When friends ask to explain prop selection, I usually say that a prop pitch number is like a gear in a car with manual transmission. The lower the number - the more load you will take on plane and accelerate faster, but overrev the motor and only have that much speed. The higher the number - the faster you go, but the longer it takes to get there, also your motor might not have enough hp to spin it to desired rpm with bigger load weight. Just like a loaded car in a 5-th gear on a manual might not get up the hill, while cruising fine on the highway. The rest of the prop parameters, like diameter, blades, rake, cup and ventilation holes usually do not interest the average boat owner like at all. They usually ask either for a top speed, or what prop do I need to plane with that many friends and family onboard.
Dude! as always, informational GOLD! I went from an aluminum 18 pitch/14.25 diameter to an aluminum 21-14.5 on my old I/O and way increased my fuel economy, and I mean by a good 25%, played with the twin Evinrudes, but I'm feeling pretty pretty good with the current set up with 19 pitch 14.25 as an all around prop, getting an average of about 1.9 to 2.2 MPG and still being able to hit 45 MPH when I trim up and mash the throttle seems a good compromise. I just don't see the value in changing out stainless props on motors that I intend to replace down the road, when the Props cost as much as they do and I need two. You can bet I will be doing some serious research when I repower, still not wasting money on Sharrow props,
Hi there..your fellow mechanic from Sweden😎next topic on propellers would be the cavitation problem...explain to your customers how cavitation can ruin a very good expensive prop..also explain the difference between the Cleaver and most of the props that are not surface cutting props and when to use them..also I would like to see a video where you explain having multiple outboards on..talk about getting clean water to the prop and what kind of rotation you should use...inwards or outwards..that is extremely important on your setup for best perfomance..and not forget the more popular conversions nowadays are now getting a bracket 3 ft back and how that will affect the total setup...looking forward to the next episode..best regards from Sweden
Excellent. I knew I had an issue with my 2003 Key West 22cc. I repowered with a 2023 Mercury 200. Top RPM barely hit 4900 with a top speed of 28MPH (barely). The dealer put a 15" x 15" stainless steel prop on it. With the tools described, its pointing me to a 13.6" Diameter x 21" pitch. Holy cow that's different. Going to do some testing. Marina mechanic said I should hit 42-45 MPH with this Mercury 200. We'll see! \
I remember when GPS came out changing everything. With a fuel transducer you could dial it in for efficiency at idle or wot using the trim and jackplate. I started saving a lot of fuel but one of the best mods was having Bob's modify the lower unit with a nose cone and low water pickup. Elongating the lower unit moves the area of clean water further back so the prop is running in cleaner water.. With a 22' CC and 250 I went from 56 to 63 mph and 15-20 % less fuel. It seemed more planted with less cavitation turning. too. I tried a lot of props and was really suprised how different props in the same size/pitch from different manufacturers can feel so different. I know a lot of places let you test drive props for a day or two for free so imo worth it to try a few.
Years ago I had a conversation with a "prop expert" at a boat show so I asked him to recommend a prop. He asked about the boat, 23' cuddy, 5000 lbs, with a 240hp Cobra I/O. He said "with this prop you'll hit 40-45MPH and about 3 MPG at cruise." I asked him what it would take to get closer to 50MPH and over 4MPG, his answer was "a different boat." I showed him photos of my chart plotter showing full speed at 48 and cruise at over 4MPG, that shut him up.
Propping a boat correctly is really an artform and usually takes some trial and error. When folks ask what prop to run on their boat it's not as simple as just looking up a part number.
That makes total sense about the body of water and it's water content actually effecting your fuel economy as well as water conditions. Add that to your choice of prop and there's quite a bit to consider.
I see used props on marketplace. Having blown the rubber hub on ours I wonder if that’s why some of those have been replaced. They’re not expensive new. (Relatively) so I wouldn’t go used unless I knew the seller and prop’s history
Being a marine mechanic and a boater , the most common mistake I see from boaters is the lack of trim they apply to get the bow up (less wetted surface) and to get the optimal RPMS .. When it comes to Bass tournament fisherman, cost is always backseat from a hole shot!! A fisherman will sacrifice a little top end speed to get that boat in front of the pack.. so going to a 25” pitch prop versus a 27” pitch prop mabe the play.
I just put a 140 hp Siemens electric motor in a 27" tri hull fiberglass work boat. I use the boat for dock construction in Montana. Any thoughts on prop selection with the different powerband of an electric motor? I often load the boat with a bunk of lumber and lots of tools maybe 6-8 thousand pounds. The old Mercruiser 165 straight six did a decent job of planing up and going a couple of miles to work, but the Montana temperatures killed it a few times.
i bought a used 20hp mercury 4 stroke Crestliner aluminum bass boat for local lake that has 20 hp limit this model did not have all the gauges like speed fuel and rpm but they do make same boat and model with gauges is there an easy way to add a tachometer or speedometer to the boat i tried small electronic tach and it sucked it was not accurate and said to calibrate it with another tachometer
Yeah, without adding the harness and a tach, that's the best way, otherwise you have to jerry rig something to pull tach info from the harness on the engine :/
I've been pretty happy with the 13x19k Yamaha OEM prop on my 130 Saltwater series half cab. Boat will reach 73km/h (perhaps a smidge more with trimming it up more) and sits at around 5700rpm. I'm sure if I fiddled around I could get a better prop for hole-shot or top speed, sacrificing one or the other. I do like both the current acceleration and top speed, so I'm unwilling to really sacrifice either unless I could find a prop that gives gains in both.
More terrific info! Have you ever tested composite props? I have an SS and back up aluminum for mine( both 3 blade), but have considered getting a composite 4 blade to see if it makes a difference...
You can’t be serious… different lower units have different gear ratios which is going to have a major play in what prop works best for your setup. Nearly impossible to suggest anything that would be a worthwhile upgrade for you based on the parameters you’ve given. Hell you didn’t say what prop you’re running now and what performance aspects you’re seeing out of it. So I recommend you talk to your boat shop and see what they say. Or really get some performance stats of your current prop and see what you’d like to change about it. and then start shopping for new props from there based on what you want to change. Some of it is trial and error.
Its not all about going fast. If you are fishing alot and not one of those guys that run 70 mph to get to a fishing hole, then your not needing all that pitch. You will be coming out of the hole more frequently. If you transport several fishermen or a family on board, all that speed is wasted. that is unless you are reckless & crazy.
Hi, it's Rose! I'm helping Aaron with comments. What an excellent topic! It's getting featured on our podcast soon. Haven't checked it out? Subscribe now: www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
@@BornAgainBoating I am also interested in the Sharrow Props too. Maybe test them on a Boston Whaler Outrage or Ventura 210 9 Its a heavy 21 3300 lbs /5000lbs loaded. Boat sits high so performance should be easy to monitor. IMHO
I got an outrage 250 I didn't seem like I was getting good RPM last season on twin verados I got to see you again this season. Supposed to be 6,000 6,400 rpm as full throttle and I don't think I was getting that high. But I do keep the boat full of fuel due to the garbage ethanol that we have to buy here in New York @danconn2065
Sir my name is Ivan Viera. I have a question. I have this mobile mechanic come by my house so he can check my boat . I have a 2 stroke Yamaha 150 TXRZ. He throttled my engine real high and bring it down. Do you think my engine would it suffer because of this action . Please let me know. 4:46
Hello there! Rose speaking, and I'm thankful for your comment! Unfortunately, I can't provide the answer you're seeking right now. We believe it's best to discuss these specific types of questions one-on-one. That's why we've launched a channel membership for weekly live discussions. If you're interested, simply click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Much appreciated & have a great day!
Excellent lesson on Props! Thank you. Ihave a Boston Whaler venura 210( 3300lbs) dual console w a Optimax 200HP DFI. I have a 15/15p Stainless. I have decent performance but cannot find the factory recommended Prop for this boat and motor? Heavy boat and I am thinking about an aluminum 4 blade for sk/wake use( Faster hole shot?) any experience or thoughts?
Hi, This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, this is a great question and I'll put this on the list for featuring on the podcast! If you haven't already, check it out and subscribe! www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Love your videos, but the background music/beat is very annoying and distracting. It makes it very difficult for hearing impaired people (myself) to follow along. Thanks for the great information.
If it's molded, good luck, that is insanely hard and I can't do that but some can, if it's just sand on nonskid, you just shake it on when you roll the gel coat :)
First off l, been watching your videos for a while now and found them super helpful after having purchased an old mako 20 with an 97’ evinrude 200. I have managed to service or repair a lot of components on the motor that have saved me lots of cash and given me experience and time on the water. Thank you. That said my tachometer has never worked and the one that was on the boat when I bought it actually caught fire so I replaced but have never got readings that made sense. Do you have a video I can reference to try and figure out the problem with my tach. My tach jump around like crazy when I start the motor. Once I get going it either reads 0 or on occasion it will read between 1000-2000 regardless where the throttle is. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi! Rose here, appreciate your comment! Sadly, I can't provide the exact answer you're looking for. We prefer to tackle these types of questions on a personal level. We have a channel membership offering weekly live discussions for such queries. If you're intrigued, simply press the "Join" button next to our channel name. Thank you for considering!
I am definitely not an expert, this guy knows his stuff, but as rule of thumb, and I boat about 250 hours a year average, I listen to the engine, I try to find where she is purring like a kitten. Peace
Hi, This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, this is a great topic and I'll put this on the list for featuring on the podcast! If you haven't already, check it out and subscribe! www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
I think I will just have three different props and see what runs fast. And what moves my boat in the lake and what keeps my boat up river.??? To many tree guy . To much tec for my brain lol. 😮
i have been running my 18ft zodiac with 90hp offshore, trim up or not, plane or not, there are no differences aside from handling. (too much bow up makes the speed lower too) could it be the boat itself is already so light i get planed regardless anyway?
You guys should try ceramic coating the non gripping surfaces of the prop. This would be most efficient, The gripping surfaces, open faces rear of the boat, they should be scuffed probably with a fine 3m pad, not polished, because the props supposedly grip. I think they would work better scuffed, because how would something super slippery propel itself through water, but like fish, it could be slippery yet, they shove large volumes of water around, with least effort. So maybe a fully ceramic coated prop would help. I will test it myself, I know the hull benefits 5 or so percent or more with having less water resistance.
@@fernandofolgueira5191 I wouldnt call it technology, like top secret super special super advanced material, I would look at it more like a very well engineered wax product, except its formulated to harden and cure, interlock and last for a very long time, not breaking down with uv or oxidation. Really the stuff is just high purity silicone oil, with a hardening agent for the silicone, a dissolved porous rock like material, and acids and solvents to keep the stuff in suspension and applicable. Some contain flourine solvents which is just stupid formulation and not safe, blatantly because some manufactueres get off to selling harmful products.
You know if you would just talk faster you could get more content in. I have to put you on slow mode just to process it all, LOL . Thanks for your knowledge.
I’d like to see you clean up your video some more your video too many pictures. I like to see you just talk. Your tone of voice needs to change. You sound like you’re trying to make us understand rather just talking lower your tone, some more you’re trying too hard what it sounds like to get your point across
saving $20 over a distance of 50 miles is significant. And its not just about saving a few dollars. increasing fuel economy is safer because you can run longer or go further on the same amount of gas. Your rule of thirds increases
When friends ask to explain prop selection, I usually say that a prop pitch number is like a gear in a car with manual transmission. The lower the number - the more load you will take on plane and accelerate faster, but overrev the motor and only have that much speed. The higher the number - the faster you go, but the longer it takes to get there, also your motor might not have enough hp to spin it to desired rpm with bigger load weight. Just like a loaded car in a 5-th gear on a manual might not get up the hill, while cruising fine on the highway. The rest of the prop parameters, like diameter, blades, rake, cup and ventilation holes usually do not interest the average boat owner like at all. They usually ask either for a top speed, or what prop do I need to plane with that many friends and family onboard.
Dude! as always, informational GOLD! I went from an aluminum 18 pitch/14.25 diameter to an aluminum 21-14.5 on my old I/O and way increased my fuel economy, and I mean by a good 25%, played with the twin Evinrudes, but I'm feeling pretty pretty good with the current set up with 19 pitch 14.25 as an all around prop, getting an average of about 1.9 to 2.2 MPG and still being able to hit 45 MPH when I trim up and mash the throttle seems a good compromise. I just don't see the value in changing out stainless props on motors that I intend to replace down the road, when the Props cost as much as they do and I need two. You can bet I will be doing some serious research when I repower, still not wasting money on Sharrow props,
Hi there..your fellow mechanic from Sweden😎next topic on propellers would be the cavitation problem...explain to your customers how cavitation can ruin a very good expensive prop..also explain the difference between the Cleaver and most of the props that are not surface cutting props and when to use them..also I would like to see a video where you explain having multiple outboards on..talk about getting clean water to the prop and what kind of rotation you should use...inwards or outwards..that is extremely important on your setup for best perfomance..and not forget the more popular conversions nowadays are now getting a bracket 3 ft back and how that will affect the total setup...looking forward to the next episode..best regards from Sweden
Here comes a thousand comments asking which prop dudes should get for their specific boat 🤣
You get the comment of the week award.
What prop should I use for a Bayliner Rendezvous with a 130 Yamaha?
I already looked that up I am using aluminum because there are to many rocks where I am at
Hey bro! What prop do i need for my boat? 😂
@@Boaters_hub That one!
As a boat owner, I absolutely LOVE this channel.
Thanks man.
Excellent. I knew I had an issue with my 2003 Key West 22cc. I repowered with a 2023 Mercury 200. Top RPM barely hit 4900 with a top speed of 28MPH (barely). The dealer put a 15" x 15" stainless steel prop on it. With the tools described, its pointing me to a 13.6" Diameter x 21" pitch. Holy cow that's different. Going to do some testing. Marina mechanic said I should hit 42-45 MPH with this Mercury 200. We'll see! \
I remember when GPS came out changing everything. With a fuel transducer you could dial it in for efficiency at idle or wot using the trim and jackplate. I started saving a lot of fuel but one of the best mods was having Bob's modify the lower unit with a nose cone and low water pickup. Elongating the lower unit moves the area of clean water further back so the prop is running in cleaner water.. With a 22' CC and 250 I went from 56 to 63 mph and 15-20 % less fuel. It seemed more planted with less cavitation turning. too. I tried a lot of props and was really suprised how different props in the same size/pitch from different manufacturers can feel so different. I know a lot of places let you test drive props for a day or two for free so imo worth it to try a few.
but the gear case would have a lot more drag?
Bottom line is the motor hp and boat weight/style really are the ultimate determiners because any prop must get you to the required top rpm!
Years ago I had a conversation with a "prop expert" at a boat show so I asked him to recommend a prop. He asked about the boat, 23' cuddy, 5000 lbs, with a 240hp Cobra I/O. He said "with this prop you'll hit 40-45MPH and about 3 MPG at cruise." I asked him what it would take to get closer to 50MPH and over 4MPG, his answer was "a different boat." I showed him photos of my chart plotter showing full speed at 48 and cruise at over 4MPG, that shut him up.
Propping a boat correctly is really an artform and usually takes some trial and error. When folks ask what prop to run on their boat it's not as simple as just looking up a part number.
In conclusion, you got a buy like 10 propellers and a test got it!
That makes total sense about the body of water and it's water content actually effecting your fuel economy as well as water conditions. Add that to your choice of prop and there's quite a bit to consider.
I see used props on marketplace. Having blown the rubber hub on ours I wonder if that’s why some of those have been replaced. They’re not expensive new. (Relatively) so I wouldn’t go used unless I knew the seller and prop’s history
Being a marine mechanic and a boater , the most common mistake I see from boaters is the lack of trim they apply to get the bow up (less wetted surface) and to get the optimal RPMS .. When it comes to Bass tournament fisherman, cost is always backseat from a hole shot!! A fisherman will sacrifice a little top end speed to get that boat in front of the pack.. so going to a 25” pitch prop versus a 27” pitch prop mabe the play.
zero trim is most efficient prop angle.
I just put a 140 hp Siemens electric motor in a 27" tri hull fiberglass work boat. I use the boat for dock construction in Montana. Any thoughts on prop selection with the different powerband of an electric motor? I often load the boat with a bunk of lumber and lots of tools maybe 6-8 thousand pounds. The old Mercruiser 165 straight six did a decent job of planing up and going a couple of miles to work, but the Montana temperatures killed it a few times.
With practically all the torque of electric available at all RPM you can get away with a more aggressive prop than you’d think.
I live at high altitude, I have no idea what the difference is between the props you use at sea level vs 8000ft ish.
i bought a used 20hp mercury 4 stroke Crestliner aluminum bass boat for local lake that has 20 hp limit this model did not have all the gauges like speed fuel and rpm but they do make same boat and model with gauges is there an easy way to add a tachometer or speedometer to the boat i tried small electronic tach and it sucked it was not accurate and said to calibrate it with another tachometer
Yeah, without adding the harness and a tach, that's the best way, otherwise you have to jerry rig something to pull tach info from the harness on the engine :/
I've been pretty happy with the 13x19k Yamaha OEM prop on my 130 Saltwater series half cab. Boat will reach 73km/h (perhaps a smidge more with trimming it up more) and sits at around 5700rpm.
I'm sure if I fiddled around I could get a better prop for hole-shot or top speed, sacrificing one or the other. I do like both the current acceleration and top speed, so I'm unwilling to really sacrifice either unless I could find a prop that gives gains in both.
More terrific info! Have you ever tested composite props? I have an SS and back up aluminum for mine( both 3 blade), but have considered getting a composite 4 blade to see if it makes a difference...
I have a 23’ Grady white with a 200hp
What prop would you recommend for a heavier boat
You can’t be serious…
different lower units have different gear ratios which is going to have a major play in what prop works best for your setup. Nearly impossible to suggest anything that would be a worthwhile upgrade for you based on the parameters you’ve given. Hell you didn’t say what prop you’re running now and what performance aspects you’re seeing out of it.
So I recommend you talk to your boat shop and see what they say. Or really get some performance stats of your current prop and see what you’d like to change about it. and then start shopping for new props from there based on what you want to change. Some of it is trial and error.
Dude the hospital clip caught me off guard… shit was HILARIOUS 🤣🤣🤣
Lol ;)
Very interesting and well explained but you touch on why there are holes built into the propeller.
As a boat owner I subscribe to the motto - B.ust O.ut A.nother T.housand and I am never disappointed.
You can also be wasting money by using a worn out stainless propellor or getting one with more cupping
Its not all about going fast. If you are fishing alot and not one of those guys that run 70 mph to get to a fishing hole, then your not needing all that pitch. You will be coming out of the hole more frequently. If you transport several fishermen or a family on board, all that speed is wasted. that is unless you are reckless & crazy.
What can I do to get my trim to work again
Fix it.
Hi, I was wondering if there was any good or bad years of the yamaha 115-130hp 2 stroke outboards?
Thoughts on the Sharrow propellers? Other than the ridiculous price.
Hi, it's Rose! I'm helping Aaron with comments. What an excellent topic! It's getting featured on our podcast soon. Haven't checked it out? Subscribe now: www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
@@BornAgainBoating I am also interested in the Sharrow Props too. Maybe test them on a Boston Whaler Outrage or Ventura 210 9 Its a heavy 21 3300 lbs /5000lbs loaded.
Boat sits high so performance should be easy to monitor. IMHO
I got an outrage 250 I didn't seem like I was getting good RPM last season on twin verados I got to see you again this season. Supposed to be 6,000 6,400 rpm as full throttle and I don't think I was getting that high. But I do keep the boat full of fuel due to the garbage ethanol that we have to buy here in New York @danconn2065
Excellent overview and details. Love the PETA sticker!
Thank you
Sir my name is Ivan Viera. I have a question. I have this mobile mechanic come by my house so he can check my boat . I have a 2 stroke Yamaha 150 TXRZ. He throttled my engine real high and bring it down. Do you think my engine would it suffer because of this action . Please let me know. 4:46
Hello there! Rose speaking, and I'm thankful for your comment! Unfortunately, I can't provide the answer you're seeking right now. We believe it's best to discuss these specific types of questions one-on-one. That's why we've launched a channel membership for weekly live discussions. If you're interested, simply click the "Join" button next to our channel name. Much appreciated & have a great day!
Great video very good explanation 👏
Thanks
Excellent lesson on Props! Thank you. Ihave a Boston Whaler venura 210( 3300lbs) dual console w a Optimax 200HP DFI. I have a 15/15p Stainless. I have decent performance but cannot find the factory recommended Prop for this boat and motor?
Heavy boat and I am thinking about an aluminum 4 blade for sk/wake use( Faster hole shot?)
any experience or thoughts?
Hi, This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, this is a great question and I'll put this on the list for featuring on the podcast! If you haven't already, check it out and subscribe! www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Love your videos, but the background music/beat is very annoying and distracting. It makes it very difficult for hearing impaired people (myself) to follow along.
Thanks for the great information.
Our apologizes
Get a Sharrow...got one...amazing
Can you please make a video about how to repair Anti-slip gelcoat? 😭
If it's molded, good luck, that is insanely hard and I can't do that but some can, if it's just sand on nonskid, you just shake it on when you roll the gel coat :)
First off l, been watching your videos for a while now and found them super helpful after having purchased an old mako 20 with an 97’ evinrude 200. I have managed to service or repair a lot of components on the motor that have saved me lots of cash and given me experience and time on the water. Thank you. That said my tachometer has never worked and the one that was on the boat when I bought it actually caught fire so I replaced but have never got readings that made sense. Do you have a video I can reference to try and figure out the problem with my tach. My tach jump around like crazy when I start the motor. Once I get going it either reads 0 or on occasion it will read between 1000-2000 regardless where the throttle is. Any help would be appreciated.
Hi! Rose here, appreciate your comment! Sadly, I can't provide the exact answer you're looking for. We prefer to tackle these types of questions on a personal level. We have a channel membership offering weekly live discussions for such queries. If you're intrigued, simply press the "Join" button next to our channel name. Thank you for considering!
I run a 90 degree rake at 9900 rpm’s, sounds bad ass,, but it won’t go anywhere………
That mercury prop tool is a bit crappy tbh
I am definitely not an expert, this guy knows his stuff, but as rule of thumb, and I boat about 250 hours a year average, I listen to the engine, I try to find where she is purring like a kitten. Peace
What are your thoughts on the Scharo props?
Hi, This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, this is a great topic and I'll put this on the list for featuring on the podcast! If you haven't already, check it out and subscribe! www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
If it is a boat, it is gonna cost you, right or wrong.
Very informative GOAT of Boats lol 🤓
Thank you
I think I will just have three different props and see what runs fast. And what moves my boat in the lake and what keeps my boat up river.??? To many tree guy . To much tec for my brain lol. 😮
i have been running my 18ft zodiac with 90hp offshore, trim up or not, plane or not, there are no differences aside from handling. (too much bow up makes the speed lower too) could it be the boat itself is already so light i get planed regardless anyway?
Inflatables need very little trim to plane out.
@@danconn2065 “very little”, feels like almost no trim needed.
Good explanation
So in summary. Just buy the right suggested by motor mfg
what movie is that from I was dying LOL
The images and videos in this is hilarious dying through out the video lol
LMAO at 2:10
Wow, totally confusing...
I just want to go fishing....... dad!
😂Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤
Wow, my brain is bleeding
Lol :)
You guys should try ceramic coating the non gripping surfaces of the prop. This would be most efficient, The gripping surfaces, open faces rear of the boat, they should be scuffed probably with a fine 3m pad, not polished, because the props supposedly grip. I think they would work better scuffed, because how would something super slippery propel itself through water, but like fish, it could be slippery yet, they shove large volumes of water around, with least effort.
So maybe a fully ceramic coated prop would help.
I will test it myself, I know the hull benefits 5 or so percent or more with having less water resistance.
Interesting observation. Makes sense. Of course we’d like to hear about your results. Inviting technologies from other industries can’t hurt.
@@fernandofolgueira5191 I wouldnt call it technology, like top secret super special super advanced material, I would look at it more like a very well engineered wax product, except its formulated to harden and cure, interlock and last for a very long time, not breaking down with uv or oxidation.
Really the stuff is just high purity silicone oil, with a hardening agent for the silicone, a dissolved porous rock like material, and acids and solvents to keep the stuff in suspension and applicable.
Some contain flourine solvents which is just stupid formulation and not safe, blatantly because some manufactueres get off to selling harmful products.
The correct prop is the one that gets you home.
Who else failed this lesson???!? 😂
You know if you would just talk faster you could get more content in. I have to put you on slow mode just to process it all, LOL . Thanks for your knowledge.
Sorry about that😉
I always say, “If you have to worry about fuel costs, you shouldn’t own a boat.”
I say the exact opposite..
I’d like to see you clean up your video some more your video too many pictures. I like to see you just talk. Your tone of voice needs to change. You sound like you’re trying to make us understand rather just talking lower your tone, some more you’re trying too hard what it sounds like to get your point across
did he say saving $20? lol man if 20 makes or breaks you, you shouldn't on a boat
saving $20 over a distance of 50 miles is significant. And its not just about saving a few dollars. increasing fuel economy is safer because you can run longer or go further on the same amount of gas. Your rule of thirds increases