had a huge impact of my oil analysis accuracy and they said it wasn't significant enough to really skew the results due to the amount of miles I was adding oil. I have a buddy with a Acura MDX that was burning alot more oil than my Montero and he was adding oil almost every week and when he sent his oil analysis Blackstone told him his results would be accurate due to the amount of oil he was adding. I have contemplated on replacing my VSS on the current motor, BUT I am actually planning on swapping the motor to the larger more efficient and powerful Mitsubishi 3.8 6G75 in the foreseeable future as I plan a major regear and lower reduction transfer case gears. So fixing the VSS in the current motor hasn't been a priority. Again thank you for your input!
I agree on the additional oil altering the results. If I’m buying Amsoil, Signature Series is the only way to go. All shelf oil will work, it’s the level and intervals that will be different. I run Signature Series to 4k, change filter and run another 4k. I’ve done that for the last 4 years on my 2019 Chevy 5.3 work truck and the valve train & upper cylinders are extremely clean, at 190k miles of hard service.
@@gj91471 I will certainly order up an oil change worth and send a virgin and used sample to Blackstone for analysis before and after. I appreciate the info. There are a couple non-mainstream Synthetics that are fantastic, so we'll see how the results come out.
In my Petrol car I've been using Shell Helix ultra 5w30 C3 At my last oil change I decided to try Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W30 C3 ("New generation") And I have noticed the engine quieter on start up, and in general being quieter (still early days though). Have you tried this oil?
Thank you man😎 I will probably do a projector retrofit video in a few months when I do a new pair of projectors for my Montero. I think my version 2 projectors will have DRL LEDs in the shroud this time around.
Good video. Only one correction. The unit average in gray is only the average of the two samples. To the far right is the universal average of all samples from all customers with the same engine. That is what you use to compare wear performance for your engine. I recommend you do new oil test so that you know the starting point for all tests. You had 4ppm of maganese, which is unusual. Did you use any octane boost additives with Amsoil? Manganese is a main ingredient of octane booster. Agree both oils were replaced long before they were needed. I would extend the Amsoil to 8k, then retest. I've been using Amsoil for 35 years.
I did use Techron fuel system cleaner mid way though the oil change interval. I don't plan on doing the oil change interval at 8k. Maybe I am old school or paranoid or both...but I am comfortable at the 5k interval. If you noticed...it took me almost 9 months to hit 5k so 8k would probably take a year. I don't mind the 5k interval even though the results show the Amsoil is still potent enough to go further. Maybe I will try 8k when I get closer on swapping to the larger 3.8 Mitsubishi 6g75 down the road. Either or I am extremely happy with Amsoil and planning to switch to it on my other vehicles. Thank you for the comment ..I appreciate it😎👍
I had a 1980 BMW320I and I did 21000 mile oil changes with Amsoil. I ran AMSOIL since I bought the car new. I sold the car with 180000 miles, and it still looked new under valve cover. I ran that car hard in NY driving. I started using Amsoil in 1976. That report shows that Amsoil has a much better additive package than Mobil one. It looks like the Amsoil will do 10000 miles easy.
Ran Amsoil signature series on my 2021 Tundra 5.7 v8 43k+ miles i drive her rough heavy foot and when idling at red lights i sometimes forget the motor is running its so smooth . I change it every 10K miles or 1 year. From the look of the oil it can go a lot longer its expensive but it is quality oil.
Great information, thanks for sharing the data and your observations! I'm a big fan of Amsoil's products too, I'm going to be placing another order with them very soon. The only complaint I have is that they don't make a high HTHS 30 weight for street use other than their reduced SAPS European formula and they don't make their premium Signature Series in a 10W-40. Not many choices out there for premium high HTHS 30 weight oils or shear stable and low volatility 40 weight oils, which rules out most if not all 0W-40 and 5W-40 oils. The data sheet and analysis results for the Extended Life 10W-40 that you used look great and it's no doubt one of the best 10W-40 oils on the market, but I'd personally spend the extra few dollars on Signature Series 10W-40 if they made it.
The most recent oil change I used Amsoil Extended Life 10w40 synthetic oil. They discontinued the Boosted series, so for 10w40 they currently offer Z-rod series, Dominator, and Premium protection series. Thank you for commenting...its very much appreciated.
@@fernandob3062 I have their SS 10W-30 in 2 of my cars right now, but they still don't make it in a 10W-40 and I doubt they ever will. I'm so sick of high quality thicker synthetic oils getting harder and harder to find for a reasonable price. As much as I like Amsoil, I'm considering trying Redline oils since they seem to be one of the only companies with a good selection of premium full synthetic oils in thicker grades.
I just filled My Firebird with Amsoil on Thursday. What I was really impressed with was the fuel additives. Did You do the Amsoil Engine Flush Treatment? Great Video
@@FoolsAmongUs I haven't used their engine flush....but I have been debating if I should. My motor has been running so well I haven't had a reason to. I have used their fuel system cleaner and it seems to work well. It's a out the same price at Techron.
I use the Mobil 1 0w40 European blend, I like the additive package. It’s the only Mobile 1 I will use in my daily drivers. I use the Mobile 1 20w50 in my race car.
I haven't been particularly happy with Mobil 1 from my experiences. I used to use it on my other cars in the past and with the same experiences. The only reason I switched back to Mobil 1 prior to Amsoil is because I wanted to run 10w40 synthetic oil and Mobil 1 was the only available off the shelf brand at the time I needed to do an oil change. I decided on Amsoil because they had 10w40 synthetic and I already use their products on my differentials, transfer case and transmission. The only other oil that I really liked was Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil that no longer is available.
@@itsaboutfam I use mibil1 high mileage extended performance. I understand there are better ones like Amsoil. I heard that Valvoline's high-mileage extended performance is really good for vehicles with high mileage.
Hi man. Greetings here in california, and like you, when I was in Philippines I’ve always dreamt of having a pajero. My dad used to drive us in a pajero when I was 10. And now I saw one and the owner did everything including transmission filters and oil changes consistently. He also re geared and add lockers. But unlike the engines in the asia (diesel). I heard these engines have valve stem seals problems. Since you’re at almost 250k miles. Does it give you any problems?
What's up! The only issue with the bad VSS is it burns oil and when you at idle for a bit you will blow some smoke at acceleration but that's it. In the video the motor still runs smooth and I have no drivability issues. I do notice I burn more oil as it gets closer to the oil change interval but with the Amsoil it's much later.
I use to use mobile 1 full synthetic on all of my vehicles, but have been getting valve lifter rattling at every cold start. Until I decided to switch to amsoil signature series. With ever oil and filter change I did with mobile 1. I notice that the oil was very liquidy like water texture and the filter looks cooked. The motor oil just doesn't look like it has any of the lubricity quality left on it. With this new amsoil signature series. I notice that the valve lifter rattling was completely gone with every cold start. Which is how it should be with every start up. You shouldn't be hearing no valve lifter rattling during cold start. From now it's just gonna be amsoil for me. The oil life is just much better with amsoil signature series.
I had the same experience. My experiences started with my my Galant VR4, my other turbo Galant and old Evo 8. I switched to Valvoline and had better experience with their oil than Mobil 1.
Switch to GTL oil such as pennzoil platinum or platinum and rattle will go away. GTL oils flow better you will notice it will be quieter right away. Mobil1 has really good marketing but it’s just a midland normal oil unless you are using its 0w-20 which is group 4 PAO based. GTL oils are high end group 3 so group 3+ I suppose and have better flow qualities.
@@itsaboutfamI would be curious to see how amsoil SS can do against the EUROPEAN CASTROL EDGE FULL SYNTHETIC made in Germany (Not the American Castrol edge)
@@user-wm2twin Europe, shell helix ultra 5w40 has some Esters in its formulation to be a true full synthetic. Therefore it cannot be considered group 3 or 3 plus because helix ultra is 99 percent pure and has zero crude. No other companies, unlike shell does that
I'm not so sure about the mobile 1 data base on my past experience using the mobile 1 oil. I feel my car didn't perform as good as it should using mobile 1. Hence why I switch to amsoil. The way it runs and perform after I made the switch is quite significant to where I can actually feel the difference it made to my car.
U may consider switching to Quaker state 5w40 euro SP..or the 5w30 full synthetic high mileage dexos 1 gen3...ive been using the oils in my 2017 bmw 320i and 2016 Highlander after seeing the low volatility..like 5.7%..and seeing that kia Hyundai approached shell for an oil to deal with their gdi oil consumption problems...at RAT 540 engine oil testing showed how robust the oils are for the money..as long as you are going to be pouring 3qts a cycle out the tail pipe so to speak....just a thought...thanks for the video and the test results were helpful to me...very informative...
my xperience w/m1 was not good... was told by a mechanic that m1 did NOT hav proper seal conditioners, so i gave up on synthetics till my mechanic sold me on AMSOIL... will NOT use anything else in any of my 'toys' using high milage oil now in my lexus nx200t, w/77k on it now... & yes, my car runs SMOOTHER now... did gain a couple mpgs...
Unfortunately i totally didn't realize at the time I paid for the standard oil analysis. It was an extra $10 to get the TBN. I realized too late after I got the report back.
Blackstone Laboratories would have mentioned something in my oil analysis of me adding oil during the interval cycle would affect the results. My co worker with a Acura MDX that burns a lot more oil than I do sent his oil to them and they mentioned that the amount of oil he was adding during his intervals caused some of the oil analysis results not to be accurate as far as oil viscosity and additive content. The only thing that showed was he had higher than normal metal content in his oil which turned out to be accurate. He pulled the motor and tore it apart and found out his main bearings were failing. That was the other point of my oil analysis was also to see how healthy my motor is.
Thanks for commenting. Oil is a debatable subject as many people have different opinions. As long as your change your oil you should be good. My experience with Amsoil has been great as i observed my vehicles just run better.
Your doing oil analysis next time rather than changing your oil take a sample at your normal interval change out the filter see what the lab says if it's still good to go keep going take another sample at the next interval and change your filter top it off again see what the lab says. if you reach a year change it out. But use Amsoil engine flush to help clean more contaminates out maybe that lifter tick will quiet but at 250k+ I would seriously have that checked out it may be collapsing and will destroy your cam. Those engines generally begin to need to be rebuilt at that mileage.
There are plenty of 6g7x motors that have much higher mileage with original internals. It really depends on its maintenance history that will dictate if it needs a rebuild sooner. As far as getting the oil from the filter....I don't think there will be enough oil to fill the sample bottle Blackstone provides. The lifter tick issue isn't that bad as it only happens for a short time like the video or if the vehicle has been sitting for a couple days.
@@itsaboutfamok let me ask you this I have a pentastar 3.6L in my Dodge Journey brand new on cold start up them rocker lifters ticked. So I would put the car in flood mode. Before starting it. This is a mode that allows you to crank over the engine while fuel delivery is disabled allowing you to prime the oil system in the engine block heads valve train and lifters before starting it. This is activated by holding the brake pedal and accelerator to the floor while cranking for 5 to 7 seconds. Then try starting it normally tell me if you notice a difference in the ticking sound then. Now this procedure may be different or not even possible on your vehicle which is rare but with almost all vehicles since 2000 it's been a feature that for whatever reason wasn't talked about.
@@Jon-O. I honestly never heard of anything like that unless that's a Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep specific feature. I know the lifter tick in Mitsubishis is somewhat common and even has explanations in the FSM why and remedies. The tick is because oil has drained from the lifter oil passages or air got in from low oil or too much oil. My lifter tick only happens when the vehicle sits for a few days or after an oil change.
Same here...I know that some people will argue that cheaper oils are just as good and I get that argument BUT I know my vehicles and they run better with Amsoil. The only other oil that's less expensive that was similar in performance was Shell Rotells Gas Truck & SUV which they stopped making.
@@itsaboutfam I used to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil-1, I finally tried Amsoil and it is superior. My Hemi valve train loves Amsoil especially on cold dry start ups.
Just use normal synthetic oils such as Kirkland, super tech or Amazon oil (since they are the same oil) and change every 5k for mixed driving and you’ll be fine. That’s for group 3 oils. No need to go with these fancy group 4 or mystery oils unless you are driving a race car. Complete waste of money and time if you do so. All oils have to meet same minimum specs. if you use GTLoils, which are high end group 3 or group 3+, such as pennzoil platinum uktra, with which you can go to go 7k miles mixed driving . If doing stop and go delivery and idling type of driving change. Every 3k and maybe 4k on GTL oils. If just highway miles on cruise control go 7 or 8k on normal synthetic and 10k on GTL. So that’s basically it. Use conventional oil if you have older car such as a truck from 2000 that you put only 1000 miles a year. Time wise synthetics upto 1 year and conventional upto 6 months. This way you are not wasting money and product and also protecting your engine. Group 4 and group 5 oils are for racing purposes and are a waste of money for your daily driver. People get fought up in brand loyalty instead of understanding that oil is primarily affected by heat cycles, fuel dilution and oxidation & shear wear, and not by miles driven. An oil with 2000 miles of a delivery vehicle that does all day idling and stop and go driving may mean more worn than someone who does 200 miles freeway driving daily and has 8k miles. Always use the weight specified by the automaker and do not deviate from it. Today’s tight tolerances and VCT engines need correct viscosity or engine damage will occur. No need to add additives either. If you are driving a race car, such as something with 700 hp and 12k rpm, then you need to worry about group 4 or 5 oils otherwise you are wasting your time and money. Your Toyota Camry or dodge 1500 hauling grocers or going to work and back at 55 mph does not need group 4 or 5 even though you love your car and “feel” that it will benefit from it 😂😂
Bingo. Unless you own a Porsche or Ferrari. It's not necessary to use a high performance synthetic oil but since shell helix ultra 5w40 (Porsche and Ferrari approved) is way cheaper and has a better formulation than amsoil, then why not
3000 miles man you wasting your money blackstone can tell you that. Ask for how long you can run your oil for. If you switched to Amsoil, you probably can push over 7000 but since you’re already scared to go past three you could probably go 5000
Who invented the combustion engine? Was it a Christian engineer? Does the principles in the Christian bible have tge power to make people more ingenious?honest question
I change thr signature series 5/30 every year, a little more than 16k miles in Florida. Acura tsx have 240k and engine is super clean and dont burn a dime of oil in that year, Blackstone told me to try go for 20k cause had plenty of life, but 1 year is enough for me.
That's awesome...great to hear!👍
I do yearly's with my oil as well and doesn't hurt a thing👍🏽
I am sure the oil life is fine at a year. I wouldn't trust any oil filter to last a year though. I would be curious to know what your filters look like after a year. Is there a place you can send the filters in to check the life after a year?
All I know is I have used M1 EP in my truck since it was new in 2005 (Nissan Titan) have 340k miles on it and have not one mechanical failure due to any oil related issues. Routine Maintenance is key no matter what oil brand you use. Just change your oil often and don't buy into that extended oil change crap. Changed my oil every 6 months or 5000 miles whichever came first. 340k miles later? Still going strong.
5k miles is the max I would run oil before an oil change. Thanks for the comment👍
@@itsaboutfam 5k or 6 months whichever comes first. Most synthetic oils (insert your favorite brand) should be fine under these conditions. There is ALWAYS exceptions and apply those accordingly.
Mobile 1 here to, and it doesn't cost 16 dollars a quart😅😅
@@zzz-zj7xg neither does amsoil
I see people in the comments saying they change their oil yearly now. I would never trust an oil filter to last that long. I use Full Syn Mobil One and their filter every 5k too. My father always got 500k out of engines using the stuff. He always changed his oil at 3.5K. Toyota T100 actually went 600k and his LS5.3 in his GMC had 550k. It was still going strong until bad wreck. Mobil one is good stuff.
Great video! I have been using Amsoil for 2 years in my Tahoe. No complaints.
That's awesome and thank you for commenting 😎👍
Yeah a little pricey, but we'll worth every pennies from first hand experience I made switch from my last oil change. The difference was noticeably quieter and smoother.
I have spent thousands of dollars and hours on the motor oils and filters for six vehicles (three daily drivers and 3 work vans), motorcycle Kawasaki H2, and a waterski tow boat. Amsoil is a great product and I use it in my tests and Mobil 1 isn't even close now since they reformulated and changed their oil filters that end in A. There are many oils better than standard MB1, but the Extended Performance wasn't tested against the Signature Series Amsoil, but it is a knife in a gun fight. But there are better Amsoil oils than Boosted XL, which are Signature Series, High-mileage and Extended-life. Valvoline EP HM and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum are two oils that easily beat Mobil1 and are amazing oils. You don't need high mileage on a vehicle to use an EP HM oil. It does not swell seals and ruin engines, if you use regular oil after, but it does have much more additive packages and better detergents. Mobil1 doesn't even use a full Synthetic filter media in their filters but those are made by Mann-Hummel, who makes one of the best filters the Purolator Boss. Next to the Amsoil EAO, Fram Endurance and Royal Purple Extended-life filters, which are all identical and are made by Champion Labs.
I enjoyed your video, but the results with no TBN on Amsoil was a letdown, because you used the Boosted XL oil, not Signature Series or High Mileage, or Extended-life. Then your next oil change you used High-mileage which has different detergents and additive package than the other products Amsoil produces. But where the problem lays, you had to add 3 quarts of oil in a 4000-mile oil change. Your engine takes 5-6 quarts of oil I would assume, so you are practically replacing all of the oil in the engine throughout an oil change. Why not just changed the filter and keep adding a quart every 1000 miles? These numbers are completely invalid based on the oil being added alone and not using oils that are a match to each other in the test.
Amsoil is great, but pretty expensive to be adding a quart every month or less. Valvoline and Pennzoil make a product that is just as good, and you would notice the same engine smoothness and less oil usage. Nobody ever seems to test oils head-to-head or apples to apples. The mileage is also different between the two oil changes, but you still added three quarts of make-up oil along the way with 3000 miles. That is at least half, if not more, of what your engine holds to begin with. I mean, I love Amsoil and use it in my tests and strictly in my motorcycle and boat. I test oil analysis with different filters, different vehicles, all with different mileages over years. I have a pretty extensive database now and I continue to do so. Sure, it gets expensive but worth it. I have learned invaluable information and I have friends starting to do the same thing on their vehicles.
If you plan on keeping that vehicle, why not have the valve stem seals replaced? I changed my own on my MKIV Supra Twin Turbo and it made a world of difference. No smoke at start-up and stopped burning oil. My Hellcat calls for Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w40 from the factory. That is the factory fill for all SRT vehicles. And with 900whp on the dyno, it does pretty well. It takes exactly 7 quarts and I have tried the Amsoil Signature Series 0w-40 and EAO11 filter two oil changes, and the car ran great and oil analysis were just as good as the Pennzoil and Valvoline with Purolator Boss filters. The Fram Endurance works all the same, since it is the same filter as the others. But I won't run a MB product in that engine because MB support told me that Mobil does not make an FCA approved oil. The results I have seen are just too far off on the other tests to even try it on such of an expensive engine.
So, in the end I appreciate your video and I love hearing high mileage vehicles running Synthetic oils and not Warren oils like Kirkland, SuperTech and Amazon. I suppose if don't care about your engine, changed it every 3000 miles and use a good quality filter and not OEM junk filters, then maybe. But engines are expensive and good oil and filters don't have to be but a little bit more for the longevity and quality. Perhaps, if you have the valve-stem seals replaced, you could run a full oil change without make-up oil to have a real result. But you might have cylinder blow-by you aren't aware of at that kind of mileage. A compression and leak-down test would be interesting to see the results of also.
Thank you for the video!
Thank you for your comment and input and additional information. I have received alot of information from the comments here and I have done some additional research. The Boosted series is actually discontinued, the oil that I used for the oil change was Amsoil Extended Life.
I did contact Blackstone Labs about the oil I was adding and if it had a huge impact of my oil analysis accuracy and they said it wasn't significant enough to really skew the results due to the amount of miles I was adding oil. I have a buddy with a Acura MDX that was burning alot more oil than my Montero and he was adding oil almost every week and when he sent his oil analysis Blackstone told him his results would be accurate due to the amount of oil he was adding.
I have contemplated on replacing my VSS on the current motor, BUT I am actually planning on swapping the motor to the larger more efficient and powerful Mitsubishi 3.8 6G75 in the foreseeable future as I plan a major regear and lower reduction transfer case gears. So fixing the VSS in the current motor hasn't been a priority.
Again thank you for your input!
I agree on the additional oil altering the results. If I’m buying Amsoil, Signature Series is the only way to go. All shelf oil will work, it’s the level and intervals that will be different. I run Signature Series to 4k, change filter and run another 4k. I’ve done that for the last 4 years on my 2019 Chevy 5.3 work truck and the valve train & upper cylinders are extremely clean, at 190k miles of hard service.
Ravenol is worth trying.
@@gj91471 I will certainly order up an oil change worth and send a virgin and used sample to Blackstone for analysis before and after. I appreciate the info. There are a couple non-mainstream Synthetics that are fantastic, so we'll see how the results come out.
In my Petrol car I've been using Shell Helix ultra 5w30 C3
At my last oil change I decided to try Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W30 C3 ("New generation")
And I have noticed the engine quieter on start up, and in general being quieter (still early days though).
Have you tried this oil?
i use ams oil its absolutely fantastic
i switched from amsoil to hotshots black diamond Outlaw diesel oil 15w-40 in my diesel landcruiser my mother couldn't be more happier
Never heard of that oil....but that's awesome it's working out for you. 😎👍
I’m digging the content, keep it up.
When are you going to post up your projector headlight video?
Thank you man😎 I will probably do a projector retrofit video in a few months when I do a new pair of projectors for my Montero. I think my version 2 projectors will have DRL LEDs in the shroud this time around.
Good video. Only one correction. The unit average in gray is only the average of the two samples. To the far right is the universal average of all samples from all customers with the same engine. That is what you use to compare wear performance for your engine. I recommend you do new oil test so that you know the starting point for all tests. You had 4ppm of maganese, which is unusual. Did you use any octane boost additives with Amsoil? Manganese is a main ingredient of octane booster. Agree both oils were replaced long before they were needed. I would extend the Amsoil to 8k, then retest. I've been using Amsoil for 35 years.
I did use Techron fuel system cleaner mid way though the oil change interval. I don't plan on doing the oil change interval at 8k. Maybe I am old school or paranoid or both...but I am comfortable at the 5k interval. If you noticed...it took me almost 9 months to hit 5k so 8k would probably take a year. I don't mind the 5k interval even though the results show the Amsoil is still potent enough to go further. Maybe I will try 8k when I get closer on swapping to the larger 3.8 Mitsubishi 6g75 down the road.
Either or I am extremely happy with Amsoil and planning to switch to it on my other vehicles.
Thank you for the comment ..I appreciate it😎👍
I had a 1980 BMW320I and I did 21000 mile oil changes with Amsoil. I ran AMSOIL since I bought the car new. I sold the car with 180000 miles, and it still looked new under valve cover. I ran that car hard in NY driving. I started using Amsoil in 1976. That report shows that Amsoil has a much better additive package than Mobil one. It looks like the Amsoil will do 10000 miles easy.
That's awesome..and pretty cool you were using Amsoil that long ago.
Thank you for sharing!
Ran Amsoil signature series on my 2021 Tundra 5.7 v8 43k+ miles i drive her rough heavy foot and when idling at red lights i sometimes forget the motor is running its so smooth . I change it every 10K miles or 1 year. From the look of the oil it can go a lot longer its expensive but it is quality oil.
Great information, thanks for sharing the data and your observations! I'm a big fan of Amsoil's products too, I'm going to be placing another order with them very soon. The only complaint I have is that they don't make a high HTHS 30 weight for street use other than their reduced SAPS European formula and they don't make their premium Signature Series in a 10W-40.
Not many choices out there for premium high HTHS 30 weight oils or shear stable and low volatility 40 weight oils, which rules out most if not all 0W-40 and 5W-40 oils. The data sheet and analysis results for the Extended Life 10W-40 that you used look great and it's no doubt one of the best 10W-40 oils on the market, but I'd personally spend the extra few dollars on Signature Series 10W-40 if they made it.
The most recent oil change I used Amsoil Extended Life 10w40 synthetic oil. They discontinued the Boosted series, so for 10w40 they currently offer Z-rod series, Dominator, and Premium protection series.
Thank you for commenting...its very much appreciated.
Signature.S just made it til 10w30....I also need a 10w40 Sig.S....but not exist till now
@@fernandob3062 I have their SS 10W-30 in 2 of my cars right now, but they still don't make it in a 10W-40 and I doubt they ever will. I'm so sick of high quality thicker synthetic oils getting harder and harder to find for a reasonable price.
As much as I like Amsoil, I'm considering trying Redline oils since they seem to be one of the only companies with a good selection of premium full synthetic oils in thicker grades.
I just filled My Firebird with Amsoil on Thursday.
What I was really impressed with was the fuel additives.
Did You do the Amsoil Engine Flush Treatment?
Great Video
@@FoolsAmongUs I haven't used their engine flush....but I have been debating if I should. My motor has been running so well I haven't had a reason to. I have used their fuel system cleaner and it seems to work well. It's a out the same price at Techron.
😮 real thankx
that alot of time
thank u agine
i used mobil 1 in my 1.8 corolla
mabe i will test the amsoil
😎👍
Ok waste your money 😂
Amsoil in all three cases in my 06 Harley Davidson Softail 88
Have you Considered next time around trying Amsoil 10w40 premium protection? I think you will have a even better experience than the XL.
I have, and am planning to on the next oil change.
There’s no comparison Amsoil signature.. Probably the best oil on the planet!! Zero40 signature in my BMW 335i With 500 hp
Thanks for commenting. I agree...their Signature series oil has been excellent.
YOU LIKE WASTING,, 💰 I MONEY
I use the Mobil 1 0w40 European blend, I like the additive package. It’s the only Mobile 1 I will use in my daily drivers. I use the Mobile 1 20w50 in my race car.
You should use Mobil1 high mileage extended performance. It is better than the high mileage.
I haven't been particularly happy with Mobil 1 from my experiences. I used to use it on my other cars in the past and with the same experiences. The only reason I switched back to Mobil 1 prior to Amsoil is because I wanted to run 10w40 synthetic oil and Mobil 1 was the only available off the shelf brand at the time I needed to do an oil change. I decided on Amsoil because they had 10w40 synthetic and I already use their products on my differentials, transfer case and transmission.
The only other oil that I really liked was Shell Rotella Gas Truck oil that no longer is available.
@@itsaboutfam I use mibil1 high mileage extended performance. I understand there are better ones like Amsoil. I heard that Valvoline's high-mileage extended performance is really good for vehicles with high mileage.
@@romanc.5074 Valvoline is a really good oil and I used it in my Montero a few years ago. I would recommend it to anyone also.
Hi man. Greetings here in california, and like you, when I was in Philippines I’ve always dreamt of having a pajero.
My dad used to drive us in a pajero when I was 10. And now I saw one and the owner did everything including transmission filters and oil changes consistently. He also re geared and add lockers.
But unlike the engines in the asia (diesel). I heard these engines have valve stem seals problems.
Since you’re at almost 250k miles. Does it give you any problems?
What's up! The only issue with the bad VSS is it burns oil and when you at idle for a bit you will blow some smoke at acceleration but that's it. In the video the motor still runs smooth and I have no drivability issues. I do notice I burn more oil as it gets closer to the oil change interval but with the Amsoil it's much later.
Amsoil vs Valvoline Restore and Protect, would like to see comparisons.
Amsoil is good. But any of the top tier oils will do the job. Make sure you use top tier fuel too.
I agree...I really liked Valvoline and Rotella Gas truck /SUV but they didn't offer the viscosity I wanted and Rotella discontinued that oil.
I use to use mobile 1 full synthetic on all of my vehicles, but have been getting valve lifter rattling at every cold start. Until I decided to switch to amsoil signature series. With ever oil and filter change I did with mobile 1. I notice that the oil was very liquidy like water texture and the filter looks cooked. The motor oil just doesn't look like it has any of the lubricity quality left on it. With this new amsoil signature series. I notice that the valve lifter rattling was completely gone with every cold start. Which is how it should be with every start up. You shouldn't be hearing no valve lifter rattling during cold start. From now it's just gonna be amsoil for me. The oil life is just much better with amsoil signature series.
I had the same experience. My experiences started with my my Galant VR4, my other turbo Galant and old Evo 8. I switched to Valvoline and had better experience with their oil than Mobil 1.
Switch to GTL oil such as pennzoil platinum or platinum and rattle will go away. GTL oils flow better you will notice it will be quieter right away.
Mobil1 has really good marketing but it’s just a midland normal oil unless you are using its 0w-20 which is group 4 PAO based. GTL oils are high end group 3 so group 3+ I suppose and have better flow qualities.
I had the same issue with Mobil-1 it turns to water with age.
@@itsaboutfamI would be curious to see how amsoil SS can do against the EUROPEAN CASTROL EDGE FULL SYNTHETIC made in Germany (Not the American Castrol edge)
@@user-wm2twin Europe, shell helix ultra 5w40 has some Esters in its formulation to be a true full synthetic. Therefore it cannot be considered group 3 or 3 plus because helix ultra is 99 percent pure and has zero crude. No other companies, unlike shell does that
I'm not so sure about the mobile 1 data base on my past experience using the mobile 1 oil. I feel my car didn't perform as good as it should using mobile 1. Hence why I switch to amsoil. The way it runs and perform after I made the switch is quite significant to where I can actually feel the difference it made to my car.
U may consider switching to Quaker state 5w40 euro SP..or the 5w30 full synthetic high mileage dexos 1 gen3...ive been using the oils in my 2017 bmw 320i and 2016 Highlander after seeing the low volatility..like 5.7%..and seeing that kia Hyundai approached shell for an oil to deal with their gdi oil consumption problems...at RAT 540 engine oil testing showed how robust the oils are for the money..as long as you are going to be pouring 3qts a cycle out the tail pipe so to speak....just a thought...thanks for the video and the test results were helpful to me...very informative...
my xperience w/m1 was not good... was told by a mechanic that m1 did NOT hav proper seal conditioners, so i gave up on synthetics till my mechanic sold me on AMSOIL... will NOT use anything else in any of my 'toys' using high milage oil now in my lexus nx200t, w/77k on it now... & yes, my car runs SMOOTHER now... did gain a couple mpgs...
@@brucek.hoffman5868 That's awesome to hear! Thank you for commenting 😎👍
Does the multiple quarts of fresh oil to keep the level full skew the analysis results?
Just because a lab says your oil can go longer doesn't mean its not slugging up your engine
I would hope that an oil that costs 4 x more is better. No contest however, Red line's add pack makes Amsoil look like Supertech.
Awesome bro
Nice Galant (VR-4).
Thank you....I am trying to get it running and driving again.
I like amsoil but there are good oils out there
I use amsoil on my car. It does run smoothly compared to the recommended brand on my sonata Quaker State
That's great to hear and thank you for commenting!
TBN for the ams oil?
Unfortunately i totally didn't realize at the time I paid for the standard oil analysis. It was an extra $10 to get the TBN. I realized too late after I got the report back.
You should buy EZ Drain oil plus they are Great💯
What's the point of the test between them, you add 5 quarts to Amsoil and 4 to Mobil 1. There could be no additive wear.
Blackstone Laboratories would have mentioned something in my oil analysis of me adding oil during the interval cycle would affect the results. My co worker with a Acura MDX that burns a lot more oil than I do sent his oil to them and they mentioned that the amount of oil he was adding during his intervals caused some of the oil analysis results not to be accurate as far as oil viscosity and additive content. The only thing that showed was he had higher than normal metal content in his oil which turned out to be accurate. He pulled the motor and tore it apart and found out his main bearings were failing.
That was the other point of my oil analysis was also to see how healthy my motor is.
The difference is not that big. I do not see the reason for paying extra for Ams.
Thanks for commenting. Oil is a debatable subject as many people have different opinions. As long as your change your oil you should be good. My experience with Amsoil has been great as i observed my vehicles just run better.
Your doing oil analysis next time rather than changing your oil take a sample at your normal interval change out the filter see what the lab says if it's still good to go keep going take another sample at the next interval and change your filter top it off again see what the lab says. if you reach a year change it out. But use Amsoil engine flush to help clean more contaminates out maybe that lifter tick will quiet but at 250k+ I would seriously have that checked out it may be collapsing and will destroy your cam. Those engines generally begin to need to be rebuilt at that mileage.
There are plenty of 6g7x motors that have much higher mileage with original internals. It really depends on its maintenance history that will dictate if it needs a rebuild sooner. As far as getting the oil from the filter....I don't think there will be enough oil to fill the sample bottle Blackstone provides.
The lifter tick issue isn't that bad as it only happens for a short time like the video or if the vehicle has been sitting for a couple days.
@@itsaboutfamok let me ask you this I have a pentastar 3.6L in my Dodge Journey brand new on cold start up them rocker lifters ticked. So I would put the car in flood mode.
Before starting it. This is a mode that allows you to crank over the engine while fuel delivery is disabled allowing you to prime the oil system in the engine block heads valve train and lifters before starting it. This is activated by holding the brake pedal and accelerator to the floor while cranking for 5 to 7 seconds. Then try starting it normally tell me if you notice a difference in the ticking sound then. Now this procedure may be different or not even possible on your vehicle which is rare but with almost all vehicles since 2000 it's been a feature that for whatever reason wasn't talked about.
@@Jon-O. I honestly never heard of anything like that unless that's a Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep specific feature. I know the lifter tick in Mitsubishis is somewhat common and even has explanations in the FSM why and remedies. The tick is because oil has drained from the lifter oil passages or air got in from low oil or too much oil. My lifter tick only happens when the vehicle sits for a few days or after an oil change.
Enyone experians with using amsoil 0w20 SS in RX450H 2016-2022 cars? Think go from Toyota 0w20 oil to Amsoil 0w20 SS.
No contest Amsoil hands down
😎👍
I would say so myself😎
Valve seals are old and worn nothing to do with your oil your useing. They are both premium grade.
Amsoil #1.
Is it a group 4 oil?
What year is your Montero?
@@prevost8686 1998
Run t6 5 40 rotella synthetic..
Man you got oil fever. Lol.
Amsoil hands down. I won’t use anything else.
Same here...I know that some people will argue that cheaper oils are just as good and I get that argument BUT I know my vehicles and they run better with Amsoil. The only other oil that's less expensive that was similar in performance was Shell Rotells Gas Truck & SUV which they stopped making.
@@itsaboutfam I used to run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil-1, I finally tried Amsoil and it is superior. My Hemi valve train loves Amsoil especially on cold dry start ups.
Just use normal synthetic oils such as Kirkland, super tech or Amazon oil (since they are the same oil) and change every 5k for mixed driving and you’ll be fine. That’s for group 3 oils. No need to go with these fancy group 4 or mystery oils unless you are driving a race car. Complete waste of money and time if you do so. All oils have to meet same minimum specs. if you use GTLoils, which are high end group 3 or group 3+, such as pennzoil platinum uktra, with which you can go to go 7k miles mixed driving . If doing stop and go delivery and idling type of driving change. Every 3k and maybe 4k on GTL oils. If just highway miles on cruise control go 7 or 8k on normal synthetic and 10k on GTL. So that’s basically it.
Use conventional oil if you have older car such as a truck from 2000 that you put only 1000 miles a year.
Time wise synthetics upto 1 year and conventional upto 6 months.
This way you are not wasting money and product and also protecting your engine.
Group 4 and group 5 oils are for racing purposes and are a waste of money for your daily driver. People get fought up in brand loyalty instead of understanding that oil is primarily affected by heat cycles, fuel dilution and oxidation & shear wear, and not by miles driven. An oil with 2000 miles of a delivery vehicle that does all day idling and stop and go driving may mean more worn than someone who does 200 miles freeway driving daily and has 8k miles. Always use the weight specified by the automaker and do not deviate from it. Today’s tight tolerances and VCT engines need correct viscosity or engine damage will occur. No need to add additives either.
If you are driving a race car, such as something with 700 hp and 12k rpm, then you need to worry about group 4 or 5 oils otherwise you are wasting your time and money. Your Toyota Camry or dodge 1500 hauling grocers or going to work and back at 55 mph does not need group 4 or 5 even though you love your car and “feel” that it will benefit from it 😂😂
Bingo. Unless you own a Porsche or Ferrari. It's not necessary to use a high performance synthetic oil but since shell helix ultra 5w40 (Porsche and Ferrari approved) is way cheaper and has a better formulation than amsoil, then why not
Changed oil is great oil🤷🏽♂️
Whatever oil you prefer, yes changing your oil is a good thing.
Mobile 1 full synthetic is not that good period. It doesn't even compare to amsoil.
I share the same opinion. My experience with Mobil 1 in the past hasn't been impressive.
3000 miles man you wasting your money blackstone can tell you that. Ask for how long you can run your oil for. If you switched to Amsoil, you probably can push over 7000 but since you’re already scared to go past three you could probably go 5000
@@dkh100 I change my oil every 5k after switching to Amsoil.
Not enough sound.
in wear metal no diff.
No oil is better. Oil is same thing Time to change is same thing.
Add packs vary from oil to oil as do base stocks
Not every oil is the same as formulations are different from company to company and oil offerings.
Who invented the combustion engine? Was it a Christian engineer? Does the principles in the Christian bible have tge power to make people more ingenious?honest question