How to Remove a Mercury Power Trim From Your Boat!
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- In today's video I'll show you how to remove a Mercury power trim from your boat, and it's actually not very difficult! In a previous video, we went through the easy process of topping up your trim oil if your power trim motor is engaging but nothing is moving up or down. I also recommended the Lucas Oil Hydraulic Oil Booster to help stop any tiny leaks but now my trim seals are totally gone and leaking badly, so it's time to remove the trim and get it repaired or replaced.
My Mercury power trim is model 8M0055011 and was very simple to remove and I discuss different options for fixing it. In my case, I decided to test out the services of Five Star Marine in Florida, one of the most popular power trim repair shops in the US (I couldn't even find one in Canada). These guys have 2 - 5 day turnarounds and completely rebuild the trim and offer a 2 year warranty for the same price as buying a used one off eBay. You can check them out at: five-star-marine.myshopify.com/
I'll be sure to post an update and let you guys know how my power trim repair went with Five Star!
You can find my original trim oil video at: • How to (Maybe) Fix you...
Please note you should install new trilobe pins when you re-install your trim. The trilobe pins for my Mercury power trim are part number 17-821539 available at: amzn.to/3scOZzM
You can also buy this trim assembly brand new, but be warned they are very expensive: www.boats.net/product/mercury...
(¯`·._.· VIDEO CHAPTERS ·._.·´¯)
0:00 Introduction
1:40 Why a Rebuild
3:13 Disconnecting the trim
6:04 Moving the Outboard
7:26 Removing the Trim
11:38 Conclusion
Please remember to pound that like button and subscribe to the channel and help it grow! All the very best and tight lines :)
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Thanks Dan, that video was very helpful to me after i figured my trim cylinder had a crack due to a broken seal. Water seeped in and froze in winter time and voila, cracked the cylinder. And i had no clue whatsoever what to do. Thought i have to take the whole bracket apart. The five bucks is of course nothing compared what your video saved me on money for a dealership.
Again, thank you.
Thanks mate, really helped me pull off the trim
Honestly, this was much easier than I thought it would be! This is why I always tell people don't be afraid to learn how to fix things yourself, it's often not as difficult as we think it is. I assume that folks with trims exposed to saltwater have a much harder time getting those pins out. Hope this video was helpful, take care everyone!
The outboard God's were with you on this one. Good thing we live in fresh water areas
😂😂😂 I'll take whatever help I can get!
Dude you are AWESOME HELPED ME BIG TIME
Came off easily.good job Dan.👍
Thanks John, and yes it was really easy!
This video was super helpful. Thank you so much. On my 115 optimax, the top pin came out easy but the bottom pin would not budge. Had to remove the entire trim bracket and cut away the bottom of the housing with a rotary cutting wheel before the pin finally broke loose. I found a complete new aftermarket assembly for $670. It was a breeze to install.
Great video!
Thank you sir!
Great video, I have a low hour 2014 all freshwater 115 and it works but sounds like it is cavitating internally vs the smoother hydraulic whine that is normal... I may be due and I will try 5 star, They are close by...
No sledge hammer... no application of C4... no wrenches thrown across the garage... definitely an easy job right there Dan!... Lol
😂😂😂 I thought I'd do something different for a change 🤭
Great video, my upper trilobe pin was broken in the rounded portion only the top came out about 3/8in of it. Its been broken for awhile the break was black and had oil on it, any suggestions how to remove the rest of it?
Thank you, this helped make removal easy. Still happy with Five Star? We are thinking of sending one in to them.
Awesome, glad it helped! It was easier than I thought to be honest, it's pulling the wires through that was the biggest headache. Still super happy with the 5 Star job, it's working perfectly :)
Hi Dan, thanks for this video. Can you help with some advice? Ive to replace the trim motor on my 60 merc. The two allen bolts at the rear are tricky to get to. Would it work to just take the pin out of the top of the ram to tilt the unit forward enough to reach them more easily? Thanks from over the pond!
Thanks for the video, very helpful, because I didn't know how to remove the two pins from the hydraulic lifter....
But, your engine seems to be new !! Do you only sail in fresh water ?
My lower unit , propeller and trim motor are severely corroded, it seems that the anodes are not doing their job, they are almost intact while the lower unit and the propeller are very corroded, and I have too fix it ...
I did this repair way easier my way. I tried it Dan’s way but failed because my 1994 Merc was far too corroded from saltwater to slide anything with ease. I stopped after a while and found an easier way cause all I needed to do is change the motor. I posted a short about it on my page. Check it out. Thanks Dan, you gave me the confidence.
My cylinder cracked, I just ordered only the cylinder. Is it gonna be simple to separate the cylinder and the pump?
Hi Dan I am going to try the Lucas how much do you use in your trim unit? Did you drain all the fluid and fill it all with Lucas or mix it with your fluid?
Thanks
Jim
Hi everyone, after some advice, tilt and trim works fine on land and when stationary/slow in the water it works fine, but when going along at speed it just doesn't want to trim up properly! Would replacing the motor sort this? Many thanks
Just got mine rebuild for $39.99
Yes, under 50 bucks! Took me longer to take the unit out than the shop to rebuild it.
SD California.
Yeah that's not normal and there's no way they replaced any parts other than the o rings. I don't know how much I would trust a $50 trim rebuild but if it's working good for you, sweet deal!
@@DanRichardFishing it really depends on what the problem is. If the pump is working fine and the only issue is a leak on the top where the ram slides in an out .... all that is needed is O-Ring kit. However if the pump is having functional problems other than the leak, it is more involved. Five Star wasnts anywhere from $525 to $850 to do the job depending on what hard parts are needed. At the high end, they are usually having to replace the motor as well as they rebuild the pump. You are paying for that warranty. ............ I actually bought a used assembly for $500 which came with a one year warranty, and this left me with the removed unit that needed a motor. I just finished replacing the motor so I have a spare unit. I have twin outboards so having a spare is not a bad idea. ..... Just realized the one I did not replace on the boat is leaking out of the top seal. So the spare is ready to be replaced ... and I will repair the leaking one. Leaky one works fine, just irritates me that it is leaking a bit.
Removing the entire assembly, bracket included may be necessary if the anchor pin, the one on the bottom is seized inside the bottom of the pump assembly. If the ancho pin is seized and no amount of banging is getting it out, cut the unit out from the bracket. You do this by using an Oscillating Multi-Tool with a carbide blade. It cuts through that pin on both side of the pump assy, inside the bracket. Once you have it cut out, then you can attack the seized pin. We found it necessary to drill holes into the pin, several and this helps to release the pin from the base. If you have to go through this, it is not easy .... take a lot of time and finess. ...... I cannot strees enough the importance of greasing up the inside of where the pin will go back into and the pin itself. ....... Before reassembly I cleaned the inside of the hole where the pin goes through using some 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper.
I had the bottom pin seize on me. I had to remove the entire bracket and had to cut the bottom out of the pump unit with a dremel in order to get the pin out.
i get issue with my mercury 60hp titlle handle..so tight to move left and right..how to sattle it...please help me..thanks..frm malaysia.
I'm having trouble finding a part number for my trim motor. It's a 94 tracker pro 18 with a 60 Mariner
Hi Derek, thank you for subscribing! You can actually usually look this up with the model number of your outboard as they are specifically matched. That's actually how I found mine. If you're still having trouble, send me a DM on Facebook or Instagram and I'll try to help you further :)
Oh ok it looked kinda tight.it was a good video
Can you re-use the trilobe pins or do you have to replace them with new ?
I reused mine with no problems at all but it is recommended you replace them. Mine were still very tight and had to be tapped back in with a mallet.
@@DanRichardFishing Ok thanks very much.
Man i thought i had to remove the three bolts also and ended up ringing one off ,man.. but if those pins a stuck u r in for a real battle ..
Yeah in other videos I noticed people were removing them but I did not at all and thankfully the pins came off easy. I think it's people that use their boats in saltwater that have the serious corrosion issues.
The only time you want a log touching your motor.. lol
LOL exactly!
Mine is stuck in full down and will not move even with the manual valve removed
Sounds like yours is totally seized up, might need to take that in to a shop to get it moving. Has it been leaking fluid?
@@DanRichardFishing no leaks but was sitting for 9 years on my pontoon
You should have taped a string to your wires before you pulled them then you could have just connected it back and pulled them back thru when putting it back
It's super simple to pass the wires through without a string, what's complicated is the rubber grommet trying to get that back in place. 😱
How was the rebuild from 5star
Super happy with it, it's working perfectly and no leaks of any kind so really pleased with the service and way way cheaper than brand new lol!
When my motor is trimmed up while out of water, the motor gradually lowers and won’t stay up. Any suggestions?
When you push down on the motor, does it drop even faster? Sounds like you might need to replace your manual release valve on the trim. It may be letting out pressure with a slight leak. You might also want to check and make sure it's closed all the way (you just use a regular flat head screw driver).
@@DanRichardFishing Man oh man! Your last comment about checking tightness of manual release valve with a screwdriver just saved me a bundle of time and cash. I was about to tear the unit off for a rebuild when I found your video showing how to. Thanks a thousand times!!
@@LarryD683 it's not a bad idea to replace that relief valve .... but yeah it has to be tight.
@@DanRichardFishingI just found out having the same problem did you find out what is the cause? Thx
It didn't help me to on do the cow
“Whack it a bunch”
We spent 3 hours trying to take out the pin💀
Penetrating oil, break away
Jackhammer/air hammer
Sledgehammer
Regular hammer, custom made flat chisels and finally it came out
had same issue ..... we used an oscillating mult-tool with a carbide blade to cut the pin on both sides between the bracket and bottom of the pump assembly. The pins get seized inside the pump assembly if not assembled with a lot of grease. Once we had the pump out of the bracket, we went to work on the seized pin. I drilled a series of holes into the pin and this helped, one tech said it allows the pin to release .... but we still had to use a lot of penetrating oil and grease. I started out with one small hole in the center of the pin, and stepped up bit sizes several times, almost to the point were we drilled out most of the pin. From that point on, getting it out was easy.
@@harcosparky for us the only thing that worked was a flattened chisel with a regular hammer, somehow the sledge hammer doesnt even nudge it, but regular small one did, woulda gave my cousin anti seize to use but he installed before i could suggest the anti seize i have, guess I’ll have to wait to next time
@@redman4life91 we found that drilling a hole in the center .... but not all the way through was the trick. Hole drilled about 70% through, then we inserted a punch and used a hammer to get it out.
@@harcosparky yeeaaaa i don think my cousin would do that since he doesnt want to change the pin
if you can hear the motor running in the tilt and there are no holes, you have an o ring problem, take the tilt off, open it up and take the old o rings to an industrial hydraulic seal company, get replacements, switch, voila, probably only cost you 5-50 bucks, i did it on my 94 125 Merc elpto, symptoms, wouldnt lift up, oil leaking from top where stainless piston comes out of tilt, i just changed my 'washer o ring' that keeps the fluid in, lots of vids to reference, like this one ,ua-cam.com/video/61W_0cLc1qw/v-deo.html, another time i cross threaded the fill screw for the tilt, so it didnt work, it leaked inside, had to take apart the tilt motor and remove plastic shavings that were not allowing the orings to fully seal
so lucus didnt work when being lazy lmao