Old saying you get what u pay for, and you will pay for said products but the money saved from potential engine failures and peace of mind is well worth it.👍😎
@@raulduke85 better for thermal control over the engine cooling system at lower engine rpm's. Mechanical is linear flow inline with rpm, elec is pulse width modulated not Rpm dependant..
Пользовался такой помпой, очень хорошие впечатления, также почувствовал прибавку мощности за счет того что не было потерь на штатную помпу приводимую зубчатым ремнем. Мотор крутился легче в более высокие обороты. Так же убирается термостат который по принципу работы этой помпы уже не нужен в моторе. Следствие чего улучшается циркуляция антифриза и охлаждение. Вообщем Спасибо Дейв Крейг!
omg.. im so interested in this... i want to learn more about it. how does it keep pressure in the block to keep cavitation down? is that what the pump duty cycle is for? and without a thermostat how are you keeping pressure in the block? is there a orifice plate being used? id like to use this in a vdrive boat and get rid of my cam driven water pump. i could also use this in a few of my vehicles.
16 AN fitting and hose? Single or double relay for each fan? Manual bypass? Can the mechanical pump work properly if it fails?or how much restriction does it create ? Thank you , There’s quite a few questions I have , I have already purchased the dual relay circuit, can that circuit be used with this as well? Thanks again...
That's an interesting idea! Have a flow switch or something to trigger a clutch system for the pully driving the the mechanical pump? Maybe downsize that pump for failsafe use only? (Will get you 100+ miles with conservative driving)
My EPW150 pump starts cavitating and I end up over heating. I have a very unique setup with a roots blown V8. I run a rear mount off road radiator and fans that can cool a trophy truck.
I have one of these on my car, the fan started to come on when I first started the car all of a sudden and I missed the fact that the display was not working because of the bright sun from having the roof off as it was positioned by the parcel shelf on the passenger side, I noticed the temperature on the dashboard went up very quickly which I did not notice straight away by the time i managed to pull over it was to late the engine head gasket has gone maybe more. It turned out to be a relay that had gone,I questioned this with the garage and they said that the relay controlled the electric fan but the fan was working, once I replaced the relay the display came back on but I had refilled the radiator after the overheating. Does the system leave the fan on when the pump stops working by default as the garage stated to me that the relay for the pump is under the water pump so I am puzzled by this. My future start up procedure will be to turn the ignition on before starting the engine to hear the pump push the water through.
Whats the opinions for a street driven weekender and sometimes daily? I've got an all cast iron Holden 304 in a VS, some minor mods, with mechanical viscous cooling fan setup and a 92 degree thermostat, in cold ambient temps under 15 degrees the car runs cold on the highway which is most of my driving, around low 80 degrees and even worse in negative temps we get in winter, thermostat is new and cooling system in good condition. Then in Melbourne in heavy traffic the car gets warm because the fan and water pump are only turning 800-1500 RPM at best while you slowly cruise through traffic and you can see the temp creep up. I'm thinking this may be a good idea combined with an electric thermofan conversion, because it could bring the water temperature up to operating temperature quicker in cold weather, and then at idle in hot weather in traffic the pump can flow much more than the mechanical pump where engine is only turning 800-1500 RPM. Whats the consensus for this type of situation? Car may hit the strip a few times a year but mostly just driven around the streets.
Empire Aussie hi, what Aussie made ecu AND data dash should we have run ? We are always keen to run Aussie products, but they also have to fit our budget and meet our requirements. Fueltech was the only one that did.
I wanna run this in a Mad Max car that has a 390 Ford V8 with limited space in the front so I want to run ABS pipe to the trunk and have the radiator directly under the package tray with electric fans. I can I use this pump instead of the actual mechanical pump and leave the mechanical pump inert (with no pulley on it) and run solely off of this electric pump?
have been running one of these pumps on my daily for 5+years. have had one pump die but upon inspection (disassembled it instead of bitching and trying to get my money back) found that the sealing to provent water getting to the motor bearings is totaly inadequate for the application. never the less i still run these pumps today.
Electric water pumps are very common place at race tracks where there are some of the most expensive engines you will find. Lot of oem applications now also have electric water pumps over mechanical from factory. Vehicle manufactures will do with 'good enough' over 'best' when it comes down to cost, so you have to look at motivation as to why certain things are not done from an oem stand point.. If "best" costs more than something that does a good enough job for the most part, they will stick with the lowest cost option. (Great case in point is ford went to a waste spark multi coil system on the EF falcon. They found it the old distributor style system was cheaper to manufacture (and was probably easier to manage with LPG), so they went back to it in the EL instead of investing time to make the multi coil system work, which is now standard on pretty much every passenger vehicle. They stuck with an older system not because it was better, but because they could save money doing so).
Someone tell them to make bolt on kit for rb26dett.. I can guarantee they would sell like hot cakes. A adapter , or blokk of plate for the oem location. 2jz etc etc
Probably not a good idea to remove the thermostat as it is a restricted orifice to help pressurise the cooling galleries between it and the water pump. Removing the thermostat and the mechanical water pump will ensure you have hotspots and cavitation in the head. A mechanical pump will generate 40psi of coolant pressure which is what prevents the hot spots, remove the pump or thermostat and you’ll loose that pressure. Electric pumps are best used in conjunction with a good mechanical pump and thermostat, they flow well but don’t build pressure.
I would never want to remove the thermostat and never want the pump not flowing at any time to avoid hot spots. EWP seems like a good idea but not as the sole coolant temperature control
@@Dollsofgod heating builds pressure in the whole system but the pump builds additional pressure at it's outlet, otherwise the water wouldn't pump. Afaik cavitation occurs where there is a sudden drop in pressure, therefore if the thermostat provides a restriction after the head, the coolant in the head is maintained at a constant pressure. The pressure drop and therefore cavitation will occur at the thermostat instead. If the thermostat is removed then a pressure drop might occur at a restriction in the head, therefore cavitation occurs in the head.
A standalone electric water pump is only suitable for drag racing, for circuit, track, street car you need the mechanical pump and thermostat, the electric unit complements the system by allowing you to have it operating whilst the engine is shut off. If there’s no pressure in the block it will allow the superheated areas of the cylinder head to boil the coolant, if it’s boiling, that’s cavitation which will lead to cracking of the metal.
@@dinosshed ive used these in my own circuit car as mentioned in the video, as well as countless customers cars and all have been superior in every way compared to the oem mechanical pump in these applications. In some of the setups i have left the thermostat in place (but gutted) as some systems use the thermostat to block off an internal bypass, and was just easier this way.
I have had 2 of these electric waterpumps fail on me. First was replaced under warranty, the motor had seized. After investigation by me, I discovered the 'E' clip on the shaft had broken, (which is what the impeller is tightened against) allowing the shaft to spin without turning the impeller. Because the shaft was turning (for a while) the system showed it was working ok. The engine got warm, but didn't cook. The second had exactly the same thing happen, the 'E' clip broke and I cooked my engine. Davies Craig blamed the coolant I was using and wouldn't cover it. Very disappointing. I did not tamper with either pump in any way, and have over 40 years in the trade. I would not recommend them to anyone.
I was wanting to hear from someone with actual real world experience. Thanks. Confirms my suspicions. I would NOT hook this up to a 50k+ engine or anything of the sorts.
Greg Blank I’ve had them in customers cars for years now. These are all the modern type alloy body pumps as well. Some daily driven with no problems at all.
I was wondering about that. If it's moving more water, wouldn't it then be flowing too much and not get cooled enough by the radiator which then leads to overheating? Just like removing the thermostat or getting one that cracks too soon.
Please don't blame China... Chinese Navy build nuclear submarines, loaded with ballistic missiles, hahahahah. It's all about "you get what you paid for", and the brand that outsourcing the production to factories in China, and the particular brand that prefers cost-cutting over product quality and longevity.
China intentionally engineered a perfect political/economic/social situation for cheap production to flourish, and in terms of industrial, technological and financial development intentionally seeks to create a global monopoly on it. Hence (up until very recently) the almost non existant environmental oversight, the more recently the three child act, most obviously pioneering the (admittedly very effective and kind of brilliant in an orwellian way) unique economic system of inward communism and external capitalism complemented by the collectivist social philosophy that is forced into being the popular belief through the educational and corporate systems, the social point system that may as well be straight out of 1984 (actually it basically is straight out of it's Russian predecessor, We).... they saw the relaties of capitalism and more importantly where it's weaknesses could be exploited to turn the interests of western corporations against the long term interests of their respective countries, and purposely built these things as the backbone of the totally remade 'new China' after straight communism inevitably failed there. sooo its pretty fair to say anything out of China, physical or not, is an intentional aspect of what is essentially a plan to dominate the world. It's silly to suggest that its somehow offensive to say that a fan produced there is flimsy. And of course anything military is always going to be as high end and over engineered as humanly possible, after all it's how the very most powerful people and institutions stay that way so no expense or effort spared in any case. A little fan for a commuter car thats maybe not even driven there, not so much
A water pump is not a water pump until it can push water UPHILL. This means can this alleged pump brag about its ability in head pressure. How high can it push water, which is essential as engines have very restrictive water passages. The ability to push water along a straight line in litres per minute does NOT prove its ability to push through a restriction.
I have this pump on my small truck that runs a Nissan TD27 NA. It can't keep up with it and I am having major over heating issues. Its been test so many times its down the the dam pump. Its only good for 60 kph then it over heats. There is also alot of things in the controller that can't be adjusted to suit your engine. Biggest POS I've ever brought, 1 out of 10. Don't waiste your money on this Junk.
*115 litres per minute. (Not hour as I said ☺️ )
Enough of the dog barking!!!
so you dont sell them on your website anymore??
Can't recommend the Davies Craig electric water pump enough. I just gave myself an enema with one and it was ace. 10/10
What pulse width did you use?
I hope it was with distilled water
Roberto Francis soft water , you mean right?
😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣
when your cars water pump needs a freakin LCD display to set it up. What a time to be alive
Can I use this water pump on my daily driver????
Old saying you get what u pay for, and you will pay for said products but the money saved from potential engine failures and peace of mind is well worth it.👍😎
How an electrical pump is safer than a mechanic 1?😅
@@raulduke85 better for thermal control over the engine cooling system at lower engine rpm's. Mechanical is linear flow inline with rpm, elec is pulse width modulated not Rpm dependant..
@@carbonharmonics an electrical pump can fail easier, then u just throw away your engine
@@raulduke85 wrong
@@raulduke85broo what are you talking about? Electric water is even easier to work with
Prolly a frequent question, is this a cooling mod for a daily driver? 2011 mustang gt
Пользовался такой помпой, очень хорошие впечатления, также почувствовал прибавку мощности за счет того что не было потерь на штатную помпу приводимую зубчатым ремнем. Мотор крутился легче в более высокие обороты. Так же убирается термостат который по принципу работы этой помпы уже не нужен в моторе. Следствие чего улучшается циркуляция антифриза и охлаждение. Вообщем Спасибо Дейв Крейг!
5 years later and still giving Gearheads the info they need. You gotz to love that. Thank you. Cheers from So.Ca.USA 3rd House On the Left
omg.. im so interested in this... i want to learn more about it. how does it keep pressure in the block to keep cavitation down? is that what the pump duty cycle is for? and without a thermostat how are you keeping pressure in the block? is there a orifice plate being used? id like to use this in a vdrive boat and get rid of my cam driven water pump. i could also use this in a few of my vehicles.
That damn dog in the background. Cool video thanks for sharing.
Very Australian touch that was
16 AN fitting and hose? Single or double relay for each fan? Manual bypass? Can the mechanical pump work properly if it fails?or how much restriction does it create ? Thank you , There’s quite a few questions I have , I have already purchased the dual relay circuit, can that circuit be used with this as well? Thanks again...
That's an interesting idea! Have a flow switch or something to trigger a clutch system for the pully driving the the mechanical pump? Maybe downsize that pump for failsafe use only? (Will get you 100+ miles with conservative driving)
Do you make 1 for my 2007 hummer h3 with inline 5 cylinder?
My EPW150 pump starts cavitating and I end up over heating. I have a very unique setup with a roots blown V8. I run a rear mount off road radiator and fans that can cool a trophy truck.
Well that sounds shitty. Hopefully you've fixed that
Is this electric water pumps suitable for daily use or racing only?
Will this work on a 4.7 dodge ram v8
I have one of these on my car, the fan started to come on when I first started the car all of a sudden and I missed the fact that the display was not working because of the bright sun from having the roof off as it was positioned by the parcel shelf on the passenger side, I noticed the temperature on the dashboard went up very quickly which I did not notice straight away by the time i managed to pull over it was to late the engine head gasket has gone maybe more.
It turned out to be a relay that had gone,I questioned this with the garage and they said that the relay controlled the electric fan but the fan was working, once I replaced the relay the display
came back on but I had refilled the radiator after the overheating.
Does the system leave the fan on when the pump stops working by default as the garage stated to me that the relay for the pump is under the water pump so I am puzzled by this.
My future start up procedure will be to turn the ignition on before starting the engine to hear the pump push the water through.
Whats the opinions for a street driven weekender and sometimes daily? I've got an all cast iron Holden 304 in a VS, some minor mods, with mechanical viscous cooling fan setup and a 92 degree thermostat, in cold ambient temps under 15 degrees the car runs cold on the highway which is most of my driving, around low 80 degrees and even worse in negative temps we get in winter, thermostat is new and cooling system in good condition.
Then in Melbourne in heavy traffic the car gets warm because the fan and water pump are only turning 800-1500 RPM at best while you slowly cruise through traffic and you can see the temp creep up.
I'm thinking this may be a good idea combined with an electric thermofan conversion, because it could bring the water temperature up to operating temperature quicker in cold weather, and then at idle in hot weather in traffic the pump can flow much more than the mechanical pump where engine is only turning 800-1500 RPM.
Whats the consensus for this type of situation? Car may hit the strip a few times a year but mostly just driven around the streets.
Turbo charge me watah? Sign me up!
Do i need this display if i have a standalone, digital display and can bus keyboard?
Friend: "How much boost are you running?"
Me: 12.6 volts
That's what I was looking for. Thanks for the info. Now if the company would give me a download able cad 3D model to fit in my design. Thanks
Good review, liked the mention of being Aussie designed and importantly, MADE. Unlile the Fueltech which you have plastered everywhere.
Empire Aussie hi, what Aussie made ecu AND data dash should we have run ? We are always keen to run Aussie products, but they also have to fit our budget and meet our requirements. Fueltech was the only one that did.
I wanna run this in a Mad Max car that has a 390 Ford V8 with limited space in the front so I want to run ABS pipe to the trunk and have the radiator directly under the package tray with electric fans.
I can I use this pump instead of the actual mechanical pump and leave the mechanical pump inert (with no pulley on it) and run solely off of this electric pump?
You take the mechanical off and put on the adapter plate on the front of the engine to run this one
have been running one of these pumps on my daily for 5+years. have had one pump die but upon inspection (disassembled it instead of bitching and trying to get my money back) found that the sealing to provent water getting to the motor bearings is totaly inadequate for the application. never the less i still run these pumps today.
Its been 5 years - you still using these pumps?
@@bobolulu7615😂I think the peirburg cwa400 is where it’s at now
are those deutsch plugs rated for those amps ? i thought they were 13amp max
OOFSPEC the main feeds are 25A size 12 DTP connectors
@@BackyardMechanics thanks man. now ill use the right ones second time around in my car :P
@@BackyardMechanics hence the question haha
I agree with 90 percent of Dinos shed decription. If electric pumps were really good, you would see them on really good engines.
What happened to your Supercars bench torque?????
Electric water pumps are very common place at race tracks where there are some of the most expensive engines you will find. Lot of oem applications now also have electric water pumps over mechanical from factory. Vehicle manufactures will do with 'good enough' over 'best' when it comes down to cost, so you have to look at motivation as to why certain things are not done from an oem stand point.. If "best" costs more than something that does a good enough job for the most part, they will stick with the lowest cost option. (Great case in point is ford went to a waste spark multi coil system on the EF falcon. They found it the old distributor style system was cheaper to manufacture (and was probably easier to manage with LPG), so they went back to it in the EL instead of investing time to make the multi coil system work, which is now standard on pretty much every passenger vehicle. They stuck with an older system not because it was better, but because they could save money doing so).
Someone tell them to make bolt on kit for rb26dett.. I can guarantee they would sell like hot cakes. A adapter , or blokk of plate for the oem location. 2jz etc etc
Can you just hook up positive and negative and call it good?
When u tell your gf your going to buy a “water pump” but instead buy a behemoth precision
Or a twin turbo set up
Probably not a good idea to remove the thermostat as it is a restricted orifice to help pressurise the cooling galleries between it and the water pump. Removing the thermostat and the mechanical water pump will ensure you have hotspots and cavitation in the head. A mechanical pump will generate 40psi of coolant pressure which is what prevents the hot spots, remove the pump or thermostat and you’ll loose that pressure. Electric pumps are best used in conjunction with a good mechanical pump and thermostat, they flow well but don’t build pressure.
I've never heard anything like this before. I thought the heat would be the main element that builds pressure in the cooling system?
I would never want to remove the thermostat and never want the pump not flowing at any time to avoid hot spots. EWP seems like a good idea but not as the sole coolant temperature control
@@Dollsofgod heating builds pressure in the whole system but the pump builds additional pressure at it's outlet, otherwise the water wouldn't pump. Afaik cavitation occurs where there is a sudden drop in pressure, therefore if the thermostat provides a restriction after the head, the coolant in the head is maintained at a constant pressure. The pressure drop and therefore cavitation will occur at the thermostat instead. If the thermostat is removed then a pressure drop might occur at a restriction in the head, therefore cavitation occurs in the head.
A standalone electric water pump is only suitable for drag racing, for circuit, track, street car you need the mechanical pump and thermostat, the electric unit complements the system by allowing you to have it operating whilst the engine is shut off. If there’s no pressure in the block it will allow the superheated areas of the cylinder head to boil the coolant, if it’s boiling, that’s cavitation which will lead to cracking of the metal.
@@dinosshed ive used these in my own circuit car as mentioned in the video, as well as countless customers cars and all have been superior in every way compared to the oem mechanical pump in these applications. In some of the setups i have left the thermostat in place (but gutted) as some systems use the thermostat to block off an internal bypass, and was just easier this way.
I have had 2 of these electric waterpumps fail on me. First was replaced under warranty, the motor had seized. After investigation by me, I discovered the 'E' clip on the shaft had broken, (which is what the impeller is tightened against) allowing the shaft to spin without turning the impeller. Because the shaft was turning (for a while) the system showed it was working ok. The engine got warm, but didn't cook.
The second had exactly the same thing happen, the 'E' clip broke and I cooked my engine. Davies Craig blamed the coolant I was using and wouldn't cover it. Very disappointing. I did not tamper with either pump in any way, and have over 40 years in the trade. I would not recommend them to anyone.
I was wanting to hear from someone with actual real world experience. Thanks. Confirms my suspicions. I would NOT hook this up to a 50k+ engine or anything of the sorts.
Greg Blank I’ve had them in customers cars for years now. These are all the modern type alloy body pumps as well. Some daily driven with no problems at all.
Hi, I am curious about your problem, can I ask what were the models with which you had problems ?
Do a comparison test with Pierburg CWA water pumps, and be amazed. Davies Craig doesn't look all that great anymore.
If you're to this level on a efi vehicle you'll probably be better off controlling this with your stand alone ecu
You still need a better radiator if not this is pointless .
False.
@@mikdonalds3956 and how would you know . Troll
@@mikdonalds3956 i bet you liked your own comment too .
I was wondering about that. If it's moving more water, wouldn't it then be flowing too much and not get cooled enough by the radiator which then leads to overheating? Just like removing the thermostat or getting one that cracks too soon.
@@MV60 no because the pump doesnt run continuously to modulates flow based on temp.
Please don't blame China... Chinese Navy build nuclear submarines, loaded with ballistic missiles, hahahahah.
It's all about "you get what you paid for", and the brand that outsourcing the production to factories in China, and the particular brand that prefers cost-cutting over product quality and longevity.
China intentionally engineered a perfect political/economic/social situation for cheap production to flourish, and in terms of industrial, technological and financial development intentionally seeks to create a global monopoly on it. Hence (up until very recently) the almost non existant environmental oversight, the more recently the three child act, most obviously pioneering the (admittedly very effective and kind of brilliant in an orwellian way) unique economic system of inward communism and external capitalism complemented by the collectivist social philosophy that is forced into being the popular belief through the educational and corporate systems, the social point system that may as well be straight out of 1984 (actually it basically is straight out of it's Russian predecessor, We).... they saw the relaties of capitalism and more importantly where it's weaknesses could be exploited to turn the interests of western corporations against the long term interests of their respective countries, and purposely built these things as the backbone of the totally remade 'new China' after straight communism inevitably failed there. sooo its pretty fair to say anything out of China, physical or not, is an intentional aspect of what is essentially a plan to dominate the world. It's silly to suggest that its somehow offensive to say that a fan produced there is flimsy. And of course anything military is always going to be as high end and over engineered as humanly possible, after all it's how the very most powerful people and institutions stay that way so no expense or effort spared in any case. A little fan for a commuter car thats maybe not even driven there, not so much
A water pump is not a water pump until it can push water UPHILL. This means can this alleged pump brag about its ability in head pressure. How high can it push water, which is essential as engines have very restrictive water passages. The ability to push water along a straight line in litres per minute does NOT prove its ability to push through a restriction.
Especially with the high heat and small spaces of rotorys
I have this pump on my small truck that runs a Nissan TD27 NA. It can't keep up with it and I am having major over heating issues. Its been test so many times its down the the dam pump. Its only good for 60 kph then it over heats. There is also alot of things in the controller that can't be adjusted to suit your engine. Biggest POS I've ever brought, 1 out of 10. Don't waiste your money on this Junk.